Exact! Marketing can get too crazy fast, I think too many nowadays in that "industry" get bogged down in way too many details and "miss the forest because of the trees." That bottle "LOUD" makes no sense at all, unless their target consumers were the Walmart and Target folk; the masses if you will:) HA! For a smaller niche consumer, say wealthy buyers, keep it simple and eloquent. To the intellectuals, the bottle design, and presentation, doesn't matter to nearly as much people as some think. What's inside is of the utmost and second is dispensing what's inside out.
As a self taught perfumer, I thoroughly enjoyed this documentary. I started my brand about a year ago and have loved every second of it. Being able to make fragrances how i wish big brands would is such a unique experience. I am so happy to be able to share these fragrances with the world.
Not anymore. They start to lower the quality. Bottles are cheap made, cheap plastic and the liquid is weak as water. My gran mother used Shalimar her entire life. Shalimar from the 40s has nothing to do with Shalimar from today. Shalimar from today is a very sad story. If you have money , buy a vintage bottle. You will understand.
I think you should have allocated some coverage to Italian perfumes as well. My unchangeable evening perfume is the original Cerutti-1881. I still retain a bottle since 1987! My day perfume is Green Water by Jacques Fath, since 1985. I identify with those two, trying out the classical European Brands in between. Just sharing.
“Perfumes that used to whisper now have to shout.” Couldn’t be further from the truth. Old perfumes contained enormous amounts of high quality ingredients compared to perfume today. It is all synthetics now, and everytime a perfume is reformulated because ingredients are banned (thanks to IFRA) or no longer available they become weaker, more watered down, and the original formulas are changed.
I think they mean shouting in terms of marketing. The old way was about tradition and taste. Quiet luxury. The clientele understood perfumery and cared about quality and loyalty to a “house” that was part of tradition instead of being a spot decision by a teen in a mall. One trip to Paris and i completely changed how my buy perfume. I actually care about being _elegant_ now and never buy something as brash and ugly as Loud. Be a rebel where it counts, not in a stupid perfume FFS.
There are countless wild flowers and herbs that is totally unknown to the west from Asia. On a few occasions, I have come across tribal people making some amazing perfumes with those authentic raw ingredients. Fascinating field to explore and experiment!!
@@TrasteIAm Ancient people did use animal bile, urine, and dung in their beauty routines 🤷♂️ Hell, we use crushed beetles as pigment in food, and beaver musk as flavoring in vanilla ice cream...honey is bee vomit, we drink milk from cows...everything is gross when you really think about it.
Patchouli is like one of the most commonly used base notes along with Amber, Tonka, musk etc. also as a cook I see so many similarities in the making of a fragrance to the making of a dish. Great chefs can learn from perfumers, even if just to realize that many of the "notes" used in perfumery should be used in cuisine as well.
100 years ago they used ambergris and musk as spices. Also Alain Ducasse adds a little oakmoss extract to some of his stocks to add depth, or so I heard.
perfuming is pretty comparable to making a dish, I see composing music and painting pictures comparable to perfuming too, I used to play with a music studio on my computer using different sounds to create a single song, it's like a perfumer putting notes together to create a single scent
@@aarona764 Yes, true.Also now musk is used in candies, bubble gums,thoot paste...lichen as well. ..also benjoin resins are used for the famous orciata almondy drink and even for the production of the fake smoke used in theatre. ..roses waters, rose powders and kewra water are widely used in asian desserts and drinks. ...The list could be neverending :) love perfumes
My first perfume was Shalimar by Guerlain. It was my grandmother's velvet purple shadow box with the crystal cut bottle inside from the 1950's. It was so gorgeous. It started my perfume addiction!
My first perfume I was bought was Electric Youth by Debbie Gibson. Than I used to steal my mother's Victoria Secret Heavenly perfume and when she passed, they discontinued it :{
I know .I bough a full bottle of Shalimar about a ago after seeing this doc.I had herd of shalimar before of corse and I always wished to try it but all I ever knew of it was it was ungodly expensive like 150-200 dollars a bottle .I was shocked to find it was not as expensive as i thought and that my local walgreens sold the largest most beautiful vintage styled bottle bottle for $52.98 after tax I love Guerlain a shame the co. that now owns it fired the old man as spokesperson for his family's former CO.for SUPPOSED racist comments in a interview, i say supposed because it was a old fashioned term of speech he used and it is another ludicrous example of how lawfully imposed P.C.language is destroying french democracy.Anyway Guerlain is a wonderful and superior product, and check your local Walgreens wink wink.
this situation where boss comes in to judge perfume, and then they all agree how fantastic it smells , and the woman..she looks so important to herself, music and a perfume, LOUD what a forced situation without any creativity and imagination from the inside......
Duuuuuuuude! This comment section is FIRE! You've attracted the most fascinating, creative, funny, articulate and critical fragrance lovers here, well done! I hope this video gets picked up by the algorithm once more and does another viral round, picking up more new viewers who will leave their two cents below. Thank you so much for the upload. 😃 I got a real kick out of Chandler's segments in this-- his books are fantastic.
@@majid-2-0-2-3 I wish I knew what this comment was actually intending to ask because if it's literally 'what it says on the tin', then could you kindly provide a link to wherever you read that cartoonishly pseudoscientific, neo-psychedelic bit of inspired poetry.
@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293 I was just pointing out that we are human beings who forget, and in detail, the biggest chance of forgetting is for women, so life is compatible, and I don’t mean anything else.
Absolutely enthralling documentary, especially for a fragrance lover such as myself. I love the luxury, the rich history associated with fragrance. Absolutely fantastic. -HP
41:22 I love how 50 year old Trudy is briefing her team of 20 year old people about what young people are like! Then it goes in to a song from 1972 called "I'd Like to Teach the World to Sing in Perfect Harmony". LMAO! The team looks like they want to say get a clue Trudy. We know what we are like and this ain't it!
I agree that rose is not the note that should represent rock - I'm no expert but think a combo of some of these - incense, tobacco, saffron, leather, amber, musk, oud, patchouli, hay, honey, licorice, pepper and maybe a hint of flowers like jasmine or black rose to make it interesting- but only enough to make it so no one knows what that note is....and wonder
I love the narrator absolutely dragging Hilfiger through the mud. Guerlain, is a respected, and long standing perfumery. Massive respect to this documentary. Thierry, is a genius perfumer. And seeing his love and relationship with Mr. Guerlain himself is touching to see. Also seeing the disappointment and sadness over Maison Guerlain’s racist comments.
And they come free of pthalates, parabens and synthetic musk!! Girllll! These perfumes makeup is as old and outdated as Guerlain. If people only knew this “quality” they speak of comes in the form of synthetic ingredients. ☢️
" The most important thing is the bottle" -- funny thing is that some of the most successful perfume brands have the simplest designs of perfume bottles (and consistent too)... Guess the whole point about perfume business is all about the scent rather than the bottle design.
We tend to remember perfume gifts from older people. A man who liked me, an older man, gave me SHALIMAR by Guerlain. It was already very old-fashioned in the late seventies in the USA. I was intrigued by the vanilla notes, and now that I live in Paris, I know that the French associate vanilla with security and goodness. I loved the book PERFUME and notice that I change scents every few years. At least. I enjoy travel and there is a lot to learn here in France. Thanks for posting this. I have two degrees in the sciences, and there are a lot of organic reasons for scent preferences and what we find repellent.
Frangrance is a family tradition...my grandmother invested in and owned a "Perfume Bar: in a resort hotel in the 20's and 30's...her favs were Joy, Shalimar, and Chanel...my mother's and mine too....I saw that bottle of Joy sitting there!
My god... The pinacle was that woman having in hand a patchouli plant saying it's almost odourless... Yes Madam, in case you don't know patchouli develops its fragrance upon drying and fermenting...and those pepole are working in perfumes? it's ridiculous.
Unfortunately, the greatest perfume houses have had to adjust to regulations for our health. So many ingredients are banned now that the scope of scents is so limited. It’s a trade off between the healthiest ingredients and the best smelling ones. All of the great perfumes have had to undergo repeated reformulations to comply with these regulations or to keep costs down. Nothing still smells like it used to smell. So disappointing.
I wonder if the marketing industry will ever learn that the one thing the "youth" don't like is being pandered to. The whole Tommy Hilfiger crap is cringy as hell.
The one thing the marketing knows is that they were once young and therefore know how young people think even if the generations change. In this case, experience counts for a lot.
