Thanks for making this very easy to follow. I've been intimidated to wrap up my Yamaha TTR project due to controller settings. But now I'm inspired to wrap it up!
Thanks for the informative video! Hoping to continue learning more and more so someday I can take one look at the motor and instantly know the settings I’ll be tweaking off the bat in the FD app.
I just ordered my ND72300 im so excited lol im going with a 60v 23ah 100amp battery. 😊 By the way thanks voltron for the cool very informative content bro.
Very nice video on basic setup with emphasis that this is not a tune and every DIY installation (where you bought everything individually based on your own research) needs a tune. Any fardriver that comes in a kit (Battery, motor, controller) should have a safe tune before it’s shipped. One thing not oh Ryan’s cheat sheet that is overlooked because its in the PID section, and everyone is taught “don’t touch those or you might burn your motor!!” Lol, is that the AN number, which is the magnet arrangement, needs to be set. It doesn’t detect in autolearn. And it’s not mid-drive vs hub, its surface mount vs embedded. AN:0 -2 being large hub motor, AN:4-6 being small mid-drive with surface mounted magnets, and AN:12-16 being for the good motors (embedded, V-type, etc). Lol.
@@VoltronWatts , thanks for making helpful videos. Many people need these to get started. I see Ryan signed your basic settings with his “220 Throttle ACC step”, knowing it’s basically the same as 224 but he can see who’s been copying his “tune” lol since nobody else would set 220. Lol Unfortunately there are zero Fardriver tuning videos and anyone who thought about making one later said “oh hail no!!” Lol. It would be a basic engineering course with a small section about the controller tuning. I think this is why every real controller manual says “professionals only”, and ASI doesn’t even let their average customer tune their own controller. KO Moto makes a great Fardriver tuning guide. If you go to their website and read their instructions you will immediately see it’s a Fardriver app with new skin. But they do a great job explaining the settings in short simple way.
Bro I was an electric hater for years and years fast forward to now (I’m 45) and I don’t want to terrorize my neighborhood on a predator 212 anymore 😂 I recently built a front wheels drive drift trike on an electric wheel but it’s boggy off the start but I am actually loving the damn thing even though it lacks torque plus I get more run time do to less police calls from grumpy Karens and Kyle’s on electric! 😂😂😂😂 Thank you for these videos brother I’m learning so much. I have an 1800 watt vevor/mophorn kit but can I replace the controller from the one it came with to a fardriver? My kids and I are having a blast on our electric toys now.
Good Morning ~ Megawatt~!! Man Im about to do all this! Ryan Is Great guy! Had heck time getin android app lol .. Bout to turn the key and bond... ! wish me luck...f11 72 vol LETS GOO! 11/72 mx set up ec forks n shock mx650
I haven’t changed out many controllers, what do you do with mismatched connections such as phase and hall connectors? Is it best to cut them and rewire them or are their adapters?
It’s best to buy the waterproof hall connector that comes on every Fardriver and replace the 💩 connector that comes on some motors. Its not difficult if you have the tools. On my first build I took the lazy way out and cut the good connector off my controller and put the 💩 connector on that matched my motor. It had several problems along the way with pins getting pushed out and the ebike stops running when it goes over a bump. Eventually when moving the controller I shoved the hall connector into the batt (+) connection and it fried the hall sensor. This will not happen with the good connector, although the real issue was having wires without shrink wrap on the exposed parts. The real connector is super overkill and bulky but has secure pin locks and is 100% waterproof. You might be able to find an adapter but it adds unnecessary failure points. The same tools are needed for either connector. I bought a bag of 10 sets pretty cheap so I can do future projects or even redo some of the other molex connectors with a waterproof connector. The only reason not to is if your wiring compartment is too small for the extra bulk of the connectors.
When you do the hall sensor test do you have the motor direction on 0 cause I change that before the test and I’m having problems with doing the throttle test can you help me.
