Tom, you are a man of great skill who can obviously just be rebuilding transmissions, but the fact that you take the time to film it and explain what (and why) you are doing is truly a gift. Thank you for taking the time to post this, I learned a lot!
@@vernonbosshard9317 Thanks for supporting the channel. I was the same when I was young. Enjoy it while you can. After awhile you get used to it and no longer can smell it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I forgot to say, on this Equinox unit, when I did the motor work I removed the wiring from the transmission, I forgot and left one conn off, when I started it put it in D it hit HARD as HELL, it actually broke the rear trans mount, so might be some bad damage inside. How do you replace a bushing in one, do I need a special driver?
Thank you and for providing resources such as this to us , enabling and educating a gift you giving to take the time to document and video this , will be using this to try rebuild my volvo xc 70 trans
Greetings from Colombia . I congratulate you for your work and it is very professional of your part to help people with their doubts ... many successes for you.
Old, ill-tempered curmudgeon SAVED MY A$$!!! 40 years experience, M.E. degree, ATSG manual but it still helps to see how some of these epicyclic gear trains stack up. THANKS FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO. I actually believe I put it together correctly!!! Got to play harness games for the new GM valve body (another hot tip, thanks). Got some new one-piece bushings in there, the strongest LocTite (638 with time&temp cure, 4ksi shear) in a slightly worn case and maybe the Volvo can go another 200K. If you are considering this, there is a reason these (V70) cars get scrapped when the trans fails. Unless you are a glutton for punishment, WALK AWAY! Your looking at the rubber, friction, bushings, more bushings, bevel gear sleeve and seals, rear main, turbo tube with heater, an engine mount or two or 5, harness or rework, valve body, one solenoid, oils (3309, engine) and coolant, 20+ hours BEFORE you can do the adaptations, etc. I am sure I left out a bunch of stuff....exhaust parts and gaskets, maybe fix up the drive shaft, god knows how hard it's gonna be to get the gearbox and bevel gear back in there, it barely came out. Cooler seals and clips, magic hydraulic+cable engine mount in rear, had the torque converter reworked. I paid $1000 or the car and did timing belt, drove 40-50K miles and lost planet bushing. Now, if I succeed, I'll have $6K in car hopefully I get another 100K mi min. I am assuming labor is $100 and I think probably 25hrs so far. I think trans parts and valve body are over $1000-$1200. The little volvo-specific parts really ruin the deal. For all this effort I could probably have shoved an LS-swapped, Cayenne drivetrain under it. Then it would at least have ended up interesting.
My Equinox is AWD, the Trans case pass side output bearing race is pitted pretty bad, I bought 2 used units both were worse, not sure why that bearing race gets eaten up on all of them, but I have look into replacement and I believe you need to set up the gear lash on it with shims. I don't know, At the moment it does not make any noise and runs smoothly. The fluid GM recommends is some pricey stuff too.
Yes, they are bad about wear. The shim is under the race. So far mine have come out correct. I use the factory bearing. Fluid is pricey but it works the best with it. Bearing 24279804 Race 24279803
@@mertkanozen9380 What do you mean by drive pressure is late? And I assume you mean reverse is slipping? Did you replace the valve body with a new one?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Movement occurs after 5 seconds in position d. Reverse gear is missing. The unit has not changed. I just cleaned the valve body and replaced the filter.
The delay can be caused by the valve body, no reverse also. I have never seen a valve body that was not worn out. It is best to use new from the dealer. Could be you made a mistake in the valve body. You didn't rebuild the unit while you were in there?@@mertkanozen9380
Excellent video! You're the only one on UA-cam who has a rebuild (2 of them actually, thanks!) all others are tear downs only. I bought the Transtec seal kit. can only find a name brand friction kit by Exedy EFK-123. looks like Raybestos discontinued their RCP96-026. Who do you like for frictions? Many thanks!
Thanks, Exedy are ok. Yes they are made by Raybestos and for some reason you cannot find certain frictions for certain transmissions except for the Exedy brand. That has just happened within the last few years. Like I said they are fine but you can see the difference in the material. I prefer Raybestos or Borg Warner. Thanks for watching.
