I am new to the woodworking craft and I really think your enthusiasm is contagious. Also your ideas are awesome. Never would have thought of the push stick caddy but its awesome!!!
Love the 216 shirt you’re wearing in the talking head shots! I live in Cleveland so super cool to see! Just picked up all the materials I need to build your Miter Saw stand, can’t wait to get it built and save some space in my 1 car garage shop!
I was just about to make some push sticks when I saw your video! Really cool. Also the caddy is a great idea. Very convenient! Great video. Very safe ideas!
Actually Bosch is not selling their Reaxx model anymore due to patent infringement. There are a few still available but the overwhelming consensus is Sawstop has better flesh detecting technology with fewer false activations combined with pro quality that matches any standard shop saw.
The one thing I'd think about doing is replacing the slotted tail stop with a round one with a hole off of center; that way you could tighten the nut to a modest fit and just twist the stop to the right height.
Any time you need threads in wood, drill and tap threads directly into the wood and eliminate gluing nuts and hammering them goofy cleat nuts into the wood. Works just as good as threading into metal and saves lots of time.
@@dannywilsher4165 To be fair when I’ve forced a bolt to make it own thread in timber it was only in pine. In hardwood a tap might be easier but I’d bet money you’d get by without one if you didn’t have a tap handy
that's awesome to see someone with a Saw Stop. i saw that tech years ago and thought that is so awesome! have you ever had it accidentally activate with especially wet wood?
Agreed, the organizer is a great idea. But I will already tell you the tallest push stick goes in the organizer cubby furthest away from the fence, not closest to it.
I agree with Christofix here, the caddy organizer is fantastic, no more fumbling for what is needed. That's a great time saver as well and super simple to make!! Thanks for sharing :)
I love these! I like the fact that you made a number of prototypes; The final version that was stained looks really cool ; It will get roughed but that is a good gauge of it's usefulness; I like 2 x 6 x as well; they take the abuse of the saw really well :) Good tip on the Titebond II; I have used it similarly and was pleasantly surprised to find it bonds metal to wood very well!
As a retired professional woodworker with all my finger, I really do not like this design. Your hand is over the work which seems good but you have to reach further over the blade area at the end of the cut.Nice for the jointer!! For 56 years I have used one basic pusher design. It is sort of like the plastic ones you buy BUT it is WOOD and it is shorter. I prefer a 3' flat that rests on the surface of the work. Helps keep the stick stable during the cut. The handle is wide so your hand has something to grab. And the end is rounded to fit the palm of you hand. When holding, hand is 45 degrees up and back of work about 5" to 6" away. This allows a staple position for pushing. If the work jambs in the cut, you hand is stable. A long stick may "trip" over the work and loose contact with work. AND with my stick, when it all goes wrong, hand is up and behind the blade so you pull your hand away and step to the side. I cut them out of various thickness of plywood. Nothing fancy. Time is money.
April, why do you feel the need to have any more then a 1/8 inch tail piece? Wouldn't 1/8 inch catch anything beyond 1/8 in just as well and you wouldn't need to take the time to adjust it every time?
Pushing a thicker workpiece through the saw takes more force than 1/8" and I would personally want to have as much of the tail piece registering as possible, for leverage, to avoid slipping, etc. 1/8" isn't much. Your point is valid tho.
@@OutoftheWoodwork while the observation about needing or wanting more than an 1/8" of solid wood to catch and push the workpiece through the saw may be true, it is totally negated by the loose fitting nylon bolt glued in with wood glue. I would think that a 1/8" or 3/16" solid wood lip would provide much more resistance to breaking than the nylon nut setup. At least in my experience it has.
I've been thinking.about.building something like this. Table saws.can be.very dangerous. Keeping the danger factor.down is.very.imp..Hoping to build this today. PIANOSTYLE100
Why would the back part need to extend down so far anyways? Doesn't it just help it move forward couldn't something as small as 1/8 of a lip accomplish that? That could do thick and thin stock.
The irony! Puts out a video for the "Best Best Push Stick Ever", then reaches for and uses the store bought push stick to make the caddy. It is a nice push stick design!!
