cksidekick 1977 I would add a door and sound proofing material to block some of the noise of the compressor but leave small window in the back for heat disbursement.
I would add a door and sound proofing material to block some of the noise of the compressor but leave small window in the back for heat disbursement. Also, you can put it on a pullout drawer with a door.
You should mount a ratcheting hose reel on the side of the cabinet since your air compressor is in there. So rather than having the pull out the air compressor every time, you just pull the hose out. Harbor freight sells a cheap and very good hose reel too. And if you make the stand a little bit wider, you can put foam in the insert and will make the compressor much quieter.
But you shouldn't use a compressor when it's in a closed compartment. It'll get too hot. You can only use foam at the bottom to reduce vibration sound (metal to wood)
If you add two metal pipes under the bench drill table you could create wings that add to the sides to extend it by sliding smaller tubes into the other ones. This means you can have the surface at any hight and still get the suport
Was just getting on here to post the same thing. Even if you use the compressor while it's in that compartment, it'd be handy to be able to slide it out and adjust the pressure or turn it on/off.
Put an air compressor hose reel (retractable would be best!) on the outside of the stand, and drill a half-inch (or maybe 3/4") hole to pass the hose through...
Steve- extend the front old the base toward you. The force on the quill is applied down or down & toward the operator and you want the resultant vector to land within the footprint of the wheels when drilling steel. You can position wheels out by wheeling it away from you each time which gives a couple extra inches to front of footprint. Basically you want it tip-proof. Some junk steel plate screwed to the back of cabinet down low also helps tippyness.
You have convinced me. Not to do what you are doing, but to do what I have always thought the optimal method. When I get another small (benchtop) conventional press- I presently have a LARGE floor unit and several precision presses- the factory base will be scrapped. The table will be hard mounted flush with the base cabinet at a good useful height, and there will be a guide in the base for the column, and clearance will be made for the crank. The crank will jack the column and head up and down. When I need 2HP to turn a 1-2/3 bit through steel, I have the large press. When I don't want an aching back doing 500 4mm holes in duplicate parts, I will have the setup.
Thank you for brightening my morning and everyone's 'whatever time of day' they watch. I use castors by fixing them to a separate piece of wood hinged on the outer edge. You lift one side, use your foot to swing the castors under, and then do the same the other side. When you've moved the item you reverse the process.
Retractable casters are SO easy and fun to make! Especially with whatever graphic design software you decide to use, you can work out angles, measurements, etc., for any size wheel. The idea of stepping on a pedal attached to the end of a hidden arm, and raising/lowering the entire cabinet a half-inch or so just always struck me as the best way, since sitting down on the skirt piece like that, it's more solid on the floor than the best locking wheels. And the principles for the system aren't that hard. Picture 4 swivel casters (no locking), 2 mounted on a rear tilt board, 2 on a front tilt board, with the 2 tilt boards joined in the middle by 2 hinges. Make the rear tilt board a couple inches longer, and to this projecting end, glue/screw a lever that will project from that board forward, through the front of the cabinet. When the tilt boards are angled, that's the retracted position, casters not touching the floor as the cabinet sits on its skirt, and the lever pointed up at an angle. When the tilt boards are flat in the same plane, that's the extended position, cabinet resting/riding on the casters, and the lever handle in the down position. The back edge of the rear tilt board, and the front edge of the front board, are each touching front/back lips up inside the front and back of the skirt, made from 2x2 stock. When the lever is pressed down, flattening the tilt boards, the front and back edges of the tilt boards lift the cabinet by those lips. Once you have all the angles and measurements worked out, such as the depth of the the skirt needed for the size of the casters, how far in from the front/back edges the casters need to be mounted to the tilt boards in order to minimize the tilt-up in the middle needed (toward the hinge requires less tilt, toward the edges requires more tilt, and the casters being farther apart make the cabinet more stable, less 'tippy'), how far up you want to raise the cabinet (1/2" is usually sufficient), and how far you want the lever handle to travel up and down in the slot (depending on travel, you may need to cut this slot in the cabinet front, or have the arm on an extension and sticking out the side), then you're all set! Rig up a pivoting foot pedal on the end of the lever arm, and a stop on the front of the cabinet near the bottom of the slot, under which the edge of the foot pedal can catch when it's in the down position (casters down). Even without SketchUp, the system is a lot of fun to figure out and make for your size cabinet, casters, etc. It can even be made as a standalone assembly, then added to a flat-bottom cabinet that you may have built with a removable pedestal/toe-kick!
I always look forward to these videos. I really like how you take us through the whole thought process and design processes in addition to the builds themselves.
Steve: Regarding Casters. I *never* lock more than two caster, and in fact I usually only lock one caster. So I would suggest that you just put just two of those fancy (expensive) casters on the front of the cabinet, and just put cheap non-locking casters on the back. That way you still have two nice double-locking casters available for another cart.
@@1averageamerican Rookie question: Why two in front and two in back? My inclination would be to have the locking casters placed diagonally from each other. Does having the casters next to each other reduce movement enough to make walking around a cart with diagonal casters an unnecessary annoyance?
@@smilemakeafunny I used to place locking casters diagonally on a mobile work stand, but ultimately, I found having the casters closest to the side you're standing at was best for stability, and it conveniently makes it easier to engage and unlock the casters from the same side that you're moving the work stand/bench.
