If you are going to do a sealed system leak repair, it is best to locate the leak first and make the repair. You can break each side of the system down and use nitrogen charge to see if it holds pressure. you can evacuate and see if it losses vacuum or you can use a dye drier and locate the leak. You should always change the drier filter when making a repair. I do not trust can sealers. 30 years in the business and prefer to do it the correct way. If this works for him. Great. I have no issue with what he chooses to do. He done a great job using a digital scale to charge.
Did you try using a leak detector near the evaporators? A lot of the time, evaps will leak rather at the sides where they were welded or where the copper vapor line is connected to the aluminum of the evap. Replacing the evap in that case is the better fix.
when initially checking "Freon" which is a misnomer it's actually refrigerant , one should use no loss refrigerant gauges, not a manifold, Also at 15 lbs of pressure isn't that equal to something like a 15 degree coil? you'll end up freezing it. Also if adding a stop leak , which I personally wouldn't do, purge the hose first otherwise you'll end up contaminating the system with non condensables.
I have a KitchenAid wine cooler. The amperage draw on the compressor is low and the unit is not cooling. I'm guessing it's low on R134. Will add service port and check low-side with gauges. Thanks for the video.
I noticed you did not bleed your lines so all I see you doing was introducing a lot of air in the unit be for the refrigerant. always charge as as a liquid on 134.
I have a Vinopazzo LBWC154DS-LBBC772DS dual compartment that looks similar to that. I was not cooling at all, compressor runs. I added a service port, evacuated and charged with R134 and it's cooling now, but ONLY the top half. The bottom fan is not turning but is not seized. The outside back panel is not removable and it seems I'd have to take all the parts out from the inside to get the inside back panel off to get to the fan? The schematic is not very clear on where the fan connects to the control board. Any thoughts?? Thanks,
I live in Illinois, I can't anyone to touch my Danby under the counter unit. Danby repair man say the replace the whole unit. I tried to go elsewhere & they said it's illegal to repair in Illinois. Is that universal in other states as well? After viewing a few repair videos I received a petition to allow this type of work to be done.
We have a Danby Wine Cooler DWC283BLS-1. * Why is compressor extremely hot to the touch? * In addition to replacing the fans, what additional parts should consider replacing? * Where can I find replacement part numbers? For years, the system has maintained a consistent temp (lower 45 and upper 55). Recently, I noticed a noise from the inside and like a fan turning on and ON and IMMEDIATELY OFF. No clicking sounds. 1) The compressor is getting power BUT VERY HOT to the touch. 2) I do not know if the HEATER FAN is working correctly or not, and I have yet to see it move. This is the more massive fan against the back wall. 3) The noise was from the more massive air-cycling fan, and after a gentle vacuum of both fans, the sound stopped. I think the bearings are going out on the fans. 4) Before closing the door, I set the (lower 41 and upper 55), and after one hour, we are at (lower 50 and upper 55). This good considering it took me about five-ten minutes to identify the problem fan, vacuum out the inside, and the temp was at 64/64 when closing the door. I wished I live in Texas, and thank you for your videos. Excellent work, and thank you for your support.
No they don’t. Or at least not on an older one like from 96. I used a different brand leak Sealer and I did also put some UV dye leak detector in it as a guy recommended… still running now. No issues. It’s been well over a year. Pumped it down before I did anything else tho.
As you’re supposed to. Because it was dead for over a year. So I definitely pulled a vacuum. One guy didn’t pump his tho. He just filled it but it didn’t hurt it. Still running now I think.
My wine cooler has a similar design. Does anyone know how to remove the rear panel please? No visible screws/clips or anything... I need to gain access to the wiring inside. Thank you!
What happens if there turns out to be a small amount of R134a in system and or moisture when you run the vacuum pump? Does the vacuum pump release the moisture somehow? If the system only holds a certain amount of refrigerant and you add the sealer, does somehow that leave less room in the system for the R134a?
David Hershberger umm I’m no rocket scientist but you can boil water at 70 degrees if under a vacuum,, water evaporates and turns into a ... keep studying and learning
r134 is not freon, its refrigerant. you didn't purge your lines so you blew air right back into the system. that can of fix-a-flat is a joke. where did you learn this hack work?
