That Kagama is just.. angry! 😁 Like a little Tazzie devil throwing that dirt around and flipping through the air. Pretty cool potential upgrade parts and the 'find out' part is always fun unless it ends in fire 😆
I really think companies in the USA is better. And I only really say that for response time. If there was a warranty issue your more likely to get it sooner and talk with someone who will understand you. I do definitely like that there's companies trying to pick up where tbone left off. Unfortunately tbones plastic must have been some secret formula but I hope someone gets it right soon. RIP Tbone, you are missed
I run t real bulkheads on my outcast and they are solid. But m2c chassis, towers , chassis braces and ebay hingepin holders. It's a beast 2 maybe 3 years and finally just broke a rear arm and bent the hingepin today. Hingepin is already straight arm will be here Monday. Most durable rc I own. I say there stuff is probably going to be stronger then factory and if on a budget go for it.
Being in the USA I get most of my Upgrades from Integy as they are in San Jose California and ship fast and they are cheaper than hot racing. For specialty upgrades, I use Schorched and M2C upgrades. I tried GPM and it all bends or breaks and feels like pot metal. Vitivon is pricy. I decked out my Kraton 8s with Vitivon and it was 5500 in upgrades shelf queen. lol. I do love Treal Upgrades they have some of the nicest looking parts.
If you haven't tried GPM in a while you might want to give them another look. About a year and a half ago they got some new engineers and started making everything out of 7075. Obviously they're older stuff will still be their older stuff but anything made for a modern platform in the last year and a half or so is a lot better.
Great video. I have a lot of ADU in my K6 V5. 7075 suspension mounts all around, hard steel hinge pins, 7075 front steering blocks and rear hubs, 7075 T2T brace and 7075 4mm chassis with 7mm band for extra support in key areas. I also jump it hard and everything is holding up excellent. I message them online and they respond pretty fast.
I almost pulled the trigger on the sledge chassis from them but I'm glad I got the GPM branded chassis. I don't have the money to take chances with a brand I couldnt find any reviews on. Love the vids brother. Keep them coming
Talking to a rep at adu they use a 5 axis cnc to make their parts and thus why the finish is as nice as it is and seem to be quite well anodized on top of that.
Thanks for the review on ADU Racing. They're definitely a choice for me because I'm just a broke ass student with no money. I'll be buying their new 7075-T6 red aluminium kraton exb v2 bulkheads to put on my notorious as well as their hard-anodised chassis and shock towers. The build quality from what I've seen so far seems to be on par with M2C Racing or at least very close to it.
I prefer to use USA companies when I can as I am also an American worker and like to support them when possible, that being said everyone is always looking for a deal myself included. Looks to be quality items for the most part. What are your thoughts on the JBI parts. They seem to be pretty pricy but look to be heavy duty stuff. Thanks for the great content.
Team Corally make nice front and rear skid plates for their trucks. I don't thing they are worth replacing for a T-Bone style bumper/skid. bigger bumper might provide more coverage across the front to protect the shocks and in practice may not really be all that necessary. It isn't going to hold up as well as the Corally piece. It is also nice that the Corally skids also protect the bulkhead screws from getting worn down
Yeah I think I would like to integrate this into the stock skid with a couple of 3D printed parts. So far it's been holding up really well but I do agree that the stock skids are nice. It is good to have something that sticks out past the front wheels though.
I have seen titanium bolts for the Kagama's shocks but after talking with Team Corally I was told they are designed like a fuse to be the weak point and break because its a easy in the field fix where a shock tower is not. I am not sure if I want to upgrade ot not so far I only broke 1 but it took the shock cap with it
Yeah and that's definitely possibility but I have found that the lower shock mounts tend to break as a cheap fuse so I don't mind replacing the upper ones
Not to concerned with warranty on certain parts. Price does matter but suppose time will tell if these parts hold up. Never heard of these guys so thanks for the intro. Just ordered some parts on ali express to try out. Arrma 6s - esc mount, hinge pins, rear suspension mounts, center diff case. Let’s see
Convincing video, that thing should've been broke at least a dozen times from the ramp hits/misses, LOL. Well done. I haven't bought any ADU parts yet, maybe I will, IDK. I've been satisfied with the stock TC and Arrma parts for the most part. Hinge pin plates being the exception. I haven't had a chance to experience the newer TC plates like the Kagama and Asuga use, but the Kronos plates are meh.. Arrma too. Too little material, they wear quickly IMO. Hey, that front left shock standoff sure looked bent to me after your torture testing. I see Arrma has used a similar standoff where a screw goes through the tower and standoff. Also seen Arrma use a standoff with the incorporated studs, which are crap. Cheers bro!! Keep up the good fight!!👍😎🍻
Just checked the standoffs and they don't look bent but I suppose it's possible. As far as the crashes keep in mind that you see a couple of minutes of what is usually about an hour total of bashing so I usually put in what's most appropriate for the video and crashing was the most appropriate thing for this one :-) The Kagama stock hinge pin braces are pretty good.
