In the video I show using the incorrect brake lubricant. It was a new product I saw and decided to try. Normally I use Permatex Ultra Disc Caliper Lube, in the green bottle. Saw and decided to try the Permatex Ultra ceramic brake lube, in the blue bottle. As comments have pointed out, and after later reading the bottle myself, the ceramic lube shown is only to be used on the brake pads, not on the slide pin, like the normal green bottle lube I use. Just a heads up for you viewers. Sorry for the bad info in the vid. I later corrected the mistake on the vehicle.
Looking at the Permatex website it seems like both the green and blue are for "metal to metal contact only". The red "silicone ceramic extreme" is the only one that says that it is safe for caliper pins and sleeve as well as "most plastic and rubbers". I guess now I am totally confused! www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-silicone-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant/
So question for ya. I jacked up the back of my car in a dumb spot and smooshed in a part of the underbody. Its one of the rails that runs down the length of the car maybe 12 inches in. It was a dumb move and I knew better than to jack it up in that spot but the jack i was using was this dinky little thing that made it tough to get back to the normal jack point. I'm pissed about it but do ya think it'll affect the car in any way? It's a 2013 outback 3.6r
Brake Parts Lubricant; 8 Ounce; This 100% synthetic lubricant contains real ceramic solids for extreme performance under the most critical braking conditions. A purple, environmentally friendly, non-melting formula, this premium lubricant is our longest lasting, most temperature resistant way to silence brake noise such as squealing and chattering; also effective in preventing long bolt and sleeve seizing and galling. Excellent on rolling and sliding surfaces operating in wet or dry conditions from -65F to 2800F (-54C to 1538C). This product assures that critical brake parts remain lubricated throughout brake pad life. Resistant to corrosion and contaminants, it will not wash out. It is compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber. Suggested Applications: Disc brake caliper hardware, bushings, slides, pistons, rubber sleeves and seals
Saw you tapped the rotor back onto the axle. I tapped my too hard and now the rotor sits loose pressed flush against the axle. If I put it back together and make sure it’s firmly against the axle hub. Is that okay? If not what should I replace?
Thank you very much for your meticulous detail in doing this job. I just replaced the front brakes on my 2010 Forester. Now I'm going to go back and do it the right way!
Hey man thank you for the video. Very helpful. 7:11 is super improvement and a step alot of people miss or skip. Also I learned something new at 5:32. That is a good tip/idea. Wonderful video as always. Just did mine today 👍🏻
Thank you so much! I’ve been wanting to learn how to do my front brakes myself for awhile and your video made me confident enough to try and it worked! Awesome!
Tackling this job on my 2002 Subaru Outback H6 tomorrow finally have the day off breaks just horrible calipers locked a lil bit brake pads trash rotors trash out with the rust in with the shiny stuff 😄 great vid
for the past 30 yrs on my cars i use anti-seize original or copper for lubricant, i compress calipers with channel locks. i did have to go on youtube to see how subaru brakes were done. did mine 3 weeks ago. one thing no one mentioned on the videos until i saw a female mechanic explain to how to put brake pad without bending the clip with the brake squeal thingamajig. yep i bent mine piss me off ended up cleaning original and works like a charm
Love how you have to use a special tool to push the two pistons back into the caliper. Ive been using the same Lisle tool for 25 years and now had to buy a new tool jus because of the two piston caliper.
This is a great video! Thank you. BUT, just a little additional advice. I did this job on my 2011 today and had some issues. Car has 92k miles, all of them near the ocean in New Jersey. Everything came apart fine. Obvious braking problems shown on both sides, with outer pad worn down to bare metal, inner pad barely worn at all. Had a lot of difficulty getting the new spring clips to seat properly on caliper carriers, and could not get the new pads to slot into position on the carrier...it was as if the pads were just slightly too long. I tried the old pads and the too were VERY tight in the slots, and clearly would not slide (hence the uneven pad wear). The issue was the 10+ years of salt causing enough corrosion on the carriers to narrow the slots and shorten slightly the opening length end to end. I tried to clean them up with a wire brush, a file and sandpaper. Still could not get the pads to fit and slide propertly. Finally I ran to AutoZone, bought new R and L front caliper carriers, and while I was there picked up new slider pins and boots. From that point, the rest of the job went smoothly and car is braking perfectly. Just thought I'd post my experience, maybe it will help someone someday.
