My beautiful only child, a son, was taken from this world a week ago when he was in a motorcycle accident. The grief is crippling. I pulled out some of his things from the guestroom where he frequently stayed ...opening the closet, I inhale. It's him. It's the leather slip on boat shoes he'd kick around in. It's the dove shampoo he washed his thick shiny dark brown hair, it's the herbal smell of the deodorant he used, and it's the musky, warm and expensive whiff of whatever designer cologne he wore last or a mixture of several. I stand there with my eyes closed and lose myself for a second and I smile. But I don't linger, I close the door tightly , to preserve that uniquely him scent ...and when my heart is heavy ..I'll visit him again through those smells.
I’m so very sorry. A grieving mother’s pain is a unique one, that exists at the most profound depths of the human experience. Pardon the indiscretion but if you’re a person of faith or lean at all towards the mystical- the example of Our Lady, every image of her bearing a face of resignation to the sorrow that she knew would come…in a way that’s the fate of every mother, one way or another, at one moment or another. To be a mother is to stretch the capacity for human love to its full plenitude, and likewise can it mean the worst disconsolation. I will say a prayer that you be granted the strength to live with this. Bless you.
I kept my father’s blanket for many years after he passed for the smell. On occasion, I gave it a whiff and it took me straight to childhood with him. Occasionally I still smell him, now that I am the age he was when he was raising me; we smell alike
Quentin Bisch featuring as a young dude with no previous experience in studying chemistry, yet he goes on years later to be one of the best noses in the industry with several fantastic perfumes released to the public under his name.
My favorite qoute. “Perfume is always an art about time. It takes time to create it. It takes time to think about it. It takes time to really have it on the skin telling its story. All of those things are about time. And in the modern world, time is a luxury that is not cheap.”
Quentin Bisch said that his dream is to smell one of his perfumes on someone. I was in a high-end perfume shop just yesterday and smelled a few of his creations. Bravo to him for making it happen!
When the beautiful lady said the perfume reminded her of first love and how men have not lived up to the fantasy of what the perfume evoked.. was very powerful and emotional
Very true. I have yet to find a women that has lived up to expectations or that can compare to the female fragrances that I love so I wear them myself. Its the flaws in us humans
My mum died 26 years ago. I have a little pot made of a compressed paper (that's the only way I can describe it) that houses my mum's rouge, whenever I want my mum I just have to smell it and I'm with her again. I love that little pot of memories.
I think it's weird how people accuse Christopher Brosius of being 'pretentious'...how is it pretentious to admit that you like smells like dirt, gasoline, bacon, crayons? Most perfumers won't go near 'daily' smells like that. His packaging, labels, website, and marketing look basically homemade - you can tell he's never hired a marketing consultant to sell his perfumes. He just strikes me as someone who only cares about making smells that he likes. And he knows that he's good at replicating specific scents from life. Seems straightforward. It's weird how his style seems to make some people feel threatened...
No: he’s pretentious because he’s a self-congratulatory ass. He’s not doing anything remotely original or revolutionary, he’s just copying what Demeter Fragrances has been doing since the mid-90’s
Quentin Bisch strikes me as the most loveable person. I was surprised to realize I own a couple of his brilliant creations, apparently, I love his style.
that Quentin guy, the lanky student, has gone on to create his own scents for, among others, l'etat libre d'orange. so his professor was spot in in recognizing his raw talent from the get-go
+Tal Mamatov Hey do you know off hand what scent Quentin created for Etat Libre D'Orange? I liked Quentin the most out of all the students at the school...I just bought a perfume sampler from Sephora of ELDO & love everything so far!
Perfumery is an art. A language. A musical composition. I appreciate a good parfum, like a book, it takes you on a journey. It tells a story, from beginning to end. A love story, a tragedy. Light and darkness. Pleasure or pain. It is eternal.
You're fortunate that you can smell this, and appreciate the subtleties of smell. As you get older, your senses get dull; your ears can't hear high frequencies, you need glasses, and your nose loses precision.
It has now been 9 years. Are you still into fragrances? I got into it about three years ago and wonder if it will be a lifelong obsession. It feels like it.
@@FervidFeline Yes! Some of my favorite perfume houses are Viktoria Minya and Byredo. I keep my collection small but I do still enjoy perfume very much.
even though he's a little eccentric, CB seemed more honest and creative than the rest of the perfumers. i think he was on point about the effect a perfume has is related to the memories that surround smells for particular people. that anglophile guy gave me douche chills.
***** it's not that i think the others are not creative; the ability for them to recognize and combine particular smells must be a difficult skill to develop. i just thought they seemed obscurantist or almost mystical about perfume making.
If Brosius wanted to collect an olfactory library of 'English' fragrances and odours, he'd have done well to have gotten out of London. London is not 'England'. It's just a city. If he wanted a proper old English waft of odours, he ought to have gone to visit some old stately homes. There's a very specific smell in them and I've never figured out exactly what it is or where it originates. Wood polish? Tapestries aging? I have no idea. But yeah, if you want 'musty old England', that would have been a great place to start. London pubs don't smell like little pubs in small hamlets that farmers and their wet border collies and black labs go to. Even antique shops smell different in Portobello Road than they do in, say, Oxfordshire. Wet box hedges after a summer rain, also very English. Tea Shops on Devon farms...the list goes on. Shame he had either time or financial restraints.
