You saved me a lot of hassle. I was about to take apart my door to troubleshooting my power window failure when I came across this video. My problem was due to the lock switch being activated :-) Thanks for your help ..
Remember when we were kids and had to spend countless hours working on/through problems with our cars with very little to no guidance? Thank the Lord for the internet and guys like you! My son just purchased a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII and although the engine is strong, the electronics need some serious help, including both windows! Passenger doesn't roll down(off track) and the drivers won't roll up(motor works). So, I am looking at the switch and wiring. Love the bulb tester, I'm making one now.
You may have more than one issue, First, make sure the main switch on the driver's master switch panel is turned "on". Then access one of the rear window motors and substitute the motor for a test bulb like the one shown in the video. Operate the switches for that motor in BOTH directions to see if the bulb lights. If it lights in one direction and not the other, it's in the switch. If it doesn't light at all, you'll need a schematic to trace the fault.
The most likely problem is worn window motors. Remove the door panel but leave everything plugged in. HIt the switch and lightly tap on the motor with a hammer. If it starts to work, the motor is no good. If not, unplug the motor and put a test light across the two terminals. Watch the video at about 3:35 to see what I mean.
Where is the master control? My passenger side window and crank shaft posiiton sensor and sometimes the horn don't work. I have figured out the problem is in the wiring of my car. could you please help me figure out which part of wiring it might be?
Try tapping on the motor while holding the switch in the down position. If the motor begins to work, you'll need to replace it. It's worn out. If not, replace the motor with the test bulb as shown in the video. If the bulb lights in both directions, it's the motor. If not, you have an electrical circuit fault to find.
For the "express down" feature? Try this: With the window fully closed, hold the switch in the "full down" (second detent) position until the window is fully open and then hold it there for a few seconds more. Repeat with the window in the other direction. If that doesn't do it, you'll need to look up the procedure in a service manual...most auto parts stores carry them.
Thank you so much...I was tasked with helping my relative fix a power window problem..I live 1500 miles away ,so this was a phone in...After checking fuse , relays ,loose connections ...airs a last resort I checked youtube...found your video..1 minute later I was able to diagnose the problem....ugh ...lockout switch was engaged...ugh. Thank You for pointing out ,what should have obvious...
First off thank you for the great video on diagnosing and replacing power window motor. It helped me a ton to evaluate my issue as well as fix. I was able to determine my switch was bad. But now my driver side window is still not working. The switch is working and I also have power at the connection to the window motor. And tested motor separately and it works. So now I am wondering if the locking feature or safety feature is the issue. When installing a new switch do you need to retrain the window lock?
You don't say what kind of vehicle you are working on but I doubt that's the issue. The motor's polarity has to be reversed for it to change direction, so one side of the connector should have power in the "up" position and the other side should have power in the "down" position. Remember, too, it has to have a good ground on the opposite terminal. Try performing a voltage drop test on the circuit.
It's not stuck physically. It's caused by wear between the brushes and the motor's armature (typically). Just like a starter motor that won't engage unless you tap it. Replace the motor(s) or you'll be doing the work again soon.
Thank you for the response! I'm thinking that I'll just by the regulator and motor kit, and replace them both at the same time. That way I don't have to deal with something else going out on me later. Thanks again.
There is no frame to speak off to support the glass on the door, so you'll need to remove the door panel and check the window guides themselves for wear or breakage. Follow the service manual procedure for adjustment.
What make/model/year car are we talking about? Many systems use relays to operate the motors. That may be the click you're hearing and not a short at all.
First step: Operate the bad window with the switch and see if you see the interiors lights dimming at all. This indicates that, electrically, the circuit is working but the motor itself is stuck. Odds are, that's the problem.
I'm on the road and won't be getting back till after the holidays. I'll pull a schematic and see if I can point you in the right direction. Have you tried lowering the right side window with the passenger side switch?
Brandon, Does the interior light dim when you try to move the window up or down with the switch? Sounds like a motor issue if it won't move at all. Generally mechanical regulators don't jam and cable-types leave play in the glass. Follow the steps in the video!
Great Information" My problem seems to be a short,I can't locate.Only a click noise in the fuse box when I push the button.One cold morning both windows worked great.Then an hour later back to the click noise.No other sounds from either side ? Thanks
Hi! Thanks for your video! I have a Toyota Avalon '97 with both rear windows stuck up. When pressing the button I can hear a single click in the motor and the lights dim. I removed the door panel. Can't see anything wrong mechanically. Are the motors bad? I suspect nobody tried to open the rear windows in years. However, there is no rust... Any thoughts will be highly appreciated!
I have a 98' Ford F 150. Super cab, 4.6, V8. With the factory anti theft system.The clicking is coming from this square black module # 4.When I put my finger on it,while pushing the window button,It does a loud click each time I push.You can feel it vibrate. Thanks
what causes a window to keep going UP when u did not hold the button or it does not respond when you press the Down button? (power window with auto function, regulator has been replaced 3 times and motor was replaced the third time, and the first two the button was programed and the third it was NOT. and it broke again and snapped the regulator cable. again. what causes it not to stop! (chrysler sebring 4 door 2008)
Yea,but it was dead.Strange that this morning,My drivers switch worked for the passengers side a few times.Then stopped again.I just now removed the door panel,and am going to try to jump the motor,and check the door wires in the collar,if I can,lol.Enjoy the weekend"
1982 Chrysler LeBaron ; driver window motor and gear are good : but "bearings" in gear are busted to pieces ... Any advice on where to find replacement "bearings" ? They are not included in gear kits . Thanks Steve
How do you determine if it's the motor, or the scissors-type mechanism? '98 Park Avenue, driver's window goes up okay but has been slow going down, now won't go down at all without pushing down on it. I would think if the motor has power to move it one direction, it should have enough power to move it the other direction. We just replaced a broken glass in it, and lubed the channels with silicone and the gear and track with some of that PB Blaster penetrating oil. A couple of runs up and down and we could hear what sounded like glass chips getting ground up in the gears or something. That sound pretty much went away after a couple runs up & down. But as I said, the window was slow going down before this. Motor, or regulator?