I also had braking issues where my inner pads and rotor surface on the front were completely gouged. (I live in the Midwest where we also get lots of salt lol). Im thinking I will get new caliper brackets next time. Thanks!
Even better is to pull the rubber and clean it, and also the where the pin goes in and use a bore brush if the grease is super old and/or getting corroded. I love in ne pa so we see tons of rust here. However, no shop is doing this, or 1 in a 1000 shops will lube this part, let alone pull it all apart if in fact the grease is old af and hard. It then needs to be really cleaned. Anyway good video like always. I do my brakes on my outback specifically to do this as i know for a fa t it doesn't get done. The car i have is a 2010. Its been dealer maintained. It has gone in for brakes twice and resurfacing of the rotors twice and a brake check for something (idk it doesn't specify) 5 times to the dealer and whn i changed the brakes and rotors recently still had the original white yellowish grease that was hard and dried up in there. The bottom pins pn all 4 were stuck in. Unbelievable....
At 14:42 I can see that you put the Little spring clip I’m talking about correctly pushing out at the bottom it’s at the very bottom of the caliper in fact it looks like you actually put some lube on it, and it slides up against the pad clips but on the outside very bottom of the whole Assembly.
thanks for the great vid! I'm doing the front brakes on my '08 H6 tomorrow, hope it goes smoothly. Couple questions: - Do you need to remove the 12mm brake line bolt? Seems like it can hang out with that in place. I'm guessing it's just precautionary? - Is it worth scrubbing a bunch of rust off the calipers while they're off the car? Mine are pretty rusty. Seems worth the extra 30min but maybe it's only aesthetic? Thanks!
I wish. Haha. I was a Snap-on dealer for the better part of 5 years. Invested heavily as a shop owner before becoming a dealer. Wish I'd have waited. Could've gotten my tools at cost! 😭😭
Blessings and love my guy question I have 2016 legacy and all maintenance is up to date but my brakes will it cause a rattling when you drive have had the brakes 2 times only happens at 90mhp when doing a hard acceleration????? Any idea why only 85754miles
Dang I was hoping you would show the viewers the little spring clips that help keep the Pads away from the rotors when you’re not pressing on the brakes I had to figure that out the hard way lol.
I cant use that much grease where i live. The brakes would be an absolute mess. Doesn't matter tho, i use the platinum from advanced and they have rubber shims on them. They are absolutely the best pads made. Better then oem subaru for sure n the Japanese brand that starts with an Ak. Ive used those on my tacoma and they are ok. But these r built the best. Also comes with new clips that are coated too.
Man I have to do my front lower ball joints this weekend along with my breaks and rotors. Is a ball joint replacement a hard thing to do in the garage? 😅
Little detail, I'm in the niddle of the process and I just noticed two of the pads have a longer clips while 2 don't have them. I guess it's the wear indicator that will squeel if the pads are too worn off. In your video you install both of them on the driver's side. Are they always going on the driver's side?
Thank you for a great video. My question is, I am changing my brakes for the first time on a 2015 Subaru Outback (70000 miles). Do you recommend resurfacing the rotors or just change the brakes?
Saw you tapped the rotor back onto the axle. I tapped my too hard and now the rotor sits loose pressed against the axle. If I put it back together and make sure it’s firmly against the axle hub. Is that okay? If not what should I replace
@6:15 help! I hammered my rotor on with wood and a mash hammer. But I can still wobble it. Is that normal. I even tried pressing the rotor on with washers and the nuts 🔩 no luck. Than with the wheel. Still able to wobble the rotor with my hands. Please help!!!
Almost looks too easy!! I've never done brakes, but might try on my 2010 OUtback. Did I miss something, do you have to bleed the lines?? Thanks, great video!
Could you please state what tools you use for the specific task at hand. I bought a ratcheting caliper spreader off Amazon and it was defective. You probably use better tools. I prefer tools that work. Thanks for the video.
I'll be replacing front brakes on my 2014 Sub. Forester, this summer. The dust shield will need to be replaced as well. Do you have instructions on removing that?
MrSubaru1387 I sure wish I could send you a picture somehow on what I did with my legacy on the pads on the bottom part it’s like a little spring ear tabs they sort of extend out a little bit to slide along on the outside of the caliper mounting bracket and what does spring clips do if I’m correct help keep the pad away from the rotor when you’re going down the road and not pressing on the brakes.