Liked the video, thanks for sharing. I have a couple general questions: When replacing the frictions, do you also burnish the steels or leave them be? Do you flush the transmission cooler or replace?
Leave them be. Not a fan of sanding them. If it comes to that point I would replace them with new ones. We have a flusher that heats up to operating temperature with transmission fluid in it. Works very well. If you don't have that. It would be a judgement call on the damage. Very hard to get it clean just using that can flush or mineral spirits and air. If it was real bad, replace it.
Hi Mr tom. Thank you so much for posting these vids for us. I'm Fascinated by transmissions and have tore into a couple. Please answer a question. My af33 has no engagement in any gear even though the range shaft is moving with the shift cable. Short of the detent spring being broken or misaligned, will a stuck closed slt valve cause no line pressure? Any thoughts? I did get various tranny codes but they went away and didn't return after they were cleared. That's why I'm suspecting the broken detent issue over sticking solenoids. Thank you in advance.
If it is not pumping fluid I would say there is something wrong with the filter or pump. If it is, then either the linkage is not attached, valve body problem or problem in the unit.
Hello. I need to change the oil sump gasket. I am afraid that this silicone gasket get loose and clog the filter or some solenoid, how to prevent this? Or there is no issue?
No issue. They come from the factory with silicone. Just use a good grade, Loctite598, EVO300, Ultra Grey or Ultra Black. You can buy a gasket, but they tend to leak.
So I have an equinox and the cooler lines got crimped in a wreck and went undetected, when I got it it was pretty burned up, I drained the fluid, fixed the cooler line, fluid was black, now 500 miles later it started whining and lost all the gears, drained and filled and got the gears back for few mins, repeated two more times before I gave up. Assume the filter is clogged up, anything I can do to get a few more miles out of it before I get it rebuilt? Any way to get the crud out of the filter or do you think the valve body is plugged now? Right now it doesn't whine but has no gears.
Can't afford to have a shop rebuild my kids equinox, so I thought about if I could do it myself. After watching your video im really confident that I can. What is the assembly lube are you using with the brush. I ordered the green stuff already. Thanks for the confidence and held. Great video to follow
thanks for the info and part number for the valve body. I'm putting it in a Volvo and you had stated you need to replace S2 solenoid, would you know the part number for said solenoid. the valve body I received was a B stamped body.
From Transtar the number is 89421C. As long as you did not have a no code or an A your wiring harness will work, also don't forget to check whether or not it has that spring under the valve on your old valve body and make sure the new one is the same. You should have a good working unit now. Reset the adapts if you have the capability. Do not be surprised if your first few shifts are really crappy. Should relearn pretty fast though.
Hello, I have a Chevrolet Captiva 2007 model, a six-piston engine, 3.2 liters of petrol. I have a problem when I am driving the car and the engine temperature is in the normal mode and at a slow speed, there is a jingle and a ticking sound, especially when changing the first and second gears also in reverse. The gearbox oil was changed and the problem persisted. Is it because of the body of the valve or the problem of sensors?
I don't handle the pricing side and have not been involved in that side of it for a long time. The price of parts has become high as with everything else nowadays. Cost is all going to be relative to the damage as well. A guess on my part, I would say mid 3000 to low 4000's. But that is just a guess.
Thank you so much for the video. It is excellent! I have a question, is it ok to buy a remanufactured valve body on ebay? Or a new one is the only way to save the situation? Thank you!
Thanks. I have tried several of the reman ones from different suppliers. I have even bought the reamers and done them myself as well as rebuilding the solenoids. You got about a 50-50 shot of it working. Then you have to argue with the reman place to give you another one. Plus the time you spend on it. You may have to do that several times. I have had 5 in a row not work before. Not worth it to me. Buy a new one and it will work.
Добрый день, подскажите пожалуйста, как вытащить или достать поршни из муфты этой трансмиссии, я снял стопорное кольцо но поршень осень плотно сидит в муфте. Муфта тормозной ленты.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Проблема в том что когда муфта демонтирована, туда не получается подать воздух, но я справился. Блогодаря своему опыту. Спасибо за ответ. 👍
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Подскажите пожалуйста, у меня есть проблема. Гидроблоке есть два шарика один резиновый и один металл, какой из них куда ставиться. В технической документации нет такой информации.
