@@CurmudgeonTransmission not all hero’s wear capes you know… thank you very much for the time taken to do this , may save me £1000s… I changed my oil a few months back , added some Lucas atf fluid too as it’s supposed to help with smoothness….. first drive of the day, when it got to 3rd it would jump out of gear for a second and revs jump, now it has stopped, but I feel like I have 2 3rd gears ….. I will be going up a hill, hit third and it will go from 4K revs to 3k revs, and I can hear the change of revs drop , it doesn’t seem to slip, once it drops it stays there , otherwise it’s a great gearbox….it’s like it’s not engaging fully straight away, do you think this is the valve body rather than the clutch? Would it be worth taken the body off and giving it a clean before splashing out?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I’ve just filled my last fresh litre of oil in( I know it’s nowhere near enough) oil was a bad colour so I’m hoping it will be better when I get a full flush, I was wrong in saying it’s jumping from 4rpm to 3rpm, It’s from 2000 rpm it will drop to 1800rpm in 3rd gear only ever so slightly, I thought the fluid would be in better condition considering I put 5l through a few months ago but obviously it needs doing a few times Otherwise the box is very smooth and changes perfectly !
At some point you will be putting a valve body on it. Main problem with these units. If you are starting to experience strange problems, do it now. You can probably change it and get a lot more mileage out of it. Don't forget to reset the adaptives and do a relearn on it afterwards.
Currently using the blue Transjel and green Dr. Tranny. Blue for lip seals, green for holding things in place, i.e.. bearings and washers, etc.. Gold I used for the lip seals in this video is no longer available.
Very good instructional video. I have a problem with this automatic gearbox: Tg-81 sc, 2015 Volvo xc60. Please advise what repair kit and where to buy it? Regards
Awesome. I have one of these in a '07 Volvo V70R. Looks to be a little bit of a PITA in some parts of the assembly, but not the end of the world. I keep the fluid as fresh as I can, but still worry about the torque limitations of this transaxle with the power the car makes. Hopefully I won't have to go into it anytime soon. Thanks for this detailed assembly video.👍
My 2006 Volvo s60 needs a new box. Is there any reason a newer box, I.e 2011 S60 TF80 SC wouldn’t work(as far as I know only the fluid is different, but that can be flushed out). All scrappers seem to list 2011-2016 as compatibility
hi, thanks for the really high quality and detailed video. I have a 2007 Volvo D5 with this particular automatic transmission. the transmission shifts gears otherwise really well, but in a kickdown acceleration the 6-> 4 shift is pretty sharp. Tried to change the Valvebody, but the problem still occurs. Can you guess what is causing this problem?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission this car and transmission have 220kkm/137,5kmiles. Fluid is flushed @100kkm, 175kkm and 215kkm. Valvebody were brandnew oem and was replaced @215kkm and all adaptions was deleted and relearn process was done at the same time. After relearn transmission worked like 200-300km without the sharp swift, mut it came slowly back.
You might check and see if there is new software upgrade where you are. We do not have that specific model here, but there are TSB's for other models with that complaint. If it is not a software problem you may have clearance problems inside the transmission that the computer is trying to compensate for.
It goes by several names depending on it's application. There is no 82 it's an 81, regardless, they are almost identical. Differences mostly in clutch capacity and some of the internal parts. Thanks for watching.
Don't remember. But I am pretty sure it was shifting problems. Flairing upshifts and bumpy downshifts. Worse hot is usually how it stats out. From a worn out valve body and/or solenoids.
Valve Body. How much gets damaged beyond that depends on how much it was driven after the symptoms started. If caught early usually you can just replace the valve body.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission do you know from where à buzzing noise can comme from this type ou transmission ? On my tf72sc (MINI) f55 I have a buzzing nose on all gear shift except reverse and I don't know where to check.
really good video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. One question, you mentioned the back bush of C2 could spin, I also read this somewhere else and they sold a special bush with some kind of pin insert to avoid the problem in the future. I can't find this place anymore, do you know where I could buy this bush ? another question, do you replace the bonded pistons everytime ? or can you avoid them ? Cheers !
Thanks. Not sure about the pinned one. Omega Machine and tool sells a bushing kit for it. As far as the pistons it is a judgement call. Most of the ones I see have so many miles on them and have been so hot that so far, I replace them. sales.omegamachine.com/TF_80SC_Bushing_Kit_p/135500.htm
Hi Tom! The filter in valve body made from plastic or metal wire? Necessary to change that or enough clean, when change the oil? Thanks education, U are GRATE!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hi Tom! When i change the seal ring on this bearbox between body and cooler lines, necessary to punch a hole on sealing, or made this the pipe? How its work, pls help me! Thousands thanks!
I think it is worse than being behind the valve body. If I remember correctly it is the one bolted to the support. So you have to disassemble the unit to change it. Very easy to pinch the wires also. So pay close attention to how it is routed and make sure ALL the hold downs are back in there and where they were. Been a long time since I have seen one. And as I am sure you have found, information on this unit is harder to find than hens teeth.
No, it is Transgel Gold. I use the gold to lube stuff and green to hold stuff in place , like bearings and washers. They make 4 different thickness. Dr. Tranny makes the same thing.
Thanks for the video. I am working on one right now. Do you have any manuals for this transmission for overhaul? I cant seem to find anything from Alldata or Mitchell, or ATSG.
I have a TF80 with the badge A20DTH... to be changed, it shifts well in gears 1-2-3... but from the 4th gear it slips as if it had no clutch, it idles and after a while it gives me on board transmission service, and the gearbox remains stuck in 4th gear and if I stop the wheels it stays in 2nd gear... what should I change in the gearbox?
Dear Tom, love your channel! I have a 2012 XC60 T6 3.0L. TCM has a DTC P0741 - “Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit performance or stuck OFF”. There are no symptoms. Where shall I start trouble shooting? I was thinking to install Level 10 valve body initially. Thanks in advance for your response!
Thanks. If you have a scanner you can watch the TCC slip and see if it is too high. If it is and you have caught it early enough. There is a good chance a valve body will take care of it. If it goes on too long it will burn the clutch in the converter and it will need to be replaced also. It may be an electrical problem but that is rare. Usually worn out VB.
Thanks for your reply Tom! Happy to hear a new valve body can save the transmission. This was the very first time I’ve seen this code and no symptoms so far, hopefully it’s discovered early enough. I cleared the DTC 3 days back since then haven’t showed up. That means there was no big difference in RPM between the torque converter and main shaft / no slip. Anyway I’ll order a new VB.
Hello, Thank You for an amazing video. Currently I have my transmission split apart, case sandblasted with glass balls, cover painted and ready for assembly, I would like to ask if you use some specific torque setings? I found some general values based on bolt size, but I could not find any specific procedure for rebuild regarding torque settings. Once more, Thank You ;)
Tried finding that info out and have not had any luck, not surprising, some are very hard to find info on. Sounds like you got a pretty good grasp on it. If you know how it is calculated you can apply that to most any of them. As far as clutch clearances go. I have never had one come out incorrect using a good kit with good clutches. I like transtec kits and Raybestos Clutches. Usually a good rule of thumb is .008-.010 per clutch disc. End play for most anything will be between .005-.030, some are a little more. Never had one not come out correctly on that either. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank You for your reply and know-how. It is hard to rebuild the transmission for the first time and this video helped me a lot.... Currently, I am in half of the assembly process doing counter-drive gear assembly. Is there any process to bleed transmission after installation? I was just wondering if the system bleeds itself, or there are used pressure check bolts to bleed the system? Do you also clean the valve body and valve itself? I know there is the process when valves are stripped down completely and cleaned, but I was thinking just to clean it with spray at least. Thank You :)
No way to bleed the system, that is what the vent does. I don't remember if I showed the valve body portion in this video it's been so long. I don't go through these valve bodies. These are one of the units I recommend you put a new valve body on. It's really your best option on this unit.
Hi Tom thanks for such an awesome and informative video. I have the same transmission on my alfa romeo 159. I'm having a bang or a knock if I may describe it when I shift from park to reverse to drive and also from drive to reverse to park I noticed that the gearing is not smooth like it used to be during up and down shifts.I haven't attempted anything thus far can you please advise me further Thanking you in advance
Not being able to experience the problem it is going to be hard to say. Sounds like you might have some broken mounts. As far as the shifting issues go you may have a valve body that is getting worn out or it could be a mount issue also. That is where the problems start on this transmission. You could try to fix it if you wanted to invest in all the tools but in my opinion, it is better to just buy a new valve body from the dealer. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hi Tom thanks for your reply i forgot to mention this only happens when the transmission is hot and when I'm in traffic when you say mounts you referring to the engine and gearbox mountings.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for your answer, because my gearbox had a problem with the sound of friction after warming up in 4th and 5th gear, it was repaired but the sound is still heard and is under complaint, the mechanic says that the bearing is damaged deep in the gearbox housing and it causes this sound and it is hard to replace , and watching your video I wonder if it's the placenta.