For tools that are top-heavy, you can always add weight in the space between the casters by bolting (TapCon-ing?) a concrete patio paver, the 18x18" kind. It doesn't intrude on the usable space since it's below the bottom of the cabinet, and if the cabinet is sized appropriately, the casters won't come in contact with the paver while swiveling. It's all clear in my head I swear!
Steve, I would cut a big hole on the left side, the compressor side, and then put in a metal grate kind of like the recent cabinet doors you made so the compressor can breathe and doesn't overheat. I have a little compressor in my office I use for my airbrush, and that thing gets really hot under my desk and when it overheats I have to let it cool down. I worry you will put strain on yours boxing it in.
Love the idea of putting your air compressor in there. A good idea would to cut a hole in the bottom for the release/drain for moisture build up. And something I have see other people do is make a copper pipe that connects to the air compressor and then leads off to new hose connections at a more convenient spot. Could go up and out the left side there if you do this. Of course, not something you would have to do now, could be a future add-on. With that, you may want the back of the air compressor accessible, maybe make a removable panel or a door on the back?
Great idea on putting your compressor into the base for a base weight. I would suggest on putting it on a horizontal drawer/pullout to allow easier access to the motor. You can even add a couple or one hinged legs that fall down when you pull the compressor out and fold up when the compressor is pushed in. Just an idea.
Something to consider. I keep my compressor upstairs in the attic. I have a pull down wheel with 25’ of hose hanging from the ceiling. It’s super convenient, saves space (with it being up top) and is also quite a bit quieter.
Hi Steve, I have the same issue about height for power tool cabinets/stands. Mine need to be moved from time to time, so I need casters. Initially, I built my drill press stand using 4-inch casters - but that resulted in table height too high. Then, I read about a system that the "R" place sells ... which is a metal plate that permanently attaches to the base of the woodwork and accepts a special caster that can be temporarily slipped into the metal plate and used when the tool needs to be moved. The metal plates are much less expensive than a set of casters. I only needed one set of four plates for each gadget - and one set of casters overall. The plates allow me to design the stand to rest directly on the shop floor. Check out that system. I think it might be a good thing for your movable tool stands/cabinets. I like it, so far.
Just got a drill press for my shop can’t wait to see your finished product. Right not it is sharing a space with my miter saw but I have to move it when I want to use the miter saw’s right side.
You could put the air compressor in the back width-wise, like the "secret compartment" on the printer stand. Then you can have some drawers or cubbies on the back as well to separate your compressor attachments into. This leaves the front for all drawers for your drill press. The weight distribution might not be ideal, idk, but you can always inset the compressor a bit and have shallower drawers on bottom on the opposite side. This orientation would also make it easier to remove the compressor when needed. Cheers, mate!
If anything error on the side of too low. If it’s a little too low you can always shim it up. It’s a lot harder to make it lower once the cabinet is done.
If you keep the drill press on that wall where the cabinet is you could make some custom storage on the wall to keep all your bits. They'd be in the open and easy to access.
For the air compressor, mount a shelf on slides. The compressor can then be slid out when needed without having to reach in and lift the compressor when needed.
the top drawer of your cabinet, make a bunch of compartments and you can store bulk drill bits and leave one for dull drill bits "someday I'll sharpen them" I buy jobber lots of drill bits because that someday hasn't happened yet but I do dull bits.
Love the drawer love!! :-) I look forward to this every evening Steve! I am a small business owner, and there are SOOO many decisions having to be made/ modified every day besides the normal business operation ones, and this is something that really helps me to relax. Thank you!!!! And it reminds me to get into my little shop and do something/ make something. :-) I've made 3 things, and I think I need to rearrange the shop, and like you , paint all my walls white. I have a basement shop- half of it I painted white, which I love and the other half still has the gray cinder block. So cheap paint sprayed on that and the ceiling and organization is my next shop work! :-) Thank you again for the inspiration! Really looking forward to the skechup tutorial, as I have not had the time to figure that out. :-)
I just built a stand for my new 10” drill press and found that I had made it too tall (definitely top heavy!) so I cut 3” off the stand and it’s much better now! Still a bit top heavy but what I did was put my grinder on the bottom and now it’s well balanced. I just put the grinder on my workbench if I need it (which is not often). Your compressor serves the purpose for sure. I only have one drawer under the drill press for “stuff”!😉 The height of my stand, including wheels is 34”. Enjoying your new format 👍
Oh yeah!, I found your video within the hour of you posting it. I just want to say thank you for posting videos every day I find them encouraging and I enjoy watching your Channel it’s like talking to a good friend. I’m a teacher and I’ve been recording video lessons since were all at home and I enjoy watching my favorite UA-cam videos with the perspective of setting up the camera and editing them afterwards
Hi Steve, I'm utilising the space under my drill press also with storage for my compressor as you are.I am adding a drawer slides on a shelf for easier access to remove compressor in and out without breaking my back every time I need to remove it.Just a suggestion . Great content as usual thanks and stay safe.
I like the idea of the compressor to the side on the bottom. You could also cut a hole in that side so the hose can connect to the valve & put a hose rack (like garden hose) on the side. It would be great storage for it as well as usability.
