FlashPoint XPLOR 600 / Godox AD600 Product Review Part II
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- Buy the TTL version at amzn.to/2PGgaxF
And the manual version at amzn.to/2wtYMDp
Check out Part 1 first here: • Flashpoint XPLOR 600 /...
Now that I've been shooting with these for 6 months, it's time to give them another look. Find out what works, what doesn't, the little quirks and my conclusions.
Adorama.com specifications for the power cable for the AC adapter say it's 8', but the NEMA 5-15P cable I received was a much more useful 15' long.
Visit my website at www.imagesbydesign.org or on Facebook and Instagram @ImagesbyDesign - Наука та технологія
Hi Jim thanks for another great review on the Flashpoint Xplor 600. Can't wait for the next video. :)
Awesome review dude! Ive been wanting to get one of these for a while now and considering getting one next month. Will be my first step into using strobe lighting :) keep up the great work!
Just ordered one of them. Thanks for the review. Very informative! :)
good review, on thinking about the modelling light switch issue, @ 5:06, the reason most likely is that AF-assist is camera controlled, for low light situations, so the CAMERA menu will assume control of this setting ( also presumably the low-light AF menu setting on Nikon Z cameras as well); for Medium format, and Large format cameras, if this feature is desired, the SWITCH has to control it, as NO computers in these mechanical cameras, so defaulting to dslrs and Mirrorless is good for the AVERAGE user, who uses these systems, but for neice users, the setting is there to change this behaviour to what they want.
Great reviews
Thanks, Jean.
Very helpful video! Can we do the firmware update on a Mac or does it require a PC? That's a problem I ran into with Yongnuo. Thanks.
Hey Jim Nice video. Anyway I have a question for you about the explor600. It appears to me that I may have an issue similar to marzy35 or maybe not, as Adoramo support has informed me as this being a non issue? When in TTL mode if I make a change + or - 3 stop exposure with the wireless remote R2 (radio) or with my 7d (optical) the display on the explor 600 does not reflect the amount + or - as it does instantly when in manual or stroboscopic mode. It just displays 0. The exposure is correct + 0r - the 3 stops but the 0 displayed just doesn't seem right to me. What say you? Is this how your unit works?
I'm interested in purchasing the Xplor 600 but I currently own two canon 430exIII RT speedlites, do the Flashpoint R2 Bridge Receiver for Non-R2 Streaklights (XTR16) work for my speelites or are these only for older Flashpoint speedlites? Lastly, can the Explor 600 be set as a master unit to trigger my canon speedlites on slave mode? if so, will it trigger my canon speedlites when using HSS. Thanks
Hi Jim my concern is when using a large softbox, how strong is the screw that tightens to the light stand, is there any chance that the screw may break when using a large softbox, for example when using a 150cmoctobox, and have you ever come across this when using a large octobox softbox. Thank you Mark :)
Does the XP600 remote head come with the adapter locking ring? Or is it something you have to buy separate?
one question the part that you put in the flash that appears in the video in the minito 6:02 where you purchased it, can put you the link, thanks
Jim I have been having problems at wedding receptions with the Lithium Ion TTL units. Some times they won't communicate with each other. When I tilt or swivel the heads to bounce, exposure is inconsistent. I never had these sort of problems my Nikon SB800 and Radio Poppers. In the camera room everything works fine. In the field, I loose confidence in the system. I have an AD600, 3-TTL Lithium Ions, 3 Manual Lithium Ions and 2-X1 transmitters. Starting to regret my purchase.
Firmware has been updated on all devices. I mount the X1 transmitter on the camera to control the remote flash units around the room. I mount a TTL on top of the X1 and put in iTTL. That seems to resolve the problem of communication and exposure accuracy and consistency. This setup is a bit unwieldy but it works.
HI Jim, Thanks for the review, would you be able to tell me when using AC adapter, how long do you normally get from the modelling light before it over heats?
I am not as technically knowledgeable with photography as you are, Jim, But I am very knowledgeable on LED lights and heat. The LED used in this unit is a 10W maximum output LED. a 10W LED requires a decent sized LED controller that does generate a substantial amount of heat. While it is true that the LED itself does not generate much heat, the controller does. Because of this, running the modeling light at full brightness will eventually get the controller to be too warm for the internal cooling fan to keep it cool. This results in the unit shutting off the LED until it can cool down. One thing that can be done to help is to have a n extra fan blowing on the unit, if that is possible in studio. The other option is to use one of the lower modeling light settings which generates less heat. I can get nearly a full hour of modeling lamp use when I have it on the lowest setting, and 45 minutes at the 2nd setting, with 30 minutes at the highest. Since I usually only use the modeling lamp to help with focusing, I find the lowest setting works fine for me. Just thought you might be interested in the information. Good review!
