How to Wire a Keyless Push Button Start System (EASIEST Tutorial on YouTube!)
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- Welcome to Part 2 of our ultimate vehicle wiring tutorial series, where we make wiring your classic car or truck EASY and stress-free! In this video, we’re taking things up a notch and showing you how to wire up an ignition switch and brake switch, plus we’ll walk you through installing the incredible Digital Guard Dawg Push Button Start System-a simple and modern upgrade for your classic vehicle.
What’s covered in this video:
How to wire an ignition switch and brake switch in your classic car or truck
Step-by-step guide on installing a push button start system in your vehicle, with tips on wiring and setup
Why upgrading to a push button start is a game-changer for your classic car restoration or custom build
A detailed walkthrough of the Digital Guard Dawg Push Button Start system, and why it’s the best choice for modernizing your ride
Simple troubleshooting tips to ensure everything works smoothly during your install
Why choose the Digital Guard Dawg Push Button Start System?
The PBS-II is more than just about keyless start convenience; it’s a system built to deliver robust, reliable performance for classic cars, hot rods, and muscle cars that demand more than just basic functionality:
•Comprehensive Ignition Functionality: Choose between ACC, ACC + IGN, or START modes-all from a single, easy-to-use push-button ignition switch.
•Heavy-Duty Build: Designed with 12-gauge bus-insulated wiring and onboard 60A high-current relays mounted on a durable 4oz copper chassis, this system is engineered for flawless performance even under the toughest conditions.
•Easy Integration: The PBS-II seamlessly integrates with your vehicle’s existing wiring while eliminating the clutter of unsightly external relays, keeping your setup clean and professional.
Key Features That Set It Apart
•Onboard 60A Relays: Eliminates the need for failure-prone external relay wiring, ensuring a clean, reliable installation.
•Dual Mode RFID Transmitters: Offers both manual and automatic operation for maximum flexibility.
•Emergency Bypass Card: Ensures you’re never stranded, even if your RFID key fob is lost or misplaced.
•Internal MSD Filtering Circuitry: Protects your system from electrical interference, ensuring flawless operation under extreme conditions.
•Selectable Aux Outputs: Control power locks, windows, or trunk release with ease, all from the same system.
•Multi-Vehicle Compatibility: Program a single key fob to operate an unlimited number of vehicles-perfect for collectors or multi-vehicle owners.
•Proudly Made in the USA: Precision-engineered to meet the highest automotive standards, ensuring top-tier quality and reliability.
If you’ve been following our series, you’ve already learned the basics of wiring your classic vehicle. In this video, we show you how to take your build to the next level with a push button start and digital ignition system. Whether you’re restoring a muscle car, building a custom truck, or just want to upgrade your classic car’s electrical system, this tutorial makes it simple.
Stay tuned for more videos in this series where we dive deeper into wiring advanced circuits like lights, power locks, and more! Subscribe and hit the bell to catch Part 3 and other helpful wiring tutorials!
PARTS USED:
•DIGITAL GUARD DAWG - PBS II push button start system:
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•SPEEDWAY MOTORS 22-Circuit Universal Automotive Aftermarket Wiring Harness Kit
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•DIGITAL GUARD DAWG - PBS II push button start system:
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Great looking system that appears to be of good American quality for a reasonable cost. Thanks for sharing the product and for showing an actual install.
You’re welcome, and thanks for watching!
Another awesome wiring video. Thanks for showing the LS ignition stuff, still looking forward to how the LS integrates with the gauges.
Also, that key fob looks just like my wife's last Honda Pilot key fob. If it's Honda overstock then it's going to last a long time. We used the same key for nearly 7 years and still worked great when we finally traded the car in last month. 😎
Thanks so much! You know, since you mentioned it, I looked it up and I think you’re right… I think its basically the 2016-2021 pilot/passenger fob.
Excellent! That's a relief. Great video by the way. I love how you make this wiring thing into a simple process.
@@roym.9875 thanks so much man, thats the goal… I hope people really grasp it all with ease.
great job man, you knock this out the ballpark!