Visually inspect the window regulator (that scissors mechanism) for wear on the guide bushings and dry tracks. You also may have a voltage drop issue in the circuit. If you can, compare current draw in both directions.
So I have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier. I heard they have plenty of window problems where the windows take a while to finally start rolling up again. I have that issue although my drivers side door has gotten to the point to where it doesn't want to roll up at all. The window is on track and it gets enough voltage when the button is pressed to go up or down. I've tried a brand new motor and tried rolling it up without it being installed and connected to the window and it rolled down but still didn't roll up. I've tried a brand new switch panel and it only rolled up half a centimeter and that's it. I've tried rocking the window. The passenger side and one of the rear windows are also starting to take a while to roll up. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Plenty of voltage measured how? Without a load on the circuit, simply having a test light light up or reading full battery voltage means very little. Try measuring voltage drop at the window motor while operating the motor to get a true measure of the electrical power available. I suspect a ground issue.
I have a 1996 Honda Civic coupe hx, the driver window stopped working completely a few months ago and won’t go up or down and the passenger side won’t go up, it will go up if I shit my driver side door twice, I had motors and regulators replaced. All fuses checked and switches checked. What could be the cause?
2002 Honda odyssey right hand front window. regulator rolls down as soon as it is plugged in without touching the switch and then sits there and clicks. The motor heats up. Wont roll up by the switch. Thought it was a bad motor but did it again with a second regulator and still the same . replaced the right switch, still happened. Replaced the left switch assembly with a used one. still doing it.. checked all wires and they look good.
Go to the motor and see if there is power and ground being applied all the time by simply plugging in test light to the connector. I suspect you have a shorted wire in the harness itself, likely near where the harness passes from the body to the door.
Hi,before i start ripping panel off..let me first ask you this ... i have a 2001 silverado and the driver window still works fine,but when i try to put passenger window down it sounds like a relay clicks inside the passenger door... i am original owner and have never messed with windows.... the passenger window has been used hardly at all,so the track and motor should be in way better shape than the drivers side... i drove this truck just me myself so i know... what could it be ? bad connection? is switch bad on that door? again it sounds like its trying to engage everytime i hit the button on my side or the button on that passenger door... just tell me what you think it is and i will start from there....thanks
The reason you're hearing a "click like there's a relay" is that there is a relay there - two actually. One for the "up" function and one for the "down" function. The question is now "Is the relay bad or the motor stuck/bad?" One way to test without pulling the door apart is to access the 25 amp circuit breaker in the interior fuse box and replace it with a fused jumper wire. I would then use an amp clamp to measure the current level when the window was operated. If the current is low, say 0.50 amps or so, then I know the relay is being powered but there is no current flowing on the motor side of the relay. If the current is higher - a few amps or more - then I would know that the relay closed and is sending voltage to the motor windings and the fault has to be mechanical - stuck motor or stuck window. The alternative is to remove the switch and check the operation of the relays the old-fashioned way using a schematic. Hope this helps.
I have an older model Galant and the driver window will only work after the door has been slammed fairly hard. It will remain working for a while but with no use, generally after a while it ceases to work. Any ideas?
The motor finally started working really well after intensive tapping (I tried tapping before but maybe not enough). Are you sure it needs to be replaced? My theory is that it wasn't used for many years and perhaps simply needs some lube... Is there a way to do it? Thanks a lot for your help!
My 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan passenger side power window lately start not moving in humid weather, neither with driver's switch nor it's. There is no clicking noise,it is dead. Please any help will appreciated. Thank you...
+Motor Age I want to thank you for your response, I did the test, yes you were right it is the motor it self exactly. Appreciate your time and knowledge.
Hi, can u help with my passenger door window? It only goes down but not up with using both window switches on driver and passenger. I confirmed it's not a motor issue already. Can you give me some pointers on what to test? Thx
Hi! Informative video!! I'm still a bit uncertain though. I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX. My rear passenger side window is noisy when operated. There have been a few times that it has gone down and when I try to put it back up it just won't go. I usually keep it locked so my toddler doesn't put it down and risk it getting stuck again. Oops. Forgot to lock it back and down it went. The window is secure when I jiggle it. When I go to put the window down, it goes down. When I go to put it up I hear a click, but the window doesn't go up. What do you think it is? And do you have any idea of what labor would be? Are we talking less than $100 or closer to $400? Thank you!!
Okay thank you so much! I'll check out that site! I always hate going to the shop. They always seem to have the most expensive report to give. And a few times they have made something out to be way worse that it needed to be.
I have a hyundai accent 2000 model.windows are not going up or down, I checked the motor and relay they are working fine.how to check if it is wiring or switch problem, ?
Install a test light across the motor connection on the harness side. When the switch is operated in either direction, the bulb should light up. Review the video for more information.
My power window in my passenger side is not working and I tried to see the fuse but it's fine do you think it's the motor? And is it possible to to move the driver motor to passenger motor to put it up?
Follow the steps outlined in the video to see if is is the motor or a problem in the circuit or switch. Do you see the dome light dim when you try to operate the window? WIll it go in one direction but not the other? And no, most motors are "left" or "right" and will not interchange side-to-side. HTH!
I have a Mitsubishi Galant 2003 and the drivers side window rolled down by itself and now it wont go back up. I tried rolling it down and roll it up to "fix it" but it stayed stuck down and now it wont come back up. I hear the motor (there is no light on my door so i cant tell) but i also hear as if something is stuck in there .
1992 Honda accord. Both back windows do not work at all. No action or sound when rear window control switches are engaged, no dimming in the lights either. front motors make rough ratcheting/scraping sound when switches are engaged. channels in the back seem fine. Also no action or sound when driver side switches for rear windows are engaged. Any thoughts?
I have a 2005 Mazda 3. The driver window goes down but will not go up, or it will go up after I have been trying for hours on end. I bought a used motor that was working fine and installed it but the same thing happens. I believe that it is the switch not supplying electricity to the motor. Am I on the right track?
Sounds like it. Wire a test light to the motor connector instead of the motor and operate the switch in both directions to see if the lamp lights up. I suspect you have worn/corroded contacts in the switch itself.
