I appreciate that despite having a very suitable spindle sander to clean up those parts with, you did the job with the random orbital sander to show how to make use of limited tools, especially the ones you prescribed in your weekend woodworker course. You're dedication to newbie woodworkers like me is appreciated. We can't all build vertical bandsaws and pantorouters just yet!
Love your videos Steve. Just started last year at 60 and you have shown me how to build a cross cut sled , push block and push stick as well as countless tips. You make things seem achievable to beginners where others confuse you. Teaching is an art in itself
When you drill the two holes in the cleats, you could stack them up and gang drill so that the holes are all in the same location. That way if you replace a cleat, the holes will line up with the existing holes in the 2x4.
I saw a post in a page on FB to make the spray-on template easier to remove without the glue afterwards. Put down some blue masking tape on the wood, then spray-on the glue, then the tape comes right off without the issue of the glue stuck to the wood. Thanks for the video Steve, love the channel and all your instruction!
Watching posts like these help me think before spending money unnecessarily. Good idea nice and simple. My version is a bit different but I never would of made my push block if I hadn’t watched this.
I made mine last night. Only took about an hour to make both the push stick and the block. I love that it's just a piece of 2x4, and I don't have to worry that I'm cutting through a $60 Griprrrr. When it gets chewed up, just replace it with another chunk of 2x4, and you're good to go. Thanks for the plans, Steve!
Thank you so much for this simple push block build. I knew that I was in need of one to be safe, but I didn't want to drop $50 or $60 dollars at the store. Love the simplicity and will thank you every time I keep my digits safe! I'll be making one first thing tomorrow morning 😊
Thank you for not having a giant corporate tool sponsor and a huge production workshop, you are keeping it real for the small guy like me and yet I found your router lift table on the Woodsmith thru shop notes and I backtracked it to find you.Stay real your amount of subscribers tells me that. I live in South Florida and the lack of hardwood suppliers is very very limited. Regard’s, Mark
I just finished my push block and it works better than the $40 I bought. I cut one 8 by 2.5 by 3/4 inches wood board for the flat part, adding two 8 by 3/4 by 3/4 to inches to secure the handle side by side, which I also cut from the same wood board. My handle was 6 1/2 by 2 1/2 by 3/4 inches and modeled the same as yours. Been new to woodworking, it took me have a day to finish it, using a Japanese saw and putting it together with wood glue. I finished the top part using sanding paper and stained it. For the bottom part, I used a 2x4x10 inches piece of lumber, which will be replaced as often as needed. Next project is going to be a cross cut sled, which you also have a video for. Thank you for an excellent video.
You can always mark a line around the 2x4 base as a warning for the screw depth. It's easy to forget to lower your blade, like when you switch from cutting a thick board to a thin one. The "warning line" on the sides of the push block may help you remember, or at least give you peace of mind knowing you're still in the "safe zone".
I'll use the height he used in the video for reference. But would there not be more time of the teeth being free of wood underneath the table surface? Thus allowing more time spent in the air for Cooling? Freud also recommends to buy Freud blades.
I've always heard that you should set the height to the bottom of the gullet so it can clear the sawdust. There's also an argument to be made that a higher blade height makes the cut closer to perpendicular to the wood making a cleaner cut. So many opinions on this one!
@@jhersk yeah that’s what I’ve learned as well. It makes for a cleaner and safer cut. Something about less chance of kickback due to the angle of attack of the teeth.
I was actually in the midst of buying a mitre saw, but after watching your video on ‘table saw or mitre saw’, I’ve decided ( planing) on the table saw now. Tq so much also for the simple push block plans. God Bless.
I’ve made several kinds of push blocks over the years, but I really like your handle! So, your design has become my choice now. One item that I found very useful are aluminum screws. My hardware store carries them-and I use them for jigs, etc. they will NOT harm a blade if you make a mistake.
