Glad you did that. Hard to believe engineers couldn't move the PCV valve hose anywhere BEFORE the maf sensor. Pcv air is basically UNMETERED air that is essentially a VACUUM LEAK.
PCVs that I am familiar with have a ball and spring so that as vacuum changes (engine rpm driven) the ball moves to keep flow consistent. The "air" leakage is accounted for by the computer. A leak in the pcv hose, like I had years ago, will let more air in which the computer will interpret as a lean condition and so will up the fuel mix to get the exhaust content back level. My '99 Tahoe was idling at 900 rpm and while coasting through a parking lot with my foot off the gas, the truck was rolling along at 15 mph, much too fast when your are in areas where people are entering and exiting a store. I have a homemade catch can system which catches oil and water so that essentially dry air is re entering the intake stream. Where I live has dyno emissions testing and if they see that set up will disqualify you long before the actual test happens.
That was the breather hose not the pcv valve hose. Your pcv valve hose is going to connect to the intake just past your throttle body butterfly . Not in front of it.
@@danbell3378 The issue I've had with catch cans in the past is that they fill up really fast in the winter. Within a long drive mine would fill with condensation/oil. Once it's full you start to get a steady stream of liquid going into your intake manifold.
People seem to forget that a PCV system uses intake vacuum to pull excess crank case pressure out of the engine, without that you get excessive blowby, gaskets will blow out shortly, oil will find a way past gaskets. There is a reason why after the 1950s they started useing a PVC. Also a little oil up top does help keep the top end lubbed but a good motor won't be pushing much oil that way anyway. I have seen way to many people remove there PVC and end up with a ton of oil leaks, blown gaskets and oil all over under the engine bay, it's not just an emissions thing. It's something that your motor needs, if you look at drag cars they have catch cans and alot have a pressure evac that use the exhaust to pull the pressure out
@@CatFinder3000 it's 100% correct, though moreso on older engines with lower tolerances/bigger piston ring gap than modern motors. I got a steal on the last old truck I bought that was perfect, but it was smoking and burning a quart of oil a week. Noticed the PCV setup was incorrect. Put a new PCV valve in for $5 and plumbed everything up correctly and now it doesn't blow a puff of blue smoke anymore.
You’re installing the part that creates the delete. Completely possible. Just as you would install a piece of straight pipe to complete a resonator or muffler delete.
As some others have said, that was NOT the PVC, but the exit breather hose that runs into the intake, post MAF. A PCV "valve" is what that name inplies..a device, go to autozone and look at the wall of PCVs. It's locking into the intake, usually behind the runners, and has a rubber o ring that seals the connnection and or tabs that lock it into place, with an o ring under that. You need to keep the PVC as it has a spring and plunger that reacts to pressure. The best fix for this is catch can where that hose you disconnected can be fed, as well s the true PVC hose. This way the system maintains the vacuum pressure it needs to evacuate the blowby pressures.
Of course John, as you're doubtless aware, it's possible to use an electrical (or mechanical vacuum pump) to create fresh air flow through a crankcase - we don't necessarily HAVE to route the crankcase fumes into the inlet manifold. But that sort of knowledge is way above this guy's pay grade.
I prefer a catch can, vacuum on the crankcase improves the sealing of the rings. but I also agree with removing the pcv valve, routing it before the throttle body meant it's receiving a vacuum at all times, but that's more geared towards boosted cars.
Caleb Quinn the vacuum is much lower and is variable based on throttle position in that re-routed setup. Some way to remove water vapour and atomized oil etc from the airstream is key for the engine’s longevity- I use a bmw cyclone separator and larger diameter hoses
Decades ago the crankcase breather was just a hose that went down along the side of the engine and oil dripped out of it onto the ground. In extremely cold temperatures (e.g., 20F below zero and colder), the water vapor going back into the air cleaner would fill it up with ice and starve the engine for air. I broke down in Nebraska because of that, pulling a 40 foot trailer. Because of that I quickly located the problem on a little Chevy going west out of Endicott Island on the shore of the Arctic Ocean. Be aware of the possibility of this happening with a breather hose that is routed to the air cleaner, especially, because breaking down can be quickly life threatening at very cold temperatures.
By removing the PCV pipe that connects to intake, the foul air is not able to effectively flow out of the crankcase ( lost suctions from intake) which leads to oil sludge issue. I would recommend to use synthetic oil and change it more frequently if you want to delete it.
pcv valve is designed to provide a vacuum in the crankcase at idle only to draw blow by gases into the intake to be burned rather than released to atmosphere, it can cause issues with ecu calculations if it is faulty because the ecu expects a small air bleed through the pcv system at idle. if the valve fails the ecu may not be able to correctly calculate map/ maf values causing rough idle, hunting or worse, high crankcase pressure in the case of a clogged or collapsed valve which can blow out seals. blown seals mean an oil leak and possible seized engine if it goes unnoticed.
You said it... Last week i had the same problem with my 2009 corolla vaccum missing... I did all things like Tb cleaning spark plugs changed... But idle was not normal.. Again ane again mechanic team try to clear it. At last they find out pcv was blocked... Then change my cars pcv now it's ok more better to ride no other issues 👍✌️.... So pcv is the most important part of the vehicles..... (From Uae)
Very dangerous for health !! You will start smelling the toxic gasses coming out of the small filter you added and this will cause breathing problems in adition to skin allergy! you should add a long pipe and let these gasses make their way underneath the car much more away from you and from the area where car cabinet sucks fresh AC cool and warm air !!!!
In a highly boosted turbo motor, like say a VW Golf R or GTI. A stage 2 tune pushes 28-29psi or a Velostor N 27psi ish. The PVC system is overwhelmed and venting the valve cover with a small air filter on the oil filler cap can save your rear main seal or cam seals from blowing out. Turbo drain lines have been known to push oil back up and leak through the turbo shaft seals in rare cases.
A thing to note is lots of ECU's will be calculating that air from the PCV system as intake air volume. Deleting it will some times throw off its pre sets and will make your engine less responsive and idle poorly.
Wow that is massive disinformation. In no reality will the ECU calculate a totally inanimate, uncensored airway. You need to be more specific. The PCV hose that attaches to your Air Intake, if removed will of course leave the hole that the hose attaches to, to be open. Which in this case you either have it welded closed or a plug.
@Tracker Wolff NO i do understand them. He was on the VALVE COVER BREATHER which is DIFFERENT from the PCV. There is a difference between the 2 and both work in conjunction with each other to help expel crank case pressure built by blow by and crankcase rotation. They do NOT do the same thing.
@Tracker Wolff I KNOW WHAT THE PCV SYSTEM IS AND HOW IT WORKS ... My original post was that he was on the valve cover breather and NOT the pcv .... I never asked YOU how it works, i never asked you for a lesson. I was correcting his MISTAKE.
had this setup on every car i've owned and have had exactly zero problems, i'm not saying you're wrong but maybe that's just the case with older/unhealthy engines with a lot of blow-by
The PCV valve on that Mk4 8v 2.0 is built-in on the intake hose. Agree with you on the modifications. The correct way, would be to add an oil catch can. The PCV one-way valve on this model is not working as "one-way valve" after a few months of use. You will need to check oil more frequently just to be sure that the engine running with enough oil.
its also An unmetered leak too, as it the air is not being metered by the MAF sensor upstream of this pipe near the air filter, so this could effect all sorts of things like idle and fuelling, so many of these misleading videos on UA-cam
@@anonymousiswatching Yes, the way its plumbed from the factory should be maintained, what you need is a catch can that is spliced into that pipe but still maintains air tight seal. on a diesel car it could be bit a different. On a typical petrol engine with PCV, IMO PCV is a dumb name - it really should be called PDCV, Positive Displacement Crankcase Ventilation - it is displacing the air in the crankcase with new fresh and metered air (in the case of a MAF sensor) all the time while ever vacuum is present after the throttle body (idle and cruise) then Wide Open Throttle WOT conditions the system reverses and oil goes back up the clean air tube towards the T-piece between throttle body and Air filter . On a Turbo diesel engine the plumbing would be similar plumbing, For Idle and Cruize conditions with low boost: fresh filtered air enters crankcase like this: Air Filter > T-piece before turbo inlet > Tapper cover and/or lower sump inlet > collects blowby > comes out of other tapper cover vent > into intake runners to be burnt, then for high boost it reverses: Tapper Cover vent (that was originally the fresh inlet) > Turbo T-piece > turbo inlet > intake runners : it does this as the inlet to the turbo has the greatest vacuum at WOT compared to the intake runners after the throttle as they are under boost.
