Which is better: 48V or 52V battery?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- Learn how to build your own ebike with my book The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide: a.co/2Yys1kf
Or check out my second book - DIY Lithium Batteries: a.co/jcc2OzV
The parts that I use for building batteries:
18650 cells (Sanyo GA 3500mAh): goo.gl/J6ONJV
18650 cells (another Sanyo GA 3500mAh source): goo.gl/f10wHH
18650 cells (Samsung 26F 2600mAh): goo.gl/VhpP7T
18650 cells (Panasonic 18650B 3400mAh): goo.gl/fvwJZQ
18650 cells (Another Panasonic 18650B): goo.gl/tVjREI
18650 positive insulating washer: goo.gl/HBVOuc
Ebike battery cases: goo.gl/W2DLmE
Nickel strip: goo.gl/VIrNQq
Spot welder: goo.gl/KN3Uaw
BMSs: goo.gl/S6gSQx
Silicone wire: goo.gl/xmpbKD
Black 18650 cell spacers: goo.gl/hQxWF6
Vruzend cell spacers: goo.gl/5ReLqA
Large heat shrink tubing: goo.gl/6v1ow9
Small heat shrink tubing: goo.gl/OU3Z6u
Foam sheet for protecting battery: goo.gl/5e71tE
Kapton tape: goo.gl/D6BT57
Chargers: goo.gl/js0T0V
**Question response book giveaway rules**
When you guys asks questions in the comments of my videos, I'll try to answer them. If there are questions that I think would make a good video response, I'll choose them to do a longer segment. If I choose your question for a video response, you'll win a copy of my book The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide (the paperback or the ebook), or my book DIY Lithium Batteries.
Here are some things that UA-cam makes me say: This contest is not sponsored by UA-cam and UA-cam isn't affiliated with it. I'm supposed to provide a link to the community guidelines for UA-cam (www.youtube.com.... UA-cam is not a sponsor of this "contest" and by participating, you are releasing UA-cam from any potential liability, whatever that might be. Privacy notice: I won't steal your info. If you do win, you can choose to send me your address so I can mail you a paperback copy of the book (or some other prize if that changes) or you can send me an email address and I'll send you a copy of the ebook. I will do everything in my power to immediately forget your personal information afterwards.
Music courtesy of Incompetech ("Groundwork")
Dude, your E bike battery building skills and overall knowledge are ELECTRIFYING! Thanks.
Was that a pun? 😉 ⚡️ ⚡️
A shockingly bad one
i love a youtube video that does nothing but teach you want you wanted to know...thank you sir!
And answers questions you'd need to ask after learning some.
I agree...
I was born in 78 and my gosh I agree.
Exactly what I wanted to say 🔥👍💚
I'm going to take on my first ebike build for my first buyer/customer. Your 52v vs 48v battery video was explained perfectly for me to turn around and explain to others. Thanks for the continuous education!
I love how easily you explained the difference in the 36 and 48 V batteries without without it being mind numbing or confusing. Great job! Thanks for the video.
Thank you much for making your videos. It's a huge help for a great grandma trying to figure all this out.
Rock and roll grandma!
If I go from 48v 12ah to 48v 17ah. Can I leave everythingelse the same.
@@donnguyen4100 yes it'll be fine, ah is just the capacity. It won't effect the inputs to a controller
@@donnguyen4100 yes.
Grandmas ARE great!
I'm only 4 years behind the times. Great video and information. Thanks Micah.
Hello, engineer here! A higher voltage battery does run slightly cooler, but it's negligible. This is because while it does draw the same amps, it gives you more total power, total watts, to the wheel. This means that you accelerate faster and thus don't have to pull that amperage for as long. Of course, if you're climbing up a hill at the max power continuously, then it's going to be equal, but you're just going to be going slightly faster on the 52 volt, but if you're at your top speed and the current draw has dropped below its peak, for any given required wattage to maintain your speed, the amperage will be lower on the higher voltage battery. In reality it really is just negligible, 52/48 - 1 yields the percentage difference...