I was just thinking you could use your air compressor. Then you showed it. Also you can get 25’ of hose from Walmart for $10. So you can leave the air compressor in the stand and have enough hose to get all over. And it would be nice to have space to store air tools and accessories near the compressor. So it’s a one stop shop. And if you make the drill press easily removable you could have a nice air compressor caddy that you can take places that has everything.
Steve, one thing you may consider in that drill press stand is putting your air compressor on little locking casters that can be locked into that area when not in use and then you can pull it out and roll around your shop when you need to use it in other areas of your shop.
Steve, If you don’t install drawer slides, the making of drawers aren’t as much of a hassle. You won’t be using the drawers under the drill press that often so just make them so that they slide on the drawer wood frame. I did for six drawers that I put under my work bench top and have had no problem. I put wax on the bottom of the drawer sides maybe once a year and they work great! Might be good for the beginner woodworker wanting to make simple old style drawers.
I was so hoping for a motorized lift that would allow the drill press to raise and lower in a cabinet with a nifty remote (or phone/watch app) to whatever height you wanted, and could allow storage under the wall cabinets when rolled there.
Just a thought,if you move your cabinet to make room for the drill press you wil have to mount it about a foot higher to allow access to the electrical outlets that are there.
What I use for ballast in my tablesaw stand are two boxes of flat steel off cuts I got on the cheap for all sorts of tinkering. Scrap box would also be good.
As far as material for weight, when I worked for home Depot I had a customer come to buy something for ballast in their sail boat and what the ended up using was lead flashing, it's used for roofing. A roll is easy to flatten into the shape of a brick just by hand and each roll was over 50lbs so lots of weight in very little space. I forget how much it cost though it wasn't in item I delt with too often.
Can't wait to see you build the drill press. Another video idea for the future would be on the different types of router bits and what they are used for. Another thing, a little off topic, what kind and where do you get your iron on edge banding? Keep up the great videos!
I think that using the compressor for stability is a great idea. Two thoughts about that, first to make sure that it can get enough cooling and second perhaps mount a connector for an air hose on the cabinet.
Hey steve make the cabinet as short as you want... if its too low take casters off and add 3/4 ply. Blocks until you reach the right height then add casters back on
And if you do decide to add a hose reel on the left side. I’d add a door to hide the air compressor plus it’ll cut the noise down a bit and add vent holes on the back side of the cabinet
I have found some instability issues with shallow cabinets and those large wheels. Look at the mounting point and the contact point with the floor you will find it can create a narrow wheelbase depending on where your wheels are pointing.
idk how feasible it is, but as someone who just started going through your paid sketchup tutorial, something I’d like to see is how you iterate on designs in sketchup. It sounds like you use it to visualize & tweak, and it’s my hypothesis that seeing that process would be useful. Maybe it’s in the paid content and I just haven’t gotten to it yet, but I’m making the explicit request as you work on the tutorial for the drill press stand in case you have the time & inclination to include some of that. Thanks for the daily videos!
If you're thinking of using the compressor in situ, you might want to put some vibration isolation in (foam/rubber) rather than adding the reverb feature to the compressor. BTW - love this channel and the current format is a great start to another day locked in the home "office". It's great seeing the process as it unfolds, and even better when it goes wrong because that's just like when I do it - albeit more often for me ;)
Sweet! When doing the SketchUp video, please consider demonstrating how you got the images of a drill press and air compressor into the design you create. Thanks Steve!
I think they're the imported models that you can get while using SketchUp. Many premade models are available but the actual feature name escapes me at the moment because I'm not that advanced either 🤫
It might be a good idea, to enclose the compressor completely and to insulate that space. That will dramatically reduce the noise level. To connect your tools to the compressor you could attach a connector to the side or where ever is comfortable to you...
For dust collection, what I did is mount some 2.5" Loc-line to the wall behind the drill press, connected to my ductwork with a blast gate. When I want dust collection, I can bend the Loc-line out over the drill press table. When I don't, I just bend it back out of the way. It's fairly convenient to use, and it stays out of the way when I don't want it. But after setting that up, I find that I almost never use it. I have a floor-standing drill press (the Nova Voyager, which is great!) so I just keep a bucket under the drill press and sweep the chips into it every now and then. Maybe that will change after I build the cabinet I'm planning to sit under the drill press table to store my drill bits.
At 2:30 you talked about lifting casters. A couple weeks ago I finished my first project inspired by your video series, which was a modification of your table saw cart design with the lifting caster feature, I think it turned out great. I'd be happy to share a parts list and short video.
I would be very careful about the center or gravity of the drill press. I made a very similar rolling cart to your current one, and, of course, had the drill press base all nicely centered on the cabinet top, only to find that the actual CG was so far back that the cart was constantly threatening to tip over on to it's back when I moved it. Luckily, I had enough real estate on the cabinet top that I could slide the base far enough forward before permanently mounting it to give it better stability.
Yep Steve I discounted back injuries till it permanently disabled me 10years ago, if I could trade I think I would have rather lost a leg. Congrats with the channel, some of your projects I can do at home just takes way longer with pacing myself these days. Kitchen rolling island for wife took 3 months but she enjoys it.
You could add a drop down (folding) stool on one of the sides of the cabinet for when you need to change the belts on the top, then you can just focus on the height for when you are working with the press.
