Great video. No annoying music. Straight to the point. No unnecessary intro. Diagrams were quality. You addressed the rear line which I was debating on whether the tank would have to be dropped or not. Thanks for making this video for us.
Great video - thank you! Just did this job on a 2000 Suburban after watching a bunch of UA-cam videos. I'm a decent DIY mechanic but have never done this job before. I used Dorman SS set. It happened on vacation, so I was working in a driveway with limited tools, no power tools and jack stands, did the job in about 8 hours including bleeding. Dorman set fit pretty well and, surprisingly, all lines went in fairly easy. Some minor bending required. Good to have flare nut (line) wrenches as well as stubbies. Touchy part with SS lines is aligning some of the flare nuts at ABS unit - if they are not aligned PERFECTLY - you will likely cross thread the nut. If the nut does not go in by hand, carefully examine the tube alignment and bend to align until nut threads by hand - it would be very easy to cross thread into aluminum ABS housing. I spent about 30 minutes aligning the last line and it was easiest to get to - luckily the others were easier. Take a nut off of one of the removed lines to chase the threads if you chowder them even slightly. When the tubing is aligned the nut will thread easily by hand - avoid wrench until well started. This should not be too much of a problem with line that is softer than SS. If I had to do this again and could plan ahead, I would Use NiCo line and a double flaring tool and make my own lines - I think that would make the job much easier. Another video says that the GM coated lines are easier to work with and that makes sense. The diagram in this video was perfect for my application, but also pay attention to stacking order in the clips on the side of the frame rail. Hope this helps someone.
sr out all the videos I been checking yours offers the best yet simple explanation of the diagram of the lines one guy had over 10 holes in a lift sticky note could not make sense of anything awful and confusing yet this is the one that really made sense to me thanks.
Successful followed your instructions. I also had to install the two rear line over rear axle.due to corroded fittings with brake line and bleeder screws on rear drums. After removing the rear brake lines, I used tv coaxial cable tied to one to get an accurate measurement of the length. Worked great.
Thanks for the diagram. I was doing fuel line and cut it all out to pull the ABS just to get it out of my way until I got to the new lines. One tip though. Remove the 6 or 8 bed bolts and slide the bed back and jack up the side for more room and easier feeding.
Totally agree lifting the bed a bit would help, but getting some of the fasteners out is a problem. A few just spin due to rust. The brine solution that took out the fuel and brake lines also got at the bed bolts. Joys of the rust belt I guess.
Absolute c**t of a job but me and the old man got it done. Took a whole weekend. Video helped a lot. Just be patient and have a good head rest/knee board. You'll be on your back and hands and knees a lot.
I Need to do this job in my 2000 Tahoe, I really appreciate the video, I will take the task, and do it. The lines are too rusty to keep driving like that, i dont wanted any surprises later. Now I'm motivated to do it. Thanks for the video
When i do silverado lines, it helps a lot to remove the drivers side bed bolts, loosen the passenger side, and just slip the rear line between the bed and the frame. A lot less time consuming than messing around trying to get the bends past the fuel tank
Wish I would found your video a day sooner. I wanted to route my lines back to the way they were but forgot how. I think what I did will work but wont know till I set the cab down. The section at the front of the cab is all I'm worried about. Its kind of tight in that area and I'm afraid the lines will rub against the frame. I seen on another video to put a sliced vacuum hose over the pipe where it might rub. I think doing that and I will be ok. But still wish I seen your video so I could of done it factory. By the way, I bought the cop/nic lines and bent them myself. Good video.
I've been trying to do this same project on a GMC Sierra 3500 dump truck. The Dorman 919-159 kit in theory should have been easy, but pulling the new pre-formed into place has been near impossible doing the work solo. Several of the sections are quite long and involve many complex turns and tight positioning between body and frame. Sounds like having a helper like yours might be the secret to success.
I think another person who can help makes a huge difference. You can feed them the line and both sides can adjust as needed. The other potential option would be to loosely wire or zip tie sections up so they don’t sag while you are working them into place. I’ve used shop magnets in the past to quickly hold something up too.