In other words if you are climbing up a hill at constant speed mode somewhere around 70% load or less, and very specific situations, you can see that it draws fewer amps to maintain that speed. But in real world usage the way that most people drive it makes no difference
I have broard electrical experience thanks to my trade, but im new to ebikes. I have been researching for afew weeks now in preparation for my own ebike build, and having read many pages on forums and websites, and having watched dozens of videos relevant to diy ebike builds, this is only the second of your videos i have seen. You seem to very intuitively select the topics you address, and then you break them down very cleanly, and present the information in a way that is pretty easy for everyone to understand but simultaneously keeping a good enough pace for people who already have electrical experience. Great videos, im off to trawl through your back catalogue, cheers!
This really clear's up all my questions about the difference between the two voltages and the advantage of one over the other
Thanks for the information....great video ! 👍👍👍 I am 67 years old and test drove a Radrover in September 2018.......my Radrover is scheduled for delivery Monday Dec 3rd. Excited and looking forward to riding a bike again
48V is better to buy because they're more commonly available. 52V will get you more power but its not as common so you'll be paying an additional cost based on the economies of scale for the 52V.
Agreed. I bought a bike that uses 48v 14AH and it's a common battery case style found in many different internal battery e-bikes. Paid 325 for a second 48V 14AH battery on amazon. That same case style is also found in 36v setups and still fits my bike. Gotta love standards. 52v is only a few percent higher and not worth it for a non-standard voltage.
For all you complainers out there, the music serves a purpose! It masks the background noise which is far more annoying. The man's gestures also serve a purpose! They make it easier to communicate! Maybe you people should try making an outdoor video with no music and no gestures and see how many complaints you get in the comments
I just wanted to say thank you for all your videos. They have been a really big help figuring out the battery and controller needs, for the vintage electric motorcycle I've been working on.
I want to thank you very much for all the great knowledge, it first looked out of my range because i never did electro or something.
But i know that ... people can do anything if you really want it.
The first nickelstrips with shakey hands after that
i build a 36 Volt E-bike lithium pack with spotwelding nickelstrips and put BMS and LCD battery checker, with discharge limit alarm.
First thing was Safety to build the pack without becoming Frankenstein.
I am from the Netherlands , mostly the people rides bikes here and there is much rain.
The battery is great in all circumstances.
Your videos and information are very detailed and helped me.
Thanks 👌🙏
Thanks for the great explanation on battery difference between 48 & 52
Thank you ‼️
I'm an Older guy with some health limitations, doing my research on ebikes. Your videos have been very helpful and informative. From watching I've determined that I want a Mid Drive, with a Minimum of 750 watts motor. Step through frame, half or full throttle, I'd like to get 24" rims if they have them, with the fat 4" tires. Preferably foldable as I intend to get a boat and bring the bike aboard. Keep up the Great Content, the information definitely helps people of my age.
Stay Safe ‼️🙂
I’m looking to restore an old 48v Citicar and have found your videos more applicable than the DIY EV conversion ones given the uniqueness of my project. Thanks for making these available. Liked and sub’d
Awesome video, fantastic info, I just started building my bike and had a lot of questions about battery choice. Thank you for this video, it answered many of my questions. Some people are saying if you use a 52v battery with a 48v motor it would burn it up, but now I know differently. Im going with the 52v.
For me personally, the sweet spot is 36v 14Ah. I have the power I need and I can operate at speeds that are not life threatening to myself and pedestrians, while enjoying ~35 miles between charges.
Same here! 35miles? What kind of battery setup do you have?
Interesting. I have a DYU D3 running on a set up of 10.4ah ion Lith 36v, 250w brush less motor. I've been looking at a high spec battery, but not finding very much as yet. Needs to be same pack size to fit into unit. Unless I attached second external battery and run that through the same system?
Mike ,
I can’t thank you enough for your knowledge. I just retired from 40 years as an elevator technician.
I just turned 60 and Ebike mountain biking is my new hobby. I just found your site while browsing and thank god I did.
Welcome to Boston as I live 10 miles north
Elevator technicians have their ups and downs. 🤣
You talked at great length about power and speed but I (and probably many others) are more interested in increasing range. How that is valued by comparison would be of more interest...
