I am just starting my basement project and stumbled across your videos. I can't believe how good they are. I want to thank you and let you know that you are really helping people like me.
Sage advice sir! From the first video --- with help from Pythagoras --- to the tips about plumb-bob alignment and PRE-water-proofing, I can attest from expensive experience this is all good practice. Excellent video and channel!
I have done it with both materials. I am kinda used to working with wood but metal studs can be alot more forgiving as far as fitting from floor to ceiling. with metal studs you also need to add alot more blocking in areas that need additional support around doors and cabinet blocking.Pros and cons to both===Bob
I love the information you gave about how not to make the studs to long. You would have to make the stud really long but I've still seen people crack tile floors from doing this. Only complaint I have is I would like for the video to be a slight bit more direct. An exsample would be the part about how to mark the floors... Anyways that's beside the point. Great work as usual Bob, this was a good one.
@HomeRemodelWorkshop Yeah, I hear ya on the fumes. I am planning for hard wired smoke detectors throughout the building, with a couple battery backups for good measure. Where I live there is no inspection for any work done within the existing building, so I'm sort of on my own. That's why your advice means so much. Keep up the good work! :)
The wall is stood up, set on the bottom plate and the top meets the ceiling marks. Shims make up any gaps and I shoot with long screws into the joists above. I put 2" foam in the back of the stud bays and use expanding foam around the edges to create a vapor barrier seal. I get an R30 wall that way. Any drawbacks you can see to this system? It's all above grade. Any vapor in the wall has a route to the outside around the unsealed sheets and through the block/hardiplank siding.
@TheForwardGaze Treated wood is used in homes anyplace the wood is against concrete, What they use to treat the wood with is highly regulated and changes have been made from when arsenic used to be put in it.+++Bob
I also use one,rattle in basement would drive me crazy thou!LOL--Bob thanks for post,actually palm nailer would be a good video fot those who are afraid of framing nailers but are still,lets say,hammer challenged!
@saboorstress Have installed barrier both ways and will never install vapor barrier on concrete walls ever again!(MOLD ISSUES!) If you choose to install a barrier at all(Not that I recommend doing so) I would use paper barrier on heated side of walls. I believe that allowing walls to breath and not installing one at all is best option if your local building code allows for barrier free application. +++Bob
Bob, some feedback if you would? I've got a house with concrete block perimeter walls. I'm insulating on the inside with sheet foam, then a stud wall inside of that. I passed on the "fit each stud individually" method, it would drive me crazy. :) I've opted to lay down my marks and install a bottom plate, then build my wall to the height of the shortest gap between floor and ceiling. (continued)
@L2rsSwc I can only advise that you be very confident in your fix with-out consulting a basement leak pro before I would continue, maybe even test your fix with a hose or sprinkler that would represent the worst weather you could expect to receive +++Bob Don't overdo your test if you decide to do so.
hi, thank you for the video. i have a question. when do you apply the moisture barrier? is it before framing directly on the concrete wall or on top of the insulation? thanks.
Thanks so much! My husband and I are planning on refinishing our basement-- Question--we live in NE Ohio-- should we put plastic on walls before framing? We Have insulation half way down the wall, should we remove it and start over? Thanks, Trish
You are right to not make that kind of investment until the water problem has been resolved.Since the source/sources of the water issue/issues could originate from your roof to the grading and possibly even the water level below ground around your structure, I suggest investing some of your remodeling dollars getting it assessed by a pro in foundation repairs. This may slow the start of your project,but better safe than sorry+++Bob
Below grade I would not use a vapor barrier,too much opportunity for condensation and mold to develop. Allowing walls to "BREATH" will make for less moisture to be held in wall,however some old building codes require it. If you are getting an inspection it could fail+++Bob
I've watched all of your other basement remodeling videos, and the ones that relate to the job even generally, but I'm not sure my basement walls are in the condition to remodel. They're flaky and if I touch them even slightly, a large portion of it falls onto the floor in a heap of dust. I don't want to put up studs and dry wall until I know it's "safe." Should I destroy and re-cement the wall before putting up drywall?
@dougdobbs As long as your 2'' foam board and expanding foam is approved for use by the building department, then it sounds ok to me. If ,god forbid, there is ever a fire inside your home you need to be sure the gasses from the foam does'nt kill you before the smoke and fire would. +++Bob
I am just starting my basement project and stumbled across your videos. I can't believe how good they are. I want to thank you and let you know that you are really helping people like me.
Thank you so much. These videos are priceless, and your instructions are very well done. If you are not teaching this material, you should.
dude! your teaching ability is incredible. I want to build a house so bad and you are the guy to teach me! Keep up the videos. Great work!!!
Quality material is a must! If you can hand pick and deliver your material yourself it is a definite advantage. Thanks for the post+++Bob
Great work. This was very helpful. Good tip about the foundation cracks...I found a couple and didn't think about that before.
thank you very much Bob for your prompt reply.