On my 1999 Chev Malibu, the driver's side window stopped working completely during the winter cold. All other windows work. I've looked at the switches and see nothing wrong. There is no sound at all when I press the switch. I'm guessing that means the motor is shot but I'm not sure.
hey I have a 96 civic ex coupe...both windows stopped working at the same time...theres no noise from the motor nor does the light dim...I replaced the master switch and still nothing...any tips?? I checked the fuses as well
Highlander issue is the the pass window will not got up sometimes. It justs stops. Then you wait a few minutes and it will work again I believe it is the case that this happens using either switch. Sooner or later it will stop working altogether. Help!
my window makes that crackly noise and i could manuel move it but wont go all the way up and my lights dim also does that mean i have to get everything new??
My driver's side front power window doesn't work. I rolled down just fine, but didn't roll up. However, I got it to roll up by pecking the button. It rolled up 1mm at a time! But it didn't work every time I pecked the button. Eventually, it would work and roll up all the way if I pressed the button and held it, and then repeated that process dozens of time until it decided to work. Now, it's not responding at all. The power button feels "mushy" and there's no "click" to it. The others click...?
WIndows that work sometimes and not others are typically caused by worn brushes/commutators in the motor and/or worn contacts in the switches or relays. Follow the steps in the video to pinpoint your problem. HTH!
My passenger side window and crank shaft position sensor and sometimes the horn don't work. I have figured out the problem is in the wiring of my car. could you please help me figure out which part of wiring it might be?
Those are three separate circuits. Start by choosing one and tackling it. You'll need a wiring diagram, a multimeter and a knowledge of electrical fundamentals to find the culprit.
Is there a part of the electrical system for the car that connects only these three circuits or at least these three? I have the wiring map but I can’t read it well.
@@fkhoshnasib Use the techniques in this video to determine why the window is not working first. I doubt the three are related but there could be a common ground. Look at our home page here on UA-cam for help in learning how to read the wiring diagram.
I have a 94 Chevy g20 Van. I replaced the switches and motor. Both window wasn’t working. Now the driver side is working but the passenger side won’t go down. When I press up I can hear the motor but nothing when I press down.
@@Yaadman_Serginho Just because you've replaced something doesn't mean its working. Start at the beginning. Access the motor and substitute it with a test bulb. Operate the master switch and see what the bulb does in both directions - same with the passenger switch. Then let me know and we'll review the wiring diagram and see what we need to focus on.
I have a 2005 Mazda 3 ( SP 2.3) and my windows will roll halfway down but then make a loud clicking noise. This first started on my sun roof and has been going on for about a month now. Also, my headlights do dim when I roll down my windows. Do I need a new motor? Is it best that I just take it into a repair shop?
If you're having multiple issues, you may have an electrical fault that is affecting all of them. Check the grounds on the car, and/or seek professional help.
hi,i own a honda civic 2002. my rear left window wont roll up when controlled from the driver side but would roll up when controlled from the rear left switch. what can be the cause ?
Many of the Chrysler products use a cable-type regulator that locks up and/or breaks. If you hear a "crunching" noise, it's the cable. No matter...the replacement comes as an assembly.
I have a 2002 Saturn Sl, the front Windows go down but will not go back up. I find myself playing with both Windows control to try and get them up. #Help
Follow the steps outlined in the shop manual to access the window motor. Disconnect the electrical connector and install a test light as demonstrated in the video. Operate the switch in both directions. If the bulb lights, the wiring and switch is OK. If not, and in only one direction, I'd suspect the switch.
Without hearing the noise for myself, it's hard to tell you exactly what's going on. From the information I have, it looks like a mechanical mechanism (no cable), but the only thing I can suggest is to pull the interior trim and visually inspect the mechanism.
My window sometimes goes up half way then slows, then jams... I can get it up by putting the window back down a few inches then it moves freely all the way up.. What could the problem be?
Hi, I have a 2005 F150 4 door crew cab. The left rear window rolls down but does not roll back up. The switch measures 13.7V when up or down is depressed. I swapped the switch with right rear and problem continues on left rear but right rear is okay. Voltages at the motor connector are also 13.7V. I replaced the regulator/motor assembly and issue continues. It rolls down but won't go up. The motor doesn't even try to move. I manually applied voltage to the motor (switched the polarity) in order to make the window roll up. Any idea what could be bad? Jorge
I'm willing to bet you're checking voltage with the connectors unplugged. The motor reverses direction by changing polarity. Try checking the voltage at the motor with everything hooked up. You should see voltage on one wire and next to nothing on the other, and that should reverse when you change directions on the switch. If you replaced the switch with a known good and the motor is new, it has to be a problem in the wiring between the two.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. Another thing I realized this morning is that there is no left rear window control (window up or down) using the switch from the driver's side. Again, the rear left switch only works for window down but not up. I'll be checking some voltages later today.
I'm having a similar issue with my Ford Expedition (2004). I rolled down the driver's side back window all of the way from the driver's side, but it wouldn't roll back up. I tried rolling it up with the actual driver's side back window switch, including pulling up while pressing up on the button. Nothing. Also tried holding both the driver's and back switches at the same time - nothing. Couldn't even hear a motor trying to work, no lights dimming. Finally, I held the driver's side and the back driver's side buttons (both on the driver's side window control unit) _up_ at the same time; the lights dimmed a little, and the window (begrudgingly) went up. Thankfully didn't have to do a tape job that night. What issue would you say this is? I noticed that only one of the switches on the driver's side window control unithad a backlight. I have issues with all of the other windows as well. I just got this car knowing it's had some problems but I'm worried to roll that window down - the "mechanic/salesman" guy at the dealership, which I bought this car from (as is, can't take it back) said not to mess with the window because he had to manually make it go up. I'm guessing the passenger window controls are provided power from the main driver's side switch, which connects to the fuse, to the battery? I've heard someone said it's bad contacts. Maybe bad wires? Might explain why only one switch has a backlight.
According to the schematic, the switches are in series with one another so the problem could be in either one. I would look for good power and ground from the main switch at the junction where it goes into the second switch first. Perhaps substitute a test light for the second switch and operate the main switch in both directions to see if the light comes on. Start there...hope this helps!