@@DoRC I can respect that! Mucho time to make a proper video indeed. Maybe it's not bent, even if it is, it would only be a screw and not the the whole piece that needed replacement. Still like the design myself. Cheers bud👍🍻
Been having fun with my Kagama although the wing doesn’t hold up to nothing. Got a arrma one on the way. Vitavon make great bulkheads got them on my kraton and they are awesome! M2c are awesome but they don’t make bulkhead’s…
The new version on the Synchro seems to hold up a lot better! Yeah there are some things that you just can't get from anybody but a DU Racing for TC cars.
I got some generic Arrma bulkheads on Amazon that rely on the sway bar cover to seal a hole in the actual bulkhead cover. Scorched bulkheads also have a gap on the side that they fill with a little rubber plug. Not sure if that would actually be a problem in the long run or not. Their stuff seems to be pretty well engineered so it's probably okay.
Before you upgrade you might want to get a replacement from TC's website. They actually revised it. It looks similar but the material has been thickened for greater strength.
@@DoRC thanks, I will check that out. The front corner of my battery tray keep bending and becoming lodged under the support at the front end of the car.
@glacialedge Yeah the other thing you can do is get some better battery straps that have gripy material on the inside. That was tend to stop the battery from flying around as much
I am from Europe and American parts are expensive here and shipping cost kills it as well. From Aliexpress I get cheap parts, which usually are in good quality and shipping costs are none.
On ebay its adu racing... i have the adu racing rear tower on my outcast 6s to replace the broken m2c tower.. and i have to say it is a much superior part.
Yeah it's ADU racing on AliExpress too. I think their logo is supposed to have an a in there somewhere but it sure does look like DU Racing :-). So far they do seem to be making pretty good parts
Not a fan of the bumper, poorly designed and bends easily (and just plain ugly!). And, yeah, leaving that protective coating seems lazy, especially on the side that goes against the chassis? Bulkhead and shock mounts seem like really nice upgrades (I think the gold screws look tacky) but I'm always leary about buying products that are not supported by my lhs. I do it, occasionally, but I'll sacrifice price for quality and support most times.
I don't really ever go to my LHS so that's not really a problem for me but if you're used to that I can definitely see it being an issue. I agree that the bumper doesn't seem like the best design in the world but so far it's actually holding up well.
@@DoRCi think it goes a lot further to support the companies that support local stores. Buying from ebay/aliexpress/amazon doesn’t help local shops that try to help newcomers to the hobby or that try to fund a local track. If that means I have Hong Nor/IGT8 buggies, then so be it, quality is excellent and it supports the local shops.
I will buy American and pay more....Most of the Chinese parts are what they are!!! Junk!!!! Although you have to watch all parts there are some in the US that aren't great!!! M2C parts are awesome 💯
They’re all Chinese made I guarantee you. All RTR are made in China. The device we watch your channel and device you record your channel are made in China. Deal with it. It’s the only way u can afford such items.
@garygallant5390 Traxxas is actually made in Taiwan but yeah I think all other RTRs are made in China. Most aftermarket stuff is also made in China though M2C is made in the USA.
@@RcPlayer-tt2vwHonestly the stuff I bash really hard I leave stock also...plastic is the best for bashing, or I try to use factory upgrades if available, I use a few M2C items for specific parts, but don't always upgrade everything...
M2C is King, made in USA and quick shipping. Deff are pricy, but never broke anything
They make top quality products!
That Kagama is just.. angry! 😁 Like a little Tazzie devil throwing that dirt around and flipping through the air. Pretty cool potential upgrade parts and the 'find out' part is always fun unless it ends in fire 😆
Yeah and most of that was less than half throttle.
