Oh boy. I had my super duty inner seal changed three times from the same shop and every time it starts leaking within a few months. I bet the monkeys didn’t have the specialty tool. Ended up doing the seal replacements myself with the specialty tool and it’s been a year no leaks. Great video. To the point and useful
If you watch this video closely when he's before he pulled the axle shelf out you'll see that upper Kingpin moves quite a bit well that is why your seals repeatedly going out you have to have good kingpins otherwise that seal will just repeatedly fail the seal will last a lifetime of that vehicle if nothing plays on it negatively
When he pulled the hub bearing assembly you could see how much play the upper ball joint had. Can you imagine how bad that truck rode, and probably ate tires??
If you're going that far with your differential you just spend extra money and get all new kingpins and new bearings and everything I recommend Tim can bearings I've never had any failures after I've installed them
Does the seal seat the same depth on a 50 vs a 60 DANA? i see one company makes one installer just for 50 and says its seats different, but I see several companies that make 50/60 seal installers.
We have a ton of 350’s and a couple of 450’s and all of them have the same issue where the 4x4 doesn’t work unless the hubs are manually locked.. does anyone know why that is and how to fix it? Thanks
As with any rear carrier disassembly it’s always good to inspect the components you are removing. Generally, with good bearings and gears, the assembly can go back in place with just the bearing caps being torqued to specification. If any bearings are changed then backlash and preload need to be checked. So you will need a torque wrench at a minimum to reinstall. Thanks for watching!
Hello! Im about to reseal my dana 60 axel, but my 2001 dodge ram has the axel that disconnect, my question is, is it the same procedure to take the left hand seal for my truck? I can't seem to find a video that does the seals on my truck with the axel that i have, thanks!
Yes, if you have an axle shaft that pulls out the replacement procedure will be different. If you provide a bit more detail we can help with your repair. Are you working on a 3500 or larger series truck? What is the SKF seal part number? Are you working on the front or rear?
I have a 2000 ford f 250 super duty 7.3 diesel 4x4 with a dana 60 axle does the driver side its the short axle does it have a bearing on the end of the axle when I pulled it out it didn't have a bearing on it or it in the housing has any one had this problem
I LOVE how they just skip how they got the center section out/loose!!! You also completely missed how to re-seat the center section!!!! THUMBS DOWN! for not showing what is possibly the hardest part.
lol its never like the video!!! this sounds crazy but it works awesome!!! get a bunch of shop rags and start feeding them into the gears while someone spins the pinion for you. it walks it self right out. putting it back in can be tricky. I use a block of wood and mallet. (i know this is old post but might help someone else out)
I know this is old but once you remove the bearing caps you can use a wrench put it on the ring gear bolts and turn then as if you were tightening it should come out fairly easly just make sure to catch the assembly
@@shtoleva07 any oil on the outside of those tubes near the knuckle I will tell you that it slowly leaking and of his solid they can you can get caught carrying your differential up so you will leaks are not acceptable and anyway on a differential
@Crazed Gold Minner I'm rebuilding a dana 60 from a super duty and there is no oil near knuckle but I think I'm going to replace those seals anyway, I already have it stripped down to nothing so might as well
@@shtoleva07 wrenching for 60-plus years I recommend that you spend a couple dollars for the Timken bearings you'll have less failure problems if any failure at all if you do the job right
Oh boy. I had my super duty inner seal changed three times from the same shop and every time it starts leaking within a few months. I bet the monkeys didn’t have the specialty tool. Ended up doing the seal replacements myself with the specialty tool and it’s been a year no leaks. Great video. To the point and useful
If you watch this video closely when he's before he pulled the axle shelf out you'll see that upper Kingpin moves quite a bit well that is why your seals repeatedly going out you have to have good kingpins otherwise that seal will just repeatedly fail the seal will last a lifetime of that vehicle if nothing plays on it negatively
@@crazedgoldminner7384 thanks for the tip. I was going to tackle the job myself next month I’ll
Make sure I check for any play before I reinstall.
Thei are ball joints on those years not kingpin
When he pulled the hub bearing assembly you could see how much play the upper ball joint had. Can you imagine how bad that truck rode, and probably ate tires??
