Great video, FYI Halo has now added a positive bolt lock system for the ring gear bolts so they cant loosen. Additionally it was determined the locking pins were too hard causing them to fracture. They have brought the hardness specification down to fix the lock pin breakage issue.
That's a really well made diff, I can't believe how good it looks after seeing how it's been used the last couple of years! Mind you, I also really enjoy your throttle control.
That's what happens when the ring gear,bolts weren't cleaned thoroughly during assembly. Even if you use loctite and torque correctly it doesn't work if it wasn't clean and dried before oil was added.
Love longer videos man! Y’all keep having fun! I’d love to go with y’all but idk if a broken back could handle it.. so guess I will just keep hitting the like button!
The issue isn’t loc tite. Those bolts have nord-lock washers. The issue is they aren’t torqued enough. And probably not biting into the hardened steel.
Do a couple of quick front diff oil changes till everything is broken in. Run stupid good quality diff oil. I always stop to put it in four wheel even though it says shift on the fly. I prefer our sticky Western rocks to your slippery ones. Sandstone provides some incredible traction. You look at something and say no way, then crawl right up with virtually no tire spin.
I had that happen twice with my halo 30 with the up graded bolts with loctite high strength but after the second time I did research and used loctite 272 and holding so far and I made sure I used brake cleaner on bolts and ring gear to make sure was clean every time
Great video. Always glad to watch you guys work on your machines. Such good information presentation as you proceed through the video. Josh or Billy - I want to go with another machine. No turbo, just 1000 polaris or maybe a Kaw. I do like the 60 -64 inch. I know the Kaw is wider but possibly would go with it, depending on your feedback. Like the Trails and Rocks but wondering if maybe I'd be better off going with pro xp and build with winch and wheels and have a stronger built machine. I found a new pro xp 6000 cheaper then trails and rock. I've heard the kaw is a better crawler than the T & R but what I've seen it's the other way around. Thank you for your excellent videos.
Makes perfect sense why it wasn't going in. Bolts were holding the fork from locking in. I'd get new compression washers, kinda like a lock washer, spray out the threads with brake kleen and red locktite, should be good
I have a pro xp (sport), stock suspension and tires and I’ll say I definitely struggled on trail 12 ride. After that I want to upgrade to long travel and probably zillas. Aside from gear reduction would you say 32’s would be a good size tire to go with? Was leaning towards orb and zbros dual rates . Looking for some input. Everyone around me had 35’s and clearance for days
Personal opinion here which is what I believe you are looking for, I have a turbo s, I have 32’s and I have considered going to 35’s but I don’t want to have to do the gear reduction, imo the bigger the tires means bigger traction which also means bigger repair bills
I do Believe that 35’s would help in some scenarios but let’s be realistic, how often do you take your rig up the stuff that these guys go up? I think that the long travel and zillas will Get you up majority of the stuff, very seldom do I get myself in a situation where I wish that I was on 35’s. Good luck with whatever you decide and ride safe👍
If you had this problem again, or if someone else suspected this problem, would it be possible to pull one side of the diff case off while mounted in the machine and inspect the ring gear bolts? Such as on the trailer at camp?
If you had a bad back and needed something that was a plush ride on the Wisconsin trails, but could also roll at the Badlands off road Park(quarry included), what would you pick? Also, I think you may have forgot the flashlight link?
Thanks for catching that! heres link : www.olightstore.com/s/11KB7S Also, Thats a tough one honestly because i havent rode in many 64 wide machines. Id say a dynamix pro xp if budget isnt a issue but thats just my opinion.
@@BlownBudgetOffroad Coming from Hondas, I find the lack of engine braking odd on the Polaris and Can-Am.. but I don't think my back could handle more than a few hours of a Talon...
We had a built Talon R, did the full shock therapy treatment and it still killed my back. On trips it was a day of riding and a day of back pain following. We loved everything about it but couldn’t get past the harsh ride. Sold it for a 2022 X3 XRS and the difference is unbelievable. These machines are not even in the same class of ride comfort and capability. Now I can ride day after day with no back pain. Sure I miss shifting but it’s hard to put in words how drastically different the ride quality is.
I replied on the tackett video about the Halo. Good to know as I just got mine 6 weeks ago. When you guys come down need to let me know. Would love riding with you guys, not so interested in being in a youtube video. Me and my brother have quit the setup. Velocity on LW Fab susp, Pro XP on ORB, Pro R just clutch upgrades, and in the shop is our Max X with Halo, S3 susp and double shear kits with electronic sway bar, also from Halo and waiting on our Fortin Alternator. Korey at Loose Moose can vouch for me. I only harass him when I want parts.