Thanks I was going to do just a spice but I changed my mind to do a full brake line replacement would be a better way to go thx for the video now I know what is up
Don’tuse a compression fitting to splice, parts are not expensive just replace the lines with stainless steel or nicopp lines, GM dropped the ball on these and cheaped out
My brake lines look like they came from the bottom of the ocean. They're so rusted and corroded and now they leak. I'm up next I'm following your video hopefully this works
This video is exactly what I was looking for. Also were you able to bleed the brakes the typical way or did you have to bleed the Abs unit as well? Great Video. Thanks
Glad it helped. I had to cut the rear drums and replace the cylinders to bleed the brakes. Things were pretty rusty and the bleeders were just nubs. We bled the brakes as usual. My daughter held the pedal while I bled the lines. The pedal was a bit spongy for a few commutes but it firmed up once the Drum brakes got used a bit.
Stupid GM abs pumps... You can just bleed the brakes as usual with no scan tools. There will be air trapped in the abs pump, but that won’t matter until the ABS activates. I just carried a few wrenches with me so i could re bleed out in the field when the ABS triggered, because it shot a bunch of air into my lines. They should work normally before that happens though.
@@infl I heard the thing to do is drive out to an empty gravel road and speed up a bit and press the brake pedal hard enough for the ABS to engage and keep doing that until the pedal firms up.
@@goodnamesareallgone1 Yeah if air is trapped in the ABS pump, triggering it will send the air into a part of the system where it is removable by bleeding. I’ve seen some people on the internet saying after their ABS pump triggered their pedal got firm. But there’s still going to be air in the system... Makes me wonder what they consider a firm pedal 😂
tl dr: low traction method works good. Triggering the abs may finish bleeding your brakes for you. But it might also make your brakes inoperable. so i wouldn’t put money on it working. Bring tools, brake fluid and a friend if you use this method. In ABS pumps, there is a pump with a series of check valves and electronic valves. There is one valve that will block the direct flow of high pressure brake fluid to the wheels. There is also a check valve on each side of the actual pump. The intake of the pump is connected through a check valve to a small reservoir, and that reservoir is connected directly to the brake lines feeding the wheels. The output of the pump connects to the line from the master cylinder through another check valve. When the ABS is triggered, the blocking valve shuts. Then, the pump turns on. It sucks the fluid from the wheel lines, causing pressure to drop and the wheel can spin easier. The blocking valve gets turned on and off many times a second to ensure the brake pressure going to the wheels does not drop all the way down, or go into a vacuum. The fluid from the pump is forced back to the master cylinder, and increases brake pressure on the master side. this is what causes the vibration feeling in the pedal. If you can not activate the valves and pumps the OEM way (a fancy expensive scanner), the gravel/snowy road method works excellently. But the air doesn’t magically disappear from the system. You certainly have to bleed the brakes again after doing the ABS bleed, and it may push so much air into your lines that your brakes are barely working. So when I went out and drove right after doing my lines and bleeding the best i could, i knew i had to bring tools to bleed with me. Glad i did too, it dumped a stupid amount of air into my lines. I had to put it in neutral to get the thing to stop rolling. One way the ABS pump triggering could fix the spongy brakes for you: The part of the pump where you cannot bleed regularly is the reservoir/pump. When it activates, the air gets sucked out of all these areas and forced back to the master cylinder. Since the ABS pump location in GM trucks allows for the master cylinder feed lines to go downhill the whole way, the air could theoretically go all the way to the master cylinder with the help of gravity causing brake fluid to displace it. if the pump didn’t get it there already. But in a lot of vehicles, and some circumstances even in GM trucks, this is not the case, and you will still have a shit ton of air in the system.
Watching this because my front drivers side body mount caved in and that “tight space” your talking about crushed at least one of my brake lines. So yes, replace your body mounts to avoid some bs like this. 🤦♂️
I wish that you'd filmed removing the lines from the "tight spot" .. I can't get mine out of there and I need to so that I can run the new ones in. I'm stumped!
Loosen the wiring harnesses going through and roll them out of the way. There should be enough room to wiggle and twist the lines through. Ask someone else to help from the other end. You will get it.