Pretty much if you ever see a Turbo engine in a car that has the air filter (like a pod filter) directly on the turbo mouth with no T-piece to direct clean air to the tapper cover is not done right, if they say it was engineered for the road they are misinformed and polluting and damaging their engine. Another tell tale sign is both tapper cover vents to a catch box with mini pod filters - completely wrong and dumb.
The PVC valve is a safety feature to keep your engine from exploding. Detaching it from the intake can be dangerous because the system requires a vacuum in order to thoroughly remove gases from the engine.
Theoretically the same isn’t it? Higher pressure on one side of the PCV than the other. Whether you have something “sucking” vs the other side “blowing” it should work.
@@xxuncexx No. You have to evacuate the crankcase of all gas. Allowing pressure to build up will allow the accumulation of fuel vapors that blew past the rings. That's why the PVC was introduced. Exploding engines was a common problem before them.
@@drewn4344 I’m not saying plug the PCV side. You can have the PCV, with the hose coming off and just pointing at the ground. Free to vent. But you plug off the throttle body so it’s not like you have a giant vacuum leak.
@@xxuncexx The vaccume is what draws the fuel vapors out of the crank providing a negetive pressure. Without vaccume, you have to wait for the crankcase to have a positive pressure and you won't fully evacuate all combustible gases.
i have the same engine and i started getting misfires on the cylinder closest to the air intake. i opened up the plastic intake pipe and sure enough there was a bunch of oil that has been coming through that breather hose and fouling the nearest cylinder. i also removed breather tube and ran a tube down to the ground so oil blow by hits the road and not my spark plugs. no more misfires no check engine light, car runs great. also capped the opening on the intake like he did
because fck the environment. Back in the 60s, cars would just have a tube running from the engine to somewhere close to the ground just shooting it out in the atmosphere.. This results in bad odors and not really good for your health or environment, a catch can is the solution.
I have a twin turbo engine, instead of a catch can (because i didn't want to have to empty it... if a catch can get filled up and shoots cold liquid in the intake... not good) i've installed an iag air oil seperator... this keep the water/gaz into vapors to go back to the intake, almost no oil...( have prestone passing in the can around the can... ), but act like a catch can for the oil, with the exception that it returns the condensed liquid oil into the crank case... so no more burning oil...
What I understand is pcv valve is the plastic piece on top of the rear of engine. Also I heard of egr delete but not sure of intake breather hose delete. Very sure it is require to vacumm and recirculate air.
Rock&Roll air goes into the breather then out the PCV into the manifold. Air only ever goes out the breather at basically wide open throttle. Hr didn't disconnect the PCV. He DID create an unmetered air leak that is now fucking up his AFR
This might sound crazy but I try this mod 3 years later. Now what he is installing is an air breather filters, not oil catcher which actually goes into the pcv that will be for another mod. What I get is a check engine because the car read it as a leak evap sort of like when u broke a hose and it leak that sort of leak.
The "PCV" valve you have modified is not in fact the valve, that is the fresh air into the motor while the car is idling or a cruise, any pipe to the crank case BEFORE the throttle plate is the inlet of fresh air first filtered by the air cleaner. The PCV Valve or orifice is plumbed AFTER the throttle plate so it can get vacuum to open it at idle and cruise, then closed or unused at engine WOT, literally install a catch can at the PCV Valve side first (that you haven't show) to collect oil, then if you want install a inline catch can for the clean air intake you have taken off, or don't fuck with an engine if you don't know what you are talking about.
The last sentence says it all. If someone does not have some levels of mechanical knowledge, some UA-cam video will mislead them and get them into big problem.
If your PCV is sucking oil, its not working right. That is what it is designed NOT to do. 1) If your PCV is working right, it makes you car more efficient and idle better. 2) Its often illegal to not have it(especially with emissions tests) 3) It keeps harmful vapors out of atmosphere
This. There's literally no downsides to having a PCV except under extreme pressure situations (high boost, large displacement + boost), nothing that a little NA Golf will ever experience. It also doesn't send actual oil into the engine to be burned, it's oil vapors from the hot oil being churned from the positive pressure.
Oil vapour is still oil once it condenses though, so he's right in a way and wasn't trying to over complicate things, I thought his description was ok. But I agree, I wouldn't bother doing this to a NA road car.
I think you mean any boosted car. Boost pressure and displacement make a difference in the PVC system yes, but your still wrong a 1.6 ltr engine running 6 PSI will still be seeing oil pumped into the intake. Nice meme+ your incorrect with your analogy. A N/A car still produces vacuum like turbo'd engines do, its not just the crank case pressure that brings oil into the intake. The vacuum created by the induction of air also pulls oil through the PCV system, combined with the crank case pressure and the valve train flinging oil every where it naturally sucks up oil and makes things dirty and less efficient. You have to remember the dirtier sensors and components get the less efficient they are.
Taylor F+ It creates less harmful emissions then the emissions coming out your tail pipe. Your not burning the oil anymore when you delete the PCV system, opposed to leaving it hooked up your buring the oil and putting more harmful toxins in the air.
MechRider89 Burning the oil is better than the harmful vapors that come out of your crankcase. Also my engine is naturally aspirated, I do not burn oil through my PCV which is hooked up properly and is good?
I really appreciate your effort. but I would say your setup is 100% wrong, the way you deleted the PCV will make your cabin smell when you stop with AC or Heater on .. and sometimes while driving, it's better if you leav it or route it far away from where the cabin intake is .
He means well, but says it wrong. He's not deleting the PCV, he just deleting a breather/vent hose between the valve cover and the air intake. It backfeeds air/oil vapor into the the air being fed in to the throttle body. Ideally, it would backfeed into the intake BEFORE the air filter and the oil vapor/particulate would be captured there. (So what if you have to clean/change your air filter more often.) I have been trying to figure out how to do just that, but haven't come up with a "doable" solution yet. If you are running the stock airbox, you could cut a hole, use a junkyard fitting, some RTV and run a hose to it, but that's kinda awkward and ugly. If you are running any sort of "non OE" air intake I have come up with anything yet. (I'm running a homebrewed short "ram air" type on my NA AVH MK4 Golf.)
you could run it to airbox, yes, however that would be before your MAF & having blowby run across the MAF sensor wire is asking for trouble later on... send the hose anywhere after MAF, but before throttle body - but if you do it this way, you don't want the pcv check-valve, you want it totally hollow/open since air-intake vac will be much lower than intake-manifold vac... it would never open the valve & just clog up. Or - depending on how much oil your car likes to fling around - just leave the pcv valve on without a hose. Most of the blowby gases will vent through the breather hose anyway. Most important step is capping off the manifold vacuum. PCV valve to manifold link is literally just an engine sabotager anyway...
Admire the attempt of eliminating the valve buildup on DGI car. Several ways he could route the vent to not cause issues with fumes in the cab. I don't have a DGI vehicle now, but most likely will in the future. Well aware of the problems with DGI and expensive cleaning services that go with it, from research. Seems to me that a vacuum pump is the hot ticket. Much the same way as it helps race cars achieve better ring seal and crank windage, it would work great on the DGI cars and the problems of oil getting back into the intake. Seems to me that a vacuum pump to the pcv connection, then to a catch can and then to a vent filter before it direct exhausts to the atmosphere is the best way to prevent having the issues with crap on the backs of the valves and the bowl area of the cylinder head. Thoughts about it? I understand that some of you may be tree huggers. But, I am not willing to pay for crap because, not enough time was allowed to work out the problems before going to production. I think that too much pressure is placed on manufacturers with emissions. Not saying that standards shouldn't be raised, but give them time to really iron out the problem. It takes a long time to change something that is truthfully near to the end of what can be done with it.
Just install a good crankcase evac. Can even be done with a cheap electric supercharger or a smog pump. You might gain a little power, but it will definatly make engine run smoother and add efficiency, faster buildup of power.
This would be a good way to get blowby and condensation to contaminate and sludge up the sump oil, instead of getting it sucked out by the intake vacuum, and ending up out the exhaust pipe, where it belongs.
The vacuum from the pcv system pulls the gas and water vapor out of your crankcase. If you delete it your oil will lose viscosity and you will get engine sludge. This is a terrible modification ,it will lead to a increase in engine wear and ultimately engine failure.
