Cutting Binding Channels (Ep 18 - Acoustic Guitar Build)
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- Опубліковано 6 тра 2018
- Thank you Work Sharp Tools for sponsoring this series!
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In this video I show the process for cutting the binding channel. First, I get the soundboard and back flush on the router table, then I cut the channel with a dremel setup that StewMac makes:
bit.ly/2H6rPki
I'm going to install the back binding before I cut the soundboard binding channel. I'll do that in my next video.
Here's another method to cut a binding channel which is a lot more safe and cuts a more exact channel: • Cutting Binding and Pu...
Music: / lakeyinspired
"Going up"
The way you explained how to minimise tearout, with the visuals and chalk is the best I've seen. Anyone could understand. Well done with the work
The bars go into the channel , that’s the only way to go .Very good man.
Once again, very nicely done Adam! As you know, they make special bits for that job & also a platform that holds the guitar which then can be run across a router which is held above the guitar in a special jig. That's what I used but that's another story...... :)
I was like Adam, where is video #19? Then I realized #18 was only two days ago haha Your doing a great job brother keep em' coming can't wait to see it when it's done!!
I made this comment at the 2:02 mark, just to say that especially with woods that are more prone to tearout, it usually best to go with a spindle sander than a router to flush the sides. Cutting the binding channel will be easier as there is more surface under and behind the zirocote, but to trim the excess I would expect nothing but tearout.
Great work! hi from Brasilia Brazil!
Thanks! I was in help Horizonte for the World Cup in ‘14 and loved it! I’ll be rooting for you guys this summer!
Yes, that's exactly the problem with this Stewmac router tool. The right angle is just not fitting the doming of the back and top. They now offer an adjustable router base but they didn't when i purchased mine. Evenso i believe the extension with the spacer ring is too short. A longer spacer ring would give much more support and make sure the router tool is in vertical position all the time. I think the router base should be free floating because the doming changes along the edges. If the spacer extension would be long enough, you wouldn't need a fixed router baseplate.
When you go to route your front and back if you brush it with shellac there is less of a chance of tear out.
by using this cutting method, the result is going to be a tilted binding-channel. how do you compensate for the angle oft the Back and the sides? I use a router with an adjustable base and adjust the angle as i go or I cut with my parallel-jig.
Hey Adam - love your videos. Quick question for ya... I'm just starting the process of building my guitar and am already terrified of cutting of the bindings. The spruce I'm using for the soundboard is very delicate and I am wary of using the StewMac binding bit as it looks very aggressive. Any suggestions or ideas for alternatives? Like a purfling knife? I don't mind spending that extra time on it if it means I can reduce the chances of accidentally cutting the soundboard.
I like the video!
Maybe changing the bearing of the router bit to a smaller one can make it a bit easier. Depth guard comes beneath the router base is kind of tricky because approaching angle can change the depth so easily.
The bearing of that router base extension is too short. The diameter is ok, although it could be even larger as there is no such narrow curve on any guitar, that there is need for a smaller diameter bearing.
I'm about to do the same also with the StewMac router base and edge guide. What speed did you set the Dremel to?
How about showing us this stick and sandpaper fix for not-quite-right channels?
Good
Hello i speak from Brasil...which cutter you used in Dremel ???
Haha. Why do I get the feel no you aren’t enjoying this guitar build as much? Lol. But looking great and thanks for posting...I’m enjoying it
Haha yeah just kind of super stressed cause I want to finish with the videos so the stakes are kind of high. I think I’ll def be ready for a different project once I’m finished! Thanks!
It's likely because this job sucks. There are very few tools that work precise and also work well on guitars with domed backs and tops. The tools that might work best are very expensive and the rest is not satisfactory. The alternative is to make it all by hand with a chisel just like in the good old times, but honestly, that is a hassle too.
hello
sive for binding in electric?
Cutting the binding channels is by far the most stressful part of building a guitar. Very little room for error. There are binding jigs that ride the sides of the guitar instead of the top/back, taking the radius out of the equation.
anda yakin gitar anda presisi?,, kok aku ngelihatnya body dpn agak ketarik kebelakang,,
Great job but you forget some important steps
I hate binding, on acoustics, on electrics, period. I also, hate anything but flat, natural open pored wood tops on acoustics.
Yes, this are all hassles that don't make your life easy as a luthier. Open pores, bindings, rosettes and stuff. Nonetheless you need to find ways to deal with it as it is just unavoidable. Many great luthiers in the past had to deal with it and each one of them had it's own way how to solve the problem. Some of them were pretty genious, but their knowledge was lost because of disinterest of the new generation or because some of them were too secretive about their methods.