Guerlain is hands down my favorite house. Love the classics. However, they have been churning out flanker after flanker of Mon Guerlain, the same sugary sweet juice all the other houses mass produce.
I love Guerlain too. I have Shalimar EDT and EDP and Mitsuko, Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Heritage ECT. I want to get Jicky and find a bottle of Derby. I love classic perfume
im a travel agent and wonder if i can ask a survey question. What would you think of a niche fragrance tour. where perfume lovers would travel to key locations in certain countries to tour exclusive perfume factories.
+Ramon Heard Jr maybe trying to reach out to the top fragranciers on the tube and have them promote the tour also.i would love to see that documentary :)
I loved the start of this listening to the man from France and his families legacy. I had to stop listening when the New York executive came on whining. The reason America doesn't have a passion for perfume is because perfume makers have no passion in making perfume! pure and simple. I have two french perfume that I love( love is too weak a word) and hopefully they will put them in my coffin one day to remind me of a passion -called life.
now that i think of it my first perfume was Jardins de Bagatelle from Guerlain, my mother gave it to me at my 13th birthday , i still use it with another few from the same house , but what i learned from my mother is that each season has a perfum and they must compliment your personality and style , it takes a lot of experimenting and of course it's a never ending process , because as you mature, your taste and style keeps evolving so is your choice in fragrance
the original1980's Polo by Ralph Lauren is a scent that reminds me so much of teenage years..it smells like young jocks,small town stoners,b other popular kids and loners,the debate club,hair bands, the yearbook pictures you drew a heart around, prom night in the gym, testosterone,keggers, deer hunting,heartache,first love, virginity and endless possibilities.
The Sondheim music in the background is so telling! 'A Little Night Music' waltzes for the elegance of Guerlain and 'Sweeney Todd' for the launch of the crass Loud scent and the fall of Jean Paul! Wow!
even I feel embarrassed for that veronique lady when she's showing the perfume to tommy hilfiger; in what way did they actually "mix scent and sound"?! they just made a kitschy scent and gave it a so-called rock'n'roll title and that justifies them to talk about it as if it were some sort of alchemic result of a lifetime's hard work; they are just marketers pretending to have done something artful. Their put-on naivety is almost hilarious : ))
Only by looking at the bottle and knowing the ingredients of that "loud" eau de toilette I can tell that it's a mediocre, cheap, weak, shampoo smelling scent aimed at the masses.
Several niche houses indulge in rose-patchouli fragrances. It's far from a combination that suits popular tastes. For that, companies choose fresh, light aquatics.
Guerlain was a revolutionary perfume house, which created 'the new', however as synthetic molecules came into consideration and they become spread Guerlain ceased to be associated with great quality and uniqueness. Having been in perfume world for so many years I gave a chance to Guerlain to convince me about their quality and originality. Their remarkable collection, called L'art et la Matiére was not so appealing to me because of the significant amount of marketing to which I got used to. When I was in Vienna I picked up Tonka Impériale just as to touch and examine the unusual classy look atomizer. As I sprayed it on the paper strip I knew, that I encounter with a quality, which evokes the time before synthetic molecules. Such a huge gourmand scent had not been smelt by myself before that time. That was overwhelming and gorgeous! I am an experienced niche head but TI enhanced my curiosity.
Thomas thanks for your helpful information! I am interested in trying a Guerlain perfume that is animalistic, wood, musky. Which perfumes are the best of their too?
You should try Histories de Parfums' animalistic series, because among Guerlain scents you won't be able to find a really animalistic fragrance. Cuir Bluga is a great scent too, but if you want a musky smell smell Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan or Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire :)
Thomas I recently sampled Histoires de Parfum's Noir Patchouli, and really fell in love - so much that I ordered a travel size (15ml) and a full sampler (10x1.7 strayers) for $18. What a deal, right? It's hard to believe that a store like Sephora carrying such a "niche" brand. Really glad to see they were there, though, and that the sampler was so reasonable.
Trust me, fragrances have never been this popular. Especially now where even teenagers have huge collections of fragrances. It's crazy. Back when I was a teenager I only had 1 fragrance and it was a shitty one. I just wore it because I didn't know any better.
this only gets more and more true every year. there's a hugely popular community of fragrance enthusiasts on Tiktok, and plenty of other places like Fragrantica!
Ha! 5 years later, I can tell all this kidos are going crazy with tiktoks and influencers. I'm kinda disappointed, but I understand generational changes
It's easy to see the differences between the modern and the traditional perfumeries. I am happy for BBC to make such a documentary on this unusual subject. I now must have a perfume of one of the companies featured, not only of the traditional ingredients, but because I see a man, a company, who specializes in the art, and loves what they do. The product seems to have a soul, a depth, and a perfume must have that as an ingredient. The perfume's perfume. PS- I am a perfumista;)
I think what Hilfinger meant with "... we all know what it says, but what does it really say?" was simply, that the name on the bottle was illegible since all you could see at first was "OU" while the L + D got kind of lost in the design.....
Our consumerism is leading to a hollow sense of sophistication. We try so hard to show with many what just one can accomplish. Now the pendulum is trying to swing the other way, but it's a hard slog.
He sure didn't like the packaging, and rightly so, it's schlock and doesn't go at all with the fragrance. I mean, who listens to vinyl records? The kids have never owned a record player. Or maybe the fragrance doesn't go with the packaging. The cologne is based on Rose, which is anything but loud.
i'm 56. my first scent was ysl pour homme. i've been wearing chanel for men since i was 16, before it became chanel pour monsieur. it's citrusy, but on the dl- it's never over bearing. it's not my only scent, but it's the one i always have in my home. i've been liking prada amber these past couple years as well, there's a subtlety to it that i find i like very much.
I never realised it was so bad in the US. Here in AU you have to help yourself. You can get assistance if you want but I rarely get anyone hovering let alone badgering. That said, I never shop for perfume at peak hours.
Whats funny is I've never experienced or seen any store do this lol each time I've gone into sephora or Ulta the bottles are always out on display for customers to try for themselves..ive never seen any Sales associates spray perfume all over the place or on the customers
I really enjoy the idea of constructing and creating fragrances - I just think a fragrance tells you so much about a person without having to say anything. For me, my favourite aftershave is Thierry Mugler's original A*Men as I really think it's so powerful yet sweet that it's so unique to me. I've never smelt this on any other man I know. I think that's such a great way of being authentic
there's a lot of indie brands that still do good things. Of course, they're more expensive and difficult to find. But I actually found a store in Harajuku that has some nice perfume that seems more classic styled and less like the sort of thing you're bothered by.
It really isn't fading my friend. I've just gotten into making perfume as a hobby, and there is a serious community out there. The standards employed by the serious hobbiest-turned-retail producers is absolute PAR EXCELLENCE :) you get a higher quality product for less than the big names. Regards
I love Guerlain, I have 4 of their perfumes in my top 10. While it was not my mom who introduces me to Guerlain perfumes, rest assured I am a customer for life :)
this video makes me feel like a lot of our perception of a perfume has to do with the publicity and pretentiousness that surrounds perfume. it makes me think of the Freakonomics podcast on expensive wines where they showed how price can affect your enjoyment of a product.
Why are all the good comments on this video over 5 years old?! I agree with your perspective here. Look at Kat Von D's 'Saint' and 'Sinner' fragrances: there's absolutely NOTHING that's 'rock'n'roll' goth luxe about the actual scents! People are totally sucked in by packaging and marketing.
@@raisa_cherry35 😄💝 A really great 'gothic' scent is 'Baiser de Florence' by Ella K. It smells like a split screen in the movies where one side is Italian flower garden and the other is huge wooden church doors being pushed open, with liturgical incense wafting out. What a masterpiece. Sonia Constant knocks everything out of the park for Ella K.
The two main things I take away from this documentary number one a newfound respect for gurlain, and a reaffirmation to disregard celebrity fragrances and fragrances pushed by marketing like those Tommy fragrances
OMG! It's so true. Smell is so powerful. The smell of the old Aussie formula and Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Oil shampoos bring me back to my happier times in high school. Whereas, the old Pantene ProV formula brings me back to the worse of times in my life, middle school years. Sweet Pea bath wash/ body mist and Mirta De Perales hair care system are the real winners though, bringing me all the way back to happy childhood times. It is amazing how powerful scent is and how much smell manipulates you.
