Good work Bob. Same-same... I start with one line and a corner point (squarest straight wall). Mark out 3 from the corner along the line, 4 in the 90 direction and swing an arc where it should be. Go to the 3 and swing an arc to the 4 @ 5, where they cross is my other line at 90. Snap the chalk line down. Its great how quick you present the info and easy it is to understand. Its good that trades can get the information out there to help others. Sharing information is the path to immortality!
Great video! Watching this was much better than any written version that I've ever read. This is by far the best explanation of this method that I've seen!
Thank you so much for this handy advice. I have a large basement and was very concerned about making the walls straight. This is so helpful. Thanks for posting, keep it up!
Thanks for the tips. I am planning to finish my basement I did not know how to square the walls. Excellent idea. I appreciate your detailed explanation
The air-space behind the framing and foundation wall is important so the insulation that is put in wall cavity does not touch the foundation wall lessening the chance of moisture build-up on back of insulation+++Bob
If you are asking about the blocking to hold the top plates, just nailing them in would be fine, I put them 24 inches on center and usually lat them flat. that is the 3 1/2 inch side down. I also make sure I have blocking at all corners to catch plates from both sides. Hope this helped +++Bob
@podgytube I see your point,however generally, the surface of the concrete closest to the foundation wall is usually the most horizontal/level area of basement due to the slab sitting on the level footer. That being said in more extreme cases this too need be a consideration. Even garage floors have at least two decent corners to work from, Thanks for pointing out my ommision,Alot of people read these posts and this will help get the word out+++Bob
Obviously 8FT 2 IN however garage floors are not generally poured level so you may have to put bottom and top plate up first and custom measure studs to fit floor slope+++Bob
I understand your dilemma.When working in any basement but particularly an old one you really have to take your time to make sure your lay-out is the best fit.This means taking existing conditions that may not totally be accurate and make a judgment call as to what will be good.The main point I am trying to make is take the existing conditions make a good decision once you do, stick with that decision throe balance of project.If you do a separate layout for each room you will have a mess===Bob
Hi, Bob, great advise, I used the 3 4 5 - 6 8 10 all the time, and your right about how important it is, you look out for the next guy(cabinet guys and tile guys) and they do apreciate it, my builder swore the trim guys give him better bids when I frame for that reason alone, especially when they make shelves for closets cause thats where it shows whether your frame is square or not,
I never heard of the 3/4/5 method but I have heard of the Pythagorean Theorem, which, is what the 3/4/5 method is. a^2 + b^2 = c^2. I have used this formula as a DIYer. Using this formula will also help you square a corner in the event you do not have a lot of room. If you need to do it in inches instead.
nice, thanks. I work on cars but want to work on my house. I remember the pythagorean therom lol that's awesome, I know how to square it up dwn there and where to start. good deal
I am starting a basement project with concrete block foundation. I will be using a 2" XPS foam board glued against the concrete and framing in 2x4 wall against XPS. Should the measurements still come from the concrete or should they start from the XPS after they are installed? Thanks
What if you don't want to quite build up to the floor joists? The ceiling in the basement is a mess and it's manufactured home with steel joists. Can I just build a small room up close to the ceiling and put a drop ceiling in?
Even though I am sure your superior math skills may come in handy under certain situations in this case may just be a bit overkill and time wasteful. K.I.S.S Is usually the better way to go. Thanks for the post! +++Bob
Yes, but I see now, that the floor can be leveled. So you video only looked at the situation from the perspective of square corners but if the floor is not level then you have another poor outcome lining up. I have a porch like that, that I want to enclose but it's nearly impossible to create stud walls when the floors and ceilings are not straight. 90 Degree corners are not enough.
you shifted the diagram. I thought the chalk lines ran vertically, ceiling to floor, (if you "measure in from" as you says at 1:25) you would snap lines vertically, no? But then how can they meet in the corner as you say at 1:40? Can you explain? I understand the 345 method, but I won't proceed with glaring questions in my head and a compromised understanding. Thanks
Considering this is just a simpleton's method for applying the Pythagorean Theorum: a² + b² = c² , c being the hypotenuse. It is best to invest in a calculator, measure the FULL length of each wall, which are "a" and "b", punch in the numbers and get the exact "c" , as the "3-4-5 method" is not much better than using a framing square.
Paul Mazurek Interesting...building code in my area requires Pressure Treated Lumber on the floor plates. BTW: My sill plates that are on top of my poured concrete foundation are also pressure treated. Arsenic was removed from pressure treated lumber a few years ago, primarily because of all the wood play structures being made from it and potential health problems with kids. Our area had several parks that had to get rid of the structure (some were two years old) and had to have them torn down and rebuilt with new materials that were arsenic free.
Good work Bob. Same-same... I start with one line and a corner point (squarest straight wall). Mark out 3 from the corner along the line, 4 in the 90 direction and swing an arc where it should be. Go to the 3 and swing an arc to the 4 @ 5, where they cross is my other line at 90. Snap the chalk line down. Its great how quick you present the info and easy it is to understand. Its good that trades can get the information out there to help others. Sharing information is the path to immortality!
Great video!
Watching this was much better than any written version that I've ever read.
This is by far the best explanation of this method that I've seen!
Thank you so much for this handy advice. I have a large basement and was very concerned about making the walls straight. This is so helpful. Thanks for posting, keep it up!
wow. really helpful and clear. hadn't even thought about that before.
Thanks for the tips. I am planning to finish my basement I did not know how to square the walls. Excellent idea. I appreciate your detailed explanation
no gimmicks, Bobby rules!
