How-to install exterior Wood Window Trim and Horizontal Wood Siding
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- Опубліковано 23 тра 2019
- Instruction on how to install exterior 2x4 trim around a new or old window. In the video, I staple the metal flashing to the head piece then seal the staples when I paint. You can also hold it on the top and place the top siding over the flashing without nailing or stacking it so that you don't add holes to the flashing. There will always be positive and negative comments, I get it. We all have OUR way! Well this is my way, ENJOY!
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From one contractor to another with fifty-two years experience. Great video.
4:00 This is exactly what I was hoping to learn in this video. Thank you for showing it.
Thanks for your teaching. I'm appreciate all these! You are a very good man.
Thanks for posting video, I would suggest flashing tape both under the window and then over the window flange top and sides (not bottom!).
Also, would suggest running the z flashing ¼" long on each side of the top trim and then bending it over the edge. Gives a little additional protection to that trim pc.
Just what I was looking for! Thanx for sharing!
Awesome demonstration. This is just what I was looking for. I have to replace my trim around my windows, but the house has hardy board.
Great job love your work.
Thank you!! I'm DIYing my house. This really really helped me.
Glad I could help!
Very useful tips!! Keep them coming🤟
Justin, thanks for the comment and I have new videos coming soon. Take care.
Thank you so much for posting this. I bought a house that was built in 1984, still has original siding and windows. Unfortunately, the previous owner had vinyl siding slapped on and it is awful. She also had very formal bead board wainscoat with very nice moulding inside, everything covered up the water damage done when the rain gutters separated and the original wood deck wicked up water to the interior floor sills sitting on concrete slab. Luckily my house is very small and one story with even walls. I am in the process of removing the vinyl siding/styrofoam, the original wood siding and the windows. Then I will prep and wrap and flash in new windows and exterior siding, along with new rain gutters and deck overhaul. UGH. In the meantime, I am removing wainscoat, pulling out damaged drywall and batting insulation and everything smelled like mildew. The original windows were never flashed, and no house wrap just tar paper.
Sounds very similar to my house. Doing it right the first time saves money and time in the long run, and of course the headache. I will be doing a very similar rehab as soon as I make the time, hopefully this fall. My single story ranch was built in 78, vinyl siding in the 90's over the existing beat up siding. I wish I could go back and give them the extra labor cost to remove the siding first. Of course I didn't buy the house until 2013 so I inherited the problem. When I get to it I'm guessing I will have to replace some sheathing (after 10 trailer loads of debris comes off the house) and then Ice & water everything before doing cedar siding or shakes. I love the look of cedar & the only thing I like about vinyl is how when installed correctly it is fairly durable. Not putting vinyl back up. What kind of siding are you going to use?
Vinyl siding should be illegal.
Oof. Hopefully you knew about it before you bought the place and were able to buy it for a cheap price. (You can never truly know how bad it is until you start tearing shit down though).
Grks are the best. Make life so much easier haha
Hey Mike, Great video. Question. My local box stores sell 3/8" and 1/2" T1-11 siding. Aside from price, what factors should I consider when choosing one over the other? Is the thicker version used to provide structural strength or is it just a more durable option?
Great video. Made it easy to understand. Could you make a video on exterior door trim?
This is a fantastic video.
Thanks for your comment! Happy New Year!
As a contractor I can guarantee you that the best application is to wet set the trim right next to the window and then wet set the siding coming into the trim. If you flashed and caulked your window and trim properly you'll have 4 barriers between the exterior and framing 👍
And never 45 the trim, it creates a channel for the water to run straight to the window flange and anybody that thinks they can trust a year stamped on a caulk tube is a fool.
If I had a dollar for every job that a homeowner screwed up by not listening, I'd be a wealthy man.
Truth is, doing this work improperly causes mold infestations that are extremely harmful to children and elderly and many adults in between and is to be taken very seriously.
@Jaxx Rocket: DIYer here. What does "wet-set the trim" mean? In a bed of caulk? I need to repair some rotted-out trim. It's spongy where the vertical pieces abut the trim the sits under the window. Our contractors ( back in 1990) put the trim against the window and the cedar siding against the trim. They mitred the trim corners at the top corners and I don't know if they put a bead of caulk along the top and sides. I want to put new trim in, without having to remove the siding, if possible. I can apply lots of caulk and even paint the house-wrap and window edge with Blue Max, if that would help.