My god, this starts to feel like a parody, a la This Is Spinal Tap, when they get to the launch of Loud and the middle aged woman is telling the young women what youth are interested in, and the clean cut, pretty boy model is described as "punk". These people are so full of shit it's hilarious. Honestly, the search for that patchouli plant, as if it will make or break this event, and the future of the human race depends upon it had me laughing so hard my face hurt. Cannot believe these people are for real. The contrast of their superficiality, and the substance of the long history of Guerlain is striking. And a bit sad.
This documentary is so well made that it's constantly bordering on comedy and satire. Right after that scene you're referring to, at 41:43 they start playing a song that was made famous for being in a 1971 Coca-Cola ad that appropriated hippie culture for capitalist gains. This one: ua-cam.com/video/ib-Qiyklq-Q/v-deo.html If you watched the show Mad Men, this musical reference has even more depth (as that song ends the final episode of the series), but seeing as Mad Men was a show that ended in 2015 and this documentary was released in 2011, it's testament to the people who created this documentary and to their creative subtlety and depth. There were a lot of quiet, unassuming jabs like that one throughout. It really is exceptionally well made.
he should care its his money and reputation, and those clown of idiots he has working for him who have no idea about perfume are just about making a quick dollar
silverss onyoutube "We did not do the market research, we wanted to keep the creative process 'creative'" WTH!!! Doing proper market research, accessing users, etc does not mean being less creative! To whom are they creating that fragrance? Themselves? Idiots! 😈
@@silverssonyoutube8438I agree. They're all saying how great it is to his face in shameless self promotion and hype. His face tells the story, although he did actually like the smell of the perfume, so he let them go ahead.
I love Samsara by Guerlain, it's very special to me. It was the very first fragrance I tried in a department store after moving to Canada in 1984. One of my faves since then.
I absolutely love this documentary!...Honestly I have probably over 75 bottles of cologne & perfume men's/women's...& there is one cologne I always find myself going back to every time...Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male...Guys the scent is incredible & I literally stop women in their tracks (I work in retail) to ask what I am wearing & how good I smell...The quality & sillage is wonderful too it last 7+ hours on my skin....I will buy Jean Paul's fragrances for the rest of my life!
The quote about a woman taking off her clothes and being left with only her fragrance was truly magical. Ps. Those fragrance pushers at the counter really piss me off.
The scent that got me into cologne was blue de chanel, now I have 10 or 11 different colognes witch is hardly any but still allot for someone had no idea about fragrances 6 months ago.
Since you are a fan of smaller perfume companies, I’m curious what the number one thing you look for in your fragrances. I’m hoping to start my own soon, and I wanted to do some research first.
@@morganmiller5413 I'd say one reason I picked the brand I usually buy is because they are more affordable than traditional perfumes at $18 a rollerball. I also think they use ingredients that are interesting to someone new to collecting. For example one of my favorites has "hibiscus, green pearl, orange pekoe, Earl Grey, and salt tea enlivened with neroli, coriander, rosewood, starfruit, pink pepper, a snap of stemone, and creamy fig". So basically the brand caught my attention with a easy way to try them out (themed sample boxes) and I stayed a customer because the owner seems to really have fun formulating new experiments in fragrance which translates to a fun experience for me as the buyer too.
I agree, she probably knew very well. I think her wisdom and experience also told her the name of that fragrance was very bad. I am 50 and love rose patchouli scents. It looks like the time and work they took to develop the product was wasted on that terrible name they picked. For marketing to young people, Hilfiger could have taken a page out of Lush company's book. They are genius with the younger set. I wonder if there was anyone who initially told Hilfiger it was a terrible idea, or perhaps he is surrounded by Yes women and men -- that's what happens.
Maybe one day Americans can focus on passion and creativity and not deadlines and mass production... in my opinion the House of Guerlain and the perfume masterpieces is true art and passion.
Tommy has a couple good designer cheapies. I do not own any but I would buy Impact if that was the direction my collection went. OG Tommy was huge with the masses back in the day. I have about 80 fragrances mostly niché and my most complemented juice is Versace Dylan Blue. In my opinion the best designer cheapy of the ilk but a shampoo scent non the less.
So I guess now we know why the loud fragrance didn’t make any kind of an impact or impression. You had a scent created to appeal to a target group. Everything was conceived around a concept music and fragrance. But the process IMO was done backwards. Start with a fragrance and then determine what it conveys. Trust me when I say. I’m interested in the liquid gold in the bottle. I could give two shits about the design of the bottle. I’m paying for the beautiful scent inside and the memories it brings back.
Really enjoyed this complete documentary. It really does show a new perspective on the creation and emotional affect that fragrances have. Especially in Brazil! I had no clue that Brazil and China were the game changers in the perfume industry. I do agree with the Brazilians as I like the fruity sweet scents. I've been expanding my perfume collection within the last few weeks and hope to develop my collection even more so I'm really getting into the whole "I want my body to have a personal elegant aroma". I'm so excited to continue with this journey. I hope I find my signature scent real soon! Thank you for this upload.
It’s THE hallmark hippie fragrance note too so to feature it in a “rock” fragrance is baffling. At least go with some tobacco, leather, black pepper, ambergris, musk… deep complex smoky scents, not “guys look I just went to LUSH”
If I could work with/for either Guerlain or Estee Lauder/Hilfiger, I'd go with the former. Even if it were to fade as a relic of yesterday's artistry, I'd rather spend my energy there. The flashy bottles and design, while creative, doesn't give me the same feeling. One seems more like a novelty, while the other makes me think about ancient perfumes and colognes, or that worn by Marie-Antoinette, or timeless fragrances.
I watched this documentary when it first came out and my back went on edge looking at LOUD i knew it was never going to be anything but a cheap fragrance that would end up discounted in a low end store. When mr Hilfiger said are the bottles going to look like this he was thinking oh god this is tacky. he should have sacked all the yesmen ! Never assume young people are tasteless , they are not and they want quality and stylish bottles of fragrance just the same as a person who can easily afford chanel and dior. Understated bottles often look classic and are perfect if the juice is top notch, no 5 has a plain glass bottle, its taken 70 plus years to change the bottle to limited edition red glass.
Uuh ja, Guerlain is one of my 2 absolutely favorite perfume houses, no other Designer and also no other niche one, tops for me my memories the i had with mon Guerlain, Shalimar, their privat line, i just have to have every fragrance that they create, they are all Master pieces!!
you have to have one hell of an excellent nose to be professional perfumer. I always been fascinated by perfumery. how incredibly complex sophisticated adjust.
I like the idea of making a perfume out of the things that did or do surround you. I don't know of a perfume anywhere that exemplifies the beautiful smell of petrichor (and I'm sure many have tried), but I would snatch it up in a heartbeat. I smelled it as a child while scrubbing potatoes and after the rain fell in the dust outside of my home. Honestly, and I understand that perfumes need a base, but I'm tired of these basic ingredients cropping up constantly in ready-made juices (ie: patchouli, sandalwood, rose, bergamot, etc.). It's a shame that perfume is hardly an artistic luxury now-a-days, but loudly mass marketed like common toothpicks. Where's the heart?
Oooh la la. I just got Arpege🖤 yesterday my first vintage. Jeanne captivates me with her stunning designs and talents. She was a powerhouse! Ahead of her time. Very interesting and intriguing woman. The black Classique bottle that she created for her daughter's 30th birthday. It is my favorite because of the art deco mom and daughter getting ready for the ball.O looked on Google and found the actual pic of the two and cried. Mother and daughter love. ..it smells like an beauty's boudoir a scent of times gone by. It smells baby powdery and wistful. I won't wear this fragrance until I am much older ( by then it will be an antique over 100 years old) , but I will treasure it. 🖤
OMG!!!!! the Americans claim its the bottle and the marketing!!! We lose the whole point.I would gladly take my perfume in a dark glass bottle! I even keep a back stock, scared that I may lose access to it. PASSION is perfume
I feel the same way about fragrance as I do about fashion - love the creative processes, dislike the marketing and selling, what was coming through to me was some degree of inauthenticity, obsequiousness and cringe.