@@growntogether9913 I did not get them out! The two wiring harnesses were not in the way! After much struggling, I ended up cutting all the lines at the bend in the tight spot and pulling them forward and backward from there. One of the "intact" lines started leaking from this "tight" location as soon as I started to try to get one of the lines out, so at that point, it was game-over anyway. I have not seen anyone pull these lines through here on a 1500, either install or removal, so I seriously can't figure out whether my truck is unusually tight/bent or whether there's some trick to it that nobody realizes they're doing. Before I chopped them, they seriously wouldn't move. Someone had done a repair on one of the lines and instead of pulling it out, they'd just cut the line before and behind the tight spot and added a new line, not routed through this spot. When I first saw it, I thought "what a hack" and now that I've been unsuccessful at removing them, I completely understand why they ran the hack instead of trying to get 4-way cluster F'd by that turn.
@@alafrostythere are plastic retainers the line is pressed in to holding it to the frame, you just have to try and locate them and release them. Not easy to access, some folks drop the gastank, or lift one side of the cab or truckbox
@@kellismith4329 There is zero distance between the top of the plastic retainer and the front of the cab's weld seam. It was impossible to lift the lines out of the clip because the cab seam was in the way. I ended up cutting the lines off, pulling them through the clip. and then yanking the clip off as there wasn't even enough room to undo the clip. My truck is a 2000, so I'll bet they figured out (later) that this configuration made the lines impossible to replace and changed it up, but I'd like to have seen how it was done on a later truck. I undid all the bed bolts and removed the left side bolts, pivoted up the bed and had loads of clearance for the rear line. I cleaned my fuel pump sender at the same time and now that works reliably.
@@alafrostysounds like a nightmare, I will be at that point soon I have been soaking the flares at the abs and have jacked the rear up on jackstands and unbolted all the stuff on the rear - I am waiting to have sent to me a 14mm flare line socket hoping to get the rear line loose at the abs, there seems to be no way to get any wrench etc near the rear line all tucked up under the cab - it’s a poor location to try and work. 😮
Could you tell me what side of the Master Cylinder is the Front port line and which is the rear port brake line? I appreciate any feedback. The one closest to Firewall seems like front port
My MC lines are pre-labeled Front Port and Rear Port. Your ABS Diagram says master cylinder rear is on the bottom left of the ABS. Does that mean Master Cylinder rear brakes supply line or MC rear port line? They are not the same. The Rear port is for the Front bakes.
I am seeing that I did not help you with my initial response. You are right about the line closest to the firewall running the front brakes. That one goes lower left. Sorry for the confusion.
@@growntogether9913 thanks so much for your diagrams, list rear & front. I actually color coded the ABS and the lines, but should have color coded the actual Master cylinder also. Again thanks
@@sirdir5004 You bleed all. Start farthest away to closest. ABS cycle can be done by a person who has a capable scan tool. I didn’t need to do this. My downhill gravel driveway would kick it in and everything worked appropriately.
So just curious though after you installed all the new brake lines, obviously you have No Break fluid in the system, did you bleed the ABS MODULE ❓AND HOW DID YOU DO THAT ❓
I did not remove anything other than the plastic fender liners. I used the open end of a box wrench to remove the brake lines from the ABS unit. It was a tight space, but doable.
Well I finished installing all of the brake lines, bled them finally but the pedal only got somewhat better. I’m reading that the master cylinder needs to be bled . Can anyone give me their thoughts about this.
I'm at a stopping point. How did you route the Rear Brake Line through the tiny gap where the bed meets the cab? More specific its under the area where the big rubber fuel hose runs from the gas cap to the fuel tank. The hook on the pre bent line doesn't seem feasible to go through the tiny gap. Any trick for that? Great video. Your info has been vital.
Tape the end of the new line and pull hard. It was difficult. You could have a helper twist the brake line so the hook is rotated in the most ideal position to pass through. The other option would be to loosen the body mounts and use a floor jack to lift slightly. You will get it.
I think it depends on your abilities. I had to replace wheel cylinders and cut and split the rear drums to get at them. Took me most of the day but my rust situation was severe.
Just did this yesterday on brother's Silverado. Had to unbolt steering gearbox to get line along frame before it makes it's turn under radiator core support. What a bitch getting lines in and tight on ABS unit. Come on GM! Did you really need to put ABS unit where you did??!! Plenty of room right below master cylinder!!!
Probably the same idiot who decided there was nothing wrong with putting a thick bundle of wires directly under the starter so that replacing it is much more a pain than necessary.
