When putting the fan back onto the shaft, put a sheet of paper between the body and the fan and press the fan until the paper is just stuck. Then carefully pull out the paper, making sure not to leave any behind.
Use a thickness gauge to measure the tolerances of the blower wheel and the intake wheel before disassembly, then use those same thickness gauges as stops on the housing when pressing the wheels back on.
LMAO!!!! As a precision equipment repair tech, I think I may have cracked a tooth clenching my teeth as that impeller wheel was being pried from the motor shaft.
@@chrisgreen177 my dad was lead hand of the tool and die department of GE Aviation , for 47 years . I'm a carpenter. He did the same thing, every time we worked with wood.. 😂
@@Mr.Schitzengigglez Right! Wood has less chance of damaging machined surfaces and edges, and ruining tight tolerance components. Softer tools normally give way before damaging the workpiece. Nice.
I have found Using a 625-2RS (sealed bearing) instead of the 625zz unseal bearing at the brush end of the motor stops the dust from the brushes getting into the bearing and causing it to become noisy. Putting rubber sealed bearings at both ends will cause the motor to draw slightly more current as sealed bearing have more friction due to the seals.
Bearings with C3 clearance should be used on applications where elevated temperatures are expected. If you remove the shield and pack the bearing with extra grease the graphite from the brushes should not cause any problems. If you want to use bearings with seals it may be possible to omit the outermost seal if they are covered by the housing, that would reduce any extra friction.
@@chrishartley1210 c3 bearing is what I use and yes I remove the out seals and pack with hi temp grease. Wanted to put that in comment I thought people would bag me out
@@philsrandomstuff2392 I wonder if a shield will fit a bearing with a rubber seal, and vice-versa. If so it should be possible to swap a shield and seal from two different type bearings giving a seal on the inner side and a shield on the outer side. Best of both worlds perhaps.
@@chrishartley1210 I Thought exactly the same thing last time I put bearings in the motor of my heater but got sidetracked and just ended up putting the c3’s in with one seal missing. The new motors have the fan wheels glued onto the shaft now which makes them extremely hard to get off without breaking them
I can't see the motor bearings getting that hot to require metal shields. Yes it is a heater but the motor is moving air. Just my opinion maybe I'm out to lunch
I believe your fans need to be balanced and synchronized on the motor shaft. Not exactly an easy do in a garage shop. This video was most helpful. I’ll replace my dead CDH motor/fan assembly with a factory built replacement.
Its a diesel heater m8 not a fuckin precision built machine. These are assembled by children in China. Nothing has ever been or needs to be balanced in this machine. Thanks for the laugh though! A guy like you should probably just replace the whole unit and throw the old one in the bin.
i used a soldering iron to get my compressor wheel off, I heated up the shaft while holding the whole thing by the compressor wheel and it just kind of dropped out with the help of heat.
Hey buddy do you have a model number for that motor so I can buy one in case I need one or replace it I got two of these heaters and I love them they work really good So if you could give me a part number or something to where I can get one at I'd really appreciate you thank you good job
it looks like the brushes had very little wear...and would have lasted many more years. this could indicate that when a person buys a new unit..they may want to take it apart and grease both ends of the motor bearing...before using the brand new heater unit. This may allow the bearings to last much longer before they wear out .
Thats right. I just changed them today. but...."with the same force in the same amount of time" you can change them, cost 5.30 € /2pcs here. (FAG or,SKF) I had noname bearings in it( lasted for 4 months)it seems better an upgrade before first start.🍺Cheers
old brushes probably wore off kilter to the old armature since it wasn't on there correct, probably should have replaced the brushes the same time you replaced the new motor
Do You have a link or a (Part) Model Number for that fan motor? I would like to do the same thing to mine. Really great video! Thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work!👍
That's newer the motor with loose bearings it's easier to disassemble the other fan motor has a tight shaft and bearings don't come off as easy and a circlip has to be removed to get the bearing out of the housing but both types take the same size bearing but carbon brushes are different size
I use a connector nut and set screw when fitting the impellers. Can then control how deep I knock them onto motor shaft. Also, when removing brown impeller, after first having pulled off black impeller, I remove the two long screws that hold motor together, then support the lot between my thighs and knock shaft off brown impeller using a drift and small hammer.
