Sonos were the company that didn't want to support their old hardware any longer, so they announced that they were going to brick all the old speakers, rather than let them keep working and not support whatever functionality the new speakers supported. This was unacceptable for old speakers but ,when they announced it, there were still speakers being sold that would be bricked shortly afterwards. The "good" news was that you could get a discount on a brand new piece of technocrap that could be obsoleted at any time, as long as you spend more money. Needless to say, the backlash made them rethink this brilliant plan to increase company revenue at the expense of consumers. Personally, I wouldn't buy a device whose stereo line-in jack can’t be used without registering an account with Sonos, but maybe that is just me.
What a bloody palaver just to get into it! Best way to deal with this buggers is don’t buy anything again from them! I ask about technical support before I buy anything now! The throwaway option is finished now! There is so much plastic in the oceans now that it would cover an area twice the area o France!🤬!!! Fraser
Good fix. I know you like your low melt for component removal but I would recommend wicking it off properly afterwards - if left on it can be brittle and the joint can crack with thermal cycling.
I don’t believe my eyes…. Well i do because nothing fazes you. What an absolute nightmare you have managed to turn into a dream. More people have reached the summit of Everest that could do what you have just done. Truly remarkable . And yes i am, yet again on my knees in the “ We are not worthy pose”. Do you remember The Krypton factor. Top job fella top job👍👍
Thought to share with you that i found the problem with the headphones i mentioned to you, your troubleshooting tenacity motivated me to persevere, the problem was the 2.5mm jack connector a pin inside was not making contact throwing the Bluetooth pairing mode out which intern communicates to the on board chip. there is a workaround but have ordered new jack from AliExpress. great work again and thanks for the motivation to fault find my own issue.
I have the same speaker with the same problem. Same resistor burned, and in my case the 8 pin switching IC has a crack across it. Very useful and timely video. Thx 👍
Hi Mick, hope all is well your end? 😊 (Wayne Commenting). SONOS are another company that does not like the "Right To Repair" idea to be honest. They are, what you might call, "Landfill Lovers". They would rather that you binned it, instead of trying to repair it. This goo that electronics firms like to squirt all over their boards can be a menace. It can become either electricaly conductive or absorb moisture, the moisture then causing a short circuit. If we find that damn stuff, we remove it completely, by far the best policy. Many Thanks for another great video. Wayne & Nina 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😄😄😄😄😄😄😄❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
I've ordered probably close to a hundred semiconductor things (discrete and ICs) from ebay/aliexpress and TLDR more than not had a bad experience. Chips are often sanded and rebranded, outright fake, or as you experienced in a prior video they put for eg a 2n2222 transistor die in a large power package so it still tests like a transistor but blows up with any real load applied(ive verified this with decapsulating the die and looking under microscope). Now the only chips I buy from these places are vintage chips not available elsewhere. For repair I source it from digikey, etc cause even with the $8 shipping, its worth not being sus in the new parts.
I've had not too bad experience with Ali in the past however the last few purchases I seem to have had issues with. I do order from Digikey and RS, Mouser etc but the postage cost is around £15! So unless I'm ordering a lot of parts to get free postage it's not very economical. Also a lot of parts seem to be out of stock or are not available.
I've had some MOSFETs from Aliexpress with RDS (on resistance) about 20x what the datasheet says, so clearly fake. Larger MOSFETs seem to be the most common fake parts from Ali.
I do like the idea of a thermal camera , makes diagnosing more fun ...... I got quite a few things from Ali in the past , all SMD parts are in reel tape , so I trust the authenticity of those parts , it's the bigger Mosfets in the TO-220 style cases and TO-3 styles that can be sanded and restamped .... Plus some bigger IC chips as well .... Whatever I cannot get from DigiKey , Mouser or LCSC , I'll grab from Ali... I have a few known good stores from them written down ..... Take Care Mon Ami ...
It should be a law that once you decide you stop supporting the software you have to make it open source to let others continue supporting it. Or at least make it work without needing servers to work.
I 100% agree! Logitech made that, with their Squeezebox music players. The products and support are discontinued, BUT they released their software source code and installers to the public. Incredible, but TRUE. It's a really one of the rare HAPPY END for a product. So if you got a RaspberryPi used as a player, LMS (Logitech Music Server) is, in my opinion, one of the best way to go !
Good stuff, i repair these all the time - they have a wealth of different issues. Main thing to do when taking apart is discharge from the bridge rectifier with a discharge pen (definitely get one, they're cheap) as they often hold onto over 300 volts for days. Always enjoy seeing your knowledge at work 👌
@simontay4851 You can make your own of course but the pens are cheap, easy to use one handed and have a light to tell you when it's discharged. Essential tool to have around
@manolisgledsodakis873 not saying the rectifier is holding charge, just a good place to discharge from - connected to the big caps, slightly easier to pinch a discharge pen on.
Another epic fix. I know linear regulators get a bad rap.....but I don't recall that they used to explode quite so often as these SMPSUs seem to - they tended to age gracefully ;). SMSPUs are great when all is well, but they really aren't tolerant of much abuse are they. Occasionally makes one hanker for a good old mains transformer, a bridge and a smokin' hot regulator transistor ;)
That often tends to be the way of these things - simpler often lasts longer (fewer possible failure points), but often while being woefully inefficient. Linear regulators are great for longevity and low noise, but throwing off ~40% of input energy as heat is hardly ideal.
