@somewhatfast I’d look into a proportioning valve to prevent the rears from locking up before the fronts. Had that issue when I converted my rears from drum to disc on my truck
I don't know how similar the front brakes are between 55 and 58 but on Dylan McCools channel he used front brakes from a Chrysler 5th Avenue (Dodge Diplomat, Plymouth Gran Fury) on a '58 Plymouth he was building
I put that same style of exhaust cutout on my dad's 64 galaxie with a 500HP 445 FE stroker and let me tell you, they suck. Both of mine leak like crazy when the blades are closed and they close nice and tight, and they don't always open and close like they should with the remote. I wish I never put them on. The power brake booster with that bracket looks just like the one I bought. I found that not using the Z bar linkage setup and bolting the two brackets on up side down let me stick the pushrod from the booster right through the firewall hole and connected it using a manual brake adjustable pushrod kit. It looks like you could have done the exact same thing here. Sadly, the engine makes so poor vacuum I had to use a vacuum pump and reservoir for it to work and got to the point I didn't trust any of it, so I converted it to manual brakes. The booster was nice though.
I had to use the zbar on mine, I expect the cutouts to leak I'm hoping if I run a short section and dump it after the cutoout it won't be too noticeable.
@@somewhatfast Yeah if you run pipe out closer to the back it shouldn't be as noticeable. The front end of the car sounds like it has flowmasters dumping out under the middle of the car and the rear end of the car sounds like it has magnaflows, which it does. I plan to just have the exhaust completely re done again eventually, not happy with it. Way too loud lol.
I have a 1968 dodge power wagon w200 and having a hard time finding a power brake booster, and idea what will work for my application? It has a power brake booster now but I can't seem to find a part number.
That's gunna be a tricky one. D series ans W series all use same master cylinder mount pattern. Its shows 1971 trucks have pkwer boosters and use the same part number master cylinder. But they use a special bracket to mount the booster. They sell full kits online for around $1500. It comes with disk brakes master, brackets, the whole 9 yards. Or you could just buy one of those cheap boosters like i bought off ebay and just drill 4 mounting holes and make it work.
I restored my car slapped on new tires Been sitting since 2019 Can’t drive it due to bad booster I have cylinder but can’t find a matching booster till this day I’m wondering will this bolt on easily and work or will I have to order a random booster and make new holes Ect.
Good working it out, WTF is Up with the prices, for some hose, clamps and a fitting it's like that every place you go... not Cool and the crap at the store is coming from the same place as the crap from e Bay or Amazon, CCP.
I agree, It's getting a little ridiculous. You buy a China part cheap online and end up spending more at the local store for miscellaneous pieces than you paid for the whole Kit!!!
@@somewhatfast yeah it is ridiculous and I hope to see it reverse, we'll have to see... love that Plymouth, you ever decide to move it on, I'd be VERY interested.. 👍
“Hi, I bought jegs conversion kit and installed it. However, I’ve encountered a strange problem. The brake works well overall, but sometimes when I push the pedal, I lose the brake, and it becomes stiff.{as like the engin is off and i have to push with two legs} but When I push it again, it returns to normal. Can you assist me why?
@sirenswhispering You are loosing your power brakes. Either you have a vacuum leak from the hose, fitting, or internally in the booster. Wiggle the hose around and check for leaks. Also have someone keep pushing the brakes while you listen for a random air leak to form as soon as it happens. Or the booster could just be bad. Is your car cammed? Make sure you have sufficient vacuum to run power brakes and that your vacuum line is connected to the proper port on the carburetor/intake. Good luck
@@somewhatfast i appreciate you. Probably as you mentioned the internal booster is bad, although i bought a new jegs brake booster and master cylinder. No there is no commad, i renew all the hoses, drums, and pads with lines, and there is no any leaking, my engine is 4.3 stock with holley sniper 1. I wonder why it happened sometimes, for example i drove about 45 min without any problem, when i wanted to park my car, suddenly i lose a brke and become stiff and immediately i push it again came back to normal. I dont think the iternal air in the line it could be reason. The only possible is my new own booster.
@somewhatfast I’d look into a proportioning valve to prevent the rears from locking up before the fronts. Had that issue when I converted my rears from drum to disc on my truck
I put a Proportioning valve that I pulled off a 67 f100 if you watched my disk brake conversion video.
