I noticed a sharp "click" sound when you tightened the long screw down tight! Mine made the same noise as I was following your instructions.. But on mine the click sound was my brand new hub breaking!! So.. Thanks for the bad info.. I don't know who's dumber. You telling people to crank it down "hard as you can" or us for listening to you and breaking parts! I can't be the only one who broke a hub while watching this video! I didn't even crank it that hard!!
I did the exact same shit, dude, except, I tried myself first, then watched a video to see if someone had any tips on HOW MUCH TO ACTUALLY TIGHTEN the fucker. Short answer, NOPE! lol. Guess we're on our own.......
Yup mine made the same noise put it back in my typhon 60 seconds of run time quits getting power take it home and the whole clutch pack just falls apart while taking it out.
@@bra1nc417d after buying another new slipper hub.. I tightened the long screw just til it compressed the spring and stopped.. Then backed it out one turn. Assembled and tuned slipper with the tire drag method.. Success! This guys video is garbage! Lesson learned. Don't believe every jackass you see on you tube
That loud CRACK sound, was you over tightening it and breaking it LMAO. I did the same shit. The inner part of the half where the screw is inserted through, snapped right off. Seems pretty weak.
That plastic piece at the rear end to tighten the screw is garbage. It get stripped easily. I replaced it with small hex nut and it's super tight now (the ones that is included with some motor fans). Thanks for sharing.
I think there are a couple of misinformations in the video: if you tighten it like in the video, you ll probably break the golden part of one side of the clutch hubs. It might not necessarily straight break your slipper clutch, because it would still hold together, but next time you d take it apart it would be dead. And slipper hub would need to be replaced The other part is about the black plastic sleeve thing. Even the manual is misleading, because on the slipper clutch exploded view it shows red first, black plastic sleeve second. On the cars full exploded view it shows like OP, plastic sleeve first and red thing second.
there's one important part 6oy missed the little black piece that goes into the other side of the slipper. Also when you tighten it like that you freak that gold piece and I'm sure that's the sound it made. you do not wanna hear that crank
I’m surprised how tight you were reefing that poor screw I’ve never seen anyone tighten them so much. That new bearing in there must really be the fix those slippers needed.
Hi thanks for the helpful vid I bought a slipper clutch maintenance set AR310882 for my kraton 4s but upon tighten its not tightening I am a bit lost I might have to order your one
I noticed you only back the screw off a 1/4 turn from tight. From the factory it's 2 full turns off tight. You don't think your's is to tight? I've blown a few rear diffs with a tight clutch.
No I don’t know How much different the hot racing Metal Spur Gear is then the armor one I but on the arm and one you have to add an extra slipper pad. Or else you will have a lot of slop when you mount it back up which will cause you to strip out spur gears
I tried to follow this video but my spur spins very free with the screw all the way tight I don’t want to put it all back together just for it not to work still my clutch disks all look fine the car is still pretty new
I got some bigger tires for the arma.there Much bigger.i put the 21 tooth pin gear that came with it.should I put the stock 17 or 18 back in for the difference in tire size.?
Typically that is a good idea. If after you drive it with the 17 you feel like it needs more speed, and can handle it, then go back to the 21. Or you could just try it as is, and if that's not too much stress on the motor, just run it with the 21.
Indeed, I should have mentioned that is the standard specification. Though from my experience, I find that it is a bit loose for the level of bashing I do and Arrma no doubt built these machines to handle : )
If your brushed slipper isnt tightening you may need to replace the composite nut on the end. if it's the brushless one, it may be the threads in the plate stripped. Hope this helps.
it likely does run slightly hotter, though it really isn't that noticeable, plus if you've got a heat sink and fan on it like I do it's totally no sweat.
For the metal spur, I thought you needed 4 pads, no? The manual says to turn back the slipper clutch screw 1.75 turns, but you elected to go to only 0.5 turn. Was that decision based off of experience of it otherwise being too loose? Curious why the change from spec. Thanks for the video by the way. Very clearly explained and good detail. Focus on the camera could be better, but great content and well orchestrated nonetheless. I was expecting you to sing half way through the video. Haha.
I have had a few people ask me if it is 4. I believe the spur used in this video is an older version of from Hot Racing, which cannot fit 4 (I did try). And yes, in my experience 1.75 turns seems to be too loose, though that will depend on application to an extent. I really beat on mine, but if you aren't as harsh less tight may work just as well.
