On top of the rest of the video I really appreciate you going over what each of the alignment settings are. 6 months ago when I started hobby I had to look up different videos and/or articles to learn all this and sometimes it was hard to get context. This is the comprehensive guide for alignment. Thank you!
Thank you I really appreciate that and I’m glad that people are already finding this video helpful! Means the world to me so thank you, I really like making these videos for you all!
This is by far the best instructional video i have watched. I actually stopped drifting because i just didn’t understand what my car was doing. I would get 3 different explanations from people at my track. They are very smart, but i need it dummy level. Yours is the perfect blend of if you do this, this happens. And then follow up by showing us how the wheels are reacting. Thank you!
I really appreciate you for this video. I’m into this hobby for a bit over two years and learned a lot from you. I can’t wait to test it at my local track 😊
Great information, been drifting in a club for more than 2 years. My settings are pretty close to yours. Also the reason behind those settings, from my own understanding and feel are on point with what you said.
That’s awesome and good to know we have similar outcomes with similar setups! Been thinking about how I can make a universal spreadsheet with all my findings.
Any experience or knowledge with the TK rear camber link set up? I think it would minimize the fulcrum, making for a stiff setup that doesn’t change much under load? I haven’t found any theory on the TK topic, only it’s a personal preference.
TK setup not needed it’s a drastic tuning change for it to work correctly. I don’t have experience with it because I thought it was pointless when the car already works so good.
@@shredcraftrc From a physics viewpoint it didn’t make much sense to me. I have the TK option, so have been curious but haven’t tried it. I understand why a little better now. Thanks!
Nice video! Complete comprehensive guide of "how to" a suspension set up. It's almost like you've done this IRL. 🤔 Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Will come in handy when I build my RDS (and the DC-10 once I nab one). Pro tip: beano an hour before recording will quiet that "chair." 😂
Thank you, I appreciate it. I’ve thought about it but I’m not the best at electronics and some servo setting still mystify me so I’m a kinda set it and forget it and drive around the issue kinda guy so I don’t think my video would be very informative.
@shredcraftrc I agree, I have a programmable AGFRC servo like yours and I'm like uhhh... I know endpoints and speed lol I know I'm gonna have my work cut out for me, just trying to dial my steering on my kyosho outlaw rampage pro with my radiolink TX/RX I was lost and it drives like a drunk pig lol
Like I said in the video, its more of a reference for a simple trackside alignment, if you know your gauge is 2 degrees off than its simple enough to compensate when doing your alignment, as long as both sides are the same. My gauge seems to be pretty accurate cross checking my alignment rack.
Great video, super in-depth information. Thanks a lot to take the time to explain everything. One of the aspects on alignment in RC drift cars I always think about and doubt is caster. It seems to me that caster is an adjustment totally unnecessary in servo controlled cars, and it affects other adjustments. Caster is theoretically a feature to autostabilize steering in real life cars, when there is not a servo holding a steering position and you want the car to go back to drive straight. In our case, caster may only help to stabilize the wheel when there is some slack in the links, to avoid vibrations. Have anyone ever thought about this? Do you think that its possible to have a good tunned car without any caster? Maybe just a little bit only to take into acount the slack?
You definitely need caster, it’s what controls the contact patch at angle and will self steer the tire back to center, a car with no caster would not drift and would understeer very bad. Camber caster and toe all work together so when your wheels move they are able to create grip across the steering sweep.
Instant like and save, Great video full of extremely useful info , I'll admit id love to see more about the roll center, anti dive and kpi, I'm also super curious about the bell crank is there a reason some chassis have the link mounting points so wide and other have them almost next to each other? but I understand covering the basics first 🤘
Appreciate it. The race guys have much better videos about roll center and anti dive, kpi is knuckle dependent so subjective for the chassis. Bellcrank would also be subjective for the chassis, on the RDX there are different holes on the rack to run a longer or shorter toe arm, I’m not positive the effect, kinda stuck with want worked for me and didn’t dive any deeper.
0 caster is never used the reason cars have caster and camber is to maintain contact patch throughout the steering sweep. At 0 the tires would be on their outside edges at all times go ahead and try it. Drift cars are always sideways and never straight so the front wheels are always at angle.
off topic, but the agfrc servo and gyro are the ones i was planning to get after seeing an ex drone racer say they make them for a lot of the other big brands and are almost identical for half the price. curious how you rate them vs other brands. complete newb here just spec'n potential builds lol
Hi, good job with the vid! Do you think the settings could be translated to smaller scale, let's say 1/24 scale cars? I'm askin cause the manifacturer settings on my 1/24 scale car just look ridiculous in comparison to your's, for example 14 degree caster aso. Would like to hear your opinion bout that.Thanks
I can’t say for sure because I don’t have any experience with 1/24 cars but there were some people in the comments that said it worked for them, just like everything, tuning is very subjective.
