This was a fantastic series and I learned a lot. Thank you! It’s great that you are passing on the craft before it’s lost in time. The handle is beautiful and I will use some of your techniques for my upcoming builds.
This is an EXCELLENT series. I watched Every minute from end to end and learned a LOT. Thank you brother, greetings from Australia. p.s; You are a Bloody Good craftsman !
So enjoyed watching the most recent series of videos. Thank you for putting in considerable time and effort making them. You have tremendous generosity of spirit and are a natural born teacher ! As you show in every video, hard earned practical knowledge and the ability to share that is a very powerful gift. Reassuring to know we already share about 80% of techniques, extremely grateful for the 20 % of tips I hadn't worked out (even after many years) . Also just to mention I always check the cutting edge face during fitting the roughed out head by resting blade and handle end when fitted on level surface, so the handle can be adjusted to ensure the centre of the cutting edge will strike the work first. Tremendous job Tanner keep posting when you have time and A BIG THANK YOU (UK Hedgelayer)
Thank you so much! The trick to that is actually making sure that when you cut out the shape on your bandsaw you go all the way up to the line you draw! That helps a lot with preventing the start of things getting wavy! If you do wind up with some high spots You should use the sander in its longest position and it acts a little bit more like a jointer. Keep checking with feel until gone!
I make up a paste from boiled linseed oil and bees wax and apply to the handle after a coat of linseed oil only (after dried). I'm going to try beeswax/burnishing on my next handle. Great series of videos!
I would do a couple more linseed oil coatings, before I'd put the wax on. I also put the handle under the sun in nnons, now that it's hot and leave the coating on, for 3 days, before applying the second coating of oil. The wax, I just put it under the sun before the application, to open up the pores of the wood. I'm searching for the best oil to use, however I always find different opinions. boiled linseed oil, double boiled linseed oil, Flax oil, Ballistol is great too and so on. Theoritially speaking, the more natural the oil and the thinner it is, the better. Problem is, that 100% natural ols, are thick, the don't dry properly and have poor penetration too. So, I guess, Bolied or double boiled linseed oil, is the best way to go. Only detail, that matters more than that, is the fact that different companies, make different products under the same name. So, we have to check out, the ingridients, to avoid as much chemical additions, as possible.
Look into how to make wax wood, basically submerging wood into molten wax until it stops bubbling. Wax impregnates the wood. Should be easier and deeper penetrating than rubbing it in.
Great build! Looks like you used a semi transparent stain. Wiping stains have more pigmentation. Gonna try wax. Seems like wax would help grip when your hands are sweaty. Keep the videos coming. Have a good week!
I know this was two years ago, but I am getting ready to re-hang a vintage Craftsman Feller. I don't know "yet" why you would not burn the handle first. I have sanded, will lightly burn next, then put boiled lenseed oil on it. It seems strange to burn the stain????? Just started watching Thx for sharing
If possible, you might consider getting a sample chunk of your handle species to experiment with your ideas on. My late father was a master woodworker and loved restoring vintage 1903 Springfield ( along with M1 Garands and carbines) stocks. After getting a stock to its bare final finish ( scraped, sanded, steel wooled) he would gently go over the stock with a propane torch to open the pores. He would then give it a nice liberal wipe with Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol. Once it dried, it was onto his stain. Then it was hand rubbed pure tung oil….many coats over many weeks, with light steel wool scuffing in between. Then he would knock back his final gloss to his liking ( usually a semi satin sheen) with a super light 0000 steel wool scuff. He’d let that cure and then he would spend all summer leaving the stock in some peak afternoon sun ( maybe a few hours per day) and hand rubbing the wood with a very high quality lemon oil polish. We would take turns rubbing the LO in during the week. 40 plus years later those stocks are still AMAZING and only require a semi annual touch up with a dash of LO. This attention to detail makes no sense for a vintage tool haft…..but My point is that there are many ways to get a job done, and you have to experiment and learn what works best for you. Your thoughts on burning/staining are very intriguing and I am going to do some of my own experiments with an old haft once spring comes. You might consider checking out the Real Milk Paint Company and their line of fantastic, pure , half, and dark tung oils, plus their natural waxes ( food and child safe) for great protective finishes. Good luck with your projects and Happy New Year!
This was a fantastic series and I learned a lot. Thank you! It’s great that you are passing on the craft before it’s lost in time. The handle is beautiful and I will use some of your techniques for my upcoming builds.
Beautiful handle, very nice job!
This is an EXCELLENT series. I watched Every minute from end to end and learned a LOT. Thank you brother, greetings from Australia.
p.s; You are a Bloody Good craftsman !