I've been collecting perfume since I was 6 years old, and the French have the correct attitude about how perfume should be made, worn and "marketed". I find what people are doing nowadays, (putting one out and pulling it from the "market" several years later), to be cheap, horribly disappointing and frankly infuriating! Since Avon pulled Today and Always from their selection, not to mention Charisma and Occur, they were extremely short-sighted and an outrage! Always is one of my favorites of recent years, and now, it's gone. Obviously Avon has dessacrated its standards to selling what's popular "now", forgetting that some of those older perfumes were what made them so successful in the past. Even some of the lighter but still sophisticated French perfumes by Christian LeCroix (Fantasque for example) were removed, and I loved it. It smelled almost like Chanel 19. Always, which was introduced in 2004-2005 was one of the most delicious and femanin fragrances I've come across in years, and it's a shame Avon no longer sells it. My Avon lady is in her 80s, and Charisma was and is still her favorite fragrance by Avon, and like me, she found many of the newer fragrances to be too loud, irritating to the nose and eyes, and some perfumes can even turn people away from one another rather than bringing them closer. Frankly, I believe that this may even reflect an attitude of "I want (you) to notice ME!!!" It's like screaming to draw attention to yourself reguardless of the fact that it's offensive to others, and God forbid you do that in church. Perfume should express that you want to attract others to you in a positive and "friendly" way, what I like to refer to as inviting others to make friends and/or establish a healthy relationship with you.
Gucci Pour Homme 1 & 2 - simple bottles, amazing fragrances. Dior Homme intense / Homme Parfum - simple bottles, amazing fragrances. Mont Blanc - Indivuduel - simple bottle, amazing fragrance. screw bottledesign, deliver good juice instead... and STOP reformulating. Tommy hilfiger, what a douche. Arrived 15 minutes late to a very important meeting, didn't even bother to shake hands with the 3 people who worked for him, and how did he smell the fragrance?.... on a damn paperstick. Everyone knows that if you really want to smell a fragrance, you must apply it to the skin, because it changes scent by the warmth and oils of the skin...
Dreez76 Dior's private collection, even more simple bottling, even better scents. Tom Ford's private line, most plain looking bottles ever, but legendary in the perfume community.
I Avoid Walking into Macys because its Disgusting How the Sales people Attack you while you are browsing !! soooo Annoying !!!!but I guess they work on Commission and they are under a lot of stress to make numbers , but Still I find it sooo disgusting how aggressive they are!
I think I’ve only gravitated toward one Tommy Hilfiger fragrance and it was amazing. I forgot the name. But this “loud” rock n roll route are for unsophisticated youth. Kids are more sophisticated in this 2022 moment. Which is why we gravitate toward brands like breydo and maison Martin margiella. We don’t want to damn gimicky bottlE UNLESS it’s complete original and organically created not forced. I’m a 22 year old living in NYC AND I love fragrance. The Shalimar fragrance sound interesting to me because it sounds more authentic and integrity
Old niche houses like Diptyque and L'Artisan are worth looking into if you want sophisticated scents, if you have a higher budget, Frederic Malle and Amouage. And old Guerlain creations survive to this day are all very great, better than certain 300+ USD niche or "exclusive" ones.
Well to be fair, it was launched in 2010 haha. I agree, the youth today are attracted to brands like what you mentioned. Micro influencers also boost the marketing of the brands.
Funny, indeed. That segment could be a lead-in to a coming-of-age movie about the turmoils of being average in a world of privilege and artifice. ; ] Great sense of tradition, though. This is a classically top-shelf BBC piece.
LOVE this documentary. I’m a perfume lover, always was since I was a kid. Lavender is my olfactory memory of my grandma bathing in it. I’m Brazilian, everything they said about Brazil and perfumes is true. The sight of that bottle of Mugler’s Womanity gave me the headache the perfume used to give. I wish they would bring back Chaumet and Armani Sensi but for now I’ll be spending all my money on Xerjoff.
A fragrance isn't bottled luxury, it is bottled past, it is like photography.
The loud bottle looks like something I’d find in a Walmart or target
Exact! Marketing can get too crazy fast, I think too many nowadays in that "industry" get bogged down in way too many details and "miss the forest because of the trees." That bottle "LOUD" makes no sense at all, unless their target consumers were the Walmart and Target folk; the masses if you will:) HA! For a smaller niche consumer, say wealthy buyers, keep it simple and eloquent. To the intellectuals, the bottle design, and presentation, doesn't matter to nearly as much people as some think. What's inside is of the utmost and second is dispensing what's inside out.
As a self taught perfumer, I thoroughly enjoyed this documentary. I started my brand about a year ago and have loved every second of it. Being able to make fragrances how i wish big brands would is such a unique experience. I am so happy to be able to share these fragrances with the world.
How do you start your own brand?
@@annaml2359 you can check out my youtube channel @aromasdesalazar. I have some videos up of how i started and what you need.
Post your info
@@pankocreamriotersalaazar5771 I will check it out tomorrow. Thank you.
What happened with your fragrance?
Guerlain is more than just a perfume house to me, its a whole inspiration, a legendary into perfumery, Thierry Wasser is a living legend
I can't agree more 😊
Not anymore. They start to lower the quality. Bottles are cheap made, cheap plastic and the liquid is weak as water. My gran mother used Shalimar her entire life. Shalimar from the 40s has nothing to do with Shalimar from today. Shalimar from today is a very sad story. If you have money , buy a vintage bottle. You will understand.
I LOVE GUERLAIN.. AND SAMSARA, OMG.. ITS A WORK OF ART
I think you should have allocated some coverage to Italian perfumes as well. My unchangeable evening perfume is the original Cerutti-1881. I still retain a bottle since 1987! My day perfume is Green Water by Jacques Fath, since 1985. I identify with those two, trying out the classical European Brands in between. Just sharing.
“Perfumes that used to whisper now have to shout.”
Couldn’t be further from the truth. Old perfumes contained enormous amounts of high quality ingredients compared to perfume today. It is all synthetics now, and everytime a perfume is reformulated because ingredients are banned (thanks to IFRA) or no longer available they become weaker, more watered down, and the original formulas are changed.
I think they mean shouting in terms of marketing. The old way was about tradition and taste. Quiet luxury. The clientele understood perfumery and cared about quality and loyalty to a “house” that was part of tradition instead of being a spot decision by a teen in a mall. One trip to Paris and i completely changed how my buy perfume. I actually care about being _elegant_ now and never buy something as brash and ugly as Loud. Be a rebel where it counts, not in a stupid perfume FFS.
There are countless wild flowers and herbs that is totally unknown to the west from Asia. On a few occasions, I have come across tribal people making some amazing perfumes with those authentic raw ingredients. Fascinating field to explore and experiment!!
im in asia. where are you talking about exactly
Cow dung is a common ingredient.
@@TrasteIAm Ancient people did use animal bile, urine, and dung in their beauty routines 🤷♂️ Hell, we use crushed beetles as pigment in food, and beaver musk as flavoring in vanilla ice cream...honey is bee vomit, we drink milk from cows...everything is gross when you really think about it.
@@laneatkinson6441 Balsams and 'ambers' are the blood of injured trees
@@laneatkinson6441 hell flowers are the sex organs of a larger plant
Patchouli is like one of the most commonly used base notes along with Amber, Tonka, musk etc. also as a cook I see so many similarities in the making of a fragrance to the making of a dish. Great chefs can learn from perfumers, even if just to realize that many of the "notes" used in perfumery should be used in cuisine as well.
100 years ago they used ambergris and musk as spices. Also Alain Ducasse adds a little oakmoss extract to some of his stocks to add depth, or so I heard.
perfuming is pretty comparable to making a dish, I see composing music and painting pictures comparable to perfuming too, I used to play with a music studio on my computer using different sounds to create a single song, it's like a perfumer putting notes together to create a single scent
@@aarona764 Yes, true.Also now musk is used in candies, bubble gums,thoot paste...lichen as well. ..also benjoin resins are used for the famous orciata almondy drink and even for the production of the fake smoke used in theatre. ..roses waters, rose powders and kewra water are widely used in asian desserts and drinks. ...The list could be neverending :) love perfumes
Great
Lemongrass oil is much easier than chopping real lemongrass.
The development of that Loud frag made my skin crawl. So many people so full of shit.
+get off my lawn empty fragance, empty brand...
fjdskfljskfsl
Full of shit indeed ,dated out of touch
Shalimar smells like an old purse from a thrift store
@@clementinemonroe717😂 you ain’t lying 😅
My first perfume was Shalimar by Guerlain. It was my grandmother's velvet purple shadow box with the crystal cut bottle inside from the 1950's. It was so gorgeous. It started my perfume addiction!
BK Lulu ... Nice...! Mine 1st was Joy by Jean Patou.
Brightstar Lavandula wow you guys are both lucky, two of the most iconic scents ever made! Very very nice!