I also use a long and wide 'shoe' design I came up with ten years ago. I think you would do well to re-think the hand hold hole in the handle favoring a pistol grip type handle. If the shoe gets thrown in a kickback situation with fingers through a hole, your hand will be thrown too. It could cost you a finger or two.
@@mikekernan5388 Mine is made from 2x4 about 15 inches long with the leading tip cut a little shorter, and a hand made handle fitted into the top edge about 6 inches in from the heal. It protrudes upward and a little forward for my hand. I would be glad to shoot you a picture if I can get an address. I have not figured out how to attach a picture to this reply.
I enjoy all of your videos and learn so much from you......Question..... What do you do for a living ???....At first I thought you made products to sell, but all I see now are proyects!. So how do you manage to support such expensive tools and shop ??...just for fun .
Great project! Love the R&D with this project... and the caddy was the cherry on the top! Good call with the plastic "hardware". Thanks for another awesome video!
If you drill the hole slightly smaller than the bolt head or nut you could hammer it in for a tighter fit. Nice great video. why buy one when you can make one!
Just a point of clarification, Sawstop is not in fact the only saw on the market that works the way sawstop does. www.boschtools.com/us/en/more/news-and-extras/specials/reaxx_info/index.html Unlike the sawstop the REAXX does not destroy your blade and it can be reset in 60 seconds and the blade can continue to be used, so if it hits a wet spot or activates on a screw or something it won't cost you a blade and a new cartridge and aluminum stop.
couldn't you just make is an 1/8 inch to start with ? You still have good support. that way it would work for anything down to an 1/8 without having to adjust it.
Great ideas! However ... I just have a few questions of ignorance on my part. Bear in mind that the woodworking I do is miniatures and I rarely use a table saw. Why do you need a tail stock that goes all the way to the table? Why not just make the tailstock (say) 1/8" long and leave it at that? I assume that it is intended to be used to help push the stock forward. Does it really NEED to go all the way to the table to accomplish this? Just an observation! Keep up the great work! Love the Fence Caddy idea!
It's safer to use the standard stick at 7:45 to keep your hand behind the blade. If your hand is beside or in front of the blade, kickback can pull your hand to the blade.
hint: for a hidden nut, instead of gluing it in. Make a through hole to the size as the bolt or all-thread yo plan to use on the back side, counter-sink a hole the same size as the Wrench needed for the nut , (I.e. for 1/2 in bolt make a 3/4 inch hole.) deep enough for the nut. place the nut over that count-sink and drive it in with your hammer. one good wack should do it. very strong and wont twist either... I've made clamps that way too. have fun!
So... not trying to be safety police but at 3:00 mark you were running the wood in the same direction as the rotation of the bit (climb milling) which could've pulled the part from you... just in case you were unaware. Nice adaption and videos as always :)
Maybe wrong but i think you overdesigned a consumable tool. Especially the adjustment feature. Less is more. Having only a 1/4 inch overhang will still allow you to resaw 3/4 inch wood. In a cost benefit analysis it fails to satisfy. Until you design it so it is not consumed, the time to produce is too excessive. Yes the handle is not consumable with the dove tail provided you are very particular with blade height but that is the simple part to produce. the doved tailed base is consumable and as your video indicates it was outside of your skill level and while you may be proficient at it now it still is a lot of time invested into saw dust. Finally the adjustable piece probably the most time consuming to produce is also consumable. The consumable parts will theoretically last as long as the one i made in two minutes with zero design consideration and provide zero extra functionallity.
NOPE! I think those who have never had a kickback experience with their hands near the blade might like this push stick but... when you have experienced kickback next to the blade even with a push stick you will come to realize that having your hand or fingers stuck into a hole in the push stick is an even more frightening experience than the kickback. It all happens so fast and I don't want my hand or fingers being pulled or twisted in any way. If you experience kickback, especially with a push stick you will realize that there is very little chance you are stopping it with a push stick and I would rather have the push stick and material go into the blade without my hand attached to it!
It’s kinda annoying that you comment on your comments that haven’t been made yet and keep justifying why you keep trying to perfect your push stick. I know why. Because your awesome that’s why. Keep being you.