Nice channel, subd for more! Have you used the MY1020 featured in your other video with fardriver by any chance? I've purchased two kits from Kunray using that motor and FD. They both have a unique throttle issue I've just dropped a video on. In short, 1 out of 3 throttles results in only ~850 RPM ceiling. And outside of that she runs amazing 🙃
Hey man! Thanks for watching and commenting. I havnt ran a FD with the My1020. So I can’t speak to that unfortunately. I’ve also never heard of the issue you’re describing. Maybe hop in the fardriver tuning Facebook group and see if you can get an answer 🍻
Split the throttle between the two and adjust power delivery in the controller to front and back is how I would do it. There might be a better way, but that’s what would make sense to me
Which pin in the board of controller for single line digital speedometer? Because i can't found the light blue wire on the my controller, And the wiring colour is very different with your controller. i think the manufactur of my ev motor have been changed it.
If you have one of the new models like 72450, sometimes the LIN signal is on the brown wire, which is normally BOOST. if you use the boost feature just reassign that to one of the unused wired from the dropdown list. If you have one of the older Fardrivers like 72360 or 72850, the LIN is on the light blue wire.
@@imho7250 That's right, I'm using a 72450 and pin 18 with the brown cable is already used for the BOOST feature. How do I change the brown cable to LIN and which of other pin / cable can be used for BOOST?
@@a.n.d.ae.v961 , if your brown cable is used for boost and boost works, it’s probably not the LIN wire. Any of the unused wires in the dropdown lost can be used. These are normally the wires that have a 5v signal (not 5v supply) that are connected to ground to activate a feature such as reverse and cruise. Its a bit confusing because I think the pin number they use is the microprocessor pin, not the connector pin, so you have to look at the wiring schematic and see which pin is for which function. Does your boost feature work?
I do not understand why FD are making the ‘bounding’ so difficult? Video, is good but have to watch it again, and screenshot, the important parts, thanks for trying to help ❤🙏
I think the stock battery is around 100 amp discharge, so probably a ND72340 because it can do 120 battery amps so you have some wiggle room. But if you think you will ever upgrade the battery then I would just go ahead and buy a more powerful one now so you don't have to buy another controller later.
@@666.32 I don’t have insta, and I don’t think the stock screen is compatible. I’ve never even used a fardriver controller, my recommendation was just based on standard info about batteries. You want a controller with the same voltage and the same or more battery amps, and it should work.
I have a problem, when i am not driving the controller goes into a walking gear and it goes max 5kmh. Then when i twist the trottle a few times it goes back to normal. Is it a setting?
@@VoltronWatts Oh ok that makes a lot more sense now thanks for explaining it. What wires or cables do you even need to set that up? Are there any videos showing how to do this that you recommend? Thanks. Also, do you need a certain type of battery in order for the power to cycle back in?
@schmeglyomigy6174 the controller needs to be capable of accepting regen. There is no additional cables needed for regen. It all happens through the cables that are already there providing power to the motor when you are riding 🤙
@@VoltronWatts Oh wow that is really cool. I’m thinking about getting a fardriver controller. Do you know if that might work for it? Also, have you had experience with amorge batteries?
@@schmeglyomigy6174, I think you are confusing welding the freewheel clutch inside a geared motor with welding a freewheel sprocket which nobody would do. It would only be for something with a bicycle mid drive with freewheel clutch between the pedals and the front sprocket. If you are using a fardriver you would most likely not use a geared hub so there is no freewheel inside and it will allow regen.
I have 2 bikes.. I can connect to both and bound to one. The other says "no authorize" and won't let me change my parameters. Do you know how to bound it?
@@VoltronWatts it worked until I switched my battery. Bought a hottpax and started this problem. I'm going to try the ant bms app. I also emailed fardriver, waiting on a response back. I just didn't know if I was just missing something
Under Parameters section, it says "TempSensor: xxxxx" scroll through each one until you find one that finds the temperature for your motor (might have to rev it to properly refresh in the graphs). My QS90 uses CACU in case anyone comes across this comment.
