In 1973 I put together an Archer kit AM radio in electronics class in 10th grade. That was a nice radio, transformer less design so it had really good fidelity for what it was. Wish I still had it. As a class project we built a Tesla coil. Many students took turns winding the secondary winding on to a broom stick, the capacitor was aluminum foil and sheets of plate glass. I hope schools are still teaching the trades, now it seems everyone wants their children to go to college and the trades are looked down upon. That is a loss for all of us in society. Wood shop, metal shop, auto shop, electronics shop, learn a trade people.
I have the exact same clock I got off eBay. I have a few nixie tube clocks but wanted one of those panaplex clocks. The clock worked but some of the digits flickered. First thing I did was change those caps. Then I researched and found 3 new panaplex displays and it looks awesome now. I have a couple more displays in case I need them. The manual came with it and the original builder did a good job as each step he had a check mark next to after that step was completed. Looking back, that was a complicated clock, tons of resistors in that one. But it's been counting away for the last 10 months or so that I've had it. Mine was wired as a 24-hour clock.
Many HAMs wired as 24 hour. I might rewire the alarm switch for 12/24 hour as I will never use the alarm. I have this panaplex, 2 nixie tube clocks I built, 3 LED clocks, 3 VFD clocks, 1 numitron, and 2 X-Y clock modules for display on a scope. Numitron is neat because they use incandescent filaments. I usually keep it on the dimmest setting so the filaments will last a long, long time.
My dad has this model. One of the numbers faded and got faulty. Apparently it is impossible to get a replacement of these segments as they are not manufactured anymore.
Perhaps in USA but in Canada it was over 100. Again i didn't buy it. Got it for my birthday and it was probably 76 when I got mine as i was in Jr high school. The blue VFD clock came out right after and i always wished I had that one. Now of course panaplex is cooler.
I would blame the socket for the problem. Yes it's gold plated but i've seen them still play up. Good old mostek, i imagine it could be replaced by an atmel micro and mosfet outputs to drive the displays. But it would not be the same :-(
Find another gold plated contact and break off a small piece then slip it into the socket next to the chip pin. That should give enough pressure on the pin to correct the situation. You can solder the piece to the socket if you want to make it permanent. You might want to check the “Hold” button.
Nice those old clocks, today i repaired my technics sl-p350 cd player that was skipping random, with looking at your vids i was shure i had to change te spindel motor, and yes that was the culpritt 😃👍
Ya I know. I did one on mine before. I wish i still had the original one that i made when I was a kid because I would have fixed it but when it broke after a few years panaplex displays weeny cool. After all these where everywhere. Gas pumps. Cash registers. The new kid on the block was VFD with the blue green display that could be made blue or green. So I put it in my closet and totally forgot about it. Few years later I moved out and left it behind and my dad when he was cleaning up just took everything I left and tossed it out. I had a nice all tube color TV that worked tube sets weren't cool so that went to the dump and my old original VHS went to the dump and probably other things that I wish hadn't been tossed out. Wasn't even given the option to come and get it one day it was just gone. I had moved in with my girlfriend and wasn't thinking about the old crap plus at that time I was working in the repair business so broken electronics was just things I wasn't thinking about keeping because I saw so many things that were heading to the dump everyday. But I found this clock which works great looks great and completes my oddball display collection. I have Nixie, vfd, numitron, led, panaplex, and mechanical 7 segment, mechanical pin and flip clocks. I have vintage battery mechanical spring winding clocks and a and a vintage transistor electromechabical balance wheel clock from the mid 60s. That one keeps as good time as any quartz clock but uses a Ballance wheel with a magnet on it that magnet is used to trigger the coil that kicks it with a pulse to keep it running. It is probably the coolest battery powered clock I own. I also have 2 grandfather clocks one of them being a rare limited edition. I have number 21 or only 250 ever made. The thing is a monster well over 8 feet tall so it won't fit in rooms with an 8 foot ceiling.
I know those dip sockets were problematic in the old Commodore 64 computers. A person could get one working by rocking and reseating the IC's as they develop oxidation.
Acid solder paste on electronics? First you did not read the manual before starting, second Heathkits were supplied with 60/40 rosin core solder which you should have used, third, Science Teacher? I built about six if these clocks for myself and other people. I still have the first one that is working fine. I also have the GC-1092 A alarm clock as well.