Google carbon buildup direct injected engine see why people are doing this although this video he did it wrong. You can buy an electric vacuum pump to suck on it into a catch can that's what I did so you don't get the crap back into your intake still sucks the crank case.
For those who don't know, the old PD engines from Volkswagen are CCV not PCV. I've tried just running an elephant hose with a filter on it but it sticks bad. Now I run it through a can and filter and see minimal mist from the filter and it don't stink anymore
Federico Sagun thats what i was saying....why would you want to delete it ...or remove it rather than juat replace it..they cost like $5..? Whats the point in this? Anyone can tell me please ?
This guy is an amateur because this 2.0 VW engine doesn't even have a PCV VALVE. Its just a tube. He obviously doesn't have a clue calling a tube a valve. Most engines do have a small ball valve but these do not.
Ehr isn't it supposed to be attachted to the intake tube so that the negative pressure in there will make the pvc tube act as a vacuum so it will suck out the gasses?
Good video, but others have said that not having the PCV will cause the engine to create sludge. Those pre PCV era cars engines didn't last very long. I'm gonna go with an oil catch can attached to the PCV side, and vent to atmosphere the other side.
Bought a Fiat Punto where someone had already made this modification. Problem is that the air intake for the cabin was drawing in that stale oily air and made the inside of the car stink. So we removed the catch can as after several attempts of trying to extend the outlet to somewhere it wouldn't smell, we found it was impossible.
If you'll do that the rear or front main seal will leak. I tried it in my mustang and my rear main seal started leaking next day on a new engine with 500 miles. Bad idea! Engine must be under vacuum! Get an oil separator.
Thank you! Jesus Christ! I did this modification when I installed a cold air intake and thought nothing of it. After awhile I noticed some light oil seepage coming from the front and rear main seals on my crank case. I properly replaced the valve cover gaskets thinking they were the issue, did an oil change and cleaned off all of the outer surfaces. I'm currently about 1000 miles out from my next oil change and I just noticed this problem last week. Looks like I'll be tapping a breather hose into my intake. 🤷🏻♂️
Shame he's got no idea how a PCV system actually works. Or, what benefit he achieved by replacing filtered air from the air box with a separate breather.
Pcv only picks up inert crankcase exhaust. It takes out this waste so it doesnt get into your oil and degrade it. The pcv safely sends the inert waste passes through the entire engine from intake to exhaust and keeps your engine clean
I had to run my car with the pcv disconnected (because of repairs) and the vapor was pushed really fast through the hose. Does it really need a vacuum then? Maybe the valve is build only to work with a vaccuum?
The crankcase needs to have blow by sucked out. When you remove the vacuum suction you are not getting good ventilation of the crankcase. This will cause issues in the future. So my opinion is this is not a good solution.
He didn't actually disconnect the vacuum source. What he did was create an unmetered air leak because his PCV valve is not disconnected from the intake manifold. All he did was disconnect the breather which is where normally air that is metered goes IN the crankcase. Air only goes Out that breather hose at basically wide open throttle. It connects after the air sensor because that way the air that goes in the crankcase then out the PCV into the intake will be metered.
this is not the pcv valve... the pcv valve is located at the manifold vacuum to the valve cover. you keep on sayin pcv valve but where is the pcv valve that you removed? that is a hose only connected before the throttle body to oil cap.
Yep you are correct the is video is misleading and needs removing, the pipe he took off is the "Fresh Air" intake in the engines crankcase, Fresh air is always before the throttle plate so its at atmospheric pressure, the PCV valve/orifice and pipe is always plumbed into after the throttle so the PCV valve or orifice gets engine vacuum at Idle or cruise RPM's to open it, the "Fresh Air" tube shown in this video only changes direction at Wide Open Throttle WOT becuase now the PCV port now has almost no vacuum to open, thus blow by has to get out somewhere so it goes back up into the shitty mini pod filter and leaks oil and harmful acids and shit into the atmosphere.
These 2.0 Vw engines don't even have a PCV valve. Its just the tube that he took off. Nothing in the valve cover on these engines. This guy doesn't have a clue what he is at.
Hey man so on the 2006 the PCV valve is inside the valve cover, I imagine it's pretty much just the same plug off the hose that's going to the valve cover, and throw a filter over the return. Thanks for your video and helped a lot
yeah and it will cause car to smoke if you are on heavy boost on some engines due to the fact it will drip right on the exhaust. and cause a mess. catch can is good for the intake manifold. stock line is good for the breather tube side because you dont want to restrict that port.
Yes, but with pcv valve still on, practically none and/or very minimal & in the form of vapor mixed with humidity... but that's what his baffle is for.
good vid, my only comment is you don't emphasise the importance of keeping the "new" filter very clean. I would think any resistance in this filter will ALLOW crankcase pressure to rise, therefore increasing the possible damage to engine seals.
I bought a car that had been raced. Took it to mechanic for thorough going over. He opened the hood and said, "That thing will cause an engine fire!" I said, "Get it out of there."
And how exactly would it cause an engine fire? Even if gasoline somehow leaked on the hot engine block, it still wouldn't ignite, you need a spark, or a flame to ignite gasoline, just spilling oil or gasoline on a hot engine wont ignite it. Your mechanic is a scaremongering moron who just wanted an excuse to charge you for something.
@@jallasymfoniet2721 most modern engines have a coil-on-plug ignition system, everything is well insulated so there should be no reason for a spark in the engine bay, unless the engine was very poorly maintained, and you should not try to mod an old, unhealthy engine anyway. If the engine and its systems are in good condition, it;s basically safe, really.
he said he bought a used race car, so the engine's probably not exactly new, doubt that it would have coil-on-plug ignition system... maybe the mechanic has a point
Makes the engine last longer. Burning oil produces sludge, which can eventually plug your oil cavities causing oil starvation. This happens a lost with 1990-2000s saabs.
On 2020 santa fe 2.4 non turbo engine I removed the pcv valve from the valve cover and was surprised as to how little pressure blew out its opening while it was running . Now if I removed the oil cap plenty of pressure escaped( of course right) so I honestly don't think it would hurt to vent it through a filter ..but indeed leave pcv valve connected to vacume pipe with a small air filter on its opening.thzt way intake pressure will remain normal and not mess with fuel mapping
I see the benefits of not getting oil into your intake, but here's the problem I see..the maf which is before the breather inlet on the air intake, still is built and design with pcv in consideration, so with the lack of air that your engine is getting...your ecu will tell your fuel injectors to run lean, plus oil consumption will plug up the mini air filter quickly, and eventually causing the crankcase not to vent correctly or not to vent at all.. Eventually cause your head gasket to possibly blow.. A pcv delete is not a great idea, it would be better to install an oil catch can..and do it right..
It's also designed to stop condensation build up in your engine and water us a by product of burning petrol. without a pcv oil changes need to be done more regularly
Before anyone tries this I shall warn you that this is not the proper way to do it. PCV valves exists on Otto engines to bring a gas that is a mixture of post combustion air + burnt fuel + oil vapor into the engine system to reuse it and it works pretty well if it weren't for the dirty that appears on vehicles that use direct injection. Notice that indirect system does not need for a delete or catch can since it cleans itself while working and when it's on proper use. Those valves use to have a pressure and you need to maintain it, otherwise (and depending on the model) some issues may appear on your dashboard. If you need one, install a product called *Oil Catch Can* and you will be good to go. Now all that mix of gases are going to be on that engine bay and it will for sure make it dirtier faster, and even can cause some problems. Remember that your car is engineered to work in a way and when you change it, try to keep some characteristics for the system don't go appointing failures, like oil pressure and etcetera. Best regards everybody ❤
Don't need it on multiport injected cars or dual MPI/DI cars which are most new cars but you can use a air oil separator/catch can instead of doing this.
I thought deleting it was bad tell I took the hose and plugged it on my 2015 ram 5.7 hemi and the motor started runnin better and gave me a better Throttle. Lookin to get it "fixed".
There is no valve on these 2.0 Volkswagen, it is just a tube. The electrical plug in where the tube connects to the intake is just a heater so that water vapor does not freeze.
milanmastracci why didn't you actually disconnect the PCV valve? You left it connected to the intake manifold and now your AFR is lean because you now have an unmetered air leak. Air is going into that filter and then out your actual PCV valve into your intake manifold. Air that normally was metered by the air sensor on your hot air intake. Now it's not metered. Because you disconnected it. Air only ever went OUT that port at wide open throttle. When the throttle isn't wide open the pressure is lower on the manifold side of the throttle body and all the ventilation goes out your PCV valve. Your actual PCV valve, not the breather port you disconnected.