Hey Tom i really enjoy watching your videos, I have a volvo s60 with this transmission with 120k miles. It has never had a fluid change due to it being "lifetime fluid". Would you recommend changing the fluid to avoid future problems like these?
Thanks. I personally wouldn't do it. There does come a point where it can create problems. If it had been done every year or two, I wouldn't have a problem with it.
Thanks very much for this informative video. I have a strange issue with an Alfa 159 fitted with this transmission. At cruising speeds around 50 kph, sometimes the whole car will shake/shudder with a low frequency. As if, there's an unbalance. When I stop or accelerate, it's gone. Mostly it happens after deceleration and acceleration at a roundabout. I have a suspicion it is related to the torque converter. Any idea what's causing this?
That going to be hard to say without experiencing it. I don't think it is going to be the TC. The speed is too low to be tires. I would take a really close look at the transmission and motor mounts.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks. Motor mounts are all new. Actually the whole transmission is already overhauled including a new valve body. I have now sent the TC out for revision, because it's one part I cannot check myselves. Let's see if a new lockup clutch liner and a overrunning clutch will help out.
I'm trying to determine if the left drivers CV axle has a removable sleeve or bushing to support it I'm getting radio play and from your video it just seems like it's part of the carrier
They do not have a removeable sleeve. If you are talking about the shaft sticking out of the case, that is part of the spider gear of the differential. I would not take that apart and try to use the seals that come in the rebuild kit. They usually do not fit properly. Too loose. If you do change them, use some sealer on them to keep them in there, or they will probably leak. That is supported by the differential bearings. If there is too much play the bearings and races will need to be replaced.
Hello, Mine is a Ssangyong Tivoli diesel with the same aisin gear box. About 100,000km done. I'm having shruddering issues violently mainly from 4 to 6th gears around 45-80km/h when the RPM is low 1300-1700rpm. And noticable shruddering most of the other times even above 2000rpm What could be the issue? Brandnew engine, gear box mounts have been replaced. Injectors, timing chain kits, belts, waterpumps all have been replaced. This issue started finally we did a transmission oil change.
Sometimes doing a fluid change can create issues. Sounds like it is time for a rebuild. Valve bodies are always worn out on these. This is where the problem starts. How long you drive with the issue determines how much other damage there will be.
@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you so much for your kind reply. One more question, rebuilding the whole transmission unit including valve box will resolve the issue? I have seen some people say that we have to replace the valve box without rebuilding it.
If ft80sc is dragged off on engine, converter is dragged out of the oil pump and connected to another enigne without proper alignment, what damage can we expect?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Got a hold of a gear box out of an awd car. What needs to be changed from the broken gearbox to mismatch those two gearboxes to make one functional? Angle gear?
Hi Tom, according to your knowledge and experience would you consider the main root cause for this transmission to have problems is the overheating issue? Thank you very much
Hi mate. I have a question. Can you introduce assembly side way of friction clutch disck and steel plate. Steel plate one side is sharp, other side is soft edge. Clutch disk similar same both side. I will be glad to you if i can learn it )). I am completed almost my tf80 due no gear 4-5-6. I ordered transpeed rebuild kit. First my inspection is all clutch wear out. No any visual damage - burnout and wear out other parts Looks like only wear out the clutch. I will first rebuild all oring - seal and clutch. If will not effect then i will focus to valve body. I am not yet start to dissambly it.
Sorry, I don't have that information. My guess would be down. Look real close at the drum with the shaft and make sure it does not have a crack. Same with the large piston that goes in it. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for your answer. I didnt yet check deeply the piston body and drums. Its good diagnostic for no gear 4-5-6. Because this problem did happen at once. Before i was not any complaint. This seems not aged wear problem. I will continue follow the your mastery.
Hi. Very useful video. I have a problem with this transmission in a Range Rover. No one can seem to advise. Had noise on slow down, found left drive shaft completely worn, replaced with new (difficult to remove) new one fitted. Now, when first start up goes into each gear nice. After minute or so goes into reverse fine but when engage drive there is a huge clonk and the whole engine and gearbox try to rotate forward, once in drive is fine. Only occurs when move shifter into drive. Any ideas the cause.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I thought bad axle too. Put the old one back in and is the same. It’s ok for about 3 minutes then clonks and gets progressively worse.
Hi Tom! Do you have a service manual for this gearbox,and are you willing to share it? I'm very interested, as I just opened my gearbox and just want to repair it.
@@wensz1 Looked on ATRA's website and they have 3 listings for AWF21 which is the other designation for this transmission. When you click on it nothing shows up but has an add to cart option, 40 for member 60 for non. Might give them a call 8664642872. They are on the west coast so PST, believe their hours are 8-5.
@@GuestInMyOwnCountry Without feeling it it would be hard to say. Engine misfires feel like transmission problems and show up more in higher gears at slow speeds of around 45-50mph. Could be a transmission problem though. Wrong fluid can cause problems as well. Need all the particulars you can give me.
Where are you located good Sir, I have a 2007 Volvo XC90 v8 with a TF80SC transmission that might need some work in the future. I live in Denver Colorado. I am hoping you are somewhere within driving distance 500-600 miles.
Which ever does not irritate your skin as much. All that matters is that the parts are clean. There are numerous things you can use to do that. Either of those is fine.
Hi, Is there any reason why some would outright refuse working on this gearbox or is it due to unfamiliarity? My shifting from 4th to 5th under high acceleration, the gearbox skips 5th and goes to 6th. Then it would autoshift back to 5th after a few seconds. Any idea why it would be happening? Thanks for the great channel.
I don't know to your first question. As far as your problem is concerned I would need more information. Have you had the system scanned for codes? Biggest problem with this unit is a worn out valve body.
Hi! I watched whole video two times, but i didn't spot assembly of transmission oil filter. This gearbox does have filter, right?? 😯 My 2009 Volvo V70 2.4d geartronic does have service record of transmission oil changes, but there is no mention about transmission filter change. 🤔
one quick question. how do you test the input speed sensor? I'm working on a Mazda CX-9 with a P0715 code and the ISS is showing Open Line, how many ohms should have? Thanks in advance. BTW greetings from Guatemala in Central America.
Tom, Thank you for this informative video. I have an SC-80 in my 2016 Volvo Polestar. I have three questions for you. 1. In your opinion is the fluid pump powerful enough to adequately circulate the fluid through both the OEM trans cooler (heat exchanger) and an additional Setreb external cooler mounted in the return line from the OEM cooler? This setup probably doubles the size of the fluid cooler loop. 2. I don't trust the temperature sensor in the transmission. It provides a signal to the ECU which I can monitor using an OBDII reader. As an example, I can start a cold car and the temperature sensor will read 40-50F higher than ambient temp, right at startup. Also, 95% of the time the trans temp will be exactly the same as the coolant temp, to the 1/10 degree. I think the trans temp is just a ghost signal for the coolant temp. For this reason I want to install a direct reading temp sensor in the fluid pan of the transmission. I can obtain a fitting that requires drilling a opening in the pan and inserting a thru fitting that holds the sensor. (I already have fitted direct reading coolant and engine oil temp gauges.) In you video it looks like the lower right side of the pan has a void behind it that would be sufficient for the fitting to protrude 3/8-1/2 inch into the fluid. Do you agree? 3. The last time I tracked my car I hit 265F trans fluid temp reading the OBDII signal. Is this temp dangerous for this transmission? Thank you so much for your time and expertise.
Thanks for watching. Pump will be just fine. Transmission temp is going to be right in line with engine temp. Transmission temperature sensor provides a signal to the ECU to tell if the transmission is overheating. I only get to see one of these units every couple of years so I don't remember if one will fit there. Do not get rid of the one that comes in it as you will cause the transmission to be in a failsafe mode, just add it separately. 265 is too hot it should be close to causing it to go to failsafe mode and throw a code, should be down around 215 or less, adding a cooler should help. Best way to run it would be in parallel and not in series, that way if one gets restricted the other will still give cooling capabilities.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Tom, thanks so much for you insights! One more question: On the transmission housing there is an upper and lower port for the external fluid circulation loop. Volvo puts a thermostat bypass valve in these two ports. Can you confirm that the lower of the two ports is the outbound or discharge port?