I had this teacher we used to call him Mr bonehead behind his back who was I know it all and you did things his way or he would throw you out of his shop class. I had this goof for both drafting and electronics. He failed me on drafting because one of my lines was not absolutely straight with the graph paper and at one end of my line that I drew I was out by about a half a millimeter and I failed for that. For the electronic side of things he insisted solder paste must be used. I did have the solder that came with the kit but assembling it in class in order to get a pass required doing it his way and unfortunately it ruined my kit. That would have been about 44 years ago I doubt Mr bonehead is still living because he was old at the time. If he is still alive he'd be over 100 by now.
"Solder paste"may have been a misnomer. Considering the time period, it was probably the standard, highly corrosive, acidic flux for copper plumbing pipe, which has a sort of paste like consistency. (The brand of plumbing flux I learned to use as a kid doing piping repairs every spring to our seashore cottage in the 1970s was called "No-Korode" ! It was Ok for pipes but NOT for electronics). Today, "solder paste" is completely different and has powdered solder mixed in with the electronics-safe flux, and is designed specifically for working with microprocessors, ball and grid components, SMD's and so on. There's also modern paste flux for electronics use, probably intended primarily for lead-free solder, and therefore likely to contain organic acids ---- be extremely careful not to inhale the fumes, which you definitely will not like, as they're more acrid than rosin, and be sure to remove that rosin residue from from the circuit boards Because it is both corrosive and conductive. I still have an ancient plastic container of Kester rosin flux in paste form, it looks like dark brown Vaseline, with similar consistency and smells exactly like pine trees when you heat it. Unless you're using leadfree solder, better to use a standard rosin flux.
@@goodun2974 It was. Highly corrosive that is. I probably could have fixed the clock as it just started losing segments, but it was put in a cupboard above the closet in my bedroom, and when I moved out I just left whatever was in there. Years later my parents were cleaning out the house and everything that was abandoned was tossed.
Could you tell me what is the brand of your shooting camera ? Brand and model# ? I use a small Canon SD1400 IS for my UA-cam videos and having a hardtime to get a 'non grainy' picture while shooting in my house basement.. even with strong lights.. (??) Your lighthings look to be standard fluorescent types ??
I am using a Sony FDR ax53 or ax33. They are almost identical. The 33 is older. Both 4k cameras but i usually run in 1080p 60frame. Lighting is fluorescent and LED overhead and I do run very high light levels in the studio. I have a television production background and was taught to use insane light levels. Over the bench 6 10 watt LED lights, 2 40 watt fluorescent plus a 65 and 42 watt behind me. Probably 200fc
@@12voltvids Ooohh. $1300.00USD camera. I was not expecting that.. I understand you shoot videos on a daily basis.. but could you suggest a good video/photo camera that would be around $800 or less ? Thank you for your help ! BTW if you watch some of my videos you'll notice the 'grainy' dark picture of some of my basement project.. not enough lighthing at all. I'm considering to build LED panels that would be tilted on demand & hinged on the ceiling.
@@jpdesroc the ax100 was more than 2 grand here in Canada and that isn't even the most expensive one i have. That honor goes to my hdr fx1 which was more like 6000 and records HD video onto tape! You get what you pay for. For me it is a business, i make a living doing this. You should see the tripod i use when i am doing work with the fdrax100. The tripod and head was 3000.00. Yes the tripod was more than the camera but man is it smooth. A little overkill it is left over from my Eng camera days.
Very nice clock. I'm a bit confused about your comment w.r.t. shipping. It sounds like the seller was in the USA and charged $10 for shipping in the USA. You had it shipped to a mailbox type business. Any shipping, handling, duties, customs fees after that would not be the sellers responsibility nor could they even guess at the cost. For example if you had it shipped from the mailbox business in the USA to you in Canada, because you could no go collect it in person, that shipping cost would not be related to the eBay transaction. I can see that very easily being $50 as you would have to pay the actual shipping cost and the fee the mailbox business charges. International shipping rate can jump drastically with the difference of an inch or ounce as well. I have had various mailbox businesses ship items purchased at small local auction houses (all in USA) and some of them are very reasonable in their pricing and some are quite high. Something that can surprise you, it has me in the past.
