congrats !! very well explained! just in the process of wiring 2023 bmw seats to a Volvo 240. glad I found your video!! thank you so much for sharing!!
Thank you so much for posting this!!! I'm building a flight sim/racing rig and using the same seat. I used the same components from your links and it works perfectly!
How do you exactly wire the pulse generator? I’m figuring this out myself currently and don’t want to short circuit anything. I have a newer version of the seat. But it’s pretty similar. Two thick wires (red/brown and red) and 3 thin ones (orange/green, green and red) If I get the pulse generator it says that it accepts 12V. So why hassle with the step down module? The car is also 12V obviously or is the CAN Bus signal different? Also how to connect them? Both CAN high and low or only one? And since it’s only one single cable per signal where comes plus and where minus? Thank you in advance. I’m kinda getting a little worried I won’t fight that out.
@@whyilovethemoon In my case the thin red was for the bolsters and lumbar support. It's been a few months, but I believe they run on 5v, but could be misremembering. The green/orange didn't do anything, I just wired it to the cold/blacks. As far as wiring the pwm, the green from the seat goes to the signal and hot/cold just follows your circuit. For what it's worth, you're probably safe from frying it, I did a bit of experimenting and I'm pretty sure I'd have killed it if it could be done.
@TheDeanjenkins. I'm trying to put some Lincoln navigator seats into my Infiniti qx80!! Could I wire those seats to run off of my Computer system. Also where are you located and would you be interested in making a harness
Good morning Dean, Where did you find the printouts on google? i have a couple of E90 BMW seats I want to install in my 1971 VW Bus. You didn't mention where you got the electronics to keep the computer happy. Your vidwo has been the best one i've seen. Thanks
@@cjjones1556 I made a mounting plate to go under the seats, but I haven’t cut the pedestals. In order to be able to see out of the door window and not hit my head on the overhead I have to lower the seat pedestals 2.5 inches. The thing is that if I cut the pedestal it’s also the wheel well! I’m a bit apprehensive about doing the surgery!
Great video. Thank you. Can you confirm the wiring design to connect the Square Wave and Step Down Converter to the seats pigtail? I listen a couple times and can't quite confirm. Thanks
great information! BTW An arduino Nano usually comes preprogrammed with a blinking light program and has an internal regulator, so you can hook it to 12V on the Vin pin and the output on pin 13 is a 5V square wave. So no programming and a single device to do the pulsing.
Great video, I am in the process of doing the same thing, putting E93 seats into my land rover defender. How was the heating with just On/off ? Did they ever overheat ?
Love the video very informative I do have one question is there anyway you could send me the links for the BMW wiring conventions and the wiring diagram? I have tried finding the links that I am having problems.
I forget where I got the wiring conventions, but I copied them and pasted into a Word .doc. Here they are: Here is a great bit of info and I can confirm that two of the colours are correct!! Brown is ground - it is uncovered and stripped in the bundle going to the gauges Grey and Red is a dimmer power 12 V - same as dash lights - will go up and down with wheel on dash. IT is stripped a bit in the bundle going to the switch and dimmer wheel. If you are trying to decypher BMW wiring diagrams, it's rather essential to realise that: BL=blue BR=brown GE=yellow GN=green GR=grey OR=orange RT=red SW=black VI=violet WS=white Some advice I received a long time ago from wiring guru Ron Styger of Unoffical BMW fame: In general, a solid red wire is hot at all times. A red wire with any color stripe is hot at all times after a fuse. In general, a solid green wire is hot in run and start. A green wire with any color stripe is hot in run and start after a fuse. In general, a solid violet wire is hot in accessory, run and start. A violet wire with any color stripe is hot in accessory, run and start after a fuse. In general, brown is ground. Gray with a red stripe is dimmed lighting. For the wiring diagram, I got it from this website: portal-diagnostov.com/en/ Had to pay for it and frankly, now that I finished, I could of just done it with the conventions and not the diagram.
@TheDeanJenkins Thank you so much for your very informative video! I am now a follower, and love your videos too. With regards to the wiring for the step down converter, wave signal generator, *and* relay box, could you please point me at where I can find the wiring schematics? I found your Reddit page that contains the wiring for everything except the relay box, and would really like to use the relay box, especially to allow me to connect seat heater buttons. Also, the step down convertor in your link is different from what is shown in your video and photos, I just wanted to verify this is known by you, and works the same way. I understand the wiring, just wanted to make sure Amazon didn't replace it without you knowing. Incidentally, I am installing E90 seats into a 2002 4Runner. Thanks again!
