Really like your channel and just to state, aside from compliance issues, the typical technical challenge we face in the UK with our lighting circuits is that they are wired as in the first option you showed so you just have the switching wires without the neutral to power the Sonoff plus we have much smaller back boxes. This would also be the issue with their Touch switches despite having a UK version this is to fit our standard back boxes but it still needs a neutral. It's not a complete write off though as most lights have all the connections at the ceiling rose so you could rewire it there, using the switch connections for GPIO 14 and ground. Then poking the sonoff basic up in the ceiling void although you'd have to make a much bigger hole than you'd normally have. I'd like to see Sonoff make a version of the basic within a ceiling rose with the necessary compliance as I'd expect they'd sell quite a few in the UK. Also, whilst I'm at it, they should produce a nicer, safer case for the basic for that it can be used as a inline lamp switch. This shouldn't cost them very much to do and I'm sure they'd sell loads.
I concur. Have you seen the Shelly1? amzn.to/2MBchfu That's probably your best solution. It's small, it can go in your ceiling junction box, it has contacts to connect a switch, so you can connect the wires that already run from your lights to your switch. It also takes re-flashing easily. ua-cam.com/video/J20hxfUTP9I/v-deo.html
Rob, you can use another add on circuit that changes the switch commands to an equivalent button press - rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273576948115 With this, you mount the sonoff in the ceiling or attic and use the existing switches.
In the Netherlands we use the NEN1010 norm for electricity. Blue(0), Braun (fase), black(switching) and yellow/green(ground) The spaces for junctions are mostly in the ceiling. Behind the switches we normally do not have enough space for a piece of electronics.
Vesync switches are about $7.00/each these days which isn't much more than the Sonoff minus the extensibility; still I might consider building one of these if only to gain experience using them in Home Assistant or Alexa or Google. Thanks for the video and concept!
You can leave the neutrals like they were originally and save one step, you just need to grab a little piece of wire of small gauge and attach it to the main neutral to bring neutral to the sonoff in order to run the little transformer, there is no need to pass the load neutral through the sonoff.
Not sure I can visualize exactly what you mean. So the answer is; probably yes. What matters most is that the 2 wires going to your lights now go to the Output side of the Sonoff, and that you have a Hot/Line and a Neutral going to the Input side. The wire you use for the neutral to the Sonoff needs to be the same guage as the Hot/Line. Don't use smaller guage wire there. Once the circuit is completed (the lights are on) that Neutral will be carrying the full current of the circuit. So if it's too small it'll heat up and could melt the insulation and cause a short. Then BANG!
DrZzs i just mean that the neutral wire just pass through the imput and output on the sonoff device you dont need to detach the neutral that goes to the light, but you need neutral for complete the circuit on the sonoff tranformer and can be just a piece of thin wire, the screws labeled hot or L on the imput and output are the only ones that need to remain like you did. Its not like you are doing it wrong, its perfectly fine but you could doit like electricians do. Neutral almost always goes directly to the load,( in rare cases you switch it too)same like wall sensors, they only have one white wire and 2 black wires, the white goes to the neutral without detaching the exixting neutrals, just taping on it, an serves just to power the sensor itself and the black wires are the real switch.
DrZzs The full charge of the light will go to the neutral like always did since like i said you dont need to separate the light neutral, even thay way its more secure since you dont have to use the output or imput neutral terminals on the sonoff to feed the light, however you need at least a thin wire on the neutral screw of the sonoff to the mains neutral in order to turn on the device, which just consume some milliamps to turn on the electronics and the relay. Check the path on the neutrals screws on the sonoff and note they are just going in and out, but there is a little path to feed the electronics.
DrZzs the thing is that the sonoff was designed to be used with extensions cords that dont even have ground, that way you need to pass the neutral for the load like it was designed on those terminals, but used like a wall switch you dont need to pass the neutral of the load through the sonoff, you only need it to feed the electronics so at the end you shoukd have only 3 wires on the sonoff, hot imput,hot output the same gauge of the wall wires, and a neutral for sonoff itself.
Hrm, If you don't use a momentary momentary push button for your switch, you'll have the same problem you'd have with smart bulbs. If the switch is off, your smart switch is offline. That's a great cost saving idea though.
Thanks for the video! I did not understand a few things and I am blocked, nothing broken thankfully. I have flashed my Sonoff basic with Tasmota and set GPIO14 to Switch1 and tried 2 variants of SwitchMode - 0 and 1. My issue is related to wiring. I thought I could connect my Sonoff to the external wall switch on the lamp side by doing the following: Open the lamp Cut the L and the N wires Connect the L and N wires coming from the wall to L and N of Inputs of the Sonoff Connect the L and N wires going to the lamp to L and N of Outputs of the Sonoff I have not done any other soldering or connection (like connecting GPIO14 to Ground...) on my Sonoff. When the power switch is ON, I can connect the device using the web interface, MQTT etc. But when I turn the wall switch off, the power to the Sonoff also gets cutoff and it no longer has internet connection. I am sure this is expected because and I am doing something wrong on the wiring side. But I don't know how to fix it. Can you please advise. Thanks. (I can't do this in my switchbox as it does not have enough space).
One thing I haven't seen mentioned here or in posts, is this can ONLY be done if the wall box is made of plastic and NOT METAL !! Even in a plastic box, if there are bare metal ground wires and they touch a point on the PCB where a solder connection on the live wire may pierce through the tape, it could short out. I would at least recommend put the board in an old dimmer switch if possible. then feed a White, Black and Red wire out of the dimmer box. White & Black being input, and Red being output to the light, just like most dimmers are wired.
As it is not required by NEC or IEC, the ground wire can also touch a normal switch and short. The breaker is in place to prevent any issue, and post 2012 homes require outrageously expensive AFCI breakers in many rooms. There is actually a recommendation in the NEC to wrap all switches with tape - around the screws. I never see any homes with it except for the ones I build. I don't get it.
Great effort, thank you! From 6'32" how is the regular switch added? You just say "it's all connected", but how is the regular switch connected to the SONOFF? What does the regular switch do? For situations like this it will be great if you can add a simple circuit diagram in the video. Otherwise it is actually dangerous for people who are trying to follow the video with live circuits.
Great video! If you are using Domoticz instead of Home Assistant, you do not need to change the Project Name in the code to be unique. With Domoticz, a unique IDX identifier can be used over MQTT to control every sonoff, making deployment super easy via Domoticz.
You may like it... it's totally awesome! Here's a much earlier writeup I did on my Domoticz system, which today uses a mix of MQTT & Z-Wave. wizworks.net/projects/home-automation Let me know how you like Domoticz.
FIIIIIIINALLLLY I HAVE FOUND A VIDEO USING DUMB LIGHT SWITCHES. Thank you so much. GPIO14.... WOW! Thank you a million... I've been searching the www for instructions like this and you've done it for me. Thank you!
Awesome!! Just last night I figured out how to use the other GPIO pins to serve other functions and send other MQTT messages. That video will be done in a week or so :) Love the AndroTux logo
DrZzs I am over the moon I've found this video. To be honest Doc, I've scrolled pass this video a million times because I thought it was the same as every other video I've seen, using Sonoff. But it was only till I watched your Tasmota update that you mentioned you'll show how to connect a "dumb" switch that I got very excited and watched this video. There might be a lot of me out there Doc looking for this missing piece of info. May I suggest to add something to the title of your video to say something like using a normal wall light switch with a Sonoff. Thank you thank you again Doc.
I was checking the sonoff basic r2 I got and its only for 10amps, households circuit breakers are typically 15 or 20 amps, This will cause the sonoff to burn before the breakers starts protecting. I guess we should use an inline fuse (of 10 amps) before the input line to protect the house from burning. I see you are using this sonoff for your home. So probably you should do this too, Dr Zzz
Hi, great video.. Just a small trick. If you have only 2 wires coming from the light (first light switch wiring diagram), you may simply install your sonoff directly in your light box and use that 2 wires going the switch to drive your sonoff.. I don't know if it's clear?
Thanks!Where does the neutral wire come from in that scenario? The only way I can see to use just the 2 wires would be to have the hot wire go to the Input Line on the Sonoff and the other wire (the switch leg) to the Output Line. You still need a Neutral or the Wifi chip and relay won't function. It might work to put a small wire from the Input(or output) Neutral contact on the sonoff to Ground. But I would not do that. I probably shouldn't even bring it up as an option. If what you're saying is you use the two wires as Input L and Input N on the Sonoff, that might power up the sonoff, but then what wire is left over to go to your lights? I'm certainly wrong sometimes. If you have a sonoff (or any other smart switch) somehow working in this situation with just 2 wires coming from the lights, I'd love to get more details about how you're doing it. I just don't see how it can work without 3 wires, a Hot, a Neutral, and a Switchleg. If I'm wrong that would be great actually!
Hi DrZzs, What I meant is you can install your sonoff directly in the light's electrical box... you use the 3 wires from the circuit breaker(gnd neutral and live) to power the sonoff. Connect the output of the sonoff directly to the light. You can use the remaining two wires and maybe gnd that goes to the switch to drive the GPIO14... What do you think about it?
Baby steps. I hadn't done anything like this a few months ago. You can use the Sonoffs out-of-the-box, and they work great and are quite cheap. When you feel like getting a Home Automation Hub (like Home Assistant), then you can take the next step and flash the firmware.
First off, thanks for the great videos, Second, some advice please; I havent tested yet but need to know if I do this gpio14 switch, can I make the normal wall rocker switch do the opposite of the sonoff current state? If the Sonoff is on, turn off and vice versa?
Thanks for the video. I just opened my switch box and found that there are four wire to the switch. Line, neutral, ground and load. So i just ignored the load wire, add sonoff to the line and neutral?
Dr Zzs...how will the light work if all we have is a couple of wires from the switch to the light? Bit confused...Are you saying that the light is connected to the power source already with the switch acting as a breaker?
Hi DrZzs, I have a Sonoff BASIC RF R2 power v1.0 and it runs on a ESP8285 instead of a ESP8266 chip. The GPIO 14 hole is no longer there, but instead the have broke out the GPIO2. My question is, will your technique work with soldering to GPIO2 instead?
I've used capacitive touch buttons as well. ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html I don't know Livolo switches. You'd have to tell me more about them before I can be much help.
Ok I fixed my communications problem with my switches. I am trying to connect a sonoff to a regular toggle home switch. I am however having a hard time finding the IP address on my switches. The name changes on my modem and I can't find them the way you have it described.
Really Nice Video ... I have installed the sonoff same way as shown and its works fine... Can the sonoff with Tasmota & the 2 way switch ( manual & wifi as shown in the video ) work without a home assistant directly work with Blynk app through our phone?? Like how we can control a Wemos D1 mini through Blynk.
Thanks!I haven't used Blynk. Tasmota can receive commands via HTTP. So if Blynk can send http commands you can use the Tasmotized Sonoffs without a Home Assistant hub and without MQTT. github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Commands#web
I got a wall switch and the box only has 2 wires, that means that there's no neutral wire, and the way the switch words is by splitting the hot wire in 2, how can I connect the Sonoff basic?
Despite what was said in the video, you can still make it work. Those two wires probably run directly to the box the light is mounted to. Leave the switch as-is, and remove the light fixture. Inside the two wires to your switch probably connect to hot/black and one side of the light fixture. You want the sonof to do that instead, and those two wires will connect to the sonof GPIO and ground. Basically it is exactly as he portrays, but the wires between the switch and module are just longer.
Question, I'm working on setting this up with the newer Sonoff Basic R2 RF Power V1.0 PCB that is being sold now. This PCB version doesn't have a pad or port for GPIO14. I understand that GPIO2 won't work because it causes a boot failure if pulled low. From what I've researched the only way to really do this with the new hardware is to utilize the RX port and then set it as you would GPIO14. The only issue with this is it stops you from being able to serial flash the board again, but as long as you have already flashed with Tazmota, you shouldn't need it as you can reflash OTA. Do you see anything wrong with this configuration or do you know of a better way? I'm somewhat new to HA but learning fast. I'm an IT pro who works on servers and switches all day anyway. But anything you can help with is very much appreciated. Thanks again!