I couldn't agree with u more. I've done sealed system repairs for a long time and if I worked on the same company he worked for I know I would go and fix his mistakes
to whom. I have a Kenmore chest freezer. I bought it new and used it about 2 yrs. my wife and I decided to storage it. The freezer was storaged about 8 yrs. this week, we decided to use it. The freezer was not damaged. I notice the cooler system was not after 2 hours. I check for problems and could not locate any problem. Question, I noticed buzz noises from the compressor. Does this means out of cooler, does buzz noises means compressor no good, do I have leaks, or what?
Hi i have a danby fridge and I tried to put the refrigerant but this one said high side 274 psi and low side 90 psi so i charged and is in 90 in the monometer but I saw your video and you never reach more than 30. could be over charged y winner?
Where is the high side valve you don't know if you got a restriction or if low on refrigerant it a cap tube system .you need both side low/high side of the seal system .Please don't use that stuff for leaks ,find leak and repair the leak pre EPA critical charge only 3 oz of refrigerant please leak check the system and you didn't change drier every time you open the seal system change drier where superheat/sub cool reading before after charging where the amp off the compressor .
so you charged 3.5 oz of refrigerant (plus a bunch of air), but what about the ~1oz you already put in of that fix a leak trash???? you have added air and overcharged the system. plus you never actually found or even looked for the source of the leak which is the root of this whole problem.
If he added A bunch of air to it wouldn’t work properly. Plus if he Overcharged the system there would be frost buildup on the suction line back to the compressor.
@@chrisscott5339 Air has moisture and it's a non-condenseable gas. It tends to hang out in the condenser reducing its efficiency. Air doesn't condense so it can take up a lot of space in the condenser. Depending on the oil used the moisture can cause the oil to turn back into an acid. The moisture can also cause ice to form in the metering device. Air in a system is all bad. His procedures here are quite poor.
@@markcarpenter3600 Right air in the system is not good. But how do you know he pumped it full of air? If it’s filled with air it won’t run properly. Wouldn’t even frost all the way. The only metering device in a refrigerator/ freezer I know of is the filter drier. Which filters out any contaminants. And if the drier gets plugged it’ll freeze up and the unit won’t get cold enough.
caloy caloy , he could charge as a liquid but not into the suction line port (Low side) because then the compressor would be sucking liquid, he would have to charge liquid into the liquid line port, (high side) which is after the condenser but before the metering device. 134a is a pure compound so there is no fractionation, fractionation occurs in blends which are not azetropic. azeotropic blends are composed of multiple refrigerants that share a single common boiling point. when there is a temperature glide during the change of state from liquid to gas one component of the blend will change state before the other(s), this happens in Zeotropic blends and Near-azeotropic blends to a lesser degree. if the system was running on another refrigerant say 407c he could not charge as gas, as 407c is a blend comprised of R 32, R 125 and R 134a, it would be entirely possible that only one or two of the components would be in gas state while the other(s) were still in liquid. so In in the case of zeotropic refrigerant blends like the one just mentioned they have to be charged only as liquids.
Why did you turn the cab upside down??? Don't you only want to charge it with the Freon gas & non of the liquid that maybe in there??? Thought you were a pro
-14°F SST? 🤔 Probably goin to need to add a defrost clock to this system. 🤣 No wait over night! 😳 That was static pressure? Hey guys that's NOT a saturated pressure at room temperature.
This is more an infomercial for what they do. Compressors have two connections ... a liquid line, which is hot and a suction line which is cold. The bullet-piercing valve goes on the cold side. If your compressor has a short stub of pipe (which was used to charge the unit, when new), just attach the bullet-piercing valve to this, for charging.
15 psi low side????? I do refrigerators but, usually low side pressure on a working refrigerator is anywhere from +1 to max.+5 psi(low side). is wine cooler any different than a refrigerator???
I guess the sticker on the appliance would tell you the correct value, but 15psi seems high. I only recharge my fridge/freezer to somewhere between 2-5PSI.
A standard house hold refrigerator is different, because it is not really a refrigerator. A so called Household refrigerator is actually freezer with a refrigerator section. With both sections cooling at the same time. Generally a wine refrigerator won't set below 40°F.
I really appreciate the lesson here. I'd bring my Danby into you to get you to fix it but Toronto is a bit far away! Thanks for the video!