@@JustinHight-hl6uu That's true. I just find it odd. London has no distinguishing smell. It's a congested, overpopulated city filled with smog, exhaust fumes from buses and cars and rubbish. I'm unsure what on Earth anybody would value in it's olfactory offerings. Filthy cities with loads of road traffic are the same everywhere and there's no charm in inhaling decay and phenolic odours of industry. Perhaps a connoisseur of diesel fumes WOULD be thrilled? Outside of London, well, now you're talking. That's where you smell the Nation, culture, landscape and history. Wet pavements?! Damp concrete?! Polluted waterways?! All the English smells he was after are not London smells to me. If you want to smell wet tweed or wet wool mixed with wood panelling and a fire, go North in winter and have a pint with the local farmers and inhale the glory that is a water-logged black Labrador. I'm curious what melange of odours other fragrance fans are so excited about when thinking about central London. I blow my nose after I arrive home from a day running errands in London and the tissue fills with grey-tinted snot. I wash my hands when I get home and the water runs brown. London can be great fun but the fragrances inspired by London are laugh out loud ridiculous. At least Tom Ford got it right by making it smell like traffic. Widian's London smells like Ombre Leather or Black Line by Mancera. I laugh to think of someone thinking London smells like sugary handbags.
"Alcohol is risky and dairy is a no no.." over a decade, and how things have changed in our olfactory appetites! Wonderful film to follow the noses I love and see and hear about their journey ❤.
This whole documentary warms my heart. Fragrance chemistry is a passion of mine. It was my favorite thing to study in my major in undergrad. Maybe someday I will have the honor of learning at one of these schools.
My father bought me a bottle of Paloma Picasso when he went to London on a business trip back in the 80s. I felt very grown up wearing it as a teenager, and by god I still use it today. Love it! ❤️
I recently retired from almost a half-century of working in fine fragrance & makeup. Anything that makes one feel a bit more self confident, interesting, or exciting,,,,why deprive one of it. I agree with Coco Chanel..."A woman is not completely dressed without fragrance."
Christopher Brosius's adventure to London reminds me of when I was travelling from England, often in west Canada or tropical places, returning to UK landing at the airport, the air always smells of mushrooms, moss and damp forests. I really like CB's angle on scent.
I have used your "In the Library" scent for years. My absolute fav! Thank you x 100! I keep one of your "I Hate Perfume" pamphlets in my "Perfume" Movie DVD case, for giggles. Extraordinary movie. Have you seen? Actually sprayed "library" on my sheets before hopping into bed and then serendipitously found this video. Yum.
I love perfume, smells, fragrances, bouquets, aromas scents, everything about this genre inspires me. Watching this certainly assisted me, In my journey, as well as deepening my understanding :)
The art of creating a scent people will wear is fascinating. It reflects the wearers; characters and tastes like the music coming from their stereos and the way they've decorated their homes. And some perfumes have the power to change your state of mind, to transport you, to even cast a kind of spell. But I don't think I'd want to smell like old books or beef. By the way, was that cooked beef?
If someone would have told me a year ago, that my next hobby would be perfume, I would have laughed. But now, it's practically an obsession already, after just a couple months or so! I went from having a bottle of Banana Republic Vintage Green, that I bought from the outlet mall last summer, and not being able to name a single perfumer, to now having bottles from fragrance houses like Louis Vuitton, Argos, Tom Ford, Bond No 9, Maison Margiela, Jean Paul Gaultier, Prada, and Paco Rabanne. My favorite perfumers are Quentin Bisch, Alberto Morillas, and Jacques Cavallier. I love the new Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau "Paradise Garden" by Quentin Bisch, and his more classic works like Carolina Herrera "Good Girl" and "Very Good Girl". I love the Louis Vuitton fragrances from Jacques Cavallier, like Ombre Nomade and Pacific Chill and Attrape-Reves.
Christopher Brosius and I Hate Perfume is exactly what got me into this stuff. I never liked perfume untill I smelled niche. Demeter is another good inexpensive example hes done some work for.
34:38 i surely was humbled and a little bit shut down in fear. i've loved cologne since 7-8 years old. i've always wanted to make my own. i know i will make something beautiful some day, but this moment of ability is certainly to strive for
Not to mention certain people from an era, or even a certain 'you'. Dior's Fahrenheit reminds me of a lovesick boyfriend who turned almost into a creepy stalker. He had a goatee and had no idea how to wear denim. Terrible images come flying into my mind like Dracula flying through the open window by moonlight, cape flashing in the midnight wind. No Fahrenheit sniffing for me! 🤢
I love Jean Claude Ellena creations, Specially those that carry citric-leafy-sweet-woody-animalic accords. They uplift me, making me literally feel the presence of a herbivore, and how it brings me such a joyful company sensation on the olfactive sense journey. I'm walking on a grassy lemon field, then I see a horse close to me, I caress him and he wants to follow me on this field. Together we see a colorful and fragrant sweet flowery field. But then, as I am barefoot, we can feel humid and cold earth and how its perfume mixes with the forest's green and woody scent. Then we say goodbye, and I still can sense the herbivore natural scent. I have dinner, do some stretches and then go to bed. The next morning, I want to live that wonderful olfactive journey again.
To Ramenkuri: I'm not certain, but judging from the color and size of bottle, along with the gold label, I believe the scent the woman is wearing is "Soir de Paris" or "An Evening in Paris," released originally in 1929 and owned previously by Chanel. Any other interpretations on the scent within this clip are welcome.
He really needs to work on his speech. Its not because he's gay, its simply the exaggeration and inability for restraint and how he adds the unnecessary rattle at the end of every phrase. He's a person who can't be taken very seriously as a result.
This Chris brosius guy is missing the point of his assignment. What that fashion designer was really referring to was a type of England that lives in old gentlemans houses - like old dudes sipping brandy in smoking jackets by a fire with their hounds at their feet after a day of hunting pheasant, rain and gloom outside, apples and walnuts on a platter.
+Aaron Arabian He also said that the smells of the pub wouldn't translate into a wearable fragrance. But he wanted to make his home smell like 19th century England, not himself.
Was he? The guy seemed satisfied with it. Plus if he ever thought anything was wrong he could say "I'm thinking more along the lines of XYZ" Plus we don't see all the accords used, but we see some and they all fit what he wants Brosius mentions tobacco absolute which then Crowley mentions smells like a pipe after you've smoked it. Which is what he wanted, there was likely some of his "In the Library" which smells like Old Books which is what Crowley was okay with, I saw "Old Fur Coat" which is actually very nice and smells very "fusty and musty" much like the fabrics that Crowley wanted possibly without the violet accord in it. Brosius mentions Fire Wood, Gin, etc. The guy probably got exactly what he wanted.