My first perfume I was bought was Electric Youth by Debbie Gibson. Than I used to steal my mother's Victoria Secret Heavenly perfume and when she passed, they discontinued it :{
BK Lulu
P U
I know .I bough a full bottle of Shalimar about a ago after seeing this doc.I had herd of shalimar before of corse and I always wished to try it but all I ever knew of it was it was ungodly expensive like 150-200 dollars a bottle .I was shocked to find it was not as expensive as i thought and that my local walgreens sold the largest most beautiful vintage styled bottle bottle for $52.98 after tax I love Guerlain a shame the co. that now owns it fired the old man as spokesperson for his family's former CO.for SUPPOSED racist comments in a interview, i say supposed because it was a old fashioned term of speech he used and it is another ludicrous example of how lawfully imposed P.C.language is destroying french democracy.Anyway Guerlain is a wonderful and superior product, and check your local Walgreens wink wink.
this situation where boss comes in to judge perfume, and then they all agree how fantastic it smells , and the woman..she looks so important to herself, music and a perfume, LOUD what a forced situation without any creativity and imagination from the inside......
Dead on
Duuuuuuuude! This comment section is FIRE! You've attracted the most fascinating, creative, funny, articulate and critical fragrance lovers here, well done! I hope this video gets picked up by the algorithm once more and does another viral round, picking up more new viewers who will leave their two cents below. Thank you so much for the upload. 😃 I got a real kick out of Chandler's segments in this-- his books are fantastic.
🔥🔥🔥
I still love axe africa why ? Better than perfumes
It is said that perfumes have a memory. Is this true?
@@majid-2-0-2-3 I wish I knew what this comment was actually intending to ask because if it's literally 'what it says on the tin', then could you kindly provide a link to wherever you read that cartoonishly pseudoscientific, neo-psychedelic bit of inspired poetry.
@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293 I was just pointing out that we are human beings who forget, and in detail, the biggest chance of forgetting is for women, so life is compatible, and I don’t mean anything else.
Absolutely enthralling documentary, especially for a fragrance lover such as myself.
I love the luxury, the rich history associated with fragrance.
Absolutely fantastic.
-HP
Ha! That pack of professional corporate ass kissers/marketers is the absolute antithesis of rock'n'roll.
i'm sure they know how to fake it! It is self explanatory from the profits :D
41:22 I love how 50 year old Trudy is briefing her team of 20 year old people about what young people are like! Then it goes in to a song from 1972 called "I'd Like to Teach the World to Sing in Perfect Harmony". LMAO! The team looks like they want to say get a clue Trudy. We know what we are like and this ain't it!
The smell of rock is cigarettes, fog machine, beer, drugs and sex. Not roses! haha
ie Not how I want to smell.....old stale beer...ugh!
I'd had make it with tobbaco, roses, weed slighly (yes weed), etc
smell of studio with padded wall upholstery, aged wood from guitar..
I agree that rose is not the note that should represent rock - I'm no expert but think a combo of some of these - incense, tobacco, saffron, leather, amber, musk, oud, patchouli, hay, honey, licorice, pepper and maybe a hint of flowers like jasmine or black rose to make it interesting- but only enough to make it so no one knows what that note is....and wonder
@@msDanielp369 this sounds more ideal, id also add a boozy note too like whiskey or Rum
The narrator is shading the FUCK out the Loud launch before and during the hotel penthouse scenes. The SHAAAAAADE! I live. Go Guerlain!!
the LOUD fragrance must not have been much of a success because it's now 2024 and I've never heard of it.
I love the narrator absolutely dragging Hilfiger through the mud. Guerlain, is a respected, and long standing perfumery.
Massive respect to this documentary.
Thierry, is a genius perfumer. And seeing his love and relationship with Mr. Guerlain himself is touching to see. Also seeing the disappointment and sadness over Maison Guerlain’s racist comments.
Nothing like the smell of a good, well stoked, old library. The smell of an old, classic book is Heaven. If only that smell can be bottled.
And they come free of pthalates, parabens and synthetic musk!! Girllll! These perfumes makeup is as old and outdated as Guerlain. If people only knew this “quality” they speak of comes in the form of synthetic ingredients. ☢️
Try l’air de rien de Miller Harris, it reminds me of an old library.
" The most important thing is the bottle" -- funny thing is that some of the most successful perfume brands have the simplest designs of perfume bottles (and consistent too)... Guess the whole point about perfume business is all about the scent rather than the bottle design.
We tend to remember perfume gifts from older people. A man who liked me, an older man, gave me SHALIMAR by Guerlain. It was already very old-fashioned in the late seventies in the USA. I was intrigued by the vanilla notes, and now that I live in Paris, I know that the French associate vanilla with security and goodness. I loved the book PERFUME and notice that I change scents every few years. At least. I enjoy travel and there is a lot to learn here in France. Thanks for posting this. I have two degrees in the sciences, and there are a lot of organic reasons for scent preferences and what we find repellent.
I can’t believe that this Guerlain’s old books with formulas are kept in such a ugly box...
Ikr, i was expecting that it was on a vault or something that is locked and safe. But nope, it's just inside a dusty box out in the open. 😂😂😂
Frangrance is a family tradition...my grandmother invested in and owned a "Perfume Bar: in a resort hotel in the 20's and 30's...her favs were Joy, Shalimar, and Chanel...my mother's and mine too....I saw that bottle of Joy sitting there!
My god...
The pinacle was that woman having in hand a patchouli plant saying it's almost odourless... Yes Madam, in case you don't know patchouli develops its fragrance upon drying and fermenting...and those pepole are working in perfumes? it's ridiculous.
Unfortunately, the greatest perfume houses have had to adjust to regulations for our health. So many ingredients are banned now that the scope of scents is so limited. It’s a trade off between the healthiest ingredients and the best smelling ones. All of the great perfumes have had to undergo repeated reformulations to comply with these regulations or to keep costs down. Nothing still smells like it used to smell. So disappointing.
Masterfully said.
I spent over 30 yrs in this elegant industry.
I miss it
I think you enjoy every day :) Gr
How can we start?
I wonder if the marketing industry will ever learn that the one thing the "youth" don't like is being pandered to. The whole Tommy Hilfiger crap is cringy as hell.
itsstephenj And yet people buy this pedestrian tripe. Clearly the marketing works and not as many people as you think have haute taste.
The one thing the marketing knows is that they were once young and therefore know how young people think even if the generations change. In this case, experience counts for a lot.
fake as fuck
It made me sad to see how crass our American culture is.
Guerlain is hands down my favorite house. Love the classics. However, they have been churning out flanker after flanker of Mon Guerlain, the same sugary sweet juice all the other houses mass produce.
I love Guerlain too. I have Shalimar EDT and EDP and Mitsuko, Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Heritage ECT. I want to get Jicky and find a bottle of Derby. I love classic perfume
im a travel agent and wonder if i can ask a survey question. What would you think of a niche fragrance tour. where perfume lovers would travel to key locations in certain countries to tour exclusive perfume factories.
I'm a fragrance lover and would love a tour like that. if you put it together already I would love to go
i cant get enough interested people to go but if you havea group i have connections in Paris.
+Ramon Heard Jr
maybe trying to reach out to the top fragranciers on the tube and have them promote the tour also.i would love to see that documentary :)
+Ramon Heard Jr my answer to your survey is you're a pretentious douche so your fragrance should be vinegar
I'd love that
I loved the start of this listening to the man from France and his families legacy. I had to stop listening when the New York executive came on whining. The reason America doesn't have a passion for perfume is because perfume makers have no passion in making perfume! pure and simple. I have two french perfume that I love( love is too weak a word) and hopefully they will put them in my coffin one day to remind me of a passion -called life.
What are the the names
Ha... You should have watched through the end and you would have seen the great fall of the Guerlain name and brand. Don't put anyone on a pedestal.
now that i think of it my first perfume was Jardins de Bagatelle from Guerlain, my mother gave it to me at my 13th birthday , i still use it with another few from the same house , but what i learned from my mother is that each season has a perfum and they must compliment your personality and style , it takes a lot of experimenting and of course it's a never ending process , because as you mature, your taste and style keeps evolving so is your choice in fragrance
True!, when I was young I can only afford hello kitty, until I discovered more upmarket perfumes.
I discovered Jardin de Bagatelle in college. Adored it! My sorority sister showed me how she sprayed in her hairbrush and then brushed her hair. :-)
the original1980's Polo by Ralph Lauren is a scent that reminds me so much of teenage years..it smells like young jocks,small town stoners,b other popular kids and loners,the debate club,hair bands, the yearbook pictures you drew a heart around, prom night in the gym, testosterone,keggers, deer hunting,heartache,first love, virginity and endless possibilities.