Glad u did it in the driveway. Most of us don't have a lift. Thanks for taking the time for video
Great video. No annoying music. Straight to the point. No unnecessary intro. Diagrams were quality. You addressed the rear line which I was debating on whether the tank would have to be dropped or not. Thanks for making this video for us.
Great video. Thanks for all your diagrams. Very useful, and that trick with the rear brake line pulling through.
Great video - thank you! Just did this job on a 2000 Suburban after watching a bunch of UA-cam videos. I'm a decent DIY mechanic but have never done this job before. I used Dorman SS set. It happened on vacation, so I was working in a driveway with limited tools, no power tools and jack stands, did the job in about 8 hours including bleeding. Dorman set fit pretty well and, surprisingly, all lines went in fairly easy. Some minor bending required. Good to have flare nut (line) wrenches as well as stubbies. Touchy part with SS lines is aligning some of the flare nuts at ABS unit - if they are not aligned PERFECTLY - you will likely cross thread the nut. If the nut does not go in by hand, carefully examine the tube alignment and bend to align until nut threads by hand - it would be very easy to cross thread into aluminum ABS housing. I spent about 30 minutes aligning the last line and it was easiest to get to - luckily the others were easier. Take a nut off of one of the removed lines to chase the threads if you chowder them even slightly. When the tubing is aligned the nut will thread easily by hand - avoid wrench until well started. This should not be too much of a problem with line that is softer than SS. If I had to do this again and could plan ahead, I would Use NiCo line and a double flaring tool and make my own lines - I think that would make the job much easier. Another video says that the GM coated lines are easier to work with and that makes sense. The diagram in this video was perfect for my application, but also pay attention to stacking order in the clips on the side of the frame rail. Hope this helps someone.
That simple diagram just saved me so much freaking time. THANK YOU for making this video.
sr out all the videos I been checking yours offers the best yet simple explanation of the diagram of the lines one guy had over 10 holes in a lift sticky note could not make sense of anything awful and confusing yet this is the one that really made sense to me thanks.
Successful followed your instructions. I also had to install the two rear line over rear axle.due to corroded fittings with brake line and bleeder screws on rear drums.
After removing the rear brake lines, I used tv coaxial cable tied to one to get an accurate measurement of the length. Worked great.
just bought a 99 silverado extended cab it sat for 5 years and all lines are gone. awesome video im a new subscriber
The stainless kits are preferable so they don’t rust out again - I just started my truck yesterday and gonna try the nickel copper ones this time
@@kellismith4329 I have just put the ez-fit kit on my truck easy to bend.
For the rear line, remove 2 bed bolts and lift bed an inch or so. I used a 2x4 and wedged bed up. Then you can get in a little easier.
Thanks for the diagram. I was doing fuel line and cut it all out to pull the ABS just to get it out of my way until I got to the new lines. One tip though. Remove the 6 or 8 bed bolts and slide the bed back and jack up the side for more room and easier feeding.
Totally agree lifting the bed a bit would help, but getting some of the fasteners out is a problem. A few just spin due to rust. The brine solution that took out the fuel and brake lines also got at the bed bolts. Joys of the rust belt I guess.
Bed up isn't happening in the rust belt.
Just agreeing with previous positive posts! Thanks a lot for sharing!!!
Absolute c**t of a job but me and the old man got it done. Took a whole weekend. Video helped a lot. Just be patient and have a good head rest/knee board. You'll be on your back and hands and knees a lot.
thank you ; Thanks for the diagram. did a screen shot of it to take under the truck with me. made this job easy.
I Need to do this job in my 2000 Tahoe, I really appreciate the video, I will take the task, and do it. The lines are too rusty to keep driving like that, i dont wanted any surprises later. Now I'm motivated to do it. Thanks for the video
Glad to help!
When i do silverado lines, it helps a lot to remove the drivers side bed bolts, loosen the passenger side, and just slip the rear line between the bed and the frame. A lot less time consuming than messing around trying to get the bends past the fuel tank
You only need to take out 3 drivers side bolts you can lift the bed a foot high easy without dikin with the bolts on the other side of the truck
@@rokitman5753 besides the three bolts did you have to remove the gas refill assembly, and bumper
Thanks! Getting ready to replace 2001 Silverado ….. appreciate your diagrams 👍
Excellent video and very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to document and share. Happy New Year!