Steve ur the best. I built this and now i use it more that the micro jig because of the cleat in the back. Not worried about it gtting cut because they can be replaced so easily, not the case with Gripper
I don't know how I missed this series, but I love it. It's like the old you, back again. For the push bloc, you probably got another suggestion, but I would have thought wood dowels instead of the screws. But, you are right. I keep my blade so close to the top of the wood, I would never hit them. Thanks for the videos and the instructions.
Yet another tidbit of knowledge to make my workshop safer and affordable. Thank you for passing on all of your experience in a relatable and entertaining way, it has made me a better weekend woodworker.
As a novice and weekend warrior, I almost exclusively use this type of push block -- with sand paper glued on the bottom. I haven't noticed any significant dulling of the blade other than what you would normally get. It gets your hand away from the blade, gives you more control, tends to keep both pieces separate and reminds you to push all they way through helping to prevent kickback.
Greeting from Johannesburg - South Africa - you sir are a champion and a leader amongst men. I almost went to buy a Jig when I remembered this video .... R300 for the block and R79 for the stick .... but now I can make my own from scraps ... and buy a Glue Bottle.... Thank you for the Plans
I freaking love this dude! Whenever I have questions about anything woodworking related, when I search youtube, this dude made a video with the answers I need already.
As always, simple sound advice. Thanks. I have a no frills push block that I literally spent 5 minutes making, that now desperately needs to be replaced with something better. I like your design.
May I add a thank you for your time, Steve. I have used a push stick for most of my work. Woodworking for over 60 years I have seen a lot of things I liked and one that sticks out in my memory is that plastic gripper thang, seems like to me it is a bit over priced and I have been watching different folks on youtube such as you make these push blocks. My first one was almost exactly like this video portrays and it still works, so keep you your honest and often humorous work up.I did not have a table saw the first few years but I got too lazy to use my worm gear Skil and bought one from Sears Roebuck.
As a new weekend woodworker I threw together a push block like this a long time ago. When I started learning more I bought a much better saw and after seeing every MicroJig promo on Steve’s videos I bought one. I love my microjig, but I find myself using my home made push block more often.
I had an old plaster float lying around I never use I just screwed that to a piece of 2" x 6" and added a 1/4" pieces of ply as the cleat. Works real well and I am paranoid about keeping my hands away from the blades
Just got a new shop saw after 30 years away from the hobby. I made one of these in a couple hours and used a dado for the little catch block instead of screws in the back. Works great and I can rip away with confidence.... Thanks for a great video Sir 👍👍
I made one of these last week and used it on my first project. It was really easy and worked perfectly. I had way better cuts and felt a lot safer making them. Thank you. Your videos have given me tons of valuable information.
I'd add some anti skid to the base, or even sandpaper, I'm just anti skids biggest fan! I have it on my push sticks, push blocks, vice jaws, shooting board, a random square on my bench for when sanding etc!! I keep the guys in business!
Safety tip!! I'm pretty sure I remember you noting it in past videos, but thought it might be good to mention again. When applying and maintaining pressure in the three directions, downward, forward, and toward the fence, the pressure applied toward fence should only be applied before the blade as pushing the wood against the blade will pinch the blade possibly causing kickback and burning of the wood.
Love the push block. I changed one thing. I made the handle from a 2x4 same shape , but extended lenght ,making a flat on each side to allow it to be screwed in 2x4 base. Save me from having to cut 3/4 groove
Because of your video on building a simple sled I now have one and I love it. Also, applying pressure in 3 directions is the key to using a table saw and I TY for teaching me that. The simplified style you present in your videos has helped so many of us . TY Gonna make a push block today!
As an alternative to your design (as well as the micro jig) is just a 5 inch or so length of 2x4 with a 1/2 inch thick piece of wood glued to the bottom for a cleat. Fits well in the hand and gets thrown away after time as the saw cuts through the body and cleat when cutting small pieces.