The Sondheim music in the background is so telling! 'A Little Night Music' waltzes for the elegance of Guerlain and 'Sweeney Todd' for the launch of the crass Loud scent and the fall of Jean Paul! Wow!
even I feel embarrassed for that veronique lady when she's showing the perfume to tommy hilfiger; in what way did they actually "mix scent and sound"?! they just made a kitschy scent and gave it a so-called rock'n'roll title and that justifies them to talk about it as if it were some sort of alchemic result of a lifetime's hard work; they are just marketers pretending to have done something artful. Their put-on naivety is almost hilarious : ))
wE pLaYeD mUsIc To ThE jUiCe
Right.... so absurd
Welcome to every advertising job out there...
Mr. Tommy Hilfiger wears Tom Ford glasses. I bet he wears their perfumes as well lmao
Hahahahahaha lol
😂😂
i bet he wears guerlain, if he has any taste at all...
😅😅😅😅
Considering his fragrances are complete trash, I would bet he wears Tom Ford and Guerlain. Lol
Only by looking at the bottle and knowing the ingredients of that "loud" eau de toilette I can tell that it's a mediocre, cheap, weak, shampoo smelling scent aimed at the masses.
Several niche houses indulge in rose-patchouli fragrances. It's far from a combination that suits popular tastes. For that, companies choose fresh, light aquatics.
Guerlain was a revolutionary perfume house, which created 'the new', however as synthetic molecules came into consideration and they become spread Guerlain ceased to be associated with great quality and uniqueness. Having been in perfume world for so many years I gave a chance to Guerlain to convince me about their quality and originality. Their remarkable collection, called L'art et la Matiére was not so appealing to me because of the significant amount of marketing to which I got used to. When I was in Vienna I picked up Tonka Impériale just as to touch and examine the unusual classy look atomizer. As I sprayed it on the paper strip I knew, that I encounter with a quality, which evokes the time before synthetic molecules. Such a huge gourmand scent had not been smelt by myself before that time. That was overwhelming and gorgeous! I am an experienced niche head but TI enhanced my curiosity.
Thomas thanks for your helpful information! I am interested in trying a Guerlain perfume that is animalistic, wood, musky. Which perfumes are the best of their too?
You should try Histories de Parfums' animalistic series, because among Guerlain scents you won't be able to find a really animalistic fragrance. Cuir Bluga is a great scent too, but if you want a musky smell smell Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan or Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire :)
Thomas I recently sampled Histoires de Parfum's Noir Patchouli, and really fell in love - so much that I ordered a travel size (15ml) and a full sampler (10x1.7 strayers) for $18. What a deal, right? It's hard to believe that a store like Sephora carrying such a "niche" brand. Really glad to see they were there, though, and that the sampler was so reasonable.
Trust me, fragrances have never been this popular.
Especially now where even teenagers have huge collections of fragrances.
It's crazy. Back when I was a teenager I only had 1 fragrance and it was a shitty one. I just wore it because I didn't know any better.
this only gets more and more true every year. there's a hugely popular community of fragrance enthusiasts on Tiktok, and plenty of other places like Fragrantica!
Ha! 5 years later, I can tell all this kidos are going crazy with tiktoks and influencers. I'm kinda disappointed, but I understand generational changes
It’s sad that they keep naming these natural ingredients but 90% of these perfumers do not use any natural ingredients but all synthetic. What a shame
I prefer the old methods of perfumery, where the art is time itself.
It's easy to see the differences between the modern and the traditional perfumeries. I am happy for BBC to make such a documentary on this unusual subject.
I now must have a perfume of one of the companies featured, not only of the traditional ingredients, but because I see a man, a company, who specializes in the art, and loves what they do.
The product seems to have a soul, a depth, and a perfume must have that as an ingredient. The perfume's perfume.
PS- I am a perfumista;)
I think what Hilfinger meant with "... we all know what it says, but what does it really say?" was simply, that the name on the bottle was illegible since all you could see at first was "OU" while the L + D got kind of lost in the design.....
Don't blame us young people, we get this shit as birthday and Christmas presents
Received Gucci Guilty for christmas when i was 15 years old. It‘s still one of my favorites, even though that was 10 years ago.
What a brilliant production, too bad the BBC themselves do not upload it in Full HD. It is golden, golden I tell you.
Our consumerism is leading to a hollow sense of sophistication. We try so hard to show with many what just one can accomplish. Now the pendulum is trying to swing the other way, but it's a hard slog.
Why do I get the feeling that Tommy doesn't give a shit about his perfume? 😂😂😂
He sure didn't like the packaging, and rightly so, it's schlock and doesn't go at all with the fragrance. I mean, who listens to vinyl records? The kids have never owned a record player. Or maybe the fragrance doesn't go with the packaging. The cologne is based on Rose, which is anything but loud.
@@bobvog7123Actually vinyl has made a resurgence in the last few years.
i'm 56. my first scent was ysl pour homme. i've been wearing chanel for men since i was 16, before it became chanel pour monsieur. it's citrusy, but on the dl- it's never over bearing. it's not my only scent, but it's the one i always have in my home. i've been liking prada amber these past couple years as well, there's a subtlety to it that i find i like very much.
I'm reminded of that Spongebob scene when they have to run through a perfume section.
I know me too! That is my favorite Spongebob joke. Great documentary!
I never realised it was so bad in the US. Here in AU you have to help yourself.
You can get assistance if you want but I rarely get anyone hovering let alone badgering.
That said, I never shop for perfume at peak hours.
That cartoon is far too relatable! I'd love to know what perfume or cologne Squidward wears. Like probably something really old-fashioned or classy.
Whats funny is I've never experienced or seen any store do this lol each time I've gone into sephora or Ulta the bottles are always out on display for customers to try for themselves..ive never seen any Sales associates spray perfume all over the place or on the customers
😆
I really enjoy the idea of constructing and creating fragrances - I just think a fragrance tells you so much about a person without having to say anything.
For me, my favourite aftershave is Thierry Mugler's original A*Men as I really think it's so powerful yet sweet that it's so unique to me. I've never smelt this on any other man I know. I think that's such a great way of being authentic
I hate how the art of perfume is fading. It's all commercial and simple now. Rich, detailed and complex fragrances are fading into history.
You can still discover few complex that are rather uncommon like Boucheron pour homme - my discovery of year
+HatredPrime thanks, I'll check it out
Have you tried naturel perfume? - lot's of niche brands turning up in the US and EU. Real naturel ingredients and authentic crafsmanship.
there's a lot of indie brands that still do good things. Of course, they're more expensive and difficult to find. But I actually found a store in Harajuku that has some nice perfume that seems more classic styled and less like the sort of thing you're bothered by.
It really isn't fading my friend. I've just gotten into making perfume as a hobby, and there is a serious community out there. The standards employed by the serious hobbiest-turned-retail producers is absolute PAR EXCELLENCE :) you get a higher quality product for less than the big names. Regards
I love Guerlain, I have 4 of their perfumes in my top 10. While it was not my mom who introduces me to Guerlain perfumes, rest assured I am a customer for life :)
this video makes me feel like a lot of our perception of a perfume has to do with the publicity and pretentiousness that surrounds perfume. it makes me think of the Freakonomics podcast on expensive wines where they showed how price can affect your enjoyment of a product.
Absolutely
Why are all the good comments on this video over 5 years old?! I agree with your perspective here. Look at Kat Von D's 'Saint' and 'Sinner' fragrances: there's absolutely NOTHING that's 'rock'n'roll' goth luxe about the actual scents! People are totally sucked in by packaging and marketing.
@@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293 Well said 👏
@@raisa_cherry35 😄💝 A really great 'gothic' scent is 'Baiser de Florence' by Ella K. It smells like a split screen in the movies where one side is Italian flower garden and the other is huge wooden church doors being pushed open, with liturgical incense wafting out. What a masterpiece. Sonia Constant knocks everything out of the park for Ella K.
The two main things I take away from this documentary number one a newfound respect for gurlain, and a reaffirmation to disregard celebrity fragrances and fragrances pushed by marketing like those Tommy fragrances
fragrance is such a big industry.almost every company peddles the same mixture thru different names and with huge price differences.
