I appreciate that despite having a very suitable spindle sander to clean up those parts with, you did the job with the random orbital sander to show how to make use of limited tools, especially the ones you prescribed in your weekend woodworker course. You're dedication to newbie woodworkers like me is appreciated. We can't all build vertical bandsaws and pantorouters just yet!
I saw a post in a page on FB to make the spray-on template easier to remove without the glue afterwards. Put down some blue masking tape on the wood, then spray-on the glue, then the tape comes right off without the issue of the glue stuck to the wood. Thanks for the video Steve, love the channel and all your instruction!
I made mine last night. Only took about an hour to make both the push stick and the block. I love that it's just a piece of 2x4, and I don't have to worry that I'm cutting through a $60 Griprrrr. When it gets chewed up, just replace it with another chunk of 2x4, and you're good to go. Thanks for the plans, Steve!
I’ve made several kinds of push blocks over the years, but I really like your handle! So, your design has become my choice now. One item that I found very useful are aluminum screws. My hardware store carries them-and I use them for jigs, etc. they will NOT harm a blade if you make a mistake.
In the US, it’s becoming increasingly standard to be familiar with both USCS and metric, among people that design or build things. While most of the world can speak at least two languages, the US is starting to become versed in two systems of units. I personally like having the flexibility to use either.
As a novice and weekend warrior, I almost exclusively use this type of push block -- with sand paper glued on the bottom. I haven't noticed any significant dulling of the blade other than what you would normally get. It gets your hand away from the blade, gives you more control, tends to keep both pieces separate and reminds you to push all they way through helping to prevent kickback.
I just finished my push block and it works better than the $40 I bought. I cut one 8 by 2.5 by 3/4 inches wood board for the flat part, adding two 8 by 3/4 by 3/4 to inches to secure the handle side by side, which I also cut from the same wood board. My handle was 6 1/2 by 2 1/2 by 3/4 inches and modeled the same as yours. Been new to woodworking, it took me have a day to finish it, using a Japanese saw and putting it together with wood glue. I finished the top part using sanding paper and stained it. For the bottom part, I used a 2x4x10 inches piece of lumber, which will be replaced as often as needed. Next project is going to be a cross cut sled, which you also have a video for. Thank you for an excellent video.
Thank you so much for this simple push block build. I knew that I was in need of one to be safe, but I didn't want to drop $50 or $60 dollars at the store. Love the simplicity and will thank you every time I keep my digits safe! I'll be making one first thing tomorrow morning 😊
Thank You!!! I just retired and getting into woodworking. I was preparing to buy push blocks and came across the video. After viewing the video and looking around your work shop I will no longer purchase ANYTHING I can build.
I don't want screws close to the blade if at all possible. This might be the first one I make, however the second is going to have a dovetail on the handle bottom that will allow it to slide into a dovetail on the replaceable 2x4 'shoe'. Drill a hole in the 'handle' and into the 2x4 shoe, and a short piece of dowel to act as a screw with a weak rubber cement or such.
One problem with this is that you can't use with a blade guard. I have a guard with dust collection, and don't really want to lose either. Also, the riving knife is not always easy to set at the same height as the blade, and different rise and fall mechanisms may make this problem appear. This can cause the pushblock to get "stuck" at the end of the push, which can be more dangerous. This looks good for your case, however for mine (which is not uncommon), I made a long handled block with the lip at the back, but only 3/4 wide. Like a long handled pushstick that also pushes down.
I would put threaded inserts in the end and make sure the holes in the cleat were consistent. But this presupposed that the 2x4 will be used a lot longer than the cleats.
I don't get the glueing sandpaper for more grip suggestion. If you have coarse sand paper, you can just make the wood face coarser, thus gripier, with said sand paper by lazy hand "sanding"/ scratching. Or take light passes on the sable saw without the cleets installed to make a some kinda of "tire" pattern.
My suggestion is to paint it yellow so you don't misplace it. I usually put things down in plain site but can't find them when I need em. Yellow paint may be an infringement though. Maybe red.
I am very new to woodworking and find your videos most helpful. Thanks heaps. I have searched but am unable to find the templates for the push stick and handle a push block. Can you advise were I can find them. Thanks again.