I bought a Grrr-Ripper after I saw you use one. It is a fantastic tool. I have since seen people produce plans to make them out of wood, I'm sure, partly because they are pretty expensive. This is an excellent alternative to the more expensive options out there. Simple is best, in my opinion. After some use, a person could easily hot rod this thing to be whatever they want. Thanks!
Perfect timing. I just got my first table saw. I signed up for two of your courses last year and have been saving up. This will be my first project with the saw. I sure didn’t want to spend $50 on a gripper. Thanks Steve for all you teach us.
Love this, thank you for the PDF, I've been meaning to make a push stick & block forever but I just "keep pushing my luck". I'm not using my saw again until I make these, I kinda like my fingers!
Oh Yay! Ive been looking forward to this video ever since you mentioned you were working on a “jig series” a few videos back. Can’t wait to see what you come up with next! 🖤
Great video. I use a similar block made from a 2x4 or 2x6 on its side without a handle and I always use a feather board, ever where possible, to keep the wood pressed against the fence.
Yes to using a 2x6 on edge. You can cut a small chunk out of it to leave a "cleat" on the end or glue on a bit of scrap. Super-duper simple. Steve's video has the advantage of teaching some workshop techniques and the resulting GRRABBER looks more like a tool than a piece of scrap. So it's all good.
Your videos and instruction to help aspiring woodworkers like me are much appreciated. Just finished building my first cross cut sled. On to the push block. Thanks for sharing.
OK Steve if they want to do it fine the blade only needs to be as high as the wood is ther been said thks again for sharing your project with us keep them coming ya got this
I like the idea of using some very thin soft grippy material on the bottom of the push block for better grip reducing the chance of slipping. At the same time I don’t want my saw blade hitting this material so I would recommend just putting a couple of 1 inch strips on the edge of the push block leaving the middle portion of the push block free of the blade hitting it while still benefiting by getting a better grip. Very good video really enjoyed it, many thanks.
Great, easy and inexpensive jig. I wanted one of those safer jigs for my table saw but the price! This is nice. I built mine using a 2x4 and a gate handle I had laying around. Used 4 one inch screws. Works well. Thanks again.
Great pushblock, thanks. It keeps the workpiece DOWN and FORWARD, and I'd suggest a featherboard addition to push into the fence. That way, all you do is push forward/down and it's one less thing to watch. I have to keep my actions simple minded.
Thank You!!! I just retired and getting into woodworking. I was preparing to buy push blocks and came across the video. After viewing the video and looking around your work shop I will no longer purchase ANYTHING I can build.
12:20 The actual operating manual of my table saw has this to say about the depth setting: "Make sure the top three teeth of the blade are just breaking through the upper surface of the workpiece when sawing. This will ensure that the maximum number of teeth are removing material at any given time, thus giving optimum performance." And that is exactly the 'shallow' depth setting Steve demonstrates at 9:40 or so.
I have always used two push stick and found it quite awkward, I did realise there were alternatives like the micro jig thing that you use (not sponsored) I never saw any sellers with anything like that here in the UK (I hadn't really looked much. Even though I know that in woodwork everything but the blade can be made from wood, it never occurred to me to make something like that. Thank you, I shall make one in the morning (it's 11.30pm local time).
Love the idea. One could glue some dowels in the holes, instead of using screws. I will probably use my home/custom made slip tenon jig to create all of the slots, instead of using dowels, because it gives more surface area than dowels, but it is the same principle. Thanks for sharing Steve!
I love your channel, I inherited all my grandpa's wood working tools and he did teach me a little before he passed away but I've learned a lot from your content, so thank you!
Thanks for the content, I’m stuck in quarantine, with covid, with all my woodworking quarantine due to being in the midst of moving to a dedicated shop AND 3 car garage! I can’t wait to get my French cleats made and do some projects like this!!!!