Awesome video thank you especially the information in the comments about the master cylinder orientation
Looks like overall rust is you problem in general. Appreciate the video.
Well done, you accomplished a very challenging task in a very unfavorable environment.
Wish I would found your video a day sooner. I wanted to route my lines back to the way they were but forgot how. I think what I did will work but wont know till I set the cab down. The section at the front of the cab is all I'm worried about. Its kind of tight in that area and I'm afraid the lines will rub against the frame. I seen on another video to put a sliced vacuum hose over the pipe where it might rub. I think doing that and I will be ok. But still wish I seen your video so I could of done it factory. By the way, I bought the cop/nic lines and bent them myself.
Good video.
Splitting a piece of hose is a good idea. Cheap and effective.
Thanks for your video and the diagram..Great Info.
I've been trying to do this same project on a GMC Sierra 3500 dump truck. The Dorman 919-159 kit in theory should have been easy, but pulling the new pre-formed into place has been near impossible doing the work solo. Several of the sections are quite long and involve many complex turns and tight positioning between body and frame. Sounds like having a helper like yours might be the secret to success.
I think another person who can help makes a huge difference. You can feed them the line and both sides can adjust as needed. The other potential option would be to loosely wire or zip tie sections up so they don’t sag while you are working them into place. I’ve used shop magnets in the past to quickly hold something up too.
Use a string/wire tie to the old one when you pull it out, then rearrach it to the new one and pull back through you’ll keep the same route
14mm, bastards! It’s the only sized flare wrench I didn’t have
Thanks I was going to do just a spice but I changed my mind to do a full brake line replacement would be a better way to go thx for the video now I know what is up
Don’tuse a compression fitting to splice, parts are not expensive just replace the lines with stainless steel or nicopp lines, GM dropped the ball on these and cheaped out
Great video. thanks for sharing
Very nicely explained, Thank you. DF
Thank you very much that will help a lot
MISTAKE ON YOUR DIAGRAM AT 1:24.. MASTER REAR AND MASTER FRONT NEED TO SWITCHED PLACES?
My brake lines look like they came from the bottom of the ocean. They're so rusted and corroded and now they leak. I'm up next I'm following your video hopefully this works
Your sir did a great job thank your
Great video!
This video is exactly what I was looking for. Also were you able to bleed the brakes the typical way or did you have to bleed the Abs unit as well? Great Video. Thanks
Glad it helped. I had to cut the rear drums and replace the cylinders to bleed the brakes. Things were pretty rusty and the bleeders were just nubs. We bled the brakes as usual. My daughter held the pedal while I bled the lines. The pedal was a bit spongy for a few commutes but it firmed up once the Drum brakes got used a bit.
Stupid GM abs pumps... You can just bleed the brakes as usual with no scan tools. There will be air trapped in the abs pump, but that won’t matter until the ABS activates. I just carried a few wrenches with me so i could re bleed out in the field when the ABS triggered, because it shot a bunch of air into my lines. They should work normally before that happens though.
@@infl I heard the thing to do is drive out to an empty gravel road and speed up a bit and press the brake pedal hard enough for the ABS to engage and keep doing that until the pedal firms up.
@@goodnamesareallgone1 Yeah if air is trapped in the ABS pump, triggering it will send the air into a part of the system where it is removable by bleeding. I’ve seen some people on the internet saying after their ABS pump triggered their pedal got firm. But there’s still going to be air in the system... Makes me wonder what they consider a firm pedal 😂
tl dr: low traction method works good. Triggering the abs may finish bleeding your brakes for you. But it might also make your brakes inoperable. so i wouldn’t put money on it working. Bring tools, brake fluid and a friend if you use this method.