Thanks for the great videos and information! Great channel!
for range update the amps
I just bought an Emove Cruiser E-Scooter with a 52v 30ah battery, and 600 W motor. Your youtube video has me interested in learning a lot more about this industry. Thanks.
This is really informative thanks for taking the time to put this together!
Straight to the point! I watched the whole clip without blinking! Keep it up bro! We need more people like u.
Yes, I really wish I had gone with 52 volt instead of 48. At that time I new nothing of lion batteries, very little about ebikes. Now almost a year later and two builds, one a hub drive and the most recent a BBSHD, I realise that I should have not been afraid to go 52. Amazing how much a man can learn in a year, and a lot of what I have learned came from the information you have provided Micah, thanks so much and keep doing what you do!!!
Thanks for clarifying this subject. I'm not an electrical engineer. You have answered my battery questions.
Another advantage of 52v over 48v is the depletion voltage of 2.5v per cell gives 35v over 32.5v respectively which means you don't feel as much of a sag in the bikes performance near the end of the charge.
voltage will sag more as you lose 1.3v *14cells instead of a drop of 1.3*13 cells. your end voltage is 2.5 higher though.
This is why your batteries don’t last long...... a 3.7v battery will charge to 4.2v. If you only use your battery till it’s about 3.7v per cell, it will last so much longer. Lithium batteries are very tough.. the best way to shorten their longevity is by running it till the voltage is below 3.5, though most people will run them until each cell has 2.5v... running your batteries that low is the reason that most have to replace their batteries within a year and the reason that their batteries doesn’t perform the same after a few weeks of ownership.
Ahh. You just answered
My question? Thank you.guy
Can you explain, how two build my own battery pack?
someonespotato hmm won’t 52v burn more electricity than 48v
This is the first video I have found that explains the difference and what charger I will need when I upgrade. No one else explained at what level they are charged at.
You are well informed and you are an educator, but I worry this industry is 90% marketing. I think people noticed some of these 3AH + cells had to be run to very low voltages to get the amp hours out of the cells. So you ended up with low voltages at the bottom and the 52v was an offset. The difference between 20 amps at around 60 volts, and then down around 40 volts is HUGE. They could use DC-DC converters to maintain the voltage. I think this is a design flaw, or over-reaching on the tech. I have a $250 LiFePo from China, two years old, rated at 36v. It stays above 36v for 75% of the capacity. It stays above 36V drawing 750 watts. It seems to me it is a real battery. Those last two mph of speed are the ones that draw the most amps, at the top of the drag curve. Most factory bikes treat the owner like an imbecile. The idea is to never educate the rider to any aspect of electric power. DIY people tend to chase things that are very hard to design, at least if you want some long term performance.
Micah, you are just going to have to hammer away at the basics. People have a long way to go on this stuff. The tech is transformational, but the folks think it is a passive experience. There is a tremendous opportunity, in lithium and solar, for RV's and tiny houses, but it's hard to find the tinkerers.
George Sears Li-po's can ble flatter in terms of energy releasing, but they still heavy as fuck... 25ah 48v lipo is almost 10kg (3.2v 5ah 142g A Cell!).
With Li-ion you can do the same package with a higher voltage and a weight of 5kg only.
I have both and li-po can be a good option for a power wall but not foa a normal to light weight bike.
I have a trike with the 25ah li-po/crystalyte rear hub and no one can lift the bastard from the ground...
For some reason the whole car and bike industry is using Li-on
I have a question for you George when you say your battery is 36v over 75% of your capacity do you mean while drawing around 750w as I have a 36v 15ah bottle battery and even after about 4ah it dips below 36v when drawing about 750 ish watts and today after around 9ah it was showing 31.99 at 750 ish when not drawing any energy it returns to about 35v is my battery buggered its 2 months old and I follow all the charging guidelines 42v etc the battery didn't cut out below 32v either. I 've been using a watt meter for this info you seem to know what you're talking about it seems so would love to hear your advice and any tips. Many many thanks, Brannen.