No on the ad it said shipping $10. But it was not shipping it was not $10 and it had nothing to do with me being in Canada because he would not ship to Canada at any cost it was USA shipping only but because the auction did not go to what he wanted it to sell for he ended up charging me $45 this is after the auction closed he ended up charging me $45 to ship it to a Us address so I had it sent to my US postal box and I drove down to the States and paid an extra I think it was $5 for them to receive the package and then drove it back myself so a $20 bid plus the $50 it cost me to get it delivered by the time I picked it up brought this to $70 us that's what I was getting at. There's no way in hell it cost him $45 to ship something from California to Washington. I know American shipping is ridiculously expensive you have the most expensive shipping charges in the world. I get equipment sent to me for repair through the mail and on average to ship a camcorder for example is over $100 to ship one from the States to Canada that's US dollars it cost me about 80 Canadian to ship that same camcorder back. I wanted to order some parts for my garage door opener from the manufacturer in the states cost to ship to Washington was $7 cost to ship to Canada 50 for $10 worth of parts. Unfortunately the manufacturer would not ship to my Us address because my credit card was not registered there so I ended up buying the parts at retail in Canada for less than it would have cost to have the part shipped from the US and that was just shipping because sure as shit FedEx would have added another 3750 and broke her charges on top of that when it arrived here.
This is a common practice of eBay sellers and it should not be permitted. I bid $10 on a Sony dat recorder a few years ago again having it shipped to another Us address and the auction didn't go any higher than the $10 bid after the auction closed the actual shipping charges ended up being $55.00. when I question the seller as to how come the shipping charges were so high when on the ad it said shipping from $10 and his answer was well had you bought it at the Buy it now price of $100 the shipping would have only been $10, again very misleading, eBay should require sellers to put the shipping cost in their online ad so bidders can decide before they bid whether they are prepared to pay that charger not because had I not completed the sale I would have had a black mark on me as a buyer. So sellers know this if you don't complete the transaction they give you negative feedback and then when you want to bet on something other sellers can cancel your bid. It's a moot point now because I don't buy or sell anything on eBay never again.
You have no obligation to pay shipping rates which were not stated up front. Report such a seller to eBay. Give then negative feedback, if they try to extort you with negative feedback you can contest it. I buy/sell almost daily and would not dream of not being clear about shipping nor would I put up with a dishonest seller. You can ask a seller about the product. shipping charges, etc. to get a feel for how they will be to deal with. I will often ask if they know how to box something for shipment so it will not be damaged. A good seller will be happy to answer this question because they know they do a good job.
What make and model is that watch of yours? Is it vintage or recent? Reminds us of something we drooled over as a little whelk, looking in the window of a neighborhood jewelry store we passed on the way to and from school...
Love your vids, but gotta correct you on a point. I own two GC-1005s (one of which I built in 1973 and has been ticking away for a half century, the other a working "spares queen" which I fixed up and runs next to it.) (I was able to source the three axial 'lyrics to proactively replace the 50 y.o. ones, which were actually not leaking (yet)) (So if anyone does get a GC-1005 from fleabay, strongly endorse your suggestion to replace those 2 caps, with 3 modern ones) I also have a couple of the "new Heatkit"'s ~6 y.o. GC-1006s, one ticking away, one unbuilt. "New Heathkit" is a contemporary corp that acquired the defunct Heathkit's I.P. The GC-1006 is in no way a replica of the GC-1005, not intended as one, nor could you possibly pass it off as a GC-1005. Its case is entirely different, in fact substantially smaller than the GC-1005. Alsodoesn't The GC-1006 is not a horrible clock and tries to bring back the original Heathkit kit-building experience. But it looks, and operates, entirely differently from the GC-1005. Thanks for the look inside your GC-1005!
Where did I ever say the 1006 was a replica of a 1005? It can't ever be a replica because the mostek chip is not available. I also have one I built with the National semiconductor chip and actually have it driving a huge display made up of bright white LED lighting strips. The display is built on a piece of lexan and some day I may even finish the project and put it in a wood frame with black glass. I haven't seen a 1006 but would imagine it is built using an atmega chip. Correct?
@@12voltvids : Again, I love your work, and look forward to your videos! However, I stand by my comments. To answer your question: My point was just to dispel for anyone considering a GC-1006, it's a totally different looking clock, both externally and of course internally. The only thing the two have in common is six 7-segment digits, slaved to line frequency, and they tell the time. in both I and most GC-1005 fans certainly do agree that:
(sorry, youtube chopped up my reply below. here's the full version): @12voltvids : Again, I love your work, and look forward to your videos! However, I stand by my comments. To answer your question: 28:00 : “…Heathkit is actually selling a new clock kit; it’s a replica, it looks just like this one.” 28:22 : “….it looks similar to this and you could possibly pass it off from a distance” My point was just to dispel for anyone considering a GC-1006, it's a totally different looking clock, both externally and of course internally. The only thing the two have in common is six 7-segment digits, slaved to line frequency, and they tell the time. I bought both the red and green variants of the GC-1006, and built the red one.. I actually swapped in pin-compatible orange LED displays as, being a Panaplex fan, they look better. But sadly not really like Panaplexes. I and most GC-1005 fans certainly do agree that: “…but it’s still not as cool as a Panaplex display” ! You're correct in that the GC-1006 is run by an atmel/Microchip ATTINY84-20PU, with unpublished firmware. Would love to see a video on your National (MM5316/NTE2060 from GC-1107 days?) clock running LED strips! Thanks again for all the great vids!