Hi. If I have the oldest version without markings and I replace it with a B or C controller and there is a B5 valve spring, just remove it and you can install a newer controller, can't the old controller be replaced with a newer one? Greetings from Poland :)
You don't have to replace the computer when changing the valve body. If you are going to change the valve body it is recommended to use the C Code. You will need to change the wiring harness as well because the solenoid connectors will no longer reach the solenoids. However the B5 spring configuration is in the old valve body, make it that in the new and your computer strategy will work with it.
I have the oldest valve body without a spring. valve bodies after 2004 with the letter B have a spring, and valve bodies with the letter C always have a spring. Will the valve body work well for me if I remove and remove the spring? My car is Renault Laguna 3.0v6 2002 thank you for your reply.
Your a PRO man! You always keep cool and patiënt, no cursing no bad vocabulary! Not a wonder, you believe in God and read "bible". You must have a Lucky wife with all that patience. Nice video's. Keep up the good work. I also want to ask what the differences are between the aw 55-50 and 55-51 and what are the differnces betreden a AW55 from volvo, Gm, renault and ford?
Thanks. Don't think too highly of me, I have my moments. Don't have as much patience as I used to. Still a work in progress. Got to keep it clean my grandson likes to watch my videos, would anyways don't want to corrupt any young minds. I'm the lucky one. As far as the kit and soft parts goes it is the same. Hard parts( tooth counts), S2 solenoid and whether it has the spring behind the valve, external coolers and such is where the differences are going to be. Never knew it came in a Ford , so I looked it up and sure enough it comes in a Kuga. We will probably never see one here in the States, Renault either so I don't know for sure, they have never mentioned it at any seminar I have been to, but that may because the odds of us seeing one are so low.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission OK thanx, that explains a lot about the grandchilderen. I want in the near future rebuild my aw55-51sn wich is mounted on a Volvo xc70 2003 model, it starts to jurk when i'm going from 3 to 2 to 1, that care is situated in Morocco (first country in the world to Recognise the USA). And i have a second xc70 from 2006 with the TF80SC AWD wich starts to "hit" in 4th and sometimes 6th gear, so i think a need to change or repair the solenoids. I bought recently a transmision from a Peugeot 406 wich is also a TF80SC (with the external cooler) i want to check if it has the same valvebody. If not i just change te solenoids. This last xc70 is situated in Belgium (capital of Europe) So you see, you have fans all over the world.
I have a Volvo with this trans in it, it's starting to shudder really bad with anything over half throttle. I'm assuming the clutch plates are wore out? Anyways I love the car so I'm going to have it rebuilt, what's your opinion on the Sonnax "shift improvement kit" for this trans? Is it worth the $200?
My advise is to take that 200 and put it towards a new valve body. I have done all of the kits available even the ones to rebuild the solenoids. New is the best. You can buy a VB from Chevy and change the S2 solenoid and check the spring on the B5 valve like I show in the video and save you some bucks. Part number is either in the description or comments on one of the videos I have done for this trans, there are several I have done. Before you condemn the transmission make sure you are not dealing with a misfire in the engine.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for the good advice. I thought it might be a misfire but I figured that would throw a code, I put the scanner on it and didn't come up with anything. The trans fluid was pretty brown too. I'll go over the ignition system this weekend just to double check.
They don't always throw a code. If the fluid is brown do not try and change it. That is usually and indication of running hot for a long time and usually the fluid has never been changed. If you end up rebuilding it look close at the cooler warmer if it has it or the radiator if it goes through that instead.
Hi Tom. I have this transmission in my Volvo all-wheel-drive XC 90. It has 260,000 miles on it. Seems to be shifting and doing just fine. Do you think that is amazing for this transmission? It is the five cylinder turbo.