No, it's probably not any kind of problem. A standard Lithium cell, more than one chemistry, has a pretty steep discharge curve. Early on it is at 4.2 V per cell and then, at the end, it is 3.0 volts per cell. So with a 36v battery, 10 cells, the voltage starts over 40 and drops to 30. The LiFePo4 has a flat discharge curve (so do hobby type batteries, the LiPo). So with a big power draw, the voltage will show maybe 34 volts, and then it goes back to 38 volts with no power. The more you draw the more the voltage will sag. Toward the end of the battery it pays to nurse it along with a few hundred watts, at most.
What is worrisome is when you draw 750 watts and the voltage just plunges, which normally will shut down the motor. You want to know how many AH you can draw to get there. It's good to know what the battery is doing and know what is normal. My older cells, like the 2000 mAh, hold voltage better than the newer high capacity, 3000 mAh cells.
These little meters are your friends, in the sense that you can judge the capacity over time, and you can rate you battery usage so you don't run out, on the fly. A little information, and a $20 meter, goes a long way.
Here's a discharge curve graphic (figure 2). It seems about right for standard lithium, not LiFePo.
www.richtek.com/battery-management/en/designing-liion.html
Thank you so so much for getting back thats helped put my mind at rest but I still dont understand why my battery didn't cut out at 31.85v as the BM has an under voltage protection and is it safe to run the motor at full load or should I try to keep it above 32v by feathering the throttle also how do I know my battery has given all it's capacity as it's 15ah and I don't seem to be getting any where near this as at 9ah its dipping below 32v at around 750w load. It just shows there are great people out there willing to share their knmowledge. Thanks
Thanks again, I just looked up the specs for my battery the cut off is 25v the cells are Li-ion 3.7V 2600mAh in a 10s5p I cant thank you enough. Cheers Brannen North Devon UK
Thanks for making every second count. Same as the last guy basically said…. I really appreciate how well put together your verbiage is. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you
I use a 58 volt battery (battery for an Echo weed eater from Home Depot) on a 48 volt / 1000 watt front hub motor on a bike. No problems and works great!
I get about 12 miles (on smooth pavement) on a full charge
58v on motor 48v and controller 48v also?
I love the way u explain ur self and am a ignorant fun of urs .now I have a clear idea on how I can upgrade my new ebike from 48v to52v.thank you.
Dude this is crazy! I just happened to be watching your video When at the end you hold up the book on lithium batteries that I'm currently reading! It was a great purchase And a really good read. I can't wait to finish it and start building my own packs. You most definitely have a new subscriber!
Man I'm so glad to have come across this brief tutorial on aspects of power for my e-bike. I'm riding on my 20" fat tire 48v, and I'm looking for the best method of upping its' performance. I'd love to have the chance to score one of those invaluable reference books so I can learn all about not only e-bikes, but also battery builds and meeting power demands.
Great information. Just listening through enabled me to make a good informed decision concerning the planned conversion of my recumbent trike (AZUB) to a battery powered cruiser. Thanks.
After just installing a 52v battery I can say it is definately worth it. It was only 20 bucks more over a 48v from Aliexpress. Best 20 bucks I've ever spent. There is almost no appreciable voltage sag compared to the 48v until you get pretty low. At 48v nominal compared to a 48v battery you are down to 23 percent on a 52v so the vast majority of the battery power is above 48v. Climbs hills faster, faster acceleration, faster speed, can keep a faster speed for longer due to the higher nominal voltage and I can say to my friend "52 volts bitch!!" Also came with a really nice 3amp charger with a fan instead of the grim 2amp shit chargers you normally get with the bike.
informative video - thank you.
I'd be interested in a battery comparison that includes amp hours - example: 52V 14Ah vs. 48V 17.5 Ah
I'm interested the same thing too.
I have two options with same voltage but another is 20.8ah and another is 23.4ah, i would love to hear what this means in practice.
The learning curve here is huge. As a retiree with limited finances I am trying to learn as much as possible, as fast as possible, so I can make a good educated choice in my price range. Pretty much decided to buy a BBS02 kit and convert my 2008 Specialized “Crossroads Sport into an E-bike and now research which battery to get. Live in WV USA and will be riding very hilly trails. The Ebike guide sounds like a good place to start.
Your explanation helped me understand regarding different voltages, thank you!
