Inspiring, thanks for sharing! Last year I've started crafting my own outdoor gear, made 2 quilt sleeping bags (1 for summer and 1 for winter), it is so rewarding to craft your own gear !
Fantastic work!!! Particularly impressed that you’ve made your own design instead of reproducing what’s already available. Awesome!!! Kinda east regards Dean Wales, UK
Thank you so much for all your build documentation! It's so useful to see all the methods you use for contstruction and inspiring to your designs come to life.
In Blender I create a first stab at a shape. Then I bend pole sections between ground points held to the floor with duct tape. Then photograph the poles and use the photo as a background in Blender to modify my initial guesses to the actual pole bends. The final step is to flatten the tent panels which I do with a Python script. This gives me the exact flat shapes for the patterns. Then cut out the fabric and assemble the tent. That's it!
Id say make a free standing with fly to avoid condensation in the mold of say the big Agnes seed house for time with no fly is needed and add the carbon poles to get the lightest set up. game changer in ultra light thru hiking. I have the zpacks hemmid and the first solo tent they both have condensation problems. I also have the big Agnes seed house two with custom carbon poles take the mold of the BA and make it in cubes fiber with carbon poles and you have a winner.😇
Condensation can be a major problem. However, from my experience it seems to vary from person to person. I have almost no problem with condensation myself. And all my tents are single wall and I usually camp near water. I should have drips and pools of water on the floor. But I've never experienced more than a moist sheen on the inside wall. I've never had a single drip fall on me nor any accumulation of moisture on a tent floor. I can only assume this is because I sweat a lot less than most people and also drink very little water. I just don't get thirsty like other folks. I also incorporate very good ventilation in all my tents which also helps. It's important that air flow is as direct as possible and that it doesn't have to change direction. The open ground level vents and roof outlets I use are quite effective. I make my tents for my own use and single wall works for me, and saves a lot of complexity and weight. But if condensation is a problem for you, then you are correct that you would probably need a fly.
@@cubenmaker1164 yeah I just completed colorado trail in august tons of rain and tons of condensation in my zpacks pleximid solo. sad $600.00 tent and those problems. I completed the PCT, Arizona trail x2, tahoe rim, colorado and three sections of the AT with my original zpack cf solo tent with little condensation issues. I did have a bug net floor initially in that model. That was probably the reason for little condensation issues? I wonder if one was to fashion a two wall freestanding tent with using CF as floor and fly with bug netting similar to big Agnes copper spur 1 person with side entry and vestibule while using carbon fiber poles like I have with my BA seed house ul if that wouldn't be the perfect free standing tent available? I'll bet the market would go nuts for one? I know I would. Take care, John
@@romererunamerika9437 As I suggested in my previous reply, I think ventilation needs to be direct to be effective. By that I mean the mesh should be vertical. You should be able to look out of the vent as you would look out a window. This means you need some kind of baffle or overhang to keep out rain. My tents incorporate both these features. And the area should be a large as possible. My DomeFive has a huge door vent with an overhang to keep out rain. The rear vent is right near your head while sleeping, so you can feel the air blowing over you. And both vents are vertical, so air can just flow through with little resistance caused by changes in direction. Most tent have vents where the air flow is indirect. Either it comes up from a vent between the floor and wall (as in zpacks) or vents are mostly inside a fly, where there would be almost no air flow (like Big Agnes). However, your tent concept sounds fine, if enough people are prepared to pay the premium for double walled DCF.
очень грамотно и качествено продумали. 5+! я бы только в средине сменил бы среднюю дугу и сменил бы немного конфигурацию по ткани и добавил бы вентиляции. Но идея крутая.
Thank you very much for the inspiration and sharing the information. I would like to build my own tent using Tyvek HomeWrap material (more of a low cost but still lightweight tent). I would just like to ask what thickness of fiberglass/carbon rods you recommend to use. In relation to weight/strength. Regards from the Czech Republic and wish you many more good ideas.
I made initial prototypes of most of my tents using Tyvek. I used butt joint seams (no overlap) joined with transparent duct tape. However, I would never use either Tyvek for a final tent skin or fiberglass for poles as these materials are much too heavy for my purposes. I only use 0.51oz DCF for tent walls and 0.296" diameter carbon poles. All my material sources are listed on my web page www.cubenmaker.com. Good luck with your project.