@@dtss_smudge Right but it is what is available now. There are many different kits out there but most are not 6 digit, and the vast majority are not line synchronized and use a crystal count down. Some are WiFi or GPS synchronized which they have to have this option because they are piss poor at keeping accurate time. I built a nixie tube clock (on my channel, it is the 6 digit clock from the UK) and it gains several minutes a month. I have tried off the shelf GPS modules but none of them communicate. I guess i will have to break down and buy theirs or keep reseting the time every week. Both nixie clocks and all 3 VFD clock kits keep lousy time. The ones that are accurate were the numitron and the fancy one with the LEDs around the ring and dot matrix display. (one of the pricier kits). Those 2 are very accurate because they use a dedicated RTC chip that is battery backed. You still can't beat line sync for accuracy though. Also the 1006 comes with a case where as most of the others do not.
The new "Heathkit" clock isn't a great design. It's just a mains-synchronized design with a really terrible battery backup circuit. See Franlab's review. I did enjoy building it though, the build instructions are pretty good.
Haha I have a bad keyboard. Some of the keys stick and usually i don't even check. That would have been the filename i saved the rendered file as. One time i had a frustrated as my computer was acting up and it gave me an error that the filename i wanted to use was already in use. So i name it something silly and forgot to change the time when i uploaded. Of course after I save the upload I can't change it till it is done and a few people saw the embarassing file name. This file name is still showing in windows explorer. I try to delete and I get an error that file doesn't exist. I try to name a new file with that name and windows complains that the filename is in use. Driving me bonkers trying to rid it. I guess i will have to break out the disk tools but i don't want to because it is a 2tb drive and I don't want to risk nuking all the files.
why not solder through the entire card properly with flux and then wash with alcohol. Washing the card clean is important. You should also change ic. socket
I don't want to put any stress on this ic. They are ceramic glass and can chip easily. Remember it is 48 years old. That is extremely d for a silicon chip. Think about that for a minute. 48 years and this has been running for a good majority of those 24/7.
I have two walkie talkies in the USA from 1997 that I'd love to have repaired if anyone knows any leads. They still turn on but the sound doesn't travel. All I get is static.
Open letter to John senchuk. What is your problem? You do realize that I am a contract partner to produce content for Google and i am paid to do so. Your little demand to terminate my account falls on deaf ears as do your complaints to my ISP. What are you about 12? You sure act like it.
@@mdavidhandler ha ha yes you are right. I am giving him the benefit of the doubt. I was chatting with Dave Jones at eevblog and he is reporting his videos too. He has problems I guess.
This guy is Awesome I've been watching his videos for years..thanks for your time,knowledge.
OH fer kewellllllll!!! So nice to see something of this vintage still working!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In 1973 I put together an Archer kit AM radio in electronics class in 10th grade. That was a nice radio, transformer less design so it had really good fidelity for what it was. Wish I still had it. As a class project we built a Tesla coil. Many students took turns winding the secondary winding on to a broom stick, the capacitor was aluminum foil and sheets of plate glass.
I hope schools are still teaching the trades, now it seems everyone wants their children to go to college and the trades are looked down upon. That is a loss for all of us in society. Wood shop, metal shop, auto shop, electronics shop, learn a trade people.
I have the same model with the small pedestal. Had to recap. Works great now.
yeah I've gotta say that socket doesn't look happy, perhaps replacing it with a turned pin style socket would be a good idea if it acts up again
I have the exact same clock I got off eBay. I have a few nixie tube clocks but wanted one of those panaplex clocks. The clock worked but some of the digits flickered. First thing I did was change those caps. Then I researched and found 3 new panaplex displays and it looks awesome now. I have a couple more displays in case I need them. The manual came with it and the original builder did a good job as each step he had a check mark next to after that step was completed. Looking back, that was a complicated clock, tons of resistors in that one. But it's been counting away for the last 10 months or so that I've had it. Mine was wired as a 24-hour clock.