To fit your router table, it looks like you could chop the bottom of the shelving unit off and make it wall mounted so you can slide the router underneath, or the BMW, either way. 👍 Love the channel
Steve, regarding storage of the sleds you could incorporate those into your table saw somehow. I think Bob Clagett did something like that on his channel "I Like to Make Stuff". Maybe you'd use the sleds more if they were right where you needed them. Anyway LOVE the daily videos. Hope you're doing well!
If you're going to put your air compressor in the drill cabinet make sure to have a hole where the tank drain is. It would suck for condesation to build up and have you release it just to shoot water all over the cabinet.
steve if i was going to put my air compressor in that cabinet i would use deawer slides and mount them to the bottom of the cabinet with a piece of plywood on the top so you can just pull it out and slide it in,,alot easier than wrestling with the air compressor to slide it in that hole in the cabinet
Maybe put that compressor on with some drawer slides so you can more easily take it in and out/get to the back side of it to release pressure when you need to.
Steve, Everybody is unique and different. I would set up a surface on a couple saw horses. Adjust height with layers of scrap plywood. Play with differing heights to find YOUR comfort level. THEN design a permanent base.
Late suggestion: I have a 6"x6" insert in my drill press table with miters going down to hold the insert in place. This way when the insert gets chewed up, I simply slide out and replace without messing with the table & fence. I tried to draw it out in Sketchup and it looks awful -- SO looking forward to your Sketchup lessons. Thanks for a great channel.
On the casters... Mount them cantilevered outside the left/right sides of the cabinet. Why? You'll have easy access to all 4 casters to lock them down (especially the full locking casters). Otherwise, you can really only lock the front pair of casters because their locking levers will be fully accessible as you push the cabinet away from you. The two rear caster's locking levers would be under the cabinet and it's difficult to get your toes in there to lock them down.
Steve, what about making a slide out shelf for the compressor that comes out just far enough to hook up the air line? Then you don't even need to take it out of the stand.
Have you considered making the top in the shape of a 'baseball home plate'? That would allow you to: push it straight into the corner and work on pieces of wood less than 2 feet wide and access the drawers & air compressor without having to pull it out.
Hey Steve , thanks for the daily video's , you could put the compressor [which is very compacted as if someone has compressed it ] on a sliding tray , G
It's always nice to get a shout-out! It doesn't happen very often, but it's always nice. (Unless the shout-out is being made to point out some stupid error on my part...)
If you are not looking forward to building all those drawers, you can simply replace them with a cabinet with sliding shelves. You just need 1 door instead of 4 - 5 drawer fronts while the shelves only realy need 2 sides for the slides, although a back could be handy to prevent pushing stuff over the back end.
For adding weight try finding a metalwork company that presses sheet steel. They normally recycle their waste but might supply a bucket that would be very dense and weighty. Just mix it with epoxy resin to have an encapsulated ballast weight that you can fix into any low compartment for stability
I wouldn't run the compressor in the drill press cabinet. Just store it there. But since it's heavy and stored in the cabinet with very little space around it to pick it up and pull it out, strongly suggest you build a pull out shelf with drawer slides. Will be easier for taking it out and putting it back in.
I have recently purchasd a drill press. It's interesting seeing you having the same dilemma over working height of the drill that I am having. Width and depth no problem, but height oh heck. Not the lightest of items to left around for try outs. Looking forward to the build.
I measured my drill press cabinet and I have 43 inch to the top of the cabinet.... What I love about it is my eyes are so close to the piece when I "tune" my drill.
I feel a sort of comfort by knowing that there will be a video from Steve Ramsey every day. Just my two cents.
agree, I look for them everyday
I don't know what it is with these videos... But it's nice to feel like a part of the process lol
Thank you for being so open for suggestions from your community!
You are an awesome person Steve.
I'm glad my casters went to good use!
Steve, your videos just keep getting better. The format and pacing is just spot on. It's great to be working in the garage while watching. Thank you.
Just make sure, if you put the air compressor in the bottom, to give heat a place to escape in the back at the top of the compartment.
Maybe just pull it out when you want to use it? ..... EDIT: That's what she said?
Not a bad idea but does he use it often enough where it cycles multiple times in a use to build up enough heat to be concerned with.
cksidekick 1977 I would add a door and sound proofing material to block some of the noise of the compressor but leave small window in the back for heat disbursement.
I would add a door and sound proofing material to block some of the noise of the compressor but leave small window in the back for heat disbursement. Also, you can put it on a pullout drawer with a door.
You should mount a ratcheting hose reel on the side of the cabinet since your air compressor is in there. So rather than having the pull out the air compressor every time, you just pull the hose out. Harbor freight sells a cheap and very good hose reel too. And if you make the stand a little bit wider, you can put foam in the insert and will make the compressor much quieter.
Good idea. He has said the air compressor scares his cats haha
Agreed, power strip to power drill press, compressor, LED work light on drill press and the cord reel, would be real fine.
But you shouldn't use a compressor when it's in a closed compartment. It'll get too hot. You can only use foam at the bottom to reduce vibration sound (metal to wood)
@@hansdegroot8549 I've had mine surrounded by foam for 4 years and use it almost every day. I think you'll be okay
If you add two metal pipes under the bench drill table you could create wings that add to the sides to extend it by sliding smaller tubes into the other ones. This means you can have the surface at any hight and still get the suport
If you set the compressor in there put it on shelf with full extension slides ( like a slide out shelf). It would make it easy to put it in an out.