@@CrazyLazyDave and? It's such a small leak that it wont actually run lean, the difference would be minimal. Even if it did run slightly lean, the ECU would detect it thanks to the O2 sensors on the exhaust, and it would increase the short term fuel trims to compensate...
@pete smyth Because the engineers are trying to reduce pollution of the environment and increase fuel efficiency by recycling the unused air/fuel mixtures and exhaust gases that goes trough the piston rings when the engine operates! So if you dint care about the above reasons you can delete the PCV valve and have a cleaner air fuel mixture in you cylinder and therefor better performance if it has been eliminated correctly and not like the way its done in the video. Now the question is can the engine eliminate all the build up that going to be present in the crank case by itself with its own pressure with out the help of the sucking power of the vacuum that is created by the pcv valve if you delete it.
you might install an oil catch tank with the vent to air filter already installed on that catch tank then hopefully the tiny filter wont clogg up that quick it happened to me that the tiny air filter got clogged pretty quick thats why that way you keep yout engine compartment a bit more tidy and a lot less oily from all the oil vapor be aware you are going to inhale some of these gasses inside your car and no it is no good for your health of course so the better setup would be to get a those gasses into your exhaust check youtube for that sollution which is better anyways
I did this on my old Harley-Davidson Sportster which had a carburetor. The oil fumes vented to the atmosphere (sorry, EPA) which prevented a mess on my air filter system. Not sure I would want to do this on a modern engine.
It is obvious that a lot of people do not know how VW set up their style of PCV. In this video the car is a VW. This is their PCV set up. To actually replace what would be considered the PCV on this VW, you have to actually replace the entire intake tube!! That cost over $200.
Hello. Is the filter you put on working? Has the engine been damaged? Do you live in a warm or temperate climate? Before installing the filter, the engine was throwing oil out of this breather pipe?
Dude, you know that is where air enters the crankcase, right? It's after the MAF for a reason, so your engine knows how much air is entering. Where the air exits the crankcase and enters the intake manifold, that's where the PCV valve is. It's still on your car and now your engine is pulling an inaccurate amount of air into the cylinders thanks to all the extra air entering that filter you installed.
Up that is an air filter, air enters the system to equalize the vacuum. and the blow by is going into the air. I wish there were a golf clap button on on here SMRT
About half of the hydrocarbons that cause smog come from the engine crankcase. This is why we have positive crankcase ventilation. The system works by burning the hydrocarbons that would otherwise enter the atmosphere. If you delete the PCV tube as shown here you will significantly increase emissions of your engine.
It won't make your engine last longer by removing what came from the factory, the PCV keeps acids, slug, petrol fumes from diluting the oil and in-turn fucking up all the cam shalf, chains, piston rings bearing etc, its completely the opposite of what people think, a Catch can that is vacuum tight plumbed with one for the dirty side and one for clean side is fine and legal, remembering to never combine clean and dirty sides as they are opposites. A "breather" or vented catch can is the most cringe thing I ever see in engine bays and I tell it plain and simple to the owners why they are bad, because most the time people plum the clean and dirty into a vented can and have no PCV on the intake, thus no vacuum assist, they may as well just through money in the bin
Usually there will be 1 breather hose and 1 pcv. What u are connecting might be breather hose not at the, just maybe. U gotto check it yourself. Amd if it is PCVtgat u are connecting, u should plug it back to its original form.
All you did was replace your factory filter with a aftermarket filter good line you remove what's the crankcase breather hose which works with the PCV valve that is still on your engine
Very good video, but I still get a smell of that vented air in my cabin which is considered as "toxic", so what is your altenative solution for that?(not putting pcv it back bro).
On a side note, this is probably illegal in most states with emissions regulations. Unless you have a older vehicle manufactured before emissions regulations went into affect. Also, if you have turbo charged setup, you want to put a vented catch can on the intake side of the manifold. It normally pulls clean air in, but under boost it will be building pressure and pushing out. Catch can will allow venting while collecting oil from vapor. Lots of ways to do it on both sides.
One reason why manufacturers of cars done have oil catch cans is because its another maintenance thing and its much cheaper. Doing what you did is also a good way to stop the pistons/valves from eating all that oil and crap.
Just buy a new pcv valve and replace the old one, and clean or replace the hose as well. do the right thing. The pcv valve is required by law i reckon - to protect the environment
Glad you did that. Hard to believe engineers couldn't move the PCV valve hose anywhere BEFORE the maf sensor. Pcv air is basically UNMETERED air that is essentially a VACUUM LEAK.
PCVs that I am familiar with have a ball and spring so that as vacuum changes (engine rpm driven) the ball moves to keep flow consistent. The "air" leakage is accounted for by the computer. A leak in the pcv hose, like I had years ago, will let more air in which the computer will interpret as a lean condition and so will up the fuel mix to get the exhaust content back level. My '99 Tahoe was idling at 900 rpm and while coasting through a parking lot with my foot off the gas, the truck was rolling along at 15 mph, much too fast when your are in areas where people are entering and exiting a store. I have a homemade catch can system which catches oil and water so that essentially dry air is re entering the intake stream. Where I live has dyno emissions testing and if they see that set up will disqualify you long before the actual test happens.
Would probably get oil on the MAF. Then the MAF wouldn't read right.
That was the breather hose not the pcv valve hose. Your pcv valve hose is going to connect to the intake just past your throttle body butterfly . Not in front of it.
This is correct!
Why not install a damn catch can?
@@danbell3378 The issue I've had with catch cans in the past is that they fill up really fast in the winter. Within a long drive mine would fill with condensation/oil. Once it's full you start to get a steady stream of liquid going into your intake manifold.
@@thesupernad we need a bigger catch can
@@thesupernad That's kinda the point. All of that was going into your intake
Great video on how to do a crank breather delete. I got a GOOD laugh out of this.
People seem to forget that a PCV system uses intake vacuum to pull excess crank case pressure out of the engine, without that you get excessive blowby, gaskets will blow out shortly, oil will find a way past gaskets. There is a reason why after the 1950s they started useing a PVC. Also a little oil up top does help keep the top end lubbed but a good motor won't be pushing much oil that way anyway. I have seen way to many people remove there PVC and end up with a ton of oil leaks, blown gaskets and oil all over under the engine bay, it's not just an emissions thing. It's something that your motor needs, if you look at drag cars they have catch cans and alot have a pressure evac that use the exhaust to pull the pressure out
Pcv*
This is literally not true or correct in any way
Nah it's just puffing off in atmosphere from pvc port
@@CatFinder3000 it's 100% correct, though moreso on older engines with lower tolerances/bigger piston ring gap than modern motors. I got a steal on the last old truck I bought that was perfect, but it was smoking and burning a quart of oil a week. Noticed the PCV setup was incorrect. Put a new PCV valve in for $5 and plumbed everything up correctly and now it doesn't blow a puff of blue smoke anymore.
Tan simple como pensar que si eso está es porque los ingenieros lo diseñaron asi. No nos van a regalar piezas, se los aseguro
"Install a delete" yeah I'm not sure that's exactly how that works.
@Bryce Lawrence thanks, I was able to hack your account just now!
Does that work on a 1967 buick skylark engine 340
@@rubenortiz9149 works on everything some cars especially on Volkswagen you might want to add a catch can
@@rubenortiz9149 depending on where you live you might not pass an inspection/ emissions
You’re installing the part that creates the delete. Completely possible. Just as you would install a piece of straight pipe to complete a resonator or muffler delete.
OMFG! and u got 2.5 k likes. There is no hope for next generations.
As some others have said, that was NOT the PVC, but the exit breather hose that runs into the intake, post MAF. A PCV "valve" is what that name inplies..a device, go to autozone and look at the wall of PCVs. It's locking into the intake, usually behind the runners, and has a rubber o ring that seals the connnection and or tabs that lock it into place, with an o ring under that. You need to keep the PVC as it has a spring and plunger that reacts to pressure.
The best fix for this is catch can where that hose you disconnected can be fed, as well s the true PVC hose. This way the system maintains the vacuum pressure it needs to evacuate the blowby pressures.
Of course John, as you're doubtless aware, it's possible to use an electrical (or mechanical vacuum pump) to create fresh air flow through a crankcase - we don't necessarily HAVE to route the crankcase fumes into the inlet manifold. But that sort of knowledge is way above this guy's pay grade.
