Collar is there to stop you from over tightening the castle nut and collapsing the bearings on the inner race. The little bit of space allows for a little bearing preload and when the castle nut is to spec the collar is touching both bearings.
Hey Jason. Thanks for the comment. I am super happy that i am helping people in NZ. I really hope to make it there at some point in life. They do go anywhere. They are awesome and you can fix them without “millions” of dollars worth of specialty tools.
Hey Schneids, just wanted to say thanks so much for all the vids on these king quads. They are super helpful and have saved me alot time. I really appreciate the effort and all the information. Need to ask.. Do you have any sources for all the internal gears and bearings? I'm lookn at a complete tear down/rebuild, and hoping to source as many parts as possible. Are there certain dealers here in the states you go to ?
Man i did this about 2 months ago and was a right sod to get the new bearings back in. In the end i had to run fine sandpaper around the metal surface where the bearing sits so that i could press it in. Wheel now runs true :-)
Ha literally was doing the right side last night. Thought it would take the same bearing as the front, but the front is a little smaller. I removed the entire A-arm and was able to tap out the bearings with a socket similar to what you did. Luckily O'Reilly's carries the bearings so I didn't have to wait for the mail.
@@Schneids15 I should have made a video - it’s easier than the rear because the bearings are in the knuckle which separates from the a-arm. I’m sure I’ll need to take it apart again to replace the brake cylinders and lower ball joint. I’ll film it then.
@@Schneids15 alright here’s an overview of the king quad I picked up a few weeks ago. After finishing the rear wheel bearings there is still a small amount of play in the wheel. Perhaps the spline shaft/hub is a little work, the the bearing races looked good and the bearings went in tight. ua-cam.com/video/5RqqGMKAdtw/v-deo.html
No problem. I get very busy during the summer so i figured that now is the time to make them so they will really help people in the spring when they can use it.
Just curious, do you edit out the blue streaks? Because I know there is an awful lot of colorful language coming out of my garage with projects like these, and sometimes a bolt just won't come loose until you bring out the heavy artillery and accuse its mother of infidelity and bring into question the species to which she belongs.
Love your videos. I have a 99 KQ300. Grinding noise from the front when in 4wd. I just removed the brakes and knuckles (1 side had a bad wheel bearing). Now that I can see the front diff better I can tell that the input shaft and both cv half-shafts, where they attach to the diff, have up/down play. I'm thinking that all the bearings in the front diff are shot and the grinding is the pinion and ring gears. Does this sound plausible? If so, would you try to rebuild the diff or get a used one from ebay? Mike
Hey Mike, so yes i would drain your oil in the diff and see about metal shavings or grey oil, if grey you can guarantee she is pooched. If price point was not bad i would buy a used one because less labour. However if parts were available and easy to get i can’t see it would be a hard rebuild.
Nevermind! I took it all apart today. Yup, all the bearings were shot. I just got the bike thinking I would probably have to rebuild the front diff. When I went to drain it there wasn't a drop of oil in the front diff. Found a used front diff on Ebay for $99.
Hi great videos, I have a King Quad 300 year 2001 and the housing to hold the universal joint is busted. How do I remove the will busted joint pull straight out of the main body? any ideas where I can get a replacement?
U gotta get the Ozark model in here please. I bought 1 and I'm absolutely obsessed with it. It is kinda like this. It uses almost the same stuff. It's more like the ltz. Help us out I see your the best at this. Come on we need you. Look out for an Ozark please n help us out
Hey dude love the videos! Im currently swapping engines in my king quad and I'm trying to remove the propshaft from the u joint it's stuck in there the boot around the U joint is toast do you recommend using heat and penetration fluid?
Im getting ready to replace my bearings and seals. I used ebay to but the parts.. though the seals they sent me are all the same. They all have a spring in them but no raised lip. Is the raised lip for the inner really necessary? Also.. where tf do i buy a rear cv shaft for a 1993 king quad 300?