Ya, and there's even a newer R3 version hitting the market this month. I haven't heard of a better solution than what you describe for using the R2's with an external switch. Once you get Tasmota on there, you shouldn't ever need the serial ports again. I have several older sonoffs that I've used Rx for Temp/Humidity or even Motion sensors without an issue, so it should be fine. Hopefully I'll get one of the R3's soon and we can start figuring out what we'll need to do to make it work best for our needs. Good luck!
DrZzs, this really work! But I find it really difficult/ and dangerous to shove the sonoff in the junction/gang box when it is cluttered of stiff wires. Chances of wire getting loose and potentially short circuit and explode. It happened to me to be honest, I managed to get one in and it is working but just not at ease. I guess I will be just using my remaining sonoffs with extension cords. Thank you for this very informative video. All the best.
To be fair, electricians to just shove the wires into the box, and with the exception of the deepest boxes, the wiring pushes against the switch - especially for any rocker/dimmer style switch. There are standards defined by the IEC for how many of some gauge wire can be put into a box, and it accounts for the size of the box, along with a switch being mounted as well. Just rest assured... or don't maybe as it isn't a great way to wire a receptacle or switch, that what he did in the video is how most houses & commercial buildings are wired.
Do you have a schematic picture how it will look when you connect Sonoff to the light switch? It would be much easier to understand and visualize the connections. For normal light switch and for three way switch if possible, please.
I've got other videos that show that better. 3-way switch (2 videos) ua-cam.com/video/EroQ_Eos1HY/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html Updated & Better Sonoff light switch video ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html 3-way diagram: www.dropbox.com/s/9mzqw3z2lwduovp/Screenshot%202018-04-23%2009.03.38.png?dl=0 The connection to the sonoff is the same for 3-way or normal switch. Power from the circuit goes into the sonoff Input, the lights are connected to the sonoff output. The switch is connected to GPIO 14 and Ground. Hope that helps!
Hi Very nice and well made video. I have light switch in my garage and i want to use the sonoff, but my the garage lights , can be switched on and off from two different switches (far from each other) Just to clarify things a bit , these 2 switches are hard wired to the same board and the same lights , and they are used just for better accessibility , meaning , if you are at one end of the garage you can switch on , and when you are at the other end , you can switch off My question , can i use a sonoff switch with this setup? Or maybe there are other switches that may work?
Hi. That sounds like a 3-way switch. There are a few ways to use a Sonoff or other device in that arrangement. ua-cam.com/video/EroQ_Eos1HY/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/mSENAY9_AlI/v-deo.html There are off-the-shelf 3 way smart switches too, like this: amzn.to/2IbDFgS Hope that helps!
I'm working on that right now. That is the most popular request. I think the solution is going to be in the Home Automation Hub, rather than hardware. I'm hoping to get my setup working and get a video out soon. Give me another week or two.
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Hi everyone, I have an electronic old fashion lock that works with key or with a pulse button that opens it automatically just when I push it. Is there any sonoff or way to make it smart also that it works with the key, the button but also from sonoff or any other device Smartphone app?
After getting inspired watching your videos, I have ordered a few sonoff basic R2 switches. GPIO14 pin is missing in the new switch, please let me know the soldering process to install this R2 switch in the wall. Note: I successfully tasmotised the sonoff.
When I shove the Sonoff board (no housing) into switchbox, the reset switch (GPIO 0?) is pressed against other wires in the tight box, and the relay is held low all the time. Is there a safe way to remove that switch, or the black rod that's attached to it? Or disable that switch temporarily in the Sonoff configuration?
Thanks for your video ! Can I use gpio14 as float detector sensor? The idea is to alert me( home assistant notification )when the sensor/s changes. For this proposal I don’t know if it’s better MCU or d1.
Hi Drzzs, I see that you are wrapping the sonoff with electric tape and putting behind the wall. Is it safe to wrap it? Wouldn't it have any heating issues?
well... not sure it's the best solution. There are 110v solder lines on the back. The board doesn't get hot so heating hasn't been an issue. I've moved to 3d printed boxes that fit the Sonoff Basic. But in theory Electrical tape should be able to provide adequate insulation. But ya, not the safest method for insulating. I wish I could get some really large heat shrink tubing. That would be a good solution.
What will be power adapter recommendation for "1 Channel Inching /Self-Locking WiFi Wireless Switch 5V " . 5 Volt 1Amp or 5 Volt 2 Amp or 5 Volt 3Amp ?
Hey DrZzs, love the videos! I believe I have the configuration you describe at 2:26. I know you said this will won't with the Sonoff Switch, but this was a almost a year ago. Do you know if anything has changed or am I out of luck? If not, can you suggest another switch? I'm trying put this behind a standard flip switch. If this doesn't work I guess I'll have to resort to buying a bunch of smart switches to finish automating my lights. Thanks!
I did show an example of how you could use a sonoff in that situation: ua-cam.com/video/EroQ_Eos1HY/v-deo.html Essentially, you have to put the sonoff (or other smart device) up in the ceiling where the lights are getting power. Then you use the wires that run from the lights to the switch to connect to GPIO-14 and ground. There isn't a way to do it in the switch box.
Once again, love your Videos and I now have several sonoff's running tasmota. I have even placed them in my light switches. My next question is do you know if sonoff basic running tasmota could work with a dimmer switch? IE: I connect dimmer switch to GPIO14 & ground. Will it turn on/off and dim as well?
Thanks! Unfortunately, no. The function of the GPIO pin is just on/off. There are a lot of people requesting iTead make a "hackable" dimmer. You'd have to put the dimmer after the sonoff on the main hot wire to the switch. I'm on the hunt for a DIY smart dimmer. If you find one out in the wild let me know. If I find out how to make one you can be sure I'll make a video about it.
Thanks for the vid! So with the rocker switches, if the rocker is in the standard “on” position and you switch the light off in the app, if you switch the rocker to the standard “off” position, does that turn the light back on? So the rocker switch would essentially reverse the on/off positions when the light is switched on/off through the app?
This is a great video thanks! A quick question. If the switch is hard-wired like this can the sonoff work in standalone? (ie if the wifi and broker is down would the physical switch still turn the light on as long as the sonoff has power or does it rely on a network connection? Understand for remote control wifi and broker would need to be online!
That was awesome! I just found you via a HA Community thread. Subscribed! I am very new to HA (waiting on parts to arrive so I can start). I am looking to do a HASS.io and RasPI setup. I'll also have a Aeotech Z-Wave USB stick going on it. Would I still be able to use the Sonoff switch as you've described here with my hub setup? Thanks DrZzs
you sure will. in fact, if you haven't seen them yet I have a couple videos that are newer than this one that explain the basic setup for Hassio and tasmota, including mqtt. And, an update on the sonoff conversion to light switch. ua-cam.com/video/c2IUIUnxjUY/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html
Hi, This is really helpful. I have an additional question. Will flashing the Sonoff with Tasmodo prohibit it from using it with the original software or from connecting to Alexa/Google home?
After Tasmotizing you won't be able to use the eWeLink app. You will be able to use Alexa and Google home, but it will take a couple extra steps. Here's my explanation of why I change the firmware. You don't have to change to Tasmota to use a Sonoff as a switch. ua-cam.com/video/MyPpmDAThA4/v-deo.htmlm8s
This is so awesome. I don't suppose you know how this would work for the UK so you? This is exactly what I've been after (it passes the "wife acceptance" test!) There isn't much room behind UK switch plates so I may have to mess about a bit to get it to fit.
Great video, dropped a like and subbed for the future, question or two for you. Where did you get the shnazzy push button switch from the beginning (not the 3D printed one)?? Any idea if this will work with Samsung SmartThings?? I saw your other comments on the possible safety implications so that’s already answered and if you could get it to work with Alexa in the future post a vid on that!! Thanks Boss!!
Thanks! I'm planning on getting Alexa connected to Home Assistant. I've read how to do it, but haven't tackled it yet. Here's a link to that switch: amzn.to/2yvHbdj I actually found some I like better. Still shiny, but lower profile: amzn.to/2j5bkuz I bought a SmartThings Hub too. Haven't even opened it yet, but it's on the vid-to-do list!
14g or even 16g rated for at least 120v (usually it'll be rated for like 600v, so that's not an issue). The stuff I used in this video was speaker wire but that' wasn't a smart choice, so don't use that. something like this: amzn.to/2GJmP4H seems kinda expensive though. If you have an old extension cord that size wire would be fine too.
Ok... along with the 3-way questions... I have a light switch that only controls the plugs for the lights in the room... but I want to make the room 3-way from another door, is there a switch that's battery powered that I can surface mount at the other door to turn the room "3-way" using a sonoff to replace the only switch???
Yes. You can try following one of these: ua-cam.com/video/ImVK5cGVrpQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/9X3ZIv1joLo/v-deo.html But you also just gave me a great idea!! Sonoff makes an SV (safe voltage) board. You could just connect that to a battery and stick it anywhere! Dude! That's a great idea! The 3-way switch video is coming together, it'll be out monday. Then I think I'll do this battery powered Sonoff SV next! You're a genius!!
So, what are the options if your whole house is done like example 1. only to wires coming down to the switch, one L, one.... also L, as soon you press the switch? Not sure if this is just old Yugoslavian practice, but it feels that today in Croatia most of us have houses set like this. A box a the top of the wall, and then just 2 wires coming down towards the switch.
it seems like a lot of houses in Europe are like that. Your choices are 1- Find a switch that doesn't require a Neutral wire (some do exist). Or if you use something like a Sonoff or a Shelly, you can put those in the ceiling where the power comes into the lights. A Shelly1 would probably be the best option. amzn.to/2JymZhY shelly.cloud/shelly1-open-source/
@@DrZzs tnx a lot, so basically no way to implement sonoff touch unless I can pull a neutral wire from the light all the way back down to the switch box.
That's a good question. I found an answer on the Sonoff manufacturers website: support.iteadstudio.com/support/discussions/topics/11000011177 Essentially they are not inspected or approved for in-wall installation. If you feel comfortable installing them in your own house, that's up to you. But if/when you sell your house to another person you should take them out. That's what I plan on doing, eventually.
Scott Laxon I’ve heard that too. These sonoffs are not UL listed. As I understand it, any non-UL listed device that causes a fire would give an insurance company a reason not to pay. And they are HAPPY to find any reason not to pay. The sonoffs are CE certified. So in Europe they are considered safe. Everyone has to make their own decision on this. I feel safe using them in my switch boxes. But when I sell my house I will be taking them out so I’m not passing that risk on to the next owner. I appreciate you bringing up the risk because everyone should know they aren’t UL listed. Hopefully someday they will be. Thanks!
National Electric Code specifies not only the device be approved, but many other aspects of the installation. Violation - low voltage speaker wire not approved for in wall AC; Violation - wire splice connector not approved for application; violation - volume used in the duplex box exceeds specification. There are probably more code violations that one could come up with. And yes, if this causes a fire, you can be certain your insurance company isn't going to pay. I like these devices, but would never consider using them in this manner.
Dude, you are awesome! Following your tutorials, from flashing the Sonoff with Tasmota, before I was using an sketch for Arduino very very problematic, and only used for 3 devices, and all the lights of my house wired from a 16 relays board connected to my Raspberry. I didnt want to use Sonoff for lights, because I had a lot of problems and sometimes I could not make it work. I've just finished, I removed more than 150 meters of cable added to the electrical instalation of my home.. A disaster!, and installed 12 Sonoff Basic running Tasmota. I have only one question, when adding the switches to the configuration.yaml you use the parameter qos=1, would you explain what is this?. Before I was using qos=0, but really dont know why, it just worked (sometimes..). Looking in the HASS documentation, it says 'The maximum QoS level of the state topic. Default is 0 and will also be used to publishing messages.', but still dont understand. Thank you so much, congrats for the videos, and thank you, very very usefull for me. You won a new suscriptor.