If you don’t have any temperature sensor you can use Cacu which is a simulation program in the Fardriver. This simulation uses the RatedPower setting (which has absolutely no effect on controller power) to determine the thermal mass for the simulation, and then it will estimate the motor temperature based on the controller temperature times a gain determined by the value entered in RatedPower. This will never be as good as a real temperature sensor but if you have no sensor, it can be adjusted to protect your motor because it will still shut down the controller when simulated temperature reaches 160c. Its best to start with RatedPower set at 50% of max continuous power and then test it and see if your actual motor temperature is slightly cooler than the temperature gauge shows. If you set RatedPower power to 200%, thinking it gives you more power, it only tricks the simulation program into thinking you have twice the thermal mass and your windings can burn before the Fardriver reaches overtemp protection. If you don’t have the 6th wire in the hall connector, normally white, between the red and black wires, you don’t have a temperature sensor. If you have the wire and its a modern QS motor its KTY83-122 in the dropdown list. Always use the real sensor if you have one and your controller has the firmware for it. Note: The Cacu simulator will reset each time you reboot the controller back to the base temperature of the controller. This in no way means the motor has actually cooled off so if you got an overtemp, make sure to check the actual motor temperature with your hand and if its hot, ride at a very low power so it gets air cooling without the high current.
Great video ..I just finished installing Far driver controller and it's already beeping for the Auto learn with out register the controller the app won't send me the code....😢
Anyone else have issues with the FarDriver app not accepting changes? I’ve been trying to update the pole pairs setting and no matter what I select, it stays at 4.
P function is PARK Function. Basic setups wont use this. Some annoying ebikes use it so that when you turn the key on, it starts in Park and won’t move if you twist the throttle until you press some button to put it in drive. In basic setup you don’t have an extra switch to waste on this and you are smart enough to know if you turn the key on, the throttle will make the bike move. The very sophisticated electric motorcycles have side-stand safety switch and also a PARK mode, both will prevent the throttle from making the bike move. But on a basic bike these are just extra things which can cause the controller to stop making power so most people don’t use them.
Just seen it 3 more times 😂🦾thanks bro.. don’t know what I would do without your videos
I appreciate you brotha! 🤜🤛
E-Conic cycles and Ryan Goodyear are the goats in the e bike game! Best in the business to deal with. Fair pricing and knowledgeable!
100% on that
Ryan is the man! Trust worthy, honest, kind, helpful… the list goes on!
100% 🤙
For context - I’ve bought straight through him, he’s been a saint with all my questions and a wonderful teacher as well. He deserves all the praise !!
@VinSPURation a true review from a genuine customer!
Thanks for making this very easy to follow. I've been intimidated to wrap up my Yamaha TTR project due to controller settings. But now I'm inspired to wrap it up!
Hell yea man! I’m glad it helped! Thanks for watching 👊
Thanks for this video, was able to set up my 72360. You are the man! 🤘🏼
Glad it helped!!
Wanna build your own mini moto? Visit voltronwatts.com to get started! 🤜🤛
Alright you convinced me, just ordered my far driver
Send it bud!🚀🚀
nice! i did mine as a newbie and the auto learn THREW OFF my chain, so great tip to remove the chain!!
Yes sir! 🫡 thank you for watching and commenting 👊
Great video I’m about to set mine up now 👍
Right on! 🤙
Do far drivers only work with the more expensive motors? Like does it work with a cheap vevor motor?
Sure will!
i put mine on a chinese 1000w hub motor and it loves it
Thanks for the informative video! Hoping to continue learning more and more so someday I can take one look at the motor and instantly know the settings I’ll be tweaking off the bat in the FD app.
You got this 💪
I just ordered my ND72300 im so excited lol im going with a 60v 23ah 100amp battery. 😊
By the way thanks voltron for the cool very informative content bro.
I appreciate you watching and commenting man! 🍻
great choice, i got one by chance and it's sweet..
Awesome Vid! Can't wait for the Advanced Tuning Sequel!
Oh boy! 😁
Thank you, very helpful video!
