Ive been watching A LOT of videos of 3D printing. Ive settled on the AnkerMake M5C for terrain, and the UniFormation GK2. Thanks for and the great advice. Now i can get to work on my Hero Quest 3D board!
Thundarr the Barbarian!! Love the shirt :) Time to pull out the microscope to see the difference between the resins. And once the paint is on the model, even with a very good mini painter, I don't think the extreme detail is as important. At this point I'd like to see other upgrades to the printer like the heated bed and ... Holy cow! A USB port in the front!! Thanks for another great video
Cool review and the small creature comforts offered by GKTwo does have me leaning towards it, especially having the case open with a hinge system rather than lifting the cover up and " where do I put this at "
Great video as always…I got the Bambu Lab P1S and I could not be more impressed, it’s in my opinion the best terrain printer you can buy. I also love the sunlu resin but I always use the abs like version.
I also picked up the P1S and so far, it's great, but I do not use the cloud functions, do not trust this and they had a huge issue this week. I do have an Mk3s which is nice but too slow at this point. Cheers!
That is great, heating is a big issue for me with FDM. It would surely be an issue as well with resin. Where I am in Canada and old house is not 3D printing friendly. Thank you again for your video.
I haven't tried it myself, I will this winter, but others have been recommending a grow tent and rechargeable pocket warmers. FDM I have had no issues but my resin will need it this year I think. If you don't have a tent you can try the cardboard and foam box method, it won't add extra heat but it could keep drafts and the night cold from affecting it too much.
@@RoseKindred I made a semi enclosure that has cut down the draft. For the exposed opening I sometimes when needed made a swing door. My printer is in a horse stable enclosure lol. I’ll keep in mind the rechargeable pocket warmer, that is a brilliant idea. Thank you for the advice.
@@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel Your welcome. I don't know if they will help ya in Canada but they should. You may need to test before printing, a simple thermometer and setting 1 or 2 of the warmers to different levels, and checking after 3 hours or so.
Great job on the video. I also went with the GKTWO. I had pre ordered the ANYCUBIC M5S but cancelled it when I (like you) saw Fauxhammer and Vogman’s videos on the GKTWO. I also own the Prusa MK3S+ and ordered the MK4 upgrade kit back in June (which still has yet to arrive😡). Unlike you I’m keeping my order ONLY because my MK3 had a catastrophic failure with TPU that ruined the extruder and associated wiring so the upgrade kit will put it back in service. I do agree with you that the MK4 fell behind the other manufacturers and I’m disappointed with the feature set of the MK4 but I didn’t have the heart to just toss my MK3 when there was a strong option to breath new life into it. I’m 1000% happy with my GKTWO and the results I’m getting. I also settled on the SUNLU resin and have been using the ABS-like resin almost exclusively. Wonderfully detailed prints and it has great durability. Keep up the great work. I’ll subscribe to your channel.
I really like the gk2 and you are making it look even better. My problem, I'd want to upscale everything...which means I'd need to sell all my current minis lol.
So glad you are honest and candid about the reasons for your decisions. I haven't been keeping up with the new 3d printer advancements/features because of life. But I'm starting to get back into printing things. So, I'm glad you mentioned the AnkerMake M5. FDM printers have come a long way from 3-5 years ago. Definitely want something that's wifi enabled (there's no need to pull SD cards) and a press one button to start it and forget it. Resin printing is still too messy for me, though. I tried it 4 years ago and had a vat leak overnight. I also, generally, hated washing and curing the minis. It's a whole process...But definitely makes very detailed minis! FDM still can't do this even with a smaller nozzle, right?
No, FDM can't get the details that a resin printer can. But they can be tabletop ready and many are happy with their FDM-printed minis. Tom Tullis from Fat Dragon Games is a great resource for tuning your FDM printers for mini printing.
Hey dude. I got a GK2 recently (based on your recommendation... heh) and am having some trouble with the prints starting okay, but after a couple layers, failing. Would you mind sharing the print settings that you are using? Do you use any of the recommended profiles that come on the USB drive? I've tried a couple now and am getting similar results with both. Thanks.
What resin are you using? That will make a big difference. Click on this link to see a screenshot of my settings for Sunlu Standard Grey at .03 layer height. drive.google.com/file/d/1--HbNSFfT8XdklhmQypKYL-staVEKmnu/view?usp=sharing
I’m using the Siraya Easy right now. This morning I chose one of the .05 profiles for the Kraken Studios elevator dungeon tile piece and was successful. I’ll take a look at your settings and compare. Thanks!