If you are going to do a sealed system leak repair, it is best to locate the leak first and make the repair. You can break each side of the system down and use nitrogen charge to see if it holds pressure. you can evacuate and see if it losses vacuum or you can use a dye drier and locate the leak. You should always change the drier filter when making a repair. I do not trust can sealers. 30 years in the business and prefer to do it the correct way. If this works for him. Great. I have no issue with what he chooses to do. He done a great job using a digital scale to charge.
My thoughts exactly :) As well - you do need a license to purchase Freon.
@@denisdavidenkov7603 you can walk into Walmart and buy R134a all day long without a license.
134A is available everywhere@@denisdavidenkov7603
Did you try using a leak detector near the evaporators? A lot of the time, evaps will leak rather at the sides where they were welded or where the copper vapor line is connected to the aluminum of the evap. Replacing the evap in that case is the better fix.
THANKS for the video. I will try this as an amateur. 🙂
when initially checking "Freon" which is a misnomer it's actually refrigerant , one should use no loss refrigerant gauges, not a manifold, Also at 15 lbs of pressure isn't that equal to something like a 15 degree coil? you'll end up freezing it. Also if adding a stop leak , which I personally wouldn't do, purge the hose first otherwise you'll end up contaminating the system with non condensables.
Your hose should be evacuated when you are running the pump. No reason to purge a hose.
Fix the leak, Purge the hoses! And find a trash can that needs a can of fix a flat. Also r-134a is not freon...
I have a KitchenAid wine cooler. The amperage draw on the compressor is low and the unit is not cooling. I'm guessing it's low on R134. Will add service port and check low-side with gauges. Thanks for the video.
Th also for sharing, do you have a video showing how to replace the thermostat on a danby designer wine cooler. Thermostat is digital
Did you bleed your lines before filling?
How much does a repair like this cost?
I noticed you did not bleed your lines so all I see you doing was introducing a lot of air in the unit be for the refrigerant. always charge as as a liquid on 134.
I have a Vinopazzo LBWC154DS-LBBC772DS dual compartment that looks similar to that. I was not cooling at all, compressor runs. I added a service port, evacuated and charged with R134 and it's cooling now, but ONLY the top half. The bottom fan is not turning but is not seized. The outside back panel is not removable and it seems I'd have to take all the parts out from the inside to get the inside back panel off to get to the fan? The schematic is not very clear on where the fan connects to the control board. Any thoughts?? Thanks,
Should't we be adding the supper seal after adding the R-134a not before ??
I live in Illinois, I can't anyone to touch my Danby under the counter unit. Danby repair man say the replace the whole unit. I tried to go elsewhere & they said it's illegal to repair in Illinois. Is that universal in other states as well? After viewing a few repair videos I received a petition to allow this type of work to be done.
Just buy a bullet-piercing valve, a cheap hose and gauge and a can of R134a ... all off Amazon ... and do the repair yourself for under $40.
We have a Danby Wine Cooler DWC283BLS-1.
* Why is compressor extremely hot to the touch?
* In addition to replacing the fans, what additional parts should consider replacing?
* Where can I find replacement part numbers?
For years, the system has maintained a consistent temp (lower 45 and upper 55). Recently, I noticed a noise from the inside and like a fan turning on and ON and IMMEDIATELY OFF. No clicking sounds.
1) The compressor is getting power BUT VERY HOT to the touch.
2) I do not know if the HEATER FAN is working correctly or not, and I have yet to see it move. This is the more massive fan against the back wall.
3) The noise was from the more massive air-cycling fan, and after a gentle vacuum of both fans, the sound stopped. I think the bearings are going out on the fans.
4) Before closing the door, I set the (lower 41 and upper 55), and after one hour, we are at (lower 50 and upper 55). This good considering it took me about five-ten minutes to identify the problem fan, vacuum out the inside, and the temp was at 64/64 when closing the door.
I wished I live in Texas, and thank you for your videos. Excellent work, and thank you for your support.
The refrigerant helps cool the compressor. If you are out of refrigerant the compressor can be hot to the touch.
Did you figure out what the problem was? I have the same model, doing the same thing.