Awesome diagnostics. Aliexpress have a lot to answer for these days, so many people like you having the same issues with a number of their parts… even me. Great vid as always👍👍
Another great fix Mick, I really enjoyed the repair just goes to show don’t trust sellers on eBay or Ali ex, determination pays off every time and yet another happy customer 😊
I don't know what to say really. Another never-give-up repair of which you are stacking up like there's no tomorrow! I would've taken the hammer to it after half the time, lol. Will have to get more hats, because I'm wearing the brims out due to you. 😁 FANTASTIC work! Take care and I hope you reward yourself with some good dram or what you prefer. 😊
44:12 - Its OK to solder like this, but there is another method, you can solder two SMD resistors, in Λ shape, where one is left one is right, upright position tilted, in that way, ends are soldered with full width of component, and you are soldering them away from PCB layer (possibly GND or shorting to another signal).
Ah yes I forgot about the tombstone way. These resistors were quite tiny, so I just thought I'd do it like I did. I didn't see anything around them that would cause an issue.
Another great fix Mick. Absolutely brilliant. Unfortunately SONOS is one of the worst speakers out there. I mean, I'm not talking about the sound quality, I'm talking about the company policy and ease of use. It's not user-friendly at all, too much hassle to get it connected using a special app for that, plus you must create an account etc. As far as the company policy goes, they just decide to brick all old models, which to me sounds like a scam. After you pay good money for a speaker, after few years it becomes e-waste. I would pay the same money for BOSE.
Yes, I wouldn't have one myself. I prefer things that I'm fully in control of. Physical media for instance or download rather than streaming or online purchases which can be taken away at any moment for whatever reason...
Your patience and persistence was tested on this one eh..bad parts didn't help. Hope you get refunded on the components that were no good. Troubleshooting this was brilliant, I never could figure out which culprit was next, good job. Nice video and great repair as always, thanks. See ya next time.
WOW! The ammount of problems that speaker had and u still managed to fix it! It blew my mind - no pun intended 😂. Is there something electronics wise u can't fix? I'm not gonna lie i was thinking u may had to give up on it if u found another massive hidden problem that cound't be fixed, but once again u show us how the pros do it. Stupendous work!!
I took too long to discover your channel Mick! And I'm learning so much seeing your "classes" while repairing, thank you so much for the patience explaining the details, recording/editing etc. I would like to know where did you inject the 1V 1.5A to see the heating diode near 19'00? Thanks again, and cheers from Recife, PE, Brazil!
Thanks kindly for another excellent video. After seeing this and researching Sonos a bit I think I will stay clear of their products. Glad those capacitors were fully discharged. They can be nasty. BTW, if you ever have the opportunity to replace the batteries in an Onkyo OKAX6B/10 Portable Bluetooth speaker I would love to watch. I have one and it is great, but the batteries no longer take a charge and I have no idea of how to get into i without destroying it. Thanks.
Loved the part where the repair started to actually make you think 😂. Just kidding, great fix as always! I wouldnt have suspected of that lil resistor there, learned a lot.
Loved this video! I loathe switch mode power supplies. I've had a bit of a bad run with them myself 😅 I can relate to the process. Do you still experience anxiety around that first power up anticipating the possible bang?
Modern chips (since lead free solder) have a shelf life after which the pins are too oxidised for flow soldering. Some can be recovered by cleaning contacts with abrasive and the use of tin/lead solder. Really old chips solder well because old solder cleans up well with ordinary flux. Possibly cheap chips are just old.
@@incandescentwithrage NO! After market chips can be so old that they were made tinned with lead free solder so the oxides on the incoming (old but unused) must be removed with abrasive before they will solder, whatever the incoming free solder.
Great video thanks. I'm just learning when you inject power for thermal camera. Do you put the power through the charging port? Or do you have any videos explaining where to inject current please
You inject where you suspect or find a short. So you measure across a capacitor for instance and it seems to be short circuit. I'd probably find a ground and inject there. In this case the short was across the diode that feeds the capacitors. The short could have been anywhere before or after that point so I chose to inject there as it seemed a safe and sensible place to start. Only use a low voltage like 1V and start at something like 1A see if anything gets hot, if nothing does, up the amps a bit and repeat.
Hi Mick. You were 'lucky' to find one of the ICs was genuine. I also think they are removed from old PCBs so they are not new ones hence the pins were oxydated. Do you agree ?
They could well be mate. I ordered a transformer for an LCD TV a few videos back and that seemed used and was faulty! One of the chips in the packet wasn't even the correct one.
I see why you said it was like a Repair Cafe fix I did of switcher, current sense diodes, bridge, and fuse, so I knew after seeing the toasted low ohm resistors the other likely bits you'd have to fix. But I wasn't expecting that secondary diode at all and can't make sense of that. Secondary side faults rarely damage anything on the primary, and vice verse, Most odd. Was the switching chip actually faulty? Probably if the gate drive resistor was also dead.
@@BuyitFixit The switching chips are what I pretty much never have to hand, so unless top blown off or test utterly bogus, last bit to swap for me. The ones with integrated MOSFET usually have top blown off so you have to grub around to find the shards to try and work out what it actually used to be. External MOSFET ones usually survive, but I agree yours there was probably toast.
