Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
for those commenting about "oh it will leak now blah blah blah ...." - this is meant as an alternative to buying an entire new unit. I have converted mine just like the video & i have to add freon about once a year for $9 bucks, vs a new refrigerator for $1000. ...so slow leak and pay 9 bucks a year or go out and buy a new refrigerator ..... you decide.
A trick a repair man told me he uses is he has a special dye that he adds to the freon. He then later takes a backlight and the dye will show him where the leak is
This might be the best no bullshit no filler video i have ever seen great edit to the creator or whoever did this makes me want to attempt fixing my parents fridge thats not cooling 100 percent.
Just came across this video, I have been teaching myself how to work on old fridges and more lately vending machines. I think this video will be key to helping me when I find cooling issues. Thank you!!
Thank you first for the amazing video. It was very informative but didn't waste my time with a bunch of unnecessary Mumbo jumbo! I wish everyone thought like this!
No refrigerant in the system, where did it leak out at. Before you put refrigerant back into service you need to: 1. Put some dye refrigerant in and find that leak, or use some Co2 and pressurize it and use a gas sniffer to find the leak. You can buy a sniffer cheap at Harbor Freight or on line. 2. Seal the leak. If it's a really small leak or if it up in the box coils, you can use some stop leak and that may do the trick. 3. Pull a vacuum on the system and let it sit for an hour to make sure it has no leaks. You can rent the vacuum pump from an auto parts store, free. You put ~ $180.00 dollar equipment deposit down and you get it back when you bring the pump back. 4. Fill it with at least the recommended amount of refrigerant. Use refridgerant that has oil in it, since you don't know how much oil leaked out. If you don't do those steps you may be back in there in a few days to a year, depending on how bad the leak is. Also clean all the coils, as you mentioned. Other than that good video, clean and helpful. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@RogerPack Any of them will usually work if the leak is real slow. My leak was so slow it would take a year for it to make a difference. So it worked the first time I used it. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
I just ordered this valve on Amazon for $10. I got a freezer for free since it does not completely cool. Hopefully in a few days I will have a working $10 freezer. Thank you.
Brother!! Easy and clear instructions. The music was a nice touch. Even knew when to lower the music levels when you're talking so we can hear you. A lot of content providers put music in the video but don't lower it and sometimes you can't even hear them
Dude, you’re awesome. I like your initial checklist that narrows things down, and the clear step by step. Found and patched a small leak first, got r134a and adapter at auto shop, fixed same day! Thank you!!!
Thanks for this!! I have a newer fridge that I hated to get rid of, and after checking everything else, this is the best video I've found for a do-it-yourself mom. :)
Well, it depends. She may not always appreciate him getting to the point in 4 minutes 😂😂 I do see a lot of comments about this method leaking. Is there a way to avoid that?
I have a refrigerator that the power comes on, the light comes on inside but the compressor does not engage doesn't even make a sound, what would you say that would be?
excellent video. I was able to save $300 from what I was quoted for a charge and now can use my car charger for it. Perfect. Just be really careful and add a little bit at first. Then wait a few hours. Must be really careful not ro overcharge. ;)
+kenjams Nice! Yes. It's just a little that the fridge needs in all. The gauge is always going to go up when charging. The waiting is good as well, bc it gives time to the freon to go around the system.
also check the condenser coils at the back of the fridge (the one that get warm )for dust it can build up so much it will stop any air cooling the coils
To be fair, there are lots of other videos for that specific function, but all he had to do was mention it and how to do it. Point taken though. Kind of skipped that whole part, arguably the most important part. I learned already how to do this from refilling car AC.
@@billyjoehodges3743 Once you have the valve tap on the fridge, it's not too difficult. What I do is add just a tiny bit of R134a over several days and watch the operation of the fridge. Fridge/freezers actually use very little refrigerant, so it's very easy to over-fill if you are not careful. (If you see any frost on the compressor's suction line, it's usually overfilled). Aside from the valve, one of the best investments I made was installing a digital thermostat on my 20yo Amana.
Why did your trained professional invert the R134a can when charging via the low pressure port? That will cause liquid to enter. My understanding is that charging via a port on the low pressure side near the compressor must be by vapor only to avoid slugging the compressor. Is that right?
You are correct on this: "charging via a port on the low pressure side near the compressor must be by vapor only". The reason for "professional invert the R134a can when charging via the low pressure port" is this: That indeed will cause liquid to come out of the R134a can. Because the can is at 400 psi while the low pressure side near the compressor is (if done right) near vacuum, the change in pressure will cause the R134a to turn (instantly) from liquid to vapor.
Here's a real dinger for ya.. I thought my compressor was getting weak, frost was on my frozen stuff and the fridge was around 40F, ran all the time, so I got the kit. I was ready to recharge it tomorrow...then I found what I think IS the problem. The flapper on the ice dispenser was OPEN... I was looking for a seal leak around the door and when i got to that area i could feel a slight cool draft. Looking up, the flap wasn't entirely closed. I opened the door, a bit of frost was on the inside of the chute. I removed the tray and not running the ice maker... I made a styrofoam block fit down the chute and wedged the flap perma-closed.. Hopefully, SOLVED!
Obviously if you are completely out of Freon then you have a leak. So adding refrigerant dosnt fix the issue. You need to add Freon to the system and use a detector to find the leak. Always weight in your charge. Refrigerators do not use a lot but using a tank of 134A with a scale is more accurate. However, this video was still informational to the DIY homeowner.