@@timromano7085 yes wet set is setting the board into caulking.
The extra caulking is well worth the extra barrier.
Oof. James Hardie installation shows the siding butting up to the trim. That’s how I did my house. It got rid of the gaps behind the trim. But to each his own. Still lols good.
That was a amazing video. Thank you
Would like to see it done with fiber cement siding
thank you for teaching us
When measuring or installing timber moulding calculate the total perimeter of the widow first than add that specific total amount for timber moulding by adding extra required centimetre measurement- example 7.5 cm each side - height and width of a rectangle shape.(4 sided window)
my home currently has lap cedar siding. Windows were installed and siding cut to accomodate trim but the trim is not thick. Is it possible to trim over siding?
I appreciate your video thank you
I am curious, why would you not put J channel on the exterior edge of the trim for the siding to slide into? ( if you were using vinyl) Thank you, and great informative video
Mike, my home was built in 1996 with hardieboard siding. I'm told by a builder that the siding I have is old and mist likely brittle, might even have cement in it so woulc be dufficult to cut cleanly. You mention trim over the siding might be better long-term to avoid wood rot. You didn't show that way on your video, however. Do you have a video about this? You mentioned here that a 1x4 might warp since it's not as thick as a 2x4. Did I understand that correctly? What is the downside of installing trim over my existing siding? Right now my windows are not trimmed, look dated. Thank you!
Is that a framing nailer? I was trying to find a cordless siding nailer but I didn’t think dewalt had one yet.
thanks...
thanks nice
Thanks
What about if you ever wanted to replace that window or any window? The way you trimmed it would make it fairly easy to replace versus running the siding all the way up to the window with the boards over top. Correct?
Putting the trim in first means you can just pull that and replace the entire window frame fairly easy. If you run the siding all the way to the window if you ever have to replace the window frame you will need to cut the siding back about 1 1/2 inches. With the vinyl window you can just replace the window and it frame. Unless you want all new frames.
when the crew cuts my siding around my window should my siding butt up against the window , when they cut the siding they miss cut it and half of my window is about 2 inches off on one side and maybe an inch on one side they jacked up the cuts and they think they can put caulking in and put up trim , is this something i should have them redo
Awesome video! As you stated, normally you use nails rather than screws. I"m building in a high wind area, and using wood lap siding. Would screws be better than nails?
Screws are always better than nails if you can use them. Nails are cheaper and a lot faster to use than screws or bolts, and aren't required to do things to code in most applications. If you're doing a DIY you should always use screws in my opinion, it's worth the extra money.
If you wish to remove / replace the window in the future the only option is at 1:40.
If I install siding all the way to the window and then add the trim over it, is there way to still add the drip cap above the 1x4 trim?
the 2x4 they used has huge knots in it .. is that ok. also we had to use 2x4 cause the windows stuck ou t way to much ugh
How would you address the drip edge on the header of the trim were attached on top of the siding?
With the lap siding at the top of the window, how do you know you won't end up with a one or two inch sliver at the bottom? If you start at the bottom, you might not end up exactly at the top of the window.
Hi! Thanks for the video. Newb here. In addition to the Z flashing you installed, does the interface between the window itself and the top trim need any flashing or form of protection?
Eae, you can lap the paper flashing over the metal flashing as you move up the wall. Remember the flashing starts at the bottom and overlaps as you go up the wall. Take care
@@MRoberson68 thanks for the tip. I am retroactively adding z-flashing to my windows, so I probably have to remove or cut through one siding panel and squeeze the flashing behind it. Suggestions would be super appreciated
Not bad, but yeah flashing needs to be addressed top head board. I agree, 2x4 looks much better with some reveals . I have pulled apart old windows / siding with the 1x trim over them, they never hold up that way, creates bug issues and water traps.
were those 1x4 cement boards? or 1x4 treated wood?