Seems like instead of screws holding things together, wooden dowels and glue would work holding the handle to the block, and tapered dowels tapped in the back should secure the cleat to the block, unseat them to change the chewed up cleat piece when needed.🤔
I have always been terrified of this style jig, when I was younger my uncle was using one similar to it and it got slightly sideways and kicked back off the top of the blade. He ended up with 3 broken fingers from the experience. Having seen that happen the idea of a pushblock comming in contact with the blade is a no go for me even if the chances of having a problem with it are almost zero
So sorry for your uncle, and it's always terrible for a child to watch someone get hurt. But it's also important to learn from the incident, and know exactly what went wrong and why, and how to prevent the same from happening again. But, are you sure he used a push block like this, if the push block could end sideways during the cut? It sounds like he was using one without an endpiece (cleet?), as with this feature, like the one in the video, I can't see how it would be possible to move the push block sideways during a cut? Unless the push block was too wide, and there was not enough clear and safe space between the block and the blad? And in that case, he should have used a narrower push block or a stick instead? No, no, I'm not trying to make your uncle look bad, not at all, but the opposite. It's all about what we can learn from the mistakes we all do in our life, and how to help others not to make the same mistake! (I was an addict for many years, and sure have done my huge share of stupid mistakes, and used them to educate young people) I absolutely get you from what you have seen, but what would you use instead? How would you make the cuts in the videos where Steve uses the push block, without using a push block? To make the cut between the blade and the fence to go straight forwards and not get stuck and perhaps ending sideways and make a kickback? I think this video shows us exactly how to use the push block in a safe way, and how it prevents kickbacks. And it's all about using a push block with an endpiece, and with a safe space between the block and the blade, or use an extra push stick if it's a narrow cut. Greeting and stay safe (y)
@@pirakoXX it was similar to Steve's except the lip at the back was formed by cutting away material on the bandsaw rather than screwing a tab on. Personally I use 2 push sticks based off of Mathias wandels design I prefer being able to see the full cut, having my hands further from the blade, and the versatility of them.
@@ryancarter4418 Thank you, Ryan, oh, yes, I've seen that kind of push blocks in videos, and I'm not impressed by them. And certainly not as a beginner, as I'm having huge, huge respect for these power tools ... and I too want to keep my body parts intact as long as possible! Matthias Wandel is an amazing woodworker and engineer, and I'm always amazed by this work and the thoughts and science he bases this work on (y) How he made his panto router and made it work so perfectly was just another amazing video to watch!
The plastic ones that come with a table saw are bad for this reason. Mine touched the blade and ended up across the street. No broken fingers but real scary
14:24 - another idea for the bottom to be more tacky, have a layer of glue on it, I don't know which one would work, let it dry overnight and the surface will be less dry than the bare pine board.
@@odhranlynch Yes! I was just going to say that Steve could incorporate similar jokes but make the product name incorporate one or both of the cats’ names. Great minds think alike!
When you drill the two holes in the cleats, you could stack them up and gang drill so that the holes are all in the same location. That way if you replace a cleat, the holes will line up with the existing holes in the 2x4.
I had an old plaster float lying around I never use I just screwed that to a piece of 2" x 6" and added a 1/4" pieces of ply as the cleat. Works real well and I am paranoid about keeping my hands away from the blades
Love your videos Steve. Just started last year at 60 and you have shown me how to build a cross cut sled , push block and push stick as well as countless tips. You make things seem achievable to beginners where others confuse you. Teaching is an art in itself
I'll use the height he used in the video for reference. But would there not be more time of the teeth being free of wood underneath the table surface? Thus allowing more time spent in the air for Cooling? Freud also recommends to buy Freud blades.
I've always heard that you should set the height to the bottom of the gullet so it can clear the sawdust. There's also an argument to be made that a higher blade height makes the cut closer to perpendicular to the wood making a cleaner cut. So many opinions on this one!
@@jhersk yeah that’s what I’ve learned as well. It makes for a cleaner and safer cut. Something about less chance of kickback due to the angle of attack of the teeth.
Oh Yay! Ive been looking forward to this video ever since you mentioned you were working on a “jig series” a few videos back. Can’t wait to see what you come up with next! 🖤
You can always mark a line around the 2x4 base as a warning for the screw depth. It's easy to forget to lower your blade, like when you switch from cutting a thick board to a thin one. The "warning line" on the sides of the push block may help you remember, or at least give you peace of mind knowing you're still in the "safe zone".