How do I identify the suction line? I saw a line coming out of the compressor with a port at the end. Another line connects to some kind of filter before it runs off to elsewhere. They both are quite warm to the touch, one is somewhat warmer than the other.
I actually work on fridges for a living. The bullet valves leak.. Always.. If you are missing refrigerant in a sealed system, it means you have a leak. Adding refrigerant, does not fix the leak.
What if you found the leak and fixed it? What kind of refrigerant do I use? I have r-134 will that work? I’m trying to fix a smaller refrigerator in my semi that I accidentally pierced the walls and put a pinhole in the line. I repaired it with quicksteel putty. It is good for up to 6000 psi will that be strong enough to keep the refrigerant contained?
Nice video. To the point and all but i've been watching these videos for awhile and I think you're supposed to purge the system first. I've haven't seen much on exactly how to do that. Thanks
I have a new freezer and Compressor was found defective and replaced and Freon added that freezer froze to Zero again. Fast forward Refrigerator went on vacation a year later and temp rose to 25 in freezer and nothing blocking vents, no dust build up, all was the same. Did my computerized fridge quit again or does it have anything to do with circuits. Note: I did many tests unplugging for 3 minutes, lowering freezer to 6 below zero and freezer acted the same. Thanks 4 support.
Question: With the bullet piercing tool.. When you pierced the tube, overtime have you ever experienced any leaking? Because through my experience using piercing tools, ive experienced leaking through pipes.
Those piercing valves are for initial access only. You are supposed to put them on the process tube, and remove them when you done, because they always leak. This guy is just creating more problems. There could be a restriction in the system instead of it being low on refrigerant..
How about you start with signs or symptoms that would indicate the freon level is too low or completely out? If a refrigerator isn't working, there could be other issues besides low freon, so specific symptoms would help to do a process of elimination
The truth is, things like refrigerators, vacuum-cleaners and rocks are full of living-cells. These so-called inanimate-objects actually have all sorts of thoughts and feelings. You saved the life of this Refrigerator, it was probably feeling doomed and in despair before you performed life-saving surgery.
It’s not Freon . Freon is R22, he says it several times showing his inexperience. It’s referred to as refrigerant. That’s what the R stands for in front of R134a or R410 so forth and so on.
Freon is not R22 , Freon is a brand name. I agree he is not using Freon and it was bugging me as well. I have a can of Freon 410a refridgerant next to me , and a can of Arkema R22.
I appreciate how you didn't give your life story or anything, you just made a useful video. That being said, what's the cost of all these parts? I'm wondering if I'm saving money or is it just worth it to hire a guy (dude wants to charge me $275 for just a freon recharge)
A bullet-piercing valve is about $7 ... a proper gauge and hose is about $15 ... and a can of R134, about $12. The first two, you can buy on Amazon or EBay. The R134a, you can get from Home Depot or an auto parts store. Providing your fridge (or vehicle) is just low on R134a and not cooling as well (maybe due to a very slow leak), if you are reasonably handy, it's worth a try.
Thanks so much... went to local appliances parts store grabbed the bullet pierce valve..then went to auto parts store grabbed the r12 to 134 adapter then used the small bottle freon with hose and walaa... fridge is blowing cold.. and yes if you are not in a hurry get everything from ebay..I'll be returning to auto parts store to get refund on adapter..
A couple questions, 1. how do you know when you have tightened the piercing valve enough and know when too much is too much before it starts to crush the copper line? I know you ideally want it tight to not leak over time but is there a general rule to that? 2. How can you tell which copper line to add the Freon to? (ex: which is high and low, what is the difference?) 3. How do you know when you have pierced the copper line with that screw? (ex: is there a sound?) 4. On the hose that you used to add the Freon, it’s labeled PSI, what is it supposed to read if low, and when full? (ex: does psi mean how much pressure the line has or how much Freon is in there?) 5. My fridge calls for 4.25 oz of Freon, how will I know how much goes in there using the hose you used. 6. My fridge has a compressor rattle, it has for at least 2 years, it got that way because the fan stopped working and I never knew about it until I checked. I don’t want to replace it just yet, I’d rather try this first to get temps back to sub 40F instead of the 51F that it’s currently at. Do you think this will help cooling? I know eventually the compressor will die out, and the Freon won’t fix the rattle, but as long as it stays cool for at least another year I should be good. Thanks in advance.
You probably got your answers already but just in case other people have same questions. 1. Tighten the (3) screws a little at a time until the assembly is not easily spun around the line. Let the o-ring do its job. I used a bit of locktite on the screws since they will be subject to vibrations. Also, I used some soapy water to test for any leaks. 2. The line that’s returning from the body of fridge is the low side. The line connected to the condenser is the high side. Also there might be a short line that’s connected to nothing. If you do have this, it can be used to service the system. That’s how it was charged at the factory. 3. The piercing screw would bottom out so you can’t keep cranking on it. Stop tightening it when the screw is flushed with the casing. There is no discernible sounds when the line is punctured. Also recommend getting a Schrader valve. It makes servicing the fridge easier and it probably offers a better seal than the piercing valve by itself. 4. Yes the gauges are displayed in psi. The low side pressure will probably vary from one fridge to another. But normally when the fridge is running, the low side should read 1-5 psi. A negative pressure is bad. (Vacuum) 5. You can find out how much you’re adding by weighing the can with a scale. But you don’t know how much are already in the system so it’s important to add a little by little. It’s a slow process and the results may not be immediate. Add a little refrigerant and give the fridge chance to cool before adding more. 6. These parts (piercing valve and a can of 134a) are affordable so it’s worth a try. You can rent an A/C gauge from local auto part stores.