Many HAMs wired as 24 hour. I might rewire the alarm switch for 12/24 hour as I will never use the alarm.
I have this panaplex, 2 nixie tube clocks I built, 3 LED clocks, 3 VFD clocks, 1 numitron, and 2 X-Y clock modules for display on a scope. Numitron is neat because they use incandescent filaments. I usually keep it on the dimmest setting so the filaments will last a long, long time.
Sweet!
That is such a cool clock it has such a unique look and the color is awesome
My dad has this model. One of the numbers faded and got faulty. Apparently it is impossible to get a replacement of these segments as they are not manufactured anymore.
Panaplex panels are obsolete but they do show up from time to time.
Just some information the clock sold for 54.95 in 1973. Great video
Perhaps in USA but in Canada it was over 100. Again i didn't buy it. Got it for my birthday and it was probably 76 when I got mine as i was in Jr high school. The blue VFD clock came out right after and i always wished I had that one. Now of course panaplex is cooler.
I would blame the socket for the problem.
Yes it's gold plated but i've seen them still play up.
Good old mostek, i imagine it could be replaced by an atmel micro and mosfet outputs to drive the displays.
But it would not be the same :-(
you know i see you in a lot of places hahah
@@scaleop4 Hey im like dog Sh1t, all over the place and unwelcome lol.
I do enjoy interesting clever people, i may learn something one day ha ha :-D.
Find another gold plated contact and break off a small piece then slip it into the socket next to the chip pin. That should give enough pressure on the pin to correct the situation. You can solder the piece to the socket if you want to make it permanent. You might want to check the “Hold” button.
Hold button resets the seconds to 00
I think that lose grey speaker wire was shorting someting that resullted in bad display segments
It wasn't loose. It was soldered down to the speaker. I had to unsoldered it again. To remove the board.
@@12voltvids ok, nice clock btw.
Nice those old clocks, today i repaired my technics sl-p350 cd player that was skipping random, with looking at your vids i was shure i had to change te spindel motor, and yes that was the culpritt 😃👍
Fran Blanche has the same clock on her channel to...yea i had no idea about this one till now. shame you cant get stuff like this anymore
Ya I know. I did one on mine before. I wish i still had the original one that i made when I was a kid because I would have fixed it but when it broke after a few years panaplex displays weeny cool. After all these where everywhere. Gas pumps. Cash registers. The new kid on the block was VFD with the blue green display that could be made blue or green. So I put it in my closet and totally forgot about it. Few years later I moved out and left it behind and my dad when he was cleaning up just took everything I left and tossed it out. I had a nice all tube color TV that worked tube sets weren't cool so that went to the dump and my old original VHS went to the dump and probably other things that I wish hadn't been tossed out. Wasn't even given the option to come and get it one day it was just gone. I had moved in with my girlfriend and wasn't thinking about the old crap plus at that time I was working in the repair business so broken electronics was just things I wasn't thinking about keeping because I saw so many things that were heading to the dump everyday. But I found this clock which works great looks great and completes my oddball display collection. I have Nixie, vfd, numitron, led, panaplex, and mechanical 7 segment, mechanical pin and flip clocks. I have vintage battery mechanical spring winding clocks and a and a vintage transistor electromechabical balance wheel clock from the mid 60s. That one keeps as good time as any quartz clock but uses a Ballance wheel with a magnet on it that magnet is used to trigger the coil that kicks it with a pulse to keep it running. It is probably the coolest battery powered clock I own. I also have 2 grandfather clocks one of them being a rare limited edition. I have number 21 or only 250 ever made. The thing is a monster well over 8 feet tall so it won't fit in rooms with an 8 foot ceiling.
I know those dip sockets were problematic in the old Commodore 64 computers. A person could get one working by rocking and reseating the IC's as they develop oxidation.
Exactly.
I buld my own kit aswell. And it's running perfect. Thx for making this video.
Acid solder paste on electronics? First you did not read the manual before starting, second Heathkits were supplied with 60/40 rosin core solder which you should have used, third, Science Teacher? I built about six if these clocks for myself and other people. I still have the first one that is working fine.
I also have the GC-1092 A alarm clock as well.