That’s the way to fault find keep at it ull find it, an old friend of mine who worked on aircraft electronics used to put a larger fuse in till it didn’t blow and then the faulty item would lol.
Yes, but the postage is very expensive. I usually wait until I need a few parts for a few items to try and get free postage, as it's not very economical paying £10-15 postage for a part that costs £1
You definitely do a great job soldering, but I was wondering if you’ve ever seen the UA-camr Mr. solder fix he’s got some great techniques and tricks that might work well in your wheelhouse😊
I've seen his channel pop up a couple of times, but not had a look. A lot of my time is taken up making videos, editing, and running a farm, and doing all the other mundane stuff 😂😂
Hang, I was looking at that bulky capacitor during the initial tear down and thinking of me many years ago sorting out an air con outside unit.😅. Go fast on the straights and slow down on the corners.
Yes, it's just a bulb wired in series with the live terminal of the socket. It just limits the current and the bulb will light up if there is a short hopefully saving further damage.
You are done good trouble shooting sir but still i have confusion and i am looking from datasheet it is showing the 100 ohams resistor but you did the fixed 148 ohams how is this possible can you explain and onece again thanks for the sharing good information.
I didn't see any values on the datasheet, but someone had the a similar fault where the same resistor was blown and someone measured the value and said it was 148 ohms.. So I gave it a go.
Mick, me and the other half have struck lucky. Just found a VAX Blade 32volt vacuum cleaner been dumped at the local WEEE Bin. Thing is, there is NOTHING WRONG WITH IT, AFTER FULL INSPECTIONS AND CHECKS!!! 😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯 Just needs a good clean up. These things aint cheap to buy, what an absolute waste, throwing this good stuff away. 😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣 Nina (From Wayne & Nina).
Those three one ohm resistors look to be paralleled so (any) values to achieve a total of 0.3 ohms would fit on those pads - three resistors being used purely for power dissipation reasons.
@@BuyitFixit Yes, current sensing - that's a given. The lower value you now have means the fault detection requires a HIGHER fault current to cause a shut-down. I doubt it will ever become a problem but........
Yes when you text said did you see the fault I looked and saw the IC number was different. The R178 goes from pin 6 to the source of the FET i.e the top of the 1R resistors that blew, this is quite common fault on this type of switching IC. When the FET goes short it blows the current sense resistors then the rectified mains gets connected across the switching IC via the FET gate series resistor and the current sense pin series resistor blowing all 3 items. The current sense value on this item should be 0R33 but because you fitted 3 x 0R82 it ends up as 0R27 quite a bit lower. But TBH as you found out that it still did not stop the whole thing blowing even with the 0R33 in when the output diode failed.
Thanks for that mate, I didn't realise at the time that they were current sense resistors, but someone else mentioned that, and it makes total sense (no pun intended 😂😂)
Only started the video but I could swear I've read articles before about Sonos purposively bricking their older speakers with firmware updates. No idea which ones and maybe I've the wrong end of the stick but it's about all I know of the company.
Yeah i believe its the first generation of sonos speakers getting bricked. Although they stopped bricking speakers a few months/years ago cause people where complaining and sonos actually got in some trouble i believe. What sonos did was replace the rootfs with a dummy one which could not have all the functionality of a regualr sonos speaker and they also prevented old gen1 speakers from connecting to the app but i could be wrong
Might be an old thread but the CEO of Blackberry took over and they weren't going to Support old Sonos Bridges.. Everybody with the old type original kit kicked off and they are ok as long as you don't try and upgade them through the app...We.all know what happened to Blackberry.. Ha ha
They didn't "brick" gen 1 devices (this video shows a gen 1 play 1). Sonos moved to a different software system, so their old speakers don't communicate with their new speakers. You can still use the gen 1 speakers exactly how they were originally made - they're just not compatible with the new speaker infrastructure so two different apps are required.
@@thisisntforsharing then the rumors about recycling mode might have pointed to what you said instead of replacing the software, they moved to a newer software and ecosystem
There are loads of them on Amazon and Aliexpress but note they have embedded magnets that you have to dig out if you do any mechanical clock/watch repair.
I own a dead Logitech MX Master 3 mouse that I would love to send up for you to look at. Cost a fortune and it seems a common issue after doing some research.
45:13 😱😱😱😱 You did something wrong. It didn't explode 😱😭😭😭 and you didn't like one of the best world wide distributers "Ali -never send original spare parts ever -Xpress " to. Why😭😭🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Super nice repair 👍👍👍👍. Very well and amazing.🍻
Hi I am trying to find the repair cafe you help at as I have a repair that you mite be intrested in and makeing a video, I have enjoyed watching you repair electronics but i have not had any joys i have familey how are close and know about the repair cafe Please help Steve from witney oxfordshire thanks
Today I tried to repair a bosch battery charger. The problem is that many components are erased by the manufacturer. I tried to determine what value of capacitor I should put in place of the suspect one. I thought I was not wrong by much. I plugged it into the mains, no explosion. And after 10 seconds, Boum !🤨 I think I will abandon this repair.
Can you give the name of the conning supplier you bought these bogus components from? I've been conned so many times over with buying stuff on eBay and such that I'm thinking of starting a public page with the names of (provable) bogus component sellers.