Dude! You're amazing!!! Thanks for inspiring me to build my 48v 500w rear hub driven 26" Fuji mb kit that I have had for the past 3 years and absolutely no problems at all. You answered a question I had about upping my voltage to 52v but it wont be worth the extra money to get a few mph which is not the wise choice for a 58 year old to make, so yeah thanks for being so awesome! But I would live to check out that book you put out on building ebikes
На велосипеде несколько миль в час это большая прибавка в скорости, я поставил 52вольта батарею, скорость максимальная выросла почти на 5км час, на ходу это сильно ощущается, и тяга с места ввросла на 15-20%
Interesting information about the two battery voltages. I would think that on my new LectricXP, that has its 48 volt battery inside of the frame, that this is the only choice that I have in a battery. But, perhaps someday, as the battery technology advances, the voltages may change as well. Thanks for the great videos and keep us up to date, please!
I still can't understand what you are talking about it all goes over head
Fully charged it displays 54 ish.6 or so
Excellent job explaining E-bike battery technology.
My first e-MTB was with a BBS02 48V 20A with a 13s5p battery. I was happy with this set up, but felt that on some occasions I wanted more power and range. When I switched to the BBSHD (48V 32A) last summer I went for a 14s9p battery and it's made a huge difference. It's pretty flat where I live and I use 100-275W of power most the time, boosting on hills, against headwinds or rough, muddy or sandy terrain. Mostly I do around 40-60km a run, on occasion up to 100km. I find that with this battery, I'm always in the "good" part of the battery charge, i.e. above 48V. Also if I do hammer the battery, it seems to bounce back a lot better than the other one. Obviously the strain is now shared over 126 cells instead of 65 on the other battery. With the drop in prices, it only cost me 100€ more too!
More great instruction for we new e-bike owners so thanks again.
My E-CELLS 2 wheel drive, two 52 battery e-mountain bike needs only MORE RANGE because its mainly for hunting and camping.
I love the fact Micha dives into the minutiae of the Battery industry.
"Much respect"very professional You explaining all aspects of the e-bike world in a format that is very thorough in breaking it down where anybody with half a head on their shoulders can understand. Thanks
Excellent explanation of batteries keep up the good work
I'm about ready to buy an E Bike I've been looking at videos for about 6 months I really appreciate your video it helps a lot
Thank you for taking the time to explain the difference. Do you have a video on motor wattage differences?
Hey.....great video!!!! .....i'm now getting into this battery building hobby/backup power /solar energy/ebike lifestyle.... i do have limited knowledge on the subject but learning a lot from you.....keep the videos coming.....
Unless you went the same speed as were going with the 48 volt so now you'll be getting longer range.
What i was going to ask
Yea, from the math alone you'll get longer range. a 52v battery pack has more energy than 48v battery pack, it's just that simple. Also you get extra power and speed if you ever need them.
The Top Gear guys enter chat: Why on Earth would you want to do that? POWER!!!
hey man, can i use a 32v battery on a 24v controller? will it damage my controller & motor?
If you open the controller up the capacitor will say what max volts is.
@@joseureste8257 thanks!
Dude...i can't stop watching these. I need 72v but if I can do it myself, ima go for 90v.
Creepy-Smile-1 Non
Thank you so much for explaining that in layman terms, it certainly answered some of my questions. The concern I have is that some controllers may not be able to handle '52V', people need to be aware of that as this increased voltage will damage some controllers/displays.
Thank you
52 volt also helps when you are on the Heaviside to go up hills.
Definitely, more voltage also means more torque
So, increasing voltage increases both max speed (linearly) AND torque (proportionally to square root of voltage, IIRC)
A battery book would be nice. I have watched all of your videos and I will be building my batteries soon
Considering that one can charge these batteries to a slightly lower voltage to extend their life, would it be appropriate to get a 52v battery but charger it with a charger meant for 48v batteries?
Grant ... i am going to weigh in on this and give you a bit of good advice with charging/ discharging these lithium batteries. Firstly do the math with what you doing ... or proposing on doing in respect to the total charging value.