I know you said it doesn't matter which position top or bottom that the one with the bushing came out of. But is there a preferred. Just did mine a few months ago and they ended up stiff and I put them in the top.
Yes. If the reservoir is topped up periodically with pad wear, then you can overflow. Just keep an eye on it. Be sure to crap the cap so the pressure doesn't pop it off as well.
I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere before, but if brake pads with a single piston on rear disc brakes on a '98 Suby Outback Limited are wearing very unevenly, one side more than the other, would it be sticky guide or lock pins that are most likely the cause? Because no matter how much cleaning and relubricating of them I do the lock pin side always seems to be less free than the guide pin side? Would replacing them do the trick? They're most likely original done 270,000km.
Is there any possible way to reduce or eliminate rust on rotor hubs and venting perimeter? Or just simply replace with electro coated rotors a d possibly paint hubs with high temp paint? Regards '12 Subaru outback owner 6 spd manual
What you've suggested is probably your best bet. I live in the south, so rust isn't an issue here. Don't know terribly much on effective prevention against it.
Do the pinch welds hold up under weight? I've always avoided placing jacks directly on pinch welds. Service manual calls for rubber padding there I believe.
im always afraid pulling my slider pins out cuz i feel like im going to damage or tear the boot.. ever happen to you? any tips on removing them safely?
Definitely pull them out an lube them. I forgot to do that once on my truck...resulted in a stuck rotor and rotor replacement and brake job. You can find replacement boots at an auto parts store.
Thanks again for the videos! I just did this on my 05 yesterday ( new rotors, pads pins). I'm getting a very loud resonating when I lightly touch the brakes at higher speeds. Also, does it matter where the slide pin with the rubber sleeve goes?
I always put the pins back in the hole they came out of. I'm not sure if the rubber makes a difference, location wise. You didn't replace the pads when you replaced the rotors?
I didn't replace anything. It was a demonstrational video. I heard some brake noise so thought I needed pads, once I tore down, I saw everything was good and still filmed a video.
So I watched and followed your front and rear brake replacement videos, but am curious as to why you have the front wheel nPut torque at 85 ft lbs and the rear at 65 ft lbs. Can you clarify please?
Front brake video is on a 2014 Outback 3.6R. Rear brake video is on a 2002 Outback L.L.Bean. The different year models had different specified lug nut torque values.
Is the Permatex Ceramic Extreme you used in the video for lube safe on slide pins? I believe its a synthetic lube, not silicone based. I'm reading some places that is is NOT safe on the pins, because it can cause rubber to swell. True or false??
After looking up the product on Permatex's website, you're correct. The ceramic extreme brake lube is only for metal to metal contact. Use traditional Permatex brake lubricant for the slide pins.
@@MrSubaru1387 I can confirm - just did some brake service and indeed the rubber bushings are swollen badly in the caliper bracket, had to yank the pin out, and replacing with new bushings. The boots seem swollen and soft too. Stick to silicone paste!
Doesn't seem to be common practice anymore, but I do bed in new pads. 8-10 medium effort stops from about 45mph, then a 10 minute drive on the highway to cool the rotors.
Is there any reason, apart from preconisation, to use a dot3 brake fluid instead of a dot4 brake fluid? I ask you this because dot3 brake fluid is really uncommon in Europe, most cars use a dot4. Agurrak,
Brake fluid with low viscosity, especially at extremely low temperatures, help to brake system functions *(ABS, ESP)* to react quickly. www.ate-brakes.com/products/brake-fluids/technical-data-sheets/ ATE DOT 3 G and B *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 1,500 mm²/s* www.ate-brakes.com/media/3336/ate_td004_dot3.pdf ATE DOT 4 SL (Normal DOT4) *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 1400 mm²/s* www.ate-brakes.com/media/3334/ate_td002_dot4-sl.pdf ATE DOT 4 SL.6 (Class 6, DOT4 maximum standard for ESP systems) *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 700 mm²/s* www.ate-brakes.com/media/3339/ate_td007_dot4-sl6.pdf
on my 2010 outback. I have new rotors from last fall. brakes are a little grabby. it needs a brake fluid replacement but is that a sign of old fluid or pads needing replacement? thx
No bleeding is needed? I want to change my brake pads on my 19 wrx will it be bad if I dont bleed? Some vids people do it and others dont so I'm confused
@@MrSubaru1387 ok so no bleeding when doing pad swap.. I'm at 34k on my wrx so bleeding is only needed when upgrading to new rotors or calipers correct?