I get where you're coming from. There's an entire sub-sub-sub genre within the niche fragrance world of 'fragrances that smell of old books/paper'. There are so many trying to recreate a library smell or the smell of antiquarian bookshops or just fresh paper. Lune Feline by Atelier des Ors has a really specific 'old childhood book' smell. I actually gasped when I first smelled it on my wrist. There are certain old vintage books I come across in storage, in second-hand bookstores or just on my own shelves that have an extremely specific sweet vanilla spice smell. I always wish I had someone who specialises in historic publishing or some other niche interest on speed dial so I could ask them what that smell is as I've smelled it all over the world when I crack open certain old books. Is it the ink of a certain era? The paper? What is the precise chemistry behind that rare and unmistakeable odour? Arrrrgh, too many arcane mysteries in the world, too little time...🤔📚⏳
Perfumery is more of an art than a science is something i have found since getting into perfumery. I am so excited to be able to make and share my unique line with the world
Haha! I love this. There are certain fragrances that smell like Los Angeles to me, all the small indie boutiques I visit each time I go there. I wonder how these particular fragrances would smell to someone who had no memory attached to them, nothing they reminded them of? It's like understanding language as you're reading each word rather than seeing smudgy, black noodles all over the page: you'll never know how your native language looks to someone who can't read it. Same with fragrance. I love certain fragrances because they unlock extremely specific memories and so it makes me happy to return to a person, time or place. Same as most fragrance lovers...we all wonder what these 'memory unlockers' smell like to other people. We'll never, ever know. What a spectacularly beautiful mystery.
And then there are those who are not refined in mannerisms and speech. They do not speak with French accents, or with flowery vocabulary. But they have a certain genius. They know what smells lovely, and can articulate through creativity. How would these ones be able to express their talents in a corporate world where verbal communication is so necessary to be understood? This documentary leaves one feeling that the world of perfumery is one of clicks, psychological games and manipulation of the human psyche. Are there any brilliant perfumers that do not possess social grace that we could see included in these documentaries?
The sweet smell of jelly (jello) and cold rotisserie chicken in the fridge reminds me of my grandparents ❤ the smell of wooden furniture and architraves that leak the 1960s into the room quietly in the background. Heaven.
35:44 Brilliant use of 'Golden Brown' by the Stranglers, a timeless early 80's song about longing & desire. Put 'Golden Brown' on repeat & it's its own kind of perfume....
Music and sound, and visual stimulus, that evokes memories for me. Scent does not connect to my memory at all as far as I can tell. Which may explain why I’m not your average fragrance buyer/wearer. Most fragrances these days seem to be a mess of lab chemicals.
The woman at the 15-minute mark describing the fragrance in the silver bottle...what is it? I can only see FAHRE- so naturally I want to say Fahrenheit by Dior, but the bottle is making me uncertain...Anyone know?
Its Dior Fahrenheit. It can be confusing because Fahrenheit has a red bottle but the one she has is just Fahrenheit in a limited edition anniversary bottle.
I don’t mind people wearing any scent they like, but what bothers me is when they are drenched in said scent. I am very sensitive to smells and when people go overboard, I get an instant headache.
Totally! I've had a few experiences in grocery stores where someone is wearing so much perfume that you can smell them a few aisles away. It also makes me wonder what they're trying to cover up. I feel like perfumes should be more of an intimate experience.
I'm not sure why Americans have this obsession with "clean scents". They're terrible. It's far better to smell complex, deep and mysterious. Clean says nothing about a person other than the mere suggestion of hygiene.
alook somelooks Yes! I'm glad you understand. I wear complex scents, usually in the woodsy, smoke, incense categories and my friends just don't get it. They think Agua Di Gio is the most amazing thing ever created. Makes me sick.
Justin Hopkins smoky / incense scents are my favourite behind the very obnoxiously intoxicating booze-y but sweet scents! My friends also don't get it and think I'm insane- the hopeless ingrates.... It's funny you actually mention agua di gio because it's one of those scents were for some reason people who wear it don't think it's just enough to wear normally but instead feel the need to douse themselves in it where it's so cloying that any interaction with them brings a grimace onto your face. Why must I suffer because they have no taste lmao? You seem like you have cool taste! what's your fav fragarance!?
alook somelooks Tell me about it. I've met people who reek of Victoria's Secret perfume and think it's "upscale". I can't stand it. They just don't know any better. Also, I can't stand when men talk about how Aqua di Gio gets all the girls. I'm like not any girls with taste! This is 2016, shouldn't men want to wear a fragrance they like instead of what's going to get the girls? Ridiculous. My first niche or upscale fragrance was Tom Ford's Oud Wood back in 2008. I've kind of moved on now but it will always hold a special place in my heart. Right now I'm obsessed with Diptyque's Tam Dao and Oud Palao. Unfortunately, Diptyque discontinued the Tam Dao soap, so I've been searching every online store and buying them all. The soap is amazing and compliments the fragrance, or sometimes just gives you a more intimate feel when you don't necessarily want projection. I've also been wearing Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood and Nasomatto Duro. I also can't get enough of Byredo Gypsy Water. That's about as close to sweet as I can get. I try to stay away from gender specific fragrances though because I feel like unisex fragrances have more mystery. What about you!? :)
Justin Hopkins OK, you have an in-depth knowledge of niche fragrance that I can only hope to one day acquire myself! you put me to shame : ( I'm somewhat young (19) and I consider myself novice to niche fragrance if you will. However I gave myself a pat on the back for recognising 2 of the fragrances you mentioned lol im learning. I hate to backtrack and bring up Penhaligon's again but my current favourite fragrance is from that house- 'Tralala'. Masterminded by Bertrand Duchaufour it garners mixed reviews but it's so peculiar and alluring I wear it everyday. I love how it's not cheap in any sense of the word yet it smells like a caricature of a 'cheap' scent created by an american flapper dancer in the 20s- it's great I love it haha! but It's not in their shops anymore however you can buy it online still. I want to only wear scents like that. It's not a million miles from Guerlain's Shalimar and also Chanel no.5 but I wouldn't have thunk it. Do you think a house like Penhaligon's is a good house to start with developing my nose for niche ('up-market') fragrances?? I work part time in Harrods when I'm not in uni and there is the salon de parfum on the sixth floor but its quite intimidating so I am yet to actually go up there and smell anything... That's where they keep all the extremely niche luxury fragrances from houses like Roja Dove, Xerjoff and Henry Jacques, etc.... Do you have any experience with them do you think it's worth it for me to go that far in the deep end? Where do you think I should look to next for development? Also whats your background with fragrances? (do you work for a house? are you a nose? chemist? just very particular? I wanna know!)