Yeah ok I finally got around to making one of those, and tried it, and it is not for me. It may be safe. I couldn't say specifically what could go wrong. But pushing my very hand over and across the saw blade like that makes my hair stand on end. It feels super creepy and dangerous and unsafe. As if it could tip over into the blade at any moment. Though that might have been because the workpiece was rather small and the depth of cut needed to be set fairly high. So lots of blade was exposed above the table. In any event, you have to work without the saw blade cover, which in itself is already something of a no-no. I'll keep using the two-push-sticks method, thanks.
In another of your videos you said that the rip fence is for cutting boards with the grain, or for those longer than they are wide. Why are you able to use it with this board, even though it's wider than it is long? Is it because you're not making a through cut? I'm trying to understand the "rules"--and also when you can break them, when you can't, etc. PS It was after watching your "Steps to making the first cut" video that I felt confident enough to make my first cut. Thanks!
A safer way of doing the cuts at about 4:00 would be to not use your fence, and guide the wood through the cut with a miter gauge. As is, your wood is much wider than it is deep, and that can be tricky to push through a cut without it turning. Yes, the deeper the board is the less of a concern it is, but just a thought. :)
Watching posts like these help me think before spending money unnecessarily. Good idea nice and simple. My version is a bit different but I never would of made my push block if I hadn’t watched this.
Great, easy and inexpensive jig. I wanted one of those safer jigs for my table saw but the price! This is nice. I built mine using a 2x4 and a gate handle I had laying around. Used 4 one inch screws. Works well. Thanks again.
Great pushblock, thanks. It keeps the workpiece DOWN and FORWARD, and I'd suggest a featherboard addition to push into the fence. That way, all you do is push forward/down and it's one less thing to watch. I have to keep my actions simple minded.
Really loving all these videos Steve... O ly found your channel a month ago and have watched so many! Am a DIYer with basic experience with woodworking, but these have got me in the mood to really look at progressing with it! Tiny garage half of yours only the problem 😂
As an alternative to your design (as well as the micro jig) is just a 5 inch or so length of 2x4 with a 1/2 inch thick piece of wood glued to the bottom for a cleat. Fits well in the hand and gets thrown away after time as the saw cuts through the body and cleat when cutting small pieces.
I don't know how I missed this series, but I love it. It's like the old you, back again. For the push bloc, you probably got another suggestion, but I would have thought wood dowels instead of the screws. But, you are right. I keep my blade so close to the top of the wood, I would never hit them. Thanks for the videos and the instructions.
Yet another tidbit of knowledge to make my workshop safer and affordable. Thank you for passing on all of your experience in a relatable and entertaining way, it has made me a better weekend woodworker.
Would using wood glue and dowels work as well as screws and prevent the risk of hitting the screw with the saw blade ( I understand that this is a small risk)
Three points, Steve. First, at 10:57, if you put the push block against the fence, then any effort you try to put into "pressing [the workpiece] against your rip fence" (9:35) goes into merely holding the push block against the fence and you don't really have any control of where the workpiece is in this regard. Second, at 11:00, I wish you'd pointed out that you're relying on the riving knife to hold the back of the offcut away from the rear of the blade. If someone tries what you did without a riving knife, they could get a horrible kickback. Third, at 13:55, to make the push block more "grippy", just put some of your spray adhesive on it and let it dry. You may have to apply another coat after some weeks of use.
I appreciate that despite having a very suitable spindle sander to clean up those parts with, you did the job with the random orbital sander to show how to make use of limited tools, especially the ones you prescribed in your weekend woodworker course. You're dedication to newbie woodworkers like me is appreciated. We can't all build vertical bandsaws and pantorouters just yet!
Agreed
@Dan R Yes, I thought the exact same thing. Much appreciated.
Yes! Gotta be honest here, though...I'm Googling "pantorouters" now. XD
I saw a post in a page on FB to make the spray-on template easier to remove without the glue afterwards. Put down some blue masking tape on the wood, then spray-on the glue, then the tape comes right off without the issue of the glue stuck to the wood. Thanks for the video Steve, love the channel and all your instruction!
I made mine last night. Only took about an hour to make both the push stick and the block. I love that it's just a piece of 2x4, and I don't have to worry that I'm cutting through a $60 Griprrrr. When it gets chewed up, just replace it with another chunk of 2x4, and you're good to go. Thanks for the plans, Steve!