Here is a picture of the sticker inside this particular fridge used on the video. With the information for the amount of Freon that it needs and the type. So , meaning that there can be a possibility of your fridge having that information as well, if not then calling the 1800 number on your sticker the support team will be able to provide you that information in case that your owners manuals does not have it. instagram.com/p/BWTOZ8WHSlN
The EPA and any EPA certified individual will tell you that these valves are not made to be put in place to add a charge and left on, in fact the part 1 EPA 608 certification covers that these should NOT be kept on as they will leak. The proper way to use these valves is to add one, recover the refrigerant in the system, and then braise on proper service fittings making it a type 2 appliance which then can only be serviced by that certification individual.
The proper way is to put the piercing valve on the process tube and then pinch it off before the valve and braze the end shut when you are done. These units hold so little refrigerant, and should be left a sealed system. I guess if you don’t fix the leak, it really dose t matter.
tnx 4 the good video...hope you can help me with the electrolux refrigerator,,,,the ref takes too much time,,,almost a day before making ice cubes,,and the lower door takes whole day to make drinking water cold...it almost lost its cooling power,,tnx
Hope this works. Is there no high pressure line on the refrigerators? I have manifold gauges which work for adding freon to a vehicle safely. I saw you are only using the low pressure and never messed with one of these.
Nice video, but there's one thing I'm not clear on. The can of R134a that you used and also the ones I have state that they are to be used for automtoive purposes only, but nowhere does it say why! I looked all over Google and I can't come up with a decent answer. I did recharge our commercial "True" fridge at our church with my can of "automotive only" R134a and had great results. If the instructions tell me to do something, but they don't tell me why, I have a tendency do do it my way and to H*** with the instructions! Thanks again for your help.
One of the videos I watched stated the difference in auto charging is that system can take the dispensing faster, and the fridge system has to be treated more gentle, otherwise it will lock up. You have to let the Freon out of the can slower with the fridge.
I suppose that makes sense, however while charging an automotive system the compressor is going to constantly cycle off and on which means at some point you are puting in freon while the compressor isn't running, whereas a refrigerator compressor will run continuously during recharge. Kind of an oxymoron ain't it?
First it is not "freon" it is "refrigerant", there are several different types (R-12 R-22 R 134A pureon and more...R12 is the old "freon" ...CHECK YOUR COMPRESSOR info tag or appliance specs, it will tell you what type of refrigerant and how much of it to use for a proper level and cooling. I also am curious about where the missing refrigerant vanished too as well...if it took 10 years thats ok I guess but 10 minutes...not good. I believe on manifold gages you have a high (pressure) side and low side gauge and a fill connector. Always add on the low (pressure) side NOT the high side, otherwise there is a potential for the pressure to exceed what the can you are holding can handle causing it to explode in your hand and possibly kill you...which is probably why they say let the professionals "do it", do you and usually in my case do a shitty job...to "properly" charge a system you would need a vacuum, reclaimer, system flush and about $10,000 burning a hole in your pocket...and venting R-12 and R-22 to the atmosphere is illegal and punishable by death or whatever (kidding about death but is illegal) HOWEVER 10 years ago I replaced a compressor and did a 134A conversion on a 90 model Dodge diesel farm truck in the middle of a cow pasture with only manifold guages, can of system flush, compressor oil adapters and R134A- and dryer...no vacuum no reclaimer...and the cows can keep a secrete about what that "psssshhhhh" noise was....and it still works to this day. So yes its possible no its not the best and could leave catastrophic contaminants in the system and will piss off the hippies but for a $10 fridge...who cares? Also, never mix unlike refrigerants..., bad bad doo doo ...shit blows up and if you convert to a different refrigerant, notate the change and label the hell out of it so the next poor boy that buys a $5 fridge knows...Im not a HVAC appliance repair guy, just a hardly functional curious jack of this that and some other crap with a curious mind and horrible luck with repair people suddenly turning into a monkey and my stuff they work on their football...so rather than being the monkey / football thing, perhaps providing sugar coayed constructive criticism including information to keep people safe so they dont blow stuff up and fix it even better would be more beneficial to everyone if you are a so called "professional" and share something useful about your trade...and not just confirm you are a giant....primate with a tiny one...thanks for the video, was wondering how to recharge after I repair my leak...which by the way if you have not found the leak on your unit I would take a look at the areas on the copper tubing that are turning deep green, corrosion in a solder weld joint rotted a hole in mine...and ive got a torch, flux and solder...that should scare the crap out of a bunch of the "proper people" none of this repair will be "to specs" but it might get 5 more years holding on to my $900 for a new fridge....
Where some people may take this post the wrong way I see so many great tips so thank you sir! I have ordered a refrigerant leak detector and taking the video tips along with your advise and praying I can get our fridge freezer side to freeze again. No ice, melted popsicles is just not working for me here in the heat of California. trying to save us some money being I am on disability from a car accident and five back surgeries one of the many reasons I love youtube. Have a wonderful day everyone sure hope if I need to ad refrigerant I do not make things worse or blow myself up. -Paul
Question for everyone and author...I see you using automotive r134a to recharge. But when I ask google whether it is ok to use automotive r134a on a refrigerator I get the answer back that NO, it should not be used because the materials in there are different and can cause corrosion on copper systems. I'd like to hear what people think about that and whether or not this is a real concern/problem.