Most automotive relays have a schematic printed on the case. Really easy to follow. Here is a video explaining: ua-cam.com/video/DWSO3ny74BU/v-deo.html
Great video on explaining the wiring set up! I have installed similar BMW seats installed into my 1999 Toyota Tacoma and very happy with the comfort. now have to deal with the wiring. Couple questions for you regarding the wiring? 1. Did you run power directly from the battery to the relay to power the seat up? 2. If I wanted to have two heat settings for the heated seats how would you do that? another relay? different amounts of amperage or reduced voltage going to the heating elements?
Glad you found it helpful! Yes, I ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relays for seat motors and heaters. 30 amp fuse on each. Relays are energized at ignition on. For high/low settings on the seat heaters, using the BMW controls looked too complex for me. Since I was having the seats re-upholstered anyway I ended up taking out the BMW heating elements when the seat covers were off and installed a universal seat heater kit, which has two settings and which is readily available on Amazon for ~ $100. This kit comes with everything needed, including switches, relays, etc. They work great. Even if you are not installing new upholstery, you could remove the seat covers and do the same. Good luck!
Thank you for the Great Video. I’m in the process of getting the 3 series bucket seats moving also. I’m Just wondering if you used a different seat belt?
Thanks. I used reproduction 3-point kit made for the '68 el Camino. The factory mounting for the seat belt receiver bolted to the floor, but since the BMW seats were a bit wider than factory, that didn't work. The BMW seats have an anchor point to bolt the receiver to but when I bolted the reproduction part to that it was too long and stuck up too far. I sent the two sides off to www.seatbeltplanet.com/ and had them re-web them at the correct length. Worked out great.
Hi Dean How can I get in touch with you about BMW seat wiring. I'm putting 2009 sport seats in a 1969 roadrunner. I see your parts list but I need the wiring schematics. Thank you very much
I got my schematics at portal-diagnostov.com/en/ It was helpful, but truthfully, all I really needed was the BMW wiring conventions that are posted in responses here.
Did you connect all the wires to your new harness? Or did you omit some of the wires out? Also where did you buy your harness? And how many pins did you use? This is so cool! I’m looking to do the same sorry for all the questions
I decided not to use the factory connector that is under the seat, it is too hard to connect and disconnect. There are only 4 wires connecting the seat to the car wiring; -Seat motor power -Seat motor ground -Seat heater power -Seat heater ground The circuit for the CAN Bus is contained in the little project box I installed and is powered by the Seat motor power/ground wires. So, I just used a 4 pin connector for those 4 wires. I bought this connector kit to use here and other places on the car: WP-405 - 405 Piece Delphi Weather Pack 1, 2, & 3 Way Sealed Electrical Connector Kit www.customconnectorkits.com/ All the rest of the wires in the seat are for things I don't need; Seat belt warning, Air bag, etc.
The CAN bus lines are Green with a stripe (High) and Brownish (slight orange tint) with a stripe (Low). I forget the strip colors . . . These were wrapped together in a pair, so easy to see they went together. Low was tied to ground. Green was connected to the generator square wave output. Orange was something else, seatbelt, airbag, etc and was not connected.
Don't want to sound unhelpful or preachy, but the diagrams I have were purchased and are copyrighted. I make my living selling online content and am very sensitive to upholding intellectual property rights. Purchasing the documents was very reasonable. With that said, you may not need the diagram. With this list of BMW color conventions, I could have figured it out, without the actual schematics: In general, a solid red wire is hot at all times. A red wire with any color stripe is hot at all times after a fuse. In general, a solid green wire is hot in run and start. A green wire with any color stripe is hot in run and start after a fuse. In general, a solid violet wire is hot in accessory, run and start. A violet wire with any color stripe is hot in accessory, run and start after a fuse. In general, brown is ground. Gray with a red stripe is dimmed lighting.
I have a simialr project, but I have the seat from a 328 but I don't know where to find the car side connector and pigtail so I can wire it in. Any suggestions?
When I bought mine at a wrecking yard it was still in the car, so was able to get the car side connector and pigtail. Any chance you can go to the source and get that? If not, I would cut off the seat side connector to get easier access to the individual wires. Hopefully enough there to work with. Good luck!