Monfort's is an enourmous slaughterhouse in Greeley, Colorado. They boil the blood off. The whole town smells like BS. After a while, you get used to it.
This is fascinating! I have a nose that can smell pregnancy and even if someone is stealing,I can pick up the 'scent' The perfume people make with their bodies is emotional,so right, and it's the pheromone emitted from fats and salts in the body, linked with the hormone
@@mntcrisis no, Fahrenheit 32 is different, I’ve got the bottle. It Looks like Fahrenheit Edition Limitee, but there was totally shiny silver bottle with cap. But here it’s black 🤔 I guess it’s just some knock-off she got)
My beautiful only child, a son, was taken from this world a week ago when he was in a motorcycle accident. The grief is crippling. I pulled out some of his things from the guestroom where he frequently stayed ...opening the closet, I inhale. It's him. It's the leather slip on boat shoes he'd kick around in. It's the dove shampoo he washed his thick shiny dark brown hair, it's the herbal smell of the deodorant he used, and it's the musky, warm and expensive whiff of whatever designer cologne he wore last or a mixture of several. I stand there with my eyes closed and lose myself for a second and I smile. But I don't linger, I close the door tightly , to preserve that uniquely him scent ...and when my heart is heavy ..I'll visit him again through those smells.
I am so sorry, I wish you a lot of strength..
I’m so very sorry. A grieving mother’s pain is a unique one, that exists at the most profound depths of the human experience. Pardon the indiscretion but if you’re a person of faith or lean at all towards the mystical- the example of Our Lady, every image of her bearing a face of resignation to the sorrow that she knew would come…in a way that’s the fate of every mother, one way or another, at one moment or another. To be a mother is to stretch the capacity for human love to its full plenitude, and likewise can it mean the worst disconsolation.
I will say a prayer that you be granted the strength to live with this. Bless you.
My mama heart is breaking for you. There are no words to say, I just wanted to send my heart across cyberspace to you.
💔
@@darklysparklingdownthestream I appreciate your comment so much. It's my first Christmas without him.
I kept my father’s blanket for many years after he passed for the smell. On occasion, I gave it a whiff and it took me straight to childhood with him. Occasionally I still smell him, now that I am the age he was when he was raising me; we smell alike
Quentin Bisch featuring as a young dude with no previous experience in studying chemistry, yet he goes on years later to be one of the best noses in the industry with several fantastic perfumes released to the public under his name.
For real… it’s so crazy
The fact he went from that to being the creator of scents such as Ganymede and B683 in such a short amount of time is astounding
@@Figureight I know right? and now I wearing his creation! Insane
I just ordered a bottle of his new Gucci cologne, "Guilty."
orange zest to. a true under dog talent.
My favorite qoute. “Perfume is always an art about time. It takes time to create it. It takes time to think about it. It takes time to really have it on the skin telling its story. All of those things are about time. And in the modern world, time is a luxury that is not cheap.”
Quintin was featured here as a new student. But now a renowned and very successful perfumer.
Yes, he is so passionate here, and now he is wonderful perfumer, my favourite.
Quentin Bisch said that his dream is to smell one of his perfumes on someone. I was in a high-end perfume shop just yesterday and smelled a few of his creations. Bravo to him for making it happen!
That's wonderful. A desire fulfilled is a tree of life.
When the beautiful lady said the perfume reminded her of first love and how men have not lived up to the fantasy of what the perfume evoked.. was very powerful and emotional
Very true. I have yet to find a women that has lived up to expectations or that can compare to the female fragrances that I love so I wear them myself. Its the flaws in us humans
What cologne was she holding in her hand?
@@GohAhweh looks like its Fahrenheit by Dior... but the bottle is a bit different
@@GohAhweh I think it is Fahrenheit 32 (Dior)
@marco_graciano I believe you are correct sir.
My mum died 26 years ago. I have a little pot made of a compressed paper (that's the only way I can describe it) that houses my mum's rouge, whenever I want my mum I just have to smell it and I'm with her again. I love that little pot of memories.
Try Yusuf Bhai in Dubai. He can replicate it.
I think it's weird how people accuse Christopher Brosius of being 'pretentious'...how is it pretentious to admit that you like smells like dirt, gasoline, bacon, crayons? Most perfumers won't go near 'daily' smells like that. His packaging, labels, website, and marketing look basically homemade - you can tell he's never hired a marketing consultant to sell his perfumes. He just strikes me as someone who only cares about making smells that he likes. And he knows that he's good at replicating specific scents from life. Seems straightforward. It's weird how his style seems to make some people feel threatened...
I agree 100%
I think if there is fault here, his perfumes may be too personal, too particular, too niche. I like his honesty and independence.
No: he’s pretentious because he’s a self-congratulatory ass. He’s not doing anything remotely original or revolutionary, he’s just copying what Demeter Fragrances has been doing since the mid-90’s
Quentin Bisch strikes me as the most loveable person. I was surprised to realize I own a couple of his brilliant creations, apparently, I love his style.
that Quentin guy, the lanky student, has gone on to create his own scents for, among others, l'etat libre d'orange. so his professor was spot in in recognizing his raw talent from the get-go
+Tal Mamatov Hey do you know off hand what scent Quentin created for Etat Libre D'Orange? I liked Quentin the most out of all the students at the school...I just bought a perfume sampler from Sephora of ELDO & love everything so far!