@@Jvavolerpareil No, it needs to connect to sonos with an app and have an account which I don't have. The unit was completely dead and had no power. It uses 24v internally to work. The blown power supply now has 24v which is correct. It was flashing, and in the manual it says it's trying to connect to wifi. I wasn't paying and signing up for a sonos account for a speaker that doesn't belong to me.
![Faulty ASUS Gaming Router [RT-AC86U] | Can I FIX It?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pNDlRE5wuFY/mqdefault.jpg)
Sonos were the company that didn't want to support their old hardware any longer, so they announced that they were going to brick all the old speakers, rather than let them keep working and not support whatever functionality the new speakers supported. This was unacceptable for old speakers but ,when they announced it, there were still speakers being sold that would be bricked shortly afterwards. The "good" news was that you could get a discount on a brand new piece of technocrap that could be obsoleted at any time, as long as you spend more money. Needless to say, the backlash made them rethink this brilliant plan to increase company revenue at the expense of consumers. Personally, I wouldn't buy a device whose stereo line-in jack can’t be used without registering an account with Sonos, but maybe that is just me.
Yes, not a fan of these types of thing either 👍
This. It's, in my opinion, the most obnoxious thing to do to your customers.
Sonos was a flatout scam ! Avoid !
That's why there are many company's products I won't buy for me this includes Apple from the old day I would never own their products.
What a bloody palaver just to get into it! Best way to deal with this buggers is don’t buy anything again from them! I ask about technical support before I buy anything now! The throwaway option is finished now! There is so much plastic in the oceans now that it would cover an area twice the area o France!🤬!!! Fraser
great video..! as an ex-TV engineer its great to see things being fixed...i do miss the old days of fault finding.
Thanks 👍
Good fix. I know you like your low melt for component removal but I would recommend wicking it off properly afterwards - if left on it can be brittle and the joint can crack with thermal cycling.
Thanks Andy👍Yes I normally do wick it off (like I did on the small resistor) perhaps I forgot this time on the diode? I can't remember tbh.
I don’t believe my eyes…. Well i do because nothing fazes you. What an absolute nightmare you have managed to turn into a dream. More people have reached the summit of Everest that could do what you have just done. Truly remarkable . And yes i am, yet again on my knees in the “ We are not worthy pose”. Do you remember The Krypton factor. Top job fella top job👍👍
Thanks Darren 👍yes absolute nightmare indeed 🙂
I have two of these, both dead, that I haven't opened up yet. Your timing is impeccable sir.
😂😂😂Nice, well hopefully you now know what to check and replace 👍
@@BuyitFixitwell, it may be a different fault, but at least I have a pointer and I now know how to get the thing apart.
@@NeilTheTurtle I think this is a common issue on dead units.
@@BuyitFixitThanks. I'll pop back here and comment when I get round to them.
Thought to share with you that i found the problem with the headphones i mentioned to you, your troubleshooting tenacity motivated me to persevere, the problem was the 2.5mm jack connector a pin inside was not making contact throwing the Bluetooth pairing mode out which intern communicates to the on board chip. there is a workaround but have ordered new jack from AliExpress.
great work again and thanks for the motivation to fault find my own issue.
Nice one, well done 👍
What a mess, I always think you are a brave man to fully assemble items and then fully test the functions . That item was close to being parts donor!
Thanks 👍yes a bit damage on this one.
What a fantastic repair, well done!
Cheers Nick 👍
Nice repair video. Also, I appreciate that you fast forward through the disassembly (unscrewing screws)
Cheers 👍
I have the same speaker with the same problem. Same resistor burned, and in my case the 8 pin switching IC has a crack across it. Very useful and timely video. Thx 👍
Thanks 👍Hopefully you'll be able to fix it 🙂
Another great repair, Mick. Not a Sonos fan at all, but that didn't stop me enjoying your tenacity in getting it fixed again!!
Thanks 👍 yes not a Sonos fan either 😂😂
Hi Mick, hope all is well your end? 😊 (Wayne Commenting).
SONOS are another company that does not like the "Right To Repair" idea to be honest. They are, what you might call, "Landfill Lovers". They would rather that you binned it, instead of trying to repair it.
This goo that electronics firms like to squirt all over their boards can be a menace. It can become either electricaly conductive or absorb moisture, the moisture then causing a short circuit. If we find that damn stuff, we remove it completely, by far the best policy.
Many Thanks for another great video.
Wayne & Nina
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😄😄😄😄😄😄😄❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
@@ninaevans4501 Cheers Wayne, yes I'm not a fan of companies like this either 😂😂👍
@@BuyitFixit
Time for bed Mick, we're all knackerd.
God Bless and sleep well
From Nina AND Wayne
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️🫂🫂🫂🫂🫡🫡🫡🫡😊😊😊😊🛌🛌🛌🛌🛌🛌
I've ordered probably close to a hundred semiconductor things (discrete and ICs) from ebay/aliexpress and TLDR more than not had a bad experience. Chips are often sanded and rebranded, outright fake, or as you experienced in a prior video they put for eg a 2n2222 transistor die in a large power package so it still tests like a transistor but blows up with any real load applied(ive verified this with decapsulating the die and looking under microscope). Now the only chips I buy from these places are vintage chips not available elsewhere. For repair I source it from digikey, etc cause even with the $8 shipping, its worth not being sus in the new parts.