Thanks! I can't remember right now what the different qos levels mean/do exactly. Rob did a good job explaining QoS in one of his videos, but I can't remember which one it was. You might have to watch them all :) ua-cam.com/channels/2gyzKcHbYfqoXA5xbyGXtQ.html
I basically did this same thing also. I used flexible wire also. Have you figured out how to control a light that has 2 separate light switches that can control it? example: Hallway light switch on both ends of the hall
You mean a 3-way switch. No I haven't solved that one yet. Here's Pete's video that is something like that with Sonoff Basics running ESPeasy. ua-cam.com/video/xQltSHSVleI/v-deo.html It's on my list of things to figure out. Hopefully I can get to it soon. I have a lot of 3-way switches that need to get "smart" If you do it before me, let me know how it goes.
Yeah I have a few as well that i need to do . I was hoping I could set a sonoff on each switch, and let HA keep them in sync so the state stays the same on both switches. I saw Petes video, but Tasmota is confusing enough, espeasy is rocket science... I have so many project but my limitations is programming and coding. I still havnt figured out how the heck to do automation.....
It's easy. A second Sonoff without connection to the lights, but a virtual connection that switches the first Sonoff wireless (that's the reason we use the Sonoffs :) ). The code depends on your home automation sw.
Funny, we've lived in a wired hardware world for so long, we look for wired hardware solutions first. So, the second non-light-connected Sonoff, triggers the first Sonoff to toggle, and bingo, 3-way switch. I'll have to try that out tomorrow. Thanks!
I have single pole light switches, so, as you stated, "I'm in trouble and need to find another switch." Do you have any idea what other switch or method I could use?
Craig Durant What you’ll have to do is get into the box behind your light. That should be where the main power is coming in. You can put the sonoff in there, then use the wires going to your wall switch as the GPIO 14 and ground wires. So mains power goes to the input on the sonoff. Then the output from the sonoff goes to the light. Then the wires from the light box to the switch will connect to GPIO 14 and ground. That should do it. Good Luck!
Hey DrZzs, can I hook up the sonoff so that it has constant power and has the switch but does nothing? My house wiring was weird on a few three way switches so I have two switches that do nothing at the moment, I'd like to just have the sonoff report to home assistant the switch was turned 'on' so that I can create some automations to act like it was still part of a threeway switch.
Hey DrZzs - I love your videos. I just found your site a few weeks ago and i've started to tinker. I took your advice on getting flexible AWG 12 wiring to tie into the romex wires, it does seem to be a lot easier. However, how and the heck did you fit 12gauge wires into those tiny relays on the sonoff basic? Thanks!
Thanks!ya, sorry about that. 12g is a little too big. I thinned it at the ends by trimming some of the strands with wire clips so it would fit. I've learned a lot since that video, and I don't use 12g wire anymore. 14g, or even 16g is enough. I've even used the solid stuff, it's not too bad. Have you watched the Zzonoff video yet? It's got some updated info and an improved method for Sonoffitizing a light switch. If you haven't seen it, check it out! ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html
No. I don't expect it would be covered. If you want full UL listed devices like this you'll have to get the $30 variety. I think your best bet is to do some things to make sure (or as sure as possible) that you won't have a fire because of this device. I'm finishing up a video that I'll have out this coming Monday about exactly that. The #1 thing to do is to add a 10 amp fuse to the Line-in wire. You can get a wired fuse holder and 10 amp fuse for about $1.50. That'll go a long way toward avoiding ever having a problem with overloading and fire. The other thing is to make sure you aren't overloading the Sonoff by calculating the load you're putting on the device. For example if you have five 60w light bulbs at 110v that's about 3 amps. (w/v=a) Keep the load below 10 amps (which would be 20 bulbs!) and you should be fine. Hope that helps.
Is there a way to do this and use it with Alexia and to do it do I have to make a home assistant hub that deals with it. I have no problem with the coding but do not want to not be able to manually turn the light on and off.
Yes, flash it as he said, add it via ESPHome or as a normal entity via MQTT, and it will be discovered by Alexa. HA works as a broker at this point, so you can "pre-configure" all of your entities, whether they exist or not, and Alexa will discover them.
yes. There is a switchmode setting it tasmota that enables the "hold" function. I did a video about it (I think I covered hold...) ua-cam.com/video/kiXAGkyqFeU/v-deo.html That should help :)
good question There's an option to have the sonoff (with Tasmota) emulate a Hue Bridge or a Belkin WeMo. Looks like some folks have had trouble getting alexa to detect Tasmotized devices, but seems most can eventually get it to work: github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/596 Let me know if you get it working. I have an original echo and 5 echo dots in our house, but haven't gotten around to including them in my Home Automation set-up yet. So many projects, so little time.
To anyone reading this after Feb 2019, yes, the Sonoff can still be used with Alexa/Homekit/Google via HA or OpenHab, or your own "skill" as Amazon calls them.
Thanks! What are you trying to do exactly? Are you planning to use the Temp/Humidity sensor and a push button? www.itead.cc/sonoff-th.html www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_TH_10/16 You may be able to sort out where the pins are from the schematic on the wiki page. Unfortunately, I don't find the TH on the Tasmota page. It is a supported device, but doesn't look like anyone has traced out the pins and/or uploaded more info about that exact model. One of the comments on the sonoff-th page says the 4pin jack uses gpio 4 and 14. I'm guessing by "jack" they mean where the Temp/Humidity sensor plugs in. So if you're using the sensor they send with it, you probably don't want to use gpio14 for a button. If you're planning on using Tasmota with it you could use one of the serial pins as a button after you've flashed it. Sorry I'm not more help. That's not a model I've used before. Good Luck!
yes, you're right! I'm going to show that example in the maker faire display. I wasn't thinking of putting the sonoff in the ceiling (with the lights), but yes, that would work in that situation. Thanks!
When you set these up with momentary switches, what happens during wifi outages? Will the switch still toggle on/off as intended or will the lights only turn on if you keep the button pressed?
I think it still works with the momentary switch during WiFi outages. Switchmode is something internal for the Tasmota firmware you are running on the device. The device does not need to connect to anything to get this information. One exception is if you change the switchTopic from 0(default)to 1. Under switchTopic 1, when the switch changes state, it sends a MQTT message to the topic and the device receives the command to change state. During WiFi outages, there is no MQTT to connect to.
This makes me wonder if you could use a sonoff dual to control two light switch I have lots of places where I want to control to lights ( outside garage lights and mailbox light they are in the same switch box and I'm not sure that two sperate sonoff baisic will fit
Steven Reed Sonoff makes boards with multiple relays that would do what you need. I haven’t used one yet but I have the same situation so I’ll get to it eventually. 2 Channel: ITead Sonoff Dual Channel WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Works with Amazon Alexa, Control two home appliances with APP,remote control Appliance Controller for DIY Smart Home www.amazon.com/dp/B06XST8B83/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HYffAbKACKAEB 4 channel: Sonoff 4CH Smart Switch 4 Channel Din Rail Mounting Wi-Fi Switch ,Wireless Remote Independently Control 4 Devices or Home Appliances, Works with Amazon Alexa Google Home www.amazon.com/dp/B075H9KPRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BXffAbMYTB5M9
No, you can still use a sonoff, you just have to place the sonoff in the ceiling, or wherever the power comes in from the main panel. Like this: ua-cam.com/video/EroQ_Eos1HY/v-deo.html
They replaced GPIO14 with "Key" pin .. There is also another better method using existing household wall switch! You will need to buy an overpriced chip solder it to Sonoff, you will not need to flash your Sonoff and you can keep using eWelink , if you wish... www.ebay.com/itm/E77-Wall-Switch-Connectivity-Module-for-Sonoff-Basic-New-R2-1-Ch-Wifi-IOT-Switch/273576948115?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 lebhile-com.shopclues.com/e77-wall-switch-connectivity-module-for-sonoff-basic-1-channel-wifi-iot-switch..-140217634.html
yes, you sure can. The reason for using new firmware is to get the Sonoff communicating with Home Assistant (or your home automation hub of choice). With the default software, you can only control them from the eWeLink app.
Hi, Yes I flash all my sonoffs (and even some D1 minis) with Tasmota. ua-cam.com/video/c2IUIUnxjUY/v-deo.html The main reason I do that is to be able to control the devices in Home Assistant. Hope that helps!
Hello DrZzs. Please tell me how does it work with rocker switch? :) you can turn it off by wifi but to turn it on again with rocker switch you how to switch it off and on again, am i right?
TheDrunkenPL Nope. Thankfully you’re wrong 😎 It doesn’t matter which method you use to turn it off or on, the next method you use will turn it to whichever state it isn’t already in. Just like a 3 way switch. It works like you hope it would. Hope that helps!
Please don't use automotive 12v barrel connectors (the blue ones) they are not rated for 120v. They could heat up with the current flowing through them causing the blue plastic to melt and possibly catch fire inside your wall. Same for the speaker wire used to connect to the output of the Sonoff it is not rated for 120v and could cause a fire risk. Use proper 120v wire (either salvage it or cut up a extension cord) and use wire nuts to make splices.
You are absolutely right. That was not very smart of me. In my haste to finish the project I just used what I had on hand. Thank you for bringing it up so others don't do the dumb thing that I did.
Hi DrZzs. I`m using a sonoff with a "normal" switc in my room (Thanks for the tutorial!). It has been working flawlessly for two weeks. But today Im having some trouble, when I use the switch, it takes several seconds to turn on/off the light (when I use the button in the web page it responds inmediately). Maybe Its necessary/recommended to restart the sonoff every week?
I have had some strange behavior from the sonoffs occasionally. I think the wires from the switch to GPIO14 might be picking up enough interference to not function properly. Good news is there's a fix. I didn't know about it when I made this video, but I'm planning to include it in another video soon. Here's the instructions if you want to try it. Scroll down under "Electrical Considerations". github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Expanding-Sonoffs Hope that fixes it!
OK I lied the light isn't coming on the state just changes for a second in home assistant then it goes back to off I already have my sonoff mounted in the wall how can I access the tasmota menu via wifi I do see the device in my router so it is connected to my network, any help much appreciated. So close yet so far away have a feeling I have a name wrong some where, whats bet way to debug.
Thanks! I used 16g. I wish there was a better solution for that. Like the kind of connectors on some light switches where you just push the solid copper wire in and it holds tight. Wish iTead would use that for the sonoffs.
Totally agree. I have been sending emails, feature requests etc. No response. Plus wish they reduce the profile for sonoff to easily fit in the standard 1 gang box. What is your experience with wrapping in electrical tape?
ha. well, no fires yet. I was surprised my brother-in-law who is an electrical engineer didn't have an issue with that. It does make it smaller. I started using more push-buttons and not re-using the regular rocker switch. That makes for a lot more space in the box, and I can leave the case on it. I just drill a hole in the case for the switch wires to come out.
I tried to put in 3 x 2 x 3 1/2" box with 3 14x2 wires in it. It was way overcrowded. I tried your approach, still it would not fit with this many wires and I saw this on electrical code and potential risk, hence pulled out to see if there are other options. inspectapedia.com/electric/Electrical_Outlet_Box_Types.php
In case you guys didn't see this: ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html I did a 3-way switch video. There's another way to do it too. I'll get that video out when I can. Good Luck!
Does it matter what gauge wire I use to solder the switch to the GPIO pins on the board? I soldered on some female headers to make flashing a little easier, so I'm wondering if I should remove those or if I can get away with male pins and small gauge wire coming from the switch.
I'm sure there is. I haven't done it so I don't have the details to give you. I would expect you could power the led on the button from some gpio pin on the sonoff, then set it so that pin is ON when the relay is OFF.
