Agree! Same here - kit build. ---- Troy, would appreciate recommendation on electronics. Will be using Futaba radio/rcvr. That aside, very interested in recommendations.
@@percivale6511 At first I had the steering knuckles swapped so watch their orientation and reach of the steering stops as you build it. Otherwise it drives really smooth and has been fun! I think the 2.0 has a lot of great improvements tbh. I won a red version MD1.0 in a raffle this summer so I would have probably updated to the sd2.0 or gone with an RDX to try. Drift is like crawlers, they tend to multiply :)
@@Andy_Yates That awesome, TY for the heads up on that! I picked up the Datson 510 Wagon Wide Body for mine! :) Can't wait to airbrush it with Createx Pearls!
Troy thank you for all the videos the information you provide is amazing. But at the same time I'm broke now because I've been buying all these drift cars😂 I just ordered the RDS I'm going to do the settings that you suggested and then let the nephews use that one and then I ordered myself a yokomo SD 2.0 kit with a Datsun 510 wagon wide body. I'm very excited to get home in January so that I can Tinker with all of this as I'm an over-the-road truck driver thank you again for the great content
@@RoadsideRC 🤣, I ended up picking up the hobbywing dr-10 drift setup for the yokomo but I picked up that budget set up for the ready to run and then both of them are getting the Rev D servos and the Futaba g y d 470 gyros
Thank's for Sharing You're Knowledge and Settings for the Front and Rear Tuning 😃👉 I'm Glad You Got This Spec Competition Redcat Racing Drift Car to SLIDE ON with Troy 👍😎👍 AOAH 🙏 Stay Safe and Play Healthy Brother 🏁💯🏁
@@RoadsideRC Hey Troy! I'm doing the settings now, just wanted to give you an update that I may have found that steering issue, on the coupler for the Gyro where there steering servo plugs into the stock Gyro, the 3 pins that go into that coupler from the Gyro side the middle pin was not completely set, I could slide it in and out.... I just pushed it all the way in just now I will report back to see if that fixed my issue :), TY again for all the help! I'd be lost without your videos on this!
Youre a GOD!!!!! These settings work SOOOO WELLLLL! I am doing figure 8's Non-Stop now! I also dropped the front shock oil to 10 wt. (100CST) @RoadsideRC
@RoadsideRC Troy, when replacing the steering servo in the RDS I noticed the reve-D and the injora are the same size, but the hexfly has a bigger belly where the servo horn attaches, what is your fix for this? Just mount and readjust steering? I tried mounting the servo from the underside of the mount instead of the top side but not enough clearance. With the new servos it holds the steering rack slightly higher (5mm ish)
Do you have recommendations for a set of springs that fit the rds shocks? These rtr springs are stiff as hell and don’t weight transfer at all. I’ve tried everything to unbind everything in the suspension and open the shocks to trim away any burrs on the diaphragm but nothing is working. I run unprepped but smooth skatepark style concrete and I need the weight shift to smooth out my transitions and generally make the car feel more nimble. Thanks in advance!
I found all of the resistance was in the ball cups. Once I freed it up, the shocks worked great. I only swapped springs once I modded the car and removed weight. I used ReveD springs.
Hey Troy. I've watched your Yokomo vs MST vs Redcat drift video and i'm still on the fence on this car as an RTR to tide me over until my Reve D RDX comes into stock. How are you liking it now compared to the MST after using it for a couple of months? I think i'd consider swapping out the gyro and servo almost immediately on it, but that's just my initial thoughts from watching videos. What are your thoughts?
Hi there!!! Honestly, I have still been driving the RTR 100% stock. Stock shocks, servo, gyro - I even out the stock controller back on it!!! The only way I would suggest upgrading anything on it is if you were also going to use those parts on the RDX eventually.
Question for someone new into this. When I start my rc, my tires are turning right a little bit and I can’t seem to understand how to get them aligned more straight without the steering trim on the controller doing it. It’s causing me to turn less going left, but let’s me turn more going right. What should I do?
Open Ackerman will give you less aggressive drift angles. The trailing wheel checks your speed a bit as well, but makes it easier to transition in tighter tracks. The key is finding the balance for your driving style/track layout.
Curious Troy, at what angle from center is your lead wheel at maximum contact patch? And when that lead wheel is at zero camber, what angle from center is your trailing wheel at?
@@RoadsideRC just something I’ve found to be a decent starting point regardless of surface. Just curious what you land on (for science)… I’ve found I like 58-60 lead at zero camber with the trailing at around 5or6 degrees less, ~53-55 (I.e. of open ackerman).
I'm building the new SD 1.0 kit as I type this but I really appreciate the discussion on alignment and how you approach it. Much appreciated👍
Glad it was helpful Andy!!!
Agree! Same here - kit build. ---- Troy, would appreciate recommendation on electronics. Will be using Futaba radio/rcvr. That aside, very interested in recommendations.
How did the SD 1.0 turn out? I just received the SD 2.0 and am super excited to build it
@@percivale6511 At first I had the steering knuckles swapped so watch their orientation and reach of the steering stops as you build it. Otherwise it drives really smooth and has been fun! I think the 2.0 has a lot of great improvements tbh. I won a red version MD1.0 in a raffle this summer so I would have probably updated to the sd2.0 or gone with an RDX to try. Drift is like crawlers, they tend to multiply :)
@@Andy_Yates That awesome, TY for the heads up on that! I picked up the Datson 510 Wagon Wide Body for mine! :) Can't wait to airbrush it with Createx Pearls!
This chassis is far beyond its time already. Calling it a competition drift car is spot on.
Troy thanks for showing how to adjust the settings it help so much car feels better… 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Awesome! Glad it helped!