My refrigerator is not cooling well, My freezer is warmer than it should be. Everything is clear of dust. I can not find the defrost timer on mine. IDK if that is the problem, but it seems to be the least expensive fix, so I wanted to start w/ that. Any ideas as to what my problem is? No ice being made either. I dont know if this has anything to do w/ it or not, but while i was on vacation, my daughter accidentally flipped the breaker to it, and all the food went bad and sat in there for 2 weeks. We cleaned everything, it was working fine afterwards, now going on about a month. Could that have anything to do w/ my issue?
first , what i would do is locate the defrost timer, you can call the 1800 number usually inside of the fridge so they can refer you to the correct location according to your specific model number. then ,check if any of the ventilation holes are clogged, if the fan is working, verify that there is no frost, if the compressor is working and the thermostat.
He failed to state the importance of cleaning the tubing before attaching the valve. It should be cleaned with 200 grit or finer sandpaper. This, I understand, helps prevent leakage.
Great video. Thank you for sharing my Friend. Hello Friend, Here is a new friend, giving you all love and support. Let’s always stay connected because together we can make it. I wish you always success in your life. 💖🤝🔔👍😀
How can I tell If the problem with my refrigerator is being low on Freon ? What are the signs that the problem is due to having low or no Freon? My refrigerator works and the compressor sounds normal but it does not cool the refrigerator nor the freezer !!!!
What of finding the LEAK first???? How can the system be charged prior to finding the hole? If not it will just leak out once again, right? Can pressurized air at 50+ psi be used then vacuumed out to remove moisture? Thanks.
there should be a white sticker inside fridge with refrigerant amount or a 1800 number to call. here is a photo of this particular one, sticker instagram.com/p/BWTOZ8WHSlN/ (also in description of video )
Hello. I see your video on recharge. Question, did you let the air out only few minutes, or let it sit over night and come back next day to recharge? I'm about to recharge my chest freezer and was told need to use pump to let air out over night
Evacuation or vacuuming is something technicians started doing in the 80's according to my HVACR master of 40 years. they used to let it in one side and out the other as a purge. EPA has banned this practice.
Where did u get the adapter piece from i cant find it at home depot,lowes or amazon?!?! I hooked my bullet valve up then realized i didnt have a connector
Great video thanks 🇬🇧 tell me pls what pipe do u put the piercing valve on? There’s a pipe next to it that looks really short and crimped, can u put it on that one ?
You can put it on the short stubby pipe, IF it is straight enough. That's actually how the manufacturers add the R134a to a new fridge, except that they merely crimp the end, rather than putting on a valve, which would be much more helpful!
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Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
for those commenting about "oh it will leak now blah blah blah ...." - this is meant as an alternative to buying an entire new unit. I have converted mine just like the video & i have to add freon about once a year for $9 bucks, vs a new refrigerator for $1000. ...so slow leak and pay 9 bucks a year or go out and buy a new refrigerator ..... you decide.
🎯 👍 💯 💡
Glad yours is working for you, but some folks like to fix things the right way, that's why.
A trick a repair man told me he uses is he has a special dye that he adds to the freon. He then later takes a backlight and the dye will show him where the leak is
@@angrycowboy7782
This is how those certified in ac refills do it.
@@michaelcrossley5661
His leaks because it wasn’t installed right.
Not everyone has the same results
This might be the best no bullshit no filler video i have ever seen great edit to the creator or whoever did this makes me want to attempt fixing my parents fridge thats not cooling 100 percent.
Just came across this video, I have been teaching myself how to work on old fridges and more lately vending machines. I think this video will be key to helping me when I find cooling issues. Thank you!!
Thank you first for the amazing video. It was very informative but didn't waste my time with a bunch of unnecessary Mumbo jumbo! I wish everyone thought like this!
+mrsyvonnenlee thanks!
Pressure too hi there
No refrigerant in the system, where did it leak out at.
Before you put refrigerant back into service you need to:
1. Put some dye refrigerant in and find that leak, or use some Co2 and pressurize it and use a gas sniffer to find the leak. You can buy a sniffer cheap at Harbor Freight or on line.
2. Seal the leak. If it's a really small leak or if it up in the box coils, you can use some stop leak and that may do the trick.
3. Pull a vacuum on the system and let it sit for an hour to make sure it has no leaks. You can rent the vacuum pump from an auto parts store, free. You put ~ $180.00 dollar equipment deposit down and you get it back when you bring the pump back.
4. Fill it with at least the recommended amount of refrigerant. Use refridgerant that has oil in it, since you don't know how much oil leaked out.
If you don't do those steps you may be back in there in a few days to a year, depending on how bad the leak is.
Also clean all the coils, as you mentioned.
Other than that good video, clean and helpful. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
A can!
💡 👍 👏
What stop leak do you use?
@@RogerPack Any of them will usually work if the leak is real slow. My leak was so slow it would take a year for it to make a difference. So it worked the first time I used it. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
Keith Noneya do you let the vacuum out before adding Freon. Do you put stop leak in before or after adding Freon?
I just ordered this valve on Amazon for $10. I got a freezer for free since it does not completely cool. Hopefully in a few days I will have a working $10 freezer. Thank you.
Thomas Milner what's the valve calling I can't find any online
Thomas Milner Did it work?
**HoW did thinGs faRe bRuH.!???!?* 😒
@@kerolesnashed4729
www.amazon.com/s?k=bullet-piercing+valve&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
*Easy to assemble **Fastly.Cool*
Brother!!
Easy and clear instructions. The music was a nice touch. Even knew when to lower the music levels when you're talking so we can hear you. A lot of content providers put music in the video but don't lower it and sometimes you can't even hear them
Dude, you’re awesome. I like your initial checklist that narrows things down, and the clear step by step. Found and patched a small leak first, got r134a and adapter at auto shop, fixed same day! Thank you!!!