You can always just pull the lines off and start it for just a second with a bucket to catch the fluid and whichever port it is coming out of is the discharge.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission The Volvo OEM lines have these plastic locking clips on the hose terminations that; 1. make the fitting very hard to pop off. 2. Break frequently when you remove the line and the replacement lines are stupid priced, like over $100 each. Thanks for checking. I even called the source that Aisin recommended and he wasn't sure.
Hi Mr Tom,i am sorry to bother you I do have a problem with my Citroen C5 automatic gearbox AWTF80SC The Bearing on differential is getting broken,make very bad noise when I am driving the car I've been looking for code of bearing,but i can't find any code to match the Bearing so I can buy and replace, would be possible to tell me the code of the Bearing which is attached to the differential? Thank you so much for what you are doing
WIT #'s 255288A, 2552889A, 255291A and 255292A is all I could find for you. If you have it apart there are numbers on both the bearing and race. Sometimes you can call a place that sells bearings, and they can cross those numbers over.
Good morning, I have a 2011 Volvo S60 T6 model, I think the automatic transmission is this one, TF-80SC, but the manual says to use VOLVO BOT 341 double clutch oil, VOLVO 1161838, what oil should I use?
Some snap rings should be put in certain locations, if I say it should be in a position then it is important it be there, if it's not important I usually say so and say it is just where I put it. Sometimes it is critical it be where they say it should be.
...what exactly does make Final Drive Ratio on this gearbox? Also wonder if has interchangeable diffs? I have a 2.4 diesel with FWD, and there is a 3.2 petrol with AWD, could one take double diff from AWD and put it into FWD? Thanks in advance
You cannot just swap them out. Even if you could it would need reprogramming for the new ratio. Otherwise it would throw ratio codes and go to failsafe mode. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission well, here is the thing, as far as I know, gearbox ECU doesn't count Final Drive Ratio, at least on my car, since it sees gears (calculates and compares to constants memorized) via two sensors in gearbox alone, and both of them, if I understand Final Drive Ratio placement are before it. Final Drive Ratio is calculated, I presume, between inter and diff gear/cog... And there are like 3 different Final Drive Ratios for my car, and gearbox ECU doesn't see those at all... only thing that gearbox ECU looks at is engine rpm, since petrol and diesels have different max shift points. Thanks in advance
How much horsepower and torque can this transmission handle. I have a Volvo S80 with a Stage 2 tune and blew the transmission on it. Rumor has it, that this transmission can handle 500 horsepower and 500 ft/lb of torque. I was at 420 hp and about 480 ft/lb of torque. I dialed back the the custom tune and so far so good with a used 26,000 mile transmission.Your thoughts? Any way to beef up this transmission.
Also, if I need to do a valve body or get the transmission serviced, where are you located. My car is a 2015.5 Volvo S80 T6 3.0. Love the car and with the added power it’s a hoot to drive. Great video, thanks for your excellent transfer of knowledge.
In late 2010 they made a bunch of improvements to the transmission and computer. So, you have all the "updates" that are available. Anybody reading this don't think you can use 2011 parts in a previous model. You CANNOT. They are NOT compatible. As far as I know nothing else is available. You run things with boosted power you run the risk of breaking things. Thanks for watching.
hi dear i have dodge neon 2017 it have exactly the same transsmision gear TF72SC . Is it possiable to use the shift gear module from any other brand like opel or mazda or vovlo or any brand use the same transsmision gear or not possiable ?
Most all shifting issues in this unit are a valve body problem. The reason it is not doing it in sport mode is probably because that shift strategy raises the pressure and the shift points in the unit.
Hi Tom, I have a 2007 Ford Fusion. I had to replace the TCM and when I loosened the nut for the manual lever it turned fully counter clockwise. I can't get the selector to turn back clockwise to place the trans in neutral. Am I missing something? every other trans I've worked with you could move the shift detent vey easily. This one is not budging at all and I'm afraid to get to crazy and break it off. Any idea what is happening? Thank you very much! John
I think you must have gone past the detent. You are going to have to take the side pan off and take a look at it. Probably just need to loosen the detent, move the linkage back and then re-tighten it.
As long as you are willing to put a brand new valve body it will work fine. They are not cheap but that is where the problem is. You can spend the money getting the reamers and valves and you still run a 50-50 chance it will not work properly. I have not had very much luck with rebuilt valve bodies you can buy either, about the same as doing it yourself.
greetings from the uk i have this box in my xc90 and notice on the small drive shaft side the inner joint at the gearbox can be moved about quite a bit like play inside the box not the shaft its self. would it be something inside the auto box like a bearing failed? or normal on these first ive felt this on a car. thanks for the info if you know :)
If possible, you should make a new video of the tf80sc. You didnt film every move because of the camera angle. And if possible film a tear-down of the TM. Thanx and keep up with the interessting videos.
Thanks for watching. I plan to. Have moved the camera since this video and added mounts to film the tear downs now. Only get about one of these a year. Had one come in a couple of weeks ago but we did not get the job.
what if the oil filter in this transmission is dead? The whole transmission has to be replace for the new one ? I am asking because as I know the oil filter is unable to be replaced as is integrated
The transmission will need to be removed from the vehicle. And the bell housing and pump removed to get access to it. If the filter is bad, you probably have other issues that need to be fixed. With all that labor you will have already done I would rebuild the unit while it is out.
hi i am rebuilding my gearbox at the moment and i am just wondering dies it matter how the pistons go ?do they need to lign up with oil channels in any way?thank you
I believe on this unit only the low/ reverse and it only will fit one way. If there is anything that needs to go in a particular spot ( snap rings, pistons, etc. ) I will mention it usually. Thanks for watching.
Подскажите подалуйста.. буксует 2 и 3 передача. 3-5 секунд.заменен гидроблок, фрикционы,поршня рещиновые, тормоз лента, все уплотнения. Ничего не поменялось.гидротрансформатор ремонтировали.
The valve body is where your problem is. You are either going to have to hope you can find a good used one, buy all the reamers and valves from Sonnax or the best fix is a new valve body.
Hi i finished rebuilding my transmission but now it has harsh 4-5 and 3-4 downshifts apart from that the transmission works fine.will it take time for the new parts to brake in and then the transmission will settle or have done something wrong?it has a new valve body in it.does the b4 brake servo comes with 4 or 3 o rings thats the only thing i am not sure of doing right cause i only seen 3 o rings on it?thank you
Is it brand new or Reman? You need to reset the adaptives on the TCM. It will eventually relearn but you do run the risk of doing damage to the unit sometimes. It's better to reset and relearn the shifts after that as it will do it quickly. It will shift real sloppy after the reset so you need to drive it gently for the first several upshifts until it starts shifting correctly. Usually it will be ok within about 20-30 minutes of driving. If it is a reman valve body you may still have a valve body problem, have seen that a lot, that is why I recommend a new one. As far as the servo goes I don't remember how many o-rings it takes, have only done a few of these units so it does not stick in my mind. But they are not the cause of your harsh downshifts, you would have upshift problems as well. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission it is a brand new unit i have done the TCM relearn for about 4 hrs but it is still the same so i am pulling my hair out.it has new transtec pistons new alto frictions new transtec overhaul kit and new oe valve body.thank you.
@@andrislejasmeijers7541 I don't use Alto clutches, they have always given me shifting problems. Only ones I will use are their racing clutches. What type of fluid did you use? You might try a bottle or two of black Lubegard and see if it modifies the frictions enough to smooth out the shift.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission i used Liqui Moly top tec 1800 atf.might give that lubegard a go if it wont get better in few weeks.would adjusting the spring tension for solenoids in the valve body help?
@@andrislejasmeijers7541 I would not mess with those especially if it is a new valve body. The dealer has the equipment to set those solenoids for the correct flow rate. They should be right. I have had the Reman companies have you do that when their valve bodies don't work right and it has never cured the problem. Look on your scanner and see if it has a battery reset that you can do. Have had some Dodge's lately that would not reset adapts till doing the battery reset first. Not all manufacturers have that option though.
I can't believe they thought it was a good idea to put the speed sensors behind the valve body! I've got some wonky shifting and a P1719 Engine Torque Signal DTC. I'm guessing that one of the speed sensors is defective since if I clear the codes it comes back immediately with just key on, engine off... What's strange is all the related PIDs, input speed, output speed and Torque from Engine all look reasonable...
It is not a speed sensor problem. You have a problem on the engine side or a communication problem between the ECM & TCM on the CAN lines, or a problem on the CEM side.
