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Plumbing Rough In - John's House Episode 5
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- Опубліковано 9 кві 2021
- Mark takes us through the plumbing rough-in for John's House. We see the beginnings of a radon mitigation system.
A big thanks to Mark and the team from Johnson Plumbing for showing us the process!
Other videos in this series:
1. • Forming Concrete Footi...
2. • Footings and Block Fou...
3. • Framing - John's House...
4. • Radiant Heat in Garage...
5. • Soil Gas Mat - John's ...
6. • Progress Update - John...
If the radon test had come back high (it was below 1 pCi/L), we would have activated John's passive radon mitigation system by adding a radon fan in the attic. Check out this video to see what's involved. • How To Activate a Pass...
Other Resources:
Get an estimate within an hour of the Twin Cities, MN - americanradonmitigation.com/f...
Consulting - americanradonmitigation.com/p...
Tool Kit Rental - americanradonmitigation.com/p...
EcoQube Radon Monitor - americanradonmitigation.com/p...
Music: Happiness from www.bensound.com
Other videos in this series:
Forming Concrete Footings - ua-cam.com/video/UP3scCbdBQU/v-deo.htmlsi=kWaxZO9wIyAn9jlv
Footings and Block Foundation - ua-cam.com/video/ZR46xPbNEiI/v-deo.htmlsi=A-JsE2qcx9_4M6Ko
Framing -ua-cam.com/video/wqWcpdSs594/v-deo.htmlsi=jhkEToaP6GSmXwnQ
Radiant Heat - ua-cam.com/video/chzl1Rt171c/v-deo.htmlsi=dQ6MekKXVo0WG4HO
Soil Gas Mat - ua-cam.com/video/fMNzVpbfthE/v-deo.htmlsi=mqi0hfpQCBXp9KRR
Progress Update - ua-cam.com/video/zympPubsILI/v-deo.htmlsi=WAxKJDidw9sdHF9U
If the radon test had come back high (it was below 1 pCi/L), we would have activated John's passive radon mitigation system by adding a radon fan in the attic. Check out this video to see what's involved. ua-cam.com/video/yY0G7TIUZIY/v-deo.htmlsi=5sl3mFFN_Cpm7jN1
Other resources:
Get an estimate within an hour of the Twin Cities, MN - americanradonmitigation.com/free-estimates/
Consulting - americanradonmitigation.com/product/consulting/
Tool Kit Rental - americanradonmitigation.com/product/radon-tool-kit-rental/
EcoQube Radon Monitor - americanradonmitigation.com/product/ecoqube/
Once I watched him go and nail the 2x6 on top of the wall top plate I said I must watch the rest this kid knows right what he is doing!
Yes, I am amazed at how fast he works. I can tell he's been doing it for a while.
The fittings push apart because the hub of the fittings are tappered meaning the further in the pipe goes into the fittings the tighter the fittings get and that’s why you have to hold it until the glue and primer set up
Mystery solved! Thank you, Isaiah!
I like Phil Rokus' explanation too. Check it out here. ua-cam.com/video/FtOxO_eJBBo/v-deo.html
Quantum physics!! I love it hahaha
Yeah, Phil and the Essential Craftsman channel are great! I've learned so much from them.
I have as well you will never stop learning in any type of trade I am a licensed plumber in texas and every day I learn as if I was a apprentice can’t let my helper know that though haha
Haha! I completely agree. Do you have any feedback or suggestions on things you've seen us do that we could do better or more efficiently?
10:11 b/c the chemical reaction in the solvent cement that is “chemically welding/joining/bonding/melting” the 2 piles together is an exothermic reaction…..meaning it’s giving off some heat (very low amount) and it’s causing it to push back against each other, fighting….if you will while the 2 piles become one, which happens in matter of seconds; but will fully “cure” in few hrs. After few seconds, it’s “settled down” and the reaction still takes place but the push back is done.
Good guess on pipe separation. At least that’s what I was always told is that it was thermal expansion that pushed fittings off. I thought it was interesting he used a long sweep for the lav drain. I’m not saying it’s wrong because it is technically code. I’ve always put short 90s on sink and lav trap arms. The main reason I do this is so that I only have pipe going through the drywall. The escutcheon fits better and everything looks nicer. If you use a sweep you have the hub and sometimes part of the bend coming out of the wall. As for how it drains, the reason you can’t use regular 90s or tees is because it’s a change of direction and a short fitting stops the waste before it turns so it slows it down. If you use a long sweep (effectively two 45s) or combo, you’re not stopping the flow as it changes direction. When the short 90 is on the trap arm, the waste is just coming out of the trap and traveling a few inches. So it doesn’t have any momentum to slow down anyway. I’ve never had an inspector say anything about this.
You are a very good teacher
Im a journeyman in Kentucky no wet vents are allowed on any fixture nice looking job also we don't use purple primer
My brother in law remodeled his whole home and when the GCs did the bathroom they had to redo shower drain as forgot to connect to DWV to house (slab on grade and was already filled with cement and tiled, DOH), then, after redid that and hooked everything up, they realized THEY DIDNT TIE INTO ORIGINAL VENTING🤦🏼🤦🏼, so, they had to add AAVs (which personally, not a fan) and called it good. Week later, bathroom sink underneath flooded bathroom, DOH, as they didn’t cement any fittings in, AND, overflow now hooked up AND the tailpiece wasn’t lining up and forced into p-trap (we talking 4 inches OFF!) and was putting pressure on other piles and without glue, it broke out, 🤦🏼
Can ya guess who the plumber was…..😉
2 days just for pvc we do 3 houses in one day
We'd love your feedback on our work!