How do you find and patch the leak?
@@RogerPack He left the piecing adapter valve there. Therefore, he does not need to patch the leak.
very clear and concise. Appreciate you also mention that we need to make sure to check all other stuff BEFORE working on the freon refill.
Just watched with my grandson and he wants me to tell you it is a cool video. Thanks for making it.
Thanks! You can tell him he is cool for watching!
Thanks for this!! I have a newer fridge that I hated to get rid of, and after checking everything else, this is the best video I've found for a do-it-yourself mom. :)
thanks!
Where can buy freon for Samsung refrigerators is the safe that used for cars
You showed that fridge who's boss 🤙
You saved our fridge! Thank you so much for putting out this step by step.
Great to hear
I've always thought it was a complicated job to do that thank you
Not surprised it’s a Fridgedaire! They used to be the best, run 40 years with no problems.
Terrific video! The way they should ALL be made! Your wife is one lucky gal. Thank you...Good work..
Thanks!
Well, it depends. She may not always appreciate him getting to the point in 4 minutes 😂😂 I do see a lot of comments about this method leaking. Is there a way to avoid that?
Great video.....appreciate the level of detail and overall production quality of the video.
My friend shared your link with me, and I'm glad he did! Very informative and very nice video! thank you very much my friend!
+AMERICANREBEL ! Thanks!
I have a refrigerator that the power comes on, the light comes on inside but the compressor does not engage doesn't even make a sound, what would you say that would be?
AMERICANREBEL ! I have the same issue, were you able to find the issue? Thank you!
Great video for women. Very descriptive in other things to check and exactly how to put freon in the fridge. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks!
same tutorial content. thanks, the video is very useful for those who are just learning
YES!YES! At last a microwave version of how to add freon to a refrigerator. Precise.Accurate. To the point. "I will follow him." lol
excellent video. I was able to save $300 from what I was quoted for a charge and now can use my car charger for it. Perfect. Just be really careful and add a little bit at first. Then wait a few hours. Must be really careful not ro overcharge. ;)
+kenjams Nice! Yes. It's just a little that the fridge needs in all. The gauge is always going to go up when charging. The waiting is good as well, bc it gives time to the freon to go around the system.
Fantastic video.. straight to the point .. all the other viedos should be like this
Thanks!
Great job #plain and simple thankyou😇
also check the condenser coils at the back of the fridge (the one that get warm )for dust it can build up so much it will stop any air cooling the coils
+MN SHP (MNSHP11) Good advice!
👍 💯 🎯💡
How did you determine which copper line to pierce?
The video would have been more helpful if you actually showed how much you were low on Freon, then how the gauge read when you topped it up.
**SaMe shiT I was thinKinG thaT's whY I disLiKed iT I meaN c'Mon man w.T.F.!??!?* 😠
To be fair, there are lots of other videos for that specific function, but all he had to do was mention it and how to do it. Point taken though. Kind of skipped that whole part, arguably the most important part. I learned already how to do this from refilling car AC.
@@amosfeldman9454 That's true and I already know how to do it too, but I'm looking from the perspective of a newbie.
@@markg6860 yep, I am that newbie!
I know how to charge my vehicles, but the fridge is a different beast. I DO have the gist of it though.
@@billyjoehodges3743 Once you have the valve tap on the fridge, it's not too difficult. What I do is add just a tiny bit of R134a over several days and watch the operation of the fridge. Fridge/freezers actually use very little refrigerant, so it's very easy to over-fill if you are not careful. (If you see any frost on the compressor's suction line, it's usually overfilled). Aside from the valve, one of the best investments I made was installing a digital thermostat on my 20yo Amana.
Why did your trained professional invert the R134a can when charging via the low pressure port? That will cause liquid to enter. My understanding is that charging via a port on the low pressure side near the compressor must be by vapor only to avoid slugging the compressor. Is that right?
You are correct on this: "charging via a port on the low pressure side near the compressor must be by vapor only".
The reason for "professional invert the R134a can when charging via the low pressure port" is this:
That indeed will cause liquid to come out of the R134a can. Because the can is at 400 psi while the low pressure side near the compressor is (if done right) near vacuum, the change in pressure will cause the R134a to turn (instantly) from liquid to vapor.
Here's a real dinger for ya.. I thought my compressor was getting weak, frost was on my frozen stuff and the fridge was around 40F, ran all the time, so I got the kit. I was ready to recharge it tomorrow...then I found what I think IS the problem. The flapper on the ice dispenser was OPEN... I was looking for a seal leak around the door and when i got to that area i could feel a slight cool draft. Looking up, the flap wasn't entirely closed. I opened the door, a bit of frost was on the inside of the chute. I removed the tray and not running the ice maker... I made a styrofoam block fit down the chute and wedged the flap perma-closed.. Hopefully, SOLVED!
Nice one buddy! Now I can finally stop paying for my fridge service :)
Obviously if you are completely out of Freon then you have a leak. So adding refrigerant dosnt fix the issue. You need to add Freon to the system and use a detector to find the leak. Always weight in your charge. Refrigerators do not use a lot but using a tank of 134A with a scale is more accurate. However, this video was still informational to the DIY homeowner.
good video man, good info. now I know how to install a bullet valve .
Nice!
Very impressive indeed
How do I identify the suction line? I saw a line coming out of the compressor with a port at the end. Another line connects to some kind of filter before it runs off to elsewhere. They both are quite warm to the touch, one is somewhat warmer than the other.
Very interesting video. Can this also be done on an A/C On a travel trailer to recharge freon?