Anyone else think it's ridiculous to have to take both sides of the suspension components to release a single side on the X3? What benefits does that serve, compared to the effort of disassembly when it's time to repair a single small failure? Which extends to the hassle of having to remove the complete CT gusset kit because the stock chassis material is so weak and thin it requires it if you do anything beyond light trail riding, so the diff can't come out unless you remove all the suspension components interlinked into the system. I hope canam goes to a more standard center hinge point system, had to pull all that stuff apart a few times, and it's so much more complicated and time consuming than it needs to be for what feels like no reason with a poorly executed design for the user.
Link to the flashlight for those interested! : www.olightstore.com/s/11KB7S
Thanks for watching everyone!
Thanks for the shoutout man! Glad I could help you out! Windrock vids are gonna be sick!- Brandon
you bet brother
Great video, FYI Halo has now added a positive bolt lock system for the ring gear bolts so they cant loosen. Additionally it was determined the locking pins were too hard causing them to fracture. They have brought the hardness specification down to fix the lock pin breakage issue.
Actual informative information ....well presented and explained......real guys with real machines. Love your vids keep it up!
Glad you like them!
Always good to see shop videos, whether it’s trip prep or repairs. And can’t wait to see the windrock footage!
Coming soon!
Why the hell would they sell a 6 pin model when it was clearly made for 8 pins?
Glad you guys are getting more sponsors.
was wondering the same thing
was wondering the same thing
That's a really well made diff, I can't believe how good it looks after seeing how it's been used the last couple of years! Mind you, I also really enjoy your throttle control.
Awesome when a repair goes smoothly like that!
That's what happens when the ring gear,bolts weren't cleaned thoroughly during assembly. Even if you use loctite and torque correctly it doesn't work if it wasn't clean and dried before oil was added.
Love longer videos man! Y’all keep having fun! I’d love to go with y’all but idk if a broken back could handle it.. so guess I will just keep hitting the like button!
Love the content. The follow up work in the shop is a plus.
Thank you!
I appreciate these types of in depth videos. Thank you !
I love how you explain everything you do and how everything works great video
I appreciate that!
The issue isn’t loc tite. Those bolts have nord-lock washers. The issue is they aren’t torqued enough. And probably not biting into the hardened steel.
Do a couple of quick front diff oil changes till everything is broken in.
Run stupid good quality diff oil.
I always stop to put it in four wheel even though it says shift on the fly.
I prefer our sticky Western rocks to your slippery ones. Sandstone provides some incredible traction. You look at something and say no way, then crawl right up with virtually no tire spin.
I had that happen twice with my halo 30 with the up graded bolts with loctite high strength but after the second time I did research and used loctite 272 and holding so far and I made sure I used brake cleaner on bolts and ring gear to make sure was clean every time
thats not exciting to read lol hope mines good!
great video but to save some time next time you only need to remove the pass side rear bolt for the upper arm to get the Diff out. :)
You guys ever thought of tack welding the bolts and pins so they don’t come out ?
Great video. Always glad to watch you guys work on your machines. Such good information presentation as you proceed through the video. Josh or Billy - I want to go with another machine. No turbo, just 1000 polaris or maybe a Kaw. I do like the 60 -64 inch. I know the Kaw is wider but possibly would go with it, depending on your feedback. Like the Trails and Rocks but wondering if maybe I'd be better off going with pro xp and build with winch and wheels and have a stronger built machine. I found a new pro xp 6000 cheaper then trails and rock. I've heard the kaw is a better crawler than the T & R but what I've seen it's the other way around. Thank you for your excellent videos.
Love your shop. So much coveting happening over here… Nice work
Thanks man appreciate that!
Makes perfect sense why it wasn't going in. Bolts were holding the fork from locking in. I'd get new compression washers, kinda like a lock washer, spray out the threads with brake kleen and red locktite, should be good
Nevermind, new bolt kit with washers and red loctite 👍
Do you guys have any plans to hit wellsville Ohio
CRAP. My 33 spline Halo 30 isn't locking either....frick....great video, sucks that this is gonna cost me even more money now.
What type of lift do you have and how tall are your walls in the Shop?