It's just a push stick. No need to over engineer. Great design making one next. Wasn't sure why you had the end offset until the end on vid makes alot of sense just flip the piece over and you've got a new stop. Thanks Keep It Simple Stupid are usually the best designs and functionality. I'm not afraid of the screws you would really have to be cutting in REAL DEEP into a push block. FANTASTIC.
I've been wanting a push block for about a month now. But I haven't yet made it only because I knew this video was coming! Now, I have no excuses left!
Excellent video. I am a complete newbie woodworker about to buy my first table saw and that scares me actually as i have deep respect for that kind of tool. You kept it as simple as possible but still made a functional tool out of it. Thanks :-)
I just watched your video the other day and was thinking of making one and then I was cleaning out my shop and notice that a drywall hand sander fits perfect on a 2 by 4 and all someone would have to do is attach the handle on the 2 by 4 and put the cleat on. Im going to give a try and see how well it works
Hi Steve, I know you probably don't see comments on old videos, but I've started working my way through Weekend Workshop as I get my garage space under control. I started with a RIO and I noticed the offcuts of 1x4 leave perfect wood for this push stick and push block. Not sure if that was intended or if there's a reason it's a bad idea, but it seemed convenient, especially as I haven't figured out how I'm going to transport plywood in my Prius.
The biggest consideration of that push block I was was the bottom of a 2x4 is not that flat, and would also be a little slick, not providing enough grab on the board to keep pressure of the board sideways towards the fence as you cut... planeing the bottom of the 2x4 and maybe attaching some sandpaper along the ends might be a great idea.
Steve should make his own microjig intro with his push block, that would be awesome
I realy miss those adds 😉
Strangely, it’s what I was expecting when the video first started. 😂😂
@@honzaburianek2317Me too
Those ads were peak WWMM
Woodworking is so plagued by over complicating things. Thank you for always keeping it simple and getting the job done!
I appreciate that despite having a very suitable spindle sander to clean up those parts with, you did the job with the random orbital sander to show how to make use of limited tools, especially the ones you prescribed in your weekend woodworker course. You're dedication to newbie woodworkers like me is appreciated. We can't all build vertical bandsaws and pantorouters just yet!
Agreed
@Dan R Yes, I thought the exact same thing. Much appreciated.
Yes! Gotta be honest here, though...I'm Googling "pantorouters" now. XD
Love your videos Steve. Just started last year at 60 and you have shown me how to build a cross cut sled , push block and push stick as well as countless tips. You make things seem achievable to beginners where others confuse you. Teaching is an art in itself
One thing I did was glue some no slip material on the bottom of the push block and it helps. Got it from the dollar store and used spray glue.
When you drill the two holes in the cleats, you could stack them up and gang drill so that the holes are all in the same location. That way if you replace a cleat, the holes will line up with the existing holes in the 2x4.
Gang drill............sounds sexy.
@@imacracker515 Ew... no it doesn't
Good suggestion!
Glad I read the comments before posting. I was thinking the same thing!
I saw a post in a page on FB to make the spray-on template easier to remove without the glue afterwards. Put down some blue masking tape on the wood, then spray-on the glue, then the tape comes right off without the issue of the glue stuck to the wood. Thanks for the video Steve, love the channel and all your instruction!
I made one of these last winter. I think it’s about time to replace the 2x4 base and the foot. Great design and cheap to build and maintain.
Watching posts like these help me think before spending money unnecessarily.
Good idea nice and simple.
My version is a bit different but I never would of made my push block if I hadn’t watched this.
K.I.S., the more I learn about woodworking, the more I appreciate K.I.S. Good stuff Steve, thanks.
I made mine last night. Only took about an hour to make both the push stick and the block. I love that it's just a piece of 2x4, and I don't have to worry that I'm cutting through a $60 Griprrrr. When it gets chewed up, just replace it with another chunk of 2x4, and you're good to go. Thanks for the plans, Steve!
