This video is absolutely amazing and well explained. One of the best videos on UA-cam providing instructions on how to install siding. No ego. No fluff. All facts. I love that you provided a list of tools and equipment needed to get the job done - explained what it's like as a one or two man job. This instructional video is superb! Five Stars. Bravo! Well done. Thank you for taking the time.
I don't see a drainage plain behind the sliding. We strip our houses with 1 x 3's first over the studs. The bottom always starts with Cor-A-Vent wrapped with mesh. That guarantees a 3/4 inch air space behind the siding.
Very amazing presentation, very clear explanations, camera doesn't move constantly, no background noise, pointing at every single spot just like it's a well designed documentary! I'd say this has been the best video that I've ever seen! The only thing is that I wish you could also demonstrate how you do the top part (the triangle as in gable area) and how you could manage cutting the cement board edges right with the perfect angle. Thank you so much for your time and for your amazing demonstration 👍👏😍🙏
The bloopers at the end are classic. I really enjoy your content you have a lot of knowledge. Hope you and your family are well. Who ever ends up buying that home is very lucky.
Great job explaining things as you go along! I picked up a tip on cutting out the notch on the cutting table. It sucks not having the extra hands at times when dealing with the long boards but you are soldiering your way through it. The ending was funny!
I love watching how fast this remodel is coming along. It sure has come a long way than when we first saw it in the vlog. Well done Joel! Excited to see where this project takes you.
Gecko gauges are a awesome toll and helper. I use Duo Fast siding nailer( awesome tool) . I use a compact grinder (4 1/2 inches diameter diamond blade) to cut the cement board, Tyvek wrapping “plastic” and the rest is pretty much the same setup! Great video !
I’ve built, as a DIY, quite a few cement board buildings. Nice explanation. Of course everyone does things a little differently. So take my comments with a grain or a pound of salt. I won’t mention the things others have pointed out. Good on the shim board at the bottom. But use a narrow strip of the cement board instead of the wood. Don’t use the galvanized nails you are using. Those are electrogalvanized. They WILL rust. Cement board is very corrosive. More dollars but use SS nails. No discoloration and more durable. Good that you put the flashing behind the joint. Good that you space the panels with a gap. Same at the trim. Much easier to caulk a 1/8” gap than a 1/16” also. As to cutting the boards. I normally use Hardie, or Hardie knock off. They are a bit longer, 12’, which makes it nicer. Hardie is 5/16”. (And pre-primed) Looks like your stuff is thicker. I use a sliding chop saw with a cement board blade. A bit faster. Always wear a mask and cut with the wind blowing the dust away from you. I also use a Kett Hardie shear. Doesn’t make as nice a cut, but less dust. Nice for cutting odd shapes. I don’t use the Gecko gages, though they are fine. I like the gauge that hangs from the top of the plank. Very ingenious. And you really can’t have slippage on the gauge, and ONE person can do it all. There are advantages to each, but once I’ve nailed down the siding, I really don’t like prying it up even a little as the Gecko requires. Hardie/knockoff trim is a bit thicker than your trim, so the siding sits below the trim, even on the bottom of a board, so easier to caulk also. Another comment is you don’t show how you nail up the trim, but looks like you use brads, which is the way to go. But I really suggest using SS brads! They hold great and again, no rust! And you don’t get to the top of the trim for the windows. I’d really suggest using Z flashing for the top of the window. Final comment is the flashing tape around the windows prior to putting on the planks, doesn’t look to be secured well. The weakest point for rot is around doors and windows. Use the best tape and make sure it is adhered well. Lots of points, but we agree, cement board is a great product. Paint sticks to it very well. Good video.
If the wall behind the siding is properly waterproofed why do you need to flash the gaps between the boards, especially since the bottom of the flashing doesn't overlap on top of the board below, carrying water that gets into the gap away from the underlying waterproofing layer?
Love watching you work on the house it's going to be beautiful inside and out . If I lived in Utah I'd buy it 👍 hope your back feels better . Hugs Maria
What material do you use for the starter shim at the bottom? Looked like wood. I'm installing some Hardie Plank and they suggest ripping a piece of fiber cement board as the starter piece.
Great explanation video! Just happen to come across it as we are repairing our modern home that has 4'x8' fiber cement panels. Two questions: first, we were told we had to prime any edges of the panels? Is that true and two, galvanized nails were used on our home but now they are rusting and showing through. Again, they are full panels and not overlapped. Any suggestions on how to alleviate this? I am doing the repairing so want to have nails that won't rust. The panels are primed and painted (actually twice) and the nails still rust. Thanks!