@@Schneids15 i was able to call cycle marine supercenter. A place in town that deals with suzuki. They looked it up, $360 per side. More then $700 for both sides on the back 😑 fn suzuki made the ujoints in the shaft perminant. They are crimped in there. I saw online someone use a mill to clear the crimp and pop them out but you wouldn't be able to get a factory ujoint. You'd have to use a caliper i suppose to measure and just try to find one that fits it.
@@jackofalldave yeah after futher reseach both back sides have two axle parts that splice together, but you have to buy they separately. The $370 i thought was for 2 out of the 4 pieces. Was in fact only 1 out of the 3 pieces i needed 😒 i havent cranked it in months 😒 probably have to clean the carb out again its been so long 😭
Hey, thanks for your videos I just bought a king quad and did a whole bunch of work on it today and your videos were all very helpful, I need a few parts and I'm having troubles finding the parts I need, where do you order your parts from?
Collar is there to stop you from over tightening the castle nut and collapsing the bearings on the inner race. The little bit of space allows for a little bearing preload and when the castle nut is to spec the collar is touching both bearings.
thanks again from NZ, did my front diff oil yesterday! love these lil quads, super light and go anywhere
Hey Jason. Thanks for the comment. I am super happy that i am helping people in NZ. I really hope to make it there at some point in life. They do go anywhere. They are awesome and you can fix them without “millions” of dollars worth of specialty tools.
Hey Schneids, just wanted to say thanks so much for all the vids on these king quads. They are super helpful and have saved me alot time. I really appreciate the effort and all the information. Need to ask.. Do you have any sources for all the internal gears and bearings? I'm lookn at a complete tear down/rebuild, and hoping to source as many parts as possible. Are there certain dealers here in the states you go to ?
Do you have any videos showing how to adjust rear brakes. Love the videos just bought one to fix up
Man i did this about 2 months ago and was a right sod to get the new bearings back in. In the end i had to run fine sandpaper around the metal surface where the bearing sits so that i could press it in. Wheel now runs true :-)
Ha literally was doing the right side last night. Thought it would take the same bearing as the front, but the front is a little smaller. I removed the entire A-arm and was able to tap out the bearings with a socket similar to what you did. Luckily O'Reilly's carries the bearings so I didn't have to wait for the mail.
That is good to know. I have never had to do a front yet surprisingly.
@@Schneids15 I should have made a video - it’s easier than the rear because the bearings are in the knuckle which separates from the a-arm. I’m sure I’ll need to take it apart again to replace the brake cylinders and lower ball joint. I’ll film it then.
Right on. Sounds good. I have done them on a can am and stuff just never on a king quad. I maybe had when i first got it but that has been a while.
@@Schneids15 alright here’s an overview of the king quad I picked up a few weeks ago. After finishing the rear wheel bearings there is still a small amount of play in the wheel. Perhaps the spline shaft/hub is a little work, the the bearing races looked good and the bearings went in tight. ua-cam.com/video/5RqqGMKAdtw/v-deo.html
Thanks again for another great video. Now I have lots to do this winter getting the atv up and running.
Yes you do Phil. If i think of any other issues about why your trans could be stuck i will let you know👍🏻
Another great video! Highly enjoy these. Thanks for making them! 😎
No problem. I get very busy during the summer so i figured that now is the time to make them so they will really help people in the spring when they can use it.
Just curious, do you edit out the blue streaks? Because I know there is an awful lot of colorful language coming out of my garage with projects like these, and sometimes a bolt just won't come loose until you bring out the heavy artillery and accuse its mother of infidelity and bring into question the species to which she belongs.
