you could have left the dc from the pid controller directly to the ssr's and then connected your switch to a contactor to break the connection to the elements. Then you would have been able to use the same line and neutral for both the indicator light and the coil of the contactor.
I second the notion for contactors. Also mount your 120vac breaker so it can be accessed from outside the panel. And add an external shut-off box for your main power feed.
If your garage panel is a sub panel make sure that the ground and the neutral wires are separate. In other words you cannot have ground on same bars in a sub panel only on the main panel can the grounds and neutrals be on the same bar.
@@galtsgarage5775 Problem i saw with the ground is that you're using the ground of the power wire(plug) to carry current from your lights and fan back to your breacker box. should have used 4 wire cord. (L1,L2,N,G). technically shouldn't hurt anything, by code there should never been current on a ground
@@josephpatterson2722 I had to go back and look at it I see what you are saying now. The ground coming in through the plug that runs from the panel is actually hooked up to the neutral bus bar in the main panel, and my main is bonded. You're probably right that it's not code but it's not bringing amperage to the oven control panel it's acting as a neutral for the L2 power that is powering the fan and lights in the oven.
@@galtsgarage5775 So if you're using it as a neutral, which is what I was referring to (neutral carries current) then there is no means of proper grounding ("proper" grounding is a seperate wire) If anyone were to work on it later they may assume the green is ground and could present a hazard. 100% safety thing, will function properly (the possible problem is that say a wire that has current gets chaffed or loose and is touching the cabinet (its super rare), now the cabinet has voltage potential and if anyone touches it they provide path to ground and get shocked (killed). with a proper ground, when that happens the path is present and it trips the breaker.
Sorry forgot to add this last part......basically if you are using 240v only you can have L1, L2 and ground and be good. If you need 120v as well you have to either convert the 240v with a transformer, or provide a 4 wire system (L1, L2, N and ground)
I used the rail and 6AWG terminals from Auber, the rest are 10-12 AWG and 14AWG terminals. I don't have the receipts for those components anymore unfortunately. I did list the vendors websites in the description though!
My DIN rail is divided into several sections. If you look at the jumpers on the DIN rail components (the orange and grey bars running side to side across the middle) you will be able to tell what the sections are. 2 sections are 60 Amps each (1 leg each of 120V to make the 240V circuit) and one is 15A (the section to the right of the 15A breaker on the DIN rail). DIN stands for Deutsches Institut Normung which I think is a standard in Canada too. All 3 circuits on the DIN are 120V, 2 are 60A and one is 15A. I hope this helps!
I have the same PID and timer and have been looking for a long time to find someone that has an actual wiring diagram for connecting them to run oven for cerakote. Did you draw one ?
I started to draw a wiring diagram for the whole thing and after page three I realized that as simple as the wiring is there is a TON of it and tapped out...
@@galtsgarage5775 the only connections I am interested in are on the pid and timer . As in 7- SSR , 8- Neutral 9-alarm the rest I think I have figured thanks
That's a fair point, in my defense it's that untidy because I had to pull some stuff apart to fix the heating element indicator lamps, wire the alarm and replace the thermocouple. I wanted the wires easy to trace for the walk through. I'll get get the cable management under control this week. I agree though, it's a mess in there.
You should never run a common (neutral) through a switch instead of the hot lead, if sh1t goes wrong you have power on that circuit all the time when powered up possible making things worse for you and your equipment
Great walk through! I haven't seen the timer before, but I've used a few of the PID/SSR combos. Thanks for all the detail.
Thank you very much, very helpful, the best oven build series I've seen so far 👍
I appreciate it!
Good job. We shared this video (and the previous five parts) on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Thank you I appreciate it!
Greate job. Thanks for useful video
Great video man! please satisfy my OCD and put in an indicator light for the light switch.
I'm not going to lie, it bugs me too.
@@galtsgarage5775
you could have left the dc from the pid controller directly to the ssr's and then connected your switch to a contactor to break the connection to the elements. Then you would have been able to use the same line and neutral for both the indicator light and the coil of the contactor.