Yes it will. You can buy the valve body from GM as it is cheaper. You will get a B or C code so if you have a earlier VB than that you will need to change the harness as well. Plus there is a different solenoid from the Chevy to Volvo and I show you which solenoid to change in the video and which valve to check for the spring. If yours had it make sure the new VB does and if not make sure it doesn't. I believe the part number from GM unless they have changed it is 24228787, it is posted in the questions on this video or the other one I did.
24228787 if they have not changed it. Don't forget to change the S2 solenoid out if this is not going on a GM. Also you will probably be getting a C letter valve body so if you have an early no letter or an A you will need the late wiring harness. If it is a B you should be fine.
Every shops labor rate is different, but if that is labor to pull it, build it and re-install it, that sounds about right. Add parts on top of that and should be in the 3-3500 range and that is about what they cost, to do it right.
Hello Tom, I have the nissan altima version to this transmission, i had it rebuilt 1 to 3 when in fine, no 4 to 5. Not has it rebuilt for a 2nd time mechanic said the clutch pack needed shiming .. now all gears go in but its stuck in 5th. Any ideas?
![Как устроены швейные машинки? [Veritasium]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FFW0GcMCgd0/mqdefault.jpg)
Tom, you are a man of great skill who can obviously just be rebuilding transmissions, but the fact that you take the time to film it and explain what (and why) you are doing is truly a gift. Thank you for taking the time to post this, I learned a lot!
Thank You. Thanks for watching.
este señor no deja nada a la suerte es un excelente maestro cambia hasta la pieza más pequeña está pendiente de todo gracias maestro
I joined patreon. When I went to tech school the smell when you walked in the building, the grease, the chemicals, it just smelled like heaven to me.
@@vernonbosshard9317 Thanks for supporting the channel. I was the same when I was young. Enjoy it while you can. After awhile you get used to it and no longer can smell it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I'm 60, that time is near
@vernonbosshard9317 So am. I.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I forgot to say, on this Equinox unit, when I did the motor work I removed the wiring from the transmission, I forgot and left one conn off, when I started it put it in D it hit HARD as HELL, it actually broke the rear trans mount, so might be some bad damage inside. How do you replace a bushing in one, do I need a special driver?
hello. Does it apply to Chevrolet epica 2009? Thank you
Thank you and for providing resources such as this to us , enabling and educating a gift you giving to take the time to document and video this , will be using this to try rebuild my volvo xc 70 trans
Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
Greetings from Colombia . I congratulate you for your work and it is very professional of your part to help people with their doubts ... many successes for you.
Thanks
I got the rebuild PDF and I'll join your patreon channel. Plus I'm going to watch this about 50 times.
Hope it helps. Thanks for watching.
Old, ill-tempered curmudgeon SAVED MY A$$!!! 40 years experience, M.E. degree, ATSG manual but it still helps to see how some of these epicyclic gear trains stack up. THANKS FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO. I actually believe I put it together correctly!!! Got to play harness games for the new GM valve body (another hot tip, thanks). Got some new one-piece bushings in there, the strongest LocTite (638 with time&temp cure, 4ksi shear) in a slightly worn case and maybe the Volvo can go another 200K. If you are considering this, there is a reason these (V70) cars get scrapped when the trans fails. Unless you are a glutton for punishment, WALK AWAY! Your looking at the rubber, friction, bushings, more bushings, bevel gear sleeve and seals, rear main, turbo tube with heater, an engine mount or two or 5, harness or rework, valve body, one solenoid, oils (3309, engine) and coolant, 20+ hours BEFORE you can do the adaptations, etc. I am sure I left out a bunch of stuff....exhaust parts and gaskets, maybe fix up the drive shaft, god knows how hard it's gonna be to get the gearbox and bevel gear back in there, it barely came out. Cooler seals and clips, magic hydraulic+cable engine mount in rear, had the torque converter reworked. I paid $1000 or the car and did timing belt, drove 40-50K miles and lost planet bushing. Now, if I succeed, I'll have $6K in car hopefully I get another 100K mi min. I am assuming labor is $100 and I think probably 25hrs so far. I think trans parts and valve body are over $1000-$1200. The little volvo-specific parts really ruin the deal. For all this effort I could probably have shoved an LS-swapped, Cayenne drivetrain under it. Then it would at least have ended up interesting.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching. Hope it works well for you.