Great videos! I have followed your tutorials exactly and currently I use the emulator function as a wemo to work with my phone and Alexa. Everything works perfect. Is there a way I can hook up one to a 3-way switch?(US definition) is it as simple as putting one sonoff at each switch and changing the configuration to switch 02? Any response is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Thanks! I have a video about doing 3-way switches. My way isn't the only way, but I did pretty much what you suggest. I put one sonoff connected to the lights directly, then ran power to the other sonoffs using the 3-way wires that were already running between the switch boxes. Then just set the other sonoffs to control the first via MQTT. ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html Read the comments on that video. Someone said there's a way to do it in Tasmota instead of through a Home Assistant Automation. I haven't changed mine, but that seems like an easier and maybe more reliable method. Hope that helps!
drbent14 That’s a good question. I’ve certainly thought about it. I plan on living in this house for 20 years, but when it does come time to sell it I’ll have to discuss it with the buyer. I feel safe. But there’s probably some liability if you sell the house to someone else. That’s an issue in the DIY smart home community that we’ll have to tackle at some point.
evaldas raisutis I can’t say I know how to do that. It probably isn’t possible to use a dimmer with the sonoff. As far as I know the only function of the external switch pins is to trigger the relay. Connecting a dimmer to it won’t give dimmer functions. Sorry. Maybe someday they’ll make a dimmable sonoff. Or maybe someone else has a solution I’m not aware of. That sure is possible.
There are several videos out there where folks test the device heat buildup with various loads. Given wrapping the device in electrical tape vs. the heat resistant (up to a few hundred degrees) case, it would probably be wise to only do an in-wall DIY installation in low load situations, e.g. 100W would be rare, but there's always someone who would try this with a huge 10 bulb X 100W situation and 3-4 of the devices all crammed into the same switch box.
If I connect the main power to the Sonoff input, the light to the output, and a rocker switch to the GPIO and ground, will the switch just toggle the lights, or would I have to switch the light to off and then on again to turn the lights on using the switch?
yes, the switch just toggles the lights. It's really like a 3-way switch setup. The button on the sonoff (connected to your rocker switch) acts like one 3-way switch, then the MQTT/Home Assistant/WebUI control acts like the other 3-way switch. So no matter which method you use to turn it on/off, the other method (or using that same method again) will toggle the lights to the state they are not in. Basically, it works like you hope it would. If you're trying this for the first time check out the newer version of this video: ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html and if you don't have Home Assistant set up yet, here's a video for that: ua-cam.com/video/c2IUIUnxjUY/v-deo.html Good Luck! Let me know if you get stuck along the way!
Have you tried configuring Sonoff Duo? I believe it can control two lights independently. Is there a version of Tasmoto available for Sonoff Duo? Do you have guideline to control individual switch from tasmoto duo. Any help would be appreciated
nathaniel blakley Thanks! If you have a 3rd red wire then you have a 3-way switch situation. I just finished a video for that. I’d link it here but I’m on my phone. If you go to my channel page and the video tab it’ll be there.
ok, back at the computer. Here's a link to the 3-way video ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html That is just one solution. There is another. ua-cam.com/video/l-CM8JQmges/v-deo.html I haven't tried this second solution yet, but I will soon and I'll get another video together about it. It'll probably take a few weeks for me to get that one out. So many projects so little time!
Hi DrZzs !! first: You are a genius buddy! I have a question to ask you I hope you can help me, I have a common 4 channel wall switch, to light 4 different lighting groups. I want to put 2 double sonoffs inside the wall box, since it takes up less space. can i connect two switches as you did in the minute 1:54 (soldering GPIO 14 and ground) ?
Thanks! If you’re using the Sonoff Dual (R2 version) there are dedicated pins for two switches all set with headers even. So yes you can have 2 switches. Hope that helps
I see you soldered the two wires to GPIO14 and GND for the light switch connection. Since I already have a 5-piece female header strip soldered onto the Sonoff (like a lot of people will have after flashing), can I just use two male jumper cables and cut one end to screw to the switch, or are jumper connections not recommended for a permanent solution? Rewatching your tutorial a few times, I noticed you did not solder any header to flash it, just inserted jumperst into the holes... so maybe I'll try that for next one so that I don't have to unsolder it.
You can totally use jumpers for your switch wires. I've done it that way on other boards. They hold pretty tight. Ya, I soldered a header on the first couple I flashed, then realized it wasn't necessary and I could save some time. There is a way to flash them without touching the board. github.com/mirko/SonOTA I'm working on that video right now. Should be done next week.
yes! ua-cam.com/video/ONFhXM5R-t4/v-deo.html The problem now is the newer firmware on the Sonoffs (ver 1.6) makes it impossible to do OTA :( If you get some older Sonoffs with older firmware you can still do OTA. But those are getting harder to find.
Followed last video but keep getting the following error. Can you help. Arduino: 1.8.5 (Windows 10), Board: "Generic ESP8266 Module, 80 MHz, 40MHz, DOUT, 115200, 1M (64K SPIFFS), ck, Disabled, None" Build options changed, rebuilding all C:\arduino-1.8.5-windows\arduino-1.8.5\portable\packages\esp8266\tools\xtensa-lx106-elf-gcc\1.20.0-26-gb404fb9-2/bin/xtensa-lx106-elf-ar: unable to rename 'C:\Users\budlyte\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_build_499414/arduino.ar'; reason: File exists exit status 1 Error compiling for board Generic ESP8266 Module
I certainly can! How's this: ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html Working on another method using just one sonoff. Gonna take a few weeks to get that one done though. Good Luck!
Yea, I'm kinda getting that. Seeing as how I use these devices with Node Red and Mosquitto (Raspberry Pi) anything that provides MQTT and http will pretty much do anything I need. I am finding though, that the Rules feature in ESPEasy does allow me to offload the fixed, local control stuff to the unit level which is kinda nice. Not sure if Tasmota has a similar local control capability. Gotta say, not being a programmer, no longer having to deal with C++ has made my Home Automation and hobby stuff a lot more fun. I can concentrate more on hardware which is more my wheelhouse. So glad people worked so hard to develop these programs.
ESP Easy is highly configurable (usually without re-compiling) and was designed to work on any esp8266 based hardware, which also means it has more of a learning curve than tasmota. In the device itself, one can setup timers and actions that do not require a home automation system at all. For example, want a switch that turns itself on when some condition is met, say a certain time of day or an IR detector firing or a certain temperature being reached, then turns itself off after 30 minutes or some other condition, ESP Easy can do that without even being connected to Wifi. That being said, tasmota has grown a lot. Many things it couldn't do a year or so ago are now possible so it's hard to say which will be better down the road. For simply interfacing to a remote light switch or getting the temperature from a standard sensor to a home automation system, tasmota is easier. For those that are making custom devices or coming up with unique uses based on the esp8266, ESP Easy is going to be a more flexible choice.
Hi Dr Zzs, Awesome Video! I've managed to flash Tasmota onto my Sonoff and get it all setup in HA and can turn the light on and off with no issues! Winning! However I'm having issues with the push button on the sonoff itself, a toggle switch connected to GPIO14 and even the web UI. The configuration module for GPIO14 is set to 09 Switch1 as instructed but when any of these is triggered (button, switch or Web UI) the state only momentarily changes... I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Please Help!
try changing the switchmode in the console. Here's a link to the Tasmota page that talks about switchmode. I'm a little concerned when you say it even switches only momentarily when you toggle in the webUI. Try different switchmodes and see if that does anything. If not we'll try and come up with something else.
Hey DrZzs! Thanks for the quick reply, I tried all that last night, every single switchmode to no avail. I think it might have something to do with RF interference and the connected switch wires. I’m going to try putting a low pass filter on and see what happens.....
Hey DrZzs, After some more component isolation I have discovered the following: the low pass filter does nothing to fix my Sonoff's! When a Sonoff is connected to its own dedicated circuit it works fine, switch, button web UI and HA, as it did when testing before inserting into the wall. One Sonoff connected and it works fine inside the wall. The issue begins when 2 or more Sonoff's are connect to a circuit. Each switch plate has wires coming from the circuit breaker however these are split into three separate circuits for the lights within the house. Effectively when I add one or more Sonoff's to the one circuit they are connected in parallel and this is when the issue begins. Any ideas of where to go from here? I have no idea why the input from the circuit breaker would effect the Sonoff at all. Many thanks
Really like your channel and just to state, aside from compliance issues, the typical technical challenge we face in the UK with our lighting circuits is that they are wired as in the first option you showed so you just have the switching wires without the neutral to power the Sonoff plus we have much smaller back boxes. This would also be the issue with their Touch switches despite having a UK version this is to fit our standard back boxes but it still needs a neutral.
It's not a complete write off though as most lights have all the connections at the ceiling rose so you could rewire it there, using the switch connections for GPIO 14 and ground. Then poking the sonoff basic up in the ceiling void although you'd have to make a much bigger hole than you'd normally have. I'd like to see Sonoff make a version of the basic within a ceiling rose with the necessary compliance as I'd expect they'd sell quite a few in the UK. Also, whilst I'm at it, they should produce a nicer, safer case for the basic for that it can be used as a inline lamp switch. This shouldn't cost them very much to do and I'm sure they'd sell loads.
I concur.
Have you seen the Shelly1?
amzn.to/2MBchfu
That's probably your best solution. It's small, it can go in your ceiling junction box, it has contacts to connect a switch, so you can connect the wires that already run from your lights to your switch. It also takes re-flashing easily.
ua-cam.com/video/J20hxfUTP9I/v-deo.html
Rob, you can use another add on circuit that changes the switch commands to an equivalent button press - rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273576948115
With this, you mount the sonoff in the ceiling or attic and use the existing switches.
I think I see a 10 pack of Sonoffs in my near future
In the Netherlands we use the NEN1010 norm for electricity.
Blue(0), Braun (fase), black(switching) and yellow/green(ground)
The spaces for junctions are mostly in the ceiling. Behind the switches we normally do not have enough space for a piece of electronics.
Vesync switches are about $7.00/each these days which isn't much more than the Sonoff minus the extensibility; still I might consider building one of these if only to gain experience using them in Home Assistant or Alexa or Google. Thanks for the video and concept!
You can leave the neutrals like they were originally and save one step, you just need to grab a little piece of wire of small gauge and attach it to the main neutral to bring neutral to the sonoff in order to run the little transformer, there is no need to pass the load neutral through the sonoff.
Not sure I can visualize exactly what you mean. So the answer is; probably yes.
What matters most is that the 2 wires going to your lights now go to the Output side of the Sonoff, and that you have a Hot/Line and a Neutral going to the Input side.
The wire you use for the neutral to the Sonoff needs to be the same guage as the Hot/Line. Don't use smaller guage wire there. Once the circuit is completed (the lights are on) that Neutral will be carrying the full current of the circuit. So if it's too small it'll heat up and could melt the insulation and cause a short. Then BANG!
DrZzs i just mean that the neutral wire just pass through the imput and output on the sonoff device you dont need to detach the neutral that goes to the light, but you need neutral for complete the circuit on the sonoff tranformer and can be just a piece of thin wire, the screws labeled hot or L on the imput and output are the only ones that need to remain like you did. Its not like you are doing it wrong, its perfectly fine but you could doit like electricians do. Neutral almost always goes directly to the load,( in rare cases you switch it too)same like wall sensors, they only have one white wire and 2 black wires, the white goes to the neutral without detaching the exixting neutrals, just taping on it, an serves just to power the sensor itself and the black wires are the real switch.
oh I see now. Cool. That would save some hassle. I'll try it that way. Thanks!
DrZzs The full charge of the light will go to the neutral like always did since like i said you dont need to separate the light neutral, even thay way its more secure since you dont have to use the output or imput neutral terminals on the sonoff to feed the light, however you need at least a thin wire on the neutral screw of the sonoff to the mains neutral in order to turn on the device, which just consume some milliamps to turn on the electronics and the relay. Check the path on the neutrals screws on the sonoff and note they are just going in and out, but there is a little path to feed the electronics.