I was going to pick up the Ankermake M5 but then I realized it only goes to 260c. I do use Carbon fiber filament which requires 300c. So Im looking more into the new Bambu Labs P1S. Which is halfway between the Carbon and P1P. The only other option Ive found was the Creality S1 Pro. Which Isnt bad at about $400, but its slow still. Options Options. As far as resin Im using Elegoo Saturn 4k. It has the larger build space and does a good job. Never had an issue with the ball you speak of but i can see how it may be a problem. Resin is nice for minis. Good idea using the support to pick up the cleaning sheet btw. Never thought of that. Im getting into Battletech too! Back into I should say. Painting up some Wolf's Dragoons ATM.
Their new printer, the M5C, has an all-metal hotend and can print at 300C. They'll also be offering an all-metal hotend upgrade for the M5. That being said, I suspect the P1S is a better machine, provided it doesn't randomly start printing in the middle of the night.
I would definitely get the P1S over the AnkerMake if you are printing carbon fiber due to the fact that it is enclosed and you have greater temp control.
Very good points. The machine and company may be highly respected but the cost does not seem to equal what you get with the other machines. Prusa has fallen behind in tech, perhaps they will overhaul and catch up, but there are now many other good options out there.
With the advent of core x-y, Prusa got caught with their pants down. Straight up. Josef P knows it. MK4 was a hasty answer and he was relying on the fan base to save him. No point in buying one anymore at those prices.
I'm glad you're speaking your mind about recent Prusa - as someone who invested heavily into them myself, it's disappointing to see them fall so behind the curve. If you say anything negative about them on their forum/facebook groups you will be super ridiculed, which is even more unfortunate. I have the feeling they're going to get to the point where everything they make is hyper inflated cost-wise just to sell to their whales
Initial cost of a Prusa has always been somewhat more expensive than cheap clones. But lifetime cost is lower. Bambu Labs printers have their share of very troublesome issues, including a bunch of parts made only by Bambu Labs which regularly wear out. Myself, I have an Elegoo resin printer (good customer support / parts availability) and a Prusa (just doesn't need much maintenance other than replacing nozzles and lubrication). I did order a MK4 kit, since I value ease of maintenance and longevity over initial cost outlay. I don't want to be landfilling my fancy printer in two years because the company has moved on to the newer models.
I would have said the P1P because it is slightly cheaper than the M5 but now, I suggest the new M5C which is about $400 which is an amazing deal. It is slightly smaller than the M5 but the same bed size as most other entry level printers. Get the P1P if you need the larger bed size.
I’ve stopped washing mine in alcohol. I use some dish soap and hot water, occasionally they have left over resin, but the my are just toys for me, and once you get paint in them, they look great.
STOP doing that. I assume you are doing that in your sink which means you are draining toxic resin into your local water system, which is ILLEGAL in most countries and for good reason. You have to dispose of these dangerous chemicals in a safe manner.
So I guess the 3D printer case patent expired. I remember right when 3D printers were getting to consumer level some patent troll made a patent of a integrated case and I think back then the only people that payed them royalties so they could have cases was MakerBot. Lots of industrial level printers paid but consumer printers haven't. All printers should come with a case like the UniFormation, it helps the noise level so much. EDIT: Oh, this is a resin printer. I think they are exempt from the patent because it was written way before resin printers were even thought of.
Are you talking about the Sunlu resin? Why is it shilling if I actually did choose to switch after seeing its performance and price? I bought the GK Two with my own funds, they didn't send it to me.
![UniFormation GKtwo 3D resin printer [HONEST REVIEW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ie18N4GrMVY/mqdefault.jpg)
Good call!!!!
Ive been watching A LOT of videos of 3D printing. Ive settled on the AnkerMake M5C for terrain, and the UniFormation GK2. Thanks for and the great advice. Now i can get to work on my Hero Quest 3D board!
Thundarr the Barbarian!! Love the shirt :) Time to pull out the microscope to see the difference between the resins. And once the paint is on the model, even with a very good mini painter, I don't think the extreme detail is as important. At this point I'd like to see other upgrades to the printer like the heated bed and ... Holy cow! A USB port in the front!! Thanks for another great video
Cool review and the small creature comforts offered by GKTwo does have me leaning towards it, especially having the case open with a hinge system rather than lifting the cover up and " where do I put this at "
You have to be gentle with the cover b/c I've seen reports the screws can strip.
i use sunlu in my bambu p1s . very happy with them so far
Great video as always…I got the Bambu Lab P1S and I could not be more impressed, it’s in my opinion the best terrain printer you can buy. I also love the sunlu resin but I always use the abs like version.