When putting on the window trim (at 2:45 on the video) you show the corner joint of trim boards as running horizontal. Should this not be vertical? Such that the joint would carry water down and off the trim. Being horizontal it might cause the water to run along the joint and wick under the window. Just a thought.
Shouldn’t the sides on your window trim run long and your bottom be cut the same as the width of the window? I’ve just never seen it done the way you’ve done it. Seems like a good place for water to find it’s way in eventually.
Ho do you cut around the windows? Our contractor has left anywhere from 1/8th inch to 1-1/2 inch gaps around windows. Is there any type of trim we can install to hide gaps. Contractor said he is going to caulk but this is going to look sloppy . It’s not a neat finished look as each board is a slightly different length. In siding that is not the case. That is under trim boards and gaps are hidden. Any suggestions would be appreciated .
I'm putting up harde 1/4" siding that looks like shingles. Do you recommend putting a lower flashing on the bottom? What about a piece of flashing between the pieces?
@7:59: I don't think the manufacturer calls for a gap. I think they call for them to be loosely butted together, but not friction-fit. Also, you should prime end cuts and try to use factory ends for butt joints when possible.
Can you use screws in place of nails? I know they would have to be outdoor rated. And also has anybody ever added this to a block home? I know you would have to add vertical slats evenly spaced out to anchor the siding to the wall. Asking for a friend. Lol , any info would be appreciated.
Just found your video. Thanks it is great! Love the level of detail. Questions for you. Would you/can you install right over existing T1-11 (what I have)? Any issues with boards splitting with the nails?
Great but i believe the boards should be painted first and also on the sides and slightly on the back but i am no professional. Thinking about moisture control and controlling rot!
I need to replace the bottom boards around our shed that was built with cement fiber board. I don't have an air nailer so what would you recommend for me to use...hand nail or screw them in?
I’ve never seen fiber siding with metal flashing on the bottom. However, I am currently re roofing a house that was done 87% incorrectly…. Also, you can cut a 1” slice of a board to use as your “starter” strip versus using the WHOLE plank. 30lbs black felt piece looks better than shiny card flashing at butt joints.
@@TodaysTask hey thanks for the quick reply, i attempted my first hardy job last week and that last row had me stumped as too how i was gonna make it look good, hiding in the soffit wasn’t a option for me.
I've been doing hardy for 30 yes you only have to leave a gap in your butt joints if you caulk which caulk fails and you don't have to do a backer strip or bottom flashing which hardi will absorb water especially when it freezes and thaws so that metal drip is a ice dam
New house they let a inexperienced workers to install, used screws blasted in everywhere and sunk them in like sheetrock. Large gaps around window coming up to the sides of the window. Might be 7/8 at top and 1/4 at bottom. And do you caulk the gaps you have? At top of home it's vertical, then it goes horizontal, and under that they have a 1×2 long strip With screws blasted into that, and it's already warping, I can put my hand under those spots.
7:54 I am fairly certain that corner nail is going to break the siding over time, losing any holding strength. Nichiha installation I believe calls for the corner nail to be 1" from the top and 1" from the end. At 9:30 you see in your mockup how the corners break off. In general, I think you may be nailing a bit high. Nichiha I believe want's all nails 1" down from the top. Nailing a bit lower helps hold the bottom the siding tight..
This video is absolutely amazing and well explained. One of the best videos on UA-cam providing instructions on how to install siding. No ego. No fluff. All facts. I love that you provided a list of tools and equipment needed to get the job done - explained what it's like as a one or two man job. This instructional video is superb! Five Stars. Bravo! Well done. Thank you for taking the time.
Those gauges have made me a lot of money. They’re more valuable to me than anything in my trailer. Saves time and strain in my joints
I don't see a drainage plain behind the sliding. We strip our houses with 1 x 3's first over the studs. The bottom always starts with Cor-A-Vent wrapped with mesh. That guarantees a 3/4 inch air space behind the siding.
Very amazing presentation, very clear explanations, camera doesn't move constantly, no background noise, pointing at every single spot just like it's a well designed documentary! I'd say this has been the best video that I've ever seen! The only thing is that I wish you could also demonstrate how you do the top part (the triangle as in gable area) and how you could manage cutting the cement board edges right with the perfect angle.
Thank you so much for your time and for your amazing demonstration 👍👏😍🙏
The bloopers at the end are classic. I really enjoy your content you have a lot of knowledge. Hope you and your family are well. Who ever ends up buying that home is very lucky.