In ABS pumps, there is a pump with a series of check valves and electronic valves. There is one valve that will block the direct flow of high pressure brake fluid to the wheels. There is also a check valve on each side of the actual pump. The intake of the pump is connected through a check valve to a small reservoir, and that reservoir is connected directly to the brake lines feeding the wheels. The output of the pump connects to the line from the master cylinder through another check valve. When the ABS is triggered, the blocking valve shuts. Then, the pump turns on. It sucks the fluid from the wheel lines, causing pressure to drop and the wheel can spin easier. The blocking valve gets turned on and off many times a second to ensure the brake pressure going to the wheels does not drop all the way down, or go into a vacuum. The fluid from the pump is forced back to the master cylinder, and increases brake pressure on the master side. this is what causes the vibration feeling in the pedal. If you can not activate the valves and pumps the OEM way (a fancy expensive scanner), the gravel/snowy road method works excellently. But the air doesn’t magically disappear from the system. You certainly have to bleed the brakes again after doing the ABS bleed, and it may push so much air into your lines that your brakes are barely working. So when I went out and drove right after doing my lines and bleeding the best i could, i knew i had to bring tools to bleed with me. Glad i did too, it dumped a stupid amount of air into my lines. I had to put it in neutral to get the thing to stop rolling.
One way the ABS pump triggering could fix the spongy brakes for you: The part of the pump where you cannot bleed regularly is the reservoir/pump. When it activates, the air gets sucked out of all these areas and forced back to the master cylinder. Since the ABS pump location in GM trucks allows for the master cylinder feed lines to go downhill the whole way, the air could theoretically go all the way to the master cylinder with the help of gravity causing brake fluid to displace it. if the pump didn’t get it there already. But in a lot of vehicles, and some circumstances even in GM trucks, this is not the case, and you will still have a shit ton of air in the system.
What is the GM part number for this 99 thru 2006 kit? I assume yours is an extend cab?
Nice vid .wat r the other 2 lines that go to the cylinder called?
Watching this because my front drivers side body mount caved in and that “tight space” your talking about crushed at least one of my brake lines.
So yes, replace your body mounts to avoid some bs like this. 🤦♂️
I wish that you'd filmed removing the lines from the "tight spot" .. I can't get mine out of there and I need to so that I can run the new ones in. I'm stumped!
Loosen the wiring harnesses going through and roll them out of the way. There should be enough room to wiggle and twist the lines through. Ask someone else to help from the other end. You will get it.
@@growntogether9913 I did not get them out! The two wiring harnesses were not in the way! After much struggling, I ended up cutting all the lines at the bend in the tight spot and pulling them forward and backward from there. One of the "intact" lines started leaking from this "tight" location as soon as I started to try to get one of the lines out, so at that point, it was game-over anyway.
I have not seen anyone pull these lines through here on a 1500, either install or removal, so I seriously can't figure out whether my truck is unusually tight/bent or whether there's some trick to it that nobody realizes they're doing.
Before I chopped them, they seriously wouldn't move. Someone had done a repair on one of the lines and instead of pulling it out, they'd just cut the line before and behind the tight spot and added a new line, not routed through this spot. When I first saw it, I thought "what a hack" and now that I've been unsuccessful at removing them, I completely understand why they ran the hack instead of trying to get 4-way cluster F'd by that turn.
@@alafrostythere are plastic retainers the line is pressed in to holding it to the frame, you just have to try and locate them and release them. Not easy to access, some folks drop the gastank, or lift one side of the cab or truckbox
@@kellismith4329 There is zero distance between the top of the plastic retainer and the front of the cab's weld seam. It was impossible to lift the lines out of the clip because the cab seam was in the way. I ended up cutting the lines off, pulling them through the clip. and then yanking the clip off as there wasn't even enough room to undo the clip. My truck is a 2000, so I'll bet they figured out (later) that this configuration made the lines impossible to replace and changed it up, but I'd like to have seen how it was done on a later truck.
I undid all the bed bolts and removed the left side bolts, pivoted up the bed and had loads of clearance for the rear line. I cleaned my fuel pump sender at the same time and now that works reliably.
@@alafrostysounds like a nightmare, I will be at that point soon I have been soaking the flares at the abs and have jacked the rear up on jackstands and unbolted all the stuff on the rear - I am waiting to have sent to me a 14mm flare line socket hoping to get the rear line loose at the abs, there seems to be no way to get any wrench etc near the rear line all tucked up under the cab - it’s a poor location to try and work. 😮
Excellent!
Can we get a part number
Very informative video how much did you pay for the kit
Why is no one talking about the brake line brackets? 2 in the frame I had to cut, the 1 under the cab with the square nut???
Could you tell me what side of the Master Cylinder is the Front port line and which is the rear port brake line? I appreciate any feedback. The one closest to Firewall seems like front port
The front is closest to you when you are looking in the engine bay. Rear will be the one closest to the firewall.