For some reason your other post disappeared so I will answer it here. The one speed sensor is accessible when you take the valve body off. The other one is only accessible when you disassemble the unit. It is bolted to the transfer gear. Care needs to be taken when assembling as to not pinch the wires.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. I already had a dead SAS unit, and suddenly got a MAP, fuel pressure and this Torque error. Guess I'll start with the MAP sensor and work my way through things one at a time...
How common is it that these are actually mechanically worn out? Everything I've seen is that you normally just need to put a valve body in them, and you're good to go.
Usual problem is the valve body. The rubber does start getting hard when they get a lot of miles on them. I have never seen them with gear damage. I think I have only replaced one pump. They are a good unit.
@Curmudgeon Transmission I made the mistake of replacing the fluid in the tf80sc on my 06 v70r for the first time at 105k... Shifting has gone DRASTICALLY downhill ever since. Now at 115k the transmission is starting to feel absolutely terrible. I assume valve body is trashed but also pretty sure I can hear torque converter whining.
Last November I underwent the exciting experience of taking out my TF-80 out of my V8 XC90. My torque converter was shuddering pretty bad going uphill with low throttle settings. But my transmission also fell into the affected valve body serial numbers. So I just changed the torque converter and valve body, all new seals, welded the angle gear sleeve, did the transmission adaptation, and everything is smooth glass. And AWD works great. I do a lot of towing with my XC90 as well.
@@qqslp there been a lot of reports that using the multi-vehicle synthetic Valvoline transmission fluid causes problems with these trannys. You want to use 3309 transmission fluid. Only. Non-synthetic. The reason your tranny probably started acting up, was he put new fluid in it, that fluid cleaned up some deposits, and now you're having line pressure drops in the valve body. That's my guess anyway
@Kyle Horn I put in Aisin 3309. Tried running adaptations with VIDA and pretty much everything I can else I think of such as all new engine mounts. Seems to be getting worse. Especially if I put the transmission in sport or advanced mode... Upshifts are often violent... Lately I have been driving extremely timidly due to concern about causing bigger problems... A lot of cruise control, which also behaves weirdly.
Wow! Thank you so much for going thru this in such detail. It's awesome that you are willing to share your knowledge and experience. Can you clarify what you are trying to do at 48:42 (ua-cam.com/video/aG8dwUR0Bzk/v-deo.html). Was this required to insert the next components, or were you replacing a seal? What is the function of the part you clamped? Thanks!
BTW: For others, here is a diagram of this transmission: www.transtar1.com/TranstarIndustries/media/Transtar1/catalogs/transtar/flipbooks/2018-Automatic-eCat-Complete/mobile/index.html#p=55 And it appears that Cobra is the only one that stocks complete overhaul kits online: cobratransmission.com/master-kit-af40-saab-opel-tf-80sc-2006-up-305005-1
And another. I've already had my VB rebuilt and tested. But perhaps I should have went new. Do you know if the VB on a v6 Saab 9-3 is the same as other cars that might be cheaper? This info could help the Saab community. Thanks again!!!
I am trying to install the servo for the band and it is spring loaded. Very difficult to install, especially by yourself. You want to be able to see the end of the servo and make sure it is on the band anchor, easy to miss it.
UA-cam is supposed to automatically do them, they did not for some reason. I will get to it as soon as I can. Takes a lot of time to do them on a video this long. Will let you know when I get it done. Thanks for letting me know.
Tom you are amazing, I've enjoyed watching your great job done. Wish you be in Sydney I'd come for consultation or repairs. Could you give me a hint with my gearbox on xc90 3.2 2008 problems are: appeared noise when gear is changed between R and D bothways; changing gears 2-3 is not as smooth as was before; slight oil leak on gearbox cant exactly locate. Thought it was angle gear but it is ok. Located a huge play inside the gearbox attached video ( ua-cam.com/video/5QQ7BQXfJEc/v-deo.html ). What I should do to fix the problem at 140k km. Thank you!
Thanks. Noises can be tough even when you are there to hear them. Does look like a lot of play. I don't think you will be able to get parts to fix that play. You will more than likely have to replace the whole diff. When you do put it back together, put Moly grease on all those shafts that have rust. It will help keep that from happening. Those are prone to bad wear also when that happens. So, take your axles and see if the splines are worn also.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you. it is not rust but copper grease, was surprised too. Applied grease when was assembling everything back together. As I understood you mean the diff axles in gear box will need to be replaces which is not cheap. So if rebuild gearbox cost is around 2k is it cheaper or not, cos the replacement I may try to do on my own. Sincerely appreciated for your advice Tom!
Mate, thankyou for being such a boss and sharing your expertise.
People like you make the world a whole lot more engaging.
Your a legend.
Cheers
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
Very good video! Thanks from Germany. That will save me a lot of time;)
Thanks
Tom you are simply amazing i have enjoyed watching your great work done,i wish you here in Italy as i need to do this job on my gearbox .... 5 star
Thanks. Maybe some day I will visit there. Always wanted to go to Greece also, mother side is from there. Thanks for watching.
Thanks!
Welcome! Thank you for supporting the channel!!
What a hero you are sir
That I am not, never been in a situation to be one. Thanks for the sentiment though. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission not all hero’s wear capes you know… thank you very much for the time taken to do this , may save me £1000s…
I changed my oil a few months back , added some Lucas atf fluid too as it’s supposed to help with smoothness….. first drive of the day, when it got to 3rd it would jump out of gear for a second and revs jump, now it has stopped, but I feel like I have 2 3rd gears …..
I will be going up a hill, hit third and it will go from 4K revs to 3k revs, and I can hear the change of revs drop , it doesn’t seem to slip, once it drops it stays there , otherwise it’s a great gearbox….it’s like it’s not engaging fully straight away, do you think this is the valve body rather than the clutch? Would it be worth taken the body off and giving it a clean before splashing out?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I’ve just filled my last fresh litre of oil in( I know it’s nowhere near enough) oil was a bad colour so I’m hoping it will be better when I get a full flush,
I was wrong in saying it’s jumping from 4rpm to 3rpm,
It’s from 2000 rpm it will drop to 1800rpm in 3rd gear only ever so slightly, I thought the fluid would be in better condition considering I put 5l through a few months ago but obviously it needs doing a few times
Otherwise the box is very smooth and changes perfectly !
At some point you will be putting a valve body on it. Main problem with these units. If you are starting to experience strange problems, do it now. You can probably change it and get a lot more mileage out of it. Don't forget to reset the adaptives and do a relearn on it afterwards.
Merci beaucoup votre vidéo m’as bien aider 😊
Glad it helped, thank you for the donation.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission You're welcome. I would have liked to know what type of grease you used, I am currently reassembling the box.
Currently using the blue Transjel and green Dr. Tranny. Blue for lip seals, green for holding things in place, i.e.. bearings and washers, etc.. Gold I used for the lip seals in this video is no longer available.
Very good instructional video. I have a problem with this automatic gearbox: Tg-81 sc, 2015 Volvo xc60. Please advise what repair kit and where to buy it? Regards
@@banicizamojscy6041 Transtec with Raybestos clutches. WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description.
Awesome. I have one of these in a '07 Volvo V70R. Looks to be a little bit of a PITA in some parts of the assembly, but not the end of the world. I keep the fluid as fresh as I can, but still worry about the torque limitations of this transaxle with the power the car makes. Hopefully I won't have to go into it anytime soon. Thanks for this detailed assembly video.👍
Thanks for watching. First sign of something not right if you will put a new valve body on it you will probably be able to keep going.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks!
Thank you for your video, I just rebuild my first transmission, but I have slight problem, now my reverse has 6 speeds...
You should patent that.
My 2006 Volvo s60 needs a new box. Is there any reason a newer box, I.e 2011 S60 TF80 SC wouldn’t work(as far as I know only the fluid is different, but that can be flushed out). All scrappers seem to list 2011-2016 as compatibility
In late 2010 they changed everything in this transmission, including the computer strategy. Might work if it comes with the computer that matches it.
I noticed a cut in there around 33 minutes where I assume you snugged down the 55mm torx bolts...
Correct
hi, thanks for the really high quality and detailed video. I have a 2007 Volvo D5 with this particular automatic transmission. the transmission shifts gears otherwise really well, but in a kickdown acceleration the 6-> 4 shift is pretty sharp. Tried to change the Valvebody, but the problem still occurs. Can you guess what is causing this problem?
Is this a brand new one or a used one? Did you reset the adaptives and relearn it?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission this car and transmission have 220kkm/137,5kmiles. Fluid is flushed @100kkm, 175kkm and 215kkm. Valvebody were brandnew oem and was replaced @215kkm and all adaptions was deleted and relearn process was done at the same time.