Tweezy786 la fin du monde. and quentin also created - i believe it's the most recent thing - ultra zest for mugler
Tal Mamatov okay cool thank you very much for responding! I am going to check them out today!
haha nice
I own '''Etat Libre Je suis un homme'' and I JUST sprayed it on my hand a couple minutes before reading your comment.
Perfumery is an art. A language. A musical composition. I appreciate a good parfum, like a book, it takes you on a journey. It tells a story, from beginning to end. A love story, a tragedy. Light and darkness. Pleasure or pain. It is eternal.
You're fortunate that you can smell this, and appreciate the subtleties of smell. As you get older, your senses get dull; your ears can't hear high frequencies, you need glasses, and your nose loses precision.
This documentary goes along nicely with my recent rediscovery of perfume. What a gorgeous profession. Thank you for sharing this documentary.
It has now been 9 years. Are you still into fragrances? I got into it about three years ago and wonder if it will be a lifelong obsession. It feels like it.
@@FervidFeline Yes! Some of my favorite perfume houses are Viktoria Minya and Byredo. I keep my collection small but I do still enjoy perfume very much.
@@1ballerina I’m happy to hear it! Perfume collecting is such a fun hobby.
Scents and music evokes memories unforgettable.
Nothing else can do that the way that fragrance and music can.
even though he's a little eccentric, CB seemed more honest and creative than the rest of the perfumers. i think he was on point about the effect a perfume has is related to the memories that surround smells for particular people. that anglophile guy gave me douche chills.
***** it's not that i think the others are not creative; the ability for them to recognize and combine particular smells must be a difficult skill to develop. i just thought they seemed obscurantist or almost mystical about perfume making.
Everyone knows that fragrance is related to memory it's not a great insight.
If Brosius wanted to collect an olfactory library of 'English' fragrances and odours, he'd have done well to have gotten out of London. London is not 'England'. It's just a city. If he wanted a proper old English waft of odours, he ought to have gone to visit some old stately homes. There's a very specific smell in them and I've never figured out exactly what it is or where it originates. Wood polish? Tapestries aging? I have no idea. But yeah, if you want 'musty old England', that would have been a great place to start. London pubs don't smell like little pubs in small hamlets that farmers and their wet border collies and black labs go to. Even antique shops smell different in Portobello Road than they do in, say, Oxfordshire. Wet box hedges after a summer rain, also very English. Tea Shops on Devon farms...the list goes on. Shame he had either time or financial restraints.
@@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293 but it was London he wanted
@@JustinHight-hl6uu That's true. I just find it odd. London has no distinguishing smell. It's a congested, overpopulated city filled with smog, exhaust fumes from buses and cars and rubbish. I'm unsure what on Earth anybody would value in it's olfactory offerings. Filthy cities with loads of road traffic are the same everywhere and there's no charm in inhaling decay and phenolic odours of industry. Perhaps a connoisseur of diesel fumes WOULD be thrilled? Outside of London, well, now you're talking. That's where you smell the Nation, culture, landscape and history. Wet pavements?! Damp concrete?! Polluted waterways?! All the English smells he was after are not London smells to me. If you want to smell wet tweed or wet wool mixed with wood panelling and a fire, go North in winter and have a pint with the local farmers and inhale the glory that is a water-logged black Labrador. I'm curious what melange of odours other fragrance fans are so excited about when thinking about central London. I blow my nose after I arrive home from a day running errands in London and the tissue fills with grey-tinted snot. I wash my hands when I get home and the water runs brown. London can be great fun but the fragrances inspired by London are laugh out loud ridiculous. At least Tom Ford got it right by making it smell like traffic. Widian's London smells like Ombre Leather or Black Line by Mancera. I laugh to think of someone thinking London smells like sugary handbags.
"A perfumer should be a mixture between a scientist and a poet."
I love seeing people starting out. Quentin Bisch has gone on to make some gorgeous fragrances. Charming to see him here near the start of his career.
He said, "artist, scientist, and philosopher." Very profound.
"Alcohol is risky and dairy is a no no.." over a decade, and how things have changed in our olfactory appetites! Wonderful film to follow the noses I love and see and hear about their journey ❤.
A field trip to study lavender and be inspired by it- goddamn I wish I was one of those people.
Watching this as I’m wearing Delina Exclusif, a Quentin Bisch creation. Bravo’
This whole documentary warms my heart. Fragrance chemistry is a passion of mine. It was my favorite thing to study in my major in undergrad. Maybe someday I will have the honor of learning at one of these schools.
Quentin made it big!!! Love his creations!!!
This was absolutely fascinating, the best episode out of the three, it was great to see Ellena at work and the idea behind I Hate Perfume :)
A favorite fraggie that has Tomato Leaf (and Black Currant), is 'Le Ombre Dan's Leau' (Shadow on the water) by Diptyque
The smell of beer, cigarettes, and sweat remind me of my father; A drunk.
The smell of urine and blood reminds me of my father when he beat me
Bacchanalia - I could smell his alcoholism. It seeped through his skin.
You forgot urine. Same here with the dad.
My memory is with Paloma Picasso and it will always remind me of my Aunt taking us on a family vacation to Washington DC. I keep a bottle of it now.
My father bought me a bottle of Paloma Picasso when he went to London on a business trip back in the 80s. I felt very grown up wearing it as a teenager, and by god I still use it today. Love it! ❤️
For me it's the smell and taste of fresh Parsley that reminds me of my grandmother. I miss her.
I recently retired from almost a half-century of working in fine fragrance & makeup. Anything that makes one feel a bit more self confident, interesting, or exciting,,,,why deprive one of it. I agree with Coco Chanel..."A woman is not completely dressed without fragrance."
omg... I just put in my notes I love tomato leaves and then he says it... love this doc!