I've had not too bad experience with Ali in the past however the last few purchases I seem to have had issues with. I do order from Digikey and RS, Mouser etc but the postage cost is around £15! So unless I'm ordering a lot of parts to get free postage it's not very economical. Also a lot of parts seem to be out of stock or are not available.
I've had some MOSFETs from Aliexpress with RDS (on resistance) about 20x what the datasheet says, so clearly fake. Larger MOSFETs seem to be the most common fake parts from Ali.
@@gadgetmind I had pretty much the same experience with Mosfets recently. The Rds(on) was 20 ohms, and according to the datasheet it should have been
I do like the idea of a thermal camera , makes diagnosing more fun ...... I got quite a few things from Ali in the past , all SMD parts are in reel tape , so I trust the authenticity of those parts , it's the bigger Mosfets in the TO-220 style cases and TO-3 styles that can be sanded and restamped .... Plus some bigger IC chips as well .... Whatever I cannot get from DigiKey , Mouser or LCSC , I'll grab from Ali... I have a few known good stores from them written down ..... Take Care Mon Ami ...
Cheers Cajun 👍
Another battle hard fought and won and you say you aint no expert a very advanced novice. Great fix thanks for sharing.
Thank you 👍🙂
It should be a law that once you decide you stop supporting the software you have to make it open source to let others continue supporting it. Or at least make it work without needing servers to work.
Yes, agree! That would be awesome.
I 100% agree! Logitech made that, with their Squeezebox music players. The products and support are discontinued, BUT they released their software source code and installers to the public. Incredible, but TRUE. It's a really one of the rare HAPPY END for a product. So if you got a RaspberryPi used as a player, LMS (Logitech Music Server) is, in my opinion, one of the best way to go !
There is. DCMA allows reverse engineering to retain compatibility and features.
@@Spiderelectron Reverse engineering is a lot of work though, while making the source that runs this available is a lot less work.
Good stuff, i repair these all the time - they have a wealth of different issues. Main thing to do when taking apart is discharge from the bridge rectifier with a discharge pen (definitely get one, they're cheap) as they often hold onto over 300 volts for days. Always enjoy seeing your knowledge at work 👌
Thanks I'd been meaning to make one for a while👍
You don't need a pen. Just use a 2W 100K resistor.
@simontay4851 You can make your own of course but the pens are cheap, easy to use one handed and have a light to tell you when it's discharged. Essential tool to have around
I've never ever had a bridge rectifier retain charge. Only electrolytic capacitors.
@manolisgledsodakis873 not saying the rectifier is holding charge, just a good place to discharge from - connected to the big caps, slightly easier to pinch a discharge pen on.
Man, I wish I had that patience and intelligence.
Thanks 👍
Another great diagnosis and contribution to your local community, well done Mick 😀
Cheers Mike 👍
Great fault finding and patience, too.
Cheers 👍
Thats the first time ive ever heard frustration in your voice 😀 great work as always
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Another epic fix. I know linear regulators get a bad rap.....but I don't recall that they used to explode quite so often as these SMPSUs seem to - they tended to age gracefully ;). SMSPUs are great when all is well, but they really aren't tolerant of much abuse are they. Occasionally makes one hanker for a good old mains transformer, a bridge and a smokin' hot regulator transistor ;)
😂😂Cheers 👍yes old school linear regulators were a whole lot similar and didn't blow up as spectacularly.
That often tends to be the way of these things - simpler often lasts longer (fewer possible failure points), but often while being woefully inefficient. Linear regulators are great for longevity and low noise, but throwing off ~40% of input energy as heat is hardly ideal.
Another sold fix… enjoying content and find your approach very useful in my own tinkering. Please keep up the good content production!
Thanks very much 👍
Hello Mick from Australia🙃
You sir never fail to amaze me with your brilliant repair skills like wow you are great..
Wow, thank you👍🙂
Awesome diagnostics. Aliexpress have a lot to answer for these days, so many people like you having the same issues with a number of their parts… even me.
Great vid as always👍👍
Cheers Darren 👍
Another great fix Mick, I really enjoyed the repair just goes to show don’t trust sellers on eBay or Ali ex, determination pays off every time and yet another happy customer 😊
Cheers Gary 👍
@@BuyitFixit you’re welcome ☺️
Excellent investigative repairs., Mick. I hope your having a great weekend. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍Hope you have a great weekend too!
I don't know what to say really. Another never-give-up repair of which you are stacking up like there's no tomorrow! I would've taken the hammer to it after half the time, lol. Will have to get more hats, because I'm wearing the brims out due to you. 😁 FANTASTIC work! Take care and I hope you reward yourself with some good dram or what you prefer. 😊
😂😂Thanks mate 👍
44:12 - Its OK to solder like this, but there is another method, you can solder two SMD resistors, in Λ shape, where one is left one is right, upright position tilted, in that way, ends are soldered with full width of component, and you are soldering them away from PCB layer (possibly GND or shorting to another signal).
Ah yes I forgot about the tombstone way. These resistors were quite tiny, so I just thought I'd do it like I did. I didn't see anything around them that would cause an issue.
I usually think” Yeah, I could have found that”, about 60% of the time on your videos. This one was most definitely in the other 40%!
Cheers Tim 👍
Great persistence Mick. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks 👍
Nice fix. Fun to watch I had my money on the y or x cap as the main culprit.