DrZzs the thing is that the sonoff was designed to be used with extensions cords that dont even have ground, that way you need to pass the neutral for the load like it was designed on those terminals, but used like a wall switch you dont need to pass the neutral of the load through the sonoff, you only need it to feed the electronics so at the end you shoukd have only 3 wires on the sonoff, hot imput,hot output the same gauge of the wall wires, and a neutral for sonoff itself.
Hrm, If you don't use a momentary momentary push button for your switch, you'll have the same problem you'd have with smart bulbs. If the switch is off, your smart switch is offline. That's a great cost saving idea though.
Thanks for the video! I did not understand a few things and I am blocked, nothing broken thankfully. I have flashed my Sonoff basic with Tasmota and set GPIO14 to Switch1 and tried 2 variants of SwitchMode - 0 and 1.
My issue is related to wiring. I thought I could connect my Sonoff to the external wall switch on the lamp side by doing the following:
Open the lamp
Cut the L and the N wires
Connect the L and N wires coming from the wall to L and N of Inputs of the Sonoff
Connect the L and N wires going to the lamp to L and N of Outputs of the Sonoff
I have not done any other soldering or connection (like connecting GPIO14 to Ground...) on my Sonoff.
When the power switch is ON, I can connect the device using the web interface, MQTT etc. But when I turn the wall switch off, the power to the Sonoff also gets cutoff and it no longer has internet connection.
I am sure this is expected because and I am doing something wrong on the wiring side. But I don't know how to fix it. Can you please advise. Thanks. (I can't do this in my switchbox as it does not have enough space).
One thing I haven't seen mentioned here or in posts, is this can ONLY be done if the wall box is made of plastic and NOT METAL !! Even in a plastic box, if there are
bare metal ground wires and they touch a point on the PCB where a solder connection on the live wire may pierce through the tape, it could short out. I would at least recommend put the board in an old dimmer switch if possible. then feed a White, Black and Red wire out of the dimmer box. White & Black being input, and Red being output to the light, just like most dimmers are wired.
As it is not required by NEC or IEC, the ground wire can also touch a normal switch and short. The breaker is in place to prevent any issue, and post 2012 homes require outrageously expensive AFCI breakers in many rooms. There is actually a recommendation in the NEC to wrap all switches with tape - around the screws. I never see any homes with it except for the ones I build. I don't get it.
Great effort, thank you! From 6'32" how is the regular switch added? You just say "it's all connected", but how is the regular switch connected to the SONOFF? What does the regular switch do? For situations like this it will be great if you can add a simple circuit diagram in the video. Otherwise it is actually dangerous for people who are trying to follow the video with live circuits.
I knew I wanted to buy some of these things a long time ago. Now I REALLY want to get some!!!
Great video! If you are using Domoticz instead of Home Assistant, you do not need to change the Project Name in the code to be unique. With Domoticz, a unique IDX identifier can be used over MQTT to control every sonoff, making deployment super easy via Domoticz.
John Rogers Thanks!
I don’t know anything about Domoticz. I’ll have to do some learning.
Thanks!
You may like it... it's totally awesome! Here's a much earlier writeup I did on my Domoticz system, which today uses a mix of MQTT & Z-Wave. wizworks.net/projects/home-automation Let me know how you like Domoticz.
FIIIIIIINALLLLY I HAVE FOUND A VIDEO USING DUMB LIGHT SWITCHES. Thank you so much. GPIO14.... WOW! Thank you a million... I've been searching the www for instructions like this and you've done it for me. Thank you!
Awesome!!
Just last night I figured out how to use the other GPIO pins to serve other functions and send other MQTT messages. That video will be done in a week or so :)
Love the AndroTux logo
DrZzs I am over the moon I've found this video. To be honest Doc, I've scrolled pass this video a million times because I thought it was the same as every other video I've seen, using Sonoff. But it was only till I watched your Tasmota update that you mentioned you'll show how to connect a "dumb" switch that I got very excited and watched this video.
There might be a lot of me out there Doc looking for this missing piece of info. May I suggest to add something to the title of your video to say something like using a normal wall light switch with a Sonoff.
Thank you thank you again Doc.
Thanks for the feed back. I'll do that!
Just change the title
No $30 "Smart Switch" | $5 Sonoff + REGULAR Light Switch!
How's that?
That's perfect Doc. I am excited to hack my Sonoff switches now. PROPS TO YOU MATE. Thank you Doc.
I was checking the sonoff basic r2 I got and its only for 10amps, households circuit breakers are typically 15 or 20 amps, This will cause the sonoff to burn before the breakers starts protecting. I guess we should use an inline fuse (of 10 amps) before the input line to protect the house from burning. I see you are using this sonoff for your home. So probably you should do this too, Dr Zzz
you are correct. And I did start to add fuses.
Good advice. Thanks!
Hi, great video.. Just a small trick. If you have only 2 wires coming from the light (first light switch wiring diagram), you may simply install your sonoff directly in your light box and use that 2 wires going the switch to drive your sonoff.. I don't know if it's clear?
Thanks!Where does the neutral wire come from in that scenario?
The only way I can see to use just the 2 wires would be to have the hot wire go to the Input Line on the Sonoff and the other wire (the switch leg) to the Output Line. You still need a Neutral or the Wifi chip and relay won't function. It might work to put a small wire from the Input(or output) Neutral contact on the sonoff to Ground. But I would not do that. I probably shouldn't even bring it up as an option.
If what you're saying is you use the two wires as Input L and Input N on the Sonoff, that might power up the sonoff, but then what wire is left over to go to your lights?
I'm certainly wrong sometimes. If you have a sonoff (or any other smart switch) somehow working in this situation with just 2 wires coming from the lights, I'd love to get more details about how you're doing it. I just don't see how it can work without 3 wires, a Hot, a Neutral, and a Switchleg. If I'm wrong that would be great actually!
Hi DrZzs, What I meant is you can install your sonoff directly in the light's electrical box... you use the 3 wires from the circuit breaker(gnd neutral and live) to power the sonoff. Connect the output of the sonoff directly to the light. You can use the remaining two wires and maybe gnd that goes to the switch to drive the GPIO14... What do you think about it?
Hi, very good video. Will this method work with dimmerable switches?... How should be the connection diagram?
Very technical, I guess this isn't for everyone though. I think I can wing it though. thanks for the info and all the detals.
Baby steps.
I hadn't done anything like this a few months ago. You can use the Sonoffs out-of-the-box, and they work great and are quite cheap. When you feel like getting a Home Automation Hub (like Home Assistant), then you can take the next step and flash the firmware.
First off, thanks for the great videos, Second, some advice please; I havent tested yet but need to know if I do this gpio14 switch, can I make the normal wall rocker switch do the opposite of the sonoff current state? If the Sonoff is on, turn off and vice versa?
What is this flexible wire? Is it stranded? I’m trying to find some, but I don’t know what to look for.
Thanks for the video. I just opened my switch box and found that there are four wire to the switch. Line, neutral, ground and load. So i just ignored the load wire, add sonoff to the line and neutral?
Awesome video, I just saw some really awesome light switches on AliExpress that should be perfect for this kind of project
Gavin Walsh Great! Thanks!
Can we have the link to buy toggle switch thanks
Dr Zzs...how will the light work if all we have is a couple of wires from the switch to the light? Bit confused...Are you saying that the light is connected to the power source already with the switch acting as a breaker?
Hi DrZzs, I have a Sonoff BASIC RF R2 power v1.0 and it runs on a ESP8285 instead of a ESP8266 chip. The GPIO 14 hole is no longer there, but instead the have broke out the GPIO2. My question is, will your technique work with soldering to GPIO2 instead?
That was very helpful! Thanks!
But can you do this (and how) with touch switches, like Livolo switches?
I've used capacitive touch buttons as well. ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html
I don't know Livolo switches. You'd have to tell me more about them before I can be much help.
Ok I fixed my communications problem with my switches. I am trying to connect a sonoff to a regular toggle home switch. I am however having a hard time finding the IP address on my switches. The name changes on my modem and I can't find them the way you have it described.
Really Nice Video ... I have installed the sonoff same way as shown and its works fine... Can the sonoff with Tasmota & the 2 way switch ( manual & wifi as shown in the video ) work without a home assistant directly work with Blynk app through our phone??
Like how we can control a Wemos D1 mini through Blynk.
Thanks!I haven't used Blynk. Tasmota can receive commands via HTTP. So if Blynk can send http commands you can use the Tasmotized Sonoffs without a Home Assistant hub and without MQTT.
github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Commands#web
I got a wall switch and the box only has 2 wires, that means that there's no neutral wire, and the way the switch words is by splitting the hot wire in 2, how can I connect the Sonoff basic?
Despite what was said in the video, you can still make it work. Those two wires probably run directly to the box the light is mounted to. Leave the switch as-is, and remove the light fixture. Inside the two wires to your switch probably connect to hot/black and one side of the light fixture. You want the sonof to do that instead, and those two wires will connect to the sonof GPIO and ground. Basically it is exactly as he portrays, but the wires between the switch and module are just longer.
@@overkillthemighty thanks for your help
Question, I'm working on setting this up with the newer Sonoff Basic R2 RF Power V1.0 PCB that is being sold now. This PCB version doesn't have a pad or port for GPIO14. I understand that GPIO2 won't work because it causes a boot failure if pulled low. From what I've researched the only way to really do this with the new hardware is to utilize the RX port and then set it as you would GPIO14. The only issue with this is it stops you from being able to serial flash the board again, but as long as you have already flashed with Tazmota, you shouldn't need it as you can reflash OTA. Do you see anything wrong with this configuration or do you know of a better way? I'm somewhat new to HA but learning fast. I'm an IT pro who works on servers and switches all day anyway. But anything you can help with is very much appreciated. Thanks again!
Ya, and there's even a newer R3 version hitting the market this month. I haven't heard of a better solution than what you describe for using the R2's with an external switch.
Once you get Tasmota on there, you shouldn't ever need the serial ports again. I have several older sonoffs that I've used Rx for Temp/Humidity or even Motion sensors without an issue, so it should be fine.
Hopefully I'll get one of the R3's soon and we can start figuring out what we'll need to do to make it work best for our needs.
Good luck!
DrZzs, this really work! But I find it really difficult/ and dangerous to shove the sonoff in the junction/gang box when it is cluttered of stiff wires. Chances of wire getting loose and potentially short circuit and explode. It happened to me to be honest, I managed to get one in and it is working but just not at ease. I guess I will be just using my remaining sonoffs with extension cords.
Thank you for this very informative video.
All the best.
To be fair, electricians to just shove the wires into the box, and with the exception of the deepest boxes, the wiring pushes against the switch - especially for any rocker/dimmer style switch. There are standards defined by the IEC for how many of some gauge wire can be put into a box, and it accounts for the size of the box, along with a switch being mounted as well. Just rest assured... or don't maybe as it isn't a great way to wire a receptacle or switch, that what he did in the video is how most houses & commercial buildings are wired.
Do you have a schematic picture how it will look when you connect Sonoff to the light switch? It would be much easier to understand and visualize the connections. For normal light switch and for three way switch if possible, please.
I've got other videos that show that better.
3-way switch (2 videos)
ua-cam.com/video/EroQ_Eos1HY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html
Updated & Better Sonoff light switch video
ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html
3-way diagram:
www.dropbox.com/s/9mzqw3z2lwduovp/Screenshot%202018-04-23%2009.03.38.png?dl=0
The connection to the sonoff is the same for 3-way or normal switch. Power from the circuit goes into the sonoff Input, the lights are connected to the sonoff output. The switch is connected to GPIO 14 and Ground.
Hope that helps!
Where did you get that touch switch or how to make one and did you face the problem of state change in normal rocker switch 😯
Hi
Very nice and well made video.
I have light switch in my garage and i want to use the sonoff, but my the garage lights , can be switched on and off from two different switches (far from each other)
Just to clarify things a bit , these 2 switches are hard wired to the same board and the same lights , and they are used just for better accessibility , meaning , if you are at one end of the garage you can switch on , and when you are at the other end , you can switch off
My question , can i use a sonoff switch with this setup? Or maybe there are other switches that may work?