Lol was thinking the same thing. These guys must be hourly.
They must be small 1 story houses. There's no way you're doing 3 big million dollar custom houses in one day.
Your callbacks are high
what brand of hole saw is the best and do you use seft feed bit some time?
I like the Milwaukee Carbide Hole Dozer hole saws. They can be hard to find, though.
Here's a link to a set on Amazon. amzn.to/3t34zNs
I have been plumbing for 40 years and have never seen anyone insulate the vent pipe, ever.
It's required here in Minnesota that the passive radon vent pipe be insulated in the attic. See section 501.9 of the standard. standards.aarst.org/CCAH-2020-0523/15/index.html#zoom=z
Nice vid, and a tip for anyone dealing w/ purple primer (pro or DIYer).
1:01 & 9:23 ¹ see that purple pain in the butt primer in this shot; taped to the solvent cement, like everyone does….
This fine for a rough in job, but for all that’s holy; if on a finished job inside someone’s house (regardless if they have $20 dollar fixtures/appliances/etc….. to a million dollar bathtub, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, cover your work surfaces with a good heavy duty no leak canvas drop cloth when using purple primer (or just use clear cleaner if code allows in jurisdiction), b/c the worst thing that can do is get that primer inside a tub (which Halle Ed to my parents new jet tub 🤦🏼, and my sister’s new free standing soaker tub 🤦🏼 . And the soaker was $8500 🤦🏼) or countertop, floor, etc… BECAUSE THAT STUFF DONT COME OFF😉
cheers✌🏻
¹ edited to add time stamp
Good tip, that stuff is messy!
@@AmericanRadonMitigation yeah, and even the carpenter protector sticky stuff would work and I what I use for protecting tubs etc…, as ppl love toeing tools inside the tubs 🤦🏼, or using subountertops and countertops as work benches….again 🤦🏼; but if using carpet protector, gotta be careful as some materials dont work well and will “delaminate” the materials when start peeling off to remove, especially Happens on laminated cabinets (edge banding can pull up) and the stuff from IKEA is horrid when used w/ sticky carpet protector to protect say a ikea vanity or kitchen sink as that can remove the “paint & wood finish” if rip off w/o treating like newborn baby. Even then, I’ll test small spot and if materials that “touchy” will use canvas or plastic as not paying for replacements…which would need to.
Cheers and thx for reply😃
why did you insulate a radon vent????
According to the standard, insulation is required if the piping is subject to freezing temperatures and the formation of condensation.
See section 500.1 Insulation Required standards.aarst.org/RRNC-2020/16/index.html
I had a plumbing contractor im a contractor charge 3500 for 6 hours of work 40 foot of main two tie ins bathroom was separate another 3500
Why do you insulate the stack
According to 1303.2402. Vent pipes routed through unconditioned spaces shall be insulated with a minimum of R-4 insulation. Here's the link if you'd like more information. www.revisor.mn.gov/rules/1303.2402/
@@AmericanRadonMitigation thanks
It would be helpful if the camera was actually pointed at the plumbing work.
That's my bad. Sorry to disappoint, Richard.
please check out our videos!
I am 1 in a crew of three. We get 5 bath houses done in 2 days. The 5th bath is typically an ejector pit with a 3 piece groundworks.
You want a award? Lol
It’s called interference fit why it pushes apart
minnesota requires your lettering on the pipe to be shown? wtf? lol
We always hide the lettering so it looks cleaner. However, I'm not a plumber.
Please check out our page as well, we'd love to work with you some day!
You're a long way from Minnesota, my friend!
why are you using pvc pipe . is it because it's cheap or you guys are cheap?
Why are the plumbers using PVC for the radon vent pipe or why are they using it for the drain, waste, and vent pipe?
@@AmericanRadonMitigation I'm in canada that sheits garbage we only use it in the underslab. too noisy in the walls
That’s interesting. Do you use cast iron? PVC pipe is in most homes here in Minnesota built in the last 40 or so years.
@@AmericanRadonMitigation ABS and cast iron
sometimes system 15 but never PVC
This guy is a hack!!
Can I ask what makes you say that?
@@AmericanRadonMitigation Kidding me I enjoyed watching someone who knows wtf they are doing. TL
hole saw right through the support cutting half of it off..Stopped watching as soon as I seen this..
I’m no expert. However, when running a 3-inch pipe with an outside diameter of 3.5 inches through a 2x4 wall, you will always end up sacrificing the top plate. I believe that's why Mark attached the 2x6 to the top plate. Ideally, it would run through a 2x6 wall so the piping does not touch the drywall, though. This also prevents the wall from turning into a base drum when you activate a passive radon system by adding a radon fan in the attic.
Is there some new PVC where you don't have to hold it for like 10 seconds? I always have the problem with a Hydraulics out on me after I put it in the fitting. And I don't know what you're doing running the job and drilling I never saw those two go hand in hand before
I always have to hold the fitting and pipe for what seems like forever to prevent them from coming apart. On close inspection, it doesn't look like his are pushing apart, though. I wonder if Mark is using fast-setting cement.