Cheers mate 👍🙂
Another great fix Mick. Absolutely brilliant.
Unfortunately SONOS is one of the worst speakers out there. I mean, I'm not talking about the sound quality, I'm talking about the company policy and ease of use.
It's not user-friendly at all, too much hassle to get it connected using a special app for that, plus you must create an account etc.
As far as the company policy goes, they just decide to brick all old models, which to me sounds like a scam. After you pay good money for a speaker, after few years it becomes e-waste.
I would pay the same money for BOSE.
Yes, I wouldn't have one myself. I prefer things that I'm fully in control of. Physical media for instance or download rather than streaming or online purchases which can be taken away at any moment for whatever reason...
Quite interesting. The thermal cam does not necessarily point to the point of failure but helps pinpointing...
Yes it didn't with the IC, but absolutely did with the failed output diode 👍
A bit of a challenge that one was... nice job!
Thank you 👍
Your patience and persistence was tested on this one eh..bad parts didn't help. Hope you get refunded on the components that were no good. Troubleshooting this was brilliant, I never could figure out which culprit was next, good job. Nice video and great repair as always, thanks. See ya next time.
Cheers Terry 👍
Fantastic video Mick thanks, love the way you dig in and give it your best Impressive cheers.
Thanks mate 👍
WOW! The ammount of problems that speaker had and u still managed to fix it! It blew my mind - no pun intended 😂. Is there something electronics wise u can't fix? I'm not gonna lie i was thinking u may had to give up on it if u found another massive hidden problem that cound't be fixed, but once again u show us how the pros do it. Stupendous work!!
Thanks 👍I did have a backup plan of using an external PSU if it was not repairable.
Well done, Mick another sound fix 👍🏼👍🏼
@@sean9595 Cheers Sean 👍
I took too long to discover your channel Mick! And I'm learning so much seeing your "classes" while repairing, thank you so much for the patience explaining the details, recording/editing etc.
I would like to know where did you inject the 1V 1.5A to see the heating diode near 19'00? Thanks again, and cheers from Recife, PE, Brazil!
Cheers mate 👍I injected the voltage on the PSU output capacitors.
Thanks for posting Mick
Cheers Neil 👍
A very interesting troubleshooting session, mate. Getting the wrong or fake parts does not help the troubleshooter. Great job.👍👍
Thanks👍 yes fake and wrong parts don't help at all.
another green peace action ! great job Mike just scary about the skyni smoke but nothing bad !
👍😂😂😂
Happy day, another video/repair and a tricky one.
Thank you 👍
Always a really good detective story :D
Cheers 👍
Thanks kindly for another excellent video. After seeing this and researching Sonos a bit I think I will stay clear of their products. Glad those capacitors were fully discharged. They can be nasty. BTW, if you ever have the opportunity to replace the batteries in an Onkyo OKAX6B/10 Portable Bluetooth speaker I would love to watch. I have one and it is great, but the batteries no longer take a charge and I have no idea of how to get into i without destroying it. Thanks.
You're welcome. I wouldn't buy one of these Sonos products either. I'll see if one of those speakers pops up on eBay 👍
Loved the part where the repair started to actually make you think 😂. Just kidding, great fix as always! I wouldnt have suspected of that lil resistor there, learned a lot.
Thanks 👍🙂
Loved this video! I loathe switch mode power supplies. I've had a bit of a bad run with them myself 😅 I can relate to the process. Do you still experience anxiety around that first power up anticipating the possible bang?
@@robkle9223 Thanks 👍and yes 😂😂😂The starlink router I looked at a few videos back blew up quite spectacularly on camera if you didn't see that one...
Epic fix. Well done 🎉
Thank you 👍
Hi Mick, great stuff from you as always, many thanks from Nr Chester.
Cheers mate 👍
Another great diagnosis and rep :=)
Thank you, and welcome aboard 👍🙂
Very hard fix!!! Great!!!
Thanks 👍🙂
Modern chips (since lead free solder) have a shelf life after which the pins are too oxidised for flow soldering. Some can be recovered by cleaning contacts with abrasive and the use of tin/lead solder. Really old chips solder well because old solder cleans up well with ordinary flux. Possibly cheap chips are just old.
That was leaded solder being used, so nothing to do with it.
@@incandescentwithrage NO! After market chips can be so old that they were made tinned with lead free solder so the oxides on the incoming (old but unused) must be removed with abrasive before they will solder, whatever the incoming free solder.
@@seymourpro6097 Yes I agree. I misread your original post sorry
Really enjoyed super bro need more videos ❤
😂😂Cheers 👍
Great video thanks.
I'm just learning when you inject power for thermal camera. Do you put the power through the charging port? Or do you have any videos explaining where to inject current please
You inject where you suspect or find a short. So you measure across a capacitor for instance and it seems to be short circuit. I'd probably find a ground and inject there. In this case the short was across the diode that feeds the capacitors. The short could have been anywhere before or after that point so I chose to inject there as it seemed a safe and sensible place to start. Only use a low voltage like 1V and start at something like 1A see if anything gets hot, if nothing does, up the amps a bit and repeat.
@BuyitFixit Thank-you for explaining it. I've learnt alot from you 👍
Good job and good video thank you 👍
Thank you too 👍
Hi Mick. You were 'lucky' to find one of the ICs was genuine. I also think they are removed from old PCBs so they are not new ones hence the pins were oxydated. Do you agree ?