I burn ultra low sulfur diesel from Costco, and the heater is fine with it. I also burn red dyed diesel from marine fuel suppliers, because my heater is on a boat. No problems at all. Never used 100 percent biodiesel, but the heater was fine with 20 percent bio blend. I did a full teardown after 8 years of usage, and the burn chamber and heat exchanger were amazingly clean. Just a thin coating of fine white powder. Now keep in mind, I have the original design heater from Espar which the Chinese are copying. I did have to replace the atomizer screen twice during the ten years of ownership
Yes, no issues. Can also run a minimum of 30% kerosene to well filtered waste veg oil. Just watch the fuel temperature as too cold will thicken it and prevent it being atomised. If you are making biodiesel then I suggest making your own alchohol. The first 5% from the still is methanol and ethanol also works if slower in the production of biodiesel. The ethanol is excellent for thinning the likes of veg oil to the correct viscosity for burning in these heaters which prevents oily carbon build up. They can also be cleaned out by burning nothing more than ethanol. ;)
Perfect tutorial on motor bearing repair and setting the fans blades. Get the back rotor close and the front fan close to the Hall Effect sensor and you showed this, very good!
I don't get this. Why? Why upgrade to something not needed? Replace a faulty, sure. replace faulty bearings, sure. but I can't see any real upgrade here.
Not so easy when your fans are glued to your shafts! throw away jobs now unless you spend half the price of a new assembly on new fans to replace the ones that you have to breakoff, then factor in the price of new bearings...
A couple of things I'd say: don't use mating surfaces as leverage pivots and don't use steel scrapers on aluminium mating surfaces. :)
When putting the fan back onto the shaft, put a sheet of paper between the body and the fan and press the fan until the paper is just stuck. Then carefully pull out the paper, making sure not to leave any behind.
Use a thickness gauge to measure the tolerances of the blower wheel and the intake wheel before disassembly, then use those same thickness gauges as stops on the housing when pressing the wheels back on.
Thank for your videos, showing us what not to do and sacrificing your heaters for our benefit.
Reminds me of working with my grandfather.
With much less swearing.. 😂
LMAO!!!! As a precision equipment repair tech, I think I may have cracked a tooth clenching my teeth as that impeller wheel was being pried from the motor shaft.
@@chrisgreen177 my dad was lead hand of the tool and die department of GE Aviation , for 47 years .
I'm a carpenter.
He did the same thing, every time we worked with wood..
😂
@@Mr.Schitzengigglez Right! Wood has less chance of damaging machined surfaces and edges, and ruining tight tolerance components. Softer tools normally give way before damaging the workpiece. Nice.
I'm just glad that china is cool with right to repair. I really like the fact that these have so many upgrade parts as well.
The sound once it was going made me anxious because my heater sounds similar at times 😂 Great vid, lots of very useful information. Thanks
Thanks man- really happy to see the impeller teardown as I'm having an issue with mine
I have found Using a 625-2RS (sealed bearing) instead of the 625zz unseal bearing at the brush end of the motor stops the dust from the brushes getting into the bearing and causing it to become noisy. Putting rubber sealed bearings at both ends will cause the motor to draw slightly more current as sealed bearing have more friction due to the seals.
Bearings with C3 clearance should be used on applications where elevated temperatures are expected. If you remove the shield and pack the bearing with extra grease the graphite from the brushes should not cause any problems. If you want to use bearings with seals it may be possible to omit the outermost seal if they are covered by the housing, that would reduce any extra friction.
@@chrishartley1210 c3 bearing is what I use and yes I remove the out seals and pack with hi temp grease. Wanted to put that in comment I thought people would bag me out
@@philsrandomstuff2392 I wonder if a shield will fit a bearing with a rubber seal, and vice-versa. If so it should be possible to swap a shield and seal from two different type bearings giving a seal on the inner side and a shield on the outer side. Best of both worlds perhaps.
@@chrishartley1210 I Thought exactly the same thing last time I put bearings in the motor of my heater but got sidetracked and just ended up putting the c3’s in with one seal missing. The new motors have the fan wheels glued onto the shaft now which makes them extremely hard to get off without breaking them
I can't see the motor bearings getting that hot to require metal shields. Yes it is a heater but the motor is moving air. Just my opinion maybe I'm out to lunch
@8:13 your motor looks just as it did @ 0:58. The end support is in as far as it will go ...seated.
I appreciate the show.
I believe your fans need to be balanced and synchronized on the motor shaft. Not exactly an easy do in a garage shop.
This video was most helpful.
I’ll replace my dead CDH motor/fan assembly with a factory built replacement.
Its a diesel heater m8 not a fuckin precision built machine. These are assembled by children in China. Nothing has ever been or needs to be balanced in this machine. Thanks for the laugh though! A guy like you should probably just replace the whole unit and throw the old one in the bin.
If you preheat the plastic slightly it will help to stop it being brittle and cracking or splitting
Why don't you photo assemblies before stripping them or measure the protrusions and mark alignments.