3:08 isn't that dangerous running the piece between the outer bit and the fence? Seems that the bit would want to pull the piece through and throw it across the shop? Or is this a router that rotates both ways?
A hole and a Japanese styled wedge would eliminate the metal problem and be easier to make. You could make the hole 3/4” so you could use cut-offs from any 1x stock.
Buen trabajo muy simple pero practico y muy util y sobre todo nos resguarda las manos "April " felicitaciones ,,,creo que ese es tu nombre y si no lo es , pido disculpas ... Saludos desde Argentina ...
Looks like a safety concern to me. A vertical handle would be better instead of finger holes... Good way to break or lose fingers if the blade catches wrong and throws your workpiece and push stick. The adjustable tail and sacrificial bottom is cool though.
I really enjoyed you showing your process. I have been really bugged by this height problem and kept struggling with a solution (besides continuously making hack-job/different-height sticks. The caddy is great too. P.S. amazing sound effects...
HSE is clear on this. Birds mouth push sticks are best for table saws. At least 400mm long. That way you don't do what the author does - lean over or put your hand near the blade.
April do you have plans for these on your website really very cool and when I get a tablesaw I definitely will be looking at the videos and getting the plans off your website also another question is it possible to take a circular saw and wood material and make a tablesaw that way and a fence if so could you make a video on that because that is one thought I had in mind of doing seeing as hell at this time I cannot afford to buy a tablesaw
April. You built that huge shop and your making little push stick videos?? I thought with the big shop and the sawmill you would be making some cool stuff.
Hi, is it necesary to tighten the nut every time? If no, then you could use a lose dovetail dado for the stop block and eliminate the screw. You just have to check that the block moves freely with gravity and to prevent from falling out you could just use a pin that goes through the slot... (maybe a smaller slot with a wooden dowel would do the job)
As much as I liked the idea of an adjustable pushstick, what amazes me, is the (dis)proportion between the effect (pushstick) and the cost: the value of all the different machines used in the process.
Did adding the sliding dove tail piece throw off the adjustable stop, did you cut down the push stick to account for the extra height at the bottom, or make a new adjustable stop? Great stuff, thanks.
Sorry deer grandpa's is the best he shaped it like a fish he loved fishing his shop is small I'm building a beautiful 100 year old Cyprus coffee table so far looks good I might get it finished today
sorry April the push stick the GOD norm Abram made is the best .sorry but lets face it he is GOD and made completely from timber with a nice wax finish
Just an FYI you should never place a board between the cutter and the fence on a router table. It will suck the board in along with your hands. In this case the push sticks will be damaged the most.
I am new to the woodworking craft and I really think your enthusiasm is contagious. Also your ideas are awesome. Never would have thought of the push stick caddy but its awesome!!!
I lover your sound effects after your caddy is finished and your pretending to use your push sticks!! Funny and helpful!! Thanks
Love the 216 shirt you’re wearing in the talking head shots! I live in Cleveland so super cool to see! Just picked up all the materials I need to build your Miter Saw stand, can’t wait to get it built and save some space in my 1 car garage shop!
Ditto. I was like why does she have that shirt on? She's a Texas girl, no?
Girl, you have tools only us newbies can dream about. Your the Bomb! I love your videos!!! Mandy
April Love the sound affects when running the sticks through the saw.. I have been waiting for this one thank you.
I was just about to make some push sticks when I saw your video! Really cool. Also the caddy is a great idea. Very convenient! Great video. Very safe ideas!
Not to be a troll but.... saw stop isn't the only saw with that technology. I really love your videos keep them coming.
Actually Bosch is not selling their Reaxx model anymore due to patent infringement. There are a few still available but the overwhelming consensus is Sawstop has better flesh detecting technology with fewer false activations combined with pro quality that matches any standard shop saw.
The best part of the video.... your sound effects at the end!
Yes the push stick idea was good, the caddy idea for FABULOUS!! :)
The one thing I'd think about doing is replacing the slotted tail stop with a round one with a hole off of center; that way you could tighten the nut to a modest fit and just twist the stop to the right height.