Hi. That sounds like a 3-way switch. There are a few ways to use a Sonoff or other device in that arrangement. ua-cam.com/video/EroQ_Eos1HY/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/mSENAY9_AlI/v-deo.html
There are off-the-shelf 3 way smart switches too, like this: amzn.to/2IbDFgS
Hope that helps!
Thanks, pretty straight info.
Great video.... Have you tried sonoff with 3 or 4 way switches? if so can you post a wiring diagram?
I'm working on that right now. That is the most popular request.
I think the solution is going to be in the Home Automation Hub, rather than hardware.
I'm hoping to get my setup working and get a video out soon. Give me another week or two.
Hi everyone, I have an electronic old fashion lock that works with key or with a pulse button that opens it automatically just when I push it. Is there any sonoff or way to make it smart also that it works with the key, the button but also from sonoff or any other device Smartphone app?
Great video!! but I have a question, if the switch is turned off physically, then can we still turn it on remotely via wifi??
yep! that's the beauty of it!
After getting inspired watching your videos, I have ordered a few sonoff basic R2 switches. GPIO14 pin is missing in the new switch, please let me know the soldering process to install this R2 switch in the wall. Note: I successfully tasmotised the sonoff.
Sathish use gpio 3, which is broken out as rx on the board.
When I shove the Sonoff board (no housing) into switchbox, the reset switch (GPIO 0?) is pressed against other wires in the tight box, and the relay is held low all the time. Is there a safe way to remove that switch, or the black rod that's attached to it? Or disable that switch temporarily in the Sonoff configuration?
Thanks for your video ! Can I use gpio14 as float detector sensor? The idea is to alert me( home assistant notification )when the sensor/s changes. For this proposal I don’t know if it’s better MCU or d1.
Hi Drzzs, I see that you are wrapping the sonoff with electric tape and putting behind the wall. Is it safe to wrap it? Wouldn't it have any heating issues?
well... not sure it's the best solution. There are 110v solder lines on the back. The board doesn't get hot so heating hasn't been an issue. I've moved to 3d printed boxes that fit the Sonoff Basic. But in theory Electrical tape should be able to provide adequate insulation. But ya, not the safest method for insulating. I wish I could get some really large heat shrink tubing. That would be a good solution.
Hi Drzzs, do you have any suggestion for the case that can fit behind the wall with the existing switches?
What will be power adapter recommendation for "1 Channel Inching /Self-Locking WiFi Wireless Switch 5V " . 5 Volt 1Amp or 5 Volt 2 Amp or 5 Volt 3Amp ?
Hey DrZzs, love the videos!
I believe I have the configuration you describe at 2:26. I know you said this will won't with the Sonoff Switch, but this was a almost a year ago. Do you know if anything has changed or am I out of luck? If not, can you suggest another switch?
I'm trying put this behind a standard flip switch. If this doesn't work I guess I'll have to resort to buying a bunch of smart switches to finish automating my lights.
Thanks!
I did show an example of how you could use a sonoff in that situation:
ua-cam.com/video/EroQ_Eos1HY/v-deo.html
Essentially, you have to put the sonoff (or other smart device) up in the ceiling where the lights are getting power. Then you use the wires that run from the lights to the switch to connect to GPIO-14 and ground.
There isn't a way to do it in the switch box.
I appreciate the response! I will give this a shot. Thanks Again!
Once again, love your Videos and I now have several sonoff's running tasmota. I have even placed them in my light switches. My next question is do you know if sonoff basic running tasmota could work with a dimmer switch? IE: I connect dimmer switch to GPIO14 & ground. Will it turn on/off and dim as well?
Thanks!
Unfortunately, no. The function of the GPIO pin is just on/off.
There are a lot of people requesting iTead make a "hackable" dimmer.
You'd have to put the dimmer after the sonoff on the main hot wire to the switch.
I'm on the hunt for a DIY smart dimmer. If you find one out in the wild let me know. If I find out how to make one you can be sure I'll make a video about it.
Thanks for the vid! So with the rocker switches, if the rocker is in the standard “on” position and you switch the light off in the app, if you switch the rocker to the standard “off” position, does that turn the light back on? So the rocker switch would essentially reverse the on/off positions when the light is switched on/off through the app?
Actually in the first diagram of single pole switch you can make the connection at the light junction box
yes, that is true.
I consider this even better. Here (Europe) we have smaller switch boxes that cannot accommodate a sonoff inside. The junction box has plenty of space.
My touch module is turning on and off repeatedly. It is module you used for the locks and showed in the live stream
Its the wifi driver included in the tasmota firmware´. In the github issues page mentioned that. It happens to me a lot of times
This is a great video thanks! A quick question. If the switch is hard-wired like this can the sonoff work in standalone? (ie if the wifi and broker is down would the physical switch still turn the light on as long as the sonoff has power or does it rely on a network connection? Understand for remote control wifi and broker would need to be online!
Yes, the sonoff can be disconnected from the network/mqtt and the physical switch will still control the lights.
That was awesome! I just found you via a HA Community thread. Subscribed! I am very new to HA (waiting on parts to arrive so I can start). I am looking to do a HASS.io and RasPI setup. I'll also have a Aeotech Z-Wave USB stick going on it. Would I still be able to use the Sonoff switch as you've described here with my hub setup? Thanks DrZzs
you sure will. in fact, if you haven't seen them yet I have a couple videos that are newer than this one that explain the basic setup for Hassio and tasmota, including mqtt. And, an update on the sonoff conversion to light switch.
ua-cam.com/video/c2IUIUnxjUY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html
Hi, This is really helpful. I have an additional question. Will flashing the Sonoff with Tasmodo prohibit it from using it with the original software or from connecting to Alexa/Google home?
After Tasmotizing you won't be able to use the eWeLink app. You will be able to use Alexa and Google home, but it will take a couple extra steps.
Here's my explanation of why I change the firmware. You don't have to change to Tasmota to use a Sonoff as a switch.
ua-cam.com/video/MyPpmDAThA4/v-deo.htmlm8s
This is so awesome. I don't suppose you know how this would work for the UK so you?
This is exactly what I've been after (it passes the "wife acceptance" test!)
There isn't much room behind UK switch plates so I may have to mess about a bit to get it to fit.
Peter Ebenezer Thanks! It should work in the UK.
Good luck.
Let me know if it doesn’t work.
Great video, dropped a like and subbed for the future, question or two for you. Where did you get the shnazzy push button switch from the beginning (not the 3D printed one)?? Any idea if this will work with Samsung SmartThings?? I saw your other comments on the possible safety implications so that’s already answered and if you could get it to work with Alexa in the future post a vid on that!! Thanks Boss!!
Thanks!
I'm planning on getting Alexa connected to Home Assistant. I've read how to do it, but haven't tackled it yet.
Here's a link to that switch: amzn.to/2yvHbdj
I actually found some I like better. Still shiny, but lower profile: amzn.to/2j5bkuz
I bought a SmartThings Hub too. Haven't even opened it yet, but it's on the vid-to-do list!
What gauge wire would be acceptable for that flexible wire - and is that what it's really called? No find on Amazon.
14g or even 16g rated for at least 120v (usually it'll be rated for like 600v, so that's not an issue). The stuff I used in this video was speaker wire but that' wasn't a smart choice, so don't use that.
something like this: amzn.to/2GJmP4H
seems kinda expensive though. If you have an old extension cord that size wire would be fine too.
Ok... along with the 3-way questions... I have a light switch that only controls the plugs for the lights in the room... but I want to make the room 3-way from another door, is there a switch that's battery powered that I can surface mount at the other door to turn the room "3-way" using a sonoff to replace the only switch???
Yes.
You can try following one of these:
ua-cam.com/video/ImVK5cGVrpQ/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/9X3ZIv1joLo/v-deo.html
But you also just gave me a great idea!!
Sonoff makes an SV (safe voltage) board. You could just connect that to a battery and stick it anywhere! Dude! That's a great idea!
The 3-way switch video is coming together, it'll be out monday. Then I think I'll do this battery powered Sonoff SV next!
You're a genius!!
So, what are the options if your whole house is done like example 1. only to wires coming down to the switch, one L, one.... also L, as soon you press the switch? Not sure if this is just old Yugoslavian practice, but it feels that today in Croatia most of us have houses set like this. A box a the top of the wall, and then just 2 wires coming down towards the switch.
it seems like a lot of houses in Europe are like that. Your choices are 1- Find a switch that doesn't require a Neutral wire (some do exist). Or if you use something like a Sonoff or a Shelly, you can put those in the ceiling where the power comes into the lights. A Shelly1 would probably be the best option.
amzn.to/2JymZhY
shelly.cloud/shelly1-open-source/
@@DrZzs tnx a lot, so basically no way to implement sonoff touch unless I can pull a neutral wire from the light all the way back down to the switch box.
ya, I'm afraid so. Sorry.
So am correct that this would convert a regular switch to a 3 way switch so that even if the toggle is off.. I can switch on with wifi?
would it be possible to use two simple switches to activate the same lamp?
Do you have to change the standard Sonoff firmware to get this to work? Also, once flashed, can you still use Alexa skill?
Are there not some electrical codes that have to be met? Does this meet the standard US ones?
That's a good question.
I found an answer on the Sonoff manufacturers website:
support.iteadstudio.com/support/discussions/topics/11000011177
Essentially they are not inspected or approved for in-wall installation. If you feel comfortable installing them in your own house, that's up to you. But if/when you sell your house to another person you should take them out. That's what I plan on doing, eventually.
Your insurance may also not cover your house burning down if it's due to an electrical fire and they find these in the walls. Something to consider
Scott Laxon I’ve heard that too. These sonoffs are not UL listed. As I understand it, any non-UL listed device that causes a fire would give an insurance company a reason not to pay. And they are HAPPY to find any reason not to pay.
The sonoffs are CE certified. So in Europe they are considered safe.
Everyone has to make their own decision on this. I feel safe using them in my switch boxes. But when I sell my house I will be taking them out so I’m not passing that risk on to the next owner.
I appreciate you bringing up the risk because everyone should know they aren’t UL listed. Hopefully someday they will be.
Thanks!
National Electric Code specifies not only the device be approved, but many other aspects of the installation. Violation - low voltage speaker wire not approved for in wall AC; Violation - wire splice connector not approved for application; violation - volume used in the duplex box exceeds specification. There are probably more code violations that one could come up with. And yes, if this causes a fire, you can be certain your insurance company isn't going to pay. I like these devices, but would never consider using them in this manner.
Ouch.
I'm sure you're right. I'm no master of the electrical code.
I sure don't want anyone getting hurt or causing a fire.
This is great! Can the sonoff basic be flashed by tuya convert? Thanks.
Dude, you are awesome! Following your tutorials, from flashing the Sonoff with Tasmota, before I was using an sketch for Arduino very very problematic, and only used for 3 devices, and all the lights of my house wired from a 16 relays board connected to my Raspberry. I didnt want to use Sonoff for lights, because I had a lot of problems and sometimes I could not make it work. I've just finished, I removed more than 150 meters of cable added to the electrical instalation of my home.. A disaster!, and installed 12 Sonoff Basic running Tasmota. I have only one question, when adding the switches to the configuration.yaml you use the parameter qos=1, would you explain what is this?. Before I was using qos=0, but really dont know why, it just worked (sometimes..). Looking in the HASS documentation, it says 'The maximum QoS level of the state topic. Default is 0 and will also be used to publishing messages.', but still dont understand. Thank you so much, congrats for the videos, and thank you, very very usefull for me. You won a new suscriptor.
Thanks!
I can't remember right now what the different qos levels mean/do exactly. Rob did a good job explaining QoS in one of his videos, but I can't remember which one it was. You might have to watch them all :)
ua-cam.com/channels/2gyzKcHbYfqoXA5xbyGXtQ.html
I basically did this same thing also. I used flexible wire also. Have you figured out how to control a light that has 2 separate light switches that can control it? example: Hallway light switch on both ends of the hall
You mean a 3-way switch. No I haven't solved that one yet.