So it looks like your using an Adhesive Transfer Tape to attach 1 piece of material to another. How does the type hold up over time? Does the bond degrade?
great video, can i ask were you get your polls from. do you just figure out your legnth and orderthem from some place. I would like to make a modified tipi.
Very cool and unique. I've noticed that the floor seems to be a little bit too low at the door. If you're camping in heavy rain, this might be a problem.
That's a good observation. The height of the door sill is limited by the need to get the ends of the internal poles into the tent during setup (see the setup part of the video). For my next project I plan a different method for installing the poles so I will be able to have a higher sill. With this tent, the door could still be kept open in light rain (with the overhang set up), and only closed to keep out heavy or wind driven rain.
You could make the DomeFive tent using only the info in the video, including the pattern coordinates and the pole lengths. You can download the hub .stl files from my web site www.cubenmaker.com. You only need Blender or other 3D modeling software if you want to make your own design.
Thanks for your comment. I've moved from from tents to playing around with Japanese themed woodworking projects. And I continue to do a lot of cross country walking, some of which is documented on my web site www.roadwalking.com and UA-cam channel Traveling on Foot.
I haven't had this tent in strong wind. But the shape is quite streamlined and the porch pole can be removed and the beak folded down and attached to the tent with Velcro. Also the internal poles make the structure very rigid, which would also help in strong wind.
I'm sure there are lot's of commercial tents that would satisfy your criteria. My purpose is to showcase techniques that anyone can use to design and build their own tent. The actual designs I present meet my own requirements, and are mostly meant as examples to show methods and materials.
Really amazing, Blender 3D software is great. I make have made about 15 different ultralight backpacks and have made them from my own design on paper. How hard it to learn the software? How much did your poles weight for your tent? Thanks, Michael
Thanks for the comment Michael. Blender is quite complex and there is a bit of a learning curve. Even though I've been using CAD software all my adult life my Blender skills are just average, and I probably use about 1 percent of what it can do. But if all you want to do is make simple meshes, it's not too hard. And there are tons of UA-cam tutorials. The poles for my DomeFive tent weigh 255 grams, and with the hubs about 290 grams. So the poles and hubs together are almost half the weight of the tent.
Would you ever consider working on another tent project if all the materials and things were provided in development of a hybrid tent? It would be nice to make a dome tent with a blue dyneema rain fly with front door with overhang and two side enterances with good size vestibules. The tent body out of 15 d mesh and the tub floor of the tent out of a strong 68 d fabric& aluminum poles I wonder if the dyneema will degrade over time and how UV resistant it would be. I figured out to make it a 2 person tent. With dimensions of 84in length 60 in wide peak height of 42 inches. With the heavy duty zippers and bungy cord guide points.
Curious about the 3M double sided tape. In your narrative, and on your website, you reference 3M 9472LE but in this construction video this lettering, 3M 300LSE, is on the removable paper strip on the tape. Did you switch tapes? Is it the same product? Thanks for the helpful information!
I believe the designation 300LSE refers to the actual adhesive, which is used in different tapes. 3M 9472LE is the actual tape you would order (say from uline.com)
@@cubenmaker1164 Thanks for the reply. I did go on Uline to order some tape using the 9472LE number, and it arrived with that 300LSE printed on the removeable strip. So I”m not sure what that means. Do you know anything about the double sided tape that needs a heat press to cure? The Dyneema site states that it is the strongest bond available, but says nothign more about it. I can’t find anything about the tape or the press. Whatever you can do to point me at information would be helpful. And by the way, I truly enjoyed your videos and projects. Are you working on anything new?
@@bendrixbailey1430 No new projects at the moment. There is a tape provided by the DCF manufacturer that recommends heat curing, but I've tried it (without heat curing) and find it very hard to work with. The 3M tape I use works just fine without heat. As I mentioned, 300LSE is the type of adhesive the tape is made with, not the tape itself, which is designated 9472LE. I was also confused about that at first.
@@cubenmaker1164 So, I did hear you mention that pressure/heat cure tape in your tent construction video and its not surprising that the tape was not of much use without the pressure/heat cure. The project I intent to build is a shelter to use on open, very windy, gusty, high altitude open saddles. It may be my lack of experience with the double sided tape you used but I’m just concerned about that tape holding up to a 60mph gust. That’s why I’m interested in the claim that the pressure/heat tape is superior. Thanks for answering the question as best you could. Since you have extensive knowledge of materials and suppliers, would you recommend a person or company that i might inquire of? In your kayak video you mentioned that you moved to dcf kayaks because the inflatable packraft was not great for speed and tracking. That’s for sure. I think your kayak is amazing. As a new project have you considered making a dcf packraft? Do you think the material and seams would hold up in that application? Packrafts are already amazing light, but a dcf raft would be insane.