Any time you need threads in wood, drill and tap threads directly into the wood and eliminate gluing nuts and hammering them goofy cleat nuts into the wood. Works just as good as threading into metal and saves lots of time.
You don’t even need to tap it
@@ian9toes It makes it easier to get a bolt into the wood, but you are right, drill a hole in the wood and screw the bolt in will work great!
@@dannywilsher4165
To be fair when I’ve forced a bolt to make it own thread in timber it was only in pine. In hardwood a tap might be easier but I’d bet money you’d get by without one if you didn’t have a tap handy
that's awesome to see someone with a Saw Stop. i saw that tech years ago and thought that is so awesome! have you ever had it accidentally activate with especially wet wood?
Dust collection cart. Genius! Can you make a video about it please 🙏🌹🇦🇺✌️
Great push stick, but I like the pushstick organizer the most, great idea April! This is something I maybe will make for myself too.
Agreed, the organizer is a great idea. But I will already tell you the tallest push stick goes in the organizer cubby furthest away from the fence, not closest to it.
I agree with Christofix here, the caddy organizer is fantastic, no more fumbling for what is needed. That's a great time saver as well and super simple to make!! Thanks for sharing :)
Hi April! Great video! What size dovetail bit did you use on this?
Who has time for all that crap on your table saw that would just get in the way.....
I love these! I like the fact that you made a number of prototypes; The final version that was stained looks really cool ; It will get roughed but that is a good gauge of it's usefulness;
I like 2 x 6 x as well; they take the abuse of the saw really well :) Good tip on the Titebond II; I have used it similarly and was pleasantly surprised to find it bonds metal to wood very
well!
at first I though you were making cat noises at 8:32 - 8:35. Great video! Thanks for sharing
hahaha. Thanks!
Got to tell ya, Love the sound effects. Thanks for a great watch, Cliff
Hi ..i am Yazhs from Indonesian..great job Thank you for video
Show, very cool your work, I did not see any similar project in Brazil! I will manufacture mine!
Love the home made sounds
You can tell when a maker is having fun :-D Brilliant video April!
Very cool April
Thanks for going through your process. PEW PEW!!!
As a retired professional woodworker with all my finger, I really do not like this design. Your hand is over the work which seems good but you have to reach further over the blade area at the end of the cut.Nice for the jointer!! For 56 years I have used one basic pusher design. It is sort of like the plastic ones you buy BUT it is WOOD and it is shorter. I prefer a 3' flat that rests on the surface of the work. Helps keep the stick stable during the cut. The handle is wide so your hand has something to grab. And the end is rounded to fit the palm of you hand. When holding, hand is 45 degrees up and back of work about 5" to 6" away. This allows a staple position for pushing. If the work jambs in the cut, you hand is stable. A long stick may "trip" over the work and loose contact with work. AND with my stick, when it all goes wrong, hand is up and behind the blade so you pull your hand away and step to the side. I cut them out of various thickness of plywood. Nothing fancy. Time is money.
Nice work April💯🎯
April, why do you feel the need to have any more then a 1/8 inch tail piece? Wouldn't 1/8 inch catch anything beyond 1/8 in just as well and you wouldn't need to take the time to adjust it every time?
Ken Porter I agree.
Pushing a thicker workpiece through the saw takes more force than 1/8" and I would personally want to have as much of the tail piece registering as possible, for leverage, to avoid slipping, etc. 1/8" isn't much. Your point is valid tho.
That's exactly how I made mine
Are you thinking 1/4 inch tail stock something sturdier?
@@OutoftheWoodwork while the observation about needing or wanting more than an 1/8" of solid wood to catch and push the workpiece through the saw may be true, it is totally negated by the loose fitting nylon bolt glued in with wood glue. I would think that a 1/8" or 3/16" solid wood lip would provide much more resistance to breaking than the nylon nut setup. At least in my experience it has.
April is that blood on your hands at 4:30?
I was wondering the same thing
At 3:40 you see a can of paint in a similar color, so it might be the paint instead of blood. I also thought it at first though..