OMG! It's so true. Smell is so powerful. The smell of the old Aussie formula and Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Oil shampoos bring me back to my happier times in high school. Whereas, the old Pantene ProV formula brings me back to the worse of times in my life, middle school years. Sweet Pea bath wash/ body mist and Mirta De Perales hair care system are the real winners though, bringing me all the way back to happy childhood times. It is amazing how powerful scent is and how much smell manipulates you.
Guerlain is my FAVORITE HOUSE! I especially love their Classique (classic) fragrances😍
My first cologne was Davidoff cool water I was 12 years old back in 2002 will always be a favorite.
Oh ya, that's still an oldie but goodie that everyone should have in their rotation.....
My favorite too has been Cool Water for the last many years. I am always asked what that beautiful scent is. It’s just right for me.
You cannot compare the artistry and quality of French Perfumeries to the brash common American shops.
My god, this starts to feel like a parody, a la This Is Spinal Tap, when they get to the launch of Loud and the middle aged woman is telling the young women what youth are interested in, and the clean cut, pretty boy model is described as "punk". These people are so full of shit it's hilarious. Honestly, the search for that patchouli plant, as if it will make or break this event, and the future of the human race depends upon it had me laughing so hard my face hurt. Cannot believe these people are for real. The contrast of their superficiality, and the substance of the long history of Guerlain is striking. And a bit sad.
This documentary is so well made that it's constantly bordering on comedy and satire. Right after that scene you're referring to, at 41:43 they start playing a song that was made famous for being in a 1971 Coca-Cola ad that appropriated hippie culture for capitalist gains. This one: ua-cam.com/video/ib-Qiyklq-Q/v-deo.html
If you watched the show Mad Men, this musical reference has even more depth (as that song ends the final episode of the series), but seeing as Mad Men was a show that ended in 2015 and this documentary was released in 2011, it's testament to the people who created this documentary and to their creative subtlety and depth. There were a lot of quiet, unassuming jabs like that one throughout. It really is exceptionally well made.
PREACH!
You can tell he cant stand the way Loud smells but he didnt want to make a scene or embarrass anyone
he should care its his money and reputation, and those clown of idiots he has working for him who have no idea about perfume are just about making a quick dollar
silverss onyoutube "We did not do the market research, we wanted to keep the creative process 'creative'" WTH!!!
Doing proper market research, accessing users, etc does not mean being less creative! To whom are they creating that fragrance? Themselves? Idiots! 😈
@@silverssonyoutube8438I agree. They're all saying how great it is to his face in shameless self promotion and hype. His face tells the story, although he did actually like the smell of the perfume, so he let them go ahead.
I love Samsara by Guerlain, it's very special to me. It was the very first fragrance I tried in a department store after moving to Canada in 1984. One of my faves since then.
It is my wife's favorite as well!
@@KLF2323 Your wife has very good taste 👍
I absolutely love this documentary!...Honestly I have probably over 75 bottles of cologne & perfume men's/women's...& there is one cologne I always find myself going back to every time...Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male...Guys the scent is incredible & I literally stop women in their tracks (I work in retail) to ask what I am wearing & how good I smell...The quality & sillage is wonderful too it last 7+ hours on my skin....I will buy Jean Paul's fragrances for the rest of my life!
same here....have always bought it ever sinced I smelled it and will until I die.
@@gmo882 Right on! 👌🏻
ya ive been sniffing around and my nose loves le male le parfum. incredible.
The quote about a woman taking off her clothes and being left with only her fragrance was truly magical.
Ps. Those fragrance pushers at the counter really piss me off.
Yes but no doubt you will find some calling it sexist in this sad and repressed world we live in.
@mschannigan4620 its the fking same about men sht the fk up victim mentality
The scent that got me into cologne was blue de chanel, now I have 10 or 11 different colognes witch is hardly any but still allot for someone had no idea about fragrances 6 months ago.
women can be ugly at daytime and wonderful at night time-Old guy who makes perfume.
Yea but somehow I thought that statement was somehow endearing. It was also the most French sentence I've ever heard.
+Aaron Arabian It's fucking ridiculous I'll tell you hwhat.
Very true!
@@abefroman9848 Sausage King of Chicago uses this line.
Better than ugly all day and all night!😂
Personally, me and other younger women I know are really getting into indie perfumeries such as ones found on Etsy. Especially perfume oils.
Since you are a fan of smaller perfume companies, I’m curious what the number one thing you look for in your fragrances. I’m hoping to start my own soon, and I wanted to do some research first.
@@morganmiller5413 I'd say one reason I picked the brand I usually buy is because they are more affordable than traditional perfumes at $18 a rollerball. I also think they use ingredients that are interesting to someone new to collecting. For example one of my favorites has "hibiscus, green pearl, orange pekoe, Earl Grey, and salt tea enlivened with neroli, coriander, rosewood, starfruit, pink pepper, a snap of stemone, and creamy fig". So basically the brand caught my attention with a easy way to try them out (themed sample boxes) and I stayed a customer because the owner seems to really have fun formulating new experiments in fragrance which translates to a fun experience for me as the buyer too.
I truly enjoyed this documentary. Thank you ❤
I like at 41:38 how an older woman is telling two young woman what young people like. IDK just got a kick out of that irony.
nls8520 she might know
I agree, she probably knew very well. I think her wisdom and experience also told her the name of that fragrance was very bad. I am 50 and love rose patchouli scents. It looks like the time and work they took to develop the product was wasted on that terrible name they picked. For marketing to young people, Hilfiger could have taken a page out of Lush company's book. They are genius with the younger set. I wonder if there was anyone who initially told Hilfiger it was a terrible idea, or perhaps he is surrounded by Yes women and men -- that's what happens.
The young woman's expression said it all.
It's how all marketing and politics work...
yeah
young people.FROM HER YEEAARSSS !!!🤬 Not young people from NOW
Maybe one day Americans can focus on passion and creativity and not deadlines and mass production... in my opinion the House of Guerlain and the perfume masterpieces is true art and passion.
Want something that appeal to the younger generations? Make it strong, make it last, take PR 1 million for example.
Tommy Hilfiger: a lot of people working on a fragrance that smells like a cheap shampoo. Insulting to the craft...
Tommy has a couple good designer cheapies. I do not own any but I would buy Impact if that was the direction my collection went. OG Tommy was huge with the masses back in the day. I have about 80 fragrances mostly niché and my most complemented juice is Versace Dylan Blue. In my opinion the best designer cheapy of the ilk but a shampoo scent non the less.
So I guess now we know why the loud fragrance didn’t make any kind of an impact or impression. You had a scent created to appeal to a target group. Everything was conceived around a concept music and fragrance. But the process IMO was done backwards. Start with a fragrance and then determine what it conveys. Trust me when I say. I’m interested in the liquid gold in the bottle. I could give two shits about the design of the bottle. I’m paying for the beautiful scent inside and the memories it brings back.
Really enjoyed this complete documentary. It really does show a new perspective on the creation and emotional affect that fragrances have. Especially in Brazil! I had no clue that Brazil and China were the game changers in the perfume industry. I do agree with the Brazilians as I like the fruity sweet scents. I've been expanding my perfume collection within the last few weeks and hope to develop my collection even more so I'm really getting into the whole "I want my body to have a personal elegant aroma". I'm so excited to continue with this journey. I hope I find my signature scent real soon!
Thank you for this upload.
How is China and Brazil game changers?
Wearing Shalimar from 80's.
Resins, Vanilla, Smoky Birch, Orris, Rose, Jasmine - this IS truly LOUD! Lol
I am a perfume enthusiast, and from what I observed most people don't like patchouli
I love patchouli.
DARKKISS me too, but when i wear it lots of people whinge or make “dirty hippy” jokes... it seems to be a divisive scent...
I like it alot. It really calms my stress level.
It’s THE hallmark hippie fragrance note too so to feature it in a “rock” fragrance is baffling. At least go with some tobacco, leather, black pepper, ambergris, musk… deep complex smoky scents, not “guys look I just went to LUSH”
If I could work with/for either Guerlain or Estee Lauder/Hilfiger, I'd go with the former. Even if it were to fade as a relic of yesterday's artistry, I'd rather spend my energy there. The flashy bottles and design, while creative, doesn't give me the same feeling. One seems more like a novelty, while the other makes me think about ancient perfumes and colognes, or that worn by Marie-Antoinette, or timeless fragrances.
I wish my first perfume at 12 was Guerlain, damn it.