I don't know how similar the front brakes are between 55 and 58 but on Dylan McCools channel he used front brakes from a Chrysler 5th Avenue (Dodge Diplomat, Plymouth Gran Fury) on a '58 Plymouth he was building
Oh wow I'll have to check that out and see what he did! Thank you
I put that same style of exhaust cutout on my dad's 64 galaxie with a 500HP 445 FE stroker and let me tell you, they suck. Both of mine leak like crazy when the blades are closed and they close nice and tight, and they don't always open and close like they should with the remote. I wish I never put them on. The power brake booster with that bracket looks just like the one I bought. I found that not using the Z bar linkage setup and bolting the two brackets on up side down let me stick the pushrod from the booster right through the firewall hole and connected it using a manual brake adjustable pushrod kit. It looks like you could have done the exact same thing here. Sadly, the engine makes so poor vacuum I had to use a vacuum pump and reservoir for it to work and got to the point I didn't trust any of it, so I converted it to manual brakes. The booster was nice though.
I had to use the zbar on mine, I expect the cutouts to leak I'm hoping if I run a short section and dump it after the cutoout it won't be too noticeable.
@@somewhatfast Yeah if you run pipe out closer to the back it shouldn't be as noticeable. The front end of the car sounds like it has flowmasters dumping out under the middle of the car and the rear end of the car sounds like it has magnaflows, which it does. I plan to just have the exhaust completely re done again eventually, not happy with it. Way too loud lol.
Beautiful car and Great video! That must have been a pain in the butt. Thank you. 😀
Thank you ajaks7636
Outstanding work 👍👍👌👌👏👏
You do not want to get brake fluid on your paint! Nice wagon!
Painted it with rattle cans it needs to be painted again I just did a scuff and shoot to make it look a little better
There's some on ebay $95 to $160 AUD. Need to do my 54 Dodge to past registration next year.
Thanks for the video
💪
Looks great but you know the old saying 😅. Chrome don't get you Home. I love chrome but it's a pain to keep polished and cleaned.
I'm new to the bling bling but man I've been finding deals on chrome stuff!
@@somewhatfast well if it's at a good deal, you can never go wrong then.
I have a 1968 dodge power wagon w200 and having a hard time finding a power brake booster, and idea what will work for my application? It has a power brake booster now but I can't seem to find a part number.
That's gunna be a tricky one. D series ans W series all use same master cylinder mount pattern. Its shows 1971 trucks have pkwer boosters and use the same part number master cylinder. But they use a special bracket to mount the booster. They sell full kits online for around $1500. It comes with disk brakes master, brackets, the whole 9 yards. Or you could just buy one of those cheap boosters like i bought off ebay and just drill 4 mounting holes and make it work.
I restored my car slapped on new tires
Been sitting since 2019
Can’t drive it due to bad booster
I have cylinder but can’t find a matching booster till this day
I’m wondering will this bolt on easily and work or will I have to order a random booster and make new holes Ect.
@thehomiejuan1306 what kind of car is it?
Good working it out, WTF is Up with the prices, for some hose, clamps and a fitting it's like that every place you go... not Cool and the crap at the store is coming from the same place as the crap from e Bay or Amazon, CCP.
I agree, It's getting a little ridiculous. You buy a China part cheap online and end up spending more at the local store for miscellaneous pieces than you paid for the whole Kit!!!
@@somewhatfast yeah it is ridiculous and I hope to see it reverse, we'll have to see... love that Plymouth, you ever decide to move it on, I'd be VERY interested.. 👍
Just rebuild the stock stuff
Stock stuff??? It had a single chamber single rubber line master cylinder from the factory with drum brakes. Now I have 4 wheel power disk brakes
“Hi, I bought jegs conversion kit and installed it. However, I’ve encountered a strange problem. The brake works well overall, but sometimes when I push the pedal, I lose the brake, and it becomes stiff.{as like the engin is off and i have to push with two legs} but When I push it again, it returns to normal. Can you assist me why?
@sirenswhispering You are loosing your power brakes. Either you have a vacuum leak from the hose, fitting, or internally in the booster. Wiggle the hose around and check for leaks. Also have someone keep pushing the brakes while you listen for a random air leak to form as soon as it happens. Or the booster could just be bad. Is your car cammed? Make sure you have sufficient vacuum to run power brakes and that your vacuum line is connected to the proper port on the carburetor/intake. Good luck
@@somewhatfast i appreciate you. Probably as you mentioned the internal booster is bad, although i bought a new jegs brake booster and master cylinder. No there is no commad, i renew all the hoses, drums, and pads with lines, and there is no any leaking, my engine is 4.3 stock with holley sniper 1. I wonder why it happened sometimes, for example i drove about 45 min without any problem, when i wanted to park my car, suddenly i lose a brke and become stiff and immediately i push it again came back to normal. I dont think the iternal air in the line it could be reason. The only possible is my new own booster.
Does that vehicle have all drumb brakes or disc in front??🤔
Disk front and rear
@@somewhatfast 🏁🏁🏁 nice upgrades.
thanks
Your welcome
👍🏻🇦🇺
👍💪
Just traded a wiper switch and Guage cluster out of that ram charger for a dual plane intake for a 440!