I also picked up the P1S and so far, it's great, but I do not use the cloud functions, do not trust this and they had a huge issue this week. I do have an Mk3s which is nice but too slow at this point. Cheers!
That is great, heating is a big issue for me with FDM. It would surely be an issue as well with resin. Where I am in Canada and old house is not 3D printing friendly.
Thank you again for your video.
I haven't tried it myself, I will this winter, but others have been recommending a grow tent and rechargeable pocket warmers. FDM I have had no issues but my resin will need it this year I think. If you don't have a tent you can try the cardboard and foam box method, it won't add extra heat but it could keep drafts and the night cold from affecting it too much.
@@RoseKindred I made a semi enclosure that has cut down the draft. For the exposed opening I sometimes when needed made a swing door. My printer is in a horse stable enclosure lol. I’ll keep in mind the rechargeable pocket warmer, that is a brilliant idea. Thank you for the advice.
@@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel Your welcome. I don't know if they will help ya in Canada but they should. You may need to test before printing, a simple thermometer and setting 1 or 2 of the warmers to different levels, and checking after 3 hours or so.
Great job on the video. I also went with the GKTWO. I had pre ordered the ANYCUBIC M5S but cancelled it when I (like you) saw Fauxhammer and Vogman’s videos on the GKTWO. I also own the Prusa MK3S+ and ordered the MK4 upgrade kit back in June (which still has yet to arrive😡). Unlike you I’m keeping my order ONLY because my MK3 had a catastrophic failure with TPU that ruined the extruder and associated wiring so the upgrade kit will put it back in service. I do agree with you that the MK4 fell behind the other manufacturers and I’m disappointed with the feature set of the MK4 but I didn’t have the heart to just toss my MK3 when there was a strong option to breath new life into it. I’m 1000% happy with my GKTWO and the results I’m getting. I also settled on the SUNLU resin and have been using the ABS-like resin almost exclusively. Wonderfully detailed prints and it has great durability. Keep up the great work. I’ll subscribe to your channel.
Thanks for the sub! I'm happy with my GK Two as well and the Sunlu ABS Like.
I really like the gk2 and you are making it look even better.
My problem, I'd want to upscale everything...which means I'd need to sell all my current minis lol.
Yeah, upscaling the Battletech minis is so fun!
Loved the video, first time finding your channel and will definitely watch more. Just as an aside MK is pronounced Mark.
So glad you are honest and candid about the reasons for your decisions. I haven't been keeping up with the new 3d printer advancements/features because of life. But I'm starting to get back into printing things. So, I'm glad you mentioned the AnkerMake M5. FDM printers have come a long way from 3-5 years ago. Definitely want something that's wifi enabled (there's no need to pull SD cards) and a press one button to start it and forget it.
Resin printing is still too messy for me, though. I tried it 4 years ago and had a vat leak overnight. I also, generally, hated washing and curing the minis. It's a whole process...But definitely makes very detailed minis! FDM still can't do this even with a smaller nozzle, right?
No, FDM can't get the details that a resin printer can. But they can be tabletop ready and many are happy with their FDM-printed minis. Tom Tullis from Fat Dragon Games is a great resource for tuning your FDM printers for mini printing.
Red wax looks like it came out with more hairs and dangly bits on it, but the detail overall looks fine.
Any chance in reviewing the new Creality Ender 3 V3 SE with auto leveling bed ? Thanks
If Creality is willing to send one to me...😅
Hey dude. I got a GK2 recently (based on your recommendation... heh) and am having some trouble with the prints starting okay, but after a couple layers, failing. Would you mind sharing the print settings that you are using? Do you use any of the recommended profiles that come on the USB drive? I've tried a couple now and am getting similar results with both. Thanks.
What resin are you using? That will make a big difference. Click on this link to see a screenshot of my settings for Sunlu Standard Grey at .03 layer height. drive.google.com/file/d/1--HbNSFfT8XdklhmQypKYL-staVEKmnu/view?usp=sharing
I’m using the Siraya Easy right now. This morning I chose one of the .05 profiles for the Kraken Studios elevator dungeon tile piece and was successful. I’ll take a look at your settings and compare. Thanks!
