How did you sand that and retain the dark coating? Just because you used a light grit? I have an idea for a project I'd like to keep the dark coating, but use a silicon bronze to make the welds pop out.
Great job but. I wanted to know how durable is the surface, will a fingernail remove or scratch the surface, thanks I’m trying to spray a stainless steel with a machine finish but with basic rustoleum 2x clear coat it just comes right off by scratching it, thanks again
once the clear coat cures for several months, particularly if its in the sun, it will be very durable, but when its fresh, it will scratch pretty easily
Can you add some yellow Keda Dye to the polyurethane over aluminium in the last step? It could shine lemon -very beautidul- if posible... I saw a lemon colored ....polyurethane? ... on aluminium in an artist Keith Haring sculpture at a museum, which looked very nice.
Great video - I'm bringing a product to market, it's made of 6063 aluminium. The product is only about 6 inches in length so not a big job. It comes off the CNC mirrored as you'd expect. I scotch brite the finish down a couple of notches using red to deburr it then bring it back up a tad with grey to take out the brushed metal look. I then hand apply paint to the shallow engravings on all surfaces and take off the excess with acetone. I'm looking to clear coat it to protect the paint I've applied. Not too glossy - satin -> matte would be idea. I've been using Pro-cote clear, finish is ok but not very scratch resistant and light pressure from a fingernail will take off the finish and mark it. I've tried Testors Dull-cote matte which brings out a speckled finish that looks good again but since it’s a matte I believe I’m right in saying that it doesn’t provide a uniform surface layer of protection like a gloss/semi gloss would. I’ve tried matte on top of gloss, looks great but again no durability. I think I need a hardener. I'll probably use some prevalve mixes till I get a compressor. Any recommendations for flat/clear mixes + hardener? Had any luck with 2-part epoxys? (Powder coating/anodising/chemical etching isn't an option sadly). Any recommendations would be fantastic,
clear anodizing for aluminum is the most durable. any other clear will scratch off with your fingernail. automotive clear that's been cured in the sun for 5 years would be pretty hard, but not when its fresh/new
You mention Urekem and I checked and they have an interior non-UV clear coat. For similar projects like a stainless steel desk for an office, would you recommend that? I am new to paint but figured that UV capability was to prevent base coat discoloring in cars, but an inside job with no base coat wouldn't need it, thus saving some money. Thanks.
Interesting video! Im restoring a VW Vanagon T3, and want a rough metal finish on it. Could the method you show here withstand salty roads in the winter? Im considering to paint the lower part of the body and under the car with black bed-liner, and bare-metal / patina look'ish, on upper part of the body. Any tips for a car that will be running on salty Norwegian winter roads? Many thanks in advance!
Awesome video and very informative! I have two questions, does the sanding not scratch the surface of the sheet metal, and also how have you sealed between the sheet metal and angle iron to stop water penetration? Thanks in advance
yes, the sanding scratches the surface, you can sand by hand and push and pull in one motion to create a brushed look. the sanding scratches is what the clear sticks to, if its perfectly smooth it wont stick. I didnt seal between the angle iron as this was not going to be outside
ive used adhesion promotor on polished aluminum and shot it with 1k base and it worked a treat. it was just a test panel and after about a month of curing it was super hard to scratch off
very nice cabinet. Always like the raw industrial look of cleared metal . Ive seen some projects where they added some random character with a scotch brite roloc disc then cleared. Turned out nice!
Yep, COOOOL look. I am doing all of my welding fixture tables and workshop area the same look. What about making a BIG ultrasonic cleaner? Otherwise, I use straight acetone.........strips everything. Thanks again, David
Gary that dame out awesome! ! I really don't know who out there is doing the legitimate metal fab...like this and paint all at the same time. .just killing it..nice work! CJ
Hey CJ, hope you and the family had a Merry Christmas sir! Thanks for the comment, glad you liked the video. Btw, I am finally going to be heading back over to ATL some time in Jan, so will try to get with you when I am there, maybe we could meet for lunch one day...
turbocobra Happy Holidays to your fam too! For sure hit me when u get in town I got some great spots to go to! I am pretty flexible so let me know..see you soon! ! CJ
Hey John! Good to hear from you. Lol, yes exactly. After adhesion promotor you can spray all your candy's, pearl, flake, then clear! I just realized I somehow became unsubscribed to you...
Hi Gary, I am stripping paint off of some old lockers, like the kind employees use at work, or a school type locker. I'm shooting for the industrial, swirled steel look........like sanding in small rotations with a hand held power sander. I have all the paint off now, but I'm thinking I should clear coat it so I turned to UA-cam and it brought me here. I'm looking for any helpful hints, but mainly my question is do I need to worry about the clear coat changing the appearance of that shiny steel? Does your process darken it much, or at all?
If you use the process and use a matte/satin clear coat, it will sort of dull the brightness of the metal. If you use a high gloss automotive clear (not recommended) it will keep it very bright. The matte agent to dull the finish has a slight haze to it. You can see for yourself in the video what it looked like before and after i started. Good luck with your project!
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra hi sir did you hear the vehicle jeepney ?? we use only galvanized sheets on them but i wanted to clear coat it what can you advice to me?? thank you very much
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra yeah no! You didn’t show a before and after. You just sowed a instructional how to with no posted results. This is great and all but I can’t see the before and after so who knows if they actually wanna use your instructional advice as we don’t know what it turns out to look like. Lame
Great to see you "breaking the rules" AND getting a class result. I'm about to give it a try. Thanks!
How did you sand that and retain the dark coating? Just because you used a light grit? I have an idea for a project I'd like to keep the dark coating, but use a silicon bronze to make the welds pop out.
i am thinking of using it for undercar after sand blaster , it is good for it?
can applied these step to the chrome polish metal?
how has it held up?
perfect, gets used daily, looks the same as when it was painted in this video
@@turbocobra thank u
That cabinet looks great.
Thank you sir!
why not to use etch clear, it will prevent corrosion
Love the look of raw steel! Great looking piece!
Thank you it has held up well over the last 2 years since it was clearcoated
Great job but. I wanted to know how durable is the surface, will a fingernail remove or scratch the surface, thanks
I’m trying to spray a stainless steel with a machine finish but with basic rustoleum 2x clear coat it just comes right off by scratching it, thanks again
once the clear coat cures for several months, particularly if its in the sun, it will be very durable, but when its fresh, it will scratch pretty easily
Can you add some yellow Keda Dye to the polyurethane over aluminium in the last step? It could shine lemon -very beautidul- if posible... I saw a lemon colored ....polyurethane? ... on aluminium in an artist Keith Haring sculpture at a museum, which looked very nice.
I really dig the industrial look!
Top notch work
Thanks man, appreciate it..
Great video - I'm bringing a product to market, it's made of 6063 aluminium. The product is only about 6 inches in length so not a big job. It comes off the CNC mirrored as you'd expect. I scotch brite the finish down a couple of notches using red to deburr it then bring it back up a tad with grey to take out the brushed metal look. I then hand apply paint to the shallow engravings on all surfaces and take off the excess with acetone. I'm looking to clear coat it to protect the paint I've applied. Not too glossy - satin -> matte would be idea.
I've been using Pro-cote clear, finish is ok but not very scratch resistant and light pressure from a fingernail will take off the finish and mark it. I've tried Testors Dull-cote matte which brings out a speckled finish that looks good again but since it’s a matte I believe I’m right in saying that it doesn’t provide a uniform surface layer of protection like a gloss/semi gloss would. I’ve tried matte on top of gloss, looks great but again no durability. I think I need a hardener. I'll probably use some prevalve mixes till I get a compressor. Any recommendations for flat/clear mixes + hardener? Had any luck with 2-part epoxys? (Powder coating/anodising/chemical etching isn't an option sadly).
Any recommendations would be fantastic,
clear anodizing for aluminum is the most durable. any other clear will scratch off with your fingernail. automotive clear that's been cured in the sun for 5 years would be pretty hard, but not when its fresh/new
I'm diggin' it.
Thank you sir.
You mention Urekem and I checked and they have an interior non-UV clear coat. For similar projects like a stainless steel desk for an office, would you recommend that? I am new to paint but figured that UV capability was to prevent base coat discoloring in cars, but an inside job with no base coat wouldn't need it, thus saving some money. Thanks.
Interesting video!
Im restoring a VW Vanagon T3, and want a rough metal finish on it. Could the method you show here withstand salty roads in the winter?
Im considering to paint the lower part of the body and under the car with black bed-liner, and bare-metal / patina look'ish, on upper part of the body.
Any tips for a car that will be running on salty Norwegian winter roads?
Many thanks in advance!
Awesome video and very informative! I have two questions, does the sanding not scratch the surface of the sheet metal, and also how have you sealed between the sheet metal and angle iron to stop water penetration? Thanks in advance
yes, the sanding scratches the surface, you can sand by hand and push and pull in one motion to create a brushed look. the sanding scratches is what the clear sticks to, if its perfectly smooth it wont stick. I didnt seal between the angle iron as this was not going to be outside
awesome work Gary! We are going to be trying a clear 2 part epoxy on the aluminum bed floor of wrongside here pretty soon.
Dang! who makes that? I figured someone would eventually make one since you can get the epoxy glue's that are clear.
Shut Yer Face Garage Cool just ordered a quart of the satin. not a bad price considering how unique of a product it is, but $35 for shipping! yikes!
The shipping is crazy. $40 for the quart kit up here
I hate Google. Why did it switch my account. Geez.
And Jeff from photo finish gets credit for finding this stuff. He told me about it. Shhhh
It's been 4 years, how has the cabinet held up? Any rust/spider webbing?
its held up great, perfect finish just as it was when i did it
great vid Gary
So we can used bulldog in metal which is designed for plastic. And it work good too ?
ive used adhesion promotor on polished aluminum and shot it with 1k base and it worked a treat. it was just a test panel and after about a month of curing it was super hard to scratch off
I could Clearly see it.
Lol, your just saying that because I said the word "clearly" in the video. Did you not think this one was C00l?
Looks good love the finish see ya :-)
Thanks man, appreciate it.
Turned out great man, love that metal look
thanks man, yea I like the raw metal look also...
cool
Hey, good to see you, thanks man.
very nice cabinet. Always like the raw industrial look of cleared metal . Ive seen some projects where they added some random character with a scotch brite roloc disc then cleared. Turned out nice!
Thanks man, yea, I like the look of it also. I have another filing cabinet that has the random grinder marks in it, I like that look also.
Yep,
COOOOL look. I am doing all of my welding fixture tables and workshop area the same look. What about making a BIG ultrasonic cleaner? Otherwise, I use straight acetone.........strips everything.
Thanks again,
David
Nice.
Thanks George!
Gary that dame out awesome! ! I really don't know who out there is doing the legitimate metal fab...like this and paint all at the same time. .just killing it..nice work! CJ
Hey CJ, hope you and the family had a Merry Christmas sir! Thanks for the comment, glad you liked the video. Btw, I am finally going to be heading back over to ATL some time in Jan, so will try to get with you when I am there, maybe we could meet for lunch one day...
turbocobra Happy Holidays to your fam too! For sure hit me when u get in town I got some great spots to go to! I am pretty flexible so let me know..see you soon! ! CJ
I like your robot arm- there's a lot of skill in that spraying :)
Very nice Gary, so the candy would go between the promoter and the clear i guess? :-) Inspiring stuff i'm telling you !!
Hey John! Good to hear from you. Lol, yes exactly. After adhesion promotor you can spray all your candy's, pearl, flake, then clear! I just realized I somehow became unsubscribed to you...
Hi Gary, I am stripping paint off of some old lockers, like the kind employees use at work, or a school type locker. I'm shooting for the industrial, swirled steel look........like sanding in small rotations with a hand held power sander. I have all the paint off now, but I'm thinking I should clear coat it so I turned to UA-cam and it brought me here. I'm looking for any helpful hints, but mainly my question is do I need to worry about the clear coat changing the appearance of that shiny steel? Does your process darken it much, or at all?
If you use the process and use a matte/satin clear coat, it will sort of dull the brightness of the metal. If you use a high gloss automotive clear (not recommended) it will keep it very bright. The matte agent to dull the finish has a slight haze to it. You can see for yourself in the video what it looked like before and after i started. Good luck with your project!
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra hi sir did you hear the vehicle jeepney ?? we use only galvanized sheets on them but i wanted to clear coat it what can you advice to me?? thank you very much
Thanks for the advice!
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra yeah no! You didn’t show a before and after. You just sowed a instructional how to with no posted results. This is great and all but I can’t see the before and after so who knows if they actually wanna use your instructional advice as we don’t know what it turns out to look like. Lame
Damn nice!
Thanks Greg!
Industrial patio furniture
So this works im ttying to seal my aluminum sign for outside and want it to last for years please help
looks good
yo whyd u thin ur clear?
Because that clear calls for it. It's a 6:1:1 Mix Ratio per the instructions
6:1? damn thats weird
is it any good?
А защита для глаз где??!) I'm Russian, I do not know English. translate it himself.