@@shredcraftrc I'm just upgrading this particulary car with a ton of new alloy parts , basically a new build apparently. Will do some tinkering with the settings after finishing the build. I'll try some of your's cause my guess it's not about the size/mass, it's all about physics after all. Yeah true, after all it's subjective somehow. Thx again for your reply, keep up your good work !
When you finished the car, was the steering a little stiff to turn. I can turn it but it does have a little friction when turning by hand without a servo installed
My yoko has full angle on both left and right but for some reason on the left when fully angled it locks up and whole front doesn’t move only the rear like drags it toward lol any tips ?
Mega helpful video for beginners and top-rated amateurs alike! Thank you!
Thank you so much! I’m stoked people are finding it helpful!!! Means a lot, thanks!
On top of the rest of the video I really appreciate you going over what each of the alignment settings are. 6 months ago when I started hobby I had to look up different videos and/or articles to learn all this and sometimes it was hard to get context. This is the comprehensive guide for alignment. Thank you!
Thank you I really appreciate that and I’m glad that people are already finding this video helpful! Means the world to me so thank you, I really like making these videos for you all!
27:42 Your explanation of toe-in is much clearer than other videos I've watched. Thanks for breaking it down so well
Thank for watching, I’m glad you go some useful info from it. 🤙
This is by far the best instructional video i have watched. I actually stopped drifting because i just didn’t understand what my car was doing. I would get 3
different explanations from people at my track. They are very smart, but i need it dummy level. Yours is the perfect blend of if you do this, this happens. And then follow up by showing us how the wheels are reacting. Thank you!
I’m so glad you liked the video and it helped you out, I appreciate, thank you. 🤙
I really appreciate you for this video. I’m into this hobby for a bit over two years and learned a lot from you. I can’t wait to test it at my local track 😊
Awesome! Thanks for watching, I’m glad you liked the video! 🤙
Legend for putting this all together! Been in the hobby for 1 year now, but still found this super helpful. Thanks!
I’m glad you liked the video and found it helpful! Thank you! 🤙
Thank you so much. This is exactly what I’ve been looking for being new to the hobby and starting with a RTR.
Happy that the video helped you! Thank you for watching! 🤙
Not into RC drifting currently but still wanna give you a credit. Such detailed and well demonstrated video. Well done
🤙
Great information, been drifting in a club for more than 2 years. My settings are pretty close to yours. Also the reason behind those settings, from my own understanding and feel are on point with what you said.
That’s awesome and good to know we have similar outcomes with similar setups! Been thinking about how I can make a universal spreadsheet with all my findings.
Thank you for putting this all together! It was cool to learn more about instant center vs roll center and the rear fulcrum on my car.
Thanks for watching! I’m glad this video has been helpful!
Any experience or knowledge with the TK rear camber link set up? I think it would minimize the fulcrum, making for a stiff setup that doesn’t change much under load? I haven’t found any theory on the TK topic, only it’s a personal preference.
TK setup not needed it’s a drastic tuning change for it to work correctly. I don’t have experience with it because I thought it was pointless when the car already works so good.
@@shredcraftrc From a physics viewpoint it didn’t make much sense to me. I have the TK option, so have been curious but haven’t tried it. I understand why a little better now. Thanks!
Nice video! Complete comprehensive guide of "how to" a suspension set up. It's almost like you've done this IRL. 🤔
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Will come in handy when I build my RDS (and the DC-10 once I nab one). Pro tip: beano an hour before recording will quiet that "chair." 😂
🤣🤣🤣 taking the “chair” note haha! Glad you liked the video! Thanks for watching.
Love your content man. It has helped me a ton! Can you make a video on tuning servos?
Thank you, I appreciate it. I’ve thought about it but I’m not the best at electronics and some servo setting still mystify me so I’m a kinda set it and forget it and drive around the issue kinda guy so I don’t think my video would be very informative.
@shredcraftrc I agree, I have a programmable AGFRC servo like yours and I'm like uhhh... I know endpoints and speed lol I know I'm gonna have my work cut out for me, just trying to dial my steering on my kyosho outlaw rampage pro with my radiolink TX/RX I was lost and it drives like a drunk pig lol
@@RandomStuffGarage619 I have the same servo and have a similar understanding level as you I think haha.
overall extremely detailed and informative video thanks a bunch i will def use this as a reference in the future.
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching 🤙
realy nice video i love your new video style it helps a lot thx for so mutch information
i thik it will help a lot beginners
Thank you! I really appreciate that, I’m so glad this video is helping people out! 🤙
This video is about to result in a lot of fire trains. Good shit!