I second the notion for contactors.
Also mount your 120vac breaker so it can be accessed from outside the panel.
And add an external shut-off box for your main power feed.
If your garage panel is a sub panel make sure that the ground and the neutral wires are separate. In other words you cannot have ground on same bars in a sub panel only on the main panel can the grounds and neutrals be on the same bar.
I will double check that, I'm pretty sure they are not bonded outside of the main panel.
@@galtsgarage5775 Problem i saw with the ground is that you're using the ground of the power wire(plug) to carry current from your lights and fan back to your breacker box. should have used 4 wire cord. (L1,L2,N,G). technically shouldn't hurt anything, by code there should never been current on a ground
@@josephpatterson2722 I had to go back and look at it I see what you are saying now. The ground coming in through the plug that runs from the panel is actually hooked up to the neutral bus bar in the main panel, and my main is bonded. You're probably right that it's not code but it's not bringing amperage to the oven control panel it's acting as a neutral for the L2 power that is powering the fan and lights in the oven.
@@galtsgarage5775 So if you're using it as a neutral, which is what I was referring to (neutral carries current) then there is no means of proper grounding ("proper" grounding is a seperate wire)
If anyone were to work on it later they may assume the green is ground and could present a hazard. 100% safety thing, will function properly (the possible problem is that say a wire that has current gets chaffed or loose and is touching the cabinet (its super rare), now the cabinet has voltage potential and if anyone touches it they provide path to ground and get shocked (killed). with a proper ground, when that happens the path is present and it trips the breaker.
Sorry forgot to add this last part......basically if you are using 240v only you can have L1, L2 and ground and be good. If you need 120v as well you have to either convert the 240v with a transformer, or provide a 4 wire system (L1, L2, N and ground)
I would like to see the list of items on the din rail
I used the rail and 6AWG terminals from Auber, the rest are 10-12 AWG and 14AWG terminals. I don't have the receipts for those components anymore unfortunately. I did list the vendors websites in the description though!
hello i would like to know how many ampere you have on your rail (dinkle) because i am from canada and i want to find it here the brakettes thank you
My DIN rail is divided into several sections. If you look at the jumpers on the DIN rail components (the orange and grey bars running side to side across the middle) you will be able to tell what the sections are. 2 sections are 60 Amps each (1 leg each of 120V to make the 240V circuit) and one is 15A (the section to the right of the 15A breaker on the DIN rail). DIN stands for Deutsches Institut Normung which I think is a standard in Canada too. All 3 circuits on the DIN are 120V, 2 are 60A and one is 15A. I hope this helps!
@@galtsgarage5775 thank you very much and yes it helps me
Hi again I may have missed a bit of your video but what size of wire do you use for the connections with the lights and the timer
@@mathieubeaulieu4529 I used 14 AWG. You could go with thinner wire though, all of those are pretty low amperage.
@@galtsgarage5775 thank you galts
I have the same PID and timer and have been looking for a long time to find someone that has an actual wiring diagram for connecting them to run oven for cerakote. Did you draw one ?
I started to draw a wiring diagram for the whole thing and after page three I realized that as simple as the wiring is there is a TON of it and tapped out...
@@galtsgarage5775 the only connections I am interested in are on the pid and timer . As in 7- SSR , 8- Neutral 9-alarm the rest I think I have figured thanks
can you provide design plan
Best I can do is the video, sorry.
That’s the untidiest panel wiring I’ve ever seen how would you exspect anyone to fault find that mess
That's a fair point, in my defense it's that untidy because I had to pull some stuff apart to fix the heating element indicator lamps, wire the alarm and replace the thermocouple. I wanted the wires easy to trace for the walk through. I'll get get the cable management under control this week. I agree though, it's a mess in there.
You should never run a common (neutral) through a switch instead of the hot lead, if sh1t goes wrong you have power on that circuit all the time when powered up possible making things worse for you and your equipment