52v battery pack is going to have 14 18650 cells in direct series (well actually the best and longest live zone is to pair 3 18650 in parallel series and theneach group in series. Total 42 cells
Sorry anyways the math:
48v / 14 = 3.43v While the nominal voltage is very commonly shown and calculated as
3.65 volts (3.65*14) =51.1volts
4.2volts is peak 58.8volts
FYI - Grant the best idea is actually to stop using the battery where your charging stops. And charge it full again to 58.8volts and actaully about halfway discharging is going to increase its longevity and performance. By only charging it to 48volts is actually quite terrible for these types of batteries, and your wrecking it Also fgully discharging ---> full charging is not great either. In both case these practices should be avoided!!! FYI
Great info for a guy like me that is just starting to look into converting my 2000 model year Trek mountain bike to electric.
Hi Micah, I am a fan of your videos. I have a question related to this video. I have a 36v battery. Would I see the same benefits described here if I use a 40v battery (11s) instead of a 36v (10s)? Provided that my controller should draw only 36v, would I also experiment a larger capacity/range (everything else equal), given the higher Wh figure? Thank you in advance for your time
Good question I would have thought the speed controller would go nuts thinking its overvolting, sorry I'm still learning, I was going to buy a new controller one of the 36v 48v ones, that have a self-learning wire that tells the controller if you have a 36 or 48v volt battery or just the phase of the motor not 100% sure I need to do more reasearch, thenat a later stage when the warranty runs out to add a 16v battery to my 36v battery to get 52v does the controller shut down? So can anyone help us both?
Being a retired Veteran on a fixed income would love to have a ebike just to go to the mail box with. I have mountain bike wish i could afford a ebike kit. Living in a trailer park my mail box is like a 1/4 mile down the hill an ebike would make it so easy to get the mail. Getting Old is no fun. Great Video!
The music is really annoying!
Do it yourself. Ebike Guide I think I need one. Thanks for sharing your knowledge mate.
Right-on, thank you; I'm just getting into this. Very helpful!
Thank you. For great info. What are the ranges of discharge?
I would like to see a video about battery building and where to get parts and supplies, thanks for your great videos.
11 minutes on the difference between 48 & 52v batteries?
3 second answer: about 10% 😘
only 7%, you didn't watch the whole video, did you ?
speedsterh yes actually but was kinda long , I guess in this Information Age we want the bottom line quickly ! Thx for the video🤗
It's hard to cater to all audiences. I know about batteries, but nothing about ebikes, so a lot of this information was useful to me though I could have predicted the difference was marketing in the end.
Thanks. I have a 52v battery. Good to know the differences.
what are your thoughts on lifepo4 batteries on e-bikes i might just use this type when the Li-ion battery goes out thanks
I have purchased your DIY book and really enjoyed the videos. I’m new to ebikes but love anything I can modify thanks for the education.
I'm 2 days away from my Flux Capacitor being ready
1.21 Gigawatts reaching a top speed of 88mph
Rip bro
see you in the future bro
Mo powa baby!!!
... GREAT SCOTT!!
Every video you make, makes me smarter! Thank you, sir!
Thanks for sharing! We’re very far, but very enthusiastic with the advent of this new era for transportation, social and environmental commitment, and the bicycle itself. Please keep educating!
Hey Mikey, appreciate the nice explanation. I have a question for you. My esk8 has 2 hub motors rated at 1000w each. That seems crazy to me because I see lotta ebike conversion kit motors rated at about 500w on the more powerful range. Can you please clear this up?
Peak wattage and sustained wattage might be the difference, i know power inverters that peak at 1000 but can only sustain 750 for long periods of time.