Maybe I'm a dumb ass for asking this question, but it seemed like you reused the old brake pads. Why not install new ones while it was torn apart? Maybe I'm wrong for asking.
Is there anything special you have to do when changing the rear brakes due to the electronic parking brake, namely compressing the piston? My 2017 Legacy is due for brakes and I want to do it correctly.
In the video I show using the incorrect brake lubricant. It was a new product I saw and decided to try. Normally I use Permatex Ultra Disc Caliper Lube, in the green bottle. Saw and decided to try the Permatex Ultra ceramic brake lube, in the blue bottle. As comments have pointed out, and after later reading the bottle myself, the ceramic lube shown is only to be used on the brake pads, not on the slide pin, like the normal green bottle lube I use. Just a heads up for you viewers. Sorry for the bad info in the vid. I later corrected the mistake on the vehicle.
Looking at the Permatex website it seems like both the green and blue are for "metal to metal contact only". The red "silicone ceramic extreme" is the only one that says that it is safe for caliper pins and sleeve as well as "most plastic and rubbers". I guess now I am totally confused! www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-silicone-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant/
So question for ya. I jacked up the back of my car in a dumb spot and smooshed in a part of the underbody. Its one of the rails that runs down the length of the car maybe 12 inches in. It was a dumb move and I knew better than to jack it up in that spot but the jack i was using was this dinky little thing that made it tough to get back to the normal jack point. I'm pissed about it but do ya think it'll affect the car in any way? It's a 2013 outback 3.6r
It shouldn't.
Brake Parts Lubricant; 8 Ounce; This 100% synthetic lubricant contains real ceramic solids for extreme performance under the most critical braking conditions. A purple, environmentally friendly, non-melting formula, this premium lubricant is our longest lasting, most temperature resistant way to silence brake noise such as squealing and chattering; also effective in preventing long bolt and sleeve seizing and galling. Excellent on rolling and sliding surfaces operating in wet or dry conditions from -65F to 2800F (-54C to 1538C). This product assures that critical brake parts remain lubricated throughout brake pad life. Resistant to corrosion and contaminants, it will not wash out. It is compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber.
Suggested Applications: Disc brake caliper hardware, bushings, slides, pistons, rubber sleeves and seals
Saw you tapped the rotor back onto the axle. I tapped my too hard and now the rotor sits loose pressed flush against the axle. If I put it back together and make sure it’s firmly against the axle hub. Is that okay? If not what should I replace?
Very thorough and no annoying music. Thank you.
I have been watching a bunch of pad replacement vids on Gen 4 Subarus, and this is the best done so far. Thank you.
You're welcome
Any advice on extracting a seized caliper guide pin?
Best instructional video I’ve seen on UA-cam. Believe me, I’ve watched many.
Nice that you included torq specs and bolt size. Great job 👍
This video is perfect. Love having the torque specs on screen and I can screenshot it for later use!
Thank you very much for your meticulous detail in doing this job. I just replaced the front brakes on my 2010 Forester. Now I'm going to go back and do it the right way!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Best instructional video I’ve ever watched! Thank you.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I like that calliper tool , sold SO and Matco for 25 years never seen that one.great video as usual, thanks AL
Hey man thank you for the video. Very helpful. 7:11 is super improvement and a step alot of people miss or skip. Also I learned something new at 5:32. That is a good tip/idea. Wonderful video as always. Just did mine today 👍🏻
Thank you so much! I’ve been wanting to learn how to do my front brakes myself for awhile and your video made me confident enough to try and it worked! Awesome!
Tackling this job on my 2002 Subaru Outback H6 tomorrow finally have the day off breaks just horrible calipers locked a lil bit brake pads trash rotors trash out with the rust in with the shiny stuff 😄 great vid
Dude, you are very methodical, I love it, helps so much, Peace
You're welcome 👍🏻
thanks so much for the clear and and useful video tutorial. I was able to successfully replace my rotors and pads on my Outback this weekend!