I really think companies in the USA is better. And I only really say that for response time. If there was a warranty issue your more likely to get it sooner and talk with someone who will understand you. I do definitely like that there's companies trying to pick up where tbone left off. Unfortunately tbones plastic must have been some secret formula but I hope someone gets it right soon. RIP Tbone, you are missed
I completely agree. With AliExpress companies it's kind of a crap shoot. In my experience they seem to be fairly responsive but there's no guarantees.
You do some really nice builds, This one looks awesome...
Thanks! Did you check out the full build video? I'm doing a giveaway in it.
I run t real bulkheads on my outcast and they are solid. But m2c chassis, towers , chassis braces and ebay hingepin holders. It's a beast 2 maybe 3 years and finally just broke a rear arm and bent the hingepin today. Hingepin is already straight arm will be here Monday. Most durable rc I own. I say there stuff is probably going to be stronger then factory and if on a budget go for it.
Yeah I think generally anything made out of real 7075 will be better than 6061 parts. Of course EXB stuff doesn't always feel that way :-)
Being in the USA I get most of my Upgrades from Integy as they are in San Jose California and ship fast and they are cheaper than hot racing. For specialty upgrades, I use Schorched and M2C upgrades. I tried GPM and it all bends or breaks and feels like pot metal. Vitivon is pricy. I decked out my Kraton 8s with Vitivon and it was 5500 in upgrades shelf queen. lol. I do love Treal Upgrades they have some of the nicest looking parts.
If you haven't tried GPM in a while you might want to give them another look. About a year and a half ago they got some new engineers and started making everything out of 7075. Obviously they're older stuff will still be their older stuff but anything made for a modern platform in the last year and a half or so is a lot better.
Pretty sure all the Integy stuff is China made too. Not knocking, but I haven't found a reason to buy their stuff over any other China parts.
@@knowair6767 Yes they are made in China and their products, well seemingly improved from what they used to be, are still kind of hit or miss.
Great video. I have a lot of ADU in my K6 V5. 7075 suspension mounts all around, hard steel hinge pins, 7075 front steering blocks and rear hubs, 7075 T2T brace and 7075 4mm chassis with 7mm band for extra support in key areas. I also jump it hard and everything is holding up excellent. I message them online and they respond pretty fast.
Yeah so far they seem to be a pretty decent company.
7075*
@FilthUD close enough :-)
@@FilthUD I fixed it for you, it was the T6 that threw me. Hope that makes your weekend a bit better.
@brucecampbellx I feel better already :-)
I almost pulled the trigger on the sledge chassis from them but I'm glad I got the GPM branded chassis. I don't have the money to take chances with a brand I couldnt find any reviews on. Love the vids brother. Keep them coming
How is the GPM chassis?
@@DoRC it's held up to alot more than the stock one did. It's went higher and wre ked harder with no bends at all
@@DoRC the GPM rear shock tower hasn't bent either. The front one from GPM will be here monday
Only problem with the GPM shock tower is you can't use the Traxxas wheelie bar. Doesn't fit
Cool stuff
Thanks :-)
The Best Basher is the Traxxas Revo, Nitro or Electric, put the RPM Upgrades on and you'll have Mega Fun for Years
Ehh. Maybe 10 years ago but these days it's pretty outdated.
Talking to a rep at adu they use a 5 axis cnc to make their parts and thus why the finish is as nice as it is and seem to be quite well anodized on top of that.
Nice! Yeah the end result is a pretty decent looking product for sure.
Thanks for the review on ADU Racing. They're definitely a choice for me because I'm just a broke ass student with no money. I'll be buying their new 7075-T6 red aluminium kraton exb v2 bulkheads to put on my notorious as well as their hard-anodised chassis and shock towers. The build quality from what I've seen so far seems to be on par with M2C Racing or at least very close to it.
I agree. They definitely need to be making a good product.
I prefer to use USA companies when I can as I am also an American worker and like to support them when possible, that being said everyone is always looking for a deal myself included. Looks to be quality items for the most part. What are your thoughts on the JBI parts. They seem to be pretty pricy but look to be heavy duty stuff. Thanks for the great content.
I've had several just bash it products over the years and I've never had any complaint other than the fact that they're chassis are very heavy.