Y'all, this is the our generations "This old house".
Joel - Norm would be so so proud.
7 P
Yes finally! Someone who knows about and uses gecko gauges. Makes the project a one person job. Those things are amazing and so well worth buying
I agree, he's pretty spectacular isn't he.
Guessing you haven't come accross the Perkins Brothers channel. They use the Geckos all the time.
This channel,his expertise is so deserving to surpass into the millions..he is to the point 👍
Tip for cutting: Score both sides with a utility knife along a speed square and snap it like drywall. No dust, no tools.
Thank you. That was the best "how to" video on cement board siding installation I've come across.
Great job explaining things as you go along! I picked up a tip on cutting out the notch on the cutting table. It sucks not having the extra hands at times when dealing with the long boards but you are soldiering your way through it. The ending was funny!
I love watching how fast this remodel is coming along. It sure has come a long way than when we first saw it in the vlog. Well done Joel! Excited to see where this project takes you.
Gecko gauges are a awesome toll and helper. I use Duo Fast siding nailer( awesome tool) . I use a compact grinder (4 1/2 inches diameter diamond blade) to cut the cement board, Tyvek wrapping “plastic” and the rest is pretty much the same setup! Great video !
I like your videos. Very knowledgeable and well spoken. So glad you branched off.
I’ve built, as a DIY, quite a few cement board buildings. Nice explanation. Of course everyone does things a little differently. So take my comments with a grain or a pound of salt. I won’t mention the things others have pointed out. Good on the shim board at the bottom. But use a narrow strip of the cement board instead of the wood. Don’t use the galvanized nails you are using. Those are electrogalvanized. They WILL rust. Cement board is very corrosive. More dollars but use SS nails. No discoloration and more durable. Good that you put the flashing behind the joint. Good that you space the panels with a gap. Same at the trim. Much easier to caulk a 1/8” gap than a 1/16” also. As to cutting the boards. I normally use Hardie, or Hardie knock off. They are a bit longer, 12’, which makes it nicer. Hardie is 5/16”. (And pre-primed) Looks like your stuff is thicker. I use a sliding chop saw with a cement board blade. A bit faster. Always wear a mask and cut with the wind blowing the dust away from you. I also use a Kett Hardie shear. Doesn’t make as nice a cut, but less dust. Nice for cutting odd shapes. I don’t use the Gecko gages, though they are fine. I like the gauge that hangs from the top of the plank. Very ingenious. And you really can’t have slippage on the gauge, and ONE person can do it all. There are advantages to each, but once I’ve nailed down the siding, I really don’t like prying it up even a little as the Gecko requires. Hardie/knockoff trim is a bit thicker than your trim, so the siding sits below the trim, even on the bottom of a board, so easier to caulk also. Another comment is you don’t show how you nail up the trim, but looks like you use brads, which is the way to go. But I really suggest using SS brads! They hold great and again, no rust! And you don’t get to the top of the trim for the windows. I’d really suggest using Z flashing for the top of the window. Final comment is the flashing tape around the windows prior to putting on the planks, doesn’t look to be secured well. The weakest point for rot is around doors and windows. Use the best tape and make sure it is adhered well. Lots of points, but we agree, cement board is a great product. Paint sticks to it very well. Good video.
If the wall behind the siding is properly waterproofed why do you need to flash the gaps between the boards, especially since the bottom of the flashing doesn't overlap on top of the board below, carrying water that gets into the gap away from the underlying waterproofing layer?
sir...you are amazing and talented. you are a rare breed. good job and excellent content
Nice job. Clear as a bell. From New York City, Thanks. I worked in many trades over 40: years.
I use to say I didn't like the bloopers but now I do lol also very educational and very important. Glad I am learning all of this.
Love watching you work on the house it's going to be beautiful inside and out . If I lived in Utah I'd buy it 👍 hope your back feels better .
Hugs Maria
What material do you use for the starter shim at the bottom? Looked like wood. I'm installing some Hardie Plank and they suggest ripping a piece of fiber cement board as the starter piece.
Couple observations.
Flashing goes under paper.
Flash over windows.
J channels at trim to minimize caulking.
Fine job.
Great explanation video! Just happen to come across it as we are repairing our modern home that has 4'x8' fiber cement panels. Two questions: first, we were told we had to prime any edges of the panels? Is that true and two, galvanized nails were used on our home but now they are rusting and showing through. Again, they are full panels and not overlapped. Any suggestions on how to alleviate this? I am doing the repairing so want to have nails that won't rust. The panels are primed and painted (actually twice) and the nails still rust. Thanks!
