Excellent, simple tutorial. Which is good for me as I tend to see these jobs as daunting... I feel up to it now! Which is just as well as Irish Rover (fellow youtuber and 500x rider) has been telling me for about 50000km that I should do this!!
CaptainCranky - definitely improved damping. What I experienced was less “harsh” reaction to sharp small bumps and ruts and an overall improvement of ”floating over” all those road patched. A 1 ltr bottle of 10w fork oil cost $24. Well worth it.
What a good step by step tutorial. I’m thinking about one of these bikes, after loosing my monster due to dog vs front wheel. Your review about the bikes purpose and my thoughts. Are spot on anyway for now I will get over my injuries.
If I ever get the courage to do this I will be fitting rubber gaitors to protect the forks and seals. I would always want my bikes to have them fitted as standard.
C Cooper - not a big fan of fork gaiters. Used to have them on road and trail bikes in the 70’s. The problem is they are not totally water or dust proof (they have a breather hole to allow them to compress and expand). So if you don’t remove them and clean and wd40 the forks regularly you get more damage to the forks and seals than not having them.
Roger Perrett - well it pretty much is unless you want to tear down the forks and remove all the components - which I don’t think is necessary for a simple oil change.
Gday mate came across this video again and realized you have had that measuring cup for a while as i have a yellow one the same which i inherited from my father who had it for decades still use it today they dont make them like that anymore .
Thanks, very useful. And about the shock absorver? Too much hassle/difficult, or not much needed? No videos on YT how DIY for the stock cb500x absorver...
, I have been watching your channel for quite some time now, and I learned a lot about how to take care of my bike. I do have a question though, wouldn't it be easier and faster to just open the bolts of the breaks and siphon it out then to remove the whole breaks? Sincerely Shai Laslo, Israel
Just a thought - when the fork leg is taken out, you pump the leg to get all the oil out. So when you refill with fresh oil do you give the leg a few pumps to remove air from the lower leg ? BTW just fitted the YSS rear shock. It makes a whole load of difference to the rear road handling. Cheers m’Dear
Good question. Yes. Definitely have to pump when refilling. I add about half, give it a few pumps and you see the level go down significantly. Then I add the rest till I’ve got the desired air gap.
lol no need to answer that, just moved towards 1:50, three seconds right after asking this question and noticed why: So that i dont struggle doing it afterwards! Thanks. Will keep this here in case anyone else has the same question ans sees it :) Cheers from Portugal
Thanks for the video. But I wonder the reason why you changed the fork oil. Isnt it too early . Or you tried to change the character of front suspension? and used different type of suspension oil?
thank you again for the video. I did this a year ago, I've ridden 12K km since then and one seal is leaking. Do I also have to change the oil or is it not really necessary for now? I'd like to save the money :D
Try cleaning the seal with a “seal mate” before changing seals. This often fixes the leak. I’ve done it myself on my bike 40,000km ago and the seals are still going strong at 74,000km
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thanks, I tried it and it looks good for now :) I don't have the SealMate but I cut it myself out of some plastic trash. I'm riding quite a bit tomorrow so I'll see if it works. Edit: so I think it's a bit better now, but it's still leaking so at some point (probably before my next multi-day tour) I will need to change it.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Very good video, as always! Many thanks. My fork is leaking oil now and I need to change the seals. Which manual do you use? Or do you not use any? Would be great to have a video on that, indeed. Have a good one. Cherio.
mikahorst - before you change your seals try cleaning them. Many times cleaning is all they need. Have a look at this or similar ua-cam.com/video/NR8GYeVHc0Q/v-deo.html Manual ? If you join the Honda NC750X owners group there is a manual in the files section.
So the Front forks are the same as the 500 x ( does this mean rear shock set up the same ) if this is the case may be able to put the off Kit on from the 500 X Rally raid bike ?
Thanks for all your Honda NC videos, they are very helpful. There are not a lot of DIY vids on Y/T for the NC so its appreciated!!!
Changed the oil on mine following all these steps ,very easy and helpfull video,thank you I enjoy your content
Excellent, simple tutorial. Which is good for me as I tend to see these jobs as daunting... I feel up to it now!
Which is just as well as Irish Rover (fellow youtuber and 500x rider) has been telling me for about 50000km that I should do this!!
CaptainCranky - definitely improved damping. What I experienced was less “harsh” reaction to sharp small bumps and ruts and an overall improvement of ”floating over” all those road patched.
A 1 ltr bottle of 10w fork oil cost $24. Well worth it.
What a good step by step tutorial. I’m thinking about one of these bikes, after loosing my monster due to dog vs front wheel. Your review about the bikes purpose and my thoughts. Are spot on anyway for now I will get over my injuries.
Thanks for this video the laid out of this bike is similar to nc700 what I have, highly helpful.
If I ever get the courage to do this I will be fitting rubber gaitors to protect the forks and seals. I would always want my bikes to have them fitted as standard.
C Cooper - not a big fan of fork gaiters. Used to have them on road and trail bikes in the 70’s. The problem is they are not totally water or dust proof (they have a breather hole to allow them to compress and expand).