I had this teacher we used to call him Mr bonehead behind his back who was I know it all and you did things his way or he would throw you out of his shop class. I had this goof for both drafting and electronics. He failed me on drafting because one of my lines was not absolutely straight with the graph paper and at one end of my line that I drew I was out by about a half a millimeter and I failed for that. For the electronic side of things he insisted solder paste must be used. I did have the solder that came with the kit but assembling it in class in order to get a pass required doing it his way and unfortunately it ruined my kit. That would have been about 44 years ago I doubt Mr bonehead is still living because he was old at the time. If he is still alive he'd be over 100 by now.
"Solder paste"may have been a misnomer. Considering the time period, it was probably the standard, highly corrosive, acidic flux for copper plumbing pipe, which has a sort of paste like consistency. (The brand of plumbing flux I learned to use as a kid doing piping repairs every spring to our seashore cottage in the 1970s was called "No-Korode" ! It was Ok for pipes but NOT for electronics). Today, "solder paste" is completely different and has powdered solder mixed in with the electronics-safe flux, and is designed specifically for working with microprocessors, ball and grid components, SMD's and so on. There's also modern paste flux for electronics use, probably intended primarily for lead-free solder, and therefore likely to contain organic acids ---- be extremely careful not to inhale the fumes, which you definitely will not like, as they're more acrid than rosin, and be sure to remove that rosin residue from from the circuit boards Because it is both corrosive and conductive. I still have an ancient plastic container of Kester rosin flux in paste form, it looks like dark brown Vaseline, with similar consistency and smells exactly like pine trees when you heat it. Unless you're using leadfree solder, better to use a standard rosin flux.
@@goodun2974 It was. Highly corrosive that is. I probably could have fixed the clock as it just started losing segments, but it was put in a cupboard above the closet in my bedroom, and when I moved out I just left whatever was in there. Years later my parents were cleaning out the house and everything that was abandoned was tossed.
Could you tell me what is the brand of your shooting camera ? Brand and model# ? I use a small Canon SD1400 IS for my UA-cam videos and having a hardtime to get a 'non grainy' picture while shooting in my house basement.. even with strong lights.. (??) Your lighthings look to be standard fluorescent types ??
I am using a Sony FDR ax53 or ax33. They are almost identical. The 33 is older. Both 4k cameras but i usually run in 1080p 60frame.
Lighting is fluorescent and LED overhead and I do run very high light levels in the studio. I have a television production background and was taught to use insane light levels. Over the bench 6 10 watt LED lights, 2 40 watt fluorescent plus a 65 and 42 watt behind me. Probably 200fc
@@12voltvids Ooohh. $1300.00USD camera. I was not expecting that.. I understand you shoot videos on a daily basis.. but could you suggest a good video/photo camera that would be around $800 or less ? Thank you for your help ! BTW if you watch some of my videos you'll notice the 'grainy' dark picture of some of my basement project.. not enough lighthing at all. I'm considering to build LED panels that would be tilted on demand & hinged on the ceiling.
@@jpdesroc the ax100 was more than 2 grand here in Canada and that isn't even the most expensive one i have. That honor goes to my hdr fx1 which was more like 6000 and records HD video onto tape!
You get what you pay for. For me it is a business, i make a living doing this. You should see the tripod i use when i am doing work with the fdrax100. The tripod and head was 3000.00. Yes the tripod was more than the camera but man is it smooth. A little overkill it is left over from my Eng camera days.
Very nice clock. I'm a bit confused about your comment w.r.t. shipping. It sounds like the seller was in the USA and charged $10 for shipping in the USA. You had it shipped to a mailbox type business. Any shipping, handling, duties, customs fees after that would not be the sellers responsibility nor could they even guess at the cost. For example if you had it shipped from the mailbox business in the USA to you in Canada, because you could no go collect it in person, that shipping cost would not be related to the eBay transaction. I can see that very easily being $50 as you would have to pay the actual shipping cost and the fee the mailbox business charges. International shipping rate can jump drastically with the difference of an inch or ounce as well.
I have had various mailbox businesses ship items purchased at small local auction houses (all in USA) and some of them are very reasonable in their pricing and some are quite high. Something that can surprise you, it has me in the past.