I prefer a catch can, vacuum on the crankcase improves the sealing of the rings. but I also agree with removing the pcv valve, routing it before the throttle body meant it's receiving a vacuum at all times, but that's more geared towards boosted cars.
Caleb Quinn the vacuum is much lower and is variable based on throttle position in that re-routed setup. Some way to remove water vapour and atomized oil etc from the airstream is key for the engine’s longevity- I use a bmw cyclone separator and larger diameter hoses
Decades ago the crankcase breather was just a hose that went down along the side of the engine and oil dripped out of it onto the ground. In extremely cold temperatures (e.g., 20F below zero and colder), the water vapor going back into the air cleaner would fill it up with ice and starve the engine for air. I broke down in Nebraska because of that, pulling a 40 foot trailer. Because of that I quickly located the problem on a little Chevy going west out of Endicott Island on the shore of the Arctic Ocean. Be aware of the possibility of this happening with a breather hose that is routed to the air cleaner, especially, because breaking down can be quickly life threatening at very cold temperatures.
Really should have just added a oil catch cause that mod you did Rob's efficiency
I do
By removing the PCV pipe that connects to intake, the foul air is not able to effectively flow out of the crankcase ( lost suctions from intake) which leads to oil sludge issue. I would recommend to use synthetic oil and change it more frequently if you want to delete it.
I disagree. T6 shell Rotella. Cleans your motor spotless! Trash this fake fraud engine oils designed to wreck your motors
I mean who is not using synthetic on a German car........
You don't need vacuum to pull the gas out, the pressure generated by the blow-by itself pushes all the gas out.
Great job in explaining and making this video. It is apparent that some of the 'experts' below are not familiar with the VW AEG engine.
pcv valve is designed to provide a vacuum in the crankcase at idle only to draw blow by gases into the intake to be burned rather than released to atmosphere, it can cause issues with ecu calculations if it is faulty because the ecu expects a small air bleed through the pcv system at idle.
if the valve fails the ecu may not be able to correctly calculate map/ maf values causing rough idle, hunting or worse, high crankcase pressure in the case of a clogged or collapsed valve which can blow out seals.
blown seals mean an oil leak and possible seized engine if it goes unnoticed.
You said it... Last week i had the same problem with my 2009 corolla vaccum missing... I did all things like Tb cleaning spark plugs changed... But idle was not normal.. Again ane again mechanic team try to clear it. At last they find out pcv was blocked... Then change my cars pcv now it's ok more better to ride no other issues 👍✌️.... So pcv is the most important part of the vehicles..... (From Uae)
I suggest no body watch his other videos he clearly has no idea what he is doing
Very dangerous for health !!
You will start smelling the toxic gasses coming out of the small filter you added and this will cause breathing problems in adition to skin allergy! you should add a long pipe and let these gasses make their way underneath the car much more away from you and from the area where car cabinet sucks fresh AC cool and warm air !!!!
@@omoyomoyo6986 I think that here in UK is actually ilegal. or not?
In a highly boosted turbo motor, like say a VW Golf R or GTI. A stage 2 tune pushes 28-29psi or a Velostor N 27psi ish. The PVC system is overwhelmed and venting the valve cover with a small air filter on the oil filler cap can save your rear main seal or cam seals from blowing out. Turbo drain lines have been known to push oil back up and leak through the turbo shaft seals in rare cases.
Venting the valve cover won't cause a vacuum leak? Trying to build my 1.8t
A thing to note is lots of ECU's will be calculating that air from the PCV system as intake air volume. Deleting it will some times throw off its pre sets and will make your engine less responsive and idle poorly.
normal is not a pcv valve in that position, is the breater. pvc valve go direct in intake upper cylinder
you sure?
I do not agree
Wow that is massive disinformation. In no reality will the ECU calculate a totally inanimate, uncensored airway. You need to be more specific. The PCV hose that attaches to your Air Intake, if removed will of course leave the hole that the hose attaches to, to be open. Which in this case you either have it welded closed or a plug.
That is NOT your pcv valve ... that was your valve cover breather ...
@Tracker Wolff i didnt ask how they worked.
@Tracker Wolff NO i do understand them. He was on the VALVE COVER BREATHER which is DIFFERENT from the PCV.
There is a difference between the 2 and both work in conjunction with each other to help expel crank case pressure built by blow by and crankcase rotation.
They do NOT do the same thing.
@Tracker Wolff I KNOW WHAT THE PCV SYSTEM IS AND HOW IT WORKS ...
My original post was that he was on the valve cover breather and NOT the pcv .... I never asked YOU how it works, i never asked you for a lesson.
I was correcting his MISTAKE.
@Tracker Wolff That is NOT his PCV ... That hose he is working on is before the throttle body which is the valve cover breather.
can you help me on my question above?
Get rid of it and get a catch can and vent it back to intake even a motor with great compression will have some blow by and can get a little messy
had this setup on every car i've owned and have had exactly zero problems, i'm not saying you're wrong but maybe that's just the case with older/unhealthy engines with a lot of blow-by
only idiots puts exhaust to te intake, why you need all that hot air going into intake?
The PCV valve on that Mk4 8v 2.0 is built-in on the intake hose. Agree with you on the modifications. The correct way, would be to add an oil catch can. The PCV one-way valve on this model is not working as "one-way valve" after a few months of use. You will need to check oil more frequently just to be sure that the engine running with enough oil.
And by the way you didn't remove the pcv. You removed the fresh air pipe. The pcv is on the other side of the throttle plate
its also An unmetered leak too, as it the air is not being metered by the MAF sensor upstream of this pipe near the air filter, so this could effect all sorts of things like idle and fuelling, so many of these misleading videos on UA-cam
AYE OK SURE I’m confused, so I did this on my 1982 turbo diesel Mercedes cause I was sick of oil in my turbo, are you saying I shouldn’t do this?
Explain
@@anonymousiswatching Yes, the way its plumbed from the factory should be maintained, what you need is a catch can that is spliced into that pipe but still maintains air tight seal. on a diesel car it could be bit a different. On a typical petrol engine with PCV, IMO PCV is a dumb name - it really should be called PDCV, Positive Displacement Crankcase Ventilation - it is displacing the air in the crankcase with new fresh and metered air (in the case of a MAF sensor) all the time while ever vacuum is present after the throttle body (idle and cruise) then Wide Open Throttle WOT conditions the system reverses and oil goes back up the clean air tube towards the T-piece between throttle body and Air filter . On a Turbo diesel engine the plumbing would be similar plumbing, For Idle and Cruize conditions with low boost: fresh filtered air enters crankcase like this: Air Filter > T-piece before turbo inlet > Tapper cover and/or lower sump inlet > collects blowby > comes out of other tapper cover vent > into intake runners to be burnt, then for high boost it reverses: Tapper Cover vent (that was originally the fresh inlet) > Turbo T-piece > turbo inlet > intake runners : it does this as the inlet to the turbo has the greatest vacuum at WOT compared to the intake runners after the throttle as they are under boost.
Pretty much if you ever see a Turbo engine in a car that has the air filter (like a pod filter) directly on the turbo mouth with no T-piece to direct clean air to the tapper cover is not done right, if they say it was engineered for the road they are misinformed and polluting and damaging their engine. Another tell tale sign is both tapper cover vents to a catch box with mini pod filters - completely wrong and dumb.
The PVC valve is a safety feature to keep your engine from exploding. Detaching it from the intake can be dangerous because the system requires a vacuum in order to thoroughly remove gases from the engine.
Theoretically the same isn’t it? Higher pressure on one side of the PCV than the other. Whether you have something “sucking” vs the other side “blowing” it should work.
@@xxuncexx No. You have to evacuate the crankcase of all gas. Allowing pressure to build up will allow the accumulation of fuel vapors that blew past the rings. That's why the PVC was introduced. Exploding engines was a common problem before them.
@@drewn4344 I’m not saying plug the PCV side. You can have the PCV, with the hose coming off and just pointing at the ground. Free to vent. But you plug off the throttle body so it’s not like you have a giant vacuum leak.
@@xxuncexx The vaccume is what draws the fuel vapors out of the crank providing a negetive pressure. Without vaccume, you have to wait for the crankcase to have a positive pressure and you won't fully evacuate all combustible gases.