I have a pro xp (sport), stock suspension and tires and I’ll say I definitely struggled on trail 12 ride. After that I want to upgrade to long travel and probably zillas. Aside from gear reduction would you say 32’s would be a good size tire to go with? Was leaning towards orb and zbros dual rates . Looking for some input. Everyone around me had 35’s and clearance for days
Personal opinion here which is what I believe you are looking for, I have a turbo s, I have 32’s and I have considered going to 35’s but I don’t want to have to do the gear reduction, imo the bigger the tires means bigger traction which also means bigger repair bills
I do Believe that 35’s would help in some scenarios but let’s be realistic, how often do you take your rig up the stuff that these guys go up? I think that the long travel and zillas will Get you up majority of the stuff, very seldom do I get myself in a situation where I wish that I was on 35’s. Good luck with whatever you decide and ride safe👍
Good information, planning on doing a halo eventually and that’s helpful knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
If you had this problem again, or if someone else suspected this problem, would it be possible to pull one side of the diff case off while mounted in the machine and inspect the ring gear bolts? Such as on the trailer at camp?
Great explanation! I need to find out if mine is the first or second generation.
Thank you for sharing
Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🦃🦃
🇺🇲🙏🏆
Same to you!
If you had a bad back and needed something that was a plush ride on the Wisconsin trails, but could also roll at the Badlands off road Park(quarry included), what would you pick? Also, I think you may have forgot the flashlight link?
Thanks for catching that! heres link : www.olightstore.com/s/11KB7S
Also,
Thats a tough one honestly because i havent rode in many 64 wide machines. Id say a dynamix pro xp if budget isnt a issue but thats just my opinion.
@@BlownBudgetOffroad Coming from Hondas, I find the lack of engine braking odd on the Polaris and Can-Am.. but I don't think my back could handle more than a few hours of a Talon...
We had a built Talon R, did the full shock therapy treatment and it still killed my back. On trips it was a day of riding and a day of back pain following. We loved everything about it but couldn’t get past the harsh ride. Sold it for a 2022 X3 XRS and the difference is unbelievable. These machines are not even in the same class of ride comfort and capability. Now I can ride day after day with no back pain. Sure I miss shifting but it’s hard to put in words how drastically different the ride quality is.
Make sure you use an oil tolerant loktite.
Torque wrench, hmmm what’s that?
Very Educational Thanks for sharing this video
Did you put a locker in your talon
I replied on the tackett video about the Halo. Good to know as I just got mine 6 weeks ago. When you guys come down need to let me know. Would love riding with you guys, not so interested in being in a youtube video. Me and my brother have quit the setup. Velocity on LW Fab susp, Pro XP on ORB, Pro R just clutch upgrades, and in the shop is our Max X with Halo, S3 susp and double shear kits with electronic sway bar, also from Halo and waiting on our Fortin Alternator. Korey at Loose Moose can vouch for me. I only harass him when I want parts.
Oneida Tennessee BTW, next to Huntsville.
How many miles is on the x3? And diff?
That diff ❤
Nice fix
Great video man 💯👍
Appreciate it
You need to rebuild an old YXZ and turn Josh loose!!!
maybe one day. that would be cool
@@BlownBudgetOffroad 👍🏻👍🏻
Link to the flashlight?
thanks for catching that, sorry.
www.olightstore.com/s/11KB7S
Keep it up! 💯
Anyone else think it's ridiculous to have to take both sides of the suspension components to release a single side on the X3?
What benefits does that serve, compared to the effort of disassembly when it's time to repair a single small failure?
Which extends to the hassle of having to remove the complete CT gusset kit because the stock chassis material is so weak and thin it requires it if you do anything beyond light trail riding, so the diff can't come out unless you remove all the suspension components interlinked into the system.
I hope canam goes to a more standard center hinge point system, had to pull all that stuff apart a few times, and it's so much more complicated and time consuming than it needs to be for what feels like no reason with a poorly executed design for the user.
i 100% agree. One of my biggest complaints with the x3 is the front end design for working on them. The rear with 3 radius rods isnt ideal either.
When I tighten my bolts..they call it the "Hicks grunt" 8 out of 10 I break bolts lol
Just zip tie that flashlight straight to the camera lol
I heard a boy blew his out up there on 16 ahead of us at windrock. Yall see that?
a halo 30? i seen a diff detonate but wasnt a halo 30
@@BlownBudgetOffroad no I heard just a regular smart lok but that would have been interesting to see either way
Oh, yes we seen a diff in a x3 literally break in half lol wasn’t sure if it was smart lok or visco with locker
Olight aka a shiny hand grenade lol
Awesome when a repair goes smoothly like that!
It sure is!