I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu a 4 cylinder All 4 windows won't work I replace the fuse still nothing. and to remind you I try to open Windows from all doors and they still won't work what could be the problem
Many late model vehicles use a body control computer to actuate a variety of systems, including power windows. You may need a scan tool capable of reading the OEM data to see what is causing your problem.
My driver side window on my 2004 Suzuki Forenza made a really loud RRRRRRRR when ever you tried putting it down or up. After a day or two the motor completely died out. and it won't go down. Does this mean I have to go to the dealer and ask them to replace the entire driver side window motor? By the way, Every other window in the car including the sun roof works fine. Please Help.
Yep, sounds like a motor problem. But no, you do NOT have to take it to a dealer to get a professional repair. Most independent shops should be able to handle it for you. Just select, and stick with, a good one!
I have a 99Firebird, The window goes p and down, BUT, when it gets all the way up and door opens, the window flops. There is so little room to see, I cant tell what the problem is. I cant pull window out. The felt guides are almost new. But when I open door and window is up, I literally have to hold it so it won't fall over?? Anyone have any thoughts?? Id appreciate it. Driving me crazy
The window on the driver side won`t work at all. I can`t recon I can hear the motor running either. But the strange thing is that all 3 other windows, which can be operated from the same panel seems to work perfect.. Most probably the motor for the window at the driver seat who is the problem here, I assume?
Never assume, test :-) You may have all the switches on one panel, but that doesn't mean the circuits are shared. Follow the steps outlined in the video to narrow down the problem.
On cars that automatically roll up the windows, you'll need to check the data inputs with an OE-equivalent scan tool. The control module must not be seeing that the windows are open, or it is unable to activate the motors.
Chron Carrington Since both windows are affected, the very first thing i would check is the fuse. Look in your owner's manual to find out where the fuse is located. If that is OK, you'll need to do some basic electrical troubleshooting.
Chron Carrington Then the circuit has failed somewhere. You'll need to verify that there is power to the motor, and then that there is ground to the motor. Once you've determined which is missing, you can use the wiring diagram to isolate where the open is.
94 crown vic...! front drivers side window... i've replaced the window regulator, went through 3 brand new motors and still the same every time...! the window rolls down quick and smooth but labors and then stops completely mid way on the up... its been a complete mystery to me.! i've lubed the regulator, i have even bought a brand new switch and still the window stops mid way... and the back windows? thats a whole other story... my main concern is the mystery problem with the front drivers side... i know of nothing else to purchase for the fix...
Perform a voltage drop test on the motor circuit. Sounds like when the power/ground roles are reversed, a hidden problem is causing less power to be available. Check out our library for several videos on how to perform this test.
Motor Age thanks man for taking the time to reply... i will defiantly check out and search for the video in your library to learn how to preform this test.! by the way the motor gets really hot when trying to get it to go up
Motor Age i think i have solved the mystery after reading your last reply to me... i decided to do a simple test myself by un-bolting the the window from the regulator (slider) and to see if it would go up and down at the same speed and it worked correctly.! now, i then slid the window up and down by hand to see if it was getting in a bind somewhere... my findings is this... slides down smooth but on the up it takes abit of strength to get it up through the grooves.! its like the grooves are squeezed to tight on the window...! and yes the window is correctly in the grooves... now the fix?
quick question .My pw motor for my 2001 Alero driver door works fine ,regulater fine .the part I need are the holders that actually hold the window glass. Here is my question,is there an interchangeable replacement available at auto part stores that I can use/order that can save me the need to buy the assembly package or the availability and search of ecology ? Anybody?
Try tapping on the motor while holding the switch in the down position. If the motor begins to work, you'll need to replace it. It's worn out. If not, replace the motor with the test bulb as shown in the video. If the bulb lights in both directions, it's the motor. If not, you have an electrical circuit fault to find.
You saved me a lot of hassle. I was about to take apart my door to troubleshooting my power window failure when I came across this video.
My problem was due to the lock switch being activated :-)
Thanks for your help ..
Remember when we were kids and had to spend countless hours working on/through problems with our cars with very little to no guidance? Thank the Lord for the internet and guys like you! My son just purchased a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII and although the engine is strong, the electronics need some serious help, including both windows! Passenger doesn't roll down(off track) and the drivers won't roll up(motor works). So, I am looking at the switch and wiring. Love the bulb tester, I'm making one now.
You may have more than one issue, First, make sure the main switch on the driver's master switch panel is turned "on". Then access one of the rear window motors and substitute the motor for a test bulb like the one shown in the video. Operate the switches for that motor in BOTH directions to see if the bulb lights. If it lights in one direction and not the other, it's in the switch. If it doesn't light at all, you'll need a schematic to trace the fault.
The most likely problem is worn window motors. Remove the door panel but leave everything plugged in. HIt the switch and lightly tap on the motor with a hammer. If it starts to work, the motor is no good. If not, unplug the motor and put a test light across the two terminals. Watch the video at about 3:35 to see what I mean.
Thank you so much! I've just checked, and as you mentioned it, the master control was off, so that's why only the driver's window was working.
Denis Morissette
Hello John Fitzgerald Kennedy
I thought you were killed
Where is the master control? My passenger side window and crank shaft posiiton sensor and sometimes the horn don't work. I have figured out the problem is in the wiring of my car. could you please help me figure out which part of wiring it might be?
Try tapping on the motor while holding the switch in the down position. If the motor begins to work, you'll need to replace it. It's worn out. If not, replace the motor with the test bulb as shown in the video. If the bulb lights in both directions, it's the motor. If not, you have an electrical circuit fault to find.
For the "express down" feature? Try this: With the window fully closed, hold the switch in the "full down" (second detent) position until the window is fully open and then hold it there for a few seconds more. Repeat with the window in the other direction. If that doesn't do it, you'll need to look up the procedure in a service manual...most auto parts stores carry them.
Thank you so much...I was tasked with helping my relative fix a power window problem..I live 1500 miles away ,so this was a phone in...After checking fuse , relays ,loose connections ...airs a last resort I checked youtube...found your video..1 minute later I was able to diagnose the problem....ugh ...lockout switch was engaged...ugh. Thank You for pointing out ,what should have obvious...