Same, I wore Juice Bar body spray that smelled like Gummy bears when I was a kid...lol
lifeofcarrot me too! I think my first perfume was Charlie
Mine was a pink barbie bottle at 10 and then kind of nothing :D
Mine was Charlie! 😂
lol mine was when I got married at 24
Shalimar, Bal a Versailles, L'air du Temp are complex and elegant. I haven't found any recently made perfumes to rival them.
I watched this documentary when it first came out and my back went on edge looking at LOUD i knew it was never going to be anything but a cheap fragrance that would end up discounted in a low end store. When mr Hilfiger said are the bottles going to look like this he was thinking oh god this is tacky. he should have sacked all the yesmen ! Never assume young people are tasteless , they are not and they want quality and stylish bottles of fragrance just the same as a person who can easily afford chanel and dior. Understated bottles often look classic and are perfect if the juice is top notch, no 5 has a plain glass bottle, its taken 70 plus years to change the bottle to limited edition red glass.
yupp.... exactly
I love how he casually says "shit happens" in reference when they got bombed in 1944 during war 34:30
I adore Thierry Wasser immensely. I am VERY jealous of him. His job should be MINE!!!
Uuh ja, Guerlain is one of my 2 absolutely favorite perfume houses, no other Designer and also no other niche one, tops for me my memories the i had with mon Guerlain, Shalimar, their privat line, i just have to have every fragrance that they create, they are all Master pieces!!
I am so glad new small indie brands are raising up like black Phoenix.
you have to have one hell of an excellent nose to be professional perfumer.
I always been fascinated by perfumery. how incredibly complex sophisticated adjust.
I like the idea of making a perfume out of the things that did or do surround you. I don't know of a perfume anywhere that exemplifies the beautiful smell of petrichor (and I'm sure many have tried), but I would snatch it up in a heartbeat. I smelled it as a child while scrubbing potatoes and after the rain fell in the dust outside of my home.
Honestly, and I understand that perfumes need a base, but I'm tired of these basic ingredients cropping up constantly in ready-made juices (ie: patchouli, sandalwood, rose, bergamot, etc.). It's a shame that perfume is hardly an artistic luxury now-a-days, but loudly mass marketed like common toothpicks. Where's the heart?
Have you smelled Moss base? I think could be closest to what you described.
I made one from burnt custard and wine, called "Pudding Mishap" but no one bought it
Watching this I thought, "Loud is gonna fail....horribly." Then I look it up... of course. No wonder I never heard about it.
Oooh la la. I just got Arpege🖤 yesterday my first vintage. Jeanne captivates me with her stunning designs and talents. She was a powerhouse! Ahead of her time. Very interesting and intriguing woman. The black Classique bottle that she created for her daughter's 30th birthday. It is my favorite because of the art deco mom and daughter getting ready for the ball.O looked on Google and found the actual pic of the two and cried. Mother and daughter love. ..it smells like an beauty's boudoir a scent of times gone by. It smells baby powdery and wistful. I won't wear this fragrance until I am much older ( by then it will be an antique over 100 years old) , but I will treasure it. 🖤
OMG!!!!! the Americans claim its the bottle and the marketing!!! We lose the whole point.I would gladly take my perfume in a dark glass bottle! I even keep a back stock, scared that I may lose access to it. PASSION is perfume
The Europeans loves to criticize Americans yet they can’t take 1 step without using Americans expertise & creation/invention!
@@morningstar8669 chill actually it comes from Arabian country’s you all stealing to from. Especially the bottles
@@morningstar8669 Exactly!
@@morningstar8669 the french already forgot that they would be speaking German and eating sauerkraut if it wasn't for the Americans
@morningstar8669
To be fair we would still be British and saying God save the King if it were not for them…
In the 70's as a child I loved my Tinkerbelle perfumes.
I feel the same way about fragrance as I do about fashion - love the creative processes, dislike the marketing and selling, what was coming through to me was some degree of inauthenticity, obsequiousness and cringe.
I've been collecting perfume since I was 6 years old, and the French have the correct attitude about how perfume should be made, worn and "marketed". I find what people are doing nowadays, (putting one out and pulling it from the "market" several years later), to be cheap, horribly disappointing and frankly infuriating! Since Avon pulled Today and Always from their selection, not to mention Charisma and Occur, they were extremely short-sighted and an outrage! Always is one of my favorites of recent years, and now, it's gone. Obviously Avon has dessacrated its standards to selling what's popular "now", forgetting that some of those older perfumes were what made them so successful in the past. Even some of the lighter but still sophisticated French perfumes by Christian LeCroix (Fantasque for example) were removed, and I loved it. It smelled almost like Chanel 19. Always, which was introduced in 2004-2005 was one of the most delicious and femanin fragrances I've come across in years, and it's a shame Avon no longer sells it. My Avon lady is in her 80s, and Charisma was and is still her favorite fragrance by Avon, and like me, she found many of the newer fragrances to be too loud, irritating to the nose and eyes, and some perfumes can even turn people away from one another rather than bringing them closer. Frankly, I believe that this may even reflect an attitude of "I want (you) to notice ME!!!" It's like screaming to draw attention to yourself reguardless of the fact that it's offensive to others, and God forbid you do that in church. Perfume should express that you want to attract others to you in a positive and "friendly" way, what I like to refer to as inviting others to make friends and/or establish a healthy relationship with you.
Occur! A fragrance I recently discovered and absolutely love. I purchased a couple of bottles from eBay.
That strawberry tart story was awesome 😂😂
"...the ladies don't do flirting or squirting". 😂😂😂
Gucci Pour Homme 1 & 2 - simple bottles, amazing fragrances.
Dior Homme intense / Homme Parfum - simple bottles, amazing fragrances.
Mont Blanc - Indivuduel - simple bottle, amazing fragrance.
screw bottledesign, deliver good juice instead... and STOP reformulating.
Tommy hilfiger, what a douche. Arrived 15 minutes late to a very important meeting, didn't even bother to shake hands with the 3 people who worked for him, and how did he smell the fragrance?.... on a damn paperstick.
Everyone knows that if you really want to smell a fragrance, you must apply it to the skin, because it changes scent by the warmth and oils of the skin...
J'Adore by Dior is really great, I love it :P Lovely bottle and Amazing fragrance :P
Dreez76 Dior's private collection, even more simple bottling, even better scents. Tom Ford's private line, most plain looking bottles ever, but legendary in the perfume community.
I Avoid Walking into Macys because its Disgusting How the Sales people Attack you while you are browsing !! soooo Annoying !!!!but I guess they work on Commission and they are under a lot of stress to make numbers , but Still I find it sooo disgusting how aggressive they are!
I think I’ve only gravitated toward one Tommy Hilfiger fragrance and it was amazing. I forgot the name. But this “loud” rock n roll route are for unsophisticated youth. Kids are more sophisticated in this 2022 moment. Which is why we gravitate toward brands like breydo and maison Martin margiella. We don’t want to damn gimicky bottlE UNLESS it’s complete original and organically created not forced. I’m a 22 year old living in NYC AND I love fragrance. The Shalimar fragrance sound interesting to me because it sounds more authentic and integrity
Old niche houses like Diptyque and L'Artisan are worth looking into if you want sophisticated scents, if you have a higher budget, Frederic Malle and Amouage. And old Guerlain creations survive to this day are all very great, better than certain 300+ USD niche or "exclusive" ones.
Well to be fair, it was launched in 2010 haha. I agree, the youth today are attracted to brands like what you mentioned. Micro influencers also boost the marketing of the brands.
Love scents and SCENTS-a-bilities. Love this one. Thank you very much.
Lol...posh French kid chooses a perfume called Insolence...
Funny, indeed. That segment could be a lead-in to a coming-of-age movie about the turmoils of being average in a world of privilege and artifice. ; ] Great sense of tradition, though. This is a classically top-shelf BBC piece.
Better posh than basic
spidaminida It would of been better if she had worked or saved for the perfume, it would make her appreciate it more!
LMAO
LOVE this documentary. I’m a perfume lover, always was since I was a kid. Lavender is my olfactory memory of my grandma bathing in it. I’m Brazilian, everything they said about Brazil and perfumes is true. The sight of that bottle of Mugler’s Womanity gave me the headache the perfume used to give. I wish they would bring back Chaumet and Armani Sensi but for now I’ll be spending all my money on Xerjoff.
Loud - "the rock and roll rose perfume." Really? No wonder it failed. Those people need to get out of Manhattan more often...
I visited a Guerlain shop a few hours ago for the very first time. I am transformed ❤️