I love the moment at 20:56.
Anglophile: "I have a mug"
Disappointed girlfriend: "Oh... another one" *nervous chuckle*
Christopher Brosius's adventure to London reminds me of when I was travelling from England, often in west Canada or tropical places, returning to UK landing at the airport, the air always smells of mushrooms, moss and damp forests. I really like CB's angle on scent.
I have used your "In the Library" scent for years. My absolute fav! Thank you x 100! I keep one of your "I Hate Perfume" pamphlets in my "Perfume" Movie DVD case, for giggles. Extraordinary movie. Have you seen? Actually sprayed "library" on my sheets before hopping into bed and then serendipitously found this video. Yum.
I love perfume, smells, fragrances, bouquets, aromas scents, everything about this genre inspires me. Watching this certainly assisted me, In my journey, as well as deepening my understanding :)
The art of creating a scent people will wear is fascinating. It reflects the wearers; characters and tastes like the music coming from their stereos and the way they've decorated their homes. And some perfumes have the power to change your state of mind, to transport you, to even cast a kind of spell.
But I don't think I'd want to smell like old books or beef. By the way, was that cooked beef?
13:30 - 14:10 : I believe Quentin Bisch will have had his creation Ganymede added to the Cabinet of Liquid Trophies by now...
If someone would have told me a year ago, that my next hobby would be perfume, I would have laughed. But now, it's practically an obsession already, after just a couple months or so! I went from having a bottle of Banana Republic Vintage Green, that I bought from the outlet mall last summer, and not being able to name a single perfumer, to now having bottles from fragrance houses like Louis Vuitton, Argos, Tom Ford, Bond No 9, Maison Margiela, Jean Paul Gaultier, Prada, and Paco Rabanne.
My favorite perfumers are Quentin Bisch, Alberto Morillas, and Jacques Cavallier. I love the new Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau "Paradise Garden" by Quentin Bisch, and his more classic works like Carolina Herrera "Good Girl" and "Very Good Girl". I love the Louis Vuitton fragrances from Jacques Cavallier, like Ombre Nomade and Pacific Chill and Attrape-Reves.
declaration by cartier made by jean claude ellena is masterpiece
Christopher Brosius and I Hate Perfume is exactly what got me into this stuff. I never liked perfume untill I smelled niche. Demeter is another good inexpensive example hes done some work for.
34:38 i surely was humbled and a little bit shut down in fear. i've loved cologne since 7-8 years old. i've always wanted to make my own. i know i will make something beautiful some day, but this moment of ability is certainly to strive for
Angel Muse is a masterpiece thank you Mr. Bisch
Jean Claude Ellena is far and away the best perfumer in the world at the moment.
+calbassas87 he is!
Maybe, but his 'Rosa Ikebana' smells like a melon on me. So it's all very subjective :)
He's definitely the best for simple citrus, and scents with few notes that are bright
Yes perfume bring back memories. Everytime i use Dior Homme Intense EDP the scent reminds me my adventurous freedom happy college era.
Not to mention certain people from an era, or even a certain 'you'. Dior's Fahrenheit reminds me of a lovesick boyfriend who turned almost into a creepy stalker. He had a goatee and had no idea how to wear denim. Terrible images come flying into my mind like Dracula flying through the open window by moonlight, cape flashing in the midnight wind. No Fahrenheit sniffing for me! 🤢
I love Jean Claude Ellena creations, Specially those that carry citric-leafy-sweet-woody-animalic accords. They uplift me, making me literally feel the presence of a herbivore, and how it brings me such a joyful company sensation on the olfactive sense journey. I'm walking on a grassy lemon field, then I see a horse close to me, I caress him and he wants to follow me on this field. Together we see a colorful and fragrant sweet flowery field. But then, as I am barefoot, we can feel humid and cold earth and how its perfume mixes with the forest's green and woody scent. Then we say goodbye, and I still can sense the herbivore natural scent. I have dinner, do some stretches and then go to bed. The next morning, I want to live that wonderful olfactive journey again.
thanks for getting them on youtube
OMG the dud on the bus watching that perfumer sniffing the seat! LMAO
What year is this documentary is from? Quentin Bisch is already on track to become one of the greatest perfumers in history. Dedication at best.
2008 or so
I Hate Perfume is TRULY amazing. I love it.
And in 10y after that, Quentin Bisch created the biggest sellers for Perfume De Marley, Amouage, and Marc Antoine Barrois.
I feel there is so much more to explore in the worth of scents and how they interact with the brain
To Ramenkuri:
I'm not certain, but judging from the color and size of bottle, along with the gold label, I believe the scent the woman is wearing is "Soir de Paris" or "An Evening in Paris," released originally in 1929 and owned previously by Chanel. Any other interpretations on the scent within this clip are welcome.
Another excellent video. Looking forward to seeing more! Congratulations ...Keep up the great work !
Is the guy from I Hate Perfume just John Malkovich doing a bit?
John Malkovich is not that pretentious!
He really needs to work on his speech. Its not because he's gay, its simply the exaggeration and inability for restraint and how he adds the unnecessary rattle at the end of every phrase. He's a person who can't be taken very seriously as a result.
@@AlexGargilisChannel I actually loved the way he speaks...sounds very posh English. ..but confusing as he also sounds very gay
Quentin Bisch. What a beautiful man.
This Chris brosius guy is missing the point of his assignment. What that fashion designer was really referring to was a type of England that lives in old gentlemans houses - like old dudes sipping brandy in smoking jackets by a fire with their hounds at their feet after a day of hunting pheasant, rain and gloom outside, apples and walnuts on a platter.
Earl grey tea being brewed nearby
+Aaron Arabian He also said that the smells of the pub wouldn't translate into a wearable fragrance. But he wanted to make his home smell like 19th century England, not himself.