I’m glad you liked it! I’m stoked to get in some of those trains tonight!
thanks for sharing this video about rc car alignment settings
Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
@9:02 Hope that gage is accurate, tested mine and it is off by -2deg.
Like I said in the video, its more of a reference for a simple trackside alignment, if you know your gauge is 2 degrees off than its simple enough to compensate when doing your alignment, as long as both sides are the same. My gauge seems to be pretty accurate cross checking my alignment rack.
Nice video man, very indepth
Appreciate it!
Aayyyyeee shout out to AGFRC servos haha thats what i have in my D5s. Matching gyro should be here tomorrow! Cant wait to finish my first build!
🤙
Great video, super in-depth information. Thanks a lot to take the time to explain everything. One of the aspects on alignment in RC drift cars I always think about and doubt is caster. It seems to me that caster is an adjustment totally unnecessary in servo controlled cars, and it affects other adjustments. Caster is theoretically a feature to autostabilize steering in real life cars, when there is not a servo holding a steering position and you want the car to go back to drive straight. In our case, caster may only help to stabilize the wheel when there is some slack in the links, to avoid vibrations. Have anyone ever thought about this? Do you think that its possible to have a good tunned car without any caster? Maybe just a little bit only to take into acount the slack?
You definitely need caster, it’s what controls the contact patch at angle and will self steer the tire back to center, a car with no caster would not drift and would understeer very bad. Camber caster and toe all work together so when your wheels move they are able to create grip across the steering sweep.
Instant like and save,
Great video full of extremely useful info , I'll admit id love to see more about the roll center, anti dive and kpi,
I'm also super curious about the bell crank is there a reason some chassis have the link mounting points so wide and other have them almost next to each other?
but I understand covering the basics first 🤘
Appreciate it. The race guys have much better videos about roll center and anti dive, kpi is knuckle dependent so subjective for the chassis. Bellcrank would also be subjective for the chassis, on the RDX there are different holes on the rack to run a longer or shorter toe arm, I’m not positive the effect, kinda stuck with want worked for me and didn’t dive any deeper.
10:57 Nuh uh I don’t believe you
😂😂😂😂
What springs are you running on your big bores? I did this alignment yesterday and it's so good!
Stock Rdx springs up front and rêved medium reds in the rear.
Amazing video✊🙌
What happens if you set near 0 caster and both front wheels have maximum contact at all times?
0 caster is never used the reason cars have caster and camber is to maintain contact patch throughout the steering sweep. At 0 the tires would be on their outside edges at all times go ahead and try it. Drift cars are always sideways and never straight so the front wheels are always at angle.
Great info thanks soo much!
Thanks for watching! 🤙 glad you liked it!
off topic, but the agfrc servo and gyro are the ones i was planning to get after seeing an ex drone racer say they make them for a lot of the other big brands and are almost identical for half the price. curious how you rate them vs other brands. complete newb here just spec'n potential builds lol
I like AGFRC servos, never had a problem although their prices have gone up. I use their 55kg in my crawlers and the 19kg in my drift car.
Hey there huge fan of the channel I was wondering what diff you run in your RDX? Thanks for all the information you provide.
C-LSD
@ much appreciated you’re awesome
Sick thank you so much.
Thank you for watching 🤙
Hi, good job with the vid! Do you think the settings could be translated to smaller scale, let's say 1/24 scale cars? I'm askin cause the manifacturer settings on my 1/24 scale car just look ridiculous in comparison to your's, for example 14 degree caster aso. Would like to hear your opinion bout that.Thanks
I can’t say for sure because I don’t have any experience with 1/24 cars but there were some people in the comments that said it worked for them, just like everything, tuning is very subjective.
@@shredcraftrc I'm just upgrading this particulary car with a ton of new alloy parts , basically a new build apparently. Will do some tinkering with the settings after finishing the build. I'll try some of your's cause my guess it's not about the size/mass, it's all about physics after all. Yeah true, after all it's subjective somehow. Thx again for your reply, keep up your good work !
When you finished the car, was the steering a little stiff to turn. I can turn it but it does have a little friction when turning by hand without a servo installed
No, your steering arms should move as free as possible, check for binding and pay attention to the instructions as to where the shims should go.
excellent
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thank you! 🤙
Sick , terimakasih 🤘
Thanks 🤙
I love this videos
Glad you like it!
Fire video
🤙 thanks man!
Very Nice ❤
Thank you 🤙
My yoko has full angle on both left and right but for some reason on the left when fully angled it locks up and whole front doesn’t move only the rear like drags it toward lol any tips ?
Make sure everything is equal and the chassis is on the ground you won’t get full steering sweep if your wheels are off the ground.
Man i need some set up gear... i just eyeball everything haha 🥴
It’s nice at times but not needed