Totally! Thank you for watching and commenting! 🤙
Very nice video on basic setup with emphasis that this is not a tune and every DIY installation (where you bought everything individually based on your own research) needs a tune. Any fardriver that comes in a kit (Battery, motor, controller) should have a safe tune before it’s shipped.
One thing not oh Ryan’s cheat sheet that is overlooked because its in the PID section, and everyone is taught “don’t touch those or you might burn your motor!!” Lol, is that the AN number, which is the magnet arrangement, needs to be set. It doesn’t detect in autolearn.
And it’s not mid-drive vs hub, its surface mount vs embedded. AN:0 -2 being large hub motor, AN:4-6 being small mid-drive with surface mounted magnets, and AN:12-16 being for the good motors (embedded, V-type, etc). Lol.
Dude, thank you for sharing!
@@VoltronWatts , thanks for making helpful videos. Many people need these to get started.
I see Ryan signed your basic settings with his “220 Throttle ACC step”, knowing it’s basically the same as 224 but he can see who’s been copying his “tune” lol since nobody else would set 220. Lol
Unfortunately there are zero Fardriver tuning videos and anyone who thought about making one later said “oh hail no!!” Lol. It would be a basic engineering course with a small section about the controller tuning.
I think this is why every real controller manual says “professionals only”, and ASI doesn’t even let their average customer tune their own controller.
KO Moto makes a great Fardriver tuning guide. If you go to their website and read their instructions you will immediately see it’s a Fardriver app with new skin. But they do a great job explaining the settings in short simple way.
very useful for newbie like me! Thanks so much!
Any time!!👍
There is also a race mode. It pulls even more power for a few seconds. Use carefully or you will fry things up
Noted!
Bro I was an electric hater for years and years fast forward to now (I’m 45) and I don’t want to terrorize my neighborhood on a predator 212 anymore 😂 I recently built a front wheels drive drift trike on an electric wheel but it’s boggy off the start but I am actually loving the damn thing even though it lacks torque plus I get more run time do to less police calls from grumpy Karens and Kyle’s on electric! 😂😂😂😂 Thank you for these videos brother I’m learning so much.
I have an 1800 watt vevor/mophorn kit but can I replace the controller from the one it came with to a fardriver?
My kids and I are having a blast on our electric toys now.
Thank you for sharing! You can replace the controller with a fardriver, for sure 👍 keep it up man, kids love these things 🤙
Good Morning ~ Megawatt~!! Man Im about to do all this! Ryan Is Great guy! Had heck time getin android app lol .. Bout to turn the key and bond... ! wish me luck...f11 72 vol LETS GOO! 11/72 mx set up ec forks n shock mx650
Hell yea brotha! 👊
I haven’t changed out many controllers, what do you do with mismatched connections such as phase and hall connectors? Is it best to cut them and rewire them or are their adapters?
I snip off the end and install a connection that works with the motor. 👌
That’s what I thought, I wish someone just made adapters lol.
It’s best to buy the waterproof hall connector that comes on every Fardriver and replace the 💩 connector that comes on some motors. Its not difficult if you have the tools.
On my first build I took the lazy way out and cut the good connector off my controller and put the 💩 connector on that matched my motor. It had several problems along the way with pins getting pushed out and the ebike stops running when it goes over a bump. Eventually when moving the controller I shoved the hall connector into the batt (+) connection and it fried the hall sensor. This will not happen with the good connector, although the real issue was having wires without shrink wrap on the exposed parts.
The real connector is super overkill and bulky but has secure pin locks and is 100% waterproof.
You might be able to find an adapter but it adds unnecessary failure points.
The same tools are needed for either connector. I bought a bag of 10 sets pretty cheap so I can do future projects or even redo some of the other molex connectors with a waterproof connector. The only reason not to is if your wiring compartment is too small for the extra bulk of the connectors.
When you do the hall sensor test do you have the motor direction on 0 cause I change that before the test and I’m having problems with doing the throttle test can you help me.
That I am unsure. Sorry man
Hey man I’m having trouble finding my controller in the app it won’t pop up in the comm page what do I do?