Moving the mechanisms would be a big deal and I'm not even sure if it is possible. But, the only difference between the two seats is the memory function, which I'm pretty sure doesn't work in this application. So, just install the seats: drivers on the left, passenger on the right and it should work fine.
Thank you for sharing. Question: are you running your power constant (battery power)? Do you have any amp draw? I was thinking of hooking the can bus (voltage step down) to ignition power and the main power to battery to let the seat go to sleep. then wake up with ignition on. Not cause any amp draw while car is resting for a period of time. Thoughts?
I hooked up the seat power (which I tied the Can Bus power to) and the seat heater power to a relay that is energized when the ignition is turned on. I used this Relay/Fuse box and it worked really well. amzn.to/3w8kJL2
What are the color codes for the seat back and bottom heating pads, drivers and passenger side? Understood you bypassed the BMW computer and applying +12V and ground directly to them.
I don't remember the exact colors. But the wires are easy to locate. On each seat they are plugged into the control modules and have two connectors on each seat (seat back, seat base elements are separate.) The connectors have two wires each and they follow the general BMW color scheme. Brown, with any color stripe, is always ground. I traced the wires to the actual heater elements to confirm they were correct. Having a wiring diagram will give you the exact colors. Then just wired the +12V and grounds in parallel and connected to a relay.
Since you're already adding a high low switch for the heaters and a relay box, why not set the relays to run the two seat heaters in series for low heat and parallel for high heat.
Both my wife's and my daily driver vehicles have heated leather seats with variable temp settings. What I've found in practice is that we turn the seats on high when we first get in the car, to warm up the cold seat, then turn it off about 15 minutes later. Given that use model, the extra complexity wasn't worth it, to me.
One odd question, then I think I'm set. I didn't get the other side of the pigtail. Are the color codes of the wires common to both sides of the connector the same on both sides? From experience not always the case.
Never mind. I found an X3 at my local pic a part and pulled the pig tails. I did find a picture of the pin out for the plug I'd like to contribute for future viewers. To get past any color code discrepancies, the CAN wires are pins 5 & 6.
Received the Step down and Square Wave Generator you gave links to. It's easy to miss the Volts in/Gnd/ Signal Out labeling for the pins. On your video it looked like Volts in was the far left pin, but on the Square Wave Generator I received it's actually the far right pin. Middle pin Ground, left pin signal out. Once I got it right it works perfectly. Thanks again for posting your video..
@@TheDeanjenkins I ended up getting slightly taller plastic box as the Step Down Generator was, for what ever reason, too tall for the boxes you used. Finished the install today and everything is working great thanks in large part to your video. Thanks again.
Gotcha, thanks for the reply. I just want the power movement functionality so I will just need that inline fuse for the red wire? Ground wires dont require fuses correct? Sorry im a noob when it comes to electrical. @@TheDeanjenkins Thanks a bunch for this video too it makes it super easy. Is there a 12v power adapter you'd recommend to power this thing via a power outlet? I will be using it for a driving simulation rig.
Got it. This should work. You need at least 30 amps. 12v Power Supply 33.3A 400W Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Transformer Adapter, Switch AC 110V/220V to DC 12V 33.3Amp Switching LED Driver for LED Light Strip, Security System, 3D Printer a.co/d/ewywqIu
One more question. The heat control box for the seat heaters is mounted to the passenger seat. What color wires run from that passenger seat location to the drivers seat. And, if I understand, you are running a simple on/of where when on both seats heat up. And, after watching again.
I didn't use the heat control box. It needs a complicated CAN bus signal from the dash computer that I didn't want to try and emulate. I simply hooked up fused +12V to the seat heater elements, which is controlled by a relay. Used 12 gauge wire for that. The relay is hooked up to a small switch for each seat, with 20 gauge wire. The switches are connected to +12V Ignition On power. Not sure if I'm going to mount in the console or on the door panel. So, when the ignition is on and the switch is closed, the relay sends power to the seat heater elements and they get hot. No different heat levels, just ON or OFF.
CAN bus has 2 wires (you have to identify them on your seat - wiring diagram will help.) There is a LOW and a HIGH wire. LOW is tied to ground. Connect the 12V>5V step down convertor input to +12V power and then the +5V output to the Square Wave Generator input. Connect the Square Wave Generator output to the CAN bus HIGH. That is it.
Excellent video! I'm in process of getting my used 3 Series buckets moving to install in a 72 C10. This helps immensely.
congrats !! very well explained! just in the process of wiring 2023 bmw seats to a Volvo 240. glad I found your video!! thank you so much for sharing!!