Here's Pete's video that is something like that with Sonoff Basics running ESPeasy.
ua-cam.com/video/xQltSHSVleI/v-deo.html
It's on my list of things to figure out. Hopefully I can get to it soon. I have a lot of 3-way switches that need to get "smart"
If you do it before me, let me know how it goes.
Yeah I have a few as well that i need to do . I was hoping I could set a sonoff on each switch, and let HA keep them in sync so the state stays the same on both switches. I saw Petes video, but Tasmota is confusing enough, espeasy is rocket science... I have so many project but my limitations is programming and coding. I still havnt figured out how the heck to do automation.....
It's easy. A second Sonoff without connection to the lights, but a virtual connection that switches the first Sonoff wireless (that's the reason we use the Sonoffs :) ). The code depends on your home automation sw.
Funny, we've lived in a wired hardware world for so long, we look for wired hardware solutions first.
So, the second non-light-connected Sonoff, triggers the first Sonoff to toggle, and bingo, 3-way switch.
I'll have to try that out tomorrow.
Thanks!
Bernhard Walter I'm using HA . Do I have to use another sonoff in the wall not connected? I have a few esp8266-01 laying around can I use them ?
I have single pole light switches, so, as you stated, "I'm in trouble and need to find another switch." Do you have any idea what other switch or method I could use?
Craig Durant What you’ll have to do is get into the box behind your light. That should be where the main power is coming in. You can put the sonoff in there, then use the wires going to your wall switch as the GPIO 14 and ground wires.
So mains power goes to the input on the sonoff. Then the output from the sonoff goes to the light. Then the wires from the light box to the switch will connect to GPIO 14 and ground.
That should do it.
Good Luck!
Hey DrZzs, can I hook up the sonoff so that it has constant power and has the switch but does nothing? My house wiring was weird on a few three way switches so I have two switches that do nothing at the moment, I'd like to just have the sonoff report to home assistant the switch was turned 'on' so that I can create some automations to act like it was still part of a threeway switch.
Hey DrZzs - I love your videos. I just found your site a few weeks ago and i've started to tinker. I took your advice on getting flexible AWG 12 wiring to tie into the romex wires, it does seem to be a lot easier. However, how and the heck did you fit 12gauge wires into those tiny relays on the sonoff basic? Thanks!
Thanks!ya, sorry about that. 12g is a little too big. I thinned it at the ends by trimming some of the strands with wire clips so it would fit.
I've learned a lot since that video, and I don't use 12g wire anymore. 14g, or even 16g is enough. I've even used the solid stuff, it's not too bad.
Have you watched the Zzonoff video yet? It's got some updated info and an improved method for Sonoffitizing a light switch. If you haven't seen it, check it out!
ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html
I want to do something like this. Do you think this would still be covered by insurance in the case of a fire?
No. I don't expect it would be covered.
If you want full UL listed devices like this you'll have to get the $30 variety.
I think your best bet is to do some things to make sure (or as sure as possible) that you won't have a fire because of this device. I'm finishing up a video that I'll have out this coming Monday about exactly that.
The #1 thing to do is to add a 10 amp fuse to the Line-in wire. You can get a wired fuse holder and 10 amp fuse for about $1.50. That'll go a long way toward avoiding ever having a problem with overloading and fire.
The other thing is to make sure you aren't overloading the Sonoff by calculating the load you're putting on the device. For example if you have five 60w light bulbs at 110v that's about 3 amps. (w/v=a) Keep the load below 10 amps (which would be 20 bulbs!) and you should be fine.
Hope that helps.
Is there a way to do this and use it with Alexia and to do it do I have to make a home assistant hub that deals with it. I have no problem with the coding but do not want to not be able to manually turn the light on and off.
Yes, flash it as he said, add it via ESPHome or as a normal entity via MQTT, and it will be discovered by Alexa. HA works as a broker at this point, so you can "pre-configure" all of your entities, whether they exist or not, and Alexa will discover them.
I see why many websites say you are the best , is it possible to hold the so it turn of in say 3 minutes , and a tap as on / off
yes. There is a switchmode setting it tasmota that enables the "hold" function. I did a video about it (I think I covered hold...)
ua-cam.com/video/kiXAGkyqFeU/v-deo.html
That should help :)
Nice video,
Can you still use the sonoff with Alexa?
Can you configure it to work with apple homekit and still work?
good question
There's an option to have the sonoff (with Tasmota) emulate a Hue Bridge or a Belkin WeMo.
Looks like some folks have had trouble getting alexa to detect Tasmotized devices, but seems most can eventually get it to work:
github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/596
Let me know if you get it working. I have an original echo and 5 echo dots in our house, but haven't gotten around to including them in my Home Automation set-up yet.
So many projects, so little time.
To anyone reading this after Feb 2019, yes, the Sonoff can still be used with Alexa/Homekit/Google via HA or OpenHab, or your own "skill" as Amazon calls them.
Great video!
If I want to do the same for sonoff th16, where is the GPIO 14 and ground on the circuit?
Thanks!
What are you trying to do exactly? Are you planning to use the Temp/Humidity sensor and a push button?
www.itead.cc/sonoff-th.html
www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_TH_10/16
You may be able to sort out where the pins are from the schematic on the wiki page.
Unfortunately, I don't find the TH on the Tasmota page. It is a supported device, but doesn't look like anyone has traced out the pins and/or uploaded more info about that exact model.
One of the comments on the sonoff-th page says the 4pin jack uses gpio 4 and 14. I'm guessing by "jack" they mean where the Temp/Humidity sensor plugs in. So if you're using the sensor they send with it, you probably don't want to use gpio14 for a button. If you're planning on using Tasmota with it you could use one of the serial pins as a button after you've flashed it.
Sorry I'm not more help. That's not a model I've used before.
Good Luck!
2:20 problem is a easy to fix problem i put the sonoff inside the light fixture and i use the wire from the switch for gpio14 and ground
yes, you're right! I'm going to show that example in the maker faire display. I wasn't thinking of putting the sonoff in the ceiling (with the lights), but yes, that would work in that situation.
Thanks!
This rocks!..... Thanks!
When you set these up with momentary switches, what happens during wifi outages? Will the switch still toggle on/off as intended or will the lights only turn on if you keep the button pressed?
I think it still works with the momentary switch during WiFi outages. Switchmode is something internal for the Tasmota firmware you are running on the device. The device does not need to connect to anything to get this information.
One exception is if you change the switchTopic from 0(default)to 1. Under switchTopic 1, when the switch changes state, it sends a MQTT message to the topic and the device receives the command to change state. During WiFi outages, there is no MQTT to connect to.
This makes me wonder if you could use a sonoff dual to control two light switch I have lots of places where I want to control to lights ( outside garage lights and mailbox light they are in the same switch box and I'm not sure that two sperate sonoff baisic will fit
Steven Reed Sonoff makes boards with multiple relays that would do what you need. I haven’t used one yet but I have the same situation so I’ll get to it eventually.
2 Channel:
ITead Sonoff Dual Channel WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Works with Amazon Alexa, Control two home appliances with APP,remote control Appliance Controller for DIY Smart Home www.amazon.com/dp/B06XST8B83/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HYffAbKACKAEB
4 channel:
Sonoff 4CH Smart Switch 4 Channel Din Rail Mounting Wi-Fi Switch ,Wireless Remote Independently Control 4 Devices or Home Appliances, Works with Amazon Alexa Google Home www.amazon.com/dp/B075H9KPRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BXffAbMYTB5M9
Hello Dr.
I have first type of wiring just 2 wires coming from to switch. Does it mean I can not connect to son off at all?
No, you can still use a sonoff, you just have to place the sonoff in the ceiling, or wherever the power comes in from the main panel. Like this:
ua-cam.com/video/EroQ_Eos1HY/v-deo.html
@DrZzs How do I do the same with Sonoff basic R2?
They replaced GPIO14 with "Key" pin ..
There is also another better method using existing household wall switch! You will need to buy an overpriced chip solder it to Sonoff, you will not need to flash your Sonoff and you can keep using eWelink , if you wish...
www.ebay.com/itm/E77-Wall-Switch-Connectivity-Module-for-Sonoff-Basic-New-R2-1-Ch-Wifi-IOT-Switch/273576948115?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
lebhile-com.shopclues.com/e77-wall-switch-connectivity-module-for-sonoff-basic-1-channel-wifi-iot-switch..-140217634.html
Seems like the new batch of Sonoff Basics don't have the GPIO14 header.
My latest didn't, but the pad is still available from the underside of the board.
Use TX in place of GPIO14
Doctor, where did you find a single button switch plate? A white one like you have???
I just drilled a whole the right size for the button in a blank faceplate.
Brilliant! LOL
Couldn't you keep the same firmware and just solder the momentary switch to where the stock button is?
yes, you sure can. The reason for using new firmware is to get the Sonoff communicating with Home Assistant (or your home automation hub of choice).
With the default software, you can only control them from the eWeLink app.
You talk a few times about flashing firmware. Which firmware did you use for this? Can I connect it with Home Assistant?
Hi,
Yes I flash all my sonoffs (and even some D1 minis) with Tasmota.
ua-cam.com/video/c2IUIUnxjUY/v-deo.html
The main reason I do that is to be able to control the devices in Home Assistant.
Hope that helps!
Hello DrZzs. Please tell me how does it work with rocker switch? :) you can turn it off by wifi but to turn it on again with rocker switch you how to switch it off and on again, am i right?
TheDrunkenPL Nope. Thankfully you’re wrong 😎
It doesn’t matter which method you use to turn it off or on, the next method you use will turn it to whichever state it isn’t already in. Just like a 3 way switch.
It works like you hope it would.
Hope that helps!
Please don't use automotive 12v barrel connectors (the blue ones) they are not rated for 120v. They could heat up with the current flowing through them causing the blue plastic to melt and possibly catch fire inside your wall. Same for the speaker wire used to connect to the output of the Sonoff it is not rated for 120v and could cause a fire risk. Use proper 120v wire (either salvage it or cut up a extension cord) and use wire nuts to make splices.
You are absolutely right. That was not very smart of me.
In my haste to finish the project I just used what I had on hand.
Thank you for bringing it up so others don't do the dumb thing that I did.
great video.. makes it look easy
ha! thanks. It really isn't too bad. It wasn't as hard as I expected it to be.
DrZzs I am waiting for my order to arrive so I can try it out
hello dr. i really love ur vids!! i want to sk , are the sonoff still working after u taped them and etc..??
thx
they actually are. I wouldn't say it's the best way to do it, but yes, it's still working.
Hi DrZzs. I`m using a sonoff with a "normal" switc in my room (Thanks for the tutorial!). It has been working flawlessly for two weeks. But today Im having some trouble, when I use the switch, it takes several seconds to turn on/off the light (when I use the button in the web page it responds inmediately). Maybe Its necessary/recommended to restart the sonoff every week?
I have had some strange behavior from the sonoffs occasionally.
I think the wires from the switch to GPIO14 might be picking up enough interference to not function properly. Good news is there's a fix. I didn't know about it when I made this video, but I'm planning to include it in another video soon.
Here's the instructions if you want to try it. Scroll down under "Electrical Considerations".
github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Expanding-Sonoffs
Hope that fixes it!
OK I lied the light isn't coming on the state just changes for a second in home assistant then it goes back to off I already have my sonoff mounted in the wall how can I access the tasmota menu via wifi I do see the device in my router so it is connected to my network, any help much appreciated. So close yet so far away have a feeling I have a name wrong some where, whats bet way to debug.
Great Video. What gauge wire did you use for the pig tail? I am trying to use 14 Stranded THHN, it is still hard to bend.
Thanks!
I used 16g. I wish there was a better solution for that. Like the kind of connectors on some light switches where you just push the solid copper wire in and it holds tight. Wish iTead would use that for the sonoffs.