You have Bluetooth turned on?
Great❤Thanks for sharing Stay safe
Of course! Thank you for watching 🍻
I cant find my fardriver in the app it doesnt scan i restarted my phone, the app, and reconnected the dongle can you help?
I’d contact fardriver. I’m not sure what the issue could be. Sorry man.
Awesome video 💯👊🏿
Thank you for watching! 👊
Nice channel, subd for more! Have you used the MY1020 featured in your other video with fardriver by any chance? I've purchased two kits from Kunray using that motor and FD. They both have a unique throttle issue I've just dropped a video on. In short, 1 out of 3 throttles results in only ~850 RPM ceiling. And outside of that she runs amazing 🙃
Hey man! Thanks for watching and commenting. I havnt ran a FD with the My1020. So I can’t speak to that unfortunately. I’ve also never heard of the issue you’re describing. Maybe hop in the fardriver tuning Facebook group and see if you can get an answer 🍻
One more question it says my throttle is 0.80v and in the setting it says 1.1v what do i change it too I did not understand what you said
I appreciate this bro it helped so much thanks
Hell yea brotha! 🫡
Please i have 72v 48ah battery, what do i set my max line curr and max phase curr to?
How many amps is your battery?
@@VoltronWatts45amp
i cant find a controller that will work with my e&c 76v 24ah 180amp battery and kr5v moter can you help?
Fardriver will work with both of those motors and the E&C trumoto controllers are designed for the E&C motors 👍
thanks for this man!!!
Yes sir!! Thank u for watching and hopefully subscribing 🤜🤛
Hello I’m wondering what does boost line current mean is is the max discharge (most amps the battery can take for like 5 seconds)
If you have a boost button you can add that setting 👍
@@VoltronWatts thanks
@owenschofield1790 anytime
Please can you answer my question. I am suffering from motor hall eror what i can i do to fix it? I have the same controller what you have.
Try a different throttle. I know it sounds odd but give it a shot
What is the problem 😭
@@VoltronWatts i already send the foto of the graph that i have. Please controll your facebook account
How is it done with 2 controllers for dual motor 4x4
Split the throttle between the two and adjust power delivery in the controller to front and back is how I would do it. There might be a better way, but that’s what would make sense to me
@@VoltronWatts ok thanks. Do you auto learn both with separate dongle on same app, cheers
Your the man Ryan ⚡️⚡️⚡️🗝
He knows his stuff 🤙
Which pin in the board of controller for single line digital speedometer?
Because i can't found the light blue wire on the my controller, And the wiring colour is very different with your controller. i think the manufactur of my ev motor have been changed it.
I’m not sure on that. Sorry. Would have to look at a fardriver wiring schematic
If you have one of the new models like 72450, sometimes the LIN signal is on the brown wire, which is normally BOOST. if you use the boost feature just reassign that to one of the unused wired from the dropdown list.
If you have one of the older Fardrivers like 72360 or 72850, the LIN is on the light blue wire.
@@imho7250 That's right, I'm using a 72450 and pin 18 with the brown cable is already used for the BOOST feature. How do I change the brown cable to LIN and which of other pin / cable can be used for BOOST?
@@a.n.d.ae.v961 , if your brown cable is used for boost and boost works, it’s probably not the LIN wire. Any of the unused wires in the dropdown lost can be used. These are normally the wires that have a 5v signal (not 5v supply) that are connected to ground to activate a feature such as reverse and cruise.
Its a bit confusing because I think the pin number they use is the microprocessor pin, not the connector pin, so you have to look at the wiring schematic and see which pin is for which function.
Does your boost feature work?
Thank you for sharing!
Hi all. My motor Golden Motor 3 does not change the direction of rotation, what should I do? 0-1 doesn't give anything
I don’t know anything about that motor. I’m sorry
I do not understand why FD are making the ‘bounding’ so difficult? Video, is good but have to watch it again, and screenshot, the important parts, thanks for trying to help ❤🙏
Thanks for watching! 🍻
Mate what fardriver do you recomend me to use for stock surron stock batery
I think the stock battery is around 100 amp discharge, so probably a ND72340 because it can do 120 battery amps so you have some wiggle room. But if you think you will ever upgrade the battery then I would just go ahead and buy a more powerful one now so you don't have to buy another controller later.