Dudeareno Rodent o
Glad it turned out to be that simple!
First off thank you for the great video on diagnosing and replacing power window motor. It helped me a ton to evaluate my issue as well as fix. I was able to determine my switch was bad. But now my driver side window is still not working. The switch is working and I also have power at the connection to the window motor. And tested motor separately and it works. So now I am wondering if the locking feature or safety feature is the issue. When installing a new switch do you need to retrain the window lock?
You don't say what kind of vehicle you are working on but I doubt that's the issue. The motor's polarity has to be reversed for it to change direction, so one side of the connector should have power in the "up" position and the other side should have power in the "down" position. Remember, too, it has to have a good ground on the opposite terminal. Try performing a voltage drop test on the circuit.
It's not stuck physically. It's caused by wear between the brushes and the motor's armature (typically). Just like a starter motor that won't engage unless you tap it. Replace the motor(s) or you'll be doing the work again soon.
On many models, that's the only way to get one or the other. Good luck!!
Thank you for the response! I'm thinking that I'll just by the regulator and motor kit, and replace them both at the same time. That way I don't have to deal with something else going out on me later. Thanks again.
Good Afternoon Pete Meier motor age Take care and have a great day 👍
Thanks 👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Most likely the window motor is going bad. It is binding and heating up (stops working) then cools enough to allow some movement.
There is no frame to speak off to support the glass on the door, so you'll need to remove the door panel and check the window guides themselves for wear or breakage. Follow the service manual procedure for adjustment.
What make/model/year car are we talking about? Many systems use relays to operate the motors. That may be the click you're hearing and not a short at all.
First step: Operate the bad window with the switch and see if you see the interiors lights dimming at all. This indicates that, electrically, the circuit is working but the motor itself is stuck. Odds are, that's the problem.
I'm on the road and won't be getting back till after the holidays. I'll pull a schematic and see if I can point you in the right direction. Have you tried lowering the right side window with the passenger side switch?
Super helpful ! Solid lesson on the fundamentals !! Thanks !!
Very helpful, important problems discussed, thats like a MDT.
Brandon, Does the interior light dim when you try to move the window up or down with the switch? Sounds like a motor issue if it won't move at all. Generally mechanical regulators don't jam and cable-types leave play in the glass. Follow the steps in the video!
Part 2: It is not unusual for wiring to break where the harness passes from the doors back to the body.
Thank you
I love how he literally googled something for us
Great Information" My problem seems to be a short,I can't locate.Only a click noise in the fuse box when I push the button.One cold morning both windows worked great.Then an hour later back to the click noise.No other sounds from either side ? Thanks
Let us know how it turns out!
Hi! Thanks for your video! I have a Toyota Avalon '97 with both rear windows stuck up. When pressing the button I can hear a single click in the motor and the lights dim. I removed the door panel. Can't see anything wrong mechanically. Are the motors bad? I suspect nobody tried to open the rear windows in years. However, there is no rust... Any thoughts will be highly appreciated!
I have a 98' Ford F 150. Super cab, 4.6, V8. With the factory anti theft system.The clicking is coming from this square black module # 4.When I put my finger on it,while pushing the window button,It does a loud click each time I push.You can feel it vibrate. Thanks
what causes a window to keep going UP when u did not hold the button or it does not respond when you press the Down button? (power window with auto function, regulator has been replaced 3 times and motor was replaced the third time, and the first two the button was programed and the third it was NOT. and it broke again and snapped the regulator cable. again. what causes it not to stop! (chrysler sebring 4 door 2008)
thanks to you i learn a lot
Yea,but it was dead.Strange that this morning,My drivers switch worked for the passengers side a few times.Then stopped again.I just now removed the door panel,and am going to try to jump the motor,and check the door wires in the collar,if I can,lol.Enjoy the weekend"
1982 Chrysler LeBaron ; driver window motor and gear are good : but "bearings" in gear are busted to pieces ... Any advice on where to find replacement "bearings" ? They are not included in gear kits . Thanks Steve
How do you determine if it's the motor, or the scissors-type mechanism? '98 Park Avenue, driver's window goes up okay but has been slow going down, now won't go down at all without pushing down on it.
I would think if the motor has power to move it one direction, it should have enough power to move it the other direction.
We just replaced a broken glass in it, and lubed the channels with silicone and the gear and track with some of that PB Blaster penetrating oil.
A couple of runs up and down and we could hear what sounded like glass chips getting ground up in the gears or something.
That sound pretty much went away after a couple runs up & down. But as I said, the window was slow going down before this.
Motor, or regulator?
Visually inspect the window regulator (that scissors mechanism) for wear on the guide bushings and dry tracks. You also may have a voltage drop issue in the circuit. If you can, compare current draw in both directions.
So I have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier. I heard they have plenty of window problems where the windows take a while to finally start rolling up again. I have that issue although my drivers side door has gotten to the point to where it doesn't want to roll up at all. The window is on track and it gets enough voltage when the button is pressed to go up or down. I've tried a brand new motor and tried rolling it up without it being installed and connected to the window and it rolled down but still didn't roll up. I've tried a brand new switch panel and it only rolled up half a centimeter and that's it. I've tried rocking the window. The passenger side and one of the rear windows are also starting to take a while to roll up. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Plenty of voltage measured how? Without a load on the circuit, simply having a test light light up or reading full battery voltage means very little. Try measuring voltage drop at the window motor while operating the motor to get a true measure of the electrical power available. I suspect a ground issue.
Thanks, Must be the motor.Cause I directly jumped it to the battery and nothing,even when I reversed the cables,just a few sparks.
I have a 1996 Honda Civic coupe hx, the driver window stopped working completely a few months ago and won’t go up or down and the passenger side won’t go up, it will go up if I shit my driver side door twice, I had motors and regulators replaced. All fuses checked and switches checked. What could be the cause?
I have an 05 Honda Odyssey and the left rear window (on the sliding door) will only come down an inch or so. any idea could cause this issue?