Team Corally make nice front and rear skid plates for their trucks. I don't thing they are worth replacing for a T-Bone style bumper/skid. bigger bumper might provide more coverage across the front to protect the shocks and in practice may not really be all that necessary. It isn't going to hold up as well as the Corally piece. It is also nice that the Corally skids also protect the bulkhead screws from getting worn down
Yeah I think I would like to integrate this into the stock skid with a couple of 3D printed parts. So far it's been holding up really well but I do agree that the stock skids are nice. It is good to have something that sticks out past the front wheels though.
I like there stuff got hinge pin holders motor mounts hubs
Yeah so far it seems like good quality.
im interested in there xmaxx upgrades. might have to try the hobbywing motor mount and front bumper for sure
Let me know how it goes. I haven't tried any of those yet
I have seen titanium bolts for the Kagama's shocks but after talking with Team Corally I was told they are designed like a fuse to be the weak point and break because its a easy in the field fix where a shock tower is not. I am not sure if I want to upgrade ot not so far I only broke 1 but it took the shock cap with it
Yeah and that's definitely possibility but I have found that the lower shock mounts tend to break as a cheap fuse so I don't mind replacing the upper ones
Not to concerned with warranty on certain parts. Price does matter but suppose time will tell if these parts hold up. Never heard of these guys so thanks for the intro. Just ordered some parts on ali express to try out. Arrma 6s - esc mount, hinge pins, rear suspension mounts, center diff case. Let’s see
Let me know what you think!
I’d like to see how their 7075 chassis’ hold up, haven’t seen one for the Spark or Syncro platforms yet.
Given the quality I've seen and the feedback from other people I suspect it'll be pretty good. TC makes one for the spark
Great video.
Btw how do you clean your cars, they always look so clean.
Wash them off with a hose blow dry with compressed air and then put in front of a fan to finish drying so they don't get rusty.
Convincing video, that thing should've been broke at least a dozen times from the ramp hits/misses, LOL. Well done. I haven't bought any ADU parts yet, maybe I will, IDK. I've been satisfied with the stock TC and Arrma parts for the most part. Hinge pin plates being the exception. I haven't had a chance to experience the newer TC plates like the Kagama and Asuga use, but the Kronos plates are meh.. Arrma too. Too little material, they wear quickly IMO. Hey, that front left shock standoff sure looked bent to me after your torture testing. I see Arrma has used a similar standoff where a screw goes through the tower and standoff. Also seen Arrma use a standoff with the incorporated studs, which are crap. Cheers bro!! Keep up the good fight!!👍😎🍻
Just checked the standoffs and they don't look bent but I suppose it's possible. As far as the crashes keep in mind that you see a couple of minutes of what is usually about an hour total of bashing so I usually put in what's most appropriate for the video and crashing was the most appropriate thing for this one :-)
The Kagama stock hinge pin braces are pretty good.
@@DoRC I can respect that! Mucho time to make a proper video indeed. Maybe it's not bent, even if it is, it would only be a screw and not the the whole piece that needed replacement. Still like the design myself. Cheers bud👍🍻
Been having fun with my Kagama although the wing doesn’t hold up to nothing. Got a arrma one on the way. Vitavon make great bulkheads got them on my kraton and they are awesome! M2c are awesome but they don’t make bulkhead’s…
The new version on the Synchro seems to hold up a lot better!
Yeah there are some things that you just can't get from anybody but a DU Racing for TC cars.
You can add a wheelie bar from one of the other models then it wont move that is what I did I forget which one I have it posted how it went on
At 6:22 strangest (but spectacular) mid-air adjustment I've ever seen
I was trying to do backflip to front flip but the inertia wasn't quite there.
What other brand leaves holes in there bulkheadS? Just so I’m aware thank you great video as always
I got some generic Arrma bulkheads on Amazon that rely on the sway bar cover to seal a hole in the actual bulkhead cover. Scorched bulkheads also have a gap on the side that they fill with a little rubber plug. Not sure if that would actually be a problem in the long run or not. Their stuff seems to be pretty well engineered so it's probably okay.
N1 basher RC youtuber out there, I say it ever video xD
Thanks man Glad you enjoy :-)
The machined aluminum bulkheads are nice but that bumper is just a cheap piece of plastic you can make at home with hand tools.
