I have a very similar set up. I also got the stripped upper. Eotech , surefire muzzle device with RC2, surefire light, with same trigger. Mine is flat. No law folder. Would like one but concerned on longevity of it. Palmetto M4 lower. I have more expensive AR’s but the MK18 is my favorite probably. Debating on getting the magnifier. Good video!
do you have any lock up problem with the keymo mount? My coworker (we work at a gun shop) is telling me to stay away since he has terrible experiences with taking them on and off. How long do you keep your can on after you shoot it? would it effect any lock up if you didnt take it off ur gun after shooting it?
I personally never had a problem with the lock up. It is important to note though, that I always take the can off like 10 minutes before I leave the range (pour water on it to cool it off). I can see possible issues arising with the lock up if you keep it on for extreme periods of time, but me personally I only have my can on when I'm at the range, and the keymo adapter, hardly have carbon on it. All my carbon is built up on the prongs itself. But yes, to my knowledge carbon will build up if you don't take it off after shooting it.
@@Thatblackkid808 thanks this was very helpful. Do you think this is with all suppressor mounts? or do you know of some that prevent this from happening even if the can is left on for long periods of time
@@TheSparkymonster Rearden/Q plan b mounts are really great. They utilize a simple taper design which does not require any locking mechanism to keep the suppressor secure in alignment with the bore. The taper also prevents any carbon whatsoever from reaching the threads which prevents carbon lock. It is a very nice suppressor mount and also quite short and lightweight. It is only a tiny bit longer than a direct thread mount. Check out Rearden, Focustripp and Hop both have very good videos about these mounts. Griffin also makes some good mounts. I think if you can avoid keymo you should. It's not necessarily that keymo is bad but there are simply better options available.
@@Thatblackkid808 Not my gun/can so you do whatever you want but its definitely not good practice to frequently pour water on your suppressor to cool it off. You're quenching the steel and doing so repeatedly will eventually cause stress fractures. I have seen this occur with steel much beefier than what a suppressor is made of. Specifically, I've seen this occur with CNC tool holders which utilize a heat shrink in order to rigidly mount various machine tools. We have a special machine that heats the tool holder up to very high temperatures(will glow red hot if you leave the machine going too long) within just a few seconds in order for us to place a tool within the holder. Once the tool is in the holder we hit a button to quench the holder in coolant and then it comes out of the quencher and we mount the whole contraption into our cnc machine. Normally its fine, but if the tool holder is old and has been quenched many times before eventually the collar will start to develop cracks. What you're effectively doing is altering the original heat treat of the steel every time you quench it with water. This isn't debatable, that's what you're doing. This will eventually cause cracks to form on the outside or weld failures due to the fact that steel expands when hot and when quenched it rapidly cools and contracts but only the areas that are directly touched by the water. The rest of the metal, in that instant, is still very hot and thus it does not contract evenly. So, you're likely to see a weld failure where the baffles are welded together or a crack in the tube of your suppressor has a tube(most modern suppressors are tubeless). Keep in mind the suppressor was heat treated a specific way for a reason. The manufacturer knows that it is a welded metal tube that will be exposed to high temps and high pressure. By altering the heat treat of the steel you are putting yourself and your suppressor at risk. The stress fractures may or may not be visible to the naked eye but eventually they will form. What I'd suggest is to invest in a good nomex welding glove or a mechanix suppressor cover. They're like $12 on Amazon. If you don't believe that what I am telling you is true I'd encourage you to research the subject yourself or contact the manufacturer. I am just trying to help prolong the life of your suppressor because I know they're expensive. If you're just pouring water on it when it is somewhat warm it won't be an issue but in that context I don't really know why you'd bother pouring water on it anyway. But if you're pouring water on it when it is HOT--like hot enough to burn your skin, then the water is going to cause damage eventually. You do whatever you want though.
You have 8,000 rnds on a aero bolt out of a mk18? Have you had to replace anything? With how violent that gas system is on a 10.3 that’s really impressive!
hot. im running a pretty similar build, sbr'd with a t2 and a holosun ls321g for nods. also yeah definitely grab a b5 enhanced sopmod they are way better, and yes brownells stripped dd uppers are actually DD surplus uppers. this is my alt account but you can check out my build here if you want :) youtube.com/@knights-armo?si=kFDdljLkN8wWKMtA
Can’t argue with this guy he had a reason for everything he put on so that’s good enough to justify it.
Nice MK18. The backup irons definitely make sense on this setup. I think Eotech should really come up with an auto-on feature.
Good video keep up the great work
I have a very similar set up. I also got the stripped upper. Eotech , surefire muzzle device with RC2, surefire light, with same trigger. Mine is flat. No law folder. Would like one but concerned on longevity of it. Palmetto M4 lower.
I have more expensive AR’s but the MK18 is my favorite probably. Debating on getting the magnifier. Good video!
Nice! The law folder is great! Highly recommend one.
Good shootin!
Aye I’m a member at that range too 🤙🏻
Not bad my dude. I’d suggest picking up an HRF RCM magwell for this bad boy to really finish her up, you’ll love it
Yeah I may add it back on there!