2002 Honda odyssey right hand front window. regulator rolls down as soon as it is plugged in without touching the switch and then sits there and clicks. The motor heats up. Wont roll up by the switch. Thought it was a bad motor but did it again with a second regulator and still the same . replaced the right switch, still happened. Replaced the left switch assembly with a used one. still doing it.. checked all wires and they look good.
Go to the motor and see if there is power and ground being applied all the time by simply plugging in test light to the connector. I suspect you have a shorted wire in the harness itself, likely near where the harness passes from the body to the door.
Motor Age Thank You so much I will check that.
Hi,before i start ripping panel off..let me first ask you this ... i have a 2001 silverado and the driver window still works fine,but when i try to put passenger window down it sounds like a relay clicks inside the passenger door... i am original owner and have never messed with windows.... the passenger window has been used hardly at all,so the track and motor should be in way better shape than the drivers side... i drove this truck just me myself so i know... what could it be ? bad connection? is switch bad on that door? again it sounds like its trying to engage everytime i hit the button on my side or the button on that passenger door... just tell me what you think it is and i will start from there....thanks
The reason you're hearing a "click like there's a relay" is that there is a relay there - two actually. One for the "up" function and one for the "down" function. The question is now "Is the relay bad or the motor stuck/bad?" One way to test without pulling the door apart is to access the 25 amp circuit breaker in the interior fuse box and replace it with a fused jumper wire. I would then use an amp clamp to measure the current level when the window was operated. If the current is low, say 0.50 amps or so, then I know the relay is being powered but there is no current flowing on the motor side of the relay. If the current is higher - a few amps or more - then I would know that the relay closed and is sending voltage to the motor windings and the fault has to be mechanical - stuck motor or stuck window.
The alternative is to remove the switch and check the operation of the relays the old-fashioned way using a schematic.
Hope this helps.
I have an older model Galant and the driver window will only work after the door has been slammed fairly hard. It will remain working for a while but with no use, generally after a while it ceases to work. Any ideas?
Classic signs of a motor problem!
The motor finally started working really well after intensive tapping (I tried tapping before but maybe not enough). Are you sure it needs to be replaced? My theory is that it wasn't used for many years and perhaps simply needs some lube... Is there a way to do it? Thanks a lot for your help!
My 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan passenger side power window lately start not moving in humid weather, neither with driver's switch nor it's. There is no clicking noise,it is dead. Please any help will appreciated. Thank you...
+badiyan Just follow the steps in the video to isolate the cause. I'm guessing it's a motort - common issue with the older Dodge vans.
+Motor Age I want to thank you for your response, I did the test, yes you were right it is the motor it self exactly. Appreciate your time and knowledge.
My 2008 Ford Escape the Window fell all the way down into the door when the door was opened... Any suggestions on repairs?
I'd be willing to bet it uses a cable-type mechanism...and the cable has broken.
Hi, can u help with my passenger door window? It only goes down but not up with using both window switches on driver and passenger. I confirmed it's not a motor issue already. Can you give me some pointers on what to test? Thx
What is the year, make and model of the vehicle?
Hi! Informative video!! I'm still a bit uncertain though.
I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX. My rear passenger side window is noisy when operated. There have been a few times that it has gone down and when I try to put it back up it just won't go. I usually keep it locked so my toddler doesn't put it down and risk it getting stuck again. Oops. Forgot to lock it back and down it went. The window is secure when I jiggle it. When I go to put the window down, it goes down. When I go to put it up I hear a click, but the window doesn't go up. What do you think it is? And do you have any idea of what labor would be? Are we talking less than $100 or closer to $400?
Thank you!!
Few things come to mind - switch, electrical connection, possible motor. Use this resource to find a reputable shop near you: autorepair.iatn.net/
Okay thank you so much! I'll check out that site! I always hate going to the shop. They always seem to have the most expensive report to give. And a few times they have made something out to be way worse that it needed to be.
I have a hyundai accent 2000 model.windows are not going up or down, I checked the motor and relay they are working fine.how to check if it is wiring or switch problem, ?
Install a test light across the motor connection on the harness side. When the switch is operated in either direction, the bulb should light up. Review the video for more information.
My power window in my passenger side is not working and I tried to see the fuse but it's fine do you think it's the motor? And is it possible to to move the driver motor to passenger motor to put it up?
Follow the steps outlined in the video to see if is is the motor or a problem in the circuit or switch. Do you see the dome light dim when you try to operate the window? WIll it go in one direction but not the other? And no, most motors are "left" or "right" and will not interchange side-to-side. HTH!
i got 2003 ford taurus ses rear windows wont roll down not the lock out switch i dont hear the motor trying to do any thing
oh and none of switches work
I have a Mitsubishi Galant 2003 and the drivers side window rolled down by itself and now it wont go back up. I tried rolling it down and roll it up to "fix it" but it stayed stuck down and now it wont come back up. I hear the motor (there is no light on my door so i cant tell) but i also hear as if something is stuck in there .
1992 Honda accord. Both back windows do not work at all. No action or sound when rear window control switches are engaged, no dimming in the lights either. front motors make rough ratcheting/scraping sound when switches are engaged. channels in the back seem fine. Also no action or sound when driver side switches for rear windows are engaged. Any thoughts?
I have a 2005 Mazda 3. The driver window goes down but will not go up, or it will go up after I have been trying for hours on end. I bought a used motor that was working fine and installed it but the same thing happens. I believe that it is the switch not supplying electricity to the motor. Am I on the right track?
Sounds like it. Wire a test light to the motor connector instead of the motor and operate the switch in both directions to see if the lamp lights up. I suspect you have worn/corroded contacts in the switch itself.
On my 1999 Chev Malibu, the driver's side window stopped working completely during the winter cold. All other windows work. I've looked at the switches and see nothing wrong. There is no sound at all when I press the switch. I'm guessing that means the motor is shot but I'm not sure.
Install a test lamp as shown in the video to first verify that the motor is, indeed, the problem. Make sure that the connections are nice and clean.
Nice video, very informative
hey I have a 96 civic ex coupe...both windows stopped working at the same time...theres no noise from the motor nor does the light dim...I replaced the master switch and still nothing...any tips?? I checked the fuses as well
Check power to the switch assembly. A common area of failure in older cars is where the wiring passes from the body to the door. Bet a wire is broken!