Thanks man. I appreciate the kind words
Another great video. I have a long term project in the shop that I have this system for. People are scared of the voodoo of wiring. You are doing a great job of explaining how easy it really is. At the end of the day, it is just a bunch of circles and I’m not trying to brag, but I am pretty good at going in circles! 😂
Hahaha that’s one way to look at it! Thanks so much, I really hope it helps people
Maaan! Thats a great help. I have that exact unit and was reading thru the instructions for thee 2nd time last nite!!🦍🦍🦍
Ah man! Piece of cake…. You got this!! Let me know if you need help
OH YEAH!!! Awesome content. This exactly what I needed to see. Thanks for posting.
Thank you!
Awesome job, enjoy watching your progress truck is going to be amazing when you get done
Thanks so much man, I appreciate it. Cant wait!
I didn't know I could add this. Thats so rad! going to check out Digital Guard Dawg. Thanks!
They are awesome. Please use my link: digital-guard-dawg.myshopify.com/?ref=INTHESHOPTV
And dont forget the 20% off!! INTHESHOPTV20
Love these videos!
Thank you!!
Great video, Mike. You can tell everyone is confused by wiring just by looking at the number of views your wire videos have already. I'll be putting the same push button in the Apache 👍
@@N8z14 thanks brother. Im just hoping it helps all those people! Use my link and code when you’re ready - it’s a pretty sizable savings!
I’ve been waiting on this second video as soon as I watched the first one. Great content and I have watched every video that I could find regarding the speedway motors harness and by far you explanations and instructions are the best I’ve seen. Looking forward to the rest of the videos in this series. 👏
I appreciate that so much man. Huge thanks - I hope these videos are a difference maker for people
Love that I found your channel in the last few months. I’m in the process of redoing a 49 3100. I’ve been using your videos as a guide. It’s my first time doing this and has been super helpful.
@@Andrew-rq4unMan that’s so awesome to hear! Thanks for that, good luck on your truck, and thanks for watching.
@@intheshoptv Thank you. I have a gen 2 LT1, but I think will be similar wiring as the LS. Definitely will be buying the push button start👍🏼
@@Andrew-rq4un yeah its pretty basic. Please use my link when you’re ready. Helps me a tiny bit but saves you quite a bit!
@@intheshoptv 💯
Just ordered the push button kit, your code saved me $130! Thanks man
Nice video, Mike, but! You had me until 3 hits on the button to make it do its thing. It just reminds me of a cheap torch where you have to cycle through the chip to turn it off. I'll still go into there web site for look. Thanks for showing us this company
No, you don’t have to tap it 3 times. If you touch the brake, it’ll start on the first tap. I was just illustrating accessing the accessories.
Great videos
@@jasongibbs7588 Thank you!
If you are using a one wire alternator, you most definitely need to run an idiot light or a resistor in line on the signal wire that goes to the regulator. It can still work and function without seeing a resistance on this wire for awhile, but you WILL certainly risk burning up your voltage regulator in the alternator. It needs to see a difference in voltage so the regulator doesn’t get overdriven…if its a 2 wire alternator, there is a wire specifically dedicated to the pwm control. It essentially serves the same purpose.
As far as I know, all Gen IV alternators have internal regulators that are controlled by a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signal from the ECM. They also rely on GBCM (Generator Battery Control Module) and BCM (Body Control Module) input to function correctly. Without the BCM and GBCM, the alternator will default to 100% duty cycle which is 13.8 volts at all times regardless of electrical load or battery discharge level. Also, the ECM will throw DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) if it doesn't recieve the input form the BCM. Even if one were to wire in the additional modules, there is no wire that will activate the "idiot" light in a stock tri-five dash.
As Im set up now - I run the Gen IV alternator connected to the ECM with factory wiring, but will not get an idiot light in the gauge cluster and my regulator won't really… “regulate”. Alternator output will be 13.8 volts, period. However, I plan to run an external voltage regulator.
