How to replace front brakes, (brake pads and brake rotors) on a Subaru Forester. This is a 2008 model, but the procedure is the same or very similar on other models.
This was fantastic. Did mine at the weekend (2012 Forester) and having watched this video was a huge help. As others have said, the caliper support bracket bolts were tough to crack off, but otherwise no major issues. Thank you for putting this up!
Thanks for this video - I have a 2013 Forester that I will be changing the front brakes in a couple of days. These type of videos give me the confidence to do it myself.
One of my "guide pins" came off with a sleeve attached to it. The pin will no longer go in. I took the sleeve off and inserted it into the guide pin socket and lubricated the pin to try to get the pin to slide into the sleeve through the hole for the pin and am still having trouble getting the pin in. Any suggestions??
Are we supposed to put new rubber sleeve on one of the two slide pins (@5:10)? They come with new rubber boot kit. The boots should be replaced too if torn or worn out.
Clean the boots & add surface protector, also polish clips while in place to avoid bending. The bracket, maybe dishwasher cycle to clean good. Wire wheel piston internal to rid rust. Fit pads with top slide pin afixed, tilt bracket upwards. Compress piston as required since fatter pads are going in.
May I ask whether the original disc rotor and newly replace one were in the same size? Cause this looks to be a bit bigger than the dust shield. What is the diameter of new replaced rotor?
I'm sorry this car belongs to a friend of mine, and he supplied the parts. I just fitted them. This was a long time ago, but I always check if the parts are the same. Maybe they just look bigger on camera...?
Dem har ju även lite olika kallavfettningar och alkaliska. Samt att kanske prova en "foam lance" för vattenslang för dem som inte har tillgång till högtryck. Slulle även vara intressant att se deras polermedel
I'm doing this right now and that 17 mm bolt is soooooo hard to remove lol. Using a Milwaukee 1/2" right angle impact with rust penetrant and it isn't coming off so I guess I just gotta wait lol
@@ejoautovideos got it off with a hammer and 1/2" racket (breaker bar was top big to fit into tire well), but it was ridiculously hard to remove. Factory service manual torque spec is 59 ft lbs, but it felt like it was over 200 ft lbs because of the rust. Just bought some kroil (rust penetrant) because people online say the wd40 specialist rust penetrant I was using sucks. Also bought some 8 mm screws and gear puller to help remove rotors because the rotor was stuck on there hard
This may be the greatest brake job I’ve ever seen.
Love the wrench extension trick works on all wrenches up to tractor bolts perfectly
This was fantastic. Did mine at the weekend (2012 Forester) and having watched this video was a huge help. As others have said, the caliper support bracket bolts were tough to crack off, but otherwise no major issues. Thank you for putting this up!
Thanks for this video - I have a 2013 Forester that I will be changing the front brakes in a couple of days. These type of videos give me the confidence to do it myself.
Glad to hear that, thanks for the comment. 😊
This was the best video! Definitely going to follow you because I like to do as much work as I can myself!
Good to see such attention to detail where it really matters!
Thanks dude! Great clean video. Easy to follow. Now off to fix my brakes so I can catch some waves tomorrow! 🏄♀️
Nice man! Appreciate your comment. 😊
Thanks ! You help me to do the job with your video. It seems at 5:14' in your video it missing a bushing (seal) on the lock pin...
Great video! Thank you very much!
Excellent video and very clear explanation. Thank you
Thank you for commenting. 😊
great video man!! every easy to follow
Thank you!
Very good video!. Very detailed and to the point! 👍👍
Thank you! this has helped me tremendously
So glad to hear that, thank you for the comment. :)
Grym som alltid!
Tack så mycket! 😁
Great job 👍Nico from France
Thank you! 😊
One of my "guide pins" came off with a sleeve attached to it. The pin will no longer go in. I took the sleeve off and inserted it into the guide pin socket and lubricated the pin to try to get the pin to slide into the sleeve through the hole for the pin and am still having trouble getting the pin in. Any suggestions??
grazie, molto utile
Do you have a link to purchase break pads??
Are we supposed to put new rubber sleeve on one of the two slide pins (@5:10)? They come with new rubber boot kit. The boots should be replaced too if torn or worn out.
Clean the boots & add surface protector, also polish clips while in place to avoid bending. The bracket, maybe dishwasher cycle to clean good. Wire wheel piston internal to rid rust. Fit pads with top slide pin afixed, tilt bracket upwards. Compress piston as required since fatter pads are going in.
THANKS
What kind of jack are you using to lift the car?
May I ask whether the original disc rotor and newly replace one were in the same size? Cause this looks to be a bit bigger than the dust shield. What is the diameter of new replaced rotor?
I'm sorry this car belongs to a friend of mine, and he supplied the parts. I just fitted them. This was a long time ago, but I always check if the parts are the same. Maybe they just look bigger on camera...?
.πολυ καλο βιντεο ... με ποσα Nm σφιγγουμε τα μπουλονια του τροχου !!! ...
Dont the brake shims come with the pads?
napa does not recommend anti seize on brakes except rotor bolt
Great video
Thank you :)
Made that shit look easily been trying to get those stupid bolts off for an hour
En video på biltemas bilvårdsprodukter vs deras premium produkter?
Absolut något som skulle kunna vara intressant! 👍
Dem har ju även lite olika kallavfettningar och alkaliska. Samt att kanske prova en "foam lance" för vattenslang för dem som inte har tillgång till högtryck. Slulle även vara intressant att se deras polermedel
If one of my calipers are stuck should I replace all? Or just try to rebuild?
You can definitely try to rebuild.
But if you don't have the know-how or the time, then a new caliper might be the better choice. 👍
The Forester studs are notorious for snapping I think it’s due to the lug nuts.
The studs are just not that robust.
@@camcorder187 I’ve learnt to change them all to Nissan compatible ones
I'm doing this right now and that 17 mm bolt is soooooo hard to remove lol. Using a Milwaukee 1/2" right angle impact with rust penetrant and it isn't coming off so I guess I just gotta wait lol
Try heat and a breaker bar. 👍
@@ejoautovideos got it off with a hammer and 1/2" racket (breaker bar was top big to fit into tire well), but it was ridiculously hard to remove. Factory service manual torque spec is 59 ft lbs, but it felt like it was over 200 ft lbs because of the rust. Just bought some kroil (rust penetrant) because people online say the wd40 specialist rust penetrant I was using sucks. Also bought some 8 mm screws and gear puller to help remove rotors because the rotor was stuck on there hard
Bra video!
Tack! 😊
Mycket bra video 👍👌😊
Tackar! 😁😁
What grease is that in the aerosol that you cal "anti seize"? Is it white lithium?
Hi,
Ceramic paste grease.
Details needed on reassembly of brake pads to caliper...
No need to apply anti-seize on the bolts?
The thread locker kinda acts as an anti sieze. 👍
I've never had a bolt come off so easy lol
Fairly good video......but didn't address rotors that are stuck and the method(s) for getting them free. That's an important thing to address.