Highlander issue is the the pass window will not got up sometimes. It justs stops. Then you wait a few minutes and it will work again I believe it is the case that this happens using either switch. Sooner or later it will stop working altogether. Help!
my window makes that crackly noise and i could manuel move it but wont go all the way up and my lights dim also does that mean i have to get everything new??
Sounds like you have a cable-style regulator. Some come with the motor, some don't. Check your local parts store or dealer.
My driver's side front power window doesn't work. I rolled down just fine, but didn't roll up. However, I got it to roll up by pecking the button. It rolled up 1mm at a time! But it didn't work every time I pecked the button. Eventually, it would work and roll up all the way if I pressed the button and held it, and then repeated that process dozens of time until it decided to work. Now, it's not responding at all. The power button feels "mushy" and there's no "click" to it. The others click...?
I have a ford explorer. the drivers power window sometimes do not work and now the rear right window does the same. What could it be?
WIndows that work sometimes and not others are typically caused by worn brushes/commutators in the motor and/or worn contacts in the switches or relays. Follow the steps in the video to pinpoint your problem. HTH!
My passenger side window and crank shaft position sensor and sometimes the horn don't work. I have figured out the problem is in the wiring of my car. could you please help me figure out which part of wiring it might be?
Those are three separate circuits. Start by choosing one and tackling it. You'll need a wiring diagram, a multimeter and a knowledge of electrical fundamentals to find the culprit.
Is there a part of the electrical system for the car that connects only these three circuits or at least these three? I have the wiring map but I can’t read it well.
@@fkhoshnasib Use the techniques in this video to determine why the window is not working first. I doubt the three are related but there could be a common ground. Look at our home page here on UA-cam for help in learning how to read the wiring diagram.
I have a 94 Chevy g20 Van. I replaced the switches and motor. Both window wasn’t working. Now the driver side is working but the passenger side won’t go down. When I press up I can hear the motor but nothing when I press down.
What switch are you using to operate the passenger side - that driver's, the passenger's or both?
@@MotorAgeMagazine I replaced both switches. I replaced the Circuit relay also but I’m not sure what to do now
@@Yaadman_Serginho Just because you've replaced something doesn't mean its working. Start at the beginning. Access the motor and substitute it with a test bulb. Operate the master switch and see what the bulb does in both directions - same with the passenger switch. Then let me know and we'll review the wiring diagram and see what we need to focus on.
I have a 2005 Mazda 3 ( SP 2.3) and my windows will roll halfway down but then make a loud clicking noise. This first started on my sun roof and has been going on for about a month now. Also, my headlights do dim when I roll down my windows. Do I need a new motor? Is it best that I just take it into a repair shop?
If you're having multiple issues, you may have an electrical fault that is affecting all of them. Check the grounds on the car, and/or seek professional help.
hi,i own a honda civic 2002. my rear left window wont roll up when controlled from the driver side but would roll up when controlled from the rear left switch. what can be the cause ?
I would initially suspect the driver's switch, and test it to see if it is working properly.
i have a 1999 plymouth voyager. the passenger window will not go down.you can hear and feel the window jump like it wants to go down
Many of the Chrysler products use a cable-type regulator that locks up and/or breaks. If you hear a "crunching" noise, it's the cable. No matter...the replacement comes as an assembly.
I have a 2002 Saturn Sl, the front Windows go down but will not go back up. I find myself playing with both Windows control to try and get them up. #Help
Follow the steps outlined in the shop manual to access the window motor. Disconnect the electrical connector and install a test light as demonstrated in the video. Operate the switch in both directions. If the bulb lights, the wiring and switch is OK. If not, and in only one direction, I'd suspect the switch.
I have a 2002 camaro THE drivers side window tolls down fine but when you try to roll it up it makes a Loud grinding noise
Without hearing the noise for myself, it's hard to tell you exactly what's going on. From the information I have, it looks like a mechanical mechanism (no cable), but the only thing I can suggest is to pull the interior trim and visually inspect the mechanism.
@@MotorAgeMagazine It sounds like the gear grinding when u try to roll it up
My window sometimes goes up half way then slows, then jams... I can get it up by putting the window back down a few inches then it moves freely all the way up.. What could the problem be?
Jen,
Either the motor is heating up and binding, or there is an alignment issue with the guides.
Hi,
I have a 2005 F150 4 door crew cab. The left rear window rolls down but does not roll back up. The switch measures 13.7V when up or down is depressed. I swapped the switch with right rear and problem continues on left rear but right rear is okay. Voltages at the motor connector are also 13.7V. I replaced the regulator/motor assembly and issue continues. It rolls down but won't go up. The motor doesn't even try to move. I manually applied voltage to the motor (switched the polarity) in order to make the window roll up. Any idea what could be bad?
Jorge
I'm willing to bet you're checking voltage with the connectors unplugged. The motor reverses direction by changing polarity. Try checking the voltage at the motor with everything hooked up. You should see voltage on one wire and next to nothing on the other, and that should reverse when you change directions on the switch. If you replaced the switch with a known good and the motor is new, it has to be a problem in the wiring between the two.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. Another thing I realized this morning is that there is no left rear window control (window up or down) using the switch from the driver's side. Again, the rear left switch only works for window down but not up. I'll be checking some voltages later today.
I'm having a similar issue with my Ford Expedition (2004). I rolled down the driver's side back window all of the way from the driver's side, but it wouldn't roll back up.
I tried rolling it up with the actual driver's side back window switch, including pulling up while pressing up on the button. Nothing. Also tried holding both the driver's and back switches at the same time - nothing. Couldn't even hear a motor trying to work, no lights dimming.
Finally, I held the driver's side and the back driver's side buttons (both on the driver's side window control unit) _up_ at the same time; the lights dimmed a little, and the window (begrudgingly) went up. Thankfully didn't have to do a tape job that night.