Thank you so much for this simple push block build. I knew that I was in need of one to be safe, but I didn't want to drop $50 or $60 dollars at the store. Love the simplicity and will thank you every time I keep my digits safe! I'll be making one first thing tomorrow morning 😊
Thank you for not having a giant corporate tool sponsor and a huge production workshop, you are keeping it real for the small guy like me and yet I found your router lift table on the Woodsmith thru shop notes and I backtracked it to find you.Stay real your amount of subscribers tells me that. I live in South Florida and the lack of hardwood suppliers is very very limited. Regard’s, Mark
I just finished my push block and it works better than the $40 I bought. I cut one 8 by 2.5 by 3/4 inches wood board for the flat part, adding two 8 by 3/4 by 3/4 to inches to secure the handle side by side, which I also cut from the same wood board. My handle was 6 1/2 by 2 1/2 by 3/4 inches and modeled the same as yours.
Been new to woodworking, it took me have a day to finish it, using a Japanese saw and putting it together with wood glue. I finished the top part using sanding paper and stained it. For the bottom part, I used a 2x4x10 inches piece of lumber, which will be replaced as often as needed.
Next project is going to be a cross cut sled, which you also have a video for. Thank you for an excellent video.
You can always mark a line around the 2x4 base as a warning for the screw depth. It's easy to forget to lower your blade, like when you switch from cutting a thick board to a thin one. The "warning line" on the sides of the push block may help you remember, or at least give you peace of mind knowing you're still in the "safe zone".
That's exactly what I did
Freud recommends the blade be high enough for the tooth to clear the top of the work piece.
This allows the teeth to vent their heat out and will allow for a clean cut and longer lasting blade.
All brands I know recommend that
I'll use the height he used in the video for reference. But would there not be more time of the teeth being free of wood underneath the table surface? Thus allowing more time spent in the air for Cooling?
Freud also recommends to buy Freud blades.
I've always heard that you should set the height to the bottom of the gullet so it can clear the sawdust. There's also an argument to be made that a higher blade height makes the cut closer to perpendicular to the wood making a cleaner cut. So many opinions on this one!
@@jhersk yeah that’s what I’ve learned as well. It makes for a cleaner and safer cut. Something about less chance of kickback due to the angle of attack of the teeth.
I was actually in the midst of buying a mitre saw, but after watching your video on ‘table saw or mitre saw’, I’ve decided ( planing) on the table saw now. Tq so much also for the simple push block plans. God Bless.
I’ve made several kinds of push blocks over the years, but I really like your handle! So, your design has become my choice now.
One item that I found very useful are aluminum screws. My hardware store carries them-and I use them for jigs, etc. they will NOT harm a blade if you make a mistake.
I drill a couple of holes near the back corners and push in some dowels. Makes it easy to change the height for thin material
Saw this early this morning... Stopped all my projects and make one like this. Started cutting some 1 3/8 strips... now I am doing it safely. THANKS.
Thanks for the idea, after watching the video where the man was injured by the jointer, I review the technique and such videos are wery useful)
Steve ur the best. I built this and now i use it more that the micro jig because of the cleat in the back. Not worried about it gtting cut because they can be replaced so easily, not the case with Gripper
I don't know how I missed this series, but I love it. It's like the old you, back again.
For the push bloc, you probably got another suggestion, but I would have thought wood dowels instead of the screws. But, you are right. I keep my blade so close to the top of the wood, I would never hit them.
Thanks for the videos and the instructions.
Yet another tidbit of knowledge to make my workshop safer and affordable. Thank you for passing on all of your experience in a relatable and entertaining way, it has made me a better weekend woodworker.
As a novice and weekend warrior, I almost exclusively use this type of push block -- with sand paper glued on the bottom. I haven't noticed any significant dulling of the blade other than what you would normally get. It gets your hand away from the blade, gives you more control, tends to keep both pieces separate and reminds you to push all they way through helping to prevent kickback.