Iriolexis Encalada its red paint from the chicken house
Ahh that makes sense
LOL I thought the same thing. I have this video on for background noise while I'm cooking and I glanced over and was reaaaaaaally startled
Awesome chanel and great job April. 👏🏼
: ) Thank you
April repping the 216! CLE!
Cool!
Are you stealing Anne's sweatshirts?? Hahahahahaha!! DD
Ha! Yep while I was visiting her I stole one. I was in her shot when making that sliding dovetail. : )
What's up 216! Just came across your video in a search. Great video! Just got a new sub from a fellow NEOan (440)
I love your sound effects, pew pew lol
Didnt read all comments yet...Could you incorporate a safety glasses compartment?
The top pocket I made on the push stick caddy can hold them. : )
April Wilkerson I kinda thought so.
Instead of glueing a nut, just drill and tap a threaded hole and use a knob with a nylon stud if you are worried about metal in your push stick.
Very cool !!
Adorei muito bom maravilhas.
Ok, can you sell those? I’ll buy one I don’t have the other fancy equipment, a biginner here
Very nice video, informative, but not preachy.
I love how she used a standard push stick at 7:44 even though the ones she made was right there. :P
HAHAHAHAHA . What the heck.
I've been thinking.about.building something like this. Table saws.can be.very dangerous. Keeping the danger factor.down is.very.imp..Hoping to build this today. PIANOSTYLE100
I love the nylon screw idea. I may use that; then I'll just need a SawStop saw to go with it.
Love the sound effects! Thanks you're a blast to watch. Keep up the good work, sorry, can't be work having that much fun..
: ) Glad you enjoy my style.
Why would the back part need to extend down so far anyways? Doesn't it just help it move forward couldn't something as small as 1/8 of a lip accomplish that? That could do thick and thin stock.
Great Ideas! I will have to make one. :-)
Loving the 216 shirt. Go Cleveland
95% of why I clicked
simple practical thinking, love thoes moments when making tools!
: ) Thank you
Hi April,
Like your way of improving on a design. Nice and elegant. :-)
: ) Thanks
Simple project, but I like the prototyping and problem solving aspect of it :)
The irony! Puts out a video for the "Best Best Push Stick Ever", then reaches for and uses the store bought push stick to make the caddy. It is a nice push stick design!!
Great push stick, but the pencil tray is pure genius! I'm always setting things down only for them never to be seen again...
Awesome push stick... and, thank you for not using a CNC to just cut it out!
Totally agree! It's frustrating when you see a tutorial and they start using CNC, laser cutter, etc.
Grandissima ..bel lavoro..auguri di buona Pasqua
Why do Americans make them dodgy looking push sticks and never seem to use a crown guard.
very nice video April welkerson channel thank you
It is like you were born for this. Really great.
Aw thank you. I love doing projects and making videos so that's great to hear.
I also use a long and wide 'shoe' design I came up with ten years ago. I think you would do well to re-think the hand hold hole in the handle favoring a pistol grip type handle. If the shoe gets thrown in a kickback situation with fingers through a hole, your hand will be thrown too. It could cost you a finger or two.
William, sounds like a good adjustment. Would you happen to have a diagram you'd share of how it looks? Mike
@@mikekernan5388 Mine is made from 2x4 about 15 inches long with the leading tip cut a little shorter, and a hand made handle fitted into the top edge about 6 inches in from the heal. It protrudes upward and a little forward for my hand. I would be glad to shoot you a picture if I can get an address. I have not figured out how to attach a picture to this reply.
Titebond can bond metal and wood?? Where have I been?? I honestly didn't know that
Seriously! Titebond II for bonding metal to wood.
April Wilkerson 🤯
Yes, I love how pushing stock through a tablesaw blade sounds like "pew, pew, pew". Lol
She should have thrown in a Meow!
@@doubledarefan What's so funny, meow?
Are you from Cleveland or just have the shirt? I'm from Akron
I enjoy all of your videos and learn so much from you......Question..... What do you do for a living ???....At first I thought you made products to sell, but all I see now are proyects!. So how do you manage to support such expensive tools and shop ??...just for fun .
blood on hands - that's very impressive...