What issue would you say this is? I noticed that only one of the switches on the driver's side window control unithad a backlight. I have issues with all of the other windows as well. I just got this car knowing it's had some problems but I'm worried to roll that window down - the "mechanic/salesman" guy at the dealership, which I bought this car from (as is, can't take it back) said not to mess with the window because he had to manually make it go up.
I'm guessing the passenger window controls are provided power from the main driver's side switch, which connects to the fuse, to the battery? I've heard someone said it's bad contacts. Maybe bad wires? Might explain why only one switch has a backlight.
According to the schematic, the switches are in series with one another so the problem could be in either one. I would look for good power and ground from the main switch at the junction where it goes into the second switch first. Perhaps substitute a test light for the second switch and operate the main switch in both directions to see if the light comes on. Start there...hope this helps!
I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu a 4 cylinder All 4 windows won't work I replace the fuse still nothing. and to remind you I try to open Windows from all doors and they still won't work what could be the problem
Many late model vehicles use a body control computer to actuate a variety of systems, including power windows. You may need a scan tool capable of reading the OEM data to see what is causing your problem.
Need help with my O5 mustang. The windows go down by its self when I exit my vehicle. Email me any tips.
Typically, that is a sign of a failing window motor.
Tyank kyou
My driver side window on my 2004 Suzuki Forenza made a really loud RRRRRRRR when ever you tried putting it down or up. After a day or two the motor completely died out. and it won't go down. Does this mean I have to go to the dealer and ask them to replace the entire driver side window motor? By the way, Every other window in the car including the sun roof works fine. Please Help.
Yep, sounds like a motor problem. But no, you do NOT have to take it to a dealer to get a professional repair. Most independent shops should be able to handle it for you. Just select, and stick with, a good one!
Motor Age Magazine Okay, Thank you so much! I'll try and go tomorrow! Thanks again!
SuperGhost453 My pleasure...
my grand am passenger side window starts to go up then goes crooked and jams have to hold straight with hands while someone else does button
That's a problem in the window channels then. Missing weather striping or adjustment.
mazda demio 1999 passgengers window not working thought a fuse but all other windows work. help
You'll need to access the window motor in the affected door as shown in the video. Follow the steps to isolate where the problem is located....
I have a 99Firebird, The window goes p and down, BUT, when it gets all the way up and door opens, the window flops. There is so little room to see, I cant tell what the problem is. I cant pull window out. The felt guides are almost new. But when I open door and window is up, I literally have to hold it so it won't fall over?? Anyone have any thoughts?? Id appreciate it. Driving me crazy
i have a nissan primera 1990 and my window has crashed half way up , it wont budge ? help !!!
Where or how would I get a test light and adapter?
You should be able to find a test light at any auto parts store, or make your own from an old tail light or headlight assembly.
The window on the driver side won`t work at all. I can`t recon I can hear the motor running either. But the strange thing is that all 3 other windows, which can be operated from the same panel seems to work perfect.. Most probably the motor for the window at the driver seat who is the problem here, I assume?
Never assume, test :-)
You may have all the switches on one panel, but that doesn't mean the circuits are shared. Follow the steps outlined in the video to narrow down the problem.
i had etios..when i locked my car..if there are any windows opened they are not automatically closing..
On cars that automatically roll up the windows, you'll need to check the data inputs with an OE-equivalent scan tool. The control module must not be seeing that the windows are open, or it is unable to activate the motors.
When I shut my car off the power switch is making a buzzing noise
Need a tad bit more information to help - like what kind of car are we talking about? Make, model, year??
I have a 1995 Camaro z28. My windows want go up or down. I have install new switches and window motors
Please help me
Chron Carrington Since both windows are affected, the very first thing i would check is the fuse. Look in your owner's manual to find out where the fuse is located. If that is OK, you'll need to do some basic electrical troubleshooting.
I did all the troubleshooting and still not working. The only I can get them to work is hotwire them to the battery.
Chron Carrington Then the circuit has failed somewhere. You'll need to verify that there is power to the motor, and then that there is ground to the motor. Once you've determined which is missing, you can use the wiring diagram to isolate where the open is.
94 crown vic...! front drivers side window... i've replaced the window regulator, went through 3 brand new motors and still the same every time...! the window rolls down quick and smooth but labors and then stops completely mid way on the up... its been a complete mystery to me.! i've lubed the regulator, i have even bought a brand new switch and still the window stops mid way... and the back windows? thats a whole other story... my main concern is the mystery problem with the front drivers side... i know of nothing else to purchase for the fix...
Perform a voltage drop test on the motor circuit. Sounds like when the power/ground roles are reversed, a hidden problem is causing less power to be available. Check out our library for several videos on how to perform this test.
Motor Age thanks man for taking the time to reply... i will defiantly check out and search for the video in your library to learn how to preform this test.! by the way the motor gets really hot when trying to get it to go up
MrBonez That's a sign that something is causing the motor/window glass to bind. Recheck the positioning of the regulator.
Motor Age i think i have solved the mystery after reading your last reply to me... i decided to do a simple test myself by un-bolting the the window from the regulator (slider) and to see if it would go up and down at the same speed and it worked correctly.! now, i then slid the window up and down by hand to see if it was getting in a bind somewhere... my findings is this... slides down smooth but on the up it takes abit of strength to get it up through the grooves.! its like the grooves are squeezed to tight on the window...! and yes the window is correctly in the grooves... now the fix?
MrBonez Sounds like you're close to having this one fixed!
quick question .My pw motor for my 2001 Alero driver door works fine ,regulater fine .the part I need are the holders that actually hold the window glass. Here is my question,is there an interchangeable replacement available at auto part stores that I can use/order that can save me the need to buy the assembly package or the availability and search of ecology ? Anybody?
Check with local salvage yards, or perhaps a parts store specializing in those small, hard to find, parts.
Try tapping on the motor while holding the switch in the down position. If the motor begins to work, you'll need to replace it. It's worn out. If not, replace the motor with the test bulb as shown in the video. If the bulb lights in both directions, it's the motor. If not, you have an electrical circuit fault to find.
i have a 1999 toyota corrola and all of my windows wount work but my doors do lock with the master switch?
Don't let that fool you. They are two entirely different circuits. Follow the steps shown in the video to isolate your problem.