Greeting from Johannesburg - South Africa - you sir are a champion and a leader amongst men. I almost went to buy a Jig when I remembered this video .... R300 for the block and R79 for the stick .... but now I can make my own from scraps ... and buy a Glue Bottle.... Thank you for the Plans
I made one this morning. Quick and easy and the thing really does work as advertised.
I freaking love this dude! Whenever I have questions about anything woodworking related, when I search youtube, this dude made a video with the answers I need already.
As always, simple sound advice. Thanks. I have a no frills push block that I literally spent 5 minutes making, that now desperately needs to be replaced with something better. I like your design.
Nothing's more noble than helping people prevent harm to themselves. I salute you, sir!
May I add a thank you for your time, Steve. I have used a push stick for most of my work. Woodworking for over 60 years I have seen a lot of things I liked and one that sticks out in my memory is that plastic gripper thang, seems like to me it is a bit over priced and I have been watching different folks on youtube such as you make these push blocks. My first one was almost exactly like this video portrays and it still works, so keep you your honest and often humorous work up.I did not have a table saw the first few years but I got too lazy to use my worm gear Skil and bought one from Sears Roebuck.
As a new weekend woodworker I threw together a push block like this a long time ago. When I started learning more I bought a much better saw and after seeing every MicroJig promo on Steve’s videos I bought one. I love my microjig, but I find myself using my home made push block more often.
I had an old plaster float lying around I never use I just screwed that to a piece of 2" x 6" and added a 1/4" pieces of ply as the cleat. Works real well and I am paranoid about keeping my hands away from the blades
Great idea. I think i have one of these as well. Now, i just have to find it!
Just got a new shop saw after 30 years away from the hobby. I made one of these in a couple hours and used a dado for the little catch block instead of screws in the back. Works great and I can rip away with confidence.... Thanks for a great video Sir 👍👍
I made one of these last week and used it on my first project. It was really easy and worked perfectly. I had way better cuts and felt a lot safer making them. Thank you. Your videos have given me tons of valuable information.
I'd add some anti skid to the base, or even sandpaper, I'm just anti skids biggest fan! I have it on my push sticks, push blocks, vice jaws, shooting board, a random square on my bench for when sanding etc!! I keep the guys in business!
Great idea. Just made my own in 10 minutes. Does the job and not over-engineered.
Safety tip!!
I'm pretty sure I remember you noting it in past videos, but thought it might be good to mention again. When applying and maintaining pressure in the three directions, downward, forward, and toward the fence, the pressure applied toward fence should only be applied before the blade as pushing the wood against the blade will pinch the blade possibly causing kickback and burning of the wood.
Love the push block. I changed one thing. I made the handle from a 2x4 same shape , but extended lenght ,making a flat on each side to allow it to be screwed in 2x4 base. Save me from having to cut 3/4 groove
I made your push block. Thanks for keeping us safe, Steve.
Because of your video on building a simple sled I now have one and I love it. Also, applying pressure in 3 directions is the key to using a table saw and I TY for teaching me that. The simplified style you present in your videos has helped so many of us . TY Gonna make a push block today!
Built it. Works great. Have overwhelming desire to paint it yellow ...
As an alternative to your design (as well as the micro jig) is just a 5 inch or so length of 2x4 with a 1/2 inch thick piece of wood glued to the bottom for a cleat. Fits well in the hand and gets thrown away after time as the saw cuts through the body and cleat when cutting small pieces.
Thank you Steve!
This is exactly what type of video that drew me to you and also why I recommend you to everyone no matter what their skill level is!
I bought a Grrr-Ripper after I saw you use one. It is a fantastic tool. I have since seen people produce plans to make them out of wood, I'm sure, partly because they are pretty expensive.
This is an excellent alternative to the more expensive options out there. Simple is best, in my opinion. After some use, a person could easily hot rod this thing to be whatever they want. Thanks!
Steve you are a true hero! Thanks for all your time and information!