After relearn transmission worked like 200-300km without the sharp swift, mut it came slowly back.
You might check and see if there is new software upgrade where you are. We do not have that specific model here, but there are TSB's for other models with that complaint. If it is not a software problem you may have clearance problems inside the transmission that the computer is trying to compensate for.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission im quessing if bleeding pistons could cause this kind of problems. Latest software for tcm-module is from 2011 and its done
It would seem that you have some kind of internal problem going on.
Thanks for a great video! Do you know what's the differens between tf-80sc and tf-82sc? If I've understood it right them are pretty similar..
It goes by several names depending on it's application. There is no 82 it's an 81, regardless, they are almost identical. Differences mostly in clutch capacity and some of the internal parts. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ok that's good to know, thanks for info👍🏼
Hi dear ,great job . What was the problem on this gear box?
Don't remember. But I am pretty sure it was shifting problems. Flairing upshifts and bumpy downshifts. Worse hot is usually how it stats out. From a worn out valve body and/or solenoids.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok do you know the recurring problem on those models?
Valve Body. How much gets damaged beyond that depends on how much it was driven after the symptoms started. If caught early usually you can just replace the valve body.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission do you know from where à buzzing noise can comme from this type ou transmission ? On my tf72sc (MINI) f55 I have a buzzing nose on all gear shift except reverse and I don't know where to check.
@@brahim55 Usually buzzing noises are from the filter. But does not make sense that it is not doing it in reverse.
really good video, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
One question, you mentioned the back bush of C2 could spin, I also read this somewhere else and they sold a special bush with some kind of pin insert to avoid the problem in the future.
I can't find this place anymore, do you know where I could buy this bush ?
another question, do you replace the bonded pistons everytime ? or can you avoid them ?
Cheers !
Thanks. Not sure about the pinned one. Omega Machine and tool sells a bushing kit for it. As far as the pistons it is a judgement call. Most of the ones I see have so many miles on them and have been so hot that so far, I replace them. sales.omegamachine.com/TF_80SC_Bushing_Kit_p/135500.htm
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks mate 👍
Très bonne vidéo !
Thank you.
Hi Tom! The filter in valve body made from plastic or metal wire? Necessary to change that or enough clean, when change the oil? Thanks education, U are GRATE!
Thanks. The one inside the valve body you can clean. The one on the outside needs to be replaced.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hi Tom! When i change the seal ring on this bearbox between body and cooler lines, necessary to punch a hole on sealing, or made this the pipe? How its work, pls help me! Thousands thanks!
@@csabajuhasz7584 You can if you want but not necessary. When you put the lines on it will punch a hole in them.
Quick question for you, I’d the output speed sensor behind the valve body?
I think it is worse than being behind the valve body. If I remember correctly it is the one bolted to the support. So you have to disassemble the unit to change it. Very easy to pinch the wires also. So pay close attention to how it is routed and make sure ALL the hold downs are back in there and where they were. Been a long time since I have seen one. And as I am sure you have found, information on this unit is harder to find than hens teeth.
2:20 its some special oil?
No, it is Transgel Gold. I use the gold to lube stuff and green to hold stuff in place , like bearings and washers. They make 4 different thickness. Dr. Tranny makes the same thing.
Thanks for the video. I am working on one right now. Do you have any manuals for this transmission for overhaul? I cant seem to find anything from Alldata or Mitchell, or ATSG.
There are not any that I know of.
13:13 Itsa special glue?
No, it is 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
Is this a good reliable gearbox for opel 1.4 petrol ? Thanks
It's a good transmission. Weak point being the valve body. But they usually last a good while.
How much will a rebuild like this will cost
You never know until you open it up, all depends on the damage but probably in the 3-4000 dollar range.
Is this the same gearbox in 2010 Volvo C70 D4?
If it has a 6 speed, yes. If it is a 5 speed it is a AW55-51SN.
Thank you so much for your reply @@CurmudgeonTransmission
Thank you very much 🌹❤️
You’re welcome 😊
I have a TF80 with the badge A20DTH... to be changed, it shifts well in gears 1-2-3... but from the 4th gear it slips as if it had no clutch, it idles and after a while it gives me on board transmission service, and the gearbox remains stuck in 4th gear and if I stop the wheels it stays in 2nd gear... what should I change in the gearbox?
Probably a bad valve body. If you caught it early enoughyou may get by with just replacing it.
Dear Tom, love your channel! I have a 2012 XC60 T6 3.0L. TCM has a DTC P0741 - “Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit performance or stuck OFF”. There are no symptoms. Where shall I start trouble shooting? I was thinking to install Level 10 valve body initially. Thanks in advance for your response!
Thanks. If you have a scanner you can watch the TCC slip and see if it is too high. If it is and you have caught it early enough. There is a good chance a valve body will take care of it. If it goes on too long it will burn the clutch in the converter and it will need to be replaced also. It may be an electrical problem but that is rare. Usually worn out VB.
Thanks for your reply Tom! Happy to hear a new valve body can save the transmission. This was the very first time I’ve seen this code and no symptoms so far, hopefully it’s discovered early enough. I cleared the DTC 3 days back since then haven’t showed up. That means there was no big difference in RPM between the torque converter and main shaft / no slip. Anyway I’ll order a new VB.
Hello, Thank You for an amazing video. Currently I have my transmission split apart, case sandblasted with glass balls, cover painted and ready for assembly, I would like to ask if you use some specific torque setings? I found some general values based on bolt size, but I could not find any specific procedure for rebuild regarding torque settings.
Once more, Thank You ;)
Tried finding that info out and have not had any luck, not surprising, some are very hard to find info on. Sounds like you got a pretty good grasp on it. If you know how it is calculated you can apply that to most any of them. As far as clutch clearances go. I have never had one come out incorrect using a good kit with good clutches. I like transtec kits and Raybestos Clutches. Usually a good rule of thumb is .008-.010 per clutch disc. End play for most anything will be between .005-.030, some are a little more. Never had one not come out correctly on that either. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank You for your reply and know-how. It is hard to rebuild the transmission for the first time and this video helped me a lot.... Currently, I am in half of the assembly process doing counter-drive gear assembly. Is there any process to bleed transmission after installation? I was just wondering if the system bleeds itself, or there are used pressure check bolts to bleed the system? Do you also clean the valve body and valve itself? I know there is the process when valves are stripped down completely and cleaned, but I was thinking just to clean it with spray at least.
Thank You :)
No way to bleed the system, that is what the vent does. I don't remember if I showed the valve body portion in this video it's been so long. I don't go through these valve bodies. These are one of the units I recommend you put a new valve body on. It's really your best option on this unit.
Hi Tom thanks for such an awesome and informative video.
I have the same transmission on my alfa romeo 159.
I'm having a bang or a knock if I may describe it when I shift from park to reverse to drive and also from drive to reverse to park
I noticed that the gearing is not smooth like it used to be during up and down shifts.I haven't attempted anything thus far can you please advise me further
Thanking you in advance
Not being able to experience the problem it is going to be hard to say. Sounds like you might have some broken mounts. As far as the shifting issues go you may have a valve body that is getting worn out or it could be a mount issue also. That is where the problems start on this transmission. You could try to fix it if you wanted to invest in all the tools but in my opinion, it is better to just buy a new valve body from the dealer. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hi Tom thanks for your reply i forgot to mention this only happens when the transmission is hot and when I'm in traffic
when you say mounts you referring to the engine and gearbox mountings.
@@rafiekahmed8568 Yes, the ones that hold everything in place. Since it only does it hot you have a valve body problem. I would do a brand new one.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hi thanks much appreciated
Could you tell us which grease you use? Vaseline grease? And what is the 3M number of the 3M adhésive that you use? Much apreciated.
Transjel gold and green. 08001
Hello, from the 20th minute of the video, is there a needle bearing in the housing at the bottom? and basket c2 enters it?
Yes there is.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for your answer, because my gearbox had a problem with the sound of friction after warming up in 4th and 5th gear, it was repaired but the sound is still heard and is under complaint, the mechanic says that the bearing is damaged deep in the gearbox housing and it causes this sound and it is hard to replace , and watching your video I wonder if it's the placenta.
Hard to say. I will say I have never seen that one bad.
Perfect handcraft …
Thanks
Hey Tom i really enjoy watching your videos, I have a volvo s60 with this transmission with 120k miles. It has never had a fluid change due to it being "lifetime fluid". Would you recommend changing the fluid to avoid future problems like these?