No, I gave up and put it to the end of the curb.
i have a similar issue with an Avanti dual zone fridge. Is the repair similar? how much would such a repair cost?
so good
YouShould check for leaks before you add refrigerant
Question is where did the Freon go ?
Is super seal should be added when system is charged?
3.5 oz and can as freon too. So your overcharged now.
please make a video when a compressor fails, these sealers will kill the compressor with in year, just put dye in it and next time just find a leak
No they don’t. Or at least not on an older one like from 96. I used a different brand leak Sealer and I did also put some UV dye leak detector in it as a guy recommended… still running now. No issues. It’s been well over a year. Pumped it down before I did anything else tho.
As you’re supposed to. Because it was dead for over a year. So I definitely pulled a vacuum. One guy didn’t pump his tho. He just filled it but it didn’t hurt it. Still running now I think.
Check for leaks with nitrogen
I have questions my Denby cooler compressor is running. Freon is low but the back of the cooler say low side psi 90 is that right
Y'all open today? I was gonna bring my wine fridge in
is the same for ice cream bin charging?
How do you make it colder
I would like to know if you vacuum the system the refrigerato need to be of o on
My wine cooler has a similar design. Does anyone know how to remove the rear panel please? No visible screws/clips or anything... I need to gain access to the wiring inside. Thank you!
I wonder how to replace oil on this freon compressor?
Yeah 134a is a pure "refrigerant" which means it can be charged as liquid or vapor. plzz don't say freon
What happens if there turns out to be a small amount of R134a in system and or moisture when you run the vacuum pump? Does the vacuum pump release the moisture somehow? If the system only holds a certain amount of refrigerant and you add the sealer, does somehow that leave less room in the system for the R134a?
David Hershberger umm I’m no rocket scientist but you can boil water at 70 degrees if under a vacuum,, water evaporates and turns into a ... keep studying and learning
You will not have enough left to worry about. Full size sxs frig uses between 4 to 5 ounces.
r134 is not freon, its refrigerant. you didn't purge your lines so you blew air right back into the system. that can of fix-a-flat is a joke. where did you learn this hack work?
I couldn't agree with u more. I've done sealed system repairs for a long time and if I worked on the same company he worked for I know I would go and fix his mistakes
Not only that the instructions on the can say charge the system with refrigerant then add the can...
the best way is to find the leak!!!!purge nitrogen.....all this stuff kills compressor
AMEN
to whom. I have a Kenmore chest freezer. I bought it new and used it about 2 yrs. my wife and I decided to storage it. The freezer was storaged about 8 yrs. this week, we decided to use it. The freezer was not damaged. I notice the cooler system was not after 2 hours. I check for problems and could not locate any problem. Question, I noticed buzz noises from the compressor. Does this means out of cooler, does buzz noises means compressor no good, do I have leaks, or what?
Jerome Eady leaked
Can u put in with out the havc
Hi i have a danby fridge and I tried to put the refrigerant but this one said high side 274 psi and low side 90 psi so i charged and is in 90 in the monometer but I saw your video and you never reach more than 30. could be over charged y winner?
My say the same thing but when charge at 80 it’s not cold at all temp only drop to 68
Hi please a need some help I need to replace the compressor oil for R 134a any brand you recommend and how much do I need please thanks
is the compressor supposed to be hot?
the 10 to 15 psi on low pressure is for all kin of cooler???
Where is the high side valve you don't know if you got a restriction or if low on refrigerant it a cap tube system .you need both side low/high side of the seal system .Please don't use that stuff for leaks ,find leak and repair the leak pre EPA critical charge only 3 oz of refrigerant please leak check the system and you didn't change drier every time you open the seal system change drier where superheat/sub cool reading before after charging where the amp off the compressor .
I seen he had an access valve on the drier. Never put a hose on it.
so you charged 3.5 oz of refrigerant (plus a bunch of air), but what about the ~1oz you already put in of that fix a leak trash???? you have added air and overcharged the system. plus you never actually found or even looked for the source of the leak which is the root of this whole problem.
If he added A bunch of air to it wouldn’t work properly. Plus if he Overcharged the system there would be frost buildup on the suction line back to the compressor.