I don't know where you could get definitive answers to your questions. The heat presses I've seen demonstrated for the DCF supplied tape are pieces of industrial equipment and not practical for a home builder, which is why that route wouldn't work for me. Zpacks.com used the 3M tape, which is what got me onto it. I initially got my tape from them, until they stopped selling materials. I think they use a combination of tape and sewing, but I'm not sure. Or you could just sew the seams. But you will need a sewing machine and the skills, and then you would have to seam seal. This was also not an option I wanted to pursue. Or you could just make a quick tarp with just the tape and test it out in the kind of wind you expect. That's what I would do.
The tent has mesh vents for ventilation that help to reduce condensation. Air passes easily through the length of this tent between the rear vents and the front door vent. If there's any wind at all you can feel the air movement passing over you. I've used both this tent and my DomeFour close to bodies of water where the humidity should be somewhat high. In the morning I see a sheen of moisture on the walls, but the headroom is sufficient that avoiding contacting the walls is not difficult. I've never seen actual drips from the walls or pools of condensation on the floors. I like the light weight, ease of setup and general simplicity of single walled tents, but I probably sweat less than most people so my experience with minimal condensation may not be typical.
@@foggs The tape isn't a mechanical connection like a sewed seam. It can even be pulled apart if done very slowly so as not to delaminate the fibers from the fabric substrate. That's why taped seams should always be designed to be in shear, and not tension where there are peeling forces. As long as there is no concentration of forces in a small area, I have found the 3M 9472LE tape that I use to be strong enough even for the skins of my kayaks, which have much greater loads than tent seams. But the best answer is to get some tape and fabric do some tests on it yourself.
Love the ingenuity Tim and that you were willing to share some best practices. Two quick questions - what are the anchor devices you have indoors (minute 1:33) to hold your poles in place? I would like to get myself some of those. Do you order your poles custom, based on your 3D design, or do you get the poles first then build the 3D design around the poles? Thanks so much!
I used pieces of foam with holes and stuck to the floor pattern with double sided tape. I've also used duct tape to hold the pole bases to the floor. I use aluminum poles to get the pole setup right, but carbon for the final poles. The way the poles bend determines the final design. I think this is explained better on my web site cubenmaker.com.
Yep. I love it. It’s the right colour too! I would be interested in reviewing it or buying one from you to review. Could you use 0.8 oz DCF or the 0.7 oz DCF with the thicker 0.18 oz Mylar protective layer which increases abrasion resistance and repeated folding wear and thus improves longevity. Regards, Blue Boy
I make tents just for fun and for my own use, so I can't sell you one. It would be hard to review this tent without actually trying it out, but I've used it a few times and could answer any questions you may have. Any type of DCF could be used, but I want my tents as light as possible, so I use the 0.51 oz fabric for walls and 0.8 oz for floors. Abrasion isn't really an issue for walls.
@@cubenmaker1164 Yes, I did. But thought it was mainly to show off the tent, rather than a trip to use the tent; where things can go wrong, the weather (rain, wind, condensation) , terrain etc throw a curve ball at you, things that worked, things you'd change etc. Your videos are inspirational, I was on the edge of attempting to make a version of a dome 4 for ages and did some research. At then end though I chickened out and bought a Dyneema tent. I just didn't want to risk the money and end up with nothing but a mess, but, who knows one day, perhaps!. Many thanks for the insight in to the process.
I can't personally attest to how well DCF stands up to the elements as I only camp in nice weather myself. But many people have been using tents made of this material for through hikes for years, and it stands up just fine as long as the design is sound.
Yes, but that would negate a major advantage of DCF. Sewing requires a machine that many people don't have (including myself). Sewed seams need to be sealed to make them waterproof, and the holes might weaken the fabric and enlarge over time. However, I think ZPacks uses a combination of sewn and taped seams. But taping is easy, plenty strong enough and is inherently waterproof.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. You use 3M double tape to join the fabrics, do have any issue with that (durability,waterproofness, etc)? Is it work for other fabrics? lets say with nylon pu coating.