It's a beautifully made motor actually, where did you get it?
i used a soldering iron to get my compressor wheel off, I heated up the shaft while holding the whole thing by the compressor wheel and it just kind of dropped out with the help of heat.
What ended up being your issue? Thanks :-)
If you reverse the direction the magnet goes back onto the motor will the motor run in reverse also ?
Hey buddy do you have a model number for that motor so I can buy one in case I need one or replace it I got two of these heaters and I love them they work really good So if you could give me a part number or something to where I can get one at I'd really appreciate you thank you good job
Where is the link to the upgraded motor?
.
Where is the link for the replacement
.
it looks like the brushes had very little wear...and would have lasted many more years. this could indicate that when a person buys a new unit..they may want to take it apart and grease both ends of the motor bearing...before using the brand new heater unit. This may allow the bearings to last much longer before they wear out .
Thats right. I just changed them today. but...."with the same force in the same amount of time" you can change them, cost 5.30 € /2pcs here. (FAG or,SKF) I had noname bearings in it( lasted for 4 months)it seems better an upgrade before first start.🍺Cheers
Its interesting to note the extreme bevel on the brushes , providing poor electrical contact.
If one motor was longer than other?
old brushes probably wore off kilter to the old armature since it wasn't on there correct, probably should have replaced the brushes the same time you replaced the new motor
I put never cease on my gaskets to keep them from sticking
Do You have a link or a (Part) Model Number for that fan motor? I would like to do the same thing to mine. Really great video! Thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work!👍
They have them on AliExpress for 25 dollars, or 45 dollars for the entire blower and casing front end. Links are generally removed on YT.
There are German aftermarket blower motor assemblies available from European and British heater dealers. About $120 US
@@wallacegrommet9343 Thanks for the information.👍
That's newer the motor with loose bearings it's easier to disassemble the other fan motor has a tight shaft and bearings don't come off as easy and a circlip has to be removed to get the bearing out of the housing but both types take the same size bearing but carbon brushes are different size
I use a connector nut and set screw when fitting the impellers. Can then control how deep I knock them onto motor shaft.
Also, when removing brown impeller, after first having pulled off black impeller, I remove the two long screws that hold motor together, then support the lot between my thighs and knock shaft off brown impeller using a drift and small hammer.
Anyone out there ever try Bio-Diesel from used veggie oil on this type of heater? any issues? 50:50 with low sulfur diesel maybe.
I burn ultra low sulfur diesel from Costco, and the heater is fine with it. I also burn red dyed diesel from marine fuel suppliers, because my heater is on a boat. No problems at all. Never used 100 percent biodiesel, but the heater was fine with 20 percent bio blend. I did a full teardown after 8 years of usage, and the burn chamber and heat exchanger were amazingly clean. Just a thin coating of fine white powder. Now keep in mind, I have the original design heater from Espar which the Chinese are copying. I did have to replace the atomizer screen twice during the ten years of ownership
Yes, no issues. Can also run a minimum of 30% kerosene to well filtered waste veg oil. Just watch the fuel temperature as too cold will thicken it and prevent it being atomised.
If you are making biodiesel then I suggest making your own alchohol. The first 5% from the still is methanol and ethanol also works if slower in the production of biodiesel.
The ethanol is excellent for thinning the likes of veg oil to the correct viscosity for burning in these heaters which prevents oily carbon build up. They can also be cleaned out by burning nothing more than ethanol. ;)
32:33 it sounds like a 1998 Ford Mondeo.
LMAO!!!!
why not mount the whole heater outside and jsut route the ducts through the wood board?
good point, that would make it a whole lot quieter too
@@jamesbrokentech yeah it would also make it safer
Would work but not as efficient- in that configuration you will lose the feature of recirculating heated air back through the heater.
Slowly heat the fans, very slowly and then they will not crack when you pry them off.
Perfect tutorial on motor bearing repair and setting the fans blades.
Get the back rotor close and the front fan close to the Hall Effect sensor and you showed this, very good!
Newness. 😅
I appreciate the video but seriously you need to cut back on the caffeine ;)
Hi - do you have a parts number for the motor?
Kind regards
i cant find a part number for it. its just 12v 5kw 8 kw motor
I don't get this. Why? Why upgrade to something not needed? Replace a faulty, sure. replace faulty bearings, sure. but I can't see any real upgrade here.
20:42 sounded like a fart
Not so easy when your fans are glued to your shafts! throw away jobs now unless you spend half the price of a new assembly on new fans to replace the ones that you have to breakoff, then factor in the price of new bearings...
This video just makes the whole process look way harder then it is. To do what was just done In THis video takes about 20 minutes .
All of these motors are junk , the brushes are so soft and wear out fast and the commutator wears too. I wish they had brushless ones .