My thought, exactly.
Great feature to have
Was just getting on here to post the same thing. Even if you use the compressor while it's in that compartment, it'd be handy to be able to slide it out and adjust the pressure or turn it on/off.
Or leave that side open using 2x4s as supports so the side of the compressor is accessible.
Put an air compressor hose reel (retractable would be best!) on the outside of the stand, and drill a half-inch (or maybe 3/4") hole to pass the hose through...
Steve- extend the front old the base toward you. The force on the quill is applied down or down & toward the operator and you want the resultant vector to land within the footprint of the wheels when drilling steel. You can position wheels out by wheeling it away from you each time which gives a couple extra inches to front of footprint. Basically you want it tip-proof. Some junk steel plate screwed to the back of cabinet down low also helps tippyness.
Another Awesome Update ! Looking Forward To Seeing The Drill Press Table Build.
You have convinced me. Not to do what you are doing, but to do what I have always thought the optimal method.
When I get another small (benchtop) conventional press- I presently have a LARGE floor unit and several precision presses- the factory base will be scrapped. The table will be hard mounted flush with the base cabinet at a good useful height, and there will be a guide in the base for the column, and clearance will be made for the crank. The crank will jack the column and head up and down.
When I need 2HP to turn a 1-2/3 bit through steel, I have the large press. When I don't want an aching back doing 500 4mm holes in duplicate parts, I will have the setup.
Thank you for brightening my morning and everyone's 'whatever time of day' they watch. I use castors by fixing them to a separate piece of wood hinged on the outer edge. You lift one side, use your foot to swing the castors under, and then do the same the other side. When you've moved the item you reverse the process.
Retractable casters are SO easy and fun to make! Especially with whatever graphic design software you decide to use, you can work out angles, measurements, etc., for any size wheel. The idea of stepping on a pedal attached to the end of a hidden arm, and raising/lowering the entire cabinet a half-inch or so just always struck me as the best way, since sitting down on the skirt piece like that, it's more solid on the floor than the best locking wheels.
And the principles for the system aren't that hard. Picture 4 swivel casters (no locking), 2 mounted on a rear tilt board, 2 on a front tilt board, with the 2 tilt boards joined in the middle by 2 hinges. Make the rear tilt board a couple inches longer, and to this projecting end, glue/screw a lever that will project from that board forward, through the front of the cabinet. When the tilt boards are angled, that's the retracted position, casters not touching the floor as the cabinet sits on its skirt, and the lever pointed up at an angle. When the tilt boards are flat in the same plane, that's the extended position, cabinet resting/riding on the casters, and the lever handle in the down position. The back edge of the rear tilt board, and the front edge of the front board, are each touching front/back lips up inside the front and back of the skirt, made from 2x2 stock. When the lever is pressed down, flattening the tilt boards, the front and back edges of the tilt boards lift the cabinet by those lips. Once you have all the angles and measurements worked out, such as the depth of the the skirt needed for the size of the casters, how far in from the front/back edges the casters need to be mounted to the tilt boards in order to minimize the tilt-up in the middle needed (toward the hinge requires less tilt, toward the edges requires more tilt, and the casters being farther apart make the cabinet more stable, less 'tippy'), how far up you want to raise the cabinet (1/2" is usually sufficient), and how far you want the lever handle to travel up and down in the slot (depending on travel, you may need to cut this slot in the cabinet front, or have the arm on an extension and sticking out the side), then you're all set! Rig up a pivoting foot pedal on the end of the lever arm, and a stop on the front of the cabinet near the bottom of the slot, under which the edge of the foot pedal can catch when it's in the down position (casters down). Even without SketchUp, the system is a lot of fun to figure out and make for your size cabinet, casters, etc. It can even be made as a standalone assembly, then added to a flat-bottom cabinet that you may have built with a removable pedestal/toe-kick!
I always look forward to these videos. I really like how you take us through the whole thought process and design processes in addition to the builds themselves.
Steve: Regarding Casters. I *never* lock more than two caster, and in fact I usually only lock one caster. So I would suggest that you just put just two of those fancy (expensive) casters on the front of the cabinet, and just put cheap non-locking casters on the back. That way you still have two nice double-locking casters available for another cart.
Agreed! I have a few rolling flip carts in my shop. Each has 2 locking casters in front and 2 non-locking in back. Works great.
@@1averageamerican Rookie question: Why two in front and two in back? My inclination would be to have the locking casters placed diagonally from each other. Does having the casters next to each other reduce movement enough to make walking around a cart with diagonal casters an unnecessary annoyance?
@@smilemakeafunny I used to place locking casters diagonally on a mobile work stand, but ultimately, I found having the casters closest to the side you're standing at was best for stability, and it conveniently makes it easier to engage and unlock the casters from the same side that you're moving the work stand/bench.
Great idea to add compressor to the stand. If you put a hose reel on side you can enclose the compressor some to reduce the noise when it runs.
For tools that are top-heavy, you can always add weight in the space between the casters by bolting (TapCon-ing?) a concrete patio paver, the 18x18" kind. It doesn't intrude on the usable space since it's below the bottom of the cabinet, and if the cabinet is sized appropriately, the casters won't come in contact with the paver while swiveling. It's all clear in my head I swear!