Excellent video got one these bikes love watching your videos here in new zealand
Love your videos. I have a 99 KQ300. Grinding noise from the front when in 4wd. I just removed the brakes and knuckles (1 side had a bad wheel bearing). Now that I can see the front diff better I can tell that the input shaft and both cv half-shafts, where they attach to the diff, have up/down play. I'm thinking that all the bearings in the front diff are shot and the grinding is the pinion and ring gears. Does this sound plausible? If so, would you try to rebuild the diff or get a used one from ebay? Mike
Hey Mike, so yes i would drain your oil in the diff and see about metal shavings or grey oil, if grey you can guarantee she is pooched. If price point was not bad i would buy a used one because less labour. However if parts were available and easy to get i can’t see it would be a hard rebuild.
Nevermind! I took it all apart today. Yup, all the bearings were shot. I just got the bike thinking I would probably have to rebuild the front diff. When I went to drain it there wasn't a drop of oil in the front diff. Found a used front diff on Ebay for $99.
Hi great videos, I have a King Quad 300 year 2001 and the housing to hold the universal joint is busted. How do I remove the will busted joint pull straight out of the main body? any ideas where I can get a replacement?
Hey Dominic. Sorry i had never got into that situation and can’t help you with that, sorry.
U gotta get the Ozark model in here please. I bought 1 and I'm absolutely obsessed with it. It is kinda like this. It uses almost the same stuff. It's more like the ltz. Help us out I see your the best at this. Come on we need you. Look out for an Ozark please n help us out
I need a video on that rear inner cv shaft u joint
On my other quad I freeze bearings and heat the hub and they drop right in. Would this work for this style of hub setup?
SCHNEIDS!!!! please do a front wheel bearing vid! Please!
So the seal with the spring on it the spring faces out?
Hey dude love the videos! Im currently swapping engines in my king quad and I'm trying to remove the propshaft from the u joint it's stuck in there the boot around the U joint is toast do you recommend using heat and penetration fluid?
Thank you! You got er. Hit er with heat is about the only thing left to do.
@@Schneids15 bro I got it off. Never in my life have I swore at an innanimate object this much. 30 mins of heat and 2 hours of hammering later it came
Do your rear axle have any up or down play? Mine feels kinda loose where the splines meet the joint on the differential side
Im getting ready to replace my bearings and seals. I used ebay to but the parts.. though the seals they sent me are all the same. They all have a spring in them but no raised lip. Is the raised lip for the inner really necessary? Also.. where tf do i buy a rear cv shaft for a 1993 king quad 300?
I imagine you will be just fine with a different seal. Cv shaft is a good question. I get that a lot. Not sure
@@Schneids15 i was able to call cycle marine supercenter. A place in town that deals with suzuki. They looked it up, $360 per side. More then $700 for both sides on the back 😑 fn suzuki made the ujoints in the shaft perminant. They are crimped in there. I saw online someone use a mill to clear the crimp and pop them out but you wouldn't be able to get a factory ujoint. You'd have to use a caliper i suppose to measure and just try to find one that fits it.
Power sports nation Carries some Suzuki parts used. New axles are like $575!😮
The raised lip is not necessary as long as the inside is tight on the shaft. The seals are meant to keep water and dirt out.
@@jackofalldave yeah after futher reseach both back sides have two axle parts that splice together, but you have to buy they separately. The $370 i thought was for 2 out of the 4 pieces. Was in fact only 1 out of the 3 pieces i needed 😒 i havent cranked it in months 😒 probably have to clean the carb out again its been so long 😭
it is normal i can put my bearing in just like pushing him with my finger on or the tolerance it over ?
Mine went in very easy. I assume they were worn and they should be a tolerance fit.
Hey, thanks for your videos
I just bought a king quad and did a whole bunch of work on it today and your videos were all very helpful, I need a few parts and I'm having troubles finding the parts I need, where do you order your parts from?
Are the front bearings the same size as the rear
How do I remove the rear inner u joints on cv shaft it don't push in and Pull out like the front cause it's in the motor
The collar is to push to the side and put. A punch in there to push bearings out
how would I get a boot for the same four wheeler I can't find any
Check out royal distributing.
should have wire brushed the rust off that hub, probly would have slid in like butter.
You are 100% right
I got the same exact one u got