Hi James, congratulations to your excellent tech tips. I exactly follow your description of aligning a chassis. I nearly use the same tools and I use the tech block for bending. So I can confirm it works this way. I agree to your view on critical points you have to take care of (eg guide tongue and motor box). I think twisted areas are most tricky and can drive you crazy while trying to fix it. I think some guys need to be calmed / reassured, because it needs a lot of experience to get good results. One need to be patient. And in former times some chassis have been very bad. I'd like to add two things I do. First is regarding the check of the pillow blocks. I use a triangle with larger dimensions. The ruler you show is not easy to handle for beginners and it is difficult to look for that small deviations in the pillow blocks. The lower end of the ruler is rather short and not easy to position on the block. Additionally I put in the bearings/oilite bushings and check if the axle slides easily, plus I check if the axle height is the same on both sides. If the difference is within 5/100 mm, I think it's ok. Also when using the feeler gauge for checking the flatness of the chassis I allow 5/100 mm gap or difference. Otherwise there is the risk I become mad 😉. Greetings from Germany, Heiko
Ever try honing the bottom of a chassis ? basically a precise sanding to ensure parallel flatness across the chassis bottom ? bending is problematic. great channel. thx.
James, When you show the detail shots comparing the two versions of the chassis, it appears the markings are only cosmetic. The two chassis are otherwise identical or am I missing something?
Hi Peter, yes, the marks are just cosmetic but they are different on each chassis. I wanted to show that the chassis had different markings from the factory so that people realise they are not entirely the same.
It is not legal to sand or grind the chassis in any way for the world championships. Some national organisations allow a small amount of grinding or sanding to remove burrs but at World Championship level this is not permitted.
Hi Scott. Here are the links to the Proxxon vice used in my video… Proxxon Machine Vice (USA Only) - amzn.to/3iTz3xz Proxxon Machine Vice (UK Only) - amzn.to/39PKam3
Thanks!
I could see the warp in the back right side from your lighting
Just got a JK F1 car and this is very helpful to get it going. Thanks.
Excellent. I think the F1 chassis concept is similar, especially the centre section.
@@CleaveTech Yes, that's why your vid is helpful. Can't wait for Part 2.
Hi James, congratulations to your excellent tech tips. I exactly follow your description of aligning a chassis. I nearly use the same tools and I use the tech block for bending. So I can confirm it works this way. I agree to your view on critical points you have to take care of (eg guide tongue and motor box). I think twisted areas are most tricky and can drive you crazy while trying to fix it. I think some guys need to be calmed / reassured, because it needs a lot of experience to get good results. One need to be patient. And in former times some chassis have been very bad. I'd like to add two things I do. First is regarding the check of the pillow blocks. I use a triangle with larger dimensions. The ruler you show is not easy to handle for beginners and it is difficult to look for that small deviations in the pillow blocks. The lower end of the ruler is rather short and not easy to position on the block. Additionally I put in the bearings/oilite bushings and check if the axle slides easily, plus I check if the axle height is the same on both sides. If the difference is within 5/100 mm, I think it's ok. Also when using the feeler gauge for checking the flatness of the chassis I allow 5/100 mm gap or difference. Otherwise there is the risk I become mad 😉. Greetings from Germany, Heiko
Thank you for taking the time to watch. Great tips. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for sharing. The speed is always in the details.
Thank you 🙏
Timely! I have one to work on for a race next weekend.
Good luck in your race. Unfortunately this series will be over a few weeks so I will not have finished all the tips before you race.
@@CleaveTech I will slog ahead as best as I can in the interim. BTW I have one of those ISRA engraved chassis also. :)
When I was very little i was obsessed with slot cars. It's not very big in Texas I don't know of any tracks near me
That’s a shame there are no slot car tracks near you. I know of tracks in Austin and Dallas.
Fab! Thanks James!
Thanks Paul 👍🏻
Ever try honing the bottom of a chassis ? basically a precise sanding to ensure parallel flatness across the chassis bottom ?
bending is problematic.
great channel. thx.
Yes, I do that in other classes where it is permitted. This class does not allow that process.
Thank you for watching and commenting with your ideas 🙏
Well done.
Thank you 🙏
Guide tongue on Horky chassis etc. Do you set those so they pointing a thou or two up to account for the rear tyres?
Yes I do. 👍🏻
James,
When you show the detail shots comparing the two versions of the chassis, it appears the markings are only cosmetic. The two chassis are otherwise identical or am I missing something?
Hi Peter, yes, the marks are just cosmetic but they are different on each chassis. I wanted to show that the chassis had different markings from the factory so that people realise they are not entirely the same.
Is it legal to sand the bottom to knock off any barbs or burrs ?
It is not legal to sand or grind the chassis in any way for the world championships. Some national organisations allow a small amount of grinding or sanding to remove burrs but at World Championship level this is not permitted.
WOW!
Thank you 😊
Do you have a model number for the Praxxon vise?
Hi Scott. Here are the links to the Proxxon vice used in my video…
Proxxon Machine Vice (USA Only) - amzn.to/3iTz3xz
Proxxon Machine Vice (UK Only) - amzn.to/39PKam3
I can tell by some of your tools and vocabulary you're most likely a machinist