@@fullandtenth6405 tried that even bought a new service kit with the spring washer and screw Just ordered complete spur gear £48 Avent a clue its like it notches out so far in Never come across this before simple job Cheers for ur help
you may need to put some thread locker on the screw before installing it. that would prevent it from backing out and loosening the slipper while driving.
Yep, after reading the comments i realized that my hobbyshop gave me 4 slipper plates when i bought the metal spur gear. 2 on both sides. Instant success. 3 days i spent messing with the spur gear. O well live and learn right.
I noticed a sharp "click" sound when you tightened the long screw down tight! Mine made the same noise as I was following your instructions.. But on mine the click sound was my brand new hub breaking!! So.. Thanks for the bad info.. I don't know who's dumber. You telling people to crank it down "hard as you can" or us for listening to you and breaking parts! I can't be the only one who broke a hub while watching this video! I didn't even crank it that hard!!
I did the exact same shit, dude, except, I tried myself first, then watched a video to see if someone had any tips on HOW MUCH TO ACTUALLY TIGHTEN the fucker. Short answer, NOPE! lol. Guess we're on our own.......
Yup mine made the same noise put it back in my typhon 60 seconds of run time quits getting power take it home and the whole clutch pack just falls apart while taking it out.
@@bra1nc417d after buying another new slipper hub.. I tightened the long screw just til it compressed the spring and stopped.. Then backed it out one turn. Assembled and tuned slipper with the tire drag method.. Success! This guys video is garbage! Lesson learned. Don't believe every jackass you see on you tube
Me too. This is terrible advice
The loud SNAP let’s you know it’s working.
That loud CRACK sound, was you over tightening it and breaking it LMAO. I did the same shit. The inner part of the half where the screw is inserted through, snapped right off. Seems pretty weak.
When I try to tighten my screw in breaks the metal housing
same every time
Yup, same shit.
Bought the whole piece slipper clutch and spur gear and it's a different size now I have the Dremel my rear differential
Great video glad to see there’s still Lao e good kids out there tinkering with rc cars
That plastic piece at the rear end to tighten the screw is garbage. It get stripped easily. I replaced it with small hex nut and it's super tight now (the ones that is included with some motor fans). Thanks for sharing.
I agree, I've seen several people over tighten and strip it.
How to break your slipper hub lol
Great video.. exactly what I needed! Thanks
Thx alot I did what you did and my screw snaped
Congrats
Yeah. I tightened it like he did and broke my brand new hub! Bad video! Lesson learned.
@@charleswayne7221 Yup. Same.
I think there are a couple of misinformations in the video: if you tighten it like in the video, you ll probably break the golden part of one side of the clutch hubs. It might not necessarily straight break your slipper clutch, because it would still hold together, but next time you d take it apart it would be dead. And slipper hub would need to be replaced
The other part is about the black plastic sleeve thing. Even the manual is misleading, because on the slipper clutch exploded view it shows red first, black plastic sleeve second. On the cars full exploded view it shows like OP, plastic sleeve first and red thing second.
there's one important part 6oy missed the little black piece that goes into the other side of the slipper. Also when you tighten it like that you freak that gold piece and I'm sure that's the sound it made. you do not wanna hear that crank
Thanks! Well made!
So it's a 2mm to take out the screw and a 2.5..to put it back in and do you need to put thread locker on the screw ??
No Loc-Tite? What about the black plastic piece that is cut to fit down into the shaft?
Right, Im curious about that too. Another video said its for 4s, but who the fuck really knows ,, as my 3s Typhon had it in by default lol.
Bravo!!molto interessante ed utile per il mio Granite nice video thanks a lot
I’m surprised how tight you were reefing that poor screw
I’ve never seen anyone tighten them so much. That new bearing in there must really be the fix those slippers needed.
I tightened screw like he did and broke my hub! Lesson learned
I also broke my hub
No doubt !
Well the red peice goes inside the black peice on the end.
Hi thanks for the helpful vid I bought a slipper clutch maintenance set AR310882 for my kraton 4s but upon tighten its not tightening I am a bit lost I might have to order your one
Awesome, and thank you!
Wonderful video. Thank you
I noticed you only back the screw off a 1/4 turn from tight. From the factory it's 2 full turns off tight. You don't think your's is to tight? I've blown a few rear diffs with a tight clutch.
No I don’t know How much different the hot racing Metal Spur Gear is then the armor one I but on the arm and one you have to add an extra slipper pad. Or else you will have a lot of slop when you mount it back up which will cause you to strip out spur gears
I tried to tighten my slipper and it just feel apart in my hands...... it will not go back together . any ideas ?
Thank you sir.
But what about the bearings? How to get the one off the back side?