Very good advice! Glad I found this video, thank you.
The air-space behind the framing and foundation wall is important so the insulation that is put in wall cavity does not touch the foundation wall lessening the chance of moisture build-up on back of insulation+++Bob
nice vid thank you so much Bob. I learned a lot...
Love the video!
Bob's no nonsense approach makes the videos very helpful before I start a project!
Paperboy45
amazing video! thank you !
I've been building over 20 years and I'm still surprised at how many people have never heard of the 3/4/5 method.
Video got cool and informative tips.
Good Video...
thanx for sharing the info..
good job keep it up thanks
If you are asking about the blocking to hold the top plates, just nailing them in would be fine, I put them 24 inches on center and usually lat them flat. that is the 3 1/2 inch side down. I also make sure I have blocking at all corners to catch plates from both sides. Hope this helped +++Bob
@podgytube I see your point,however generally, the surface of the concrete closest to the foundation wall is usually the most horizontal/level area of basement due to the slab sitting on the level footer. That being said in more extreme cases this too need be a consideration. Even garage floors have at least two decent corners to work from, Thanks for pointing out my ommision,Alot of people read these posts and this will help get the word out+++Bob
Good Tips. Thanks!
Obviously 8FT 2 IN however garage floors are not generally poured level so you may have to put bottom and top plate up first and custom measure studs to fit floor slope+++Bob
Your welcome,good luck with your project!---Bob
I appreciate the extra effort to ensure the importance of a square corner... becoming a subscriber due to your detailed approach?
I understand your dilemma.When working in any basement but particularly an old one you really have to take your time to make sure your lay-out is the best fit.This means taking existing conditions that may not totally be accurate and make a judgment call as to what will be good.The main point I am trying to make is take the existing conditions make a good decision once you do, stick with that decision throe balance of project.If you do a separate layout for each room you will have a mess===Bob
Hi, Bob, great advise, I used the 3 4 5 - 6 8 10 all the time, and your right about how important it is, you look out for the next guy(cabinet guys and tile guys) and they do apreciate it, my builder swore the trim guys give him better bids when I frame for that reason alone, especially when they make shelves for closets cause thats where it shows whether your frame is square or not,
Somewhat expensive for casual use,yet simple and effective I can appreciate that.+++Bob How much was you laser square?
Pretty smart fellow that "Pythagorean"===Bob
@jmmac31 You need to add blocks between the joist. +++Bob
I never heard of the 3/4/5 method but I have heard of the Pythagorean Theorem, which, is what the 3/4/5 method is. a^2 + b^2 = c^2.
I have used this formula as a DIYer. Using this formula will also help you square a corner in the event you do not have a lot of room. If you need to do it in inches instead.
nice, thanks. I work on cars but want to work on my house. I remember the pythagorean therom lol that's awesome, I know how to square it up dwn there and where to start. good deal
I am starting a basement project with concrete block foundation. I will be using a 2" XPS foam board glued against the concrete and framing in 2x4 wall against XPS. Should the measurements still come from the concrete or should they start from the XPS after they are installed? Thanks
What if you don't want to quite build up to the floor joists? The ceiling in the basement is a mess and it's manufactured home with steel joists. Can I just build a small room up close to the ceiling and put a drop ceiling in?
Just by nailing them in or should i get joist hangers? And should they be 18" O.C.?
have you ever done any work with insulated concrete forms?
Are you talking about the wall framing? +++Bob
Even though I am sure your superior math skills may come in handy under certain situations in this case may just be a bit overkill and time wasteful. K.I.S.S Is usually the better way to go. Thanks for the post! +++Bob
am trying to search for wood framing.. but it seems like youtube has none.. any idea where to find such clips ??
regards
Why do you have a space between the foundation wall and new wall stud?
@cheshstyles Not sure if I got all that .let me think about it, +++Bob
Measurements come from foam.+++Bob
Yes, but I see now, that the floor can be leveled. So you video only looked at the situation from the perspective of square corners but if the floor is not level then you have another poor outcome lining up. I have a porch like that, that I want to enclose but it's nearly impossible to create stud walls when the floors and ceilings are not straight. 90 Degree corners are not enough.
you shifted the diagram. I thought the chalk lines ran vertically, ceiling to floor, (if you "measure in from" as you says at 1:25) you would snap lines vertically, no? But then how can they meet in the corner as you say at 1:40? Can you explain? I understand the 345 method, but I won't proceed with glaring questions in my head and a compromised understanding. Thanks
What do you do if your floor is not level?
Considering this is just a simpleton's method for applying the Pythagorean Theorum: a² + b² = c² , c being the hypotenuse. It is best to invest in a calculator, measure the FULL length of each wall, which are "a" and "b", punch in the numbers and get the exact "c" , as the "3-4-5 method" is not much better than using a framing square.
No pressure treated lumber inside the house there are still pressure treated lumber out there that contains arsenic .
Paul Mazurek Interesting...building code in my area requires Pressure Treated Lumber on the floor plates. BTW: My sill plates that are on top of my poured concrete foundation are also pressure treated. Arsenic was removed from pressure treated lumber a few years ago, primarily because of all the wood play structures being made from it and potential health problems with kids. Our area had several parks that had to get rid of the structure (some were two years old) and had to have them torn down and rebuilt with new materials that were arsenic free.
No not personally +++Bob
Be careful not to miter your beams. Watch My Money Pit, parts 1-3.
I have to give you a lesson about concrete and moisture