I was going to pick up the Ankermake M5 but then I realized it only goes to 260c. I do use Carbon fiber filament which requires 300c. So Im looking more into the new Bambu Labs P1S. Which is halfway between the Carbon and P1P. The only other option Ive found was the Creality S1 Pro. Which Isnt bad at about $400, but its slow still. Options Options.
As far as resin Im using Elegoo Saturn 4k. It has the larger build space and does a good job. Never had an issue with the ball you speak of but i can see how it may be a problem. Resin is nice for minis. Good idea using the support to pick up the cleaning sheet btw. Never thought of that.
Im getting into Battletech too! Back into I should say. Painting up some Wolf's Dragoons ATM.
Their new printer, the M5C, has an all-metal hotend and can print at 300C. They'll also be offering an all-metal hotend upgrade for the M5. That being said, I suspect the P1S is a better machine, provided it doesn't randomly start printing in the middle of the night.
I would definitely get the P1S over the AnkerMake if you are printing carbon fiber due to the fact that it is enclosed and you have greater temp control.
Very good points. The machine and company may be highly respected but the cost does not seem to equal what you get with the other machines. Prusa has fallen behind in tech, perhaps they will overhaul and catch up, but there are now many other good options out there.
What FEP do you use with your GKTWO? I’ve had two fails/rips so far with the nfeps that came with the unit… looking for maybe something more reliable
I haven't had to change the FEP in mine yet--I would probably just look on Amazon for a replacement once I run out.
Even the Bambu A1 is better than an Mk4 :D
With the advent of core x-y, Prusa got caught with their pants down. Straight up. Josef P knows it. MK4 was a hasty answer and he was relying on the fan base to save him. No point in buying one anymore at those prices.
Prusa XL is a Core XY printer and it is fantastic. Prusa is probably aiming more for the BMW owner than the Hyundai owner.
I'm glad you're speaking your mind about recent Prusa - as someone who invested heavily into them myself, it's disappointing to see them fall so behind the curve. If you say anything negative about them on their forum/facebook groups you will be super ridiculed, which is even more unfortunate. I have the feeling they're going to get to the point where everything they make is hyper inflated cost-wise just to sell to their whales
Initial cost of a Prusa has always been somewhat more expensive than cheap clones. But lifetime cost is lower. Bambu Labs printers have their share of very troublesome issues, including a bunch of parts made only by Bambu Labs which regularly wear out. Myself, I have an Elegoo resin printer (good customer support / parts availability) and a Prusa (just doesn't need much maintenance other than replacing nozzles and lubrication). I did order a MK4 kit, since I value ease of maintenance and longevity over initial cost outlay. I don't want to be landfilling my fancy printer in two years because the company has moved on to the newer models.
@gaminggeek241 which would u choose between the p1p and the ankermake m5 for printing only with pla and mostly terrain for tabletop games?
I would have said the P1P because it is slightly cheaper than the M5 but now, I suggest the new M5C which is about $400 which is an amazing deal. It is slightly smaller than the M5 but the same bed size as most other entry level printers. Get the P1P if you need the larger bed size.
Have you noticed any z-wobble in your uniformation printer? Looking into this printer and I've seen some comments about that issue showing up.
No z-wobble so far. I hadn't heard of this issue but will update if I run into it.
I’ve stopped washing mine in alcohol. I use some dish soap and hot water, occasionally they have left over resin, but the my are just toys for me, and once you get paint in them, they look great.
STOP doing that. I assume you are doing that in your sink which means you are draining toxic resin into your local water system, which is ILLEGAL in most countries and for good reason. You have to dispose of these dangerous chemicals in a safe manner.
oh my
So I guess the 3D printer case patent expired. I remember right when 3D printers were getting to consumer level some patent troll made a patent of a integrated case and I think back then the only people that payed them royalties so they could have cases was MakerBot. Lots of industrial level printers paid but consumer printers haven't. All printers should come with a case like the UniFormation, it helps the noise level so much.
EDIT: Oh, this is a resin printer. I think they are exempt from the patent because it was written way before resin printers were even thought of.
Thompson Kimberly Moore Linda Harris Jeffrey
I started with the ender 3 honestly prusa has been over priced for years and years now
I feel a bit let down by this switch to clearly shilling for companies which send you product. Unsubscribing. :(
Are you talking about the Sunlu resin? Why is it shilling if I actually did choose to switch after seeing its performance and price? I bought the GK Two with my own funds, they didn't send it to me.
@fauxHammer talked me into it as well. It should be here next week!