That's red paint from another project I was working on also at the time. Thanks for watching.
Please say that the red on you hands is paint not blood.
いつも拝見いたしておりますが
アメリカ人ってみんなこんな素敵な工房を持ってて自分で何でも作ってしまうのかな?
凄すぎでしょ！
あとやはりお国柄、敷地が広いのが何とも羨ましい
除草が大変かもしれませんが何でも大きいのは魅力的で創作意欲もわくでしょうね。
でも文化の違いですから仕方がないけど刺青があるのでやはり引くのは日本人だからかな
Great project! Love the R&D with this project... and the caddy was the cherry on the top! Good call with the plastic "hardware".
Thanks for another awesome video!
Mmmmmuumumumummunn nnmmmmmmmmmmmm😅nmmmmmummmmmmummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmnnnnmmnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnun😅nnununnnunnnnnununununnnnun😅nn😅ummmmmmu😅mnnm😅mu😅u😅u😅u😅uu😅nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnun😅u😅mummmmmmmmmmmmmmmnmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmummmmmmumu😅u😅u😅u😅u😅😅😅😅😅u😅u😅😅😅u😅u😅😅😅😅😅😅un😅😅mnnunnn😅un😅nnnnn😅unnnnn
If you drill the hole slightly smaller than the bolt head or nut you could hammer it in for a tighter fit. Nice great video. why buy one when you can make one!
Just a point of clarification, Sawstop is not in fact the only saw on the market that works the way sawstop does.
www.boschtools.com/us/en/more/news-and-extras/specials/reaxx_info/index.html
Unlike the sawstop the REAXX does not destroy your blade and it can be reset in 60 seconds and the blade can continue to be used, so if it hits a wet spot or activates on a screw or something it won't cost you a blade and a new cartridge and aluminum stop.
couldn't you just make is an 1/8 inch to start with ? You still have good support. that way it would work for anything down to an 1/8 without having to adjust it.
Great ideas! However ... I just have a few questions of ignorance on my part. Bear in mind that the woodworking I do is miniatures and I rarely use a table saw.
Why do you need a tail stock that goes all the way to the table? Why not just make the tailstock (say) 1/8" long and leave it at that? I assume that it is intended to be used to help push the stock forward. Does it really NEED to go all the way to the table to accomplish this? Just an observation!
Keep up the great work! Love the Fence Caddy idea!
It's safer to use the standard stick at 7:45 to keep your hand behind the blade. If your hand is beside or in front of the blade, kickback can pull your hand to the blade.
hint: for a hidden nut, instead of gluing it in. Make a through hole to the size as the bolt or all-thread yo plan to use on the back side, counter-sink a hole the same size as the Wrench needed for the nut , (I.e. for 1/2 in bolt make a 3/4 inch hole.) deep enough for the nut. place the nut over that count-sink and drive it in with your hammer. one good wack should do it. very strong and wont twist either... I've made clamps that way too. have fun!
So... not trying to be safety police but at 3:00 mark you were running the wood in the same direction as the rotation of the bit (climb milling) which could've pulled the part from you... just in case you were unaware. Nice adaption and videos as always :)
How about building a CNC Mill?
It's not hard to build and can do so much unbelievable things for you.
Take care of your fingers.
Maybe wrong but i think you overdesigned a consumable tool. Especially the adjustment feature. Less is more. Having only a 1/4 inch overhang will still allow you to resaw 3/4 inch wood. In a cost benefit analysis it fails to satisfy. Until you design it so it is not consumed, the time to produce is too excessive. Yes the handle is not consumable with the dove tail provided you are very particular with blade height but that is the simple part to produce. the doved tailed base is consumable and as your video indicates it was outside of your skill level and while you may be proficient at it now it still is a lot of time invested into saw dust. Finally the adjustable piece probably the most time consuming to produce is also consumable. The consumable parts will theoretically last as long as the one i made in two minutes with zero design consideration and provide zero extra functionallity.