Is my slippery clutch worn out because it gets loose after a minute of driving or do I just need a little bit of locktite to the screw?
Hello,
what is the name of the screwdriver you use.
Could you send the purchase link on Ebay or Amazon please
Onyx rc tools
I tried to follow this video but my spur spins very free with the screw all the way tight I don’t want to put it all back together just for it not to work still my clutch disks all look fine the car is still pretty new
I got some bigger tires for the arma.there Much bigger.i put the 21 tooth pin gear that came with it.should I put the stock 17 or 18 back in for the difference in tire size.?
Typically that is a good idea. If after you drive it with the 17 you feel like it needs more speed, and can handle it, then go back to the 21. Or you could just try it as is, and if that's not too much stress on the motor, just run it with the 21.
My slipper pads look about the same, can't feel grooves but, just black marks, how much more life do you think I could get out of them?
Nice video man,
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Would this work for the 550 mega senton
Mine keeps coming loose and tricks any thing is new
is this slipper set compatible with the arrma senton mega?
Great video thanks!!
Glad you liked it!
If your slipper pads are not worn too bad on slipper rebuild you can always flip them over
Hey there's a small black piece for the screen that goes into the short end of the clutch, very important
Thank you I was wondering where the extra piece in the rebuild kit went!
I got a brushed one a week ago i just bought a brushless motor and slipper pads, I want speed lol
They are so much fun with even just a 2s! You won't regret it.
@@fullandtenth6405 yeah I’m having trouble with the motor I just bought, so I’m gonna try to fix it tomorrow
Should’nt it be fully tight and then 1.5 turns loose and not a quarter turn?
Indeed, I should have mentioned that is the standard specification. Though from my experience, I find that it is a bit loose for the level of bashing I do and Arrma no doubt built these machines to handle : )
I hate these. Every time i try to rebuild them I cannot get it togheter properly, always spin loose. And if I try to tighten it something breaks.
My slipper clutch wasn’t tightening so Im hoping this would fix it
If your brushed slipper isnt tightening you may need to replace the composite nut on the end. if it's the brushless one, it may be the threads in the plate stripped. Hope this helps.
does your motor run hotter with the steel spur gear? that's the only thing keeping me from upgrading to steel
it likely does run slightly hotter, though it really isn't that noticeable, plus if you've got a heat sink and fan on it like I do it's totally no sweat.
When that noise comes that means you broke it the super clutch you broke it and you know that that's loose again the middle of this
Is it true that if you use the Arrma steel spur gear, you must use 4 clutch pads, 2 on each side?
No, it is still 3 for the Arrma spur as well.
@@fullandtenth6405 Check out the first 40 seconds...so this dude is incorrect? ua-cam.com/video/q9dYa1QLYVQ/v-deo.html
This doesn’t work I did it and the spur moves like nothing grinding on it
For the metal spur, I thought you needed 4 pads, no? The manual says to turn back the slipper clutch screw 1.75 turns, but you elected to go to only 0.5 turn. Was that decision based off of experience of it otherwise being too loose? Curious why the change from spec. Thanks for the video by the way. Very clearly explained and good detail.
Focus on the camera could be better, but great content and well orchestrated nonetheless. I was expecting you to sing half way through the video. Haha.
I have had a few people ask me if it is 4. I believe the spur used in this video is an older version of from Hot Racing, which cannot fit 4 (I did try). And yes, in my experience 1.75 turns seems to be too loose, though that will depend on application to an extent. I really beat on mine, but if you aren't as harsh less tight may work just as well.
@@fullandtenth6405 I’m having a little trouble with wheelies and thinking maybe to tighten up my slipper like you have.
To set the slipper its 1.5 turns out thats factory
Get the new clutch
My screw won’t tighten up tight
it is most likely the threads are stripped, if you can find a small nut to thread onto the other end of the screw that would be the easiest fix.
@@fullandtenth6405 tried that even bought a new service kit with the spring washer and screw
Just ordered complete spur gear £48
Avent a clue its like it notches out so far in
Never come across this before simple job
Cheers for ur help
Mine is slipping and the more you drive, the more loose it gets. Can someone help?
you may need to put some thread locker on the screw before installing it. that would prevent it from backing out and loosening the slipper while driving.
@@fullandtenth6405 Thanks, I did just that and it doesnt get loose anymore.
Use 4 pads i works better
Yep, after reading the comments i realized that my hobbyshop gave me 4 slipper plates when i bought the metal spur gear. 2 on both sides. Instant success. 3 days i spent messing with the spur gear. O well live and learn right.