Excelente video de mucha ayuda muchísimas gracias eres grande amigo bendiciones
Saludos desde Manzanillo, Colima, México
Thank you, thanks for watching.
My Equinox is AWD, the Trans case pass side output bearing race is pitted pretty bad, I bought 2 used units both were worse, not sure why that bearing race gets eaten up on all of them, but I have look into replacement and I believe you need to set up the gear lash on it with shims. I don't know, At the moment it does not make any noise and runs smoothly. The fluid GM recommends is some pricey stuff too.
Yes, they are bad about wear. The shim is under the race. So far mine have come out correct. I use the factory bearing. Fluid is pricey but it works the best with it. Bearing 24279804 Race 24279803
Hello uncle Tom
Greetings from turkey
I'll fix my own aw55-51s by watching you
I hope I will succeed
❤❤🎉🎉
Hope all goes well. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Hi tom
assembly is finished.
drive pressure too late
reverse clutch leak
can you help
I took every step following you
@@mertkanozen9380 What do you mean by drive pressure is late? And I assume you mean reverse is slipping? Did you replace the valve body with a new one?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Movement occurs after 5 seconds in position d. Reverse gear is missing. The unit has not changed. I just cleaned the valve body and replaced the filter.
The delay can be caused by the valve body, no reverse also. I have never seen a valve body that was not worn out. It is best to use new from the dealer. Could be you made a mistake in the valve body. You didn't rebuild the unit while you were in there?@@mertkanozen9380
Gracias por el video amigo. Estuvo excelente
Thanks
It was soo helpful for me thank you soo much ser great video
Thanks, thank you for watching.
you are a king❤
Wish I was. The world would be a lot different place, lol. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video! You're the only one on UA-cam who has a rebuild (2 of them actually, thanks!) all others are tear downs only. I bought the Transtec seal kit. can only find a name brand friction kit by Exedy EFK-123. looks like Raybestos discontinued their RCP96-026. Who do you like for frictions? Many thanks!
Thanks, Exedy are ok. Yes they are made by Raybestos and for some reason you cannot find certain frictions for certain transmissions except for the Exedy brand. That has just happened within the last few years. Like I said they are fine but you can see the difference in the material. I prefer Raybestos or Borg Warner. Thanks for watching.
I like the cheese wiz style sealant.
Expensive but good.
Thank you so much. This was very helpful!
I'm glad, thanks for watching.
Thanks Tom I highly appreciated your efforts, I had same transmission, number 4 gear always slip than engaged, if there's any help
Probably a worn out valve body.
Liked the video, thanks for sharing. I have a couple general questions:
When replacing the frictions, do you also burnish the steels or leave them be?
Do you flush the transmission cooler or replace?
Leave them be. Not a fan of sanding them. If it comes to that point I would replace them with new ones. We have a flusher that heats up to operating temperature with transmission fluid in it. Works very well. If you don't have that. It would be a judgement call on the damage. Very hard to get it clean just using that can flush or mineral spirits and air. If it was real bad, replace it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks!
Sería bueno que considerará traducirlo por favor
Don't have that kind of time and am not fluent in the language. Thanks for watching.
nice video, great job!!!
Thanks
Hi Mr tom. Thank you so much for posting these vids for us. I'm Fascinated by transmissions and have tore into a couple. Please answer a question. My af33 has no engagement in any gear even though the range shaft is moving with the shift cable. Short of the detent spring being broken or misaligned, will a stuck closed slt valve cause no line pressure? Any thoughts? I did get various tranny codes but they went away and didn't return after they were cleared. That's why I'm suspecting the broken detent issue over sticking solenoids. Thank you in advance.
If it is not pumping fluid I would say there is something wrong with the filter or pump. If it is, then either the linkage is not attached, valve body problem or problem in the unit.
Thanks Tom! So one has to take the hole thing apart just to replace the filter? That's insane.
Front case and pump and then you can replace it.