@@drewn4344 yes true but I’ve blown through a PCV valve and it’s pretty easy. Best thing is always change your oil on time.
I just saw Scotty Kilmer mention amateur mechanics offering questionable advice on youtube
No shit nailed it
Scotty Kilmer is a hack...
he's def a questionable mechanic though
i have the same engine and i started getting misfires on the cylinder closest to the air intake. i opened up the plastic intake pipe and sure enough there was a bunch of oil that has been coming through that breather hose and fouling the nearest cylinder. i also removed breather tube and ran a tube down to the ground so oil blow by hits the road and not my spark plugs. no more misfires no check engine light, car runs great. also capped the opening on the intake like he did
Just change the $15 valve
@@louarmstrong6128 I had this too!
Where is the valve?
I thought it was built into the intake tube?
@@auxmike718 Google your make model and year and pcv valve....takes a few minutes and generally costs $15 or so.
So the oil goes in the atmosphere ... why not change the system and add a catch can?
Youssef El-Masry lol
because fck the environment. Back in the 60s, cars would just have a tube running from the engine to somewhere close to the ground just shooting it out in the atmosphere.. This results in bad odors and not really good for your health or environment, a catch can is the solution.
Go MGTOW Really?
0.01% is almost nothing, 20% is a lot, put catch cans people, it makes the engine run cleaner and stay cleaner.
I have a twin turbo engine, instead of a catch can (because i didn't want to have to empty it... if a catch can get filled up and shoots cold liquid in the intake... not good) i've installed an iag air oil seperator... this keep the water/gaz into vapors to go back to the intake, almost no oil...( have prestone passing in the can around the can... ), but act like a catch can for the oil, with the exception that it returns the condensed liquid oil into the crank case... so no more burning oil...
What I understand is pcv valve is the plastic piece on top of the rear of engine. Also I heard of egr delete but not sure of intake breather hose delete. Very sure it is require to vacumm and recirculate air.
Rock&Roll air goes into the breather then out the PCV into the manifold. Air only ever goes out the breather at basically wide open throttle. Hr didn't disconnect the PCV. He DID create an unmetered air leak that is now fucking up his AFR
This might sound crazy but I try this mod 3 years later. Now what he is installing is an air breather filters, not oil catcher which actually goes into the pcv that will be for another mod. What I get is a check engine because the car read it as a leak evap sort of like when u broke a hose and it leak that sort of leak.
The "PCV" valve you have modified is not in fact the valve, that is the fresh air into the motor while the car is idling or a cruise, any pipe to the crank case BEFORE the throttle plate is the inlet of fresh air first filtered by the air cleaner. The PCV Valve or orifice is plumbed AFTER the throttle plate so it can get vacuum to open it at idle and cruise, then closed or unused at engine WOT, literally install a catch can at the PCV Valve side first (that you haven't show) to collect oil, then if you want install a inline catch can for the clean air intake you have taken off, or don't fuck with an engine if you don't know what you are talking about.
I think your last sentence Toby pretty much sums up the situation here.
Last sentence ftw
The last sentence says it all. If someone does not have some levels of mechanical knowledge, some UA-cam video will mislead them and get them into big problem.
an great way to throw an CEL. and the best way not to pass the state emission test. way the go boy!!!
You guys have emission tests? Ewww.
If your PCV is sucking oil, its not working right. That is what it is designed NOT to do.
1) If your PCV is working right, it makes you car more efficient and idle better.
2) Its often illegal to not have it(especially with emissions tests)
3) It keeps harmful vapors out of atmosphere
This. There's literally no downsides to having a PCV except under extreme pressure situations (high boost, large displacement + boost), nothing that a little NA Golf will ever experience. It also doesn't send actual oil into the engine to be burned, it's oil vapors from the hot oil being churned from the positive pressure.
Oil vapour is still oil once it condenses though, so he's right in a way and wasn't trying to over complicate things, I thought his description was ok.
But I agree, I wouldn't bother doing this to a NA road car.
I think you mean any boosted car. Boost pressure and displacement make a difference in the PVC system yes, but your still wrong a 1.6 ltr engine running 6 PSI will still be seeing oil pumped into the intake.
Nice meme+ your incorrect with your analogy. A N/A car still produces vacuum like turbo'd engines do, its not just the crank case pressure that brings oil into the intake. The vacuum created by the induction of air also pulls oil through the PCV system, combined with the crank case pressure and the valve train flinging oil every where it naturally sucks up oil and makes things dirty and less efficient. You have to remember the dirtier sensors and components get the less efficient they are.
Taylor F+ It creates less harmful emissions then the emissions coming out your tail pipe. Your not burning the oil anymore when you delete the PCV system, opposed to leaving it hooked up your buring the oil and putting more harmful toxins in the air.
MechRider89 Burning the oil is better than the harmful vapors that come out of your crankcase.
Also my engine is naturally aspirated, I do not burn oil through my PCV which is hooked up properly and is good?
I really appreciate your effort. but I would say your setup is 100% wrong, the way you deleted the PCV will make your cabin smell when you stop with AC or Heater on .. and sometimes while driving, it's better if you leav it or route it far away from where the cabin intake is .
He means well, but says it wrong.
He's not deleting the PCV, he just deleting a breather/vent hose between the valve cover and the air intake.
It backfeeds air/oil vapor into the the air being fed in to the throttle body.
Ideally, it would backfeed into the intake BEFORE the air filter and the oil vapor/particulate would be captured there.
(So what if you have to clean/change your air filter more often.)
I have been trying to figure out how to do just that, but haven't come up with a "doable" solution yet.
If you are running the stock airbox, you could cut a hole, use a junkyard fitting, some RTV and run a hose to it, but that's kinda awkward and ugly.
If you are running any sort of "non OE" air intake I have come up with anything yet.
(I'm running a homebrewed short "ram air" type on my NA AVH MK4 Golf.)
you could run it to airbox, yes, however that would be before your MAF & having blowby run across the MAF sensor wire is asking for trouble later on... send the hose anywhere after MAF, but before throttle body - but if you do it this way, you don't want the pcv check-valve, you want it totally hollow/open since air-intake vac will be much lower than intake-manifold vac... it would never open the valve & just clog up.
Or - depending on how much oil your car likes to fling around - just leave the pcv valve on without a hose. Most of the blowby gases will vent through the breather hose anyway.
Most important step is capping off the manifold vacuum. PCV valve to manifold link is literally just an engine sabotager anyway...
Admire the attempt of eliminating the valve buildup on DGI car. Several ways he could route the vent to not cause issues with fumes in the cab. I don't have a DGI vehicle now, but most likely will in the future. Well aware of the problems with DGI and expensive cleaning services that go with it, from research. Seems to me that a vacuum pump is the hot ticket. Much the same way as it helps race cars achieve better ring seal and crank windage, it would work great on the DGI cars and the problems of oil getting back into the intake. Seems to me that a vacuum pump to the pcv connection, then to a catch can and then to a vent filter before it direct exhausts to the atmosphere is the best way to prevent having the issues with crap on the backs of the valves and the bowl area of the cylinder head. Thoughts about it? I understand that some of you may be tree huggers. But, I am not willing to pay for crap because, not enough time was allowed to work out the problems before going to production. I think that too much pressure is placed on manufacturers with emissions. Not saying that standards shouldn't be raised, but give them time to really iron out the problem. It takes a long time to change something that is truthfully near to the end of what can be done with it.
Just install a good crankcase evac. Can even be done with a cheap electric supercharger or a smog pump. You might gain a little power, but it will definatly make engine run smoother and add efficiency, faster buildup of power.
This would be a good way to get blowby and condensation to contaminate and sludge up the sump oil, instead of getting it sucked out by the intake vacuum, and ending up out the exhaust pipe, where it belongs.
The vacuum from the pcv system pulls the gas and water vapor out of your crankcase. If you delete it your oil will lose viscosity and you will get engine sludge. This is a terrible modification ,it will lead to a increase in engine wear and ultimately engine failure.
Google carbon buildup direct injected engine see why people are doing this although this video he did it wrong. You can buy an electric vacuum pump to suck on it into a catch can that's what I did so you don't get the crap back into your intake still sucks the crank case.