Just wanted to say thank you 🥺❤
Thank you so much for posting this!!! I'm building a flight sim/racing rig and using the same seat. I used the same components from your links and it works perfectly!
That is awesome! Glad the information helped - and worked.
How do you exactly wire the pulse generator? I’m figuring this out myself currently and don’t want to short circuit anything.
I have a newer version of the seat. But it’s pretty similar. Two thick wires (red/brown and red) and 3 thin ones (orange/green, green and red)
If I get the pulse generator it says that it accepts 12V. So why hassle with the step down module? The car is also 12V obviously or is the CAN Bus signal different?
Also how to connect them? Both CAN high and low or only one? And since it’s only one single cable per signal where comes plus and where minus?
Thank you in advance. I’m kinda getting a little worried I won’t fight that out.
@@whyilovethemoon In my case the thin red was for the bolsters and lumbar support. It's been a few months, but I believe they run on 5v, but could be misremembering. The green/orange didn't do anything, I just wired it to the cold/blacks. As far as wiring the pwm, the green from the seat goes to the signal and hot/cold just follows your circuit. For what it's worth, you're probably safe from frying it, I did a bit of experimenting and I'm pretty sure I'd have killed it if it could be done.
Lots of useful info, communicated effectively… thank you
Thank you! This is the best explained video I've seen on this. I'm putting e92 seat in my Mercedes Sprinter Van.
Thanks. Please post an update when you get it done.
Will do!@@TheDeanjenkins
@TheDeanjenkins. I'm trying to put some Lincoln navigator seats into my Infiniti qx80!! Could I wire those seats to run off of my Computer system. Also where are you located and would you be interested in making a harness
Good morning Dean,
Where did you find the printouts on google? i have a couple of E90 BMW seats I want to install in my 1971 VW Bus. You didn't mention where you got the electronics to keep the computer happy.
Your vidwo has been the best one i've seen.
Thanks
I purchased the wiring diagram for the specific car my seats came out of from portal-diagnostov.com/en/
In the description of this video I have descriptions and links to all the parts I used
Hey there. Just curious if you got this to work in your bus. I'm getting ready to do this in my 77 super beetle.
@@cjjones1556 I made a mounting plate to go under the seats, but I haven’t cut the pedestals. In order to be able to see out of the door window and not hit my head on the overhead I have to lower the seat pedestals 2.5 inches. The thing is that if I cut the pedestal it’s also the wheel well! I’m a bit apprehensive about doing the surgery!
Great video. Thank you. Can you confirm the wiring design to connect the Square Wave and Step Down Converter to the seats pigtail? I listen a couple times and can't quite confirm. Thanks
Great video!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge
great information! BTW An arduino Nano usually comes preprogrammed with a blinking light program and has an internal regulator, so you can hook it to 12V on the Vin pin and the output on pin 13 is a 5V square wave. So no programming and a single device to do the pulsing.
I took a look at the Arduino Nano just now. Yeah, that would have been simpler. I wasn't aware of it at the time.
Great video, I am in the process of doing the same thing, putting E93 seats into my land rover defender.
How was the heating with just On/off ? Did they ever overheat ?
Thank you so very much. I have two vehicles to do this for.
How about showing the wiring of the seat in detail
Hi thanks for video, its really helpful, just 1 question, it’s the memory seat still working? If it’s not, do you have any idea how to make it work?
Love the video very informative I do have one question is there anyway you could send me the links for the BMW wiring conventions and the wiring diagram? I have tried finding the links that I am having problems.
I forget where I got the wiring conventions, but I copied them and pasted into a Word .doc.
Here they are:
Here is a great bit of info and I can confirm that two of the colours are correct!!
Brown is ground - it is uncovered and stripped in the bundle going to the gauges
Grey and Red is a dimmer power 12 V - same as dash lights - will go up and down with wheel on dash. IT is stripped a bit in the bundle going to the switch and dimmer wheel.
If you are trying to decypher BMW wiring diagrams, it's rather essential to realise that:
BL=blue
BR=brown
GE=yellow
GN=green
GR=grey
OR=orange
RT=red
SW=black
VI=violet
WS=white
Some advice I received a long time ago from wiring guru Ron Styger of Unoffical BMW fame:
In general, a solid red wire is hot at all times.
A red wire with any color stripe is hot at all times after a fuse.