What an awesome video! Thank you! 🙏🏽
The perfect explanation
terimakasih atas penjelasanya ....like...and share.....salam kenal ya ....
I actually work on fridges for a living. The bullet valves leak.. Always.. If you are missing refrigerant in a sealed system, it means you have a leak. Adding refrigerant, does not fix the leak.
So how to fix leak
How do I find a leak
What if you found the leak and fixed it? What kind of refrigerant do I use? I have r-134 will that work? I’m trying to fix a smaller refrigerator in my semi that I accidentally pierced the walls and put a pinhole in the line. I repaired it with quicksteel putty. It is good for up to 6000 psi will that be strong enough to keep the refrigerant contained?
Check your compressor it usually says what refrigerant is in your system if you don't have your owners manual@@gloverm2
Nice video. To the point and all but i've been watching these videos for awhile and I think you're supposed to purge the system first. I've haven't seen much on exactly how to do that. Thanks
+deepthang thanks!
If it's completely empty, yes. But if not, you can probably just top it off
Great video 👍 Thanks for sharing ❤
Finally a useful video. Thanks
Thanks man, that was a really helpful video
You haven't flush the hose before recharging?
Great video easy and concise
Simple to the point
I have a new freezer and Compressor was found defective and replaced and Freon added that freezer froze to Zero again.
Fast forward Refrigerator went on vacation a year later and temp rose to 25 in freezer and nothing blocking vents, no dust build up, all was the same.
Did my computerized fridge quit again or does it have anything to do with circuits.
Note: I did many tests unplugging for 3 minutes, lowering freezer to 6 below zero and freezer acted the same.
Thanks 4 support.
Do I need to bleed the air out of the system using a pressure gauge and vacuum pump? Also do I need to add oil to the compressor?
Fantastic, clear and concise, I'll definitely check out more of your videos!
Question: With the bullet piercing tool.. When you pierced the tube, overtime have you ever experienced any leaking? Because through my experience using piercing tools, ive experienced leaking through pipes.
Those piercing valves are for initial access only. You are supposed to put them on the process tube, and remove them when you done, because they always leak. This guy is just creating more problems. There could be a restriction in the system instead of it being low on refrigerant..
great help thanks
StatUpBox AWESOME Video Brother! Thank you!
Good job
great video straight to the point !!!
thanks!
How about you start with signs or symptoms that would indicate the freon level is too low or completely out? If a refrigerator isn't working, there could be other issues besides low freon, so specific symptoms would help to do a process of elimination
The truth is, things like refrigerators, vacuum-cleaners and rocks are full of living-cells. These so-called inanimate-objects actually have all sorts of thoughts and feelings. You saved the life of this Refrigerator, it was probably feeling doomed and in despair before you performed life-saving surgery.
It’s not Freon . Freon is R22, he says it several times showing his inexperience. It’s referred to as refrigerant. That’s what the R stands for in front of R134a or R410 so forth and so on.
Freon is not R22 , Freon is a brand name. I agree he is not using Freon and it was bugging me as well. I have a can of Freon 410a refridgerant next to me , and a can of Arkema R22.
@@JE_Drift u are also incorrect, they are all refrigerants, including 410a
Awesome video! Straight to the point and indicated every single tool that's needed 👍
Nice job, I love your sample my friend
Very nice
Great video and right to the point.
Thanks! Good video, no nonsense, and got to hear dat smoove jazz.
3 years later and yes that jazz is back to haunt you
I appreciate how you didn't give your life story or anything, you just made a useful video. That being said, what's the cost of all these parts? I'm wondering if I'm saving money or is it just worth it to hire a guy (dude wants to charge me $275 for just a freon recharge)
A bullet-piercing valve is about $7 ... a proper gauge and hose is about $15 ... and a can of R134, about $12. The first two, you can buy on Amazon or EBay. The R134a, you can get from Home Depot or an auto parts store. Providing your fridge (or vehicle) is just low on R134a and not cooling as well (maybe due to a very slow leak), if you are reasonably handy, it's worth a try.
Great video!!!!
My fans were working,but after adding 3n1 electric motor oil they spun 3 times faster. Solved the problem of not cold enough.
Thanks so much... went to local appliances parts store grabbed the bullet pierce valve..then went to auto parts store grabbed the r12 to 134 adapter then used the small bottle freon with hose and walaa... fridge is blowing cold.. and yes if you are not in a hurry get everything from ebay..I'll be returning to auto parts store to get refund on adapter..
using the part and then returning it. SMH. classy
A year from now you will need to top off the charge again
A couple questions,
1. how do you know when you have tightened the piercing valve enough and know when too much is too much before it starts to crush the copper line? I know you ideally want it tight to not leak over time but is there a general rule to that?
2. How can you tell which copper line to add the Freon to? (ex: which is high and low, what is the difference?)
3. How do you know when you have pierced the copper line with that screw? (ex: is there a sound?)
4. On the hose that you used to add the Freon, it’s labeled PSI, what is it supposed to read if low, and when full? (ex: does psi mean how much pressure the line has or how much Freon is in there?)
5. My fridge calls for 4.25 oz of Freon, how will I know how much goes in there using the hose you used.
6. My fridge has a compressor rattle, it has for at least 2 years, it got that way because the fan stopped working and I never knew about it until I checked. I don’t want to replace it just yet, I’d rather try this first to get temps back to sub 40F instead of the 51F that it’s currently at. Do you think this will help cooling? I know eventually the compressor will die out, and the Freon won’t fix the rattle, but as long as it stays cool for at least another year I should be good. Thanks in advance.
just tighten the 3-screws evenly enough that the valve cannot be twisted.
