Good shit bro. Does this work the same for the front? As far as the screw driver on the calipers? I did the fronts last month but didn’t know I could do that. I always have to bust out the c-clamps. I’m doing the rears next weekend.
The screwdriver trick usually works if the caliper is in good condition. C-clamps can overpower rust and other issues that often show up further down the road. If you need a c-clamp make sure to clean and rebuild everything you can access (pins, bolts, clips) I don't usually remove the piston, wouldn't recommend it unless you have a rebuild kit on hand.
I went to change the rear pads today on my 2011 Forester and noticed two things: the top hanger arm that the caliper swings up on does NOT move in and out freely like the bottom - it actually doesn't push in at all (probably seized). Swinging the caliper up on that bolt/arm was also *very* stiff. I also couldn't compress the piston in even with a pipe clamp. I tried releasing the parking brake and popping the lid off the brake fluid reservoir, but no luck. The piston in would move a tiny bit but not enough. I used to work on my STi (Brembo brakes) back in the day and never had these issues. :) Sad, because the pads on the Forester were stupid easy to install. Any tips or am I missing something obvious? Since I'm leaving for a week road trip, I just admitted defeat and threw the old pads back in and will tackle it later. Thanks!
Someone preloosened those bolts buddy. As long as I have been doing brake work, there is NO WAY any Brake hold sown bolt comes loose that easy. Even with anti seize. I know, I always use antisieze. Its my knuckles and since I do my own brake jobs.... Screw Car Fax too. Because you dont take a vehicle in to the dealer for service, doesnt mean the car was never serviced come trade in. I pretty much kept a written record in the back of my owners Manual as to what was done to my vehicle as well as the receipts for any parts I had to buy. Just because it is not an OEM alternator, or OEM brakes, doesnt mean it wasnt done properly. I REFUSE to accept a Carfax report as a major reason for buying a vehicle. I had a dealer try and low ball me on trade in because Car Fax showed my Forester had been in a previous accident BEFORE I owned it. As I state, as long as that vehicle was repaired properly, and no longer shows any signs or symptoms of ever being in an accident, that DOES NOT affect the over all value of the vehicle. If it does, then clearly, the vehicle was never serviced properly. Kelly Bluebook is the ONLY value I base my purchasing on. Car Fax can and does get fudged. Sure, its nice to read that the vehicle was maintained by Bob's Subaru dealership, until you find out later he was using chop shop parts. Or the service center was changing oil using regular oil, not synthetic as was ehat they lied and reported being used. The point is, even a supposed trustworthy report can be full of lies.
Couple of good tricks there. Thanks for sharing.
Good video and exactly what I needed, many thanks!
Excellent, This is as easy as American Cars, Thanks for a short to the point video!
Great video. Thank you. Also hilarious commentary
Nice video! What is the black "gel" you put at new pads at the end of the video and why? Thanks!
Did you have to push piston on caliper back in to be able to close it after put on the new pad?
Thanks for the video!
Wow they actually refinished a rotor. I’ve never seen anyone do it. They always say you’re better off buying a new one.
Do I have to worry about the e-brake?
Did you have to release the parking brake first?
Awesome video man.
Good shit bro. Does this work the same for the front? As far as the screw driver on the calipers? I did the fronts last month but didn’t know I could do that. I always have to bust out the c-clamps. I’m doing the rears next weekend.
Right? I’m going to do both on Thursday. Gonna try the screw driver trick
The screwdriver trick usually works if the caliper is in good condition. C-clamps can overpower rust and other issues that often show up further down the road. If you need a c-clamp make sure to clean and rebuild everything you can access (pins, bolts, clips) I don't usually remove the piston, wouldn't recommend it unless you have a rebuild kit on hand.
I went to change the rear pads today on my 2011 Forester and noticed two things: the top hanger arm that the caliper swings up on does NOT move in and out freely like the bottom - it actually doesn't push in at all (probably seized). Swinging the caliper up on that bolt/arm was also *very* stiff. I also couldn't compress the piston in even with a pipe clamp. I tried releasing the parking brake and popping the lid off the brake fluid reservoir, but no luck. The piston in would move a tiny bit but not enough. I used to work on my STi (Brembo brakes) back in the day and never had these issues. :) Sad, because the pads on the Forester were stupid easy to install. Any tips or am I missing something obvious? Since I'm leaving for a week road trip, I just admitted defeat and threw the old pads back in and will tackle it later.
Thanks!
Ah looks like I could have taken the slider pin out and regreased it (assuming I could even get it out). Now just need to figure out the piston.
The caliper may just be seized. You may need to replace it.
Well I’m just replacing pads. I slid old ones off, replaced hardware and new pads won’t slide. Mount back in.
What are you doing with the screw driver in the first step? Do you still need to bleed the brakes after or remove the brake fluid cap first?
+mvgwizz i dont remove the cap. And you only bleed the brakes if you open the brake line.
+mvgwizz pushing the piston back
wrecking some brakes!
After taking the wheel off, all you needed was that 14mm wrench?
Yep. That's it
🔥🔥
Just like that
I am doing a 2013 this weekend... is it as easy as the 2014?
+Christopher Bailey It's a breeze.
Thanks for the video... it was super helpful and full of humor! I'm glad I found you on UA-cam!
I thought youre not supposed to let the caliper hang by the hose?
Trevor V. Not for long.i meant to mention that
@@PlantsandProperties It was hanging there the entire brake job, even when you took parts to the work bench.Reminds me of when I worked at walmart.
Someone preloosened those bolts buddy. As long as I have been doing brake work, there is NO WAY any Brake hold sown bolt comes loose that easy. Even with anti seize. I know, I always use antisieze. Its my knuckles and since I do my own brake jobs.... Screw Car Fax too. Because you dont take a vehicle in to the dealer for service, doesnt mean the car was never serviced come trade in. I pretty much kept a written record in the back of my owners Manual as to what was done to my vehicle as well as the receipts for any parts I had to buy. Just because it is not an OEM alternator, or OEM brakes, doesnt mean it wasnt done properly. I REFUSE to accept a Carfax report as a major reason for buying a vehicle. I had a dealer try and low ball me on trade in because Car Fax showed my Forester had been in a previous accident BEFORE I owned it. As I state, as long as that vehicle was repaired properly, and no longer shows any signs or symptoms of ever being in an accident, that DOES NOT affect the over all value of the vehicle. If it does, then clearly, the vehicle was never serviced properly. Kelly Bluebook is the ONLY value I base my purchasing on. Car Fax can and does get fudged. Sure, its nice to read that the vehicle was maintained by Bob's Subaru dealership, until you find out later he was using chop shop parts. Or the service center was changing oil using regular oil, not synthetic as was ehat they lied and reported being used. The point is, even a supposed trustworthy report can be full of lies.
Id you have the right tools.
Eat animal protein
What a lousy mechanic. 😔
🤣🤣🤣🤣