Seams made with the 3M tape on Dyneema Fabric are totally waterproof and plenty strong enough for the forces on a tent, however I usually reinforce points where there are peeling forces. The tape works best on smooth fabrics, but not so well on TPU coatings from my experience. It's best to do tests with a sample of fabric before making something.
Inspiring, thanks for sharing! Last year I've started crafting my own outdoor gear, made 2 quilt sleeping bags (1 for summer and 1 for winter), it is so rewarding to craft your own gear !
Fantastic work!!! Particularly impressed that you’ve made your own design instead of reproducing what’s already available. Awesome!!!
Kinda east regards
Dean
Wales, UK
Thanks for the comments. Actually, the design aspect is what interests me the most. I don't make stuff to have stuff, but to try out ideas.
Thank you so much for all your build documentation! It's so useful to see all the methods you use for contstruction and inspiring to your designs come to life.
Thanks for the comment! I love making stuff and like to share what I'm doing in case it might be helpful or provide inspiration to others.
I would love for you to share how you create the designs in blender. This is exactly the video i was looking for, thank you!
In Blender I create a first stab at a shape. Then I bend pole sections between ground points held to the floor with duct tape. Then photograph the poles and use the photo as a background in Blender to modify my initial guesses to the actual pole bends. The final step is to flatten the tent panels which I do with a Python script. This gives me the exact flat shapes for the patterns. Then cut out the fabric and assemble the tent. That's it!
Thank you, would love a detailed vid on it though like a step by step especially the python script would be really helpful
holy cow this is mind blowing! solid work dude.
Incredible work and quality 👍🏼 Amazing design. I struggle making a rectangular tarp 😅
Thank you for posting this!
Wow, incredible skills!
Super cool! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I feel so dumb. Some people are so smart. Amazing tent building skills.
To paraphrase: probably 10 percent smart and 90 percent determined! Thanks for the kind words.
This is amazing! Excellent work, perfect pitch too!
Thanks. Designing the tent using 3D modeling software makes it easier to get a smooth shape that will pitch well.
Really great work!
Thanks so much!
great work!!
Great work!
Great idea, complimet! Greetings
This is amazing, very inspiring !!!
Id say make a free standing with fly to avoid condensation in the mold of say the big Agnes seed house for time with no fly is needed and add the carbon poles to get the lightest set up. game changer in ultra light thru hiking. I have the zpacks hemmid and the first solo tent they both have condensation problems. I also have the big Agnes seed house two with custom carbon poles take the mold of the BA and make it in cubes fiber with carbon poles and you have a winner.😇
Condensation can be a major problem. However, from my experience it seems to vary from person to person. I have almost no problem with condensation myself. And all my tents are single wall and I usually camp near water. I should have drips and pools of water on the floor. But I've never experienced more than a moist sheen on the inside wall. I've never had a single drip fall on me nor any accumulation of moisture on a tent floor. I can only assume this is because I sweat a lot less than most people and also drink very little water. I just don't get thirsty like other folks. I also incorporate very good ventilation in all my tents which also helps. It's important that air flow is as direct as possible and that it doesn't have to change direction. The open ground level vents and roof outlets I use are quite effective.
I make my tents for my own use and single wall works for me, and saves a lot of complexity and weight. But if condensation is a problem for you, then you are correct that you would probably need a fly.
@@cubenmaker1164 yeah I just completed colorado trail in august tons of rain and tons of condensation in my zpacks pleximid solo. sad $600.00 tent and those problems. I completed the PCT, Arizona trail x2, tahoe rim, colorado and three sections of the AT with my original zpack cf solo tent with little condensation issues. I did have a bug net floor initially in that model. That was probably the reason for little condensation issues? I wonder if one was to fashion a two wall freestanding tent with using CF as floor and fly with bug netting similar to big Agnes copper spur 1 person with side entry and vestibule while using carbon fiber poles like I have with my BA seed house ul if that wouldn't be the perfect free standing tent available? I'll bet the market would go nuts for one? I know I would. Take care, John
@@romererunamerika9437 As I suggested in my previous reply, I think ventilation needs to be direct to be effective. By that I mean the mesh should be vertical. You should be able to look out of the vent as you would look out a window. This means you need some kind of baffle or overhang to keep out rain. My tents incorporate both these features. And the area should be a large as possible. My DomeFive has a huge door vent with an overhang to keep out rain. The rear vent is right near your head while sleeping, so you can feel the air blowing over you. And both vents are vertical, so air can just flow through with little resistance caused by changes in direction. Most tent have vents where the air flow is indirect. Either it comes up from a vent between the floor and wall (as in zpacks) or vents are mostly inside a fly, where there would be almost no air flow (like Big Agnes).
