I'm a HVACR technician, and I want to tell you something. You deserve all my respect from the moment you decided to flow nitrogen in the lines before brazing, ONLY the professional technicians understand the importance of the nitrogen when you are brazing, that's why the importance of Hvac academy or training programs.
Companys are too greedy to even want a tech to do it the right way. They want the job done fast doesnt matter what corners are cut aslong as they are cooling and the customer is happy. @jacobbell1934
Thanks I appreciate that - I used to do HVAC professionