Bless your heart. I haven’t used our Polaris for over 4 months. I refuse and can’t physically jam on the brake to start it. I’ve ordered the part long ago. It’s been sitting on a shelf. My husband and I will take care of this tomorrow, thanks to you. My husband will be watching this!
Thanks buddy - great straightforward video. Fixing mine this evening - dealer just gave me the new part with no hassle. Enjoyed a good laugh at your reaction to the dropped washer. 😂
Thanks for the post my went from working perfectly to dead left me stranded out in the timber wasn't sure where it was I seen ur video and was in a jam so I pulled the electrical connector off and put a jump wire in it so I didn't have to call for a ride 2 miles back into the trees from the road thanks again for the video and info!
I had a little knowledge of how to change the switch as well as using a metal bread tie as a backup to start it in middle of Nowhere. I was never sure exactly what to do step by step. Now, I know. I agree, there should be a reengineering of the switch. Always a problem. My Polaris dealer said the same about not bleeding the brake system afterwards. Not enough fluid leaking out. You are correct with your video, in my opinion.
Thanks for this - fixed my starting issue on my 2019 XP1000 BackCountry Edition. It had started acting up around 8000KM and I thought it was brake pad related... been bothering me for the past 2000KM but not any more!
Great video. I replaced mine today on my 2020 RZR Turbo S and it worked like a charm. I was having to press on brake pedal very firm and almost to the floor to get it to start before replacement 👍
Great video. Follow up: Also found out from more research that the recent brake switch #4014262 has a high failure rate and has gone back to a #4014225 which has a pig tail. I expect that it will arrive within the next days. We shall see if it's any better. For others info, our Polaris was stick way back in the woods. Shorted across the brake wire contacts with a paper clip to get it started, remove the paper clip and was able to get it back to the garage. I wouldn't recommend leaving a short across the contacts
Extremely well done video sir. I just ordered a new “brake safety switch” for my machine also. After researching online blogs and everything I could find most people pointed me in a non OEM direction. Got mine coming from RangerWerx LLC. Supposed to be a better than factory part and it was $89.99. I don’t have it yet so I cannot review it but if it doesn’t work properly I’ll come back and edit this comment. I appreciate how thorough your video was and the tech tip from Polaris about the gravity bleed. Edit: Have had the switch on for 5 months and zero hiccups. Definitely a good buy.
@@madstoneoutdoors3934 So far so good. Only put it on two days ago then let it sit overnight. No issues with soft pedal or weak brakes. Then it cranked right up with just minimal pressure on the pedal like it should be.
Just ordered the switch from Toxic21..the billing is RangerWerxLLC. mine is for a 2021 xp1000, had 4000 miles on it but everyone said dont put in a OEM or youll be doing it again
Update..Just put everything back together with the new Switch from Toxic 21. Let it sit overnight before using the brake and its all good. Not even any pressure on the pedal and it starts up with good brake lights.
Thanks for all the help. It worked great. I actually ordered one from Amazon. We’ll see how it holds up. Use the pencil idea too. But my fluid did not leak out. Maybe because I did not remove the cap before removing the precious switch. Great video!
Yep, our 2021 Polaris wouldn't turn over. No brake lights which meant either the pressure switch or a wiring error. Enjoyed your video and will first check the wiring by shorting the pins. But I feel your right - the weak point in the system is the switch. Waiting for a switch. Thanks for your video!!!
Thanks for the video. My Ranger 570 has less than 30hrs on it and the switch has gone bad. Unplugged the connector and jumpered the wires to verify that the switch is the problem. Left the jumper in place until I can replace it. Eliminates the safety feature of having the brake depressed for a start, but also allows you to use the UTV.
@@jamesdavis559you only need to jumper the switch to start, once it’s started you can plug the harness back in to the switch that way you don’t burn your brake lights out
Judging by your original finger lock connection position compared to the reconnecting of the harness with the finger lock position of the new switch, it appears you need to tighten the switch a tad more? The pencil idea was great! I know I will be chasing washers too. ;)
Mine “turned over” and fired up without any issues. Before replacing the switch it wouldn’t even click unless I was pressing super hard on the brake pedal… I haven’t heard of any others that has starting problems after replacing the switch.
Did you reuse the same washers? I was just wondering if the rubber on the inside gets damaged taking them off to where they may leak when you put them back on.
If you have to press hard (and harder and harder) on the brake pedal to make it start… it’s the pressure switch. Very common problem - and could eventually leave you stranded. Easy repair - hope the video helps!
I’ve been told that the brake pressure switch is also what activates the brake lights, is part of the diagnostic system (detects worn brake pads and failures) and that bypassing this switch can / will put your machine into “creep” (safety / idle only) mode. I don’t know how much of that is true, but personally, I’d rather not risk it… thanks
Bless your heart. I haven’t used our Polaris for over 4 months. I refuse and can’t physically jam on the brake to start it. I’ve ordered the part long ago. It’s been sitting on a shelf. My husband and I will take care of this tomorrow, thanks to you. My husband will be watching this!
Glad it helped... Were you able to get yours started?
thank you- you saved me so much time diagnosing what was wrong with ours. this was very helpful!!!!!
Thanks for the comment - you’re welcome - glad it helped!!
Great video! Sure appreciate you taking the time to get this documented!
Glad you liked it! UA-cam has given me soooo much help over the years - it’s nice to pay it back a little.
Great video, did the trick. You have a natural talent for clear, unscripted explanation. Thx!
Thank you - very kind!
Thanks buddy - great straightforward video. Fixing mine this evening - dealer just gave me the new part with no hassle. Enjoyed a good laugh at your reaction to the dropped washer. 😂
Thanks for the post my went from working perfectly to dead left me stranded out in the timber wasn't sure where it was I seen ur video and was in a jam so I pulled the electrical connector off and put a jump wire in it so I didn't have to call for a ride 2 miles back into the trees from the road thanks again for the video and info!
Thank you! these machines have too many sensors and different components to figure out so I appreciate you making this video!!!
You’re welcome - glad it helped!
Thank you - this was very helpful - you save me a ton of hassle figuring this all out.
Very welcome - glad it helped you!
I had a little knowledge of how to change the switch as well as using a metal bread tie as a backup to start it in middle of Nowhere. I was never sure exactly what to do step by step. Now, I know. I agree, there should be a reengineering of the switch. Always a problem. My Polaris dealer said the same about not bleeding the brake system afterwards. Not enough fluid leaking out. You are correct with your video, in my opinion.
Thanks - glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this - fixed my starting issue on my 2019 XP1000 BackCountry Edition. It had started acting up around 8000KM and I thought it was brake pad related... been bothering me for the past 2000KM but not any more!
You're welcome - glad it helped!
Great video. I replaced mine today on my 2020 RZR Turbo S and it worked like a charm. I was having to press on brake pedal very firm and almost to the floor to get it to start before replacement 👍
Great video. Follow up: Also found out from more research that the recent brake switch #4014262 has a high failure rate and has gone back to a #4014225 which has a pig tail. I expect that it will arrive within the next days. We shall see if it's any better.
For others info, our Polaris was stick way back in the woods. Shorted across the brake wire contacts with a paper clip to get it started, remove the paper clip and was able to get it back to the garage.
I wouldn't recommend leaving a short across the contacts
Thanks so much. Saved me from buying a $229 battery. This was so much help.
Extremely well done video sir. I just ordered a new “brake safety switch” for my machine also. After researching online blogs and everything I could find most people pointed me in a non OEM direction. Got mine coming from RangerWerx LLC. Supposed to be a better than factory part and it was $89.99. I don’t have it yet so I cannot review it but if it doesn’t work properly I’ll come back and edit this comment. I appreciate how thorough your video was and the tech tip from Polaris about the gravity bleed.
Edit: Have had the switch on for 5 months and zero hiccups. Definitely a good buy.
Thanks for the compliment - glad it helped! Also interested to hear how the RangerWerx part holds up.
@@madstoneoutdoors3934 So far so good. Only put it on two days ago then let it sit overnight. No issues with soft pedal or weak brakes. Then it cranked right up with just minimal pressure on the pedal like it should be.
Just ordered the switch from Toxic21..the billing is RangerWerxLLC. mine is for a 2021 xp1000, had 4000 miles on it but everyone said dont put in a OEM or youll be doing it again
@@rogerhobbs5192 I recall that was the same dude I bought it from. Fixed my issue and no problems since.
Update..Just put everything back together with the new Switch from Toxic 21. Let it sit overnight before using the brake and its all good. Not even any pressure on the pedal and it starts up with good brake lights.
Thanks for all the help. It worked great. I actually ordered one from Amazon. We’ll see how it holds up. Use the pencil idea too. But my fluid did not leak out. Maybe because I did not remove the cap before removing the precious switch. Great video!
Yep, our 2021 Polaris wouldn't turn over. No brake lights which meant either the pressure switch or a wiring error. Enjoyed your video and will first check the wiring by shorting the pins.
But I feel your right - the weak point in the system is the switch. Waiting for a switch.
Thanks for your video!!!
Thanks for the video. My Ranger 570 has less than 30hrs on it and the switch has gone bad. Unplugged the connector and jumpered the wires to verify that the switch is the problem. Left the jumper in place until I can replace it. Eliminates the safety feature of having the brake depressed for a start, but also allows you to use the UTV.
Forgot to say, the brake lights will be on while jumper is in place, but once again it will let you use the UTV.
@@jamesdavis559you only need to jumper the switch to start, once it’s started you can plug the harness back in to the switch that way you don’t burn your brake lights out
@@kurtiskohn8912 That is correct. Just a pain to keep installing the jumper. I have a new pressure switch in hand. Thanks
Good job and step by step explanation! Thanks
Thanks Col. Dave!
Awesome video. Appreciate the solid effort in less than ideal conditions!
Thanks!
Judging by your original finger lock connection position compared to the reconnecting of the harness with the finger lock position of the new switch, it appears you need to tighten the switch a tad more? The pencil idea was great! I know I will be chasing washers too. ;)
Lol, thanks for the comments!
Great video. Big help to me. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comment - glad it helped!
Great video, very helpful!
Thank you
Thank you for making this video!
You’re welcome - thanks for the comment!
How long do I wait before I test it? Do I leave it sitting with the cap off? How many hours? Thanks
Thanks for the video!! One question though, did your polaris fire up the next day with no problems?
Mine “turned over” and fired up without any issues. Before replacing the switch it wouldn’t even click unless I was pressing super hard on the brake pedal… I haven’t heard of any others that has starting problems after replacing the switch.
Thanks for the feedback....
Nice job on the video, did everything work ok after letting sit over night, with no air in the lines?
Did you reuse the same washers? I was just wondering if the rubber on the inside gets damaged taking them off to where they may leak when you put them back on.
Thanks! About to do mine tmrw.. I would have screwed that up.
Great video, thank you.
You’re very welcome!
Great video
Thanks much.
I have the same issue on a 2019 XP1000.
Anyone try the aftermarket version?
Thanks for letting us know that the brake bleeding isn't necessary!
Glad it helped!
Thanks buddy! Thumbs up!
Can it just be bypassed with a button?
Same problem here. Thanks for the video.. I am assuming it worked?
Yes, it worked for me. Glad to hear the video helped!
Thank you!
Thank You
You're very welcome... I hope it helped!
Followup - did you have to bleed your brakes the next day or were they ok ?
No brake bleeding necessary… I only waited about 6 hours and they were fine (no issues at all).
what was it doing or not doing for you to determine it was pressure switch ? I’m thinking i might have same issue .
If you have to press hard (and harder and harder) on the brake pedal to make it start… it’s the pressure switch. Very common problem - and could eventually leave you stranded. Easy repair - hope the video helps!
Brakes go down to floor and it won’t start. i’ll check it out !
All you have to do is unplug that plug and put a small jumper across the plug and it bypasses it..
I’ve been told that the brake pressure switch is also what activates the brake lights, is part of the diagnostic system (detects worn brake pads and failures) and that bypassing this switch can / will put your machine into “creep” (safety / idle only) mode. I don’t know how much of that is true, but personally, I’d rather not risk it… thanks
Has anyone found a way to bypass this switch?
Unplug the cord and put a jumper across it