You're very welcome. Glad to help. Thanks again for the donation. Really appreciate it.
that is a mighty smooth level driveway mine is like surface of the moon LOL those brakes were just getting worn in not nearly enough rust on rotors.
for the past 30 yrs on my cars i use anti-seize original or copper for lubricant, i compress calipers with channel locks. i did have to go on youtube to see how subaru brakes were done. did mine 3 weeks ago. one thing no one mentioned on the videos until i saw a female mechanic explain to how to put brake pad without bending the clip with the brake squeal thingamajig. yep i bent mine piss me off ended up cleaning original and works like a charm
Love how you have to use a special tool to push the two pistons back into the caliper. Ive been using the same Lisle tool for 25 years and now had to buy a new tool jus because of the two piston caliper.
lots of people just put a old pad across the two pistons and squeeze them in with a c clamp or big pliers.
WOW! Look at that new high resolution camera! Looks awesome!
Just a GoPro Hero 5. :p
Thanks!
This is a great video! Thank you. BUT, just a little additional advice. I did this job on my 2011 today and had some issues. Car has 92k miles, all of them near the ocean in New Jersey. Everything came apart fine. Obvious braking problems shown on both sides, with outer pad worn down to bare metal, inner pad barely worn at all. Had a lot of difficulty getting the new spring clips to seat properly on caliper carriers, and could not get the new pads to slot into position on the carrier...it was as if the pads were just slightly too long. I tried the old pads and the too were VERY tight in the slots, and clearly would not slide (hence the uneven pad wear). The issue was the 10+ years of salt causing enough corrosion on the carriers to narrow the slots and shorten slightly the opening length end to end. I tried to clean them up with a wire brush, a file and sandpaper. Still could not get the pads to fit and slide propertly. Finally I ran to AutoZone, bought new R and L front caliper carriers, and while I was there picked up new slider pins and boots. From that point, the rest of the job went smoothly and car is braking perfectly. Just thought I'd post my experience, maybe it will help someone someday.
I also had braking issues where my inner pads and rotor surface on the front were completely gouged. (I live in the Midwest where we also get lots of salt lol). Im thinking I will get new caliper brackets next time. Thanks!
Even better is to pull the rubber and clean it, and also the where the pin goes in and use a bore brush if the grease is super old and/or getting corroded.
I love in ne pa so we see tons of rust here.
However, no shop is doing this, or 1 in a 1000 shops will lube this part, let alone pull it all apart if in fact the grease is old af and hard. It then needs to be really cleaned.
Anyway good video like always.
I do my brakes on my outback specifically to do this as i know for a fa t it doesn't get done.
The car i have is a 2010. Its been dealer maintained. It has gone in for brakes twice and resurfacing of the rotors twice and a brake check for something (idk it doesn't specify) 5 times to the dealer and whn i changed the brakes and rotors recently still had the original white yellowish grease that was hard and dried up in there.
The bottom pins pn all 4 were stuck in. Unbelievable....
Wow you are working on pave drive way this time not on the gravel.. As always I learned a lot from your video Thanks
Spot on. I would welcome him to work on my own car...
At 14:42 I can see that you put the Little spring clip I’m talking about correctly pushing out at the bottom it’s at the very bottom of the caliper in fact it looks like you actually put some lube on it, and it slides up against the pad clips but on the outside very bottom of the whole Assembly.
Thank You for the excellent tutorial. Would this be the same for a 2020 outback?
Wish you had the camera set up on the other side.
thanks for the great vid! I'm doing the front brakes on my '08 H6 tomorrow, hope it goes smoothly. Couple questions:
- Do you need to remove the 12mm brake line bolt? Seems like it can hang out with that in place. I'm guessing it's just precautionary?
- Is it worth scrubbing a bunch of rust off the calipers while they're off the car? Mine are pretty rusty. Seems worth the extra 30min but maybe it's only aesthetic?
Thanks!
Thank you!!!Best instruction!!!
This man has my car, right down to the tires 😂 😂 😂
I have found that Toyota GT 86 front disc fit to legacy 2007 , are 277mm, i bougth sloted and drilled, My brakes work better now
Great video mate, would have been even better with the camera on the side though..cheers
Is Snap on a sponser? Everything from Boots and socks to tool. The best
I wish. Haha. I was a Snap-on dealer for the better part of 5 years. Invested heavily as a shop owner before becoming a dealer. Wish I'd have waited. Could've gotten my tools at cost! 😭😭
This video came right on time, thanks! Also, have you ever needed to replace a purge control valve?
You're welcome. Yes, I have, they're relatively easy to replace. Located on the intake manifold. One electrical plug and two vacuum lines.