In general, a solid green wire is hot in run and start.
A green wire with any color stripe is hot in run and start after a fuse.
In general, a solid violet wire is hot in accessory, run and start.
A violet wire with any color stripe is hot in accessory, run and start after a fuse.
In general, brown is ground.
Gray with a red stripe is dimmed lighting.
For the wiring diagram, I got it from this website:
portal-diagnostov.com/en/
Had to pay for it and frankly, now that I finished, I could of just done it with the conventions and not the diagram.
@TheDeanJenkins
Thank you so much for your very informative video! I am now a follower, and love your videos too.
With regards to the wiring for the step down converter, wave signal generator, *and* relay box, could you please point me at where I can find the wiring schematics? I found your Reddit page that contains the wiring for everything except the relay box, and would really like to use the relay box, especially to allow me to connect seat heater buttons.
Also, the step down convertor in your link is different from what is shown in your video and photos, I just wanted to verify this is known by you, and works the same way. I understand the wiring, just wanted to make sure Amazon didn't replace it without you knowing.
Incidentally, I am installing E90 seats into a 2002 4Runner.
Thanks again!
Most automotive relays have a schematic printed on the case. Really easy to follow.
Here is a video explaining: ua-cam.com/video/DWSO3ny74BU/v-deo.html
Great video on explaining the wiring set up! I have installed similar BMW seats installed into my 1999 Toyota Tacoma and very happy with the comfort. now have to deal with the wiring.
Couple questions for you regarding the wiring?
1. Did you run power directly from the battery to the relay to power the seat up?
2. If I wanted to have two heat settings for the heated seats how would you do that? another relay? different amounts of amperage or reduced voltage going to the heating elements?
Glad you found it helpful!
Yes, I ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relays for seat motors and heaters. 30 amp fuse on each. Relays are energized at ignition on.
For high/low settings on the seat heaters, using the BMW controls looked too complex for me.
Since I was having the seats re-upholstered anyway I ended up taking out the BMW heating elements when the seat covers were off and installed a universal seat heater kit, which has two settings and which is readily available on Amazon for ~ $100. This kit comes with everything needed, including switches, relays, etc. They work great.
Even if you are not installing new upholstery, you could remove the seat covers and do the same.
Good luck!
I gather one of the black plugs into the controller is for the passenger seat and the other black plug is for the drivers seat
Thank you for the Great Video. I’m in the process of getting the 3 series bucket seats moving also. I’m Just wondering if you used a different seat belt?
Thanks. I used reproduction 3-point kit made for the '68 el Camino. The factory mounting for the seat belt receiver bolted to the floor, but since the BMW seats were a bit wider than factory, that didn't work. The BMW seats have an anchor point to bolt the receiver to but when I bolted the reproduction part to that it was too long and stuck up too far.
I sent the two sides off to www.seatbeltplanet.com/ and had them re-web them at the correct length. Worked out great.
@@TheDeanjenkins Thank you for the quick reply… Happy Thanksgiving… cheers
Hi Dean How can I get in touch with you about BMW seat wiring. I'm putting 2009 sport seats in a 1969 roadrunner. I see your parts list but I need the wiring schematics. Thank you very much
I got my schematics at portal-diagnostov.com/en/
It was helpful, but truthfully, all I really needed was the BMW wiring conventions that are posted in responses here.
I finished it, Thanks they work perfectly.@@TheDeanjenkins
Did you connect all the wires to your new harness?
Or did you omit some of the wires out?
Also where did you buy your harness? And how many pins did you use?
This is so cool! I’m looking to do the same sorry for all the questions
I decided not to use the factory connector that is under the seat, it is too hard to connect and disconnect.
There are only 4 wires connecting the seat to the car wiring;
-Seat motor power
-Seat motor ground
-Seat heater power
-Seat heater ground
The circuit for the CAN Bus is contained in the little project box I installed and is powered by the Seat motor power/ground wires.
So, I just used a 4 pin connector for those 4 wires.
I bought this connector kit to use here and other places on the car:
WP-405 - 405 Piece Delphi Weather Pack 1, 2, & 3 Way Sealed Electrical Connector Kit
www.customconnectorkits.com/
All the rest of the wires in the seat are for things I don't need;
Seat belt warning, Air bag, etc.