@@chrisscott5339 Air has moisture and it's a non-condenseable gas. It tends to hang out in the condenser reducing its efficiency. Air doesn't condense so it can take up a lot of space in the condenser. Depending on the oil used the moisture can cause the oil to turn back into an acid. The moisture can also cause ice to form in the metering device. Air in a system is all bad.
His procedures here are quite poor.
@@markcarpenter3600 Right air in the system is not good. But how do you know he pumped it full of air? If it’s filled with air it won’t run properly. Wouldn’t even frost all the way. The only metering device in a refrigerator/ freezer I know of is the filter drier. Which filters out any contaminants. And if the drier gets plugged it’ll freeze up and the unit won’t get cold enough.
@@markcarpenter3600 It won’t run with an iced up filter drier.
Refrigerant flows though that hotdog shaped Filter drier and up through the capillary tube.
This comment section is fully of whiny little you-know-whats. The video maker is trying to help someone with no tools or knowledge. Take it easy.
I have the same system, I transported it on its side and now it doesn't work, any fixes?
Let it sit overnight before running. That allows the oil to drain back down.
What size of compressor is it how do you know how much gas to put in let me know thanks
usually on a label somewhere on the unit, or online in unit specs. states the weight of refrigerant charge required.
DWC2121 Silhouette Wine Cooler
cant we charge liquid instead of vapor?
caloy caloy , he could charge as a liquid but not into the suction line port (Low side) because then the compressor would be sucking liquid, he would have to charge liquid into the liquid line port, (high side) which is after the condenser but before the metering device. 134a is a pure compound so there is no fractionation, fractionation occurs in blends which are not azetropic. azeotropic blends are composed of multiple refrigerants that share a single common boiling point. when there is a temperature glide during the change of state from liquid to gas one component of the blend will change state before the other(s), this happens in Zeotropic blends and Near-azeotropic blends to a lesser degree. if the system was running on another refrigerant say 407c he could not charge as gas, as 407c is a blend comprised of R 32, R 125 and R 134a, it would be entirely possible that only one or two of the components would be in gas state while the other(s) were still in liquid. so In in the case of zeotropic refrigerant blends like the one just mentioned they have to be charged only as liquids.
thank's for sharing!!!!!
Why did you turn the cab upside down??? Don't you only want to charge it with the Freon gas & non of the liquid that maybe in there??? Thought you were a pro
15 psi vapor line are you serious?
-14°F SST? 🤔 Probably goin to need to add a defrost clock to this system. 🤣
No wait over night! 😳 That was static pressure? Hey guys that's NOT a saturated pressure at room temperature.
How do we know where the lowside is?
This is more an infomercial for what they do.
Compressors have two connections ... a liquid line, which is hot and a suction line which is cold. The bullet-piercing valve goes on the cold side. If your compressor has a short stub of pipe (which was used to charge the unit, when new), just attach the bullet-piercing valve to this, for charging.
mark g thank you!
15 psi low side????? I do refrigerators but, usually low side pressure on a working refrigerator is anywhere from +1 to max.+5 psi(low side). is wine cooler any different than a refrigerator???
No. They are about the same. Some refrigerators, Whirlpool is one where pressure can be 1 to 3 inches of vacuum.
A fridge only will run much higher pressures than a fridge with freezer.
I guess the sticker on the appliance would tell you the correct value, but 15psi seems high. I only recharge my fridge/freezer to somewhere between 2-5PSI.
As long as you put the correct amount it requires, pressures shouldn’t be an issue. That would be the amount required by the manufacturer.
A standard house hold refrigerator is different, because it is not really a refrigerator. A so called Household refrigerator is actually freezer with a refrigerator section. With both sections cooling at the same time.
Generally a wine refrigerator won't set below 40°F.
God this is not a air condenser you're flooded the system. Cap tubes will soon stop up due to this sealer.
OMG
Anyone have the phone number to the EPA??? Wake-up call is needed here.
Trump doesn't give a damn so don't even bother.
I was thinking the same,and he contaminated the system by not purge the line on gauge.he put air in there by installing while running
So many things wrong with what this guy is doing. Sorry but he would not be working on anything of mine.
You literally did everything wrong here. Sorry. Keep learning
Fail. 👎👎👎
I have a question. I have a Dandy 6 bottle mini wine cooler model # DWC620PL-SC. Is this unit a Thermo electric? Please advise. Thank you