Thanks. I personally wouldn't do it. There does come a point where it can create problems. If it had been done every year or two, I wouldn't have a problem with it.
Can You show the spare parts number, this set link??
The major parts suppliers I deal with are listed in every video description. The rebuild kit and most parts will be from WIT or Transtar.
Thank you for this video
Your welcome.
Thanks very much for this informative video. I have a strange issue with an Alfa 159 fitted with this transmission. At cruising speeds around 50 kph, sometimes the whole car will shake/shudder with a low frequency. As if, there's an unbalance. When I stop or accelerate, it's gone. Mostly it happens after deceleration and acceleration at a roundabout. I have a suspicion it is related to the torque converter. Any idea what's causing this?
That going to be hard to say without experiencing it. I don't think it is going to be the TC. The speed is too low to be tires. I would take a really close look at the transmission and motor mounts.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks. Motor mounts are all new. Actually the whole transmission is already overhauled including a new valve body. I have now sent the TC out for revision, because it's one part I cannot check myselves. Let's see if a new lockup clutch liner and a overrunning clutch will help out.
I'm trying to determine if the left drivers CV axle has a removable sleeve or bushing to support it I'm getting radio play and from your video it just seems like it's part of the carrier
They do not have a removeable sleeve. If you are talking about the shaft sticking out of the case, that is part of the spider gear of the differential. I would not take that apart and try to use the seals that come in the rebuild kit. They usually do not fit properly. Too loose. If you do change them, use some sealer on them to keep them in there, or they will probably leak. That is supported by the differential bearings. If there is too much play the bearings and races will need to be replaced.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission where is your shop. Can pull the transmission and send out to you
Hello, Mine is a Ssangyong Tivoli diesel with the same aisin gear box. About 100,000km done. I'm having shruddering issues violently mainly from 4 to 6th gears around 45-80km/h when the RPM is low 1300-1700rpm. And noticable shruddering most of the other times even above 2000rpm What could be the issue? Brandnew engine, gear box mounts have been replaced. Injectors, timing chain kits, belts, waterpumps all have been replaced. This issue started finally we did a transmission oil change.
Sometimes doing a fluid change can create issues. Sounds like it is time for a rebuild. Valve bodies are always worn out on these. This is where the problem starts. How long you drive with the issue determines how much other damage there will be.
@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you so much for your kind reply. One more question, rebuilding the whole transmission unit including valve box will resolve the issue? I have seen some people say that we have to replace the valve box without rebuilding it.
@@LahiruGunathilake1 Replacing the VB may fix it.
If ft80sc is dragged off on engine, converter is dragged out of the oil pump and connected to another enigne without proper alignment, what damage can we expect?
Minimum, broken pump and/or torque converter.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Got a hold of a gear box out of an awd car. What needs to be changed from the broken gearbox to mismatch those two gearboxes to make one functional?
Angle gear?
Diff and transfer gears for sure.
Hi Tom, according to your knowledge and experience would you consider the main root cause for this transmission to have problems is the overheating issue? Thank you very much
That is an issue however the main problem is the valve body.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very Much!
Id like to replace the solenoids on my valve body. I also have a 2013 volvo s60. Any idea where I can buy just the replacement solenoids?
Transtar or WIT. Links are in the description.
Hello. Where can i buy rebuild kit for aw50-42le in Europe ?
I have no idea. WIT will ship there, I believe Transtar will as well.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks. Where is the problem? 1 2 3 D not working (no reaction) but R working good. Aw50-42le
Won't know till you get in there. Probably the sprag or C1 Clutch.
Hi mate. I have a question. Can you introduce assembly side way of friction clutch disck and steel plate. Steel plate one side is sharp, other side is soft edge. Clutch disk similar same both side. I will be glad to you if i can learn it )). I am completed almost my tf80 due no gear 4-5-6. I ordered transpeed rebuild kit. First my inspection is all clutch wear out. No any visual damage - burnout and wear out other parts Looks like only wear out the clutch. I will first rebuild all oring - seal and clutch. If will not effect then i will focus to valve body. I am not yet start to dissambly it.
Sorry, I don't have that information. My guess would be down. Look real close at the drum with the shaft and make sure it does not have a crack. Same with the large piston that goes in it. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for your answer. I didnt yet check deeply the piston body and drums. Its good diagnostic for no gear 4-5-6. Because this problem did happen at once. Before i was not any complaint. This seems not aged wear problem. I will continue follow the your mastery.
Hi. Very useful video. I have a problem with this transmission in a Range Rover. No one can seem to advise. Had noise on slow down, found left drive shaft completely worn, replaced with new (difficult to remove) new one fitted. Now, when first start up goes into each gear nice. After minute or so goes into reverse fine but when engage drive there is a huge clonk and the whole engine and gearbox try to rotate forward, once in drive is fine. Only occurs when move shifter into drive. Any ideas the cause.
I am assuming this problem is new. First thing that comes to mind is a bad mount. Next thing would be something wrong with that axle.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I thought bad axle too. Put the old one back in and is the same. It’s ok for about 3 minutes then clonks and gets progressively worse.
Sounds like a worn valve body. Strange that it was not there till you changed the axle.
Hi. Maybe you could advice wich of oil cooler lines are feeed line to the cooler and which one ir the return? Appreciate support.
I don't know. Can not find any info on it. You will just have to pull the cooler lines off and see which one is pumping out fluid.
Hi Tom!
Do you have a service manual for this gearbox,and are you willing to share it?
I'm very interested, as I just opened my gearbox and just want to repair it.
No, sorry I don't.
Might check ATSG and ATRA bookstores and see if they have one.
Thank you, will do !
@@wensz1 Looked on ATRA's website and they have 3 listings for AWF21 which is the other designation for this transmission. When you click on it nothing shows up but has an add to cart option, 40 for member 60 for non. Might give them a call 8664642872. They are on the west coast so PST, believe their hours are 8-5.
@@GuestInMyOwnCountry Without feeling it it would be hard to say. Engine misfires feel like transmission problems and show up more in higher gears at slow speeds of around 45-50mph. Could be a transmission problem though. Wrong fluid can cause problems as well. Need all the particulars you can give me.
Where are you located good Sir, I have a 2007 Volvo XC90 v8 with a TF80SC transmission that might need some work in the future. I live in Denver Colorado. I am hoping you are somewhere within driving distance 500-600 miles.
A lot further than that. Go here and go to the shop finder tab. www.atra.com
Hello Sir! What's the best thing to wash this parts with? Bensin is diesel?
We use mineral spirits.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission tnx for reply! U are working on workshop! If I want do it which one is better?
Which ever does not irritate your skin as much. All that matters is that the parts are clean. There are numerous things you can use to do that. Either of those is fine.
Hi where are you based ?
Hi, Is there any reason why some would outright refuse working on this gearbox or is it due to unfamiliarity?
My shifting from 4th to 5th under high acceleration, the gearbox skips 5th and goes to 6th. Then it would autoshift back to 5th after a few seconds. Any idea why it would be happening?
Thanks for the great channel.
I don't know to your first question. As far as your problem is concerned I would need more information. Have you had the system scanned for codes? Biggest problem with this unit is a worn out valve body.
Hi! I watched whole video two times, but i didn't spot assembly of transmission oil filter. This gearbox does have filter, right?? 😯
My 2009 Volvo V70 2.4d geartronic does have service record of transmission oil changes, but there is no mention about transmission filter change. 🤔
Yes it does. 15:24 mark. You have to pull the front case and pump off to get to it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ok! So i just didn't notice it! 😂 Thanks for the fast response! Amazing channel!
Thanks, thanks for watching.
one quick question. how do you test the input speed sensor? I'm working on a Mazda CX-9 with a P0715 code and the ISS is showing Open Line, how many ohms should have? Thanks in advance. BTW greetings from Guatemala in Central America.
Hello from America. More than 1 mega ohm.
Thanks a lot, gonna try it first thing tomorrow morning.