NOPE! I think those who have never had a kickback experience with their hands near the blade might like this push stick but... when you have experienced kickback next to the blade even with a push stick you will come to realize that having your hand or fingers stuck into a hole in the push stick is an even more frightening experience than the kickback. It all happens so fast and I don't want my hand or fingers being pulled or twisted in any way. If you experience kickback, especially with a push stick you will realize that there is very little chance you are stopping it with a push stick and I would rather have the push stick and material go into the blade without my hand attached to it!
How come my wife doesn’t do stuff like this?
It’s kinda annoying that you comment on your comments that haven’t been made yet and keep justifying why you keep trying to perfect your push stick. I know why. Because your awesome that’s why. Keep being you.
3:08 isn't that dangerous running the piece between the outer bit and the fence? Seems that the bit would want to pull the piece through and throw it across the shop? Or is this a router that rotates both ways?
A hole and a Japanese styled wedge would eliminate the metal problem and be easier to make. You could make the hole 3/4” so you could use cut-offs from any 1x stock.
Buen trabajo muy simple pero practico y muy util y sobre todo nos resguarda las manos "April " felicitaciones ,,,creo que ese es tu nombre y si no lo es , pido disculpas ... Saludos desde Argentina ...
Looks like a safety concern to me. A vertical handle would be better instead of finger holes... Good way to break or lose fingers if the blade catches wrong and throws your workpiece and push stick. The adjustable tail and sacrificial bottom is cool though.
I really enjoyed you showing your process. I have been really bugged by this height problem and kept struggling with a solution (besides continuously making hack-job/different-height sticks. The caddy is great too. P.S. amazing sound effects...
HSE is clear on this. Birds mouth push sticks are best for table saws. At least 400mm long. That way you don't do what the author does - lean over or put your hand near the blade.
April do you have plans for these on your website really very cool and when I get a tablesaw I definitely will be looking at the videos and getting the plans off your website also another question is it possible to take a circular saw and wood material and make a tablesaw that way and a fence if so could you make a video on that because that is one thought I had in mind of doing seeing as hell at this time I cannot afford to buy a tablesaw
You really put a lot of thought into this push stick April. Thanks for sharing your journey with us. Scott
April. You built that huge shop and your making little push stick videos?? I thought with the big shop and the sawmill you would be making some cool stuff.
Hi, is it necesary to tighten the nut every time? If no, then you could use a lose dovetail dado for the stop block and eliminate the screw. You just have to check that the block moves freely with gravity and to prevent from falling out you could just use a pin that goes through the slot... (maybe a smaller slot with a wooden dowel would do the job)
I like fancy push sticks. Nice tools are a pleasure to use, and often rewarding in terms of quality and accuracy!
Did not realize you were a pusher. LOL Great video. Thank you for sharing April. Love and God Bless.
Great push stick. I noticed that you didn't use your own push stick when making the caddy for the push sticks. :). BTW, congrats on the new TV show.
As much as I liked the idea of an adjustable pushstick, what amazes me, is the (dis)proportion between the effect (pushstick) and the cost: the value of all the different machines used in the process.
Did adding the sliding dove tail piece throw off the adjustable stop, did you cut down the push stick to account for the extra height at the bottom, or make a new adjustable stop? Great stuff, thanks.
Sorry deer grandpa's is the best he shaped it like a fish he loved fishing his shop is small I'm building a beautiful 100 year old Cyprus coffee table so far looks good I might get it finished today
The caddy, pencil holder (ALWAYS need one, can NEVER find one), and push stick combo is what knocks this over the top.
Awesome! Have an amazing week!
sorry April the push stick the GOD norm Abram made is the best .sorry but lets face it he is GOD and made completely from timber with a nice wax finish
Just an FYI you should never place a board between the cutter and the fence on a router table. It will suck the board in along with your hands. In this case the push sticks will be damaged the most.
Great vid, But man, almost called 911 when I saw the red pain stains on your hands. Looked too much like blood.
"Pew, pew" is the sound of my finger gun when I shoot.
Making it adjustable at the rear is unnecessary and a waste of time. All you need is a 1/4 lip on your push block.
💓 from the CLE, thx for the informative video and rocking the 216 gear. Glad I was introduced to your great channel from Matt C's mill build with you.