However, your tent concept sounds fine, if enough people are prepared to pay the premium for double walled DCF.
очень грамотно и качествено продумали. 5+! я бы только в средине сменил бы среднюю дугу и сменил бы немного конфигурацию по ткани и добавил бы вентиляции. Но идея крутая.
English please!
You should be able to tap Translate to English below the other language to see a translation.
You are amazing!
Thanks! I have a lot of fun making my projects, and I hope my videos show that anyone can make their own super light gear.
nice work! Vancouver represent
omg. this is amazing video. thank you.
Excelent¡¡¡
Thank you very much for the inspiration and sharing the information. I would like to build my own tent using Tyvek HomeWrap material (more of a low cost but still lightweight tent). I would just like to ask what thickness of fiberglass/carbon rods you recommend to use. In relation to weight/strength. Regards from the Czech Republic and wish you many more good ideas.
I made initial prototypes of most of my tents using Tyvek. I used butt joint seams (no overlap) joined with transparent duct tape. However, I would never use either Tyvek for a final tent skin or fiberglass for poles as these materials are much too heavy for my purposes. I only use 0.51oz DCF for tent walls and 0.296" diameter carbon poles. All my material sources are listed on my web page www.cubenmaker.com. Good luck with your project.
Amazing project, I wonder why you didn't use the same vent scheme for the foot as you did for the entrance?
So it looks like your using an Adhesive Transfer Tape to attach 1 piece of material to another. How does the type hold up over time? Does the bond degrade?
Check out my web site www.cubenmaker.com and email me if you still have questions.
great video, can i ask were you get your polls from. do you just figure out your legnth and orderthem from some place. I would like to make a modified tipi.
All my material sources are on my website cubenmaker.com. My tent projects on the website include pole information.
Very cool and unique. I've noticed that the floor seems to be a little bit too low at the door. If you're camping in heavy rain, this might be a problem.
That's a good observation. The height of the door sill is limited by the need to get the ends of the internal poles into the tent during setup (see the setup part of the video). For my next project I plan a different method for installing the poles so I will be able to have a higher sill. With this tent, the door could still be kept open in light rain (with the overhang set up), and only closed to keep out heavy or wind driven rain.
Hello. Absolutely ingenious. What are you using for the tent floor? Cuben?
Thank you
Yes. The floor is a slightly heavier weight DCF fabric.
I actually like that design. Maybe I need to learn to use blender over the winter as it would be nice to have a lighter tent.
You could make the DomeFive tent using only the info in the video, including the pattern coordinates and the pole lengths. You can download the hub .stl files from my web site www.cubenmaker.com. You only need Blender or other 3D modeling software if you want to make your own design.
Cubenmaker thank you for that. Didn’t realize it. Might be my winter project
Great info!
You are interesting in your design and thoughts. What have you been up to for the last 4 years?
Thanks for your comment. I've moved from from tents to playing around with Japanese themed woodworking projects. And I continue to do a lot of cross country walking, some of which is documented on my web site www.roadwalking.com and UA-cam channel Traveling on Foot.
Cool project but the wind performance will surely be terrible?
I haven't had this tent in strong wind. But the shape is quite streamlined and the porch pole can be removed and the beak folded down and attached to the tent with Velcro. Also the internal poles make the structure very rigid, which would also help in strong wind.
@@cubenmaker1164 the issue is when the wind turns ninety degrees which is very common in Scotland or Patagonia.
I'm sure there are lot's of commercial tents that would satisfy your criteria. My purpose is to showcase techniques that anyone can use to design and build their own tent. The actual designs I present meet my own requirements, and are mostly meant as examples to show methods and materials.
Really amazing, Blender 3D software is great. I make have made about 15 different ultralight backpacks and have made them from my own design on paper. How hard it to learn the software? How much did your poles weight for your tent?
Thanks, Michael
Thanks for the comment Michael. Blender is quite complex and there is a bit of a learning curve. Even though I've been using CAD software all my adult life my Blender skills are just average, and I probably use about 1 percent of what it can do. But if all you want to do is make simple meshes, it's not too hard. And there are tons of UA-cam tutorials.