Buen video amigo k funsion ase el selenoide negro el de los grandes en la transmisión saludos
Some of this got lost in translation, I think.
Hello. I need to change the oil sump gasket. I am afraid that this silicone gasket get loose and clog the filter or some solenoid, how to prevent this? Or there is no issue?
No issue. They come from the factory with silicone. Just use a good grade, Loctite598, EVO300, Ultra Grey or Ultra Black. You can buy a gasket, but they tend to leak.
LA unica fallita sepuede poner la bomba sin ponerla de medio lado Gracias colega desde COLOMBIA
Yes, I know you can. I have less trouble with it on it's side. Thanks for watching.
estoy aprendiendo ..tenkio
Thanks for watching.
i was looking for the trans filter location
58:34
So I have an equinox and the cooler lines got crimped in a wreck and went undetected, when I got it it was pretty burned up, I drained the fluid, fixed the cooler line, fluid was black, now 500 miles later it started whining and lost all the gears, drained and filled and got the gears back for few mins, repeated two more times before I gave up. Assume the filter is clogged up, anything I can do to get a few more miles out of it before I get it rebuilt? Any way to get the crud out of the filter or do you think the valve body is plugged now? Right now it doesn't whine but has no gears.
Unfortunately no, time for a rebuild.
Can't afford to have a shop rebuild my kids equinox, so I thought about if I could do it myself. After watching your video im really confident that I can. What is the assembly lube are you using with the brush. I ordered the green stuff already. Thanks for the confidence and held. Great video to follow
Thanks. Gold, no longer available. Thinnest now is red, then blue then green. Good luck on your build. Thanks for watching.
sweet god in heaven theirs no way a turn a wrench guy could do this !! id like to pay money and never have the PTSD this causes me ..
Great help from your video!! Better than any manuals!! Which silicon do you use from loctite? Thanks
Thanks. Loctite 598.
thanks for the info and part number for the valve body. I'm putting it in a Volvo and you had stated you need to replace S2 solenoid, would you know the part number for said solenoid. the valve body I received was a B stamped body.
From Transtar the number is 89421C. As long as you did not have a no code or an A your wiring harness will work, also don't forget to check whether or not it has that spring under the valve on your old valve body and make sure the new one is the same. You should have a good working unit now. Reset the adapts if you have the capability. Do not be surprised if your first few shifts are really crappy. Should relearn pretty fast though.
Anyway to see the filter from the cooler line connection?
No, you have to take the case halves apart.
thank you so much
You're welcome!
Do the remaned valve body solenoids need to be adjusted once in the trans? line pressure and shift pressure...
I don't use reman valve bodies on these. IMHO they are not worth it. Do yourself a favor and use New.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionThe entire transmission is remaned.
You should not have to adjust them. You do need to reset the adaptives and relearn the shifts.
gracias por el video
Thanks for watching.
Hello, I have a Chevrolet Captiva 2007 model, a six-piston engine, 3.2 liters of petrol. I have a problem when I am driving the car and the engine temperature is in the normal mode and at a slow speed, there is a jingle and a ticking sound, especially when changing the first and second gears also in reverse. The gearbox oil was changed and the problem persisted. Is it because of the body of the valve or the problem of sensors?
Hello Tom, whats your cost to rebuild the nissan vision of this transmission?
I don't handle the pricing side and have not been involved in that side of it for a long time. The price of parts has become high as with everything else nowadays. Cost is all going to be relative to the damage as well. A guess on my part, I would say mid 3000 to low 4000's. But that is just a guess.
Can I have the detailed documentation of the aw55-51 gearbox, please?
Sorry, I don't have a manual for it.
Great video
Thanks
Ever had a situation where your lube brush bristles ended up in transmission and ya had to redo?
No. Don't get me wrong they do come out every once in a while. But I keep a close eye out for it.
after over houl metric loss position D and R type AW55-50SN guess what the cause is?
? Miss the manual valve?
Can i ask if what is the part number for the driveshaft seal of this af33 tranny? It is because my tranny is leaking now on the right side. TIA
@@kotoamatsukami26 Not sure. There are about 5 different ones. They are specific to the type of vehicle and which side.