Blessings and love my guy question I have 2016 legacy and all maintenance is up to date but my brakes will it cause a rattling when you drive have had the brakes 2 times only happens at 90mhp when doing a hard acceleration????? Any idea why only 85754miles
Dang I was hoping you would show the viewers the little spring clips that help keep the Pads away from the rotors when you’re not pressing on the brakes I had to figure that out the hard way lol.
Spring clips?
Thank you for this video. I used it to do as you did. Subscribed and Thumbs up!
Thanks and you're welcome. 👍🏻
I cant use that much grease where i live. The brakes would be an absolute mess. Doesn't matter tho, i use the platinum from advanced and they have rubber shims on them.
They are absolutely the best pads made. Better then oem subaru for sure n the Japanese brand that starts with an Ak.
Ive used those on my tacoma and they are ok. But these r built the best. Also comes with new clips that are coated too.
I have a dumb question: why did you have to add brake fluid if no fluid was bled out of the system?
Could just be a simple check of the fluid level.
Man I have to do my front lower ball joints this weekend along with my breaks and rotors. Is a ball joint replacement a hard thing to do in the garage? 😅
Little detail, I'm in the niddle of the process and I just noticed two of the pads have a longer clips while 2 don't have them. I guess it's the wear indicator that will squeel if the pads are too worn off. In your video you install both of them on the driver's side. Are they always going on the driver's side?
I see. Thanks for letting me know. I kinda felt like an idiot asking,but was just confused was all
It's all good. 👍🏻
Thank you for a great video. My question is, I am changing my brakes for the first time on a 2015 Subaru Outback (70000 miles). Do you recommend resurfacing the rotors or just change the brakes?
Always turn or replace rotors. You never pad slap a car/truck.
Hey Hey!!! Which slide pin goes in which hole? Thanks
nice new driveway. Congrats!!
Filmed this at my mother's house. Haha. 👍🏻
Saw you tapped the rotor back onto the axle. I tapped my too hard and now the rotor sits loose pressed against the axle. If I put it back together and make sure it’s firmly against the axle hub. Is that okay? If not what should I replace
Here in New York, you will do this yearly. Salt sucks.
@6:15 help! I hammered my rotor on with wood and a mash hammer. But I can still wobble it. Is that normal. I even tried pressing the rotor on with washers and the nuts 🔩 no luck. Than with the wheel. Still able to wobble the rotor with my hands. Please help!!!
On the Bracket wouldn't you run a wirebrush through it to clean off any rust and brake dust from it?
Thanks for the great info bro.
New rotors and pads on my 2010 outback 2.5.
Almost looks too easy!! I've never done brakes, but might try on my 2010 OUtback. Did I miss something, do you have to bleed the lines?? Thanks, great video!
You don't have to bleed the brakes for this job.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks!!! I got a $610 quote today, so even with Subie parts, I can cut that in half!! Cheers!
What is torque setting for bracket? Don’t think you put that up. Also no need for bleeding? Thanks
Could you please state what tools you use for the specific task at hand. I bought a ratcheting caliper spreader off Amazon and it was defective. You probably use better tools. I prefer tools that work. Thanks for the video.
I'll be replacing front brakes on my 2014 Sub. Forester, this summer. The dust shield will need to be replaced as well. Do you have instructions on removing that?
Yeah the little clips that are mechanically attached to the Pads go on the bottom of the pad
There are shims on the caliper bracket, that the ears of the pad ride on, but nothing attaches to the pads.
MrSubaru1387 I sure wish I could send you a picture somehow on what I did with my legacy on the pads on the bottom part it’s like a little spring ear tabs they sort of extend out a little bit to slide along on the outside of the caliper mounting bracket and what does spring clips do if I’m correct help keep the pad away from the rotor when you’re going down the road and not pressing on the brakes.
MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
I know you said it doesn't matter which position top or bottom that the one with the bushing came out of. But is there a preferred. Just did mine a few months ago and they ended up stiff and I put them in the top.
Great Vid mate!, tell me this should apply to older models? I assume Subaru kept the same braking system?
Cheers!
Yes. Basically that same across all years and models for front discs.
@@MrSubaru1387 Mr. Wizard, its not necessary to bleed the brakes?
@@KDD8 No, because you are not breaking open any lines and not introducing air to the system...
@@songofthepassaic1521 When does one bleed the brakes? Only when replacing the caliper? Thanks
@@KDD8 yes or when you run the master cylinder dry or while performing a brake fluid flush.