Tom, Thank you for this informative video. I have an SC-80 in my 2016 Volvo Polestar. I have three questions for you. 1. In your opinion is the fluid pump powerful enough to adequately circulate the fluid through both the OEM trans cooler (heat exchanger) and an additional Setreb external cooler mounted in the return line from the OEM cooler? This setup probably doubles the size of the fluid cooler loop. 2. I don't trust the temperature sensor in the transmission. It provides a signal to the ECU which I can monitor using an OBDII reader. As an example, I can start a cold car and the temperature sensor will read 40-50F higher than ambient temp, right at startup. Also, 95% of the time the trans temp will be exactly the same as the coolant temp, to the 1/10 degree. I think the trans temp is just a ghost signal for the coolant temp. For this reason I want to install a direct reading temp sensor in the fluid pan of the transmission. I can obtain a fitting that requires drilling a opening in the pan and inserting a thru fitting that holds the sensor. (I already have fitted direct reading coolant and engine oil temp gauges.) In you video it looks like the lower right side of the pan has a void behind it that would be sufficient for the fitting to protrude 3/8-1/2 inch into the fluid. Do you agree? 3. The last time I tracked my car I hit 265F trans fluid temp reading the OBDII signal. Is this temp dangerous for this transmission? Thank you so much for your time and expertise.
Thanks for watching. Pump will be just fine. Transmission temp is going to be right in line with engine temp. Transmission temperature sensor provides a signal to the ECU to tell if the transmission is overheating. I only get to see one of these units every couple of years so I don't remember if one will fit there. Do not get rid of the one that comes in it as you will cause the transmission to be in a failsafe mode, just add it separately. 265 is too hot it should be close to causing it to go to failsafe mode and throw a code, should be down around 215 or less, adding a cooler should help. Best way to run it would be in parallel and not in series, that way if one gets restricted the other will still give cooling capabilities.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Tom, thanks so much for you insights! One more question: On the transmission housing there is an upper and lower port for the external fluid circulation loop. Volvo puts a thermostat bypass valve in these two ports. Can you confirm that the lower of the two ports is the outbound or discharge port?
@@JeffLReeb That info right there can be really hard to find, I'll see what i can find.
You can always just pull the lines off and start it for just a second with a bucket to catch the fluid and whichever port it is coming out of is the discharge.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission The Volvo OEM lines have these plastic locking clips on the hose terminations that; 1. make the fitting very hard to pop off. 2. Break frequently when you remove the line and the replacement lines are stupid priced, like over $100 each. Thanks for checking. I even called the source that Aisin recommended and he wasn't sure.
Hi Mr Tom,i am sorry to bother you
I do have a problem with my Citroen C5 automatic gearbox AWTF80SC
The Bearing on differential is getting broken,make very bad noise when I am driving the car
I've been looking for code of bearing,but i can't find any code to match the Bearing so I can buy and replace, would be possible to tell me the code of the Bearing which is attached to the differential?
Thank you so much for what you are doing
WIT #'s 255288A, 2552889A, 255291A and 255292A is all I could find for you. If you have it apart there are numbers on both the bearing and race. Sometimes you can call a place that sells bearings, and they can cross those numbers over.
Hello!
Can I use Aisin Premium ATF 6 oil (JWS3309/AW1 specifications) in this type of gearbox? I have a Saab 9-3 6 speed automatic from 2007.
Yes AW1 is what it calls for.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very much.
What could cause these to have a hard downshift?
Usually a worn out valve body, sometimes bad programming in the computer.
Good morning, I have a 2011 Volvo S60 T6 model, I think the automatic transmission is this one, TF-80SC, but the manual says to use VOLVO BOT 341 double clutch oil, VOLVO 1161838, what oil should I use?
AW1 or the 1161838. DO NOT use the dual clutch fluid.
Is it really important to place those snap rings based on certain clock locations? Can't it be placed in any other way?
Some snap rings should be put in certain locations, if I say it should be in a position then it is important it be there, if it's not important I usually say so and say it is just where I put it. Sometimes it is critical it be where they say it should be.
...what exactly does make Final Drive Ratio on this gearbox? Also wonder if has interchangeable diffs? I have a 2.4 diesel with FWD, and there is a 3.2 petrol with AWD, could one take double diff from AWD and put it into FWD?
Thanks in advance
You cannot just swap them out. Even if you could it would need reprogramming for the new ratio. Otherwise it would throw ratio codes and go to failsafe mode. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission well, here is the thing, as far as I know, gearbox ECU doesn't count Final Drive Ratio, at least on my car, since it sees gears (calculates and compares to constants memorized) via two sensors in gearbox alone, and both of them, if I understand Final Drive Ratio placement are before it.
Final Drive Ratio is calculated, I presume, between inter and diff gear/cog... And there are like 3 different Final Drive Ratios for my car, and gearbox ECU doesn't see those at all... only thing that gearbox ECU looks at is engine rpm, since petrol and diesels have different max shift points.
Thanks in advance
How much horsepower and torque can this transmission handle. I have a Volvo S80 with a Stage 2 tune and blew the transmission on it. Rumor has it, that this transmission can handle 500 horsepower and 500 ft/lb of torque. I was at 420 hp and about 480 ft/lb of torque. I dialed back the the custom tune and so far so good with a used 26,000 mile transmission.Your thoughts? Any way to beef up this transmission.
Also, if I need to do a valve body or get the transmission serviced, where are you located. My car is a 2015.5 Volvo S80 T6 3.0. Love the car and with the added power it’s a hoot to drive. Great video, thanks for your excellent transfer of knowledge.
In late 2010 they made a bunch of improvements to the transmission and computer. So, you have all the "updates" that are available. Anybody reading this don't think you can use 2011 parts in a previous model. You CANNOT. They are NOT compatible. As far as I know nothing else is available. You run things with boosted power you run the risk of breaking things. Thanks for watching.
Thank you.
hi dear i have dodge neon 2017 it have exactly the same transsmision gear TF72SC . Is it possiable to use the shift gear module from any other brand like opel or mazda or vovlo or any brand use the same transsmision gear or not possiable ?
This transmission was never put in a Dodge Neon in the States, maybe overseas. Don't know for a fact but I doubt it would work.
Hi, would occasion 2nd gear slip which happens in Drive but not Sport mode be a valve body issue? Thanks
Most all shifting issues in this unit are a valve body problem. The reason it is not doing it in sport mode is probably because that shift strategy raises the pressure and the shift points in the unit.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for your reply
Hi Tom, I have a 2007 Ford Fusion. I had to replace the TCM and when I loosened the nut for the manual lever it turned fully counter clockwise. I can't get the selector to turn back clockwise to place the trans in neutral. Am I missing something? every other trans I've worked with you could move the shift detent vey easily. This one is not budging at all and I'm afraid to get to crazy and break it off. Any idea what is happening? Thank you very much! John
I think you must have gone past the detent. You are going to have to take the side pan off and take a look at it. Probably just need to loosen the detent, move the linkage back and then re-tighten it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you Tom. I will do that. Appreciate you sharing your expertise!
Thanks for watching!
Some say that is worthless to rebuild these boxes and it's better to find one used with low mileage. What do you think?
As long as you are willing to put a brand new valve body it will work fine. They are not cheap but that is where the problem is. You can spend the money getting the reamers and valves and you still run a 50-50 chance it will not work properly. I have not had very much luck with rebuilt valve bodies you can buy either, about the same as doing it yourself.
@@GuestInMyOwnCountry Torque converter is failing because the valve body is worn out usually.
@@GuestInMyOwnCountry Never seen any animation, but seen fluid diagrams, not for this transmission though.
@@GuestInMyOwnCountry Some are extremely sensitive to viscosity.
greetings from the uk i have this box in my xc90 and notice on the small drive shaft side the inner joint at the gearbox can be moved about quite a bit like play inside the box not the shaft its self. would it be something inside the auto box like a bearing failed? or normal on these first ive felt this on a car. thanks for the info if you know :)
If it is not leaking or making noise this may be normal. I have never seen that bearing bad on these units but that does not mean yours is not bad.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yea not 1 leak or sweat from the seal which is why i found it strange! thanks alot for the reply :)
@@judgedead7182 Thanks for watching.
If possible, you should make a new video of the tf80sc. You didnt film every move because of the camera angle. And if possible film a tear-down of the TM. Thanx and keep up with the interessting videos.
Thanks for watching. I plan to. Have moved the camera since this video and added mounts to film the tear downs now. Only get about one of these a year. Had one come in a couple of weeks ago but we did not get the job.
what if the oil filter in this transmission is dead? The whole transmission has to be replace for the new one ? I am asking because as I know the oil filter is unable to be replaced as is integrated
The transmission will need to be removed from the vehicle. And the bell housing and pump removed to get access to it. If the filter is bad, you probably have other issues that need to be fixed. With all that labor you will have already done I would rebuild the unit while it is out.