Just bumped into your channel! Glad I did! This is "right up my alley"! SUBBED! Thank you for sharing! 👌👍
Greetings from Salem, Oregon 🌲🌲🌲🌲🪓
So enjoyed watching the most recent series of videos. Thank you for putting in considerable time and effort making them. You have tremendous generosity of spirit and are a natural born teacher ! As you show in every video, hard earned practical knowledge and the ability to share that is a very powerful gift. Reassuring to know we already share about 80% of techniques, extremely grateful for the 20 % of tips I hadn't worked out (even after many years) . Also just to mention I always check the cutting edge face during fitting the roughed out head by resting blade and handle end when fitted on level surface, so the handle can be adjusted to ensure the centre of the cutting edge will strike the work first. Tremendous job Tanner keep posting when you have time and A BIG THANK YOU (UK Hedgelayer)
Thank you so much for saying so! Hedgelaying is soooo cooool!!!
You are excellent at your craft. This series was a pleasure to watch. I look forward to more!
Thank you so very much!
Excellent presentation.
Subbed, this is great. Awesome series. Id like to know how you knock down the high spots while sanding, i always have trouble with that bit
Thank you so much! The trick to that is actually making sure that when you cut out the shape on your bandsaw you go all the way up to the line you draw! That helps a lot with preventing the start of things getting wavy! If you do wind up with some high spots You should use the sander in its longest position and it acts a little bit more like a jointer. Keep checking with feel until gone!
I make up a paste from boiled linseed oil and bees wax and apply to the handle after a coat of linseed oil only (after dried). I'm going to try beeswax/burnishing on my next handle. Great series of videos!
I would do a couple more linseed oil coatings, before I'd put the wax on. I also put the handle under the sun in nnons, now that it's hot and leave the coating on, for 3 days, before applying the second coating of oil. The wax, I just put it under the sun before the application, to open up the pores of the wood. I'm searching for the best oil to use, however I always find different opinions. boiled linseed oil, double boiled linseed oil, Flax oil, Ballistol is great too and so on.
Theoritially speaking, the more natural the oil and the thinner it is, the better.
Problem is, that 100% natural ols, are thick, the don't dry properly and have poor penetration too. So, I guess, Bolied or double boiled linseed oil, is the best way to go. Only detail, that matters more than that, is the fact that different companies, make different products under the same name. So, we have to check out, the ingridients, to avoid as much chemical additions, as possible.
I have always been proud of my axe hafting and handle finishing skills. Then I watched this series. Now I am ashamed. Lol
Just asking but why not use something like a heat gun or even a hair dryer?
Look into how to make wax wood, basically submerging wood into molten wax until it stops bubbling. Wax impregnates the wood. Should be easier and deeper penetrating than rubbing it in.
do you have a video on the sheath
What kind of stain did you use?
Great build! Looks like you used a semi transparent stain. Wiping stains have more pigmentation. Gonna try wax. Seems like wax would help grip when your hands are sweaty. Keep the videos coming. Have a good week!
Thank you so much! And thank you for the tip! I hope you have a good week too!
@@axehafter1009 thank you for the knowledge you share. Keep the content coming!
@@axehafter1009man start putting out some videos bro your so good
@@Casterman2I need one of your axes how do I get one your website has nothing
I know this was two years ago, but I am getting ready to re-hang a vintage Craftsman Feller. I don't know "yet" why you would not burn the handle first. I have sanded, will lightly burn next, then put boiled lenseed oil on it. It seems strange to burn the stain????? Just started watching Thx for sharing
If possible, you might consider getting a sample chunk of your handle species to experiment with your ideas on.
My late father was a master woodworker and loved restoring vintage 1903 Springfield ( along with M1 Garands and carbines) stocks.
After getting a stock to its bare final finish ( scraped, sanded, steel wooled) he would gently go over the stock with a propane torch to open the pores. He would then give it a nice liberal wipe with Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol.
Once it dried, it was onto his stain. Then it was hand rubbed pure tung oil….many coats over many weeks, with light steel wool scuffing in between.
Then he would knock back his final gloss to his liking ( usually a semi satin sheen) with a super light 0000 steel wool scuff. He’d let that cure and then he would spend all summer leaving the stock in some peak afternoon sun ( maybe a few hours per day) and hand rubbing the wood with a very high quality lemon oil polish.
We would take turns rubbing the LO in during the week. 40 plus years later those stocks are still AMAZING and only require a semi annual touch up with a dash of LO.
This attention to detail makes no sense for a vintage tool haft…..but
My point is that there are many ways to get a job done, and you have to experiment and learn what works best for you.
Your thoughts on burning/staining are very intriguing and I am going to do some of my own experiments with an old haft once spring comes.
You might consider checking out the Real Milk Paint Company and their line of fantastic, pure , half, and dark tung oils, plus their natural waxes ( food and child safe) for great protective finishes.
Good luck with your projects and Happy New Year!
I wonder if you could use tung oil instead of linseed oil.
very similar, tung smells a lot better
That handle almost looks like ash when it’s done