Thank you so much for the video. It is excellent! I have a question, is it ok to buy a remanufactured valve body on ebay? Or a new one is the only way to save the situation? Thank you!
Thanks. I have tried several of the reman ones from different suppliers. I have even bought the reamers and done them myself as well as rebuilding the solenoids. You got about a 50-50 shot of it working. Then you have to argue with the reman place to give you another one. Plus the time you spend on it. You may have to do that several times. I have had 5 in a row not work before. Not worth it to me. Buy a new one and it will work.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you so much for sharing your experience.
Hola! Nos podría dar el link de los repuestos de la AW55-50 🙏
Links to the parts suppliers are in the description.
Добрый день, подскажите пожалуйста, как вытащить или достать поршни из муфты этой трансмиссии, я снял стопорное кольцо но поршень осень плотно сидит в муфте. Муфта тормозной ленты.
Place any drum the piston will not come out on the piece that feeds it oil, blow air in the port and the piston will pop out.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Проблема в том что когда муфта демонтирована, туда не получается подать воздух, но я справился. Блогодаря своему опыту. Спасибо за ответ. 👍
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Подскажите пожалуйста, у меня есть проблема. Гидроблоке есть два шарика один резиновый и один металл, какой из них куда ставиться. В технической документации нет такой информации.
Good job mate please can you tell me how many letters you need to put after your install this gearBox
Thanks, somewhere around 7.3L.
Como se pide el kit de reconstruccion de una transmisión automática volvo s60 2003?
We get most of our parts from WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description. Buy Transtec with Raybestos clutches.
Hi. If I have the oldest version without markings and I replace it with a B or C controller and there is a B5 valve spring, just remove it and you can install a newer controller, can't the old controller be replaced with a newer one? Greetings from Poland :)
You don't have to replace the computer when changing the valve body. If you are going to change the valve body it is recommended to use the C Code. You will need to change the wiring harness as well because the solenoid connectors will no longer reach the solenoids. However the B5 spring configuration is in the old valve body, make it that in the new and your computer strategy will work with it.
I have the oldest valve body without a spring. valve bodies after 2004 with the letter B have a spring, and valve bodies with the letter C always have a spring. Will the valve body work well for me if I remove and remove the spring? My car is Renault Laguna 3.0v6 2002 thank you for your reply.
Yes
Hola, la transmisión aw-5550-sn es la misma para todas las marcas?
There are different ratios. Using different planetaries and differentials and transfer gears.
Do the output axle shaft seals go in until they bottom out?
I drive them in until they are about .100 past the rounded edge of the shaft.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thats where I put it, made sense. And no leaks. Its a strange one.
Your a PRO man! You always keep cool and patiënt, no cursing no bad vocabulary! Not a wonder, you believe in God and read "bible". You must have a Lucky wife with all that patience. Nice video's. Keep up the good work. I also want to ask what the differences are between the aw 55-50 and 55-51 and what are the differnces betreden a AW55 from volvo, Gm, renault and ford?
Thanks. Don't think too highly of me, I have my moments. Don't have as much patience as I used to. Still a work in progress. Got to keep it clean my grandson likes to watch my videos, would anyways don't want to corrupt any young minds. I'm the lucky one. As far as the kit and soft parts goes it is the same. Hard parts( tooth counts), S2 solenoid and whether it has the spring behind the valve, external coolers and such is where the differences are going to be. Never knew it came in a Ford , so I looked it up and sure enough it comes in a Kuga. We will probably never see one here in the States, Renault either so I don't know for sure, they have never mentioned it at any seminar I have been to, but that may because the odds of us seeing one are so low.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission OK thanx, that explains a lot about the grandchilderen. I want in the near future rebuild my aw55-51sn wich is mounted on a Volvo xc70 2003 model, it starts to jurk when i'm going from 3 to 2 to 1, that care is situated in Morocco (first country in the world to Recognise the USA). And i have a second xc70 from 2006 with the TF80SC AWD wich starts to "hit" in 4th and sometimes 6th gear, so i think a need to change or repair the solenoids. I bought recently a transmision from a Peugeot 406 wich is also a TF80SC (with the external cooler) i want to check if it has the same valvebody. If not i just change te solenoids. This last xc70 is situated in Belgium (capital of Europe) So you see, you have fans all over the world.