I’ve made several kinds of push blocks over the years, but I really like your handle! So, your design has become my choice now.
One item that I found very useful are aluminum screws. My hardware store carries them-and I use them for jigs, etc. they will NOT harm a blade if you make a mistake.
Yay for metric values! Even after watching US woodworking films for a few years it still takes too much time in my head to do all those ⅜ conversions.
In the US, it’s becoming increasingly standard to be familiar with both USCS and metric, among people that design or build things.
While most of the world can speak at least two languages, the US is starting to become versed in two systems of units. I personally like having the flexibility to use either.
As a novice and weekend warrior, I almost exclusively use this type of push block -- with sand paper glued on the bottom. I haven't noticed any significant dulling of the blade other than what you would normally get. It gets your hand away from the blade, gives you more control, tends to keep both pieces separate and reminds you to push all they way through helping to prevent kickback.
I just finished my push block and it works better than the $40 I bought. I cut one 8 by 2.5 by 3/4 inches wood board for the flat part, adding two 8 by 3/4 by 3/4 to inches to secure the handle side by side, which I also cut from the same wood board. My handle was 6 1/2 by 2 1/2 by 3/4 inches and modeled the same as yours.
Been new to woodworking, it took me have a day to finish it, using a Japanese saw and putting it together with wood glue. I finished the top part using sanding paper and stained it. For the bottom part, I used a 2x4x10 inches piece of lumber, which will be replaced as often as needed.
Next project is going to be a cross cut sled, which you also have a video for. Thank you for an excellent video.
Thank you so much for this simple push block build. I knew that I was in need of one to be safe, but I didn't want to drop $50 or $60 dollars at the store. Love the simplicity and will thank you every time I keep my digits safe! I'll be making one first thing tomorrow morning 😊
Nothing's more noble than helping people prevent harm to themselves. I salute you, sir!
Muy bien explicado sin rodeos. Gracias por los planos en milimetros.
I love the simplicity of this! Thanks for giving us the plans!! You rock!
omg! google suggested this channel, great stuff! so practical and doable without needing $50,000 in tools I wouldn't even know how to use
Thank you!
Thank You!!! I just retired and getting into woodworking. I was preparing to buy push blocks and came across the video. After viewing the video and looking around your work shop I will no longer purchase ANYTHING I can build.
Thank you for sharing. I am a newbie to wood working and this is just perfect for me to try as a first project.
Thats a good idea, always had trouble cutting narrow slats, not anymore
I don't want screws close to the blade if at all possible.
This might be the first one I make, however the second is going to have a dovetail on the handle bottom that will allow it to slide into a dovetail on the replaceable 2x4 'shoe'. Drill a hole in the 'handle' and into the 2x4 shoe, and a short piece of dowel to act as a screw with a weak rubber cement or such.
Thanks! Push block plans.
Thanks again Steve! You’re the best.
Very Very Nice 👍
Yup, keeping it simple is always the best and easiest way to do it. Why overcomplicate a sacrificial tool? Great vid Steve.
Metric coming soon - FANTASTIC Steve can't wait!! 👌🏁 cheers Chris “ The Aussie living in the Netherlands “ 🇦🇺
You could paint it yellow and green. And then have it pop up randomly in places.
dude i love your videos! you always make me feel like i can just go for the projects i have in mind, instead of being intimidated!
You are fantastic, loved this video
O canal que me fez gostar de marcenaria! Adoro vocês! Abraço!
One problem with this is that you can't use with a blade guard. I have a guard with dust collection, and don't really want to lose either. Also, the riving knife is not always easy to set at the same height as the blade, and different rise and fall mechanisms may make this problem appear. This can cause the pushblock to get "stuck" at the end of the push, which can be more dangerous. This looks good for your case, however for mine (which is not uncommon), I made a long handled block with the lip at the back, but only 3/4 wide. Like a long handled pushstick that also pushes down.
The Best
Great video Steve. They will be the next things that I will be making. Love the channel. 👍👍👍
This is awesome!! I can make at least 10 of these with all the scrap wood I have laying around lol.
Steve should make his own microjig intro with his push block, that would be awesome
I realy miss those adds 😉
Strangely, it’s what I was expecting when the video first started. 😂😂
@@honzaburianek2317Me too
Those ads were peak WWMM
this video is so simple, but needed for everyone
Hmm, well not everyone has a table saw nor the space for one.