So if you don’t remove them and clean and wd40 the forks regularly you get more damage to the forks and seals than not having them.
Your how to videos are excellent. Thank you for sharing.
Wow, you make it look so easy!
Roger Perrett - well it pretty much is unless you want to tear down the forks and remove all the components - which I don’t think is necessary for a simple oil change.
Gday mate came across this video again and realized you have had that measuring cup for a while as i have a yellow one the same which i inherited from my father who had it for decades still use it today they dont make them like that anymore .
crispernator - ha! Good spotting. Yes it’s very old. Couldn’t tell you when I bought it but it must be about 40 years old.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff yea i am 60 now and my father had it for years now hes gone i have it who knows how long it will last maybe forever
Thanks, very useful. And about the shock absorver? Too much hassle/difficult, or not much needed? No videos on YT how DIY for the stock cb500x absorver...
Superb sir. You are a master.
Detailed informative video. Thank you.
,
I have been watching your channel for quite some time now, and I learned a lot about how to take care of my bike.
I do have a question though, wouldn't it be easier and faster to just open the bolts of the breaks and siphon it out then to remove the whole breaks?
Sincerely Shai Laslo, Israel
hi i want to ask a bottle is ok ipone 10w and how many grams of its fork
Just a thought - when the fork leg is taken out, you pump the leg to get all the oil out. So when you refill with fresh oil do you give the leg a few pumps to remove air from the lower leg ? BTW just fitted the YSS rear shock. It makes a whole load of difference to the rear road handling. Cheers m’Dear
Good question. Yes. Definitely have to pump when refilling. I add about half, give it a few pumps and you see the level go down significantly. Then I add the rest till I’ve got the desired air gap.
Yet another great video 😎
hey. how you doing? one question, why loosing the upper caps in the first place? anything particular? thanks
Marco
lol no need to answer that, just moved towards 1:50, three seconds right after asking this question and noticed why:
So that i dont struggle doing it afterwards! Thanks. Will keep this here in case anyone else has the same question ans sees it :) Cheers from Portugal
Very helpfull video, but can you Tell me how much oil I need to replace in one fork and which viscosity ?
Adrian Sudoł - I think I made it clear in the video that I replaced the same as I drained out.
The weight I used was 10 as shown on the bottle.
Thanks. very nice job and explanation.
Thanks, very useful!
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the video. But I wonder the reason why you changed the fork oil. Isnt it too early . Or you tried to change the character of front suspension? and used different type of suspension oil?
Bulent Berksan - I’m anal retentive ! And while it was theoretically too early to change, the oil was dirty.
10W end 15W?oil grade?
Bulent Berksan - 10w
thank you again for the video. I did this a year ago, I've ridden 12K km since then and one seal is leaking. Do I also have to change the oil or is it not really necessary for now? I'd like to save the money :D
Try cleaning the seal with a “seal mate” before changing seals. This often fixes the leak. I’ve done it myself on my bike 40,000km ago and the seals are still going strong at 74,000km
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thanks, I tried it and it looks good for now :) I don't have the SealMate but I cut it myself out of some plastic trash. I'm riding quite a bit tomorrow so I'll see if it works.
Edit: so I think it's a bit better now, but it's still leaking so at some point (probably before my next multi-day tour) I will need to change it.
Very nice vid, how much oil do you use for one fork? In ML please? I cant see in the video. Thanks a lot
sirilika - as I didn’t have workshop manuals at the time I replaced the same amount I drained out. I used just less than one litre for each bike.
Honda NC750X Stuff thanks man.
@@sirilika514ml for leg or 16oz for leg.
I felt 514ml each leg it is too much, and the suspension doesn't work properly not sure why.. However with 400ml each leg it seems working perfect.
@@jorgeivan4636 my 16 oz bottle also calls it 473 ml.
Great video.
2:00 what is this white detail? is it a non-original spare part? where to find it or how to make it? is there an advantage over a standard spare part
It’s the standard spacer (sits on top of the spring) in the 500X. The NC has steel spacers
Helpful Video, but why didn't you change the oil seal as well? So you have to remove the forks again .
Rgds from Germany
Andreas Schweizer - no need to change any seals at this stage. But it would be good if you posted a video of how it’s done. Thanks.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Very good video, as always! Many thanks. My fork is leaking oil now and I need to change the seals. Which manual do you use? Or do you not use any? Would be great to have a video on that, indeed. Have a good one. Cherio.
mikahorst - before you change your seals try cleaning them. Many times cleaning is all they need. Have a look at this or similar
ua-cam.com/video/NR8GYeVHc0Q/v-deo.html
Manual ? If you join the Honda NC750X owners group there is a manual in the files section.
@@mensvanguard1390 the same here :D
So the Front forks are the same as the 500 x ( does this mean rear shock set up the same ) if this is the case may be able to put the off Kit on from the 500 X Rally raid bike ?
good question
Excellent
Wow, the oil looked like that with 24.000 km, i am embarrassed to admit i haven't changed mine, on my cb500x , and i am approaching 50.000 km ......
Much embarrassed too ! Only done it for the first time at 100 000 KM on my CBF1000... The change on riding has been impressive
Too dark. Please use extra light next time