@@abourawaaha8399 Both sound like valve body and or solenoid problems. I appreciate all of you.
Great video i rebuild it thanks!!!!
No problem 👍
I have a Volvo with this trans in it, it's starting to shudder really bad with anything over half throttle. I'm assuming the clutch plates are wore out? Anyways I love the car so I'm going to have it rebuilt, what's your opinion on the Sonnax "shift improvement kit" for this trans? Is it worth the $200?
My advise is to take that 200 and put it towards a new valve body. I have done all of the kits available even the ones to rebuild the solenoids. New is the best. You can buy a VB from Chevy and change the S2 solenoid and check the spring on the B5 valve like I show in the video and save you some bucks. Part number is either in the description or comments on one of the videos I have done for this trans, there are several I have done. Before you condemn the transmission make sure you are not dealing with a misfire in the engine.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for the good advice. I thought it might be a misfire but I figured that would throw a code, I put the scanner on it and didn't come up with anything. The trans fluid was pretty brown too. I'll go over the ignition system this weekend just to double check.
They don't always throw a code. If the fluid is brown do not try and change it. That is usually and indication of running hot for a long time and usually the fluid has never been changed. If you end up rebuilding it look close at the cooler warmer if it has it or the radiator if it goes through that instead.
Hi Tom. I have this transmission in my Volvo all-wheel-drive XC 90. It has 260,000 miles on it. Seems to be shifting and doing just fine. Do you think that is amazing for this transmission?
It is the five cylinder turbo.
Doing quite well. Whatever you are doing, keep doing it.
Will the valvebody from a GM interchange with a Nissan or Volvo? If so what type of GM vehicle has this transmission?
Yes it will. You can buy the valve body from GM as it is cheaper. You will get a B or C code so if you have a earlier VB than that you will need to change the harness as well. Plus there is a different solenoid from the Chevy to Volvo and I show you which solenoid to change in the video and which valve to check for the spring. If yours had it make sure the new VB does and if not make sure it doesn't. I believe the part number from GM unless they have changed it is 24228787, it is posted in the questions on this video or the other one I did.
No te faltó una rondana en el porta planetario
This did not come out in the translator. I do not understand the question.
Wipe the mating surfaces that use sealant with brake clean first.
do you have a part number for the GM valve body?
24228787 if they have not changed it. Don't forget to change the S2 solenoid out if this is not going on a GM. Also you will probably be getting a C letter valve body so if you have an early no letter or an A you will need the late wiring harness. If it is a B you should be fine.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks
Mr Transmission told me labor cost $1,600. For my 2001 V70 XC.
Every shops labor rate is different, but if that is labor to pull it, build it and re-install it, that sounds about right. Add parts on top of that and should be in the 3-3500 range and that is about what they cost, to do it right.
el maestro es muy capacitado lo que no se ve muy claro cuando está armando los drones o los tambores
Hello Tom, I have the nissan altima version to this transmission, i had it rebuilt 1 to 3 when in fine, no 4 to 5. Not has it rebuilt for a 2nd time mechanic said the clutch pack needed shiming .. now all gears go in but its stuck in 5th. Any ideas?
Need to know what the codes are that are stored in the computer.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission No transmission code, but a pending camshaft position sensor.. can this be the issue?
Yes, it will. There are 2 sensors. P0340 is bank 1, P0345 is bank 2. The crankshaft or either of the camshaft sensors will put it in 5th gear.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you, I will check those and let you know the outcome.
Good video Tom. Not my favorite trans. Don't see many.
Thanks. I see a handful a year. Work fine as long as you pop for the new valve body.
how different is this from the aw55-51sn that chevy and nissan use? maybe it's the same trans? EDIT: think it's the same trans!
As far as how to rebuild it, basically one. There a few different ratios. Different planets, drums, etc.. But it is put together the same.