They could well be mate. I ordered a transformer for an LCD TV a few videos back and that seemed used and was faulty! One of the chips in the packet wasn't even the correct one.
@@BuyitFixit yes it's sad
Great job well done as ever.
Thank you 👍
I see why you said it was like a Repair Cafe fix I did of switcher, current sense diodes, bridge, and fuse, so I knew after seeing the toasted low ohm resistors the other likely bits you'd have to fix. But I wasn't expecting that secondary diode at all and can't make sense of that. Secondary side faults rarely damage anything on the primary, and vice verse, Most odd. Was the switching chip actually faulty? Probably if the gate drive resistor was also dead.
Yes, I'm pretty sure the switching chip wa s faulty especially with the gate pin resistor OC. I would have just changed it anyway regardless.
@@BuyitFixit The switching chips are what I pretty much never have to hand, so unless top blown off or test utterly bogus, last bit to swap for me. The ones with integrated MOSFET usually have top blown off so you have to grub around to find the shards to try and work out what it actually used to be. External MOSFET ones usually survive, but I agree yours there was probably toast.
That’s the way to fault find keep at it ull find it, an old friend of mine who worked on aircraft electronics used to put a larger fuse in till it didn’t blow and then the faulty item would lol.
😂😂😂😂Cheers 👍
Nice job once again
Thanks again!
Mick, do you ever purchase components from digikey or mouser? We buy from them often and they usually are very prompt in shipping our gear
Yes, but the postage is very expensive. I usually wait until I need a few parts for a few items to try and get free postage, as it's not very economical paying £10-15 postage for a part that costs £1
You definitely do a great job soldering, but I was wondering if you’ve ever seen the UA-camr Mr. solder fix he’s got some great techniques and tricks that might work well in your wheelhouse😊
I've seen his channel pop up a couple of times, but not had a look. A lot of my time is taken up making videos, editing, and running a farm, and doing all the other mundane stuff 😂😂
Hang, I was looking at that bulky capacitor during the initial tear down and thinking of me many years ago sorting out an air con outside unit.😅. Go fast on the straights and slow down on the corners.
😂😂😂
@13:22 I would probably call it quits, figure out the voltages and add an external power supply. Kudos
That was going to be my backup plan if the transformer was open circuit or shorted 🙂👍
Can you explain how your dim bulb test works?
Yes, it's just a bulb wired in series with the live terminal of the socket. It just limits the current and the bulb will light up if there is a short hopefully saving further damage.
@@BuyitFixit I'm just watching your Faulty Erbauer and Milwaukee charger video where you explain this! Thanks again!!!
You are done good trouble shooting sir but still i have confusion and i am looking from datasheet it is showing the 100 ohams resistor but you did the fixed 148 ohams how is this possible can you explain and onece again thanks for the sharing good information.
I didn't see any values on the datasheet, but someone had the a similar fault where the same resistor was blown and someone measured the value and said it was 148 ohms.. So I gave it a go.
Mick, me and the other half have struck lucky. Just found a VAX Blade 32volt vacuum cleaner been dumped at the local WEEE Bin. Thing is, there is NOTHING WRONG WITH IT, AFTER FULL INSPECTIONS AND CHECKS!!! 😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯
Just needs a good clean up. These things aint cheap to buy, what an absolute waste, throwing this good stuff away.
😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣
Nina (From Wayne & Nina).
Nice one 👍I've seen stuff like that happen before. I'm sure people just have too much money 😂😂
The 3 resistors are for current sence circuit. They are parallel.
Ah yes makes sense. I thought they were just protection but current sensing makes sense 😂😂
Those three one ohm resistors look to be paralleled so (any) values to achieve a total of 0.3 ohms would fit on those pads - three resistors being used purely for power dissipation reasons.
I think they are for current sensing, a few people mentioned that and I think they are correct.
@@BuyitFixit Yes, current sensing - that's a given. The lower value you now have means the fault detection requires a HIGHER fault current to cause a shut-down. I doubt it will ever become a problem but........
I’m sat here shouting solder ball at the screen 😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit I noticed a solder ball appear when you were soldering in a component and thought,, Is that bridging two tracks ? 😂😂😂😂
Yes when you text said did you see the fault I looked and saw the IC number was different.
The R178 goes from pin 6 to the source of the FET i.e the top of the 1R resistors that blew, this is quite common fault on this type of switching IC. When the FET goes short it blows the current sense resistors then the rectified mains gets connected across the switching IC via the FET gate series resistor and the current sense pin series resistor blowing all 3 items.
The current sense value on this item should be 0R33 but because you fitted 3 x 0R82 it ends up as 0R27 quite a bit lower. But TBH as you found out that it still did not stop the whole thing blowing even with the 0R33 in when the output diode failed.
Thanks for that mate, I didn't realise at the time that they were current sense resistors, but someone else mentioned that, and it makes total sense (no pun intended 😂😂)
Where to get low melt solder from. And what is it Called?
@@esbenarndt5703 There should be a link in the video description along with other tools etc that I use 👍
Only started the video but I could swear I've read articles before about Sonos purposively bricking their older speakers with firmware updates.
No idea which ones and maybe I've the wrong end of the stick but it's about all I know of the company.