That is gonna look great when you’re done! Great info!
How do you hide the nails on the top board?
Love the shirt! I watch those guys all the time.
Why are the trim board seams at the bottom of the window trim horizontal?Shouldn't they be vertical?
Awesome video brother. Like the shirt by the way. A big fan of those guys as well. Lol.
When putting on the window trim (at 2:45 on the video) you show the corner joint of trim boards as running horizontal. Should this not be vertical? Such that the joint would carry water down and off the trim. Being horizontal it might cause the water to run along the joint and wick under the window. Just a thought.
Yes
Great video buddy. Getting ready to do the same project and you provided some really useful tips.
Love the outtakes! Thnx for being real.
Thank you man you are a professional in all the way. You teach me a lot again thank you
Shouldn’t the sides on your window trim run long and your bottom be cut the same as the width of the window? I’ve just never seen it done the way you’ve done it. Seems like a good place for water to find it’s way in eventually.
You are right
I was thinking the exact same thing
Run the trim around the windows,the same way as the window flashing...
I love watching your videos Joel, keep up the good work!!!!
I see you left gaps.The house I am buying they caulked or siliconed between the end cuts. Needed? Thanks
Ho do you cut around the windows? Our contractor has left anywhere from 1/8th inch to 1-1/2 inch gaps around windows. Is there any type of trim we can install to hide gaps. Contractor said he is going to caulk but this is going to look sloppy . It’s not a neat finished look as each board is a slightly different length. In siding that is not the case. That is under trim boards and gaps are hidden. Any suggestions would be appreciated .
Very good explanation this guy deserves una caguama
Great explainations! Great video! Comprehensive.
Nice video but shouldn’t you have air gaps on your starter strip ?
Hey man have you checked on the window trim at all?? Because with time water will begin to get in that joint you left
Love these videos Joel! I am learning so much!
Question, is a full strip going on the top or do you have to rip one
Excellent advice & info and some super cool tips & tricks, many thanks, subscribed!!! 💥👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Good job. Spot on work. Question? Why would board be wavy? Contractor installed 12’ and board is 3/4 bowing at spots.
Good question, it could be that the studs are wavy to begin with, or it could be that there are not enough nails put into the siding.
I'm putting up harde 1/4" siding that looks like shingles. Do you recommend putting a lower flashing on the bottom? What about a piece of flashing between the pieces?
I would flash the first row on the bottom and then all the joints. I love the shingle siding look.
@7:59: I don't think the manufacturer calls for a gap. I think they call for them to be loosely butted together, but not friction-fit. Also, you should prime end cuts and try to use factory ends for butt joints when possible.
Not an expert but I believe you only have to prime end cuts if you're using wood.
You are supposed to prime the the end cuts according to James Hardie installation instructions.
I would use silicone paintable caulking at all the siding joints and at the ends as well…
Joel!!!! I love your bloopers!!!
could you produce a video on how to stain, paint cement fiber board?
Can you use screws in place of nails? I know they would have to be outdoor rated. And also has anybody ever added this to a block home? I know you would have to add vertical slats evenly spaced out to anchor the siding to the wall. Asking for a friend. Lol , any info would be appreciated.
Yes, but you would have to pre drill any holes. Be sure to not over tighten.
Just found your video. Thanks it is great! Love the level of detail. Questions for you. Would you/can you install right over existing T1-11 (what I have)? Any issues with boards splitting with the nails?
I would think it would be ok.
I would test on a less visible window first and double check for splitting.
Great video! I loved your out takes.
how do you install the last board without showing the nails?
Good question, I usually will use a galvanized finish nail.
Where’d you nail the ends of the boards between the windows to? There weren’t studs between them were there?
There is a wood backing that I wanted it to stick to as well.
not sure with your cement board but with hardie plank you leave no gaps. There is no expansion or shrinkage with hardie cement board.
Your out takes are the best lol!!
Why don’t you caulk in between the seams and on the edges? Do you go back afterwards when all your boards are up?
Yes, my paint team caulked everything after. Good catch.
Have you ever used spray foam behind your siding for extra insulation?
Can you score and snap?
Great stuff but I wonder when Azek , Fiberon or some other company will start making a plastic siding product like their trim boards
what size air compressor do you use, for the nail gun?
It was a 6 gallon.
I need to know what nails to use. Thanks
Galvanized ring shank.... they will never come out.
Stainless steel. Electro galvanized will eventually rust. They always do.