Man I done bought the wiring harness and this keyless starter watching your dang videos lol what we doing next
@@smiley6179 LOTS more lol
I used your code to buy The keyless start Hope that helps@@intheshoptv
Amazing video and you deserve way more views! Since im doing an ls swap on my 68 mustang Besides the purple wire going to the starter. The only wires from the speed way harness going to the engine bay are the wires for the lights right? The alternator wires are apart of the ls standalone harness? Apologies if this has already been answered.
@@mathewmorrison4907 Thats correct. I have some other videos that touch more ok the LS charging system if you’re interested
@ great! Thank you for responding. And I definitely am interested. Are they future videos or already on your channel?
@@mathewmorrison4907 already uploaded! Yeah with an LS the engine bay bundle of the harness will most likely be all lights, horn, wipers, and maybe electric fans depending upon your LS & LS harness.
Great I will check out your other videos as well I really appreciate you answering my questions. Can’t wait for the next video!
Hello, Great video. My name is Brian, I have a restomod that I installed a guard-dawg II. My engine is a LQ9 with a 2000 Camaro ECU. The car is tuned with HP Tuners. My question is about using the delay option to keep the fans running after the engine is turned off. Currently when I press the clutch and the Start/Stop button to turn off the engine the ECU does not use the delay option and the fans turn off immediately. How do I keep the power on to the ECU so that the fans will stay on for the delay time. Also the fans will not come back on if I try to get the Guard dawg back into accessory mode. I have to restart the engine and that defeats the purpose of the delay option. I called support, but they could not help me. Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks Brian! That should be independent of the digital guard dawg system. The ECM still gets a 12v constant and ground via its harness and all fan programming is done inside the ECM.
I wonder if they get their fobs from Honda, or if they both get then from they same manufacturer
@@Wicked_skyboi you know what, someone else mentioned the same thing a few comments down and when I looked it up - it looks to be based (or is exactly the same) on the 2016-2022 Honda Pilot/passenger key fob. Ive heard they are good fobs so perhaps thats why Digital Guard Dawg went with them…
I'm wondering if this system will work with my floor stump starter I have for my 46 and my 49 Chevy truck.
I dont see why not. 12v constant, 12v switched, starter, ground, and any accessories you want switched is all you need, plus Id recommend a positive off your brake switch for safety
@@intheshoptv I got a hold of Digital GuardDawg and they said it shouldn't be an issue. They sent me the wiring for their switch. Can't wait to get this installed.
That key fob looks like the exact same key fob I have for a 2017 Honda fit😂
@@dannyinator6603 yes! A bunch of people pointed out that they are based on the Honda Pilot/Passenger, and that they are good reliable fobs.
Tell me you're not using copper lines for your brake system!?!?
@@roym.9875 every video that shows those lines gets the same question in the comment section lol. No, the front are copper plated steel lines for corrosion resistance. The frame and rear section are NiCopp.
Every video you say “I like budget” but proceed to show an outrageously overpriced product. Smh
@@911airsoftdude EVERY video I feature an expensive product??? You sure you’re commenting on the right channel? like the episode when I painted my frame with a mix of Rustoleum and appliance paint, or the episode where I used the lowest priced mustang 2 IFS, or the episode where I hacked together my 4 link, or the episode just recently where my steering column was a $50 swap meet ebay find, or the episode where my entire rear came out of a junkyard for $200 and I didn’t even rebuild it, or the episode with the cheap Amazon intake I installed, or the battery relocation series episode’s with all the wire coming from Amazon, or the cheap Amazon starter, or the episode using thinner cheap sound deadener from Amazon, or the several episodes where I primed and PAINTED my beloved project with Summit paint? Or the most recent video featuring $16 horns off Amazon, or the video before that that features a cheap budget plasma cutter that Im giving away for FREE???? Should I keep going? Maybe I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt - did you maybe mean to respond to a different channel and responded to me by accident? Im CONSTANTLY budget minded throughout this project (including the damn wiring harness IN this video)… but I very clearly stated that ignition is NOT one of those times where I want to be cheap.