Thanks! I think this was the third video I ever made so its hard for me to watch now since my narration and video making skills have come a long way. So its good to see that people still enjoy it!
Love it brother. It truly is an art form that very few people know how to do...I do mobile detailing, but also offer services such as this. Not too many are wanting to go this "in depth" but occasionally...and those are the jobs I find most rewarding. Nice work!
Great stuff. I’ve watched so many cut end polish videos and my ride still turned out amateur. This is by far the best video on the subject I’ve ever seen. Thanks so much for post this and giving bonus tips in the process
Looks great! I have a red 92 ford ranger that doesn't look terrible, but it needs some compound and polishing. It seems like red paint is so much more likely to oxidize than most other colors. I'll wait til it cools off next month to give it a go since I'll be doing it all by hand 🥵
wow!!! my car looked exactly like this before i repainted it. if i would have known that i could have saved it with these steps i would not have repainted. excellent job!!
This is totally impressive, thanks for mentioning this video elsewhere. I’m wondering now what the differences are and how you treat two-stage 1989 nautic blue paint to bring it back vs this. I have some rust I’ll grind out and prime, as well as clear coat damage on the hood, but most of the car just needs a polish. After it’s all ready I’m going to try ceramic coating as mentioned. Also, do the paint work now and drive it in Canadian winter, or wait until next spring? Thanks again
Thanks, it pretty much the same process except I wouldn't sand a thin factory clear coat. They're not sprayed thick enough to be intentionally sanded. That said, you can use the buffing pad instead of doing it by hand. The clear coats aren't oil based so they aren't as soft and won't burn as easily as the single stage but you may still want to go slow and maybe even use wool which runs cooler than foam. Also when priming any rust affected areas be sure to use an acid etch primer, since alkyd or oil based primers will react with the galvanized steel and flake off. I hope that helps!
Yes, you can use a sandwich bag placed over your hand and rub over to paint to see if you feel any dirt trapped in it. If it feels rough you can use a clay bar to remove any dirt that is in the paint. I hope that helps!
My paint is not that bad, and its not the factory paint (although factory color). But I'm gonna try these steps again. I have the Meguiars paint restoration kit, but I didn't had the rubbing compound, only Meguiars stuff. Ill definitely give it a try once the snow is gone! Thanks a lot.
Would just a compound and then cleaner wax/sealant work to remove "recurring" water spots, and some faded guards red paint? Only certain areas of my car are dull, and in some areas despite many regular waxing attempts as soon as they get wet and dry, hard water marks appear immediately and have so for the past 15 years on the car. Your videos are amazing by the way!
Thanks! Yep, If you are getting reoccurring water spots then it sounds like you need a good compounding to smooth out the paint and keep them from forming. The compounding should also get rid of all those faded areas. Following up with a cleaner wax should leave you with a nice finish that shouldn't get anymore water spots. That said, be aware that without the other two steps that the paint may still have light swirl marks and won't be as shiny, but should look much better than it does now. I hope that helps!
-Holy S**T, I would not have believed it! This is truly amazing!! Looking at the original paint I pretty much would have written it off! I am SO glad I found your videos, thank you so much! I do have a question though, what are your thoughts on car covers? I feel like a lot of the fine scratches or marks in my paint may be from a car cover that was used on the car by the PO. Don't get me wrong the paint looks pretty good a lot better than this did to begin with but it does have issues compared to the finished results of your car. It is a repaint too I might add.
Yeah I can't wait to finally get around to finishing the rest of the car, I think it will look great! I have had a few car covers and while I've never noticed any fine scratches on my car, I have seen others have this issue. It looked to me as if dust and dirt had gotten trapped in the cover causing fine scratches. The Porsche cover that I have is for outdoor use so it is waterproof and dirt doesn't seem to get into it; so it might have something to do with the quality of the cover?
Wow such an informative and well narrated video! I have a 74 TR6 that I've been too scared to touch the single stage paint as I'm more of a mechanic than a body guy but this video gives me some confidence! Question though: Could I follow your hand method but do both 1500 AND 3000 sand paper followed by the compound and cleaner wax?
Thanks! That should work fine, but I wouldn't sand if you don't need to. If you are just removing oxidization and water spots I would just use the compound. Also beware that paint is thinner on sharp edges so you have to use care in those areas. That said, you only want to gently sand the paint in all areas. 3M also makes a heavy duty compound that cuts deeper so that might save you from having to sand, but it will need to be followed up with the step 1 compound in the video or it will look heavily swirled. In most cases the step 1 compound I used will be all you need. Using a cleaner wax afterwards instead of the other 2 steps will leave some light swirl marks behind, but will still look great compared to what you had before! I hope that helps!
I understand. There's just a few very small spots that my dad (previous owner) attempted to cover up some chips with color "matched" paint that doesn't match at all.
Great video! I work in film & video production...and I can tell you we're rarely as organized and coherent as you were!
Thanks! I think this was the third video I ever made so its hard for me to watch now since my narration and video making skills have come a long way. So its good to see that people still enjoy it!
Love it brother. It truly is an art form that very few people know how to do...I do mobile detailing, but also offer services such as this. Not too many are wanting to go this "in depth" but occasionally...and those are the jobs I find most rewarding. Nice work!
Great stuff. I’ve watched so many cut end polish videos and my ride still turned out amateur. This is by far the best video on the subject I’ve ever seen. Thanks so much for post this and giving bonus tips in the process
Thanks! Glad to hear that it turned out well!