It is but could you make it for $12 including the value of your time?
I don’t see anything wrong with the stock one
@@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj The stock one is okay but having a bumper that sticks out beyond the wheels can really help protect things in a crash.
Adu racing is the best quality and price 💪🏻💪🏻
They do seem to make decent stuff.
Adu makes a 7075 alum battery tray upgrade I have been tempted by. Battery tray has been an issue on my Kagama.
Before you upgrade you might want to get a replacement from TC's website. They actually revised it. It looks similar but the material has been thickened for greater strength.
@@DoRC thanks, I will check that out. The front corner of my battery tray keep bending and becoming lodged under the support at the front end of the car.
@@DoRC is it the V2 that is better material? Thanks.
@glacialedge Yes. Can't guarantee it's going to survive abuse but it is updated
@glacialedge Yeah the other thing you can do is get some better battery straps that have gripy material on the inside. That was tend to stop the battery from flying around as much
I am from Europe and American parts are expensive here and shipping cost kills it as well. From Aliexpress I get cheap parts, which usually are in good quality and shipping costs are none.
Yeah where you are located definitely has a big influence on value in this hobby
M2c scorched etc. all day.
They definitely make good quality products
As for me price has more value, because I live in Russia, and order upgrades just from aliexpress😅
Yeah if you're not in the US it's definitely a different value proposition :-) thanks for watching!
What do people think:
• Kagama or
• Kraton ?
I say Kagama.
On ebay its adu racing... i have the adu racing rear tower on my outcast 6s to replace the broken m2c tower.. and i have to say it is a much superior part.
Yeah it's ADU racing on AliExpress too. I think their logo is supposed to have an a in there somewhere but it sure does look like DU Racing :-). So far they do seem to be making pretty good parts
@@DoRC the logo on the packaging is du racing so it is kinda vague.. maybe if u get a chance to work with them u can maybe suggest an update
@AVERAGEJOERC I think maybe the middle part is supposed to be an a under the d&u but yeah it's pretty obscure
Not a fan of the bumper, poorly designed and bends easily (and just plain ugly!). And, yeah, leaving that protective coating seems lazy, especially on the side that goes against the chassis? Bulkhead and shock mounts seem like really nice upgrades (I think the gold screws look tacky) but I'm always leary about buying products that are not supported by my lhs. I do it, occasionally, but I'll sacrifice price for quality and support most times.
I don't really ever go to my LHS so that's not really a problem for me but if you're used to that I can definitely see it being an issue. I agree that the bumper doesn't seem like the best design in the world but so far it's actually holding up well.
buy american/european made
Unfortunately sticking to that in this hobby would preclude the purchase of most RC cars.
@@DoRCtotally agree 👍
@@itzjoeylo4501 I mean that being said I do like to support US companies when I can.
@@DoRCi think it goes a lot further to support the companies that support local stores. Buying from ebay/aliexpress/amazon doesn’t help local shops that try to help newcomers to the hobby or that try to fund a local track. If that means I have Hong Nor/IGT8 buggies, then so be it, quality is excellent and it supports the local shops.
@vivos71 Yeah that's very true.
Made in USA 🇺🇸 I ❤️ I’ll spend more cash 💵 to get an Made in USA 🇺🇸 Products
Definitely good to support USA companies!
I will buy American and pay more....Most of the Chinese parts are what they are!!! Junk!!!! Although you have to watch all parts there are some in the US that aren't great!!! M2C parts are awesome 💯
I agree that some of the Chinese stuff is drunk but these actually seem to be pretty good.
I try to support m2 racing but if I’m going use the rc to bash I go cheap as possible stock to china to parts car lol ,
They’re all Chinese made I guarantee you. All RTR are made in China.
The device we watch your channel and device you record your channel are made in China. Deal with it.
It’s the only way u can afford such items.
@garygallant5390 Traxxas is actually made in Taiwan but yeah I think all other RTRs are made in China. Most aftermarket stuff is also made in China though M2C is made in the USA.
@@RcPlayer-tt2vwHonestly the stuff I bash really hard I leave stock also...plastic is the best for bashing, or I try to use factory upgrades if available, I use a few M2C items for specific parts, but don't always upgrade everything...
skid plate looks like black polycarbonate to me
I don't think it's polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is typically pretty stiff and brittle and this is quite flexible.