Steve, I would cut a big hole on the left side, the compressor side, and then put in a metal grate kind of like the recent cabinet doors you made so the compressor can breathe and doesn't overheat. I have a little compressor in my office I use for my airbrush, and that thing gets really hot under my desk and when it overheats I have to let it cool down. I worry you will put strain on yours boxing it in.
Love the idea of putting your air compressor in there. A good idea would to cut a hole in the bottom for the release/drain for moisture build up. And something I have see other people do is make a copper pipe that connects to the air compressor and then leads off to new hose connections at a more convenient spot. Could go up and out the left side there if you do this. Of course, not something you would have to do now, could be a future add-on. With that, you may want the back of the air compressor accessible, maybe make a removable panel or a door on the back?
Great idea on putting your compressor into the base for a base weight. I would suggest on putting it on a horizontal drawer/pullout to allow easier access to the motor. You can even add a couple or one hinged legs that fall down when you pull the compressor out and fold up when the compressor is pushed in. Just an idea.
Something to consider. I keep my compressor upstairs in the attic. I have a pull down wheel with 25’ of hose hanging from the ceiling. It’s super convenient, saves space (with it being up top) and is also quite a bit quieter.
Wouldn't it be difficult to drain the tank, then?
Hi Steve,
I have the same issue about height for power tool cabinets/stands. Mine need to be moved from time to time, so I need casters. Initially, I built my drill press stand using 4-inch casters - but that resulted in table height too high.
Then, I read about a system that the "R" place sells ... which is a metal plate that permanently attaches to the base of the woodwork and accepts a special caster that can be temporarily slipped into the metal plate and used when the tool needs to be moved. The metal plates are much less expensive than a set of casters. I only needed one set of four plates for each gadget - and one set of casters overall. The plates allow me to design the stand to rest directly on the shop floor. Check out that system. I think it might be a good thing for your movable tool stands/cabinets. I like it, so far.
I made a 2 layer hollow table with dust collection as I use mine for drum sanding. Hose hooks on underneath. Works awesome.
This may be one of your best videos. A drill press stand is something I can’t wait to see built
I have my bench grinder mounted behind the the drill press . It makes it convenient when I want to touch up a drill.
Love hearing you talk through your thoughts!!!
Just got a drill press for my shop can’t wait to see your finished product. Right not it is sharing a space with my miter saw but I have to move it when I want to use the miter saw’s right side.
This!
You could put the air compressor in the back width-wise, like the "secret compartment" on the printer stand. Then you can have some drawers or cubbies on the back as well to separate your compressor attachments into. This leaves the front for all drawers for your drill press. The weight distribution might not be ideal, idk, but you can always inset the compressor a bit and have shallower drawers on bottom on the opposite side. This orientation would also make it easier to remove the compressor when needed. Cheers, mate!
Your videos are so inspirational, and you're a kind guy.
If anything error on the side of too low. If it’s a little too low you can always shim it up. It’s a lot harder to make it lower once the cabinet is done.
If you keep the drill press on that wall where the cabinet is you could make some custom storage on the wall to keep all your bits. They'd be in the open and easy to access.
For the air compressor, mount a shelf on slides. The compressor can then be slid out when needed without having to reach in and lift the compressor when needed.
the top drawer of your cabinet, make a bunch of compartments and you can store bulk drill bits and leave one for dull drill bits "someday I'll sharpen them" I buy jobber lots of drill bits because that someday hasn't happened yet but I do dull bits.
Love the drawer love!! :-) I look forward to this every evening Steve! I am a small business owner, and there are SOOO many decisions having to be made/ modified every day besides the normal business operation ones, and this is something that really helps me to relax. Thank you!!!! And it reminds me to get into my little shop and do something/ make something. :-) I've made 3 things, and I think I need to rearrange the shop, and like you , paint all my walls white. I have a basement shop- half of it I painted white, which I love and the other half still has the gray cinder block. So cheap paint sprayed on that and the ceiling and organization is my next shop work! :-) Thank you again for the inspiration! Really looking forward to the skechup tutorial, as I have not had the time to figure that out. :-)
I just built a stand for my new 10” drill press and found that I had made it too tall (definitely top heavy!) so I cut 3” off the stand and it’s much better now! Still a bit top heavy but what I did was put my grinder on the bottom and now it’s well balanced. I just put the grinder on my workbench if I need it (which is not often). Your compressor serves the purpose for sure. I only have one drawer under the drill press for “stuff”!😉 The height of my stand, including wheels is 34”. Enjoying your new format 👍
You might consider a retractable air hose assembly. Grizzley makes a very nice one, if you can incorporate it, no more fumbling with a loose hose.
Don't forget to accommodate the top drawer for the bolts if you bolt down the drill press.
Oh yeah!, I found your video within the hour of you posting it. I just want to say thank you for posting videos every day I find them encouraging and I enjoy watching your Channel it’s like talking to a good friend. I’m a teacher and I’ve been recording video lessons since were all at home and I enjoy watching my favorite UA-cam videos with the perspective of setting up the camera and editing them afterwards
Hi Steve,
I'm utilising the space under my drill press also with storage for my compressor as you are.I am adding a drawer slides on a shelf for easier access to remove compressor in and out without breaking my back every time I need to remove it.Just a suggestion . Great content as usual thanks and stay safe.