Excellent video in my quest to learn more about DYI my own while. Thank you
Here’s a little example for you all of two bike companies and the batteries they sell:
RadPowerBike 48v 14Ah $499 RadRover
Juiced Bikes 52v 21Ah $1699 Rip Current
shadowdance4666 Hey I’m deciding between these two exact bikes. Any recommendations from you or anyone that has some experience with these would be greatly appropriated. Thanks
cdriz1 Well, I bought the RadRover. The extra battery is $550 when I bought it. My advice is keep it dry. Mine weirds out when wet. Like shuts down. Can’t speak of juiced. My real thoughts on hindsight are at least for me. Get a bike with a mid drive motor. Don’t get a bike with 4” tires. Around 3” or under is fine. 750 watt motor minimum. Not a 750 watt peak like Rad. I live amongst hills. 48 volt is ok. 52 volt is best. 16 Wh or higher for power or distance. Hydraulic brakes a must. Regenerative braking if you can get it. Adjustable regen is cherry. I would like a full suspension. Spend at least 3K but not over $4,750. That’s the point of diminishing returns. I know more now and wish I saved more but, I was impatient. I had fun and learned though. The RadRover isn’t that great off road. Extremely heavy and I’m not a small guy 190. It’s clumsy if you’re going the cheaper route the RadCity might be a good choice. It has regenerative braking. Mild regen. 1 miles recouped after 20. Or 5% from my research. Adjusting the brakes suck enough on manual brakes. That’s all I got. Good luck 🍀. I mean break a leg
nice & briefly put. well done
When people say you pull less current, they mean at the same speed, not at the higher speed possible. For example, if you cruise at 20mph on a 48v using 480watts, that is 10amps pulled. 20mph on a 52v is still going to take 480 watts which equates to 9.23 amps. 9.23amps @ 52v
I imagine he will fix this video and you fix your attitude
There is a lot of want to be Geniuses out there LMAO always gotta one up somebody shaking my head
Asinine male rivalry
I think his criticisms is justified, but it could have been expressed in a more polite way!
As long as you maintain your speed, or better, your energy usage, more voltage equals to less ampere, which in turn results in less heat ( because current/amperage causes to heat, not voltage. Voltage just causes more current to flow as long as you don't slow down)
If you can buy a profesionally built bike, a 72V battery is better for mountains and off road with high amps. it's kinder to the individual batteries, longer battery life, and it's less hot on the motor and the plugs. The official recommended limit for safe DC voltage that doesnt go through skin is 60v, so it's best if home builders stay under that. some garage guys even fry their wedding rings with 12v, so it's best to stay safe.
I just ordered a BikTrix Ultra with a 48x17.5. This was very interesting. I will wait until I get the bike to see if I need more battery. Thanks.
Please do a video on motor watt difference. Ex, is a 500watt motor better than 300watt?
You don't need a video. Its basic physics. Watts are a measure of electrical power, or 'work'. More work = more power from the electric motor. Naturally, more is better if you can afford it.
Given the efficiency of an electric motor, more power is generally a better idea (besides the common weight increase). If you use a 500w motor at 300w, it should be no worse for battery use than a 300w motor, but has the extra headroom if you need to pull more current, etc.
@@treebeard3579
Can't you just fucking say it without being condescending? Somebody asks a question be nice or don't answer let this guy answer the questions we don't need you to answer
@@Metal-Possum
Well said Alex will said
Do you kiss your mother with that mouth? :)
Thanks, I am new to the idea of the e bike and trying to learn what I need to know. Thanks again
Hey, what do you think of a home made spot welder?, recycled 18650 from tools and laptop batteries?, I have been watching your videos (I know you like to make only the top quality ebikes) but could you do a super low budget ebike build, just for the ones in the crowd that have little to nothing. thank you for everything you have thought me and others.
Luiz Silveira laptop batteries would work great just make sure you don’t run there voltages too low and get yourself a multimeter to check the health of each 18650
Luiz Silveira its ok
Luiz Silveira
I learned so much watching your videos. You have taken the mystery out of that magic black plastic thing plugged into my e bike. Thank You.
This technology is so primitive, my bike is powered by dark antimatter.
Mine is powered by an extension cord
I use USB, 😂
And still limited to 28mph lol
Mine uses electrical pulses fired into chunks of living muscle that directly manipulate the pedals and the controller is just some gray matter housed in a bone sphere, all internally routed cables. It’s a mEbike
dark antimatter? isn't that against the law?