Was he? The guy seemed satisfied with it. Plus if he ever thought anything was wrong he could say "I'm thinking more along the lines of XYZ"
Plus we don't see all the accords used, but we see some and they all fit what he wants Brosius mentions tobacco absolute which then Crowley mentions smells like a pipe after you've smoked it. Which is what he wanted, there was likely some of his "In the Library" which smells like Old Books which is what Crowley was okay with, I saw "Old Fur Coat" which is actually very nice and smells very "fusty and musty" much like the fabrics that Crowley wanted possibly without the violet accord in it. Brosius mentions Fire Wood, Gin, etc.
The guy probably got exactly what he wanted.
Aaron A. I agree, the guy who wanted the "English" smell hadn't necessarily been to England he wanted an idealized version of it.
I get where you're coming from. There's an entire sub-sub-sub genre within the niche fragrance world of 'fragrances that smell of old books/paper'. There are so many trying to recreate a library smell or the smell of antiquarian bookshops or just fresh paper. Lune Feline by Atelier des Ors has a really specific 'old childhood book' smell. I actually gasped when I first smelled it on my wrist. There are certain old vintage books I come across in storage, in second-hand bookstores or just on my own shelves that have an extremely specific sweet vanilla spice smell. I always wish I had someone who specialises in historic publishing or some other niche interest on speed dial so I could ask them what that smell is as I've smelled it all over the world when I crack open certain old books. Is it the ink of a certain era? The paper? What is the precise chemistry behind that rare and unmistakeable odour? Arrrrgh, too many arcane mysteries in the world, too little time...🤔📚⏳
Perfumery is more of an art than a science is something i have found since getting into perfumery. I am so excited to be able to make and share my unique line with the world
I also find that Fairy washing liquid is something that really reminds me of England.
Haha! I love this. There are certain fragrances that smell like Los Angeles to me, all the small indie boutiques I visit each time I go there. I wonder how these particular fragrances would smell to someone who had no memory attached to them, nothing they reminded them of? It's like understanding language as you're reading each word rather than seeing smudgy, black noodles all over the page: you'll never know how your native language looks to someone who can't read it. Same with fragrance. I love certain fragrances because they unlock extremely specific memories and so it makes me happy to return to a person, time or place. Same as most fragrance lovers...we all wonder what these 'memory unlockers' smell like to other people. We'll never, ever know. What a spectacularly beautiful mystery.
"Absolutely Awesome"
Thank You...
Smell is wonderful & mesmerising ❤️ A beautiful experience choosing a perfume & so personal ❣️
Just BEAUTIFUL and so spiritually scented :)
The alternative perfume guy is channeling Tim Gunn.
+Oleander Pink And absolutely annoying.
he is unbearable , and I'm gay ....
Spot on. He so does.
Oleander Pink - An insult to Mr. Gunn.
When you close your eyes, you could swear that it was him
And then there are those who are not refined in mannerisms and speech. They do not speak with French accents, or with flowery vocabulary. But they have a certain genius. They know what smells lovely, and can articulate through creativity. How would these ones be able to express their talents in a corporate world where verbal communication is so necessary to be understood? This documentary leaves one feeling that the world of perfumery is one of clicks, psychological games and manipulation of the human psyche. Are there any brilliant perfumers that do not possess social grace that we could see included in these documentaries?
No.. because you need to be a POET &a scientist.. remember? & Poetry takes grace with WORDS. Stick to computer programming Aspie.
I think you meant clique not click. 😏
@@sissyrayself7508lol brutal
great documentary even for people who are not into fragrances !
The sweet smell of jelly (jello) and cold rotisserie chicken in the fridge reminds me of my grandparents ❤ the smell of wooden furniture and architraves that leak the 1960s into the room quietly in the background. Heaven.
awesome documentary
I LOVE this video... !
Hmm ... Quentin Bisch has done Ultra Zest by Mugler and Le Male Essence de Perfume ... way to go, dude ...
Liam Woods Jacques Huclier also created Ultra Zest with him.
35:44 Brilliant use of 'Golden Brown' by the Stranglers, a timeless early 80's song about longing & desire. Put 'Golden Brown' on repeat & it's its own kind of perfume....
Quentin Bisch:A Men Ultra Zest,Angel Muse,Bad Boy,Le Mâle Le Parfum,One Million Parfum and many more
Sandalwood, rose, oudh, Amber, musk, wood, spice, opium, leather, Jasmine, citrus, lime, lemon, tide, grapes, cardamom, cinnamon, coffee, chai, tea, patchouli, nagapanchami, pine, New cars, I can go on forever....
To match
Wurst
a superb out look very creative minds..
If you close your eyes and listen, CB sound EXACTLY like Tom Ford!
As I view this documentary I'm thinking about the movie PERFUME😊
Thank you so much! I couldn't remember for the life of me!
Music and sound, and visual stimulus, that evokes memories for me. Scent does not connect to my memory at all as far as I can tell. Which may explain why I’m not your average fragrance buyer/wearer.
Most fragrances these days seem to be a mess of lab chemicals.
Tomatoe leaves smell amazing childhood memory or not.
21.00 old teddybears and old books with a touch of good tobacco he wants!
The woman at the 15-minute mark describing the fragrance in the silver bottle...what is it? I can only see FAHRE- so naturally I want to say Fahrenheit by Dior, but the bottle is making me uncertain...Anyone know?
She probably got it a long time ago. So it is a new bottle.
FAHRENHEIT BY DIOR - It used to be wonderful but I believe they have tinkered with the formula
@@lynngill5344 they did mess up the formula in the 2010s but restored it as of late
Its Dior Fahrenheit. It can be confusing because Fahrenheit has a red bottle but the one she has is just Fahrenheit in a limited edition anniversary bottle.
thanks for this
I don’t mind people wearing any scent they like, but what bothers me is when they are drenched in said scent. I am very sensitive to smells and when people go overboard, I get an instant headache.