I would put threaded inserts in the end and make sure the holes in the cleat were consistent. But this presupposed that the 2x4 will be used a lot longer than the cleats.
muito fixe
I don't get the glueing sandpaper for more grip suggestion. If you have coarse sand paper, you can just make the wood face coarser, thus gripier, with said sand paper by lazy hand "sanding"/ scratching. Or take light passes on the sable saw without the cleets installed to make a some kinda of "tire" pattern.
I wonder if making the handle at a slight angle would help with keeping pressure toward the fence.
Good
The Gripper. I think we all miss those sketches.
good job.....I'll make two
My suggestion is to paint it yellow so you don't misplace it. I usually put things down in plain site but can't find them when I need em. Yellow paint may be an infringement though. Maybe red.
I am very new to woodworking and find your videos most helpful. Thanks heaps. I have searched but am unable to find the templates for the push stick and handle a push block. Can you advise were I can find them. Thanks again.
also other sites mention using a sandpaper glued to the bottom... ?
First time viewer. Loved it!!!
Add sandpaper?
Seems like instead of screws holding things together, wooden dowels and glue would work holding the handle to the block, and tapered dowels tapped in the back should secure the cleat to the block, unseat them to change the chewed up cleat piece when needed.🤔
5:00 "Now I need to drill a starte hole." Hmm, this would be a good time to demonstrate a plunge cut, or maybe refer to it as an alternate method?
Use wood dowels
I think it would work better if you painted it purple 🤣 Seriously though, awesome workshop project.
I have always been terrified of this style jig, when I was younger my uncle was using one similar to it and it got slightly sideways and kicked back off the top of the blade. He ended up with 3 broken fingers from the experience. Having seen that happen the idea of a pushblock comming in contact with the blade is a no go for me even if the chances of having a problem with it are almost zero
So sorry for your uncle, and it's always terrible for a child to watch someone get hurt.
But it's also important to learn from the incident, and know exactly what went wrong and why, and how to prevent the same from happening again.
But, are you sure he used a push block like this, if the push block could end sideways during the cut?
It sounds like he was using one without an endpiece (cleet?), as with this feature, like the one in the video, I can't see how it would be possible to move the push block sideways during a cut?
Unless the push block was too wide, and there was not enough clear and safe space between the block and the blad?
And in that case, he should have used a narrower push block or a stick instead?
No, no, I'm not trying to make your uncle look bad, not at all, but the opposite.
It's all about what we can learn from the mistakes we all do in our life, and how to help others not to make the same mistake! (I was an addict for many years, and sure have done my huge share of stupid mistakes, and used them to educate young people)
I absolutely get you from what you have seen, but what would you use instead?
How would you make the cuts in the videos where Steve uses the push block, without using a push block?
To make the cut between the blade and the fence to go straight forwards and not get stuck and perhaps ending sideways and make a kickback?
I think this video shows us exactly how to use the push block in a safe way, and how it prevents kickbacks.
And it's all about using a push block with an endpiece, and with a safe space between the block and the blade, or use an extra push stick if it's a narrow cut.
Greeting and stay safe (y)
@@pirakoXX it was similar to Steve's except the lip at the back was formed by cutting away material on the bandsaw rather than screwing a tab on. Personally I use 2 push sticks based off of Mathias wandels design I prefer being able to see the full cut, having my hands further from the blade, and the versatility of them.
@@ryancarter4418 Thank you, Ryan, oh, yes, I've seen that kind of push blocks in videos, and I'm not impressed by them.
And certainly not as a beginner, as I'm having huge, huge respect for these power tools ... and I too want to keep my body parts intact as long as possible!
Matthias Wandel is an amazing woodworker and engineer, and I'm always amazed by this work and the thoughts and science he bases this work on (y)
How he made his panto router and made it work so perfectly was just another amazing video to watch!
The plastic ones that come with a table saw are bad for this reason. Mine touched the blade and ended up across the street. No broken fingers but real scary
how can I print the push block instructions???
I’ve been with you for so long ... what no « micro-jig »?
14:24 - another idea for the bottom to be more tacky, have a layer of glue on it, I don't know which one would work, let it dry overnight and the surface will be less dry than the bare pine board.