Totally agree. I have been sending emails, feature requests etc. No response. Plus wish they reduce the profile for sonoff to easily fit in the standard 1 gang box. What is your experience with wrapping in electrical tape?
ha. well, no fires yet.
I was surprised my brother-in-law who is an electrical engineer didn't have an issue with that. It does make it smaller.
I started using more push-buttons and not re-using the regular rocker switch. That makes for a lot more space in the box, and I can leave the case on it. I just drill a hole in the case for the switch wires to come out.
I tried to put in 3 x 2 x 3 1/2" box with 3 14x2 wires in it. It was way overcrowded. I tried your approach, still it would not fit with this many wires and I saw this on electrical code and potential risk, hence pulled out to see if there are other options.
inspectapedia.com/electric/Electrical_Outlet_Box_Types.php
120V 15A you must use 14 gauge or thicker
Awsome thanks. Any way you could do a other video tutorial explaining how to program it as a 3-way switch with mqtt and home assistant
Mike Vidal I’ve have a few people ask for that. It’s on my list. I’ll try to get to it soon.
Yes do that please. And a two way switch if possible.
In case you guys didn't see this:
ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html
I did a 3-way switch video.
There's another way to do it too. I'll get that video out when I can.
Good Luck!
idk why but you remind me so hard to Hank from Breaking bad haha
Does it matter what gauge wire I use to solder the switch to the GPIO pins on the board? I soldered on some female headers to make flashing a little easier, so I'm wondering if I should remove those or if I can get away with male pins and small gauge wire coming from the switch.
it doesn't matter really. those are 3v wires carrying almost no current. I've used wires I salvaged from old phone cords :)
@@DrZzs That's what I assumed, but me and mains aren't the best of friends, so just double checking. ;) GREAT tutorial. Thanks so much for the help.
I'm like a snake charmer with mains power. I let it bite me every now and then so I'll build up an immunity ;p
Is there a way to use a momentary switch with an led, so when the room lights are off, the switch is lit?
I'm sure there is. I haven't done it so I don't have the details to give you. I would expect you could power the led on the button from some gpio pin on the sonoff, then set it so that pin is ON when the relay is OFF.
Great videos! I have followed your tutorials exactly and currently I use the emulator function as a wemo to work with my phone and Alexa. Everything works perfect. Is there a way I can hook up one to a 3-way switch?(US definition) is it as simple as putting one sonoff at each switch and changing the configuration to switch 02? Any response is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Thanks!
I have a video about doing 3-way switches. My way isn't the only way, but I did pretty much what you suggest. I put one sonoff connected to the lights directly, then ran power to the other sonoffs using the 3-way wires that were already running between the switch boxes. Then just set the other sonoffs to control the first via MQTT.
ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html
Read the comments on that video. Someone said there's a way to do it in Tasmota instead of through a Home Assistant Automation. I haven't changed mine, but that seems like an easier and maybe more reliable method.
Hope that helps!
Thank you very much for the reply! I will check it out!
Hi, I really liked your videos for the sonoff switch. Knowing these are not ul certified do you feel safe putting them in your walls long-term ?
drbent14 That’s a good question. I’ve certainly thought about it. I plan on living in this house for 20 years, but when it does come time to sell it I’ll have to discuss it with the buyer.
I feel safe. But there’s probably some liability if you sell the house to someone else.
That’s an issue in the DIY smart home community that we’ll have to tackle at some point.
drbent14
can you please explain how to install Sonoff with rotary dimmer switch if I use EWeLink app
evaldas raisutis I can’t say I know how to do that.
It probably isn’t possible to use a dimmer with the sonoff. As far as I know the only function of the external switch pins is to trigger the relay. Connecting a dimmer to it won’t give dimmer functions. Sorry.
Maybe someday they’ll make a dimmable sonoff. Or maybe someone else has a solution I’m not aware of. That sure is possible.
There are several videos out there where folks test the device heat buildup with various loads. Given wrapping the device in electrical tape vs. the heat resistant (up to a few hundred degrees) case, it would probably be wise to only do an in-wall DIY installation in low load situations, e.g. 100W would be rare, but there's always someone who would try this with a huge 10 bulb X 100W situation and 3-4 of the devices all crammed into the same switch box.
Thanks for the insight! That's great info.
If I connect the main power to the Sonoff input, the light to the output, and a rocker switch to the GPIO and ground, will the switch just toggle the lights, or would I have to switch the light to off and then on again to turn the lights on using the switch?
yes, the switch just toggles the lights. It's really like a 3-way switch setup. The button on the sonoff (connected to your rocker switch) acts like one 3-way switch, then the MQTT/Home Assistant/WebUI control acts like the other 3-way switch. So no matter which method you use to turn it on/off, the other method (or using that same method again) will toggle the lights to the state they are not in.
Basically, it works like you hope it would.
If you're trying this for the first time check out the newer version of this video:
ua-cam.com/video/B38e1HAMUXs/v-deo.html
and if you don't have Home Assistant set up yet, here's a video for that:
ua-cam.com/video/c2IUIUnxjUY/v-deo.html
Good Luck!
Let me know if you get stuck along the way!
Will this work the same way with a standard switch and with the regular sonoff firmware instead kd tasmota and home assistant?
Have you tried configuring Sonoff Duo? I believe it can control two lights independently. Is there a version of Tasmoto available for Sonoff Duo? Do you have guideline to control individual switch from tasmoto duo. Any help would be appreciated
I have a video about the Dual. Check my channel page. It's in there somewhere.
@@DrZzs thanks
Your video is great but I had a question. What about the third red wire that goes from the switch ti the light?
nathaniel blakley Thanks!
If you have a 3rd red wire then you have a 3-way switch situation.
I just finished a video for that. I’d link it here but I’m on my phone. If you go to my channel page and the video tab it’ll be there.
Sweet ty for the quick reply. I'll check it out
ok, back at the computer. Here's a link to the 3-way video
ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html
That is just one solution. There is another.
ua-cam.com/video/l-CM8JQmges/v-deo.html
I haven't tried this second solution yet, but I will soon and I'll get another video together about it. It'll probably take a few weeks for me to get that one out. So many projects so little time!
Hi DrZzs !! first: You are a genius buddy!
I have a question to ask you I hope you can help me, I have a common 4 channel wall switch, to light 4 different lighting groups. I want to put 2 double sonoffs inside the wall box, since it takes up less space. can i connect two switches as you did in the minute 1:54 (soldering GPIO 14 and ground) ?
Thanks!
If you’re using the Sonoff Dual (R2 version) there are dedicated pins for two switches all set with headers even. So yes you can have 2 switches.
Hope that helps
I've found that using 2 Sonoff basics take up less space than using a Sonoff Dual.
Probably true. I tend to believe Chris. He's a smart guy.
I see you soldered the two wires to GPIO14 and GND for the light switch connection. Since I already have a 5-piece female header strip soldered onto the Sonoff (like a lot of people will have after flashing), can I just use two male jumper cables and cut one end to screw to the switch, or are jumper connections not recommended for a permanent solution? Rewatching your tutorial a few times, I noticed you did not solder any header to flash it, just inserted jumperst into the holes... so maybe I'll try that for next one so that I don't have to unsolder it.
You can totally use jumpers for your switch wires. I've done it that way on other boards. They hold pretty tight.
Ya, I soldered a header on the first couple I flashed, then realized it wasn't necessary and I could save some time.
There is a way to flash them without touching the board.
github.com/mirko/SonOTA
I'm working on that video right now. Should be done next week.
Sweet! I'll definitely be using it then since it will take a few weeks for new parts to come anyway. Thanks for your work on this.
Hi, did you ever make it through OTA ?
yes!
ua-cam.com/video/ONFhXM5R-t4/v-deo.html
The problem now is the newer firmware on the Sonoffs (ver 1.6) makes it impossible to do OTA :(
If you get some older Sonoffs with older firmware you can still do OTA. But those are getting harder to find.
Followed last video but keep getting the following error. Can you help.
Arduino: 1.8.5 (Windows 10), Board: "Generic ESP8266 Module, 80 MHz, 40MHz, DOUT, 115200, 1M (64K SPIFFS), ck, Disabled, None"
Build options changed, rebuilding all
C:\arduino-1.8.5-windows\arduino-1.8.5\portable\packages\esp8266\tools\xtensa-lx106-elf-gcc\1.20.0-26-gb404fb9-2/bin/xtensa-lx106-elf-ar: unable to rename 'C:\Users\budlyte\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_build_499414/arduino.ar'; reason: File exists
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Generic ESP8266 Module
Hi DrZzs; great video, is there a way you can make a two or three way switch out of the sonoffs?
I certainly can!
How's this:
ua-cam.com/video/GEJCk-Dr3BQ/v-deo.html
Working on another method using just one sonoff. Gonna take a few weeks to get that one done though.
Good Luck!
fantastic, many thanks
Nice job, well explained. Wish I could find a good way to compare Tasmota Vs ESPeasy. Been using ESPEasy so I'd like to know the difference.
Thanks!
I've got ESPeasy on my list of things to try. When I do get to it I'll do a comparison with Tasmota.
They're the same more or less.
Yea, I'm kinda getting that. Seeing as how I use these devices with Node Red and Mosquitto (Raspberry Pi) anything that provides MQTT and http will pretty much do anything I need. I am finding though, that the Rules feature in ESPEasy does allow me to offload the fixed, local control stuff to the unit level which is kinda nice. Not sure if Tasmota has a similar local control capability. Gotta say, not being a programmer, no longer having to deal with C++ has made my Home Automation and hobby stuff a lot more fun. I can concentrate more on hardware which is more my wheelhouse. So glad people worked so hard to develop these programs.
ESP Easy is highly configurable (usually without re-compiling) and was designed to work on any esp8266 based hardware, which also means it has more of a learning curve than tasmota. In the device itself, one can setup timers and actions that do not require a home automation system at all. For example, want a switch that turns itself on when some condition is met, say a certain time of day or an IR detector firing or a certain temperature being reached, then turns itself off after 30 minutes or some other condition, ESP Easy can do that without even being connected to Wifi. That being said, tasmota has grown a lot. Many things it couldn't do a year or so ago are now possible so it's hard to say which will be better down the road. For simply interfacing to a remote light switch or getting the temperature from a standard sensor to a home automation system, tasmota is easier. For those that are making custom devices or coming up with unique uses based on the esp8266, ESP Easy is going to be a more flexible choice.
Hi Dr Zzs, Awesome Video! I've managed to flash Tasmota onto my Sonoff and get it all setup in HA and can turn the light on and off with no issues! Winning! However I'm having issues with the push button on the sonoff itself, a toggle switch connected to GPIO14 and even the web UI. The configuration module for GPIO14 is set to 09 Switch1 as instructed but when any of these is triggered (button, switch or Web UI) the state only momentarily changes... I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Please Help!
try changing the switchmode in the console.
Here's a link to the Tasmota page that talks about switchmode. I'm a little concerned when you say it even switches only momentarily when you toggle in the webUI. Try different switchmodes and see if that does anything. If not we'll try and come up with something else.
Hey DrZzs! Thanks for the quick reply, I tried all that last night, every single switchmode to no avail. I think it might have something to do with RF interference and the connected switch wires. I’m going to try putting a low pass filter on and see what happens.....
Hey DrZzs, After some more component isolation I have discovered the following: the low pass filter does nothing to fix my Sonoff's! When a Sonoff is connected to its own dedicated circuit it works fine, switch, button web UI and HA, as it did when testing before inserting into the wall. One Sonoff connected and it works fine inside the wall. The issue begins when 2 or more Sonoff's are connect to a circuit. Each switch plate has wires coming from the circuit breaker however these are split into three separate circuits for the lights within the house. Effectively when I add one or more Sonoff's to the one circuit they are connected in parallel and this is when the issue begins. Any ideas of where to go from here? I have no idea why the input from the circuit breaker would effect the Sonoff at all. Many thanks