I like the idea of the compressor to the side on the bottom. You could also cut a hole in that side so the hose can connect to the valve & put a hose rack (like garden hose) on the side. It would be great storage for it as well as usability.
I was just thinking you could use your air compressor. Then you showed it.
Also you can get 25’ of hose from Walmart for $10. So you can leave the air compressor in the stand and have enough hose to get all over. And it would be nice to have space to store air tools and accessories near the compressor. So it’s a one stop shop. And if you make the drill press easily removable you could have a nice air compressor caddy that you can take places that has everything.
Steve, one thing you may consider in that drill press stand is putting your air compressor on little locking casters that can be locked into that area when not in use and then you can pull it out and roll around your shop when you need to use it in other areas of your shop.
Steve, If you don’t install drawer slides, the making of drawers aren’t as much of a hassle. You won’t be using the drawers under the drill press that often so just make them so that they slide on the drawer wood frame. I did for six drawers that I put under my work bench top and have had no problem. I put wax on the bottom of the drawer sides maybe once a year and they work great! Might be good for the beginner woodworker wanting to make simple old style drawers.
I was so hoping for a motorized lift that would allow the drill press to raise and lower in a cabinet with a nifty remote (or phone/watch app) to whatever height you wanted, and could allow storage under the wall cabinets when rolled there.
Just a thought,if you move your cabinet to make room for the drill press you wil have to mount it about a foot higher to allow access to the electrical outlets that are there.
Great to see you every day Steve!
Neil Pountney bright spot of my quarantine days.
What I use for ballast in my tablesaw stand are two boxes of flat steel off cuts I got on the cheap for all sorts of tinkering. Scrap box would also be good.
As far as material for weight, when I worked for home Depot I had a customer come to buy something for ballast in their sail boat and what the ended up using was lead flashing, it's used for roofing. A roll is easy to flatten into the shape of a brick just by hand and each roll was over 50lbs so lots of weight in very little space. I forget how much it cost though it wasn't in item I delt with too often.
This is perfect! I have a drill press that currently has no home, I'll be following this project closely.
Love the videos every day. It’s great to see your thought processes before deciding on a design.
Can't wait to see you build the drill press. Another video idea for the future would be on the different types of router bits and what they are used for. Another thing, a little off topic, what kind and where do you get your iron on edge banding? Keep up the great videos!
I think that using the compressor for stability is a great idea. Two thoughts about that, first to make sure that it can get enough cooling and second perhaps mount a connector for an air hose on the cabinet.
Hey steve make the cabinet as short as you want... if its too low take casters off and add 3/4 ply. Blocks until you reach the right height then add casters back on
And if you do decide to add a hose reel on the left side. I’d add a door to hide the air compressor plus it’ll cut the noise down a bit and add vent holes on the back side of the cabinet
I have found some instability issues with shallow cabinets and those large wheels. Look at the mounting point and the contact point with the floor you will find it can create a narrow wheelbase depending on where your wheels are pointing.
idk how feasible it is, but as someone who just started going through your paid sketchup tutorial, something I’d like to see is how you iterate on designs in sketchup. It sounds like you use it to visualize & tweak, and it’s my hypothesis that seeing that process would be useful. Maybe it’s in the paid content and I just haven’t gotten to it yet, but I’m making the explicit request as you work on the tutorial for the drill press stand in case you have the time & inclination to include some of that. Thanks for the daily videos!
If you're thinking of using the compressor in situ, you might want to put some vibration isolation in (foam/rubber) rather than adding the reverb feature to the compressor.
BTW - love this channel and the current format is a great start to another day locked in the home "office". It's great seeing the process as it unfolds, and even better when it goes wrong because that's just like when I do it - albeit more often for me ;)
Sweet! When doing the SketchUp video, please consider demonstrating how you got the images of a drill press and air compressor into the design you create. Thanks Steve!
I think they're the imported models that you can get while using SketchUp. Many premade models are available but the actual feature name escapes me at the moment because I'm not that advanced either 🤫
It might be a good idea, to enclose the compressor completely and to insulate that space. That will dramatically reduce the noise level. To connect your tools to the compressor you could attach a connector to the side or where ever is comfortable to you...
Working hard and keeping busy during this quarantine! Great info to consider in my projects!
We have, again, something to look forward to for the next few days. I love these projects.
For dust collection, what I did is mount some 2.5" Loc-line to the wall behind the drill press, connected to my ductwork with a blast gate. When I want dust collection, I can bend the Loc-line out over the drill press table. When I don't, I just bend it back out of the way. It's fairly convenient to use, and it stays out of the way when I don't want it.
But after setting that up, I find that I almost never use it. I have a floor-standing drill press (the Nova Voyager, which is great!) so I just keep a bucket under the drill press and sweep the chips into it every now and then. Maybe that will change after I build the cabinet I'm planning to sit under the drill press table to store my drill bits.
You could move the mobile workbench under your wall desk. That way you can keep your router in the same place.
At 2:30 you talked about lifting casters. A couple weeks ago I finished my first project inspired by your video series, which was a modification of your table saw cart design with the lifting caster feature, I think it turned out great. I'd be happy to share a parts list and short video.
Great idea about the compressor. I'm going to incorporate that in my stand as well. Thanks so much!
I would be very careful about the center or gravity of the drill press.