Does the rebuild include filter replacement ? there is any way to implement new one ?@@CurmudgeonTransmission
@@Bartosh-l2q When I rebuild one I replace it. You can replace it without rebuilding it.
so the statement that this filter is unreplaceable is fake? that sound's good :) @@CurmudgeonTransmission
hi i am rebuilding my gearbox at the moment and i am just wondering dies it matter how the pistons go ?do they need to lign up with oil channels in any way?thank you
I believe on this unit only the low/ reverse and it only will fit one way. If there is anything that needs to go in a particular spot ( snap rings, pistons, etc. ) I will mention it usually. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very much for the information
@@andrislejasmeijers7541 You're welcome.
Super. Great :)
Many thanks!
Подскажите подалуйста.. буксует 2 и 3 передача. 3-5 секунд.заменен гидроблок, фрикционы,поршня рещиновые, тормоз лента, все уплотнения. Ничего не поменялось.гидротрансформатор ремонтировали.
The valve body is where your problem is. You are either going to have to hope you can find a good used one, buy all the reamers and valves from Sonnax or the best fix is a new valve body.
Hi i finished rebuilding my transmission but now it has harsh 4-5 and 3-4 downshifts apart from that the transmission works fine.will it take time for the new parts to brake in and then the transmission will settle or have done something wrong?it has a new valve body in it.does the b4 brake servo comes with 4 or 3 o rings thats the only thing i am not sure of doing right cause i only seen 3 o rings on it?thank you
Is it brand new or Reman? You need to reset the adaptives on the TCM. It will eventually relearn but you do run the risk of doing damage to the unit sometimes. It's better to reset and relearn the shifts after that as it will do it quickly. It will shift real sloppy after the reset so you need to drive it gently for the first several upshifts until it starts shifting correctly. Usually it will be ok within about 20-30 minutes of driving. If it is a reman valve body you may still have a valve body problem, have seen that a lot, that is why I recommend a new one. As far as the servo goes I don't remember how many o-rings it takes, have only done a few of these units so it does not stick in my mind. But they are not the cause of your harsh downshifts, you would have upshift problems as well. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission it is a brand new unit i have done the TCM relearn for about 4 hrs but it is still the same so i am pulling my hair out.it has new transtec pistons new alto frictions new transtec overhaul kit and new oe valve body.thank you.
@@andrislejasmeijers7541 I don't use Alto clutches, they have always given me shifting problems. Only ones I will use are their racing clutches. What type of fluid did you use? You might try a bottle or two of black Lubegard and see if it modifies the frictions enough to smooth out the shift.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission i used Liqui Moly top tec 1800 atf.might give that lubegard a go if it wont get better in few weeks.would adjusting the spring tension for solenoids in the valve body help?
@@andrislejasmeijers7541 I would not mess with those especially if it is a new valve body. The dealer has the equipment to set those solenoids for the correct flow rate. They should be right. I have had the Reman companies have you do that when their valve bodies don't work right and it has never cured the problem. Look on your scanner and see if it has a battery reset that you can do. Have had some Dodge's lately that would not reset adapts till doing the battery reset first. Not all manufacturers have that option though.
I can't believe they thought it was a good idea to put the speed sensors behind the valve body! I've got some wonky shifting and a P1719 Engine Torque Signal DTC. I'm guessing that one of the speed sensors is defective since if I clear the codes it comes back immediately with just key on, engine off... What's strange is all the related PIDs, input speed, output speed and Torque from Engine all look reasonable...
It is not a speed sensor problem. You have a problem on the engine side or a communication problem between the ECM & TCM on the CAN lines, or a problem on the CEM side.
For some reason your other post disappeared so I will answer it here. The one speed sensor is accessible when you take the valve body off. The other one is only accessible when you disassemble the unit. It is bolted to the transfer gear. Care needs to be taken when assembling as to not pinch the wires.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. I already had a dead SAS unit, and suddenly got a MAP, fuel pressure and this Torque error. Guess I'll start with the MAP sensor and work my way through things one at a time...
How common is it that these are actually mechanically worn out? Everything I've seen is that you normally just need to put a valve body in them, and you're good to go.
Usual problem is the valve body. The rubber does start getting hard when they get a lot of miles on them. I have never seen them with gear damage. I think I have only replaced one pump. They are a good unit.
@Curmudgeon Transmission I made the mistake of replacing the fluid in the tf80sc on my 06 v70r for the first time at 105k... Shifting has gone DRASTICALLY downhill ever since. Now at 115k the transmission is starting to feel absolutely terrible. I assume valve body is trashed but also pretty sure I can hear torque converter whining.
Last November I underwent the exciting experience of taking out my TF-80 out of my V8 XC90. My torque converter was shuddering pretty bad going uphill with low throttle settings. But my transmission also fell into the affected valve body serial numbers. So I just changed the torque converter and valve body, all new seals, welded the angle gear sleeve, did the transmission adaptation, and everything is smooth glass. And AWD works great. I do a lot of towing with my XC90 as well.
@@qqslp there been a lot of reports that using the multi-vehicle synthetic Valvoline transmission fluid causes problems with these trannys. You want to use 3309 transmission fluid. Only. Non-synthetic. The reason your tranny probably started acting up, was he put new fluid in it, that fluid cleaned up some deposits, and now you're having line pressure drops in the valve body. That's my guess anyway
@Kyle Horn I put in Aisin 3309. Tried running adaptations with VIDA and pretty much everything I can else I think of such as all new engine mounts. Seems to be getting worse. Especially if I put the transmission in sport or advanced mode... Upshifts are often violent... Lately I have been driving extremely timidly due to concern about causing bigger problems... A lot of cruise control, which also behaves weirdly.
Wow! Thank you so much for going thru this in such detail. It's awesome that you are willing to share your knowledge and experience. Can you clarify what you are trying to do at 48:42 (ua-cam.com/video/aG8dwUR0Bzk/v-deo.html). Was this required to insert the next components, or were you replacing a seal? What is the function of the part you clamped? Thanks!
BTW: For others, here is a diagram of this transmission: www.transtar1.com/TranstarIndustries/media/Transtar1/catalogs/transtar/flipbooks/2018-Automatic-eCat-Complete/mobile/index.html#p=55
And it appears that Cobra is the only one that stocks complete overhaul kits online: cobratransmission.com/master-kit-af40-saab-opel-tf-80sc-2006-up-305005-1
And could I ask another question? Is there a way to check the piston operation with air?
And another. I've already had my VB rebuilt and tested. But perhaps I should have went new. Do you know if the VB on a v6 Saab 9-3 is the same as other cars that might be cheaper? This info could help the Saab community. Thanks again!!!
I am trying to install the servo for the band and it is spring loaded. Very difficult to install, especially by yourself. You want to be able to see the end of the servo and make sure it is on the band anchor, easy to miss it.
Yes there is, I don't believe I showed it, just follow the port and shoot some air to it.
Сильно ли отличаются TF-80 от TF-71SC? По корпусу много отличий?
Similar in appearance only. They are totally different.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission теоретически можно ли вместо 71 поставить 80?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission теоретически можно ли вместо 71 поставить 80?
No, sorry.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks you !
Включите субтитры пожалуйста
UA-cam is supposed to automatically do them, they did not for some reason. I will get to it as soon as I can. Takes a lot of time to do them on a video this long. Will let you know when I get it done. Thanks for letting me know.
Очень прошу сделать по данной акпп. Собирать буду через 4 дня. На английском не понимаю.перевод не работает
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ваше видео единственное с полной сборкой..на русском языке вообще ничего хорошего нет..спасибо за такие видео!!
They are up.
I liked the video up until the 37 minute mark when I couldn't see anything being done...
Tom you are amazing, I've enjoyed watching your great job done. Wish you be in Sydney I'd come for consultation or repairs. Could you give me a hint with my gearbox on xc90 3.2 2008 problems are: appeared noise when gear is changed between R and D bothways; changing gears 2-3 is not as smooth as was before; slight oil leak on gearbox cant exactly locate. Thought it was angle gear but it is ok. Located a huge play inside the gearbox attached video ( ua-cam.com/video/5QQ7BQXfJEc/v-deo.html ). What I should do to fix the problem at 140k km.
Thank you!
Thanks. Noises can be tough even when you are there to hear them. Does look like a lot of play. I don't think you will be able to get parts to fix that play. You will more than likely have to replace the whole diff. When you do put it back together, put Moly grease on all those shafts that have rust. It will help keep that from happening. Those are prone to bad wear also when that happens. So, take your axles and see if the splines are worn also.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you. it is not rust but copper grease, was surprised too. Applied grease when was assembling everything back together. As I understood you mean the diff axles in gear box will need to be replaces which is not cheap. So if rebuild gearbox cost is around 2k is it cheaper or not, cos the replacement I may try to do on my own.
Sincerely appreciated for your advice Tom!