For those who don't know, the old PD engines from Volkswagen are CCV not PCV. I've tried just running an elephant hose with a filter on it but it sticks bad. Now I run it through a can and filter and see minimal mist from the filter and it don't stink anymore
I was a stupid as this guy was and it damage my engine. Dont do it. just replace your pcv valve. This guy is amature mechanic
How did it damage your motor?
you did it wrong dummy loll
Federico Sagun thats what i was saying....why would you want to delete it ...or remove it rather than juat replace it..they cost like $5..? Whats the point in this? Anyone can tell me please ?
lol
This guy is an amateur because this 2.0 VW engine doesn't even have a PCV VALVE. Its just a tube. He obviously doesn't have a clue calling a tube a valve. Most engines do have a small ball valve but these do not.
Its to relieve blow by, and since its metered air, it gets injected into the intake air post MAF
will car run too lean if i vent it to atmospere?
Perfect video of what not to do.
Ehr isn't it supposed to be attachted to the intake tube so that the negative pressure in there will make the pvc tube act as a vacuum so it will suck out the gasses?
Good video, but others have said that not having the PCV will cause the engine to create sludge. Those pre PCV era cars engines didn't last very long. I'm gonna go with an oil catch can attached to the PCV side, and vent to atmosphere the other side.
Bought a Fiat Punto where someone had already made this modification. Problem is that the air intake for the cabin was drawing in that stale oily air and made the inside of the car stink. So we removed the catch can as after several attempts of trying to extend the outlet to somewhere it wouldn't smell, we found it was impossible.
If you'll do that the rear or front main seal will leak. I tried it in my mustang and my rear main seal started leaking next day on a new engine with 500 miles. Bad idea! Engine must be under vacuum! Get an oil separator.
Thank you! Jesus Christ! I did this modification when I installed a cold air intake and thought nothing of it. After awhile I noticed some light oil seepage coming from the front and rear main seals on my crank case. I properly replaced the valve cover gaskets thinking they were the issue, did an oil change and cleaned off all of the outer surfaces. I'm currently about 1000 miles out from my next oil change and I just noticed this problem last week. Looks like I'll be tapping a breather hose into my intake. 🤷🏻♂️
What in the heck did I just watch? Hey can you make videos of modding your Hot Wheels toy cars too?? It would be so funny :D
jesus christ its about time, i've waited so long for someone to put one of these videos up. Thanks a bunch!
Shame he's got no idea how a PCV system actually works. Or, what benefit he achieved by replacing filtered air from the air box with a separate breather.
Why don't you use an oil catch can?
Pcv only picks up inert crankcase exhaust. It takes out this waste so it doesnt get into your oil and degrade it. The pcv safely sends the inert waste passes through the entire engine from intake to exhaust and keeps your engine clean
A breather is not enough all the gas blow by will sit in your oil. You want a vacuum to put it out with a oil catch can.
Correct the harmful gasses dissolve into the oil and eat at the engine basically.
I had to run my car with the pcv disconnected (because of repairs) and the vapor was pushed really fast through the hose. Does it really need a vacuum then? Maybe the valve is build only to work with a vaccuum?
Catch can need to be emptyed.... air oil seperator returns the liquid oil in the case, and oil filter do it's job....
The crankcase needs to have blow by sucked out. When you remove the vacuum suction you are not getting good ventilation of the crankcase. This will cause issues in the future.
So my opinion is this is not a good solution.
He didn't actually disconnect the vacuum source. What he did was create an unmetered air leak because his PCV valve is not disconnected from the intake manifold. All he did was disconnect the breather which is where normally air that is metered goes IN the crankcase. Air only goes Out that breather hose at basically wide open throttle. It connects after the air sensor because that way the air that goes in the crankcase then out the PCV into the intake will be metered.
What about the other pcv with the valve, will you add a catch can to eliminate the oil which gets recirculated with the bypass combustion gas?
pls give us the update of your pcv delete? its 2019.
Dude so well explained
I need help with my 1.8 t
this is not the pcv valve... the pcv valve is located at the manifold vacuum to the valve cover. you keep on sayin pcv valve but where is the pcv valve that you removed? that is a hose only connected before the throttle body to oil cap.
john paulo donato yeah i just commented exactly the same thing!
Yep you are correct the is video is misleading and needs removing, the pipe he took off is the "Fresh Air" intake in the engines crankcase, Fresh air is always before the throttle plate so its at atmospheric pressure, the PCV valve/orifice and pipe is always plumbed into after the throttle so the PCV valve or orifice gets engine vacuum at Idle or cruise RPM's to open it, the "Fresh Air" tube shown in this video only changes direction at Wide Open Throttle WOT becuase now the PCV port now has almost no vacuum to open, thus blow by has to get out somewhere so it goes back up into the shitty mini pod filter and leaks oil and harmful acids and shit into the atmosphere.
These 2.0 Vw engines don't even have a PCV valve. Its just the tube that he took off. Nothing in the valve cover on these engines. This guy doesn't have a clue what he is at.
Lol...
Hey man so on the 2006 the PCV valve is inside the valve cover, I imagine it's pretty much just the same plug off the hose that's going to the valve cover, and throw a filter over the return. Thanks for your video and helped a lot
What about check engine light? By doing this I would imagine the ECU would see this as stuck closed valve.
Isnt oil still gonna come out of that delete filter?
Ray Rivera That could happen.. and with a bit of more bad luck your car will be smelly as hell.
Why the filter? It will get dirty anyway. Should get clogged up quite fast, shouldn't it?
yeah and it will cause car to smoke if you are on heavy boost on some engines due to the fact it will drip right on the exhaust. and cause a mess. catch can is good for the intake manifold. stock line is good for the breather tube side because you dont want to restrict that port.
Yes, but with pcv valve still on, practically none and/or very minimal & in the form of vapor mixed with humidity... but that's what his baffle is for.
good vid, my only comment is you don't emphasise the importance of keeping the "new" filter very clean. I would think any resistance in this filter will ALLOW crankcase pressure to rise, therefore increasing the possible damage to engine seals.
These filters are usually washable and easy to do so, it's just common sense imho.
If you have port injection PCV’s are not a problem coz the fuel cleans your valves. The carbon build up problem is due to direct injection
I bought a car that had been raced. Took it to mechanic for thorough going over. He opened the hood and said, "That thing will cause an engine fire!" I said, "Get it out of there."
And how exactly would it cause an engine fire? Even if gasoline somehow leaked on the hot engine block, it still wouldn't ignite, you need a spark, or a flame to ignite gasoline, just spilling oil or gasoline on a hot engine wont ignite it. Your mechanic is a scaremongering moron who just wanted an excuse to charge you for something.
worn ignition parts? electrical shorts? many things that can cause a spark near the engine
@@jallasymfoniet2721 most modern engines have a coil-on-plug ignition system, everything is well insulated so there should be no reason for a spark in the engine bay, unless the engine was very poorly maintained, and you should not try to mod an old, unhealthy engine anyway. If the engine and its systems are in good condition, it;s basically safe, really.
he said he bought a used race car, so the engine's probably not exactly new, doubt that it would have coil-on-plug ignition system... maybe the mechanic has a point
I'm confused on what this does? Is there any HP gain? would an oil catch can be better though?
Makes the engine last longer. Burning oil produces sludge, which can eventually plug your oil cavities causing oil starvation. This happens a lost with 1990-2000s saabs.
How does your crankcase breath now? Did you make a vent hole in the case?
Should I add some extra holes to my radiator?
Lol…
On 2020 santa fe 2.4 non turbo engine I removed the pcv valve from the valve cover and was surprised as to how little pressure blew out its opening while it was running . Now if I removed the oil cap plenty of pressure escaped( of course right) so I honestly don't think it would hurt to vent it through a filter ..but indeed leave pcv valve connected to vacume pipe with a small air filter on its opening.thzt way intake pressure will remain normal and not mess with fuel mapping
I see the benefits of not getting oil into your intake, but here's the problem I see..the maf which is before the breather inlet on the air intake, still is built and design with pcv in consideration, so with the lack of air that your engine is getting...your ecu will tell your fuel injectors to run lean, plus oil consumption will plug up the mini air filter quickly, and eventually causing the crankcase not to vent correctly or not to vent at all.. Eventually cause your head gasket to possibly blow.. A pcv delete is not a great idea, it would be better to install an oil catch can..and do it right..
It's also designed to stop condensation build up in your engine and water us a by product of burning petrol. without a pcv oil changes need to be done more regularly
Dont delete pcv it only does good things for your engine
LIke build up carbon deposits on your direct injected engine valves cost $1200 to have the head removed and cleaned.
Volkswagens other vehicles pcv valve is fine. Check out scotty Kilmer channel oil catch cans.