The poles for my DomeFive tent weigh 255 grams, and with the hubs about 290 grams. So the poles and hubs together are almost half the weight of the tent.
Wah joss iki, mantap pakde
Would you ever consider working on another tent project if all the materials and things were provided in development of a hybrid tent? It would be nice to make a dome tent with a blue dyneema rain fly with front door with overhang and two side enterances with good size vestibules. The tent body out of 15 d mesh and the tub floor of the tent out of a strong 68 d fabric& aluminum poles I wonder if the dyneema will degrade over time and how UV resistant it would be.
I figured out to make it a 2 person tent. With dimensions of 84in length 60 in wide peak height of 42 inches. With the heavy duty zippers and bungy cord guide points.
Please email me at tim_evans@shaw.ca to discuss.
You are a master
Thanks for the compliment! But anyone with enough time and patience can do this. I just keep trying stuff to see what works.
Great
Whaaaaaaaaaaaaat?! Outstanding 👍
Curious about the 3M double sided tape. In your narrative, and on your website, you reference 3M 9472LE but in this construction video this lettering, 3M 300LSE, is on the removable paper strip on the tape. Did you switch tapes? Is it the same product? Thanks for the helpful information!
I believe the designation 300LSE refers to the actual adhesive, which is used in different tapes. 3M 9472LE is the actual tape you would order (say from uline.com)
@@cubenmaker1164 Thanks for the reply. I did go on Uline to order some tape using the 9472LE number, and it arrived with that 300LSE printed on the removeable strip.
So I”m not sure what that means. Do you know anything about the double sided tape that needs a heat press to cure? The Dyneema site states that it is the strongest bond available, but says nothign more about it. I can’t find anything about the tape or the press. Whatever you can do to point me at information would be helpful.
And by the way, I truly enjoyed your videos and projects. Are you working on anything new?
@@bendrixbailey1430 No new projects at the moment. There is a tape provided by the DCF manufacturer that recommends heat curing, but I've tried it (without heat curing) and find it very hard to work with. The 3M tape I use works just fine without heat. As I mentioned, 300LSE is the type of adhesive the tape is made with, not the tape itself, which is designated 9472LE. I was also confused about that at first.
@@cubenmaker1164 So, I did hear you mention that pressure/heat cure tape in your tent construction video and its not surprising that the tape was not of much use without the pressure/heat cure. The project I intent to build is a shelter to use on open, very windy, gusty, high altitude open saddles. It may be my lack of experience with the double sided tape you used but I’m just concerned about that tape holding up to a 60mph gust. That’s why I’m interested in the claim that the pressure/heat tape is superior. Thanks for answering the question as best you could. Since you have extensive knowledge of materials and suppliers, would you recommend a person or company that i might inquire of?
In your kayak video you mentioned that you moved to dcf kayaks because the inflatable packraft was not great for speed and tracking. That’s for sure. I think your kayak is amazing. As a new project have you considered making a dcf packraft? Do you think the material and seams would hold up in that application? Packrafts are already amazing light, but a dcf raft would be insane.
I don't know where you could get definitive answers to your questions. The heat presses I've seen demonstrated for the DCF supplied tape are pieces of industrial equipment and not practical for a home builder, which is why that route wouldn't work for me. Zpacks.com used the 3M tape, which is what got me onto it. I initially got my tape from them, until they stopped selling materials. I think they use a combination of tape and sewing, but I'm not sure. Or you could just sew the seams. But you will need a sewing machine and the skills, and then you would have to seam seal. This was also not an option I wanted to pursue.
Or you could just make a quick tarp with just the tape and test it out in the kind of wind you expect. That's what I would do.
I want one!!!
Sorry! I don't make anything for sale, but all the info needed to make the tent should be in the video or on my web site www.cubenmaker.com.
Utterly cool that you designed your own tent! Maybe I missed something, but where can the condensation go?
The tent has mesh vents for ventilation that help to reduce condensation. Air passes easily through the length of this tent between the rear vents and the front door vent. If there's any wind at all you can feel the air movement passing over you. I've used both this tent and my DomeFour close to bodies of water where the humidity should be somewhat high. In the morning I see a sheen of moisture on the walls, but the headroom is sufficient that avoiding contacting the walls is not difficult. I've never seen actual drips from the walls or pools of condensation on the floors. I like the light weight, ease of setup and general simplicity of single walled tents, but I probably sweat less than most people so my experience with minimal condensation may not be typical.