No on the ad it said shipping $10. But it was not shipping it was not $10 and it had nothing to do with me being in Canada because he would not ship to Canada at any cost it was USA shipping only but because the auction did not go to what he wanted it to sell for he ended up charging me $45 this is after the auction closed he ended up charging me $45 to ship it to a Us address so I had it sent to my US postal box and I drove down to the States and paid an extra I think it was $5 for them to receive the package and then drove it back myself so a $20 bid plus the $50 it cost me to get it delivered by the time I picked it up brought this to $70 us that's what I was getting at. There's no way in hell it cost him $45 to ship something from California to Washington. I know American shipping is ridiculously expensive you have the most expensive shipping charges in the world. I get equipment sent to me for repair through the mail and on average to ship a camcorder for example is over $100 to ship one from the States to Canada that's US dollars it cost me about 80 Canadian to ship that same camcorder back. I wanted to order some parts for my garage door opener from the manufacturer in the states cost to ship to Washington was $7 cost to ship to Canada 50 for $10 worth of parts. Unfortunately the manufacturer would not ship to my Us address because my credit card was not registered there so I ended up buying the parts at retail in Canada for less than it would have cost to have the part shipped from the US and that was just shipping because sure as shit FedEx would have added another 3750 and broke her charges on top of that when it arrived here.
This is a common practice of eBay sellers and it should not be permitted. I bid $10 on a Sony dat recorder a few years ago again having it shipped to another Us address and the auction didn't go any higher than the $10 bid after the auction closed the actual shipping charges ended up being $55.00. when I question the seller as to how come the shipping charges were so high when on the ad it said shipping from $10 and his answer was well had you bought it at the Buy it now price of $100 the shipping would have only been $10, again very misleading, eBay should require sellers to put the shipping cost in their online ad so bidders can decide before they bid whether they are prepared to pay that charger not because had I not completed the sale I would have had a black mark on me as a buyer. So sellers know this if you don't complete the transaction they give you negative feedback and then when you want to bet on something other sellers can cancel your bid. It's a moot point now because I don't buy or sell anything on eBay never again.
You have no obligation to pay shipping rates which were not stated up front. Report such a seller to eBay. Give then negative feedback, if they try to extort you with negative feedback you can contest it.
I buy/sell almost daily and would not dream of not being clear about shipping nor would I put up with a dishonest seller.
You can ask a seller about the product. shipping charges, etc. to get a feel for how they will be to deal with. I will often ask if they know how to box something for shipment so it will not be damaged. A good seller will be happy to answer this question because they know they do a good job.
What make and model is that watch of yours? Is it vintage or recent? Reminds us of something we drooled over as a little whelk, looking in the window of a neighborhood jewelry store we passed on the way to and from school...
It's vintage Casio. About 20 years old now. At least. Solar powered and radio synchronized to radio station wwvb nightly. (Nist atomic clock).
Love your vids, but gotta correct you on a point.
I own two GC-1005s (one of which I built in 1973 and has been ticking away for a half century, the other a working "spares queen" which I fixed up and runs next to it.)
(I was able to source the three axial 'lyrics to proactively replace the 50 y.o. ones, which were actually not leaking (yet))
(So if anyone does get a GC-1005 from fleabay, strongly endorse your suggestion to replace those 2 caps, with 3 modern ones)
I also have a couple of the "new Heatkit"'s ~6 y.o. GC-1006s, one ticking away, one unbuilt.
"New Heathkit" is a contemporary corp that acquired the defunct Heathkit's I.P.
The GC-1006 is in no way a replica of the GC-1005, not intended as one, nor could you possibly pass it off as a GC-1005.
Its case is entirely different, in fact substantially smaller than the GC-1005.
Alsodoesn't
The GC-1006 is not a horrible clock and tries to bring back the original Heathkit kit-building experience.
But it looks, and operates, entirely differently from the GC-1005.
Thanks for the look inside your GC-1005!
Wanted to add that the GC-1006 doesn't use orange LEDs, in fact it's offered with a choice of red or green 7-segment displays.
Where did I ever say the 1006 was a replica of a 1005? It can't ever be a replica because the mostek chip is not available. I also have one I built with the National semiconductor chip and actually have it driving a huge display made up of bright white LED lighting strips. The display is built on a piece of lexan and some day I may even finish the project and put it in a wood frame with black glass. I haven't seen a 1006 but would imagine it is built using an atmega chip. Correct?
@@12voltvids : Again, I love your work, and look forward to your videos!
However, I stand by my comments. To answer your question:
My point was just to dispel for anyone considering a GC-1006, it's a totally different looking clock, both externally and of course internally.
The only thing the two have in common is six 7-segment digits, slaved to line frequency, and they tell the time.
in both
I and most GC-1005 fans certainly do agree that:
(sorry, youtube chopped up my reply below. here's the full version):
@12voltvids : Again, I love your work, and look forward to your videos! However, I stand by my comments. To answer your question:
28:00 :
“…Heathkit is actually selling a new clock kit; it’s a replica, it looks just like this one.”