Hi. I’ve seen people use Silicone paste to lube the slide pins. Is this different or basically the same thing ? Thx
I'm guessing this would be the same steps for a 2011 legacy 3.6r front pads and rotors ? Great video btw
Yes it would. Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Does the 2014 Impreza 2.0 Hatchback generally have the same brake components?
Lol I just found you on Facebook and sent you the picture I’m talking about buddy.
When you press the piston is there a possibility for the brakes fluids to overflow? Should we remove some before?
Yes. If the reservoir is topped up periodically with pad wear, then you can overflow. Just keep an eye on it. Be sure to crap the cap so the pressure doesn't pop it off as well.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks and what is that articulated electric tool you are using seems to work pretty well?
@@STROBdotNET yellow? That's a Snap-on CTR767 cordless ratchet.
So what brake lubricant to use for Subaru Slide pin ?
I thought the green stuff not compatible either. Pls advise
By the way awesome videos
Thank you!
When you "bed" brakes, how do YOU do it? Also, is there a "bedding" process when you pad-swap the REAR brakes? Thanks :)
Usually make 10 medium effort, full stops, from about 35-45mph, allowing cool down time between stops. Usually on a backroad without traffic.
Did you put grease also on the pistons? (or the area on the pads where the piston will come in contact?)
You do, unless the pads have a backer on them for squeal.
I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere before, but if brake pads with a single piston on rear disc brakes on a '98 Suby Outback Limited are wearing very unevenly, one side more than the other, would it be sticky guide or lock pins that are most likely the cause? Because no matter how much cleaning and relubricating of them I do the lock pin side always seems to be less free than the guide pin side? Would replacing them do the trick? They're most likely original done 270,000km.
Correct, usually guide pins or the pad ears sticking in the caliper bracket.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thankyou that makes a lot of sense I hadn't thought of the pad ears. Cheers bro!
Would this work for a 2020 outback?
Does the reservoir cap have to be open when doing this job?
Is there any possible way to reduce or eliminate rust on rotor hubs and venting perimeter?
Or just simply replace with electro coated rotors a d possibly paint hubs with high temp paint?
Regards
'12 Subaru outback owner 6 spd manual
What you've suggested is probably your best bet. I live in the south, so rust isn't an issue here. Don't know terribly much on effective prevention against it.
Do the pinch welds hold up under weight? I've always avoided placing jacks directly on pinch welds. Service manual calls for rubber padding there I believe.
Never had an issue with them and jackstands. I do work on mostly rust-free southern vehicles though. I don't jack them up by the pinch welds.
im always afraid pulling my slider pins out cuz i feel like im going to damage or tear the boot.. ever happen to you? any tips on removing them safely?
Only time they've fallen apart was on an old vehicle. They were really rotted. You should be fine. They're pretty tough.
Definitely pull them out an lube them. I forgot to do that once on my truck...resulted in a stuck rotor and rotor replacement and brake job. You can find replacement boots at an auto parts store.
Thanks again for the videos! I just did this on my 05 yesterday ( new rotors, pads pins). I'm getting a very loud resonating when I lightly touch the brakes at higher speeds. Also, does it matter where the slide pin with the rubber sleeve goes?
I always put the pins back in the hole they came out of. I'm not sure if the rubber makes a difference, location wise. You didn't replace the pads when you replaced the rotors?
MrSubaru1387 . Yes, new pads too. Wagner ceramics.
Is that an alloy centre cap on the wheel or just a plastic one?
Curious-why did you do this job? Machined the rotors? I see you reused the pads and shims.
I didn't replace anything. It was a demonstrational video. I heard some brake noise so thought I needed pads, once I tore down, I saw everything was good and still filmed a video.
I bought a M12 bolt to use as you suggested in 5:33 to get the rotor off but it was too big. I heard elsewhere that an M8 should be used. Thoughts?
Did you ever find out what size the bolt actually is? I use to have a set I used for my Toyota rotors, but lost them.
So I watched and followed your front and rear brake replacement videos, but am curious as to why you have the front wheel nPut torque at 85 ft lbs and the rear at 65 ft lbs. Can you clarify please?
Front brake video is on a 2014 Outback 3.6R. Rear brake video is on a 2002 Outback L.L.Bean. The different year models had different specified lug nut torque values.
I have never had screws and bolts come off so easily on a brake job 2:41.