Super impressive! How well does the tape hold up over time?
I've never had any problems with the tape. The bond doesn't appear to deteriorate with time.
@@cubenmaker1164 any idea how it compares in terms of strength to a sewn seam?
@@foggs The tape isn't a mechanical connection like a sewed seam. It can even be pulled apart if done very slowly so as not to delaminate the fibers from the fabric substrate. That's why taped seams should always be designed to be in shear, and not tension where there are peeling forces. As long as there is no concentration of forces in a small area, I have found the 3M 9472LE tape that I use to be strong enough even for the skins of my kayaks, which have much greater loads than tent seams. But the best answer is to get some tape and fabric do some tests on it yourself.
Love the ingenuity Tim and that you were willing to share some best practices. Two quick questions - what are the anchor devices you have indoors (minute 1:33) to hold your poles in place? I would like to get myself some of those. Do you order your poles custom, based on your 3D design, or do you get the poles first then build the 3D design around the poles? Thanks so much!
I used pieces of foam with holes and stuck to the floor pattern with double sided tape. I've also used duct tape to hold the pole bases to the floor. I use aluminum poles to get the pole setup right, but carbon for the final poles. The way the poles bend determines the final design. I think this is explained better on my web site cubenmaker.com.
Truly very impressive!!! Have yo ulong time tested the 3M tape?
I've had two tents made for me and made four myself with the 3M tape (no sewed seams) and have had no problems.
@@cubenmaker1164 thats fantastic. And you used the same tape for attaching the mesh net? I didn't quit understand if you used the same tape or not.
Yep. I love it. It’s the right colour too! I would be interested in reviewing it or buying one from you to review. Could you use 0.8 oz DCF or the 0.7 oz DCF with the thicker 0.18 oz Mylar protective layer which increases abrasion resistance and repeated folding wear and thus improves longevity. Regards, Blue Boy
I make tents just for fun and for my own use, so I can't sell you one. It would be hard to review this tent without actually trying it out, but I've used it a few times and could answer any questions you may have. Any type of DCF could be used, but I want my tents as light as possible, so I use the 0.51 oz fabric for walls and 0.8 oz for floors. Abrasion isn't really an issue for walls.
@@cubenmaker1164 Yep - no worries. Just thought I would ask. Your DomeFive is beautiful to look at. Well done.
Very interesting project and video, will you be following this up with a video of it in "action"? Would be nice to see how well in works on a trip.
Did you watch the whole video? The last part shows the tent in use.
@@cubenmaker1164 Yes, I did. But thought it was mainly to show off the tent, rather than a trip to use the tent; where things can go wrong, the weather (rain, wind, condensation) , terrain etc throw a curve ball at you, things that worked, things you'd change etc.
Your videos are inspirational, I was on the edge of attempting to make a version of a dome 4 for ages and did some research. At then end though I chickened out and bought a Dyneema tent. I just didn't want to risk the money and end up with nothing but a mess, but, who knows one day, perhaps!. Many thanks for the insight in to the process.
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how well does dynema hold in heavy winds and rain?
I can't personally attest to how well DCF stands up to the elements as I only camp in nice weather myself. But many people have been using tents made of this material for through hikes for years, and it stands up just fine as long as the design is sound.
Can that fabric be sewn instead of taped together?
Yes, but that would negate a major advantage of DCF. Sewing requires a machine that many people don't have (including myself). Sewed seams need to be sealed to make them waterproof, and the holes might weaken the fabric and enlarge over time. However, I think ZPacks uses a combination of sewn and taped seams. But taping is easy, plenty strong enough and is inherently waterproof.
What happen when hard wind hit that tent?
I haven't had this particular tent out in strong wind, but I used my Diamond Solo tent in strong winds and it held up just fine.
👍🇨🇵
Where did you get the poles?
At questoutfitters.com. All my material suppliers are listed on my web site www.cubenmaker.com
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
You use 3M double tape to join the fabrics, do have any issue with that (durability,waterproofness, etc)? Is it work for other fabrics? lets say with nylon pu coating.
Seams made with the 3M tape on Dyneema Fabric are totally waterproof and plenty strong enough for the forces on a tent, however I usually reinforce points where there are peeling forces. The tape works best on smooth fabrics, but not so well on TPU coatings from my experience. It's best to do tests with a sample of fabric before making something.
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