I made a very similar rolling cart to your current one, and, of course, had the drill press base all nicely centered on the cabinet top, only to find that the actual CG was so far back that the cart was constantly threatening to tip over on to it's back when I moved it.
Luckily, I had enough real estate on the cabinet top that I could slide the base far enough forward before permanently mounting it to give it better stability.
Yep Steve I discounted back injuries till it permanently disabled me 10years ago, if I could trade I think I would have rather lost a leg. Congrats with the channel, some of your projects I can do at home just takes way longer with pacing myself these days. Kitchen rolling island for wife took 3 months but she enjoys it.
ViralMag Ravager I’ve had both of my legs amputated. Be careful what you wish for. In the end we are both permanently disabled.
You could add a drop down (folding) stool on one of the sides of the cabinet for when you need to change the belts on the top, then you can just focus on the height for when you are working with the press.
To fit your router table, it looks like you could chop the bottom of the shelving unit off and make it wall mounted so you can slide the router underneath, or the BMW, either way. 👍 Love the channel
Thanks Steve! waiting for the sketchup tutorial!
Modify the base of a barbers chair and bolt it to the bottom of your drill press table. You can manage the height with a foot lever.
Steve, regarding storage of the sleds you could incorporate those into your table saw somehow. I think Bob Clagett did something like that on his channel "I Like to Make Stuff". Maybe you'd use the sleds more if they were right where you needed them. Anyway LOVE the daily videos. Hope you're doing well!
If you're going to put your air compressor in the drill cabinet make sure to have a hole where the tank drain is. It would suck for condesation to build up and have you release it just to shoot water all over the cabinet.
Great to give AW kudos. I've learned a lot from both of you. (I get less distracted watching you.)
If you store your air compressor there make sure you can access the bleed valve for condensation.
steve if i was going to put my air compressor in that cabinet i would use deawer slides and mount them to the bottom of the cabinet with a piece of plywood on the top so you can just pull it out and slide it in,,alot easier than wrestling with the air compressor to slide it in that hole in the cabinet
Maybe put that compressor on with some drawer slides so you can more easily take it in and out/get to the back side of it to release pressure when you need to.
Steve, Everybody is unique and different. I would set up a surface on a couple saw horses. Adjust height with layers of scrap plywood. Play with differing heights to find YOUR comfort level. THEN design a permanent base.
Late suggestion: I have a 6"x6" insert in my drill press table with miters going down to hold the insert in place. This way when the insert gets chewed up, I simply slide out and replace without messing with the table & fence. I tried to draw it out in Sketchup and it looks awful -- SO looking forward to your Sketchup lessons. Thanks for a great channel.
I would suggest that bolt it to the top of the cabinet not as easy to get on off but we went though a earthquake last year and ended up on the floor
On the casters... Mount them cantilevered outside the left/right sides of the cabinet. Why? You'll have easy access to all 4 casters to lock them down (especially the full locking casters). Otherwise, you can really only lock the front pair of casters because their locking levers will be fully accessible as you push the cabinet away from you. The two rear caster's locking levers would be under the cabinet and it's difficult to get your toes in there to lock them down.
You could potentially set up a slide-out folding step stool in the bottom of the cabinet.
Steve, what about making a slide out shelf for the compressor that comes out just far enough to hook up the air line? Then you don't even need to take it out of the stand.
Have you considered making the top in the shape of a 'baseball home plate'? That would allow you to: push it straight into the corner and work on pieces of wood less than 2 feet wide and access the drawers & air compressor without having to pull it out.
It looks like you have several outlets in the way to move your cabinet over to the other side of the window. You'll have to raise it's height as well.
Hey Steve , thanks for the daily video's , you could put the compressor [which is very compacted as if someone has compressed it ] on a sliding tray ,
G
It's always nice to get a shout-out! It doesn't happen very often, but it's always nice. (Unless the shout-out is being made to point out some stupid error on my part...)
If you want to use the air compressor while it's in the stand then give it a little more clearance, those things work hard
If you are not looking forward to building all those drawers, you can simply replace them with a cabinet with sliding shelves. You just need 1 door instead of 4 - 5 drawer fronts while the shelves only realy need 2 sides for the slides, although a back could be handy to prevent pushing stuff over the back end.
For adding weight try finding a metalwork company that presses sheet steel. They normally recycle their waste but might supply a bucket that would be very dense and weighty. Just mix it with epoxy resin to have an encapsulated ballast weight that you can fix into any low compartment for stability
you may consider a lift table to dial in the height after using it for a week or two.
I wouldn't run the compressor in the drill press cabinet. Just store it there. But since it's heavy and stored in the cabinet with very little space around it to pick it up and pull it out, strongly suggest you build a pull out shelf with drawer slides. Will be easier for taking it out and putting it back in.
Put a power strip into the cabinet so you don't have seperate plugs for the drill press and compressor coming out of it.
You can get a laser light to mount on the drill press to align for drilling holes I have one to mount on to my press
I have recently purchasd a drill press. It's interesting seeing you having the same dilemma over working height of the drill that I am having. Width and depth no problem, but height oh heck. Not the lightest of items to left around for try outs. Looking forward to the build.
Most beautiful router table I’ve seen so far.
I measured my drill press cabinet and I have 43 inch to the top of the cabinet.... What I love about it is my eyes are so close to the piece when I "tune" my drill.
Putting your lighting equipement on rail on the ceilling could be fun