10:32 Oh man, I'm here for the comments on this controversial topic.
Should we call it Micro Steve push block? 🤣
Won't be able to use the blade guard.
NOT brought to you by the grr ripper, by MicroJig
I don't see your paper drawing template.
Please direct me.
Very good instructional videos.
Thank you
Steve "1 inch screw and a washer" Ramsey
Too many screws in a tool that goes past my blade. Rather just clue it all
Somehow I don't think Microjig is going to sponsor this one.
The only part of this that makes me sad is the definitive end of the MicroJig intro jokes. I miss those.
Still love Steve. I just miss the jokes.
Mere Mortals Purr-Ripper. Sponsored by Bubbles and Cobra.
Me too!
@@odhranlynch Yes! I was just going to say that Steve could incorporate similar jokes but make the product name incorporate one or both of the cats’ names. Great minds think alike!
Princess Meow Meow brand push block?
Or how about another Steve Favorite...
[insert random color] Brand Push Block?
Trying to put miccrojig out of business?!?!!
@David curtis Right. Pretty much any jig you can find on UA-cam can be bought at Rockler for $100 or so.
When you drill the two holes in the cleats, you could stack them up and gang drill so that the holes are all in the same location. That way if you replace a cleat, the holes will line up with the existing holes in the 2x4.
Gang drill............sounds sexy.
@@imacracker515 Ew... no it doesn't
Good suggestion!
Glad I read the comments before posting. I was thinking the same thing!
Your Grrripper in the back ground looks like he has a sad face.
•▂•
Grrrripper isn't sad, he's crying
I had an old plaster float lying around I never use I just screwed that to a piece of 2" x 6" and added a 1/4" pieces of ply as the cleat. Works real well and I am paranoid about keeping my hands away from the blades
Great idea. I think i have one of these as well. Now, i just have to find it!
Love your videos Steve. Just started last year at 60 and you have shown me how to build a cross cut sled , push block and push stick as well as countless tips. You make things seem achievable to beginners where others confuse you. Teaching is an art in itself
Was micro jig the one who gave you the bad marketing email??
Freud recommends the blade be high enough for the tooth to clear the top of the work piece.
This allows the teeth to vent their heat out and will allow for a clean cut and longer lasting blade.
All brands I know recommend that
I'll use the height he used in the video for reference. But would there not be more time of the teeth being free of wood underneath the table surface? Thus allowing more time spent in the air for Cooling?
Freud also recommends to buy Freud blades.
I've always heard that you should set the height to the bottom of the gullet so it can clear the sawdust. There's also an argument to be made that a higher blade height makes the cut closer to perpendicular to the wood making a cleaner cut. So many opinions on this one!
@@jhersk yeah that’s what I’ve learned as well. It makes for a cleaner and safer cut. Something about less chance of kickback due to the angle of attack of the teeth.
Oh Yay! Ive been looking forward to this video ever since you mentioned you were working on a “jig series” a few videos back. Can’t wait to see what you come up with next! 🖤
I normally don't comment on your videos. Have enjoyed the content for years now. For some reason I felt compelled to comment, can't figure out why.
Thanks! Great to hear from you!
Woodworking is so plagued by over complicating things. Thank you for always keeping it simple and getting the job done!
Seeing that Steve’s rip fence has a saw kiss mark makes me feel better about my making own oopsie.
We are mere mortals after all.
You can always mark a line around the 2x4 base as a warning for the screw depth. It's easy to forget to lower your blade, like when you switch from cutting a thick board to a thin one. The "warning line" on the sides of the push block may help you remember, or at least give you peace of mind knowing you're still in the "safe zone".
That's exactly what I did
If you are worried about cutting the screws, you are in more danger than dulling the blade
Another great video......I totaly agree with the KIS method, Keep It Simple. There is also the KISS method....Keep It Simple Stupid 🤣
Yeah ok I finally got around to making one of those, and tried it, and it is not for me. It may be safe. I couldn't say specifically what could go wrong. But pushing my very hand over and across the saw blade like that makes my hair stand on end. It feels super creepy and dangerous and unsafe. As if it could tip over into the blade at any moment. Though that might have been because the workpiece was rather small and the depth of cut needed to be set fairly high. So lots of blade was exposed above the table.
In any event, you have to work without the saw blade cover, which in itself is already something of a no-no.