You probably got your answers already but just in case other people have same questions.
1. Tighten the (3) screws a little at a time until the assembly is not easily spun around the line. Let the o-ring do its job. I used a bit of locktite on the screws since they will be subject to vibrations. Also, I used some soapy water to test for any leaks.
2. The line that’s returning from the body of fridge is the low side. The line connected to the condenser is the high side. Also there might be a short line that’s connected to nothing. If you do have this, it can be used to service the system. That’s how it was charged at the factory.
3. The piercing screw would bottom out so you can’t keep cranking on it. Stop tightening it when the screw is flushed with the casing. There is no discernible sounds when the line is punctured. Also recommend getting a Schrader valve. It makes servicing the fridge easier and it probably offers a better seal than the piercing valve by itself.
4. Yes the gauges are displayed in psi.
The low side pressure will probably vary from one fridge to another. But normally when the fridge is running, the low side should read 1-5 psi. A negative pressure is bad. (Vacuum)
5. You can find out how much you’re adding by weighing the can with a scale. But you don’t know how much are already in the system so it’s important to add a little by little. It’s a slow process and the results may not be immediate. Add a little refrigerant and give the fridge chance to cool before adding more.
6. These parts (piercing valve and a can of 134a) are affordable so it’s worth a try. You can rent an A/C gauge from local auto part stores.
@@znogaragego3421 thank you for the reply, very good info. I appreciate it and your time.
Here is a picture of the sticker inside this particular fridge used on the video. With the information for the amount of Freon that it needs and the type. So , meaning that there can be a possibility of your fridge having that information as well, if not then calling the 1800 number on your sticker the support team will be able to provide you that information in case that your owners manuals does not have it. instagram.com/p/BWTOZ8WHSlN
Can you explain how you determined the charge required?
The picture clearly says 140psi, charged pressure applied was 38psi
@@EricLDunn Same question from me, thanks
Thanks Great job
The best video on the subject!
Thanks!
I just used your video to stop a lie told on another channel, and by their sponsor, that the refrigerant is AIR!
The EPA and any EPA certified individual will tell you that these valves are not made to be put in place to add a charge and left on, in fact the part 1 EPA 608 certification covers that these should NOT be kept on as they will leak.
The proper way to use these valves is to add one, recover the refrigerant in the system, and then braise on proper service fittings making it a type 2 appliance which then can only be serviced by that certification individual.
The proper way is to put the piercing valve on the process tube and then pinch it off before the valve and braze the end shut when you are done. These units hold so little refrigerant, and should be left a sealed system. I guess if you don’t fix the leak, it really dose t matter.
tnx 4 the good video...hope you can help me with the electrolux refrigerator,,,,the ref takes too much time,,,almost a day before making ice cubes,,and the lower door takes whole day to make drinking water cold...it almost lost its cooling power,,tnx
Hope this works. Is there no high pressure line on the refrigerators? I have manifold gauges which work for adding freon to a vehicle safely. I saw you are only using the low pressure and never messed with one of these.
Extremely helpful !
+josue esquivel thanks!
Nice video, but there's one thing I'm not clear on. The can of R134a that you used and also the ones I have state that they are to be used for automtoive purposes only, but nowhere does it say why! I looked all over Google and I can't come up with a decent answer. I did recharge our commercial "True" fridge at our church with my can of "automotive only" R134a and had great results.
If the instructions tell me to do something, but they don't tell me why, I have a tendency do do it my way and to H*** with the instructions!
Thanks again for your help.
I'm curious about this as well. It should be the same refrigerant unless there is an additive I am not aware of.
One of the videos I watched stated the difference in auto charging is that system can take the dispensing faster, and the fridge system has to be treated more gentle, otherwise it will lock up. You have to let the Freon out of the can slower with the fridge.
I suppose that makes sense, however while charging an automotive system the compressor is going to constantly cycle off and on which means at some point you are puting in freon while the compressor isn't running, whereas a refrigerator compressor will run continuously during recharge. Kind of an oxymoron ain't it?
First it is not "freon" it is "refrigerant", there are several different types (R-12 R-22 R 134A pureon and more...R12 is the old "freon" ...CHECK YOUR COMPRESSOR info tag or appliance specs, it will tell you what type of refrigerant and how much of it to use for a proper level and cooling. I also am curious about where the missing refrigerant vanished too as well...if it took 10 years thats ok I guess but 10 minutes...not good. I believe on manifold gages you have a high (pressure) side and low side gauge and a fill connector. Always add on the low (pressure) side NOT the high side, otherwise there is a potential for the pressure to exceed what the can you are holding can handle causing it to explode in your hand and possibly kill you...which is probably why they say let the professionals "do it", do you and usually in my case do a shitty job...to "properly" charge a system you would need a vacuum, reclaimer, system flush and about $10,000 burning a hole in your pocket...and venting R-12 and R-22 to the atmosphere is illegal and punishable by death or whatever (kidding about death but is illegal) HOWEVER 10 years ago I replaced a compressor and did a 134A conversion on a 90 model Dodge diesel farm truck in the middle of a cow pasture with only manifold guages, can of system flush, compressor oil adapters and R134A- and dryer...no vacuum no reclaimer...and the cows can keep a secrete about what that "psssshhhhh" noise was....and it still works to this day. So yes its possible no its not the best and could leave catastrophic contaminants in the system and will piss off the hippies but for a $10 fridge...who cares? Also, never mix unlike refrigerants..., bad bad doo doo ...shit blows up and if you convert to a different refrigerant, notate the change and label the hell out of it so the next poor boy that buys a $5 fridge knows...Im not a HVAC appliance repair guy, just a hardly functional curious jack of this that and some other crap with a curious mind and horrible luck with repair people suddenly turning into a monkey and my stuff they work on their football...so rather than being the monkey / football thing, perhaps providing sugar coayed constructive criticism including information to keep people safe so they dont blow stuff up and fix it even better would be more beneficial to everyone if you are a so called "professional" and share something useful about your trade...and not just confirm you are a giant....primate with a tiny one...thanks for the video, was wondering how to recharge after I repair my leak...which by the way if you have not found the leak on your unit I would take a look at the areas on the copper tubing that are turning deep green, corrosion in a solder weld joint rotted a hole in mine...and ive got a torch, flux and solder...that should scare the crap out of a bunch of the "proper people" none of this repair will be "to specs" but it might get 5 more years holding on to my $900 for a new fridge....