28:22 :
“….it looks similar to this and you could possibly pass it off from a distance”
My point was just to dispel for anyone considering a GC-1006, it's a totally different looking clock, both externally and of course internally.
The only thing the two have in common is six 7-segment digits, slaved to line frequency, and they tell the time.
I bought both the red and green variants of the GC-1006, and built the red one..
I actually swapped in pin-compatible orange LED displays as, being a Panaplex fan, they look better. But sadly not really like Panaplexes.
I and most GC-1005 fans certainly do agree that:
“…but it’s still not as cool as a Panaplex display” !
You're correct in that the GC-1006 is run by an atmel/Microchip ATTINY84-20PU, with unpublished firmware.
Would love to see a video on your National (MM5316/NTE2060 from GC-1107 days?) clock running LED strips!
Thanks again for all the great vids!
@@dtss_smudge
Right but it is what is available now. There are many different kits out there but most are not 6 digit, and the vast majority are not line synchronized and use a crystal count down. Some are WiFi or GPS synchronized which they have to have this option because they are piss poor at keeping accurate time. I built a nixie tube clock (on my channel, it is the 6 digit clock from the UK) and it gains several minutes a month. I have tried off the shelf GPS modules but none of them communicate. I guess i will have to break down and buy theirs or keep reseting the time every week. Both nixie clocks and all 3 VFD clock kits keep lousy time. The ones that are accurate were the numitron and the fancy one with the LEDs around the ring and dot matrix display. (one of the pricier kits). Those 2 are very accurate because they use a dedicated RTC chip that is battery backed. You still can't beat line sync for accuracy though. Also the 1006 comes with a case where as most of the others do not.
Wooooo Dave, you really are dating yourself. I had the car version of this clock that was also Heathkit. Nice……..
The new "Heathkit" clock isn't a great design. It's just a mains-synchronized design with a really terrible battery backup circuit. See Franlab's review. I did enjoy building it though, the build instructions are pretty good.
Good video, Dave! Are you able to edit the typo in the Video Title?
* Heat >>> HeatH
Haha I have a bad keyboard. Some of the keys stick and usually i don't even check. That would have been the filename i saved the rendered file as. One time i had a frustrated as my computer was acting up and it gave me an error that the filename i wanted to use was already in use. So i name it something silly and forgot to change the time when i uploaded. Of course after I save the upload I can't change it till it is done and a few people saw the embarassing file name. This file name is still showing in windows explorer. I try to delete and I get an error that file doesn't exist. I try to name a new file with that name and windows complains that the filename is in use. Driving me bonkers trying to rid it. I guess i will have to break out the disk tools but i don't want to because it is a 2tb drive and I don't want to risk nuking all the files.
Lovely clock they don't make IC's like that anymore!
Not in close to 50 years.
@@12voltvids I've worked on early Quartz watches have the same IC just a lot smaller
I have a selection of similar looking IC's that I am going to send to FranLab for Fran to play with, along with some displays and Nixies.
why not solder through the entire card properly with flux and then wash with alcohol.
Washing the card clean is important.
You should also change ic. socket
I don't want to put any stress on this ic. They are ceramic glass and can chip easily. Remember it is 48 years old. That is extremely d for a silicon chip. Think about that for a minute. 48 years and this has been running for a good majority of those 24/7.
Great video as always dave
Clean the switches?
Why?
@@12voltvids it reminds me of the pre/main inter coupled switch
I have two walkie talkies in the USA from 1997 that I'd love to have repaired if anyone knows any leads. They still turn on but the sound doesn't travel. All I get is static.
That chips my age 1973
It's not CG - 1005 it's GC - 1005
Where did you get CG?
Open letter to John senchuk.
What is your problem?
You do realize that I am a contract partner to produce content for Google and i am paid to do so. Your little demand to terminate my account falls on deaf ears as do your complaints to my ISP.
What are you about 12? You sure act like it.
You would think that a 12 year old would know better.
@@mdavidhandler ha ha yes you are right. I am giving him the benefit of the doubt. I was chatting with Dave Jones at eevblog and he is reporting his videos too. He has problems I guess.
@@12voltvids What is his problem, does he think electronics are the devils work? I bet he has and uses all sorts of electronics.
@@mdavidhandler
I have no idea. Probably because i banned him a few years ago for being a troll.
oh how i hate rats nest devices like this!! Have pcb yet still require a whole nest of wires all over the place. terrible design.
Well that is how they did it in 1973. You should see some of the nasty stuff Sony made way back.