Muchísimas gracias por sus aportes, le mando un abrazo
Perfect timing. I just got my first table saw. I signed up for two of your courses last year and have been saving up. This will be my first project with the saw. I sure didn’t want to spend $50 on a gripper. Thanks Steve for all you teach us.
I too would rather spend $100 on wood instead.
Love this, thank you for the PDF, I've been meaning to make a push stick & block forever but I just "keep pushing my luck". I'm not using my saw again until I make these, I kinda like my fingers!
Oh Yay! Ive been looking forward to this video ever since you mentioned you were working on a “jig series” a few videos back. Can’t wait to see what you come up with next! 🖤
Well, I guess this will be one of my beginner projects when starting to use my table saw. Easy and important. Thank you!
Great video. I use a similar block made from a 2x4 or 2x6 on its side without a handle and I always use a feather board, ever where possible, to keep the wood pressed against the fence.
Yes to using a 2x6 on edge. You can cut a small chunk out of it to leave a "cleat" on the end or glue on a bit of scrap. Super-duper simple. Steve's video has the advantage of teaching some workshop techniques and the resulting GRRABBER looks more like a tool than a piece of scrap. So it's all good.
One thing i did on a little push block i made for small parts is glued some 120 grit to the bottom for a little extra grip
Finally unit conversions, for us Non-Americans 😎
Your videos and instruction to help aspiring woodworkers like me are much appreciated. Just finished building my first cross cut sled. On to the push block. Thanks for sharing.
I really appreciate the free plans. Thank you
Agree. The plans look great.
OK Steve if they want to do it fine the blade only needs to be as high as the wood is ther been said thks again for sharing your project with us keep them coming ya got this
great idea saved me 50 bucks and maybe a finger
Somehow I don't think Microjig is going to sponsor this one.
Muy bien explicado sin rodeos. Gracias por los planos en milimetros.
I like the idea of using some very thin soft grippy material on the bottom of the push block for better grip reducing the chance of slipping. At the same time I don’t want my saw blade hitting this material so I would recommend just putting a couple of 1 inch strips on the edge of the push block leaving the middle portion of the push block free of the blade hitting it while still benefiting by getting a better grip. Very good video really enjoyed it, many thanks.
omg! google suggested this channel, great stuff! so practical and doable without needing $50,000 in tools I wouldn't even know how to use
Good plan. I think I'll simplify mine even further and just screw a big drawer pull/handle to a 2x4 and add a cleat.
Just competed my new push block and stick. Thanks Steve!
Fantastic!
Great, easy and inexpensive jig. I wanted one of those safer jigs for my table saw but the price! This is nice. I built mine using a 2x4 and a gate handle I had laying around. Used 4 one inch screws. Works well. Thanks again.
According to “Stumpy Nubs” I depends on how much of your finger you are willing to lose. ⚙️
Man i cant tell you how much i love your videos, as a complete novice it helps a ton, thank you
Great pushblock, thanks. It keeps the workpiece DOWN and FORWARD, and I'd suggest a featherboard addition to push into the fence. That way, all you do is push forward/down and it's one less thing to watch. I have to keep my actions simple minded.
Just discovered this channel two days after getting my first table saw - brilliant!
This is great, Steve...a simple push block!! Many thanks - I'll have one complete by next weekend.
Thank You!!! I just retired and getting into woodworking. I was preparing to buy push blocks and came across the video. After viewing the video and looking around your work shop I will no longer purchase ANYTHING I can build.
You're right Steve KISS is always best
Simple and easy
Thank you for sharing valuable information
12:20 The actual operating manual of my table saw has this to say about the depth setting: "Make sure the top three teeth of the blade are just breaking through the upper surface of the workpiece when sawing. This will ensure that the maximum number of teeth are removing material at any given time, thus giving optimum performance." And that is exactly the 'shallow' depth setting Steve demonstrates at 9:40 or so.
Thanks for the video and thanks also to all the people making useful comments. I learn as much in the comments sometimes as in the video.