Thanks for the clarification between 48V or 52V batteries
Very helpful. I am building a hybrid bike front ebike wheel (48 volt 1500 watt, with a gas motor driving both back wheel (trike) through a limited slip differential. I recently ordered a 52 volt 30 ah 1500 watt battery,(could not find a 48 volt 1500 watt battery) looks like in retrospect I did just fine, as I was worried about harming my wheel, not so now. Thank you for putting me at ease about my decisions.
Why not have the gas motor run a generator to Charge batteries then you could have unlimited range by filling the gas tank? People have tried using solar cells to recharge battery.
Thankfully, within 2 years or so lithium ion batteries will finally start becoming a thing of the past. So, what’ll we do when that time comes and we’re given the phenomenal ability to ride for 100-200 miles on a single charge, and then fully recharge in only 5-10 minutes.... I’ll be singing Joy to the World as loud as I can, and RIDING MY ASS OFF!!!
Tango Sierra I sure hope you are correct about that! Sounds great to me.👍
The same guy that Invented the Lithium-Ion battery has invented something better. Still early stages do not expect anything to hit the market for at least 4-5 more years. also China and Korea are both close to something..... or closer... I cannot account for the performance gains. On the other side of things In Britain super capacitors are a real prospect that may well blow everything else out of the water because it simply makes batteries in their current form redundant... imagine it taking a few moments to charge a bike fully and being able to do hundreds of miles at speed, pulling a trailer. and this is not fiction...
Celtic_Ape. Farfetched but not fictional and lithium batteries were developed from lead acid battery producers.,graphene capacitors are showing potential like you are describing but there are still none on the market,
Not as far fetched as you might think. My job is to test energy density and lifetime/runtimes I work for a drone company. things are happening. slow and steady.
Celtic_Ape. Thats my point changes usually come at a slow pace ,i built a timex Sinclair computer from a kit .in 1982,i got a black and white pong type game and a good calculator out of it,now my smartphone shows me pictures from a satellite
So much to take in but I have a little vintage 2 Stroke that I want to convert glad I found you
The best is 48v 500w and 48v 1000w power and u get 40 miles per charge think smart
Ray s ,what about 48V 1500 w with 29 Ah battery ?
@@normundsjelinskis3198 your battery will last the same as mine but go faster mabe u have a high ah rating
Clear information and well presented. Right now trying to decide if converting my mountain bike to electric or gas. Car die and live in Hawaii, so rains a lot, but its stupid not to commute to work by bike. Just need the extra power so don't show up to work sweating. Super hot and humid year round. Mahalo
52v will fry your controller quicker. too near the 60v max output at full charge.
dj james arundel I’m new to this what controller would you suggest for a 52v battery? I’ve fried 2 controllable so far
Husaberg R... I give up with it to be honest just had nothing but trouble..
Great video. Says what you need to know in least amount of time.
Your explanation of this is unbelievably awesome. It is so clear and makes so much sense, you are a legend. What about using a 72 volt battery on a motor rated for 48 volt?
Very informative battery video. Helps make a better decision when shopping.
Very nicely done, the music bed was just right and the information was very useful. Thanks again
Back in the day i would of bought the 52 for power and speed . I bought one for distance rather than speed and the 52 will get you quite a bit more distance with a like for like journey . I have a 48v 23A and a 52v 24A . I get 40km from 48V and 55KM from 52V..Obviously other variables can effect distance but there is a considerable difference . Hope this helps those that are interested in distance.. Great video, very informative, no faff ..Thanks.
Love your videos.i am a noob when it comes to e bikes and you have helped a lot
best knowledge I AM UPDATE MY 48V BATTERY PACK TO 52V SOON THANKS
52V battery has adventage of extra power from 57V to 59V after that same as 48V. Also cut off voltage needs to bring up for 52V. Thus span of fully charged battery, 52V has more power overall.
Excellent information. All I need to know to made an educated choice when putting an e bike together!
Will need a battery book soon. Thanks
I just got 2 new ebikes. Been riding ebikes for 7 yrs & have a few thousand miles on them. They have 48v16ah batteries. Our new bikes are 52v13ah batteries. I'm curious to see how far we can ride before the batteries are depleted. I could get 40 miles a few times on our 500w bikes. Our new bikes are 750 watt motors. Love this video. First time on your channel. Thanks.