@@Calthecoolthx ,do you have insta?
@@Calthecooland i stil can use the fardriver with the stock screen to see speed batery and that?
Sounds good!
@@666.32 I don’t have insta, and I don’t think the stock screen is compatible. I’ve never even used a fardriver controller, my recommendation was just based on standard info about batteries. You want a controller with the same voltage and the same or more battery amps, and it should work.
I have a problem, when i am not driving the controller goes into a walking gear and it goes max 5kmh. Then when i twist the trottle a few times it goes back to normal. Is it a setting?
It’s gotta be. Did you do the auto learn and that’s all? Or did you change any settings? Is your temp sensor setting correct?
With a emxlite 3 speed switch, do you auto learn in high?
That would work 👍
Thanks for the reply big dawg! I realized the fd would figure everything out lol but damn, these qs motors are crazy!
This is a random question but what is the benefit of swapping the freewheel for a welded freewheel?
With a welded freewheel you get the added benefit of using regen within your motor, controller and battery 👍
@@VoltronWatts Oh ok that makes a lot more sense now thanks for explaining it. What wires or cables do you even need to set that up? Are there any videos showing how to do this that you recommend? Thanks. Also, do you need a certain type of battery in order for the power to cycle back in?
@schmeglyomigy6174 the controller needs to be capable of accepting regen. There is no additional cables needed for regen. It all happens through the cables that are already there providing power to the motor when you are riding 🤙
@@VoltronWatts Oh wow that is really cool. I’m thinking about getting a fardriver controller. Do you know if that might work for it? Also, have you had experience with amorge batteries?
@@schmeglyomigy6174, I think you are confusing welding the freewheel clutch inside a geared motor with welding a freewheel sprocket which nobody would do. It would only be for something with a bicycle mid drive with freewheel clutch between the pedals and the front sprocket.
If you are using a fardriver you would most likely not use a geared hub so there is no freewheel inside and it will allow regen.
Best video for doing the install ?
You mean the wiring and all? EBMX Brandon has a good vid on that 👌
Great video sir!!! ,.. but to be honest I was hoping for more Kyle , (that shit kills me every time ...lol,..2 funny🤣)
You mean the alter ego, Voltron Squatts? 😂😂
@@VoltronWatts yes, the alter ego is great whatever his name is , now I hope to see Voltron Squatts too. ... 🛵 🤘
Thanks for watching!🤙
I have android and i can not find the far driver app. Anyone having this issue?
I have an Apple. Never used the android. Sorry I can’t help here
I have 2 bikes.. I can connect to both and bound to one. The other says "no authorize" and won't let me change my parameters. Do you know how to bound it?
You might have to call fardriver and have them reset it. Has it always been that way? Or did it work at any point?
@@VoltronWatts it worked until I switched my battery. Bought a hottpax and started this problem. I'm going to try the ant bms app. I also emailed fardriver, waiting on a response back. I just didn't know if I was just missing something
@@VoltronWatts I’m having the same issue, i tried emailing them and nobody got back. Do you know anyway I can contact fardrvier?
I don’t have a contact at fardriver, I’m sorry.
You get this resolved?
good morning. how can i activate the motor temperature in the graph?
If your motor has a temp sensor it should show a number for the degrees
Under Parameters section, it says "TempSensor: xxxxx" scroll through each one until you find one that finds the temperature for your motor (might have to rev it to properly refresh in the graphs). My QS90 uses CACU in case anyone comes across this comment.
If you don’t have any temperature sensor you can use Cacu which is a simulation program in the Fardriver. This simulation uses the RatedPower setting (which has absolutely no effect on controller power) to determine the thermal mass for the simulation, and then it will estimate the motor temperature based on the controller temperature times a gain determined by the value entered in RatedPower.