@@TheDeanjenkins the two can bus lines how are they connected green to generator ? and where is the orange wire to ? thanks
The CAN bus lines are Green with a stripe (High) and Brownish (slight orange tint) with a stripe (Low). I forget the strip colors . . . These were wrapped together in a pair, so easy to see they went together.
Low was tied to ground. Green was connected to the generator square wave output.
Orange was something else, seatbelt, airbag, etc and was not connected.
@@TheDeanjenkins thank you
Trying to put a set of E90 seats into an E36. Would it be possible for a copy of the wiring diagram please?cheers
Don't want to sound unhelpful or preachy, but the diagrams I have were purchased and are copyrighted. I make my living selling online content and am very sensitive to upholding intellectual property rights. Purchasing the documents was very reasonable. With that said, you may not need the diagram. With this list of BMW color conventions, I could have figured it out, without the actual schematics:
In general, a solid red wire is hot at all times.
A red wire with any color stripe is hot at all times after a fuse.
In general, a solid green wire is hot in run and start.
A green wire with any color stripe is hot in run and start after a fuse.
In general, a solid violet wire is hot in accessory, run and start.
A violet wire with any color stripe is hot in accessory, run and start after a fuse.
In general, brown is ground.
Gray with a red stripe is dimmed lighting.
Hey Sir! Nice job on your project. Do you hace an idea on how to connect or making work a g01 seat that does not have the module in the driver seat?
I have a simialr project, but I have the seat from a 328 but I don't know where to find the car side connector and pigtail so I can wire it in. Any suggestions?
When I bought mine at a wrecking yard it was still in the car, so was able to get the car side connector and pigtail. Any chance you can go to the source and get that? If not, I would cut off the seat side connector to get easier access to the individual wires. Hopefully enough there to work with. Good luck!
Thats awsome! Thank you for the video!
Did the memory buttons worked as the module was "awaken"?
Would you mind putting the links to the diagrams you used in the note section, Please?
I purchased the wiring diagram for the specific car my seats came out of from portal-diagnostov.com/en/
Hello, can I move the mechanism of the seats of a right-hand drive vehicle to the left?
Moving the mechanisms would be a big deal and I'm not even sure if it is possible. But, the only difference between the two seats is the memory function, which I'm pretty sure doesn't work in this application. So, just install the seats: drivers on the left, passenger on the right and it should work fine.
Thank you for sharing. Question: are you running your power constant (battery power)? Do you have any amp draw? I was thinking of hooking the can bus (voltage step down) to ignition power and the main power to battery to let the seat go to sleep. then wake up with ignition on. Not cause any amp draw while car is resting for a period of time. Thoughts?
I hooked up the seat power (which I tied the Can Bus power to) and the seat heater power to a relay that is energized when the ignition is turned on.
I used this Relay/Fuse box and it worked really well.
amzn.to/3w8kJL2
@@TheDeanjenkins Does your driver seat have memory?
No. Pretty sure memory settings are stored in main body computer, not the seat controller.
What are the color codes for the seat back and bottom heating pads, drivers and passenger side? Understood you bypassed the BMW computer and applying +12V and ground directly to them.
I don't remember the exact colors. But the wires are easy to locate. On each seat they are plugged into the control modules and have two connectors on each seat (seat back, seat base elements are separate.)
The connectors have two wires each and they follow the general BMW color scheme. Brown, with any color stripe, is always ground.
I traced the wires to the actual heater elements to confirm they were correct.
Having a wiring diagram will give you the exact colors.
Then just wired the +12V and grounds in parallel and connected to a relay.
The wires are Green and Brown with the Green wire to the seat backs having a stripe.
Do you know what wires/colors are for passenger seat CAN H AND CAN L
High is always some version of green
@@TheDeanjenkins thank you for the quick response much appreciated
Since you're already adding a high low switch for the heaters and a relay box, why not set the relays to run the two seat heaters in series for low heat and parallel for high heat.
Both my wife's and my daily driver vehicles have heated leather seats with variable temp settings. What I've found in practice is that we turn the seats on high when we first get in the car, to warm up the cold seat, then turn it off about 15 minutes later. Given that use model, the extra complexity wasn't worth it, to me.
One odd question, then I think I'm set. I didn't get the other side of the pigtail. Are the color codes of the wires common to both sides of the connector the same on both sides? From experience not always the case.
Never mind. I found an X3 at my local pic a part and pulled the pig tails. I did find a picture of the pin out for the plug I'd like to contribute for future viewers. To get past any color code discrepancies, the CAN wires are pins 5 & 6.