Sage advice sir!
From the first video --- with help from Pythagoras --- to the tips about plumb-bob alignment and PRE-water-proofing, I can attest from expensive experience this is all good practice.
Excellent video and channel!
I have done it with both materials. I am kinda used to working with wood but metal studs can be alot more forgiving as far as fitting from floor to ceiling. with metal studs you also need to add alot more blocking in areas that need additional support around doors and cabinet blocking.Pros and cons to both===Bob
This is what I was afraid of. Yep, better safe than sorry. I'll look around for some foundation repair people in my area.
Thanks!
I love the information you gave about how not to make the studs to long. You would have to make the stud really long but I've still seen people crack tile floors from doing this. Only complaint I have is I would like for the video to be a slight bit more direct. An exsample would be the part about how to mark the floors... Anyways that's beside the point. Great work as usual Bob, this was a good one.
Iv'e got a Senco Palm Nailer, which I find invaluable for framing work. It drives in just about any size nails and works like an air hammer.
You are very welcome,hope you found it useful---Bob
great video ! thankyou
Thanks for this!
thanks again bob
@HomeRemodelWorkshop Yeah, I hear ya on the fumes. I am planning for hard wired smoke detectors throughout the building, with a couple battery backups for good measure. Where I live there is no inspection for any work done within the existing building, so I'm sort of on my own. That's why your advice means so much. Keep up the good work! :)
The wall is stood up, set on the bottom plate and the top meets the ceiling marks. Shims make up any gaps and I shoot with long screws into the joists above. I put 2" foam in the back of the stud bays and use expanding foam around the edges to create a vapor barrier seal. I get an R30 wall that way. Any drawbacks you can see to this system?
It's all above grade. Any vapor in the wall has a route to the outside around the unsealed sheets and through the block/hardiplank siding.
@TheForwardGaze Treated wood is used in homes anyplace the wood is against concrete, What they use to treat the wood with is highly regulated and changes have been made from when arsenic used to be put in it.+++Bob
I also use one,rattle in basement would drive me crazy thou!LOL--Bob thanks for post,actually palm nailer would be a good video fot those who are afraid of framing nailers but are still,lets say,hammer challenged!
@saboorstress Have installed barrier both ways and will never install vapor barrier on concrete walls ever again!(MOLD ISSUES!) If you choose to install a barrier at all(Not that I recommend doing so) I would use paper barrier on heated side of walls. I believe that allowing walls to breath and not installing one at all is best option if your local building code allows for barrier free application. +++Bob
Bob, some feedback if you would? I've got a house with concrete block perimeter walls. I'm insulating on the inside with sheet foam, then a stud wall inside of that. I passed on the "fit each stud individually" method, it would drive me crazy. :) I've opted to lay down my marks and install a bottom plate, then build my wall to the height of the shortest gap between floor and ceiling. (continued)
@4x12 No need for treated unless it directly contacts concrete. +++Bob
@L2rsSwc I can only advise that you be very confident in your fix with-out consulting a basement leak pro before I would continue, maybe even test your fix with a hose or sprinkler that would represent the worst weather you could expect to receive +++Bob Don't overdo your test if you decide to do so.
hi,
thank you for the video. i have a question. when do you apply the moisture barrier? is it before framing directly on the concrete wall or on top of the insulation? thanks.
Thanks so much! My husband and I are planning on refinishing our basement-- Question--we live in NE Ohio-- should we put plastic on walls before framing? We Have insulation half way down the wall, should we remove it and start over? Thanks, Trish
What do you think about blu wood?
You are right to not make that kind of investment until the water problem has been resolved.Since the source/sources of the water issue/issues could originate from your roof to the grading and possibly even the water level below ground around your structure, I suggest investing some of your remodeling dollars getting it assessed by a pro in foundation repairs. This may slow the start of your project,but better safe than sorry+++Bob
Below grade I would not use a vapor barrier,too much opportunity for condensation and mold to develop. Allowing walls to "BREATH" will make for less moisture to be held in wall,however some old building codes require it. If you are getting an inspection it could fail+++Bob
I've watched all of your other basement remodeling videos, and the ones that relate to the job even generally, but I'm not sure my basement walls are in the condition to remodel. They're flaky and if I touch them even slightly, a large portion of it falls onto the floor in a heap of dust. I don't want to put up studs and dry wall until I know it's "safe." Should I destroy and re-cement the wall before putting up drywall?
Would have loved an actual basement job to get clips from unfortunately dont have one on my schedual!---Bob
@dougdobbs As long as your 2'' foam board and expanding foam is approved for use by the building department, then it sounds ok to me. If ,god forbid, there is ever a fire inside your home you need to be sure the gasses from the foam does'nt kill you before the smoke and fire would. +++Bob
Do you live in a warm climate? I thought expansion spaces in basement walls were code for most areas.
You can come remodel mine! :P