Great but i believe the boards should be painted first and also on the sides and slightly on the back but i am no professional. Thinking about moisture control and controlling rot!
That is a good idea always, the boards are already primed and they are cement not wood so it won't be as critical.
The second board and a small piece on the third board look a different color?
They are different colors because they are just primed. the finish coat will be an even color.
Ok
The two tone colors look great ….
why 2 3/4 inch nails when the board is 1/2 inch thick??
The nails need to go through 1/2 cement board, 1/2 sheeting, and need to be at least 1inch into a stud.
This is a delight to watch.
I need to replace the bottom boards around our shed that was built with cement fiber board. I don't have an air nailer so what would you recommend for me to use...hand nail or screw them in?
I would hand mail them in.
It would be awesome if someone could do a video on how to repair this siding when alrdy up
Great video! What kind of flushing you are using for that job?
It is an aluminum flashing. I just cut thin strips and place it between the siding boards.
Love the Perkin's Builder Brothers shirt!!
What kind of nail gun do you use ?
Joel the house is going toook great
Great work! I hope your back doesn't give you any more trouble.
"I bet you wanna go biking, biking on a weekday"
IM DYING LAUGHING FROM THAT
Where can I get the gecko gauges
Amazon
What nail finish nail do u use for they straps?
Great video. Did you have to use special siding nails for the cement board?
Did you use a Stud Finder to locate your studs?
Absolutely. The house wrap covers all my sheeting nails.
@@TodaysTask What stud finder did you use? Was it able to find the studs through 1/2" OSB?
2¼ seems too long, the product is only ¼ to ½ max. I'd be worried about hitting lines inside the wall?
Bro are those two different colors at the bottom
thanks for the video. I'm learning... 2 thumbs up!!
do you paint this when done
Yes, it is only a primer on the boards now.
A 10ft board is not 112 inches though..... it is actually 120! 😆🤣 Thank you for the video, and the laughs as well!!
Ask
@@bobwickline7947 ok. Ask what?
Can you explain why you leave the little vertical gap in between boards?
almost all building materials will expand and contract with temperature so you have to account for that.
I’ve never seen fiber siding with metal flashing on the bottom. However, I am currently re roofing a house that was done 87% incorrectly….
Also, you can cut a 1” slice of a board to use as your “starter” strip versus using the WHOLE plank.
30lbs black felt piece looks better than shiny card flashing at butt joints.
Nice mountains what state is that
UTAH
Love the shirt.....great video 👍👍👍👍
First excellent job and one amazing video.
One question why did you not prime the cut ends ?
Cost of this DIY project?
Great video 👍
how do you finish the last strip, do you nail and fill exposed nail heads or cover them with a trim?
You can, I nailed above the soffit line in the roof system,
@@TodaysTask hey thanks for the quick reply, i attempted my first hardy job last week and that last row had me stumped as too how i was gonna make it look good, hiding in the soffit wasn’t a option for me.
I have seen some people nail it normal, and then put a small trim piece over with finish nails.
I've been doing hardy for 30 yes you only have to leave a gap in your butt joints if you caulk which caulk fails and you don't have to do a backer strip or bottom flashing which hardi will absorb water especially when it freezes and thaws so that metal drip is a ice dam
Are you allowed to caulk the joints so their not so visible or do you just have to deal with it?
You can absolutely caulk the joints.
New house they let a inexperienced workers to install, used screws blasted in everywhere and sunk them in like sheetrock. Large gaps around window coming up to the sides of the window. Might be 7/8 at top and 1/4 at bottom. And do you caulk the gaps you have? At top of home it's vertical, then it goes horizontal, and under that they have a 1×2 long strip
With screws blasted into that, and it's already warping, I can put my hand under those spots.
@7:01: 10' = 112"? I don't think so... but you might have a different tape measure than I do.
7:54 I am fairly certain that corner nail is going to break the siding over time, losing any holding strength. Nichiha installation I believe calls for the corner nail to be 1" from the top and 1" from the end. At 9:30 you see in your mockup how the corners break off.
In general, I think you may be nailing a bit high. Nichiha I believe want's all nails 1" down from the top. Nailing a bit lower helps hold the bottom the siding tight..
new sub here!! this is great your vid came up in the feed today even tho it is Wednesday August 25, 2021
Do you go back and paint the siding? The bottom row of siding looks like a different color. Or is that just the camera?
Yes that color you see is just a primer.
Don't gap butt joints on siding just corners and trim on hardi board
Thanks for sharing ,best video on install