Looks great! I have a red 92 ford ranger that doesn't look terrible, but it needs some compound and polishing. It seems like red paint is so much more likely to oxidize than most other colors. I'll wait til it cools off next month to give it a go since I'll be doing it all by hand 🥵
Thank you. Great knowledge and presentation. Pronounced “ox-i-day-shun”.
Very nice work! Love your videos man. You do such a good job explaining everything. Thank you.
Excellent and informative video. I'll be using this as reference in the spring when I get the 924 back on he road.
wow!!! my car looked exactly like this before i repainted it. if i would have known that i could have saved it with these steps i would not have repainted. excellent job!!
Thanks! I had a lot of fun making this video. Hopefully it will help someone save their factory paint!
@@edredas Mate! My new (to me) 928 has this going on all over it, this is a great help as was considering re-painting the hood!
You did an amazing job. But for future videos I would recommend you include a few farther away shots as all the close ups can mess with the eyes.
Very nice video. Excellent tips. Thank you. Take care.
Great video! This is going to help a lot, all of your videos are great.// do those 3 bottles cover the whole car (944)
Thanks! Yes, there’s enough in those bottles to do a lot of cars.
This is totally impressive, thanks for mentioning this video elsewhere. I’m wondering now what the differences are and how you treat two-stage 1989 nautic blue paint to bring it back vs this. I have some rust I’ll grind out and prime, as well as clear coat damage on the hood, but most of the car just needs a polish. After it’s all ready I’m going to try ceramic coating as mentioned. Also, do the paint work now and drive it in Canadian winter, or wait until next spring? Thanks again
Thanks, it pretty much the same process except I wouldn't sand a thin factory clear coat. They're not sprayed thick enough to be intentionally sanded. That said, you can use the buffing pad instead of doing it by hand. The clear coats aren't oil based so they aren't as soft and won't burn as easily as the single stage but you may still want to go slow and maybe even use wool which runs cooler than foam. Also when priming any rust affected areas be sure to use an acid etch primer, since alkyd or oil based primers will react with the galvanized steel and flake off. I hope that helps!
edredas It does! Thanks again. I’m wishing there were a way to re-galvanize steel panels without disassembling the car. :)
Do you ever use a clay bar on single stage?
Yes, you can use a sandwich bag placed over your hand and rub over to paint to see if you feel any dirt trapped in it. If it feels rough you can use a clay bar to remove any dirt that is in the paint. I hope that helps!
My paint is not that bad, and its not the factory paint (although factory color). But I'm gonna try these steps again. I have the Meguiars paint restoration kit, but I didn't had the rubbing compound, only Meguiars stuff. Ill definitely give it a try once the snow is gone! Thanks a lot.
Awesome! Good luck!
Would just a compound and then cleaner wax/sealant work to remove "recurring" water spots, and some faded guards red paint? Only certain areas of my car are dull, and in some areas despite many regular waxing attempts as soon as they get wet and dry, hard water marks appear immediately and have so for the past 15 years on the car. Your videos are amazing by the way!
Thanks! Yep, If you are getting reoccurring water spots then it sounds like you need a good compounding to smooth out the paint and keep them from forming. The compounding should also get rid of all those faded areas. Following up with a cleaner wax should leave you with a nice finish that shouldn't get anymore water spots. That said, be aware that without the other two steps that the paint may still have light swirl marks and won't be as shiny, but should look much better than it does now. I hope that helps!
-Holy S**T, I would not have believed it! This is truly amazing!! Looking at the original paint I pretty much would have written it off! I am SO glad I found your videos, thank you so much! I do have a question though, what are your thoughts on car covers? I feel like a lot of the fine scratches or marks in my paint may be from a car cover that was used on the car by the PO. Don't get me wrong the paint looks pretty good a lot better than this did to begin with but it does have issues compared to the finished results of your car. It is a repaint too I might add.
Yeah I can't wait to finally get around to finishing the rest of the car, I think it will look great! I have had a few car covers and while I've never noticed any fine scratches on my car, I have seen others have this issue. It looked to me as if dust and dirt had gotten trapped in the cover causing fine scratches. The Porsche cover that I have is for outdoor use so it is waterproof and dirt doesn't seem to get into it; so it might have something to do with the quality of the cover?
edredas Okay, yeah that makes sense. I will have to look for an outdoor cover for mine since for now it is outside. Thanks again!
Wow such an informative and well narrated video! I have a 74 TR6 that I've been too scared to touch the single stage paint as I'm more of a mechanic than a body guy but this video gives me some confidence!
Question though: Could I follow your hand method but do both 1500 AND 3000 sand paper followed by the compound and cleaner wax?
Thanks! That should work fine, but I wouldn't sand if you don't need to. If you are just removing oxidization and water spots I would just use the compound. Also beware that paint is thinner on sharp edges so you have to use care in those areas. That said, you only want to gently sand the paint in all areas. 3M also makes a heavy duty compound that cuts deeper so that might save you from having to sand, but it will need to be followed up with the step 1 compound in the video or it will look heavily swirled. In most cases the step 1 compound I used will be all you need. Using a cleaner wax afterwards instead of the other 2 steps will leave some light swirl marks behind, but will still look great compared to what you had before! I hope that helps!
I understand. There's just a few very small spots that my dad (previous owner) attempted to cover up some chips with color "matched" paint that doesn't match at all.
I don’t know why I’m watching this video since I’m repainting my car and it was bare metal in a lot of places