This will never be as good as a real temperature sensor but if you have no sensor, it can be adjusted to protect your motor because it will still shut down the controller when simulated temperature reaches 160c.
Its best to start with RatedPower set at 50% of max continuous power and then test it and see if your actual motor temperature is slightly cooler than the temperature gauge shows. If you set RatedPower power to 200%, thinking it gives you more power, it only tricks the simulation program into thinking you have twice the thermal mass and your windings can burn before the Fardriver reaches overtemp protection.
If you don’t have the 6th wire in the hall connector, normally white, between the red and black wires, you don’t have a temperature sensor. If you have the wire and its a modern QS motor its KTY83-122 in the dropdown list. Always use the real sensor if you have one and your controller has the firmware for it.
Note: The Cacu simulator will reset each time you reboot the controller back to the base temperature of the controller. This in no way means the motor has actually cooled off so if you got an overtemp, make sure to check the actual motor temperature with your hand and if its hot, ride at a very low power so it gets air cooling without the high current.
My controller can run 200 but my battery is 180 max can i still run 200?
No. You can’t make your battery make more power 🤷👎
Mine says no authorized bound is not authorized
Is it brand new?
I dont have an motor with a temperature sensor but the graph says that its 1600celcius. Does anyone have any tips to fix this?
Not sure there is anything to do. If you dont have a temp sensor the number doesn’t mean anything. Unless I’m misunderstanding
@@VoltronWattsi fixed it, i used the cacu tempeture sensor.
@stormlockefeer8236 right on 👌
Great video Voltron Watts we about to build salute you🫡 awesome content brother 🤙🏽
Thank you for your support boss 🍻
I literally can't find the app and a QR code with the link doesn't work. Any suggestions?
Are you using Apple or android?
I figured it out. Thanks!
@bennyblaze4571 right on!
Compatible with any display??
I don’t know about “any”
@@VoltronWatts ukc1 or tft display ? The typical generic ebike displays
Tft I know for sure
Great video ..I just finished installing Far driver controller and it's already beeping for the Auto learn with out register the controller the app won't send me the code....😢
Youre going 96.5km/h on a 72v battery? Dude I'm getting a fardriver right now
Hahaha!! 💪
Anyone else have issues with the FarDriver app not accepting changes? I’ve been trying to update the pole pairs setting and no matter what I select, it stays at 4.
Have you used the controller on a different motor anytime in the past?
@@VoltronWatts nope. Been like this since day 1. Never anything else.
Many older fardrivers or the clones do not allow any pole pair
I still need to buy my controller
Do it!
Cant even find the app
You can’t find the fardriver app? 😳
Kalkarken zor kalkıyor neden? Lütfen bana yardım edin
English please
The engine struggles and vibrates at startup. I changed the gas voltage and tried everything, but it didn't work.
what is 'p function?'
That, I don’t know, I’m sorry
P function is PARK Function. Basic setups wont use this. Some annoying ebikes use it so that when you turn the key on, it starts in Park and won’t move if you twist the throttle until you press some button to put it in drive.
In basic setup you don’t have an extra switch to waste on this and you are smart enough to know if you turn the key on, the throttle will make the bike move.
The very sophisticated electric motorcycles have side-stand safety switch and also a PARK mode, both will prevent the throttle from making the bike move. But on a basic bike these are just extra things which can cause the controller to stop making power so most people don’t use them.
Fardriver doesn't recognize my mangosteen Bluetooth 😅
Uh oh!😟
I can’t use fardrivers because their throttle response is garbage. Not sure how you guys can put up with this.
Maybe it needs to be tuned properly. 🤷
Just need to address it in the tune / app
👌
Put your fardriver throttle setting on "line" and tell me it doesn't have throttle response 😂
@drag1591 🚀🚀
Ryan Goodyear is awesome helped me so much and helping me on my other build what an awesome dude🤙🏽🚀🦾🫡
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Bro Last account of how many times ive seen the video!🦾
Hell yea brotha! This one you gotta watch a few times in order to get all the details