That range looks super familiar
@@dylanmercer122 yeah it’s Range 66
Nice its just overgassed try a heavier buffer and a sprinco red spring
do you have any lock up problem with the keymo mount? My coworker (we work at a gun shop) is telling me to stay away since he has terrible experiences with taking them on and off. How long do you keep your can on after you shoot it? would it effect any lock up if you didnt take it off ur gun after shooting it?
I personally never had a problem with the lock up. It is important to note though, that I always take the can off like 10 minutes before I leave the range (pour water on it to cool it off). I can see possible issues arising with the lock up if you keep it on for extreme periods of time, but me personally I only have my can on when I'm at the range, and the keymo adapter, hardly have carbon on it. All my carbon is built up on the prongs itself. But yes, to my knowledge carbon will build up if you don't take it off after shooting it.
@@Thatblackkid808 thanks this was very helpful. Do you think this is with all suppressor mounts? or do you know of some that prevent this from happening even if the can is left on for long periods of time
@@TheSparkymonster Rearden/Q plan b mounts are really great. They utilize a simple taper design which does not require any locking mechanism to keep the suppressor secure in alignment with the bore. The taper also prevents any carbon whatsoever from reaching the threads which prevents carbon lock. It is a very nice suppressor mount and also quite short and lightweight. It is only a tiny bit longer than a direct thread mount.
Check out Rearden, Focustripp and Hop both have very good videos about these mounts. Griffin also makes some good mounts. I think if you can avoid keymo you should. It's not necessarily that keymo is bad but there are simply better options available.
@@Thatblackkid808 Not my gun/can so you do whatever you want but its definitely not good practice to frequently pour water on your suppressor to cool it off. You're quenching the steel and doing so repeatedly will eventually cause stress fractures. I have seen this occur with steel much beefier than what a suppressor is made of. Specifically, I've seen this occur with CNC tool holders which utilize a heat shrink in order to rigidly mount various machine tools. We have a special machine that heats the tool holder up to very high temperatures(will glow red hot if you leave the machine going too long) within just a few seconds in order for us to place a tool within the holder. Once the tool is in the holder we hit a button to quench the holder in coolant and then it comes out of the quencher and we mount the whole contraption into our cnc machine. Normally its fine, but if the tool holder is old and has been quenched many times before eventually the collar will start to develop cracks.
What you're effectively doing is altering the original heat treat of the steel every time you quench it with water. This isn't debatable, that's what you're doing. This will eventually cause cracks to form on the outside or weld failures due to the fact that steel expands when hot and when quenched it rapidly cools and contracts but only the areas that are directly touched by the water. The rest of the metal, in that instant, is still very hot and thus it does not contract evenly. So, you're likely to see a weld failure where the baffles are welded together or a crack in the tube of your suppressor has a tube(most modern suppressors are tubeless). Keep in mind the suppressor was heat treated a specific way for a reason. The manufacturer knows that it is a welded metal tube that will be exposed to high temps and high pressure. By altering the heat treat of the steel you are putting yourself and your suppressor at risk. The stress fractures may or may not be visible to the naked eye but eventually they will form.
What I'd suggest is to invest in a good nomex welding glove or a mechanix suppressor cover. They're like $12 on Amazon. If you don't believe that what I am telling you is true I'd encourage you to research the subject yourself or contact the manufacturer. I am just trying to help prolong the life of your suppressor because I know they're expensive. If you're just pouring water on it when it is somewhat warm it won't be an issue but in that context I don't really know why you'd bother pouring water on it anyway. But if you're pouring water on it when it is HOT--like hot enough to burn your skin, then the water is going to cause damage eventually.
You do whatever you want though.
Yeah, I think its with most suppressor mounts tbh
I Have the same gun.. never fired it… I have my tan eotech in layaway…
You have 8,000 rnds on a aero bolt out of a mk18? Have you had to replace anything? With how violent that gas system is on a 10.3 that’s really impressive!
Correct, I haven’t replaced anything on the bolt yet, still runs like a charm.
Aero bcgs are like the lottery sometimes. I have 3-4K on one with normal wear and nothing broken yet
Why are comments being deleted?
I blocked some random internet troll lol
@@Thatblackkid808 ah ok, yeah there sure are a lot of haters on here ….
🔥🔥🥷
Wait stripped aero lowers are $200 now?
Mine was a completed aero lower I got for $200 2 years ago. But yeah you can find cheap lowers almost anywhere, even if they’re blem.
@@Thatblackkid808 oh ok that makes more sense nice build btw
@@yeshua1176 thanks man!
Don’t get a Unity lower, it makes you celebrate pride.
hot. im running a pretty similar build, sbr'd with a t2 and a holosun ls321g for nods. also yeah definitely grab a b5 enhanced sopmod they are way better, and yes brownells stripped dd uppers are actually DD surplus uppers. this is my alt account but you can check out my build here if you want :) youtube.com/@knights-armo?si=kFDdljLkN8wWKMtA