Exercises EVERY Climber Should Be Doing | ft. Ollie Torr
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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About The Guest:
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training.
We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more! You can learn more about Ollie at latticetraining.com
Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimb...
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A great side quest for any climber is the ability to overhead press their bodyweight. It tends to not be a high interference lift but the returns in investment are really high.
That's interesting. Two question if I may:
1. What are the benefits?
2. How far am I from this goal in your opinion if I can do 3 sets of 7 reps with 50% of my bodyweight? I never tested my one rep max
* Looks down *, "Yea that's probably 5 inches or less, I'll measure it later" 😂
Do a ton of Lu raises and really try to control the weight on the way down
Damn, I've got 15cm pretty much on the button. I think this is the first strength or flexibility benchmark for climbing I've ever hit, and I don't even train it!
Same, now if I could frog my legs more than 45°, that would be swell :D
@@ayuminor Yep! When I show people my frog or pancake stretch, they tend to say something like "Oh your jeans must be restricting you". I wish :D
with the knee to wall test do you have to keep your heel on the ground the whole time?
yes. heel needs to touch the ground.
don't get too caught up on the actual measurement from the wall relative to other people since foot length vs shin length affects this. the main thing is just to try to decrease the ankle angle and just improve your own foot distance from the wall.
@@deci appreciate the answer mate, I was doing it with heel lifted and was like "wth this is easy" lol
@@MrWill830 Try "tibialis raises" along with both standing (straight knees) and seated (flexed knees) calf raises/stretch
Homelander telling me what to do
Strong shoulders beget strong fingers
Whats so surprising about Ollie is that he understand the anatomy so well, but has the absolute worst exercise selection.
How so?
It seems to me that he is recommending stuff people are missing. Like everybody is doing pull ups, there is no value on saying it again and again
@wiesono2221 he's right that those muscles need training but, his exercise selection for those muscles is far from optimal.
Climbers often do not understand basic training science when it comes to strength vs hypertrophy vs endurance.
@@OrionDuCros what alternatives would you suggest
@@OrionDuCros also interested in better exercises - feel free to share
Hey, @@OrionDuCros What exercises work better? Can you share some suggestions?