Thanks Marion, yeah was interested in the time frames, so fantastic info, very helpful, thank you.
I have the Godox branded version of this strobe and one of the DC/AC converters. One thing your video didn't address is how the modeling light performs with AC power. Mine flickers every 10 seconds or so, and I find that concerning. Any issues like that in your usage?
Jim Setzer Interesting, thanks Jim. I haven't noticed a flicker on battery power. If it's there, then it's greatly amplified by AC power in my case. Maybe I got a faulty converter.
Thank you for your review! Have you done any tests with the 1200ws head?
I purchased the 1200ws head and when compared with a single head at full power, the 1200 head is more powerful however, it doesn’t look like it’s a full stop more powerful in HSS. Maybe closer to 1/3 more powerful in HSS.
When not using HSS, the 1200 Head at full power seems like it’s only 2/3 more powerful than one XPLOR 600 by itself.
The crazy part is when shooting the 1200 Head in either 1/2 power with both XPLORs attached or full power with one XPLOR attached, they both seem much less powerful than on XPLOR at full power by itself.
Check the following link for samples:
www.dropbox.com/sh/o0ktirxutdcrrft/AAAInw4X8rELR90UA1OPvVTva?dl=0
Please excuse the non-scientific photos plus the Christmas tree, lol.
Also, Flash Havoc was able to test his 1200ws and he reported similar results: flashhavoc.com/godox-ad600-witstro-ttl-strobe-announced/comment-page-9/#comment-34064
Hello dear Jim 😊Could you please help a brazilian fellow?I started to look for some new flash heads and heard about the Flashpoint, finally I found your channel and I did love watch your videos.Still have some answered question, could you help me?1- I do work for fabrics and fashion companies, so I work about 10 hours straight (not everyday but 4 times a month), thats lead me to up 1500 photos per day. Does this flash heads will support a shooting day that long without missing flashes or getting to hot, or maybe something else that I don't know about... Should I go for brands like Bowens or something like that.2- If modeling lights go off after a while, after10 minutes waiting, it comeback by itself or should I turn it on every time3- In a daily photoshoot, how long it takes until modeling light went off?4- last but not least....would you recommend those lights?Thank you so much for yourhelpBest regardsIgor Oliveira
Igor, if you're not using full power with each shot, the battery pack will last 1500 shots easily. The modeling light shutdown has to do with the control circuit temperature and that's going to depend on your circumstances like what brightness you need those lights, the ambient room temperature, your fire rate, etc. I've just gotten into the habit of turning on the modeling lights when I set/change my lights, then turning them off during most of the shoot. It's a simple two quick taps on the CH button of the trigger to turn them on/off.
I'm having an issue with my r2 transmitter. It will let me switch modes and I can change the power in manual. When I go to ttl it won't change the flash compensation I enter, I have to change it on the unit. Do you know what I might be doing wrong? I'm using a Nikon d500 with Nikon version transmitter.
It's version 2.2. Not sure what I did but it's working now. It's just weird when I change the value in ttl mode on the trigger it doesn't show it change on the LCD on the strobe but the power is changing.
Hi, Do you know if the godox Xpro works with the Neewer NW600BM strobe ; Is the same as the Godox AD600BM right? I'm planning to get another another strobe and speedlight (all godox). Thanks
It does. The Neewer is just a rebadged Godox AD600.
Thanks for the response. The neewer model is a little cheaper.
Hmm, When I am in TTL mode and adjust settings on the controller on top of the camera, the LCD panel on the flash does not show the settings on the LCD screen it should receive from the controller? When in manual mode it does? Am I doing something wrong? I use Canon 5D Mk III:
www.godox.com/EN/Products_Remote_Control_XproC_TTL_Wireless_Flash_Trigger.html
www.godox.com/EN/Products_Camera_Flash_Witstro_AD600_Powerfou&Portable_Flash.html
You are correct, the display on the strobe does not show the TTL exposure compensation like the display on the trigger. The strobe itself does not need to know that you've dialed in compensation, since that adjustment in power comes from the trigger on the exposure fire.
@@ImagesbyDesign hmm okay, but on my AD360II-C it does, therefore I thought there was an error on the AD600's LCD screen. Thanks for replying :-)
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