Where some people may take this post the wrong way I see so many great tips so thank you sir! I have ordered a refrigerant leak detector and taking the video tips along with your advise and praying I can get our fridge freezer side to freeze again. No ice, melted popsicles is just not working for me here in the heat of California. trying to save us some money being I am on disability from a car accident and five back surgeries one of the many reasons I love youtube. Have a wonderful day everyone sure hope if I need to ad refrigerant I do not make things worse or blow myself up. -Paul
"if you have any questions be sure to leave a comment below, I won't answer you with any helpful information, but still, go for it."
Might add to remove dust from cooling coils (condenser) system will prob work better
🎯 👍👍💡
What about pulling vacuum to get all the air and moisture out of the system?
Question for everyone and author...I see you using automotive r134a to recharge. But when I ask google whether it is ok to use automotive r134a on a refrigerator I get the answer back that NO, it should not be used because the materials in there are different and can cause corrosion on copper systems. I'd like to hear what people think about that and whether or not this is a real concern/problem.
Same here. I'm surprised this isn't something everyone is asking as well in the comments
Great and to the point
You might want to clean the condenser
Thanks for the video! The gauge at the 3:35 mark, was the refrigerator plugged inwhen the gauge gave you that reading?
My refrigerator is not cooling well, My freezer is warmer than it should be. Everything is clear of dust. I can not find the defrost timer on mine. IDK if that is the problem, but it seems to be the least expensive fix, so I wanted to start w/ that. Any ideas as to what my problem is? No ice being made either. I dont know if this has anything to do w/ it or not, but while i was on vacation, my daughter accidentally flipped the breaker to it, and all the food went bad and sat in there for 2 weeks. We cleaned everything, it was working fine afterwards, now going on about a month. Could that have anything to do w/ my issue?
first , what i would do is locate the defrost timer, you can call the 1800 number usually inside of the fridge so they can refer you to the correct location according to your specific model number. then ,check if any of the ventilation holes are clogged, if the fan is working, verify that there is no frost, if the compressor is working and the thermostat.
He failed to state the importance of cleaning the tubing before attaching the valve. It should be cleaned with 200 grit or finer sandpaper. This, I understand, helps prevent leakage.
Then use some ketchup on a paper towel to make the copper piping nice and bright!
My question is this we have a small puncture in my mini fridge freezer I heard the hissing can I use JB Weld and then add Freon?
I note you did not purge air from the recharge hose before connecting it to the bullet piercing valve. Is that necessary?
So what is the charge on a domestic refrigerator
Great video. Thank you for sharing my Friend.
Hello Friend,
Here is a new friend, giving you all love and support. Let’s always stay connected because together we can make it. I wish you always success in your life. 💖🤝🔔👍😀
How can I tell If the problem with my refrigerator is being low on Freon ? What are the signs that the problem is due to having low or no Freon? My refrigerator works and the compressor sounds normal but it does not cool the refrigerator nor the freezer !!!!
What of finding the LEAK first???? How can the system be charged prior to finding the hole? If not it will just leak out once again, right? Can pressurized air at 50+ psi be used then vacuumed out to remove moisture? Thanks.
I have same 3 port gauge as you, and looks like same frigidaire in video. Did everything exactly the same. Reading started off below zero, but
No name plate. Compressor just says r134a ..1ph.
there should be a white sticker inside fridge with refrigerant amount or a 1800 number to call. here is a photo of this particular one, sticker instagram.com/p/BWTOZ8WHSlN/ (also in description of video )
I noticed that you overcharged it! 😜
1:01 that's moment you will check if the landfill is opened.
Hello. I see your video on recharge. Question, did you let the air out only few minutes, or let it sit over night and come back next day to recharge? I'm about to recharge my chest freezer and was told need to use pump to let air out over night
+Jerome Eady the system was vacuumed first. The system was completely empty in this case
Evacuation or vacuuming is something technicians started doing in the 80's according to my HVACR master of 40 years. they used to let it in one side and out the other as a purge. EPA has banned this practice.
Where did u get the adapter piece from i cant find it at home depot,lowes or amazon?!?! I hooked my bullet valve up then realized i didnt have a connector
Great video thanks 🇬🇧 tell me pls what pipe do u put the piercing valve on? There’s a pipe next to it that looks really short and crimped, can u put it on that one ?
You can put it on the short stubby pipe, IF it is straight enough. That's actually how the manufacturers add the R134a to a new fridge, except that they merely crimp the end, rather than putting on a valve, which would be much more helpful!
Did you vacuum the system? And did you fixed any leaks before adding the refrigerant?