Pin 5 is CAN High, Pin 6 in CAN Low
Received the Step down and Square Wave Generator you gave links to. It's easy to miss the Volts in/Gnd/ Signal Out labeling for the pins.
On your video it looked like Volts in was the far left pin, but on the Square Wave Generator I received it's actually the far right pin. Middle pin Ground, left pin signal out. Once I got it right it works perfectly.
Thanks again for posting your video..
Just saw this now. Sounds like you got it working. Good job!
Did you get the little plastic boxes I linked to (or similar) to package up the electronics? Makes a nice neat install.
@@TheDeanjenkins I ended up getting slightly taller plastic box as the Step Down Generator was, for what ever reason, too tall for the boxes you used. Finished the install today and everything is working great thanks in large part to your video. Thanks again.
@@jonhosea3135 Great! Glad I could help in some way.
You only need an inline fuse on the red wire I assume?
EVERY circuit needs a fuse on the hot side. Seat power, heaters, logic. All.
Gotcha, thanks for the reply.
I just want the power movement functionality so I will just need that inline fuse for the red wire? Ground wires dont require fuses correct? Sorry im a noob when it comes to electrical. @@TheDeanjenkins Thanks a bunch for this video too it makes it super easy. Is there a 12v power adapter you'd recommend to power this thing via a power outlet? I will be using it for a driving simulation rig.
Got it. This should work. You need at least 30 amps.
12v Power Supply 33.3A 400W Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Transformer Adapter, Switch AC 110V/220V to DC 12V 33.3Amp Switching LED Driver for LED Light Strip, Security System, 3D Printer a.co/d/ewywqIu
@@TheDeanjenkins thank you I appreciate it. You think 400w is minimum? Or these are more reliable than those cheap 12v power supplies?
Pay attention to Amps. Seat Power is a 30 Amp circuit
do ya have to fool the passenger seat too?
No. Passenger seat has a simpler control module. I think the drivers seat is more complicated because of the memory setting.
One more question. The heat control box for the seat heaters is mounted to the passenger seat. What color wires run from that passenger seat location to the drivers seat. And, if I understand, you are running a simple on/of where when on both seats heat up. And, after watching again.
I didn't use the heat control box. It needs a complicated CAN bus signal from the dash computer that I didn't want to try and emulate.
I simply hooked up fused +12V to the seat heater elements, which is controlled by a relay. Used 12 gauge wire for that.
The relay is hooked up to a small switch for each seat, with 20 gauge wire. The switches are connected to +12V Ignition On power. Not sure if I'm going to mount in the console or on the door panel.
So, when the ignition is on and the switch is closed, the relay sends power to the seat heater elements and they get hot. No different heat levels, just ON or OFF.
Got it. Thanks again for taking the time to post this video. SO helpful.
So the controller will shut off the seat movement functionality after 5-10 minutes? Or is that just for the heat functionality ?
The controller will definitely shut off the seat movement, not sure about the heaters, didn't test that.
Great video! Is the lumbar/side bolster (black/red) pin 7 on 30 amp fuse as well?
Not sure of the pin number, but yes power for all the motors is supplied on the same wire with a 30 amp fuse.
Heaters are on a separate wire/fuse.
A little confusing because my wires are different colors but the concept is the same/ appears to work fine.
What year are your seats
I'm trying to wire 2014 m6 into a 1994 E150
@@juanchao8122 2009 bmw 135i coral seats
@@juanchao8122 I looked up the seat wire diagram, all you need is high and low comp wire and the red and black wires. The colors vary
where do you land the low kan bus wire
Just tied it to ground.
Thank You, however it works then it stops working and then when it sets for about 30 seconds it works again any ideas@@TheDeanjenkins
it works then times out for 30 seconds any ideas
@@SteveSievers-t2k Did you set up the square wave generator on the CAN Bus High line? That is what keeps it from timing out.
Thank you , it still has a little delay any ideas how to correct that@@TheDeanjenkins
Perhaps a simple wiring diagram with color code?
CAN bus has 2 wires (you have to identify them on your seat - wiring diagram will help.) There is a LOW and a HIGH wire. LOW is tied to ground.
Connect the 12V>5V step down convertor input to +12V power and then the +5V output to the Square Wave Generator input.
Connect the Square Wave Generator output to the CAN bus HIGH.
That is it.
Why do i need square wave generator? What happens if there is constant 5v