Great video
Very informative, thank you for uploading.
If you're going that far with your differential you just spend extra money and get all new kingpins and new bearings and everything I recommend Tim can bearings I've never had any failures after I've installed them
Great video. Thank you providing such clear details. This has helped me a great deal.
Glad to hear you found it helpful!
Good Stuff, Great Tips👍🏿😀 2016 F250 XLT 6.2L Gas Flex Fuel 4W 4D (Stock)
that seal knockout tool looks optimal but optional? definitely will get the setter
Does the seal seat the same depth on a 50 vs a 60 DANA? i see one company makes one installer just for 50 and says its seats different, but I see several companies that make 50/60 seal installers.
looks like the dana 50 kit is a torque king 4808 for seals and setter
Thank for the video brother God bles you
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad you like it!
Why didn't you show the bearing chunk removal! That's what I wanted to see!
If your carrier falls out they are completely wore out if your carrier requires spreading tool to get it to come out then you can reuse them
Can I put in 2 seals a inch or so apart from one another
Labor how many hours should that pay, adding labor to replace u joints on the shafts.
does the gear just go straight in?
Cant you just unbolt 4 bolts on hub assembly and slide it out as a whole unit ? And have to remove brake caliper and rotor.
We have a ton of 350’s and a couple of 450’s and all of them have the same issue where the 4x4 doesn’t work unless the hubs are manually locked.. does anyone know why that is and how to fix it? Thanks
Check the vacuum lines
When reinstalling the carrier other then everything going back in the same way is there any adjusting or special tools? Thank you
As with any rear carrier disassembly it’s always good to inspect the components
you are removing. Generally, with good bearings and gears, the assembly can go back in place with just the bearing caps being torqued to specification. If any bearings are changed then backlash and preload need to be checked. So you will need a torque wrench at a minimum to reinstall. Thanks for watching!
Hello!
Im about to reseal my dana 60 axel, but my 2001 dodge ram has the axel that disconnect, my question is, is it the same procedure to take the left hand seal for my truck? I can't seem to find a video that does the seals on my truck with the axel that i have, thanks!
Yes, if you have an axle shaft that pulls out the replacement procedure will be different.
If you provide a bit more detail we can help with your repair.
Are you working on a 3500 or larger series truck? What is the SKF seal part number?
Are you working on the front or rear?
I have a 2000 ford f 250 super duty 7.3 diesel 4x4 with a dana 60 axle does the driver side its the short axle does it have a bearing on the end of the axle when I pulled it out it didn't have a bearing on it or it in the housing has any one had this problem
Both inner axles have a dust seal, but no bearing.
How do you know If these need replaced?
If the seal is bad , gear oil will be leaking/dripping on the lower knuckle
I LOVE how they just skip how they got the center section out/loose!!! You also completely missed how to re-seat the center section!!!!
THUMBS DOWN! for not showing what is possibly the hardest part.
My carrier didnt come out whats the trick???
May need a case spreader to move the case apart some.
lol its never like the video!!! this sounds crazy but it works awesome!!! get a bunch of shop rags and start feeding them into the gears while someone spins the pinion for you. it walks it self right out. putting it back in can be tricky. I use a block of wood and mallet. (i know this is old post but might help someone else out)
I know this is old but once you remove the bearing caps you can use a wrench put it on the ring gear bolts and turn then as if you were tightening it should come out fairly easly just make sure to catch the assembly
I've been a Ford man my whole life I've have almost 50 years experience with this
How do you know when these need replaced?
@@shtoleva07 any oil on the outside of those tubes near the knuckle I will tell you that it slowly leaking and of his solid they can you can get caught carrying your differential up so you will leaks are not acceptable and anyway on a differential
@Crazed Gold Minner I'm rebuilding a dana 60 from a super duty and there is no oil near knuckle but I think I'm going to replace those seals anyway, I already have it stripped down to nothing so might as well
@@shtoleva07 wrenching for 60-plus years I recommend that you spend a couple dollars for the Timken bearings you'll have less failure problems if any failure at all if you do the job right
@@crazedgoldminner7384 ok, the hub assembly is a complete unit on this. Have you had experience with that? I have never seen this setup before.