Our contractors in 1990 installed 1-by trim against the window, like your example @1.40 into the video. Then cedar siding abutted the trim. The window trim has rotted out at the bottom where the vertical trim meets the horizontal trim, like you said it could. I am going to be ripping that trim out soon. Is there a way to seal the perimeter of the window with flashing tape or caulk or rubberized paint, which doesn't require the removal of the siding, before I reinstall new trim?
I have had to deal with the same issues.
There are window tapes and caulking's /coatings available to go that route.
Too many to name and each area has their brands.
I suggest a name brand that is popular in your area.
My thinking is,If it is being made and sold all the time in your area then it must work and the contractors must trust the product.
If you use a window tape,I would suggest using the glue or primer that is available with it and a roller to get a good adhesion.
If you use a permeable liquid coating or caulk , I suggest wet setting the trim after the initial coating has cured .
The last one I used was from dow , Google the product dowsil 758.
I used it in a sausage gun for ease of application.
Good luck
@@richardspearsii286 Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated.
Is that a 1" or 1 3/8" flange setback?
Are you hitting studs for the trim?
If that was framed properly with a double plate and header I don't see how he could miss the studs.
How do I apply trim boards on to our house with vinyl siding? Thanks
Vinyl trim.
I like to rabbit out 3/4 of the trim to act like a J. Can also get caulking in there. Works good.
why didn't you use furring strips? trying to understand pros and cons of rainscreen?
If I cannot find 1x4 Pre-primed, what type of wood is recommended? Redwood? Anything else? Thanks.
Azek or similar PVC siding is great, lasts forever and no maintenance. Home depot carries pre primed 1 by and 5/4 pine trim though.
Get a 1x4 common board and prime it.
What about drainage between the tyvek and the siding!! You need air gap of at least 3/8 behind the siding ...and that's one thing that's wrong I could go on for an hour!!!
Hey I seen the same thing? I use a rabbit around the flange, keep a 3/8” gap? Seal the ends?
What’s going on here ?
What's the size of the window length and width?
Can you do a video on window siding that are made of plastic or bendable metal
Uh I believe you need to cut with your Table saw or router a rabbit around your styles/rails to accept the window flange?
Giving the water a clear channel to run down?
I mean that certainly is faster? But being a finish contractor if I caught my guy doing that I would make him/her pull it off and rip the rabbit in it?
Of course if it works for you and your customers that’s great it is certainly about saving time w/o compromising finish product?
So don’t get me wrong I am interested if you hv done it the other way? Was it a waste of time for you?
Thk u Sir for the content!
Use vinyl trim to go around the window, no rot!
forgot the the most important part, metal flashing across top board and behind siding. THAT HOUSE WOULD HAVE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS DAMAGE IN 5 YEARS.
ALL PRO
Side flashing tape is supposed to go on TOP of flange, not underneath.
we do under and over, so many people don't go over. Makes no sense
lol.. the proper way to do this is to build the frame first.. pocket hole it together so it is one piece and holds up much better... that's just for starters
Good tip, but each technique works in different installs. Old construction deserves a little thought before re-trimming.
MIke - u haven't shown how it's connected at the bottom of the trim ...
Flashing is installed wrong. The manufacturers window warranty would be voided. Drip edge should have been cut longer and bent down on the sides. He nailed the drip edge to the top trim piece. The top of the drip edge is supposed to be at an angle. He just flattened it out and took away the drip edges ability to push water away from the house. The nails also created a path for water to enter the wood. Not sure why he would cut the wrap at the top when he should have installed the flashing then used the flashing tape at the top of the drip edge. This is better than some builders but still a disaster waiting to happen. Wonder how many times he has used the phrase, "your warranty has expired".
You are working in a prop
Quick easy access to many projects with Woodglut plans.
You only respond to those who thank you, but not those with a question. Not a good look.
so i had discount windows do my windows and i think they did everything wrong
A hot mess
I don’t think you know what you’re doing
There is so much of what you have said that is so wrong. I recommend the book, Get Your House Right. It will explain everything to you.
I just bought the book you suggested - a waste of money. It has a whole chapter on "exterior window trim" but never shows any techniques. It's mostly about what styles go with dormers, etc. Shame on you.