My MC lines are pre-labeled Front Port and Rear Port. Your ABS Diagram says master cylinder rear is on the bottom left of the ABS. Does that mean Master Cylinder rear brakes supply line or MC rear port line? They are not the same. The Rear port is for the Front bakes.
I am seeing that I did not help you with my initial response. You are right about the line closest to the firewall running the front brakes. That one goes lower left. Sorry for the confusion.
@@growntogether9913 thanks so much for your diagrams, list rear & front. I actually color coded the ABS and the lines, but should have color coded the actual Master cylinder also. Again thanks
@@growntogether9913 AllDataDiy gave step by step instructions but confused directions using primary, secondary , and numbers 1 and 2????
I'm blocking off my rears entirely. Which line is it I should plug?
how do i get the two clamps under the cab to open up?
Thanks man
What diameter brake lines and fittings from the ABS to the rear calipers? Thx
Not sure. I used the OEM kit from the dealership. There was no need to check thread for the replacement lines.
Depends in the braking system, the system can be id’d by the code in the glovebox
If I install the axle break lines will I have to bleed my brakes or any of that or would I be good to go right after installing the line?
@@sirdir5004 You have to bleed for sure and may need to cycle the abs. I was able
To bleed and had no issues.
@@growntogether9913 would I need to bleed all of the brakes or just the one that the line goes too? How would I cycle the abs thank you for the help
@@sirdir5004 You bleed all. Start farthest away to closest. ABS cycle can be done by a person who has a capable scan tool. I didn’t need to do this. My downhill gravel driveway would kick it in and everything worked appropriately.
@@growntogether9913 thank you!
So just curious though after you installed all the new brake lines, obviously you have No Break fluid in the system, did you bleed the ABS
MODULE ❓AND HOW DID YOU DO THAT ❓
Just like you normally would
Did you have to bleed the abs pump?
No, but we did bleed it several times including after driving it for a few days. We had no problems. When the snow flew ABS worked as usual.
Did you have a spongy pedal the reason you bled them several times?
All videos should be this length with this much info, spending 20 minutes on a video for no e of thr relevant information is painful
Did you have to move the torsion bar to get at abs box ?
I did not remove anything other than the plastic fender liners. I used the open end of a box wrench to remove the brake lines from the ABS unit. It was a tight space, but doable.
No easy way, the engineers worked overtime to come up with the most inaccessible location
Where did you find a pre fab line
@@FarmerHam Dealer had a coated wire kit. Very reasonable price.
Well I finished installing all of the brake lines, bled them finally but the pedal only got somewhat better. I’m reading that the master cylinder needs to be bled . Can anyone give me their thoughts about this.
Hi , I am disabled now the right side front had gone bad I have the kit coming, can you please come help me fix my truck??
Where did you find the replacement lines?
Buy the coated brake line kit from a dealer. $125 was cost.
Great question. Thanks for asking that. I was wandering that myself.
I'm at a stopping point. How did you route the Rear Brake Line through the tiny gap where the bed meets the cab? More specific its under the area where the big rubber fuel hose runs from the gas cap to the fuel tank. The hook on the pre bent line doesn't seem feasible to go through the tiny gap. Any trick for that? Great video. Your info has been vital.
Tape the end of the new line and pull hard. It was difficult. You could have a helper twist the brake line so the hook is rotated in the most ideal position to pass through. The other option would be to loosen the body mounts and use a floor jack to lift slightly. You will get it.
@@growntogether9913 thanks
Where did you order the brake lines from? Thanks in advance
A dealership nearby
How long did it take ?
I think it depends on your abilities. I had to replace wheel cylinders and cut and split the rear drums to get at them. Took me most of the day but my rust situation was severe.
Just did this yesterday on brother's Silverado. Had to unbolt steering gearbox to get line along frame before it makes it's turn under radiator core support. What a bitch getting lines in and tight on ABS unit. Come on GM! Did you really need to put ABS unit where you did??!! Plenty of room right below master cylinder!!!
We had similar gripes directed toward the engineers.
Probably the same idiot who decided there was nothing wrong with putting a thick bundle of wires directly under the starter so that replacing it is much more a pain than necessary.
Copper Nickel e z bend lines ? Save the headache
wow thats a rusty machine...