Yeah i believe its the first generation of sonos speakers getting bricked. Although they stopped bricking speakers a few months/years ago cause people where complaining and sonos actually got in some trouble i believe. What sonos did was replace the rootfs with a dummy one which could not have all the functionality of a regualr sonos speaker and they also prevented old gen1 speakers from connecting to the app but i could be wrong
Might be an old thread but the CEO of Blackberry took over and they weren't going to Support old Sonos Bridges.. Everybody with the old type original kit kicked off and they are ok as long as you don't try and upgade them through the app...We.all know what happened to Blackberry.. Ha ha
They didn't "brick" gen 1 devices (this video shows a gen 1 play 1). Sonos moved to a different software system, so their old speakers don't communicate with their new speakers. You can still use the gen 1 speakers exactly how they were originally made - they're just not compatible with the new speaker infrastructure so two different apps are required.
@@thisisntforsharing then the rumors about recycling mode might have pointed to what you said instead of replacing the software, they moved to a newer software and ecosystem
What the thing that control resistor ?
What control amps ?
Where did you get your work mat from ? The blue one.
Link in video description 👍
There are loads of them on Amazon and Aliexpress but note they have embedded magnets that you have to dig out if you do any mechanical clock/watch repair.
@@BuyitFixit thank you very much.
@@gadgetmind Thank you very much.
@@gadgetmindThe comment section once again proves itself a valuable a source of information. Thank you!!!!!
I own a dead Logitech MX Master 3 mouse that I would love to send up for you to look at. Cost a fortune and it seems a common issue after doing some research.
Drop me an email at the channels name at out look dot com
Why cover power components with insulating material like silicone?
Vibrations and shock. I guess during transportation etc.
Trigger's Broom, this one!
😂😂😂
45:13 😱😱😱😱
You did something wrong. It didn't explode 😱😭😭😭 and you didn't like one of the best world wide distributers
"Ali -never send original spare parts ever -Xpress " to. Why😭😭🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Super nice repair 👍👍👍👍. Very well and amazing.🍻
Cheers mate, I'm surprised it didn't explode with a bloody mosfet instead of the switching IC..Just a wiff of smoke instead 😂😂😂
Pffffff what a hard fix i think you give up almost haha 😊
😂😂😂Yes got there in the end though 👍
Hi I am trying to find the repair cafe you help at as I have a repair that you mite be intrested in and makeing a video, I have enjoyed watching you repair electronics but i have not had any joys i have familey how are close and know about the repair cafe Please help Steve from witney oxfordshire thanks
I'm way up in the Northwest mate, the nearest repair cafe to me is in Alston.
Nice
Cheers 👍
Today I tried to repair a bosch battery charger. The problem is that many components are erased by the manufacturer. I tried to determine what value of capacitor I should put in place of the suspect one. I thought I was not wrong by much. I plugged it into the mains, no explosion. And after 10 seconds, Boum !🤨
I think I will abandon this repair.
Damn, shame. Unfortunately it's just the way it pans out sometimes...
Can you give the name of the conning supplier you bought these bogus components from?
I've been conned so many times over with buying stuff on eBay and such that I'm thinking of starting a public page with the names of (provable) bogus component sellers.
I can't remember offhand but it's on the video, top left of the listing.
@@BuyitFixit
Thnx.
👍👍
Cheers 👍
Is this what is generally called "an uneconomic repair"?
Probably, but a lot of repairs quickly become uneconomic unless it's a simple fault, with not much in the way of parts.
good job. but i couldnt spot your mistake. i thought you would explain it at the end
The first chip I fitted was a mosfet. 4141 was the number on it. It was one of the 5 ICs they sent! Not even the correct part.
@@BuyitFixitthis kinda thing makes you very wary of where you buy components, well done Mick 😊
A true struggle.
Yes Indeed 👍🙂
👍
Cheers 👍
please include the circuit board serial no's for those of us who can't afford a fancy microscope...thanks 😁
I heard a sound, but that's not a proof that it's working. Did you hear music afterward ?
@@Jvavolerpareil No, it needs to connect to sonos with an app and have an account which I don't have. The unit was completely dead and had no power. It uses 24v internally to work. The blown power supply now has 24v which is correct. It was flashing, and in the manual it says it's trying to connect to wifi. I wasn't paying and signing up for a sonos account for a speaker that doesn't belong to me.
"I'm not a fan of these types of capacitors" is begging the question.
😂😂😂
Thats why external 5v power is bettter.These black/silver caps are evil and give a mess.
Indeed 👍
Sonos. Wireless. Speaker. Very. Blown. Up. Can l. Fix. It
Funny how you have a "dim Bulb tester" We have a Dim Bulb running for President :-)
i agree
@@VSteam81 Not so bright eh?
Please, shove American politics into everything. The rest of us aren’t human enough to respect.
Not so smart when it blows its self up 😂😂😂 like your switch on blowing up test, can’t hear you lean back 👍👍👍👍🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂Cheers 👍
Apple are the same! Throw it in the bin and buy a new one from Apple! I certainly will never buy from them ever again! Fraser😡
I'm not a fan of apple products either 👍
Considering how expensive these things are that's pretty nasty inside. Resembles generic Chinese tat in all honesty.
😂😂😂
Ali booboo strikes again?
Yes 😂😂😂👍