Is the Permatex Ceramic Extreme you used in the video for lube safe on slide pins? I believe its a synthetic lube, not silicone based. I'm reading some places that is is NOT safe on the pins, because it can cause rubber to swell. True or false??
After looking up the product on Permatex's website, you're correct. The ceramic extreme brake lube is only for metal to metal contact. Use traditional Permatex brake lubricant for the slide pins.
@@MrSubaru1387 I can confirm - just did some brake service and indeed the rubber bushings are swollen badly in the caliper bracket, had to yank the pin out, and replacing with new bushings. The boots seem swollen and soft too. Stick to silicone paste!
Do you have the torque specs for the brake job? Thanks
I have a 2014 Outback. There are too many pads to choose from. What do yo recommend now that I have a little knowledge?
Ceramics. Always ceramic pads.
Do warped rotors do any damages to wheel bearings during braking if vibrating/shaking?
Not that I'm aware of.
If just changing pads, should I skip everything from 4:15 to 8:45?
You're you're changing pads you need to either resurface the rotors or replace them.
Awesome vid! Do you have to bed the pads in? Or is that only for performance pads?
Doesn't seem to be common practice anymore, but I do bed in new pads. 8-10 medium effort stops from about 45mph, then a 10 minute drive on the highway to cool the rotors.
MrSubaru1387 thank you!
You're welcome.
@@MrSubaru1387 Interesting, what does this do?
Helps create a good wear pattern between the pads and rotor.
Do you know the torque specs for a 2017 Outback?
Is there any reason, apart from preconisation, to use a dot3 brake fluid instead of a dot4 brake fluid?
I ask you this because dot3 brake fluid is really uncommon in Europe, most cars use a dot4.
Agurrak,
Use whichever fluid your vehicle requires. Most US vehicles use DOT 3.
Brake fluid with low viscosity, especially at extremely low temperatures, help to brake system functions *(ABS, ESP)* to react quickly.
www.ate-brakes.com/products/brake-fluids/technical-data-sheets/
ATE DOT 3 G and B *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 1,500 mm²/s*
www.ate-brakes.com/media/3336/ate_td004_dot3.pdf
ATE DOT 4 SL (Normal DOT4) *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 1400 mm²/s*
www.ate-brakes.com/media/3334/ate_td002_dot4-sl.pdf
ATE DOT 4 SL.6 (Class 6, DOT4 maximum standard for ESP systems) *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 700 mm²/s*
www.ate-brakes.com/media/3339/ate_td007_dot4-sl6.pdf
on my 2010 outback. I have new rotors from last fall. brakes are a little grabby. it needs a brake fluid replacement but is that a sign of old fluid or pads needing replacement? thx
Grabby usually means contaminated pads or sticky slide pins.
Thx, gotta do the pins, will just follow what u did in this vid. Thx for getting same care as me :-)
Car, not care.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Which brake pads did you use
No bleeding is needed? I want to change my brake pads on my 19 wrx will it be bad if I dont bleed? Some vids people do it and others dont so I'm confused
You don't have to bleed brakes to do a pad swap. If you're changing pads, have the rotors turned or replace them.
@@MrSubaru1387 ok so no bleeding when doing pad swap.. I'm at 34k on my wrx so bleeding is only needed when upgrading to new rotors or calipers correct?
@@ivandeeterrible8037 you only bleed if replacing a caliper, opened the hydraulics of your brakes, or if you're replacing your brake fluid.
Maybe I'm a dumb ass for asking this question, but it seemed like you reused the old brake pads. Why not install new ones while it was torn apart? Maybe I'm wrong for asking.
It was a demonstrational video. Nothing was replaced.
Hi, which brake piston compressor are you using?
BluePoint
Is there anything special you have to do when changing the rear brakes due to the electronic parking brake, namely compressing the piston? My 2017 Legacy is due for brakes and I want to do it correctly.
I don't think so, but I haven't replaced brakes on a 2010+ rear. A scan tool may be needed to rewind the calipers, but not sure.
Go swap break, 294 or 316mm
Jack stands!?!? Guess you don't have 4 jacks to balance the car on. Ha! Is this in reference to anything? Lol!
jeffrey goss and don’t forgot about those side mirror to catch the jack handle to protect the door window haha
What brand is that brake piston compressor on the 2014 OB front brake job?
Without watching it, I assume it's my Blue-Point one.