@@tatoloco90 Scotty is a wack job
@@Mike-01234 if you dont have a turbine the engine will burn it off buddy. Also. The carbon buildup is so insignificant.
It causes more water condensation to get into the oil but if you change it alot it is fine
Some cars neeeeeed this. But most after market PCV valves are pre shit. But this is a must for VW direct injections not able to clean the valves.
Before anyone tries this I shall warn you that this is not the proper way to do it.
PCV valves exists on Otto engines to bring a gas that is a mixture of post combustion air + burnt fuel + oil vapor into the engine system to reuse it and it works pretty well if it weren't for the dirty that appears on vehicles that use direct injection. Notice that indirect system does not need for a delete or catch can since it cleans itself while working and when it's on proper use.
Those valves use to have a pressure and you need to maintain it, otherwise (and depending on the model) some issues may appear on your dashboard.
If you need one, install a product called *Oil Catch Can* and you will be good to go. Now all that mix of gases are going to be on that engine bay and it will for sure make it dirtier faster, and even can cause some problems.
Remember that your car is engineered to work in a way and when you change it, try to keep some characteristics for the system don't go appointing failures, like oil pressure and etcetera.
Best regards everybody ❤
Don't need it on multiport injected cars or dual MPI/DI cars which are most new cars but you can use a air oil separator/catch can instead of doing this.
I thought deleting it was bad tell I took the hose and plugged it on my 2015 ram 5.7 hemi and the motor started runnin better and gave me a better Throttle. Lookin to get it "fixed".
There is no valve on these 2.0 Volkswagen, it is just a tube. The electrical plug in where the tube connects to the intake is just a heater so that water vapor does not freeze.
What the point in making a video if your not going to respond to any of these questions that your viewers have?
Whats your question..
milanmastracci why didn't you actually disconnect the PCV valve? You left it connected to the intake manifold and now your AFR is lean because you now have an unmetered air leak. Air is going into that filter and then out your actual PCV valve into your intake manifold. Air that normally was metered by the air sensor on your hot air intake. Now it's not metered. Because you disconnected it. Air only ever went OUT that port at wide open throttle. When the throttle isn't wide open the pressure is lower on the manifold side of the throttle body and all the ventilation goes out your PCV valve. Your actual PCV valve, not the breather port you disconnected.
@@CrazyLazyDave and? It's such a small leak that it wont actually run lean, the difference would be minimal. Even if it did run slightly lean, the ECU would detect it thanks to the O2 sensors on the exhaust, and it would increase the short term fuel trims to compensate...
@pete smyth Because the engineers are trying to reduce pollution of the environment and increase fuel efficiency by recycling the unused air/fuel mixtures and exhaust gases that goes trough the piston rings when the engine operates! So if you dint care about the above reasons you can delete the PCV valve and have a cleaner air fuel mixture in you cylinder and therefor better performance if it has been eliminated correctly and not like the way its done in the video. Now the question is can the engine eliminate all the build up that going to be present in the crank case by itself with its own pressure with out the help of the sucking power of the vacuum that is created by the pcv valve if you delete it.
That air filter will easily be chocked with oil and will be useless unless you install a catchcan first.
You inhale the best gases in your life😂😂😂
you might install an oil catch tank with the vent to air filter already installed on that catch tank then hopefully the tiny filter wont clogg up that quick
it happened to me that the tiny air filter got clogged pretty quick thats why
that way you keep yout engine compartment a bit more tidy and a lot less oily from all the oil vapor
be aware you are going to inhale some of these gasses inside your car and no it is no good for your health of course
so the better setup would be to get a those gasses into your exhaust check youtube for that sollution which is better anyways
I guess a real man proves he doesnt care what people think to delete this video, or just made ti get that fat google check....
I did this on my old Harley-Davidson Sportster which had a carburetor. The oil fumes vented to the atmosphere (sorry, EPA) which prevented a mess on my air filter system. Not sure I would want to do this on a modern engine.
It is obvious that a lot of people do not know how VW set up their style of PCV. In this video the car is a VW. This is their PCV set up. To actually replace what would be considered the PCV on this VW, you have to actually replace the entire intake tube!! That cost over $200.
Hello. Is the filter you put on working? Has the engine been damaged? Do you live in a warm or temperate climate? Before installing the filter, the engine was throwing oil out of this breather pipe?
Dude, you know that is where air enters the crankcase, right? It's after the MAF for a reason, so your engine knows how much air is entering. Where the air exits the crankcase and enters the intake manifold, that's where the PCV valve is. It's still on your car and now your engine is pulling an inaccurate amount of air into the cylinders thanks to all the extra air entering that filter you installed.
hello dejan, I have mk4 2.3l V5 engine, can you tell me where PCV is located in AGZ engine, I cant find it, please
Up that is an air filter, air enters the system to equalize the vacuum.
and the blow by is going into the air.
I wish there were a golf clap button on on here SMRT
Don't forget to change our your blinker fluid!!
what about the oil that would fill the small filter... like u said thrz oil that comes back up too... will the filter not clog up from gasses and oil?
im wonderin the same thing
About half of the hydrocarbons that cause smog come from the engine crankcase. This is why we have positive crankcase ventilation. The system works by burning the hydrocarbons that would otherwise enter the atmosphere. If you delete the PCV tube as shown here you will significantly increase emissions of your engine.
It won't make your engine last longer by removing what came from the factory, the PCV keeps acids, slug, petrol fumes from diluting the oil and in-turn fucking up all the cam shalf, chains, piston rings bearing etc, its completely the opposite of what people think, a Catch can that is vacuum tight plumbed with one for the dirty side and one for clean side is fine and legal, remembering to never combine clean and dirty sides as they are opposites. A "breather" or vented catch can is the most cringe thing I ever see in engine bays and I tell it plain and simple to the owners why they are bad, because most the time people plum the clean and dirty into a vented can and have no PCV on the intake, thus no vacuum assist, they may as well just through money in the bin
Where blew by gas go if it is a filter and no way to be recirculated or colected?
Best channel ever,,, can do a video of how waxing ur car without any machines I mean at home
he has one just do everything he did without the machine
+Yemi_Rs TYVM! Ma man I appreciate that 👍
Usually there will be 1 breather hose and 1 pcv. What u are connecting might be breather hose not at the, just maybe. U gotto check it yourself. Amd if it is PCVtgat u are connecting, u should plug it back to its original form.
Reading the comments like..glad we can all agree on things🤣🤣
All you did was replace your factory filter with a aftermarket filter good line you remove what's the crankcase breather hose which works with the PCV valve that is still on your engine
I would have hooked up an oil catch can for this, but do you. EGR Valve delete next? ;)
Where did you buy the adapter for that installation? Pvc?
Hi Milan, can this delete eleminate the oil burning?
Very good video, but I still get a smell of that vented air in my cabin which is considered as "toxic", so what is your altenative solution for that?(not putting pcv it back bro).
@Benjamin Burlos very clever
Idk why but everytime i watch one of your videos my 2 year old son screams 'its the poo poo ca caa man!' hahahaha
Saw several videos like this, not a single one mentions the high risk of flooding the crankcase with water during heavy weather or washing.
The PCV plays bigger role than one could ever imagine. I suggest anyone thinking of doing this, Google PCV function before making a mistake.
Yes, just install the new $15 valve. DONE
On a side note, this is probably illegal in most states with emissions regulations. Unless you have a older vehicle manufactured before emissions regulations went into affect.
Also, if you have turbo charged setup, you want to put a vented catch can on the intake side of the manifold. It normally pulls clean air in, but under boost it will be building pressure and pushing out. Catch can will allow venting while collecting oil from vapor. Lots of ways to do it on both sides.
“We’re going to install a delete” .. hol up, wait a minute,.. somethin ain’t right!
One reason why manufacturers of cars done have oil catch cans is because its another maintenance thing and its much cheaper. Doing what you did is also a good way to stop the pistons/valves from eating all that oil and crap.
Dazzmond not all engines are catch can cannidates like ford
that's not the main reason at all
Can I do this in vw 1.8 tsi?
Just buy a new pcv valve and replace the old one, and clean or replace the hose as well. do the right thing. The pcv valve is required by law i reckon - to protect the environment
nice dish washer hose you got there
What are the benefits of the pvc delete?
2 questions. You removed just the hose or the valve as well?, now is nothing sucking the gases from the crank case, how evacuate all those gases?