I'll keep using the two-push-sticks method, thanks.
In another of your videos you said that the rip fence is for cutting boards with the grain, or for those longer than they are wide. Why are you able to use it with this board, even though it's wider than it is long? Is it because you're not making a through cut? I'm trying to understand the "rules"--and also when you can break them, when you can't, etc.
PS It was after watching your "Steps to making the first cut" video that I felt confident enough to make my first cut. Thanks!
Now there's a helpful shop-made tool. Just needs a coat of colorful paint! :D
I have to do *something* to stuff like this too. I have a box with stencils that gets pulled out when a wooden shop tool is made.
Or spray lacquer.
Yellow!
I took aluminum screws that hold just fine🍺 prost from germany
A safer way of doing the cuts at about 4:00 would be to not use your fence, and guide the wood through the cut with a miter gauge. As is, your wood is much wider than it is deep, and that can be tricky to push through a cut without it turning. Yes, the deeper the board is the less of a concern it is, but just a thought. :)
Thanks! As a beginner, I was wondering if that was safe to do or not!
Watching posts like these help me think before spending money unnecessarily.
Good idea nice and simple.
My version is a bit different but I never would of made my push block if I hadn’t watched this.
Great, easy and inexpensive jig. I wanted one of those safer jigs for my table saw but the price! This is nice. I built mine using a 2x4 and a gate handle I had laying around. Used 4 one inch screws. Works well. Thanks again.
According to “Stumpy Nubs” I depends on how much of your finger you are willing to lose. ⚙️
Great pushblock, thanks. It keeps the workpiece DOWN and FORWARD, and I'd suggest a featherboard addition to push into the fence. That way, all you do is push forward/down and it's one less thing to watch. I have to keep my actions simple minded.
I made one of these last winter. I think it’s about time to replace the 2x4 base and the foot. Great design and cheap to build and maintain.
Thanks for the idea, after watching the video where the man was injured by the jointer, I review the technique and such videos are wery useful)
This is the WWicrojig (for mere mortals)
My wife says you should clean your table saw blade.
just glue and a homemade (or store-bought) dowel work fine instead of screws with the cleat on bought rather than the back.
Now paint it yellow with green trim :)
Thanks for the idea of making our own push block, Microjig is very expensive here in India
Here too. But it isn't cheap in the US either.
Really loving all these videos Steve... O ly found your channel a month ago and have watched so many! Am a DIYer with basic experience with woodworking, but these have got me in the mood to really look at progressing with it! Tiny garage half of yours only the problem 😂
As an alternative to your design (as well as the micro jig) is just a 5 inch or so length of 2x4 with a 1/2 inch thick piece of wood glued to the bottom for a cleat. Fits well in the hand and gets thrown away after time as the saw cuts through the body and cleat when cutting small pieces.
I don't know how I missed this series, but I love it. It's like the old you, back again.
For the push bloc, you probably got another suggestion, but I would have thought wood dowels instead of the screws. But, you are right. I keep my blade so close to the top of the wood, I would never hit them.
Thanks for the videos and the instructions.
Yet another tidbit of knowledge to make my workshop safer and affordable. Thank you for passing on all of your experience in a relatable and entertaining way, it has made me a better weekend woodworker.
hahaha. The intro had me laughing. "You need a push stick to make a push block." My mind is confused now. What do I do?? haha.
In this video Steve does exactly what he tells you all the time to NOT do in several other videos: crosscut a panel pushing it against the fence. LoL.
Would using wood glue and dowels work as well as screws and prevent the risk of hitting the screw with the saw blade ( I understand that this is a small risk)
Did you have the temples here somewhere?
Three points, Steve.
First, at 10:57, if you put the push block against the fence, then any effort you try to put into "pressing [the workpiece] against your rip fence" (9:35) goes into merely holding the push block against the fence and you don't really have any control of where the workpiece is in this regard.
Second, at 11:00, I wish you'd pointed out that you're relying on the riving knife to hold the back of the offcut away from the rear of the blade. If someone tries what you did without a riving knife, they could get a horrible kickback.
Third, at 13:55, to make the push block more "grippy", just put some of your spray adhesive on it and let it dry. You may have to apply another coat after some weeks of use.
I love it steve! I'd add a little bit of cabinet shelf liner on the bottom to give even more grip to mine :)