I really like the idea of using a wedged sliding dovetail to attach both the handle and cleat.
Hey Steve. You have a great personality for making youtube woodworking videos. Keep up the good work.
I have always used two push stick and found it quite awkward, I did realise there were alternatives like the micro jig thing that you use (not sponsored) I never saw any sellers with anything like that here in the UK (I hadn't really looked much. Even though I know that in woodwork everything but the blade can be made from wood, it never occurred to me to make something like that. Thank you, I shall make one in the morning (it's 11.30pm local time).
Fantastic video as always. If I could like this video twice, I would. Thank you for keeping us safe and entertained.
I wish all my High School teachers were this guy.
Oh and I forgot to mention the free plans. You are awesome!
Thanks for adding notes, "translated" sizes into international standard as well (metric), in the videos! 👍
Love the idea. One could glue some dowels in the holes, instead of using screws. I will probably use my home/custom made slip tenon jig to create all of the slots, instead of using dowels, because it gives more surface area than dowels, but it is the same principle. Thanks for sharing Steve!
I love the simplicity of this! Thanks for giving us the plans!! You rock!
Just made this today. Thankyou so much!!
I love your channel, I inherited all my grandpa's wood working tools and he did teach me a little before he passed away but I've learned a lot from your content, so thank you!
One thing you can do is spray some rubber insulation on the bottom to get that grip. Love it! Thanks for giving this to the community.
Thanks for the content, I’m stuck in quarantine, with covid, with all my woodworking quarantine due to being in the midst of moving to a dedicated shop AND 3 car garage! I can’t wait to get my French cleats made and do some projects like this!!!!
Still learning carpentry . Thank you so much ! Really appriciate your videos . They are simple and easy to understand . Please make them coming 😊
Thanks for the idea of making our own push block, Microjig is very expensive here in India
Here too. But it isn't cheap in the US either.
Keep it simple and make one but always use one. Great video and awesome advice. Thanks
It's just a push stick. No need to over engineer. Great design making one next. Wasn't sure why you had the end offset until the end on vid makes alot of sense just flip the piece over and you've got a new stop. Thanks Keep It Simple Stupid are usually the best designs and functionality. I'm not afraid of the screws you would really have to be cutting in REAL DEEP into a push block. FANTASTIC.
Thank you for your channel. This will be one of the first things I make when I get a table saw.
I've been wanting a push block for about a month now. But I haven't yet made it only because I knew this video was coming! Now, I have no excuses left!
Update: Just made the push block! Thanks Steve ❤️!
Excellent video. I am a complete newbie woodworker about to buy my first table saw and that scares me actually as i have deep respect for that kind of tool. You kept it as simple as possible but still made a functional tool out of it. Thanks :-)
Thank you for sharing. I am a newbie to wood working and this is just perfect for me to try as a first project.
I just watched your video the other day and was thinking of making one and then I was cleaning out my shop and notice that a drywall hand sander fits perfect on a 2 by 4 and all someone would have to do is attach the handle on the 2 by 4 and put the cleat on. Im going to give a try and see how well it works
I like the push block idea. I’d also use a blade guard for almost every cut.
Thats a good idea, always had trouble cutting narrow slats, not anymore
Keeping it simple... is why I've watched his channel for years
Hi Steve, I know you probably don't see comments on old videos, but I've started working my way through Weekend Workshop as I get my garage space under control. I started with a RIO and I noticed the offcuts of 1x4 leave perfect wood for this push stick and push block. Not sure if that was intended or if there's a reason it's a bad idea, but it seemed convenient, especially as I haven't figured out how I'm going to transport plywood in my Prius.
The biggest consideration of that push block I was was the bottom of a 2x4 is not that flat, and would also be a little slick, not providing enough grab on the board to keep pressure of the board sideways towards the fence as you cut... planeing the bottom of the 2x4 and maybe attaching some sandpaper along the ends might be a great idea.