The marks on the work surface with the pencil! Genius!
...or lazy.
I do repaint it frequently. :)
Really cool Troy I love how you tune things up to get the best performance👊
Thanks!
Stoked to see some running footage after the tune 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Coming soon!
Troy thank you for all the videos the information you provide is amazing. But at the same time I'm broke now because I've been buying all these drift cars😂 I just ordered the RDS I'm going to do the settings that you suggested and then let the nephews use that one and then I ordered myself a yokomo SD 2.0 kit with a Datsun 510 wagon wide body. I'm very excited to get home in January so that I can Tinker with all of this as I'm an over-the-road truck driver thank you again for the great content
Awesome! Glad I can be a bad influence! ;)
@@RoadsideRC 🤣, I ended up picking up the hobbywing dr-10 drift setup for the yokomo but I picked up that budget set up for the ready to run and then both of them are getting the Rev D servos and the Futaba g y d 470 gyros
I really like your settings
I enjoy even more now with my RedCat ))
Thank you
Awesome! Glad I could help!!!
Thank's for Sharing You're Knowledge and Settings for the Front and Rear Tuning 😃👉 I'm Glad You Got This Spec Competition Redcat Racing Drift Car to SLIDE ON with Troy 👍😎👍 AOAH 🙏 Stay Safe and Play Healthy Brother 🏁💯🏁
Thanks Larry!
Going to try these settings today!
Great! I hope they work well for you.
@@RoadsideRC Hey Troy! I'm doing the settings now, just wanted to give you an update that I may have found that steering issue, on the coupler for the Gyro where there steering servo plugs into the stock Gyro, the 3 pins that go into that coupler from the Gyro side the middle pin was not completely set, I could slide it in and out.... I just pushed it all the way in just now I will report back to see if that fixed my issue :), TY again for all the help! I'd be lost without your videos on this!
Youre a GOD!!!!! These settings work SOOOO WELLLLL! I am doing figure 8's Non-Stop now! I also dropped the front shock oil to 10 wt. (100CST) @RoadsideRC
@@percivale6511 Glad to hear it!!!
@RoadsideRC Troy, when replacing the steering servo in the RDS I noticed the reve-D and the injora are the same size, but the hexfly has a bigger belly where the servo horn attaches, what is your fix for this? Just mount and readjust steering? I tried mounting the servo from the underside of the mount instead of the top side but not enough clearance. With the new servos it holds the steering rack slightly higher (5mm ish)
Loveing this car I'm getting one as soon as I can get it in Canada 🇨🇦
Great! Hope you enjoy it!
great you are able to tweak the settings mate
*always a full watch📺💯Au👍thumbs up*
That is right!
Awesome video. When trimming the front knuckles for the steering, did you have a problem with them finding up or getting stuck oversteering.
I only trimmed the bottom of the knuckle. It leaves the top as still a little bit of a stopper.
@Roadside RC when I cut off the bottom, felt like my steering was getting locked up.
@@henrycastaneda7785that happened to me aswell. Did you figure out what the problem was ?
Please do a video on how to change motor position. I’m just taking out screws and still can’t get it to move.
There are 3 screws that hold the motor mount to the transmission - just remove those and it should be free.
Do you have recommendations for a set of springs that fit the rds shocks? These rtr springs are stiff as hell and don’t weight transfer at all. I’ve tried everything to unbind everything in the suspension and open the shocks to trim away any burrs on the diaphragm but nothing is working. I run unprepped but smooth skatepark style concrete and I need the weight shift to smooth out my transitions and generally make the car feel more nimble. Thanks in advance!
I found all of the resistance was in the ball cups. Once I freed it up, the shocks worked great. I only swapped springs once I modded the car and removed weight.
I used ReveD springs.
Hey Troy. I've watched your Yokomo vs MST vs Redcat drift video and i'm still on the fence on this car as an RTR to tide me over until my Reve D RDX comes into stock. How are you liking it now compared to the MST after using it for a couple of months? I think i'd consider swapping out the gyro and servo almost immediately on it, but that's just my initial thoughts from watching videos. What are your thoughts?
Hi there!!!
Honestly, I have still been driving the RTR 100% stock. Stock shocks, servo, gyro - I even out the stock controller back on it!!!
The only way I would suggest upgrading anything on it is if you were also going to use those parts on the RDX eventually.
Question for someone new into this. When I start my rc, my tires are turning right a little bit and I can’t seem to understand how to get them aligned more straight without the steering trim on the controller doing it. It’s causing me to turn less going left, but let’s me turn more going right. What should I do?
Are you talking about the Redcat RDS specifically?
At 6 :52, how did you remove the ball studs mounting point?
Pop the ball cup off.
Then unscrew the stud. I think I used a wheel wrench, but don't fully remember.
That open ackerman is better for beginners right?
Not sure. That is the claim, but I found the car harder to drive and more twitchy.
Open Ackerman will give you less aggressive drift angles. The trailing wheel checks your speed a bit as well, but makes it easier to transition in tighter tracks. The key is finding the balance for your driving style/track layout.
Great video and information
Glad you liked it
Curious Troy, at what angle from center is your lead wheel at maximum contact patch? And when that lead wheel is at zero camber, what angle from center is your trailing wheel at?
Oh man.
I'd have to get out there and measure. I don't really know.
@@RoadsideRC just something I’ve found to be a decent starting point regardless of surface. Just curious what you land on (for science)… I’ve found I like 58-60 lead at zero camber with the trailing at around 5or6 degrees less, ~53-55 (I.e. of open ackerman).
Still waiting for that FTX 1/7 review
😁😁👍👍