Totally! I've had a few experiences in grocery stores where someone is wearing so much perfume that you can smell them a few aisles away. It also makes me wonder what they're trying to cover up. I feel like perfumes should be more of an intimate experience.
14:28 - Rachmaninov's piano concerto no.2 2nd movement :)
I'm not sure why Americans have this obsession with "clean scents". They're terrible. It's far better to smell complex, deep and mysterious. Clean says nothing about a person other than the mere suggestion of hygiene.
+Justin Hopkins you're so right! i hate all "clean scents" they all smell like lemons, salt water and a lack of imagination
alook somelooks Yes! I'm glad you understand. I wear complex scents, usually in the woodsy, smoke, incense categories and my friends just don't get it. They think Agua Di Gio is the most amazing thing ever created. Makes me sick.
Justin Hopkins smoky / incense scents are my favourite behind the very obnoxiously intoxicating booze-y but sweet scents! My friends also don't get it and think I'm insane- the hopeless ingrates....
It's funny you actually mention agua di gio because it's one of those scents were for some reason people who wear it don't think it's just enough to wear normally but instead feel the need to douse themselves in it where it's so cloying that any interaction with them brings a grimace onto your face. Why must I suffer because they have no taste lmao?
You seem like you have cool taste! what's your fav fragarance!?
alook somelooks Tell me about it. I've met people who reek of Victoria's Secret perfume and think it's "upscale". I can't stand it. They just don't know any better.
Also, I can't stand when men talk about how Aqua di Gio gets all the girls. I'm like not any girls with taste! This is 2016, shouldn't men want to wear a fragrance they like instead of what's going to get the girls? Ridiculous.
My first niche or upscale fragrance was Tom Ford's Oud Wood back in 2008. I've kind of moved on now but it will always hold a special place in my heart. Right now I'm obsessed with Diptyque's Tam Dao and Oud Palao. Unfortunately, Diptyque discontinued the Tam Dao soap, so I've been searching every online store and buying them all. The soap is amazing and compliments the fragrance, or sometimes just gives you a more intimate feel when you don't necessarily want projection. I've also been wearing Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood and Nasomatto Duro. I also can't get enough of Byredo Gypsy Water. That's about as close to sweet as I can get. I try to stay away from gender specific fragrances though because I feel like unisex fragrances have more mystery.
What about you!? :)
Justin Hopkins OK, you have an in-depth knowledge of niche fragrance that I can only hope to one day acquire myself! you put me to shame : (
I'm somewhat young (19) and I consider myself novice to niche fragrance if you will. However I gave myself a pat on the back for recognising 2 of the fragrances you mentioned lol im learning.
I hate to backtrack and bring up Penhaligon's again but my current favourite fragrance is from that house- 'Tralala'. Masterminded by Bertrand Duchaufour it garners mixed reviews but it's so peculiar and alluring I wear it everyday. I love how it's not cheap in any sense of the word yet it smells like a caricature of a 'cheap' scent created by an american flapper dancer in the 20s- it's great I love it haha! but It's not in their shops anymore however you can buy it online still. I want to only wear scents like that. It's not a million miles from Guerlain's Shalimar and also Chanel no.5 but I wouldn't have thunk it.
Do you think a house like Penhaligon's is a good house to start with developing my nose for niche ('up-market') fragrances??
I work part time in Harrods when I'm not in uni and there is the salon de parfum on the sixth floor but its quite intimidating so I am yet to actually go up there and smell anything... That's where they keep all the extremely niche luxury fragrances from houses like Roja Dove, Xerjoff and Henry Jacques, etc.... Do you have any experience with them do you think it's worth it for me to go that far in the deep end? Where do you think I should look to next for development? Also whats your background with fragrances? (do you work for a house? are you a nose? chemist? just very particular? I wanna know!)
I'd love to know what is the perfume that the lady at the end of the episode loves.
Evening in Paris. Discontinued. You still can buy it on eBay (as low as $20). I have it. It is a lovely perfume. Old school but 100% wearable.
Could listen to Christopher Brosius talk about the inspiration for his fragrances all day.
is there a scent that smells like rain hitting hot asphalt??
If you're reading this what beautiful fragrances have you discovered lately?
Monfort's is an enourmous slaughterhouse in Greeley, Colorado. They boil the blood off. The whole town smells like BS. After a while, you get used to it.
Thank you for sharing. 15:55
The England guy just wanted the smell of an old guy that smoked a cigar then walked into an antique store
The English guy or the British guy!
Baldini - John Guichard
Jean Baptiste Grenouille - Ouentin Bicsh
Lmao, I hope bicsh didn't killed any women for his parfumes
What's the song used in 16:09? Absolutely nice and very fitting.
Dianne reeves - I remember sky
What a bad decision to give Q. Bisch a chance. Now everywhere is akigalwood, lavender and clary sage. A loss for perfume creativity ..
Does Someone knows the name of the song at 35:44 ?
Golden Brown by The Stranglers.
This is fascinating! I have a nose that can smell pregnancy and even if someone is stealing,I can pick up the 'scent'
The perfume people make with their bodies is emotional,so right, and it's the pheromone emitted from fats and salts in the body, linked with the hormone
Anyone knows the song at 1:31 (it ends at +-2:30). What is the title? Many thanks for help.
Strange Little Girl - The Stranglers
15:32 - what Fahrenheit is this? 🧐 I’ve never seen this before
Fahrenheit 32, perhaps?
@@mntcrisis no, Fahrenheit 32 is different, I’ve got the bottle. It Looks like Fahrenheit Edition Limitee, but there was totally shiny silver bottle with cap. But here it’s black 🤔 I guess it’s just some knock-off she got)
christopher brosius is so cool
14:53 to the woman in the video. I think your beautiful then and now.
What was the woman holding in that bottle? What was that boy wearing?
"The smell of a marker...All these things smell terrific" lol
great! Have considered Master Class
30:00 Sauvage, Shirley Mar (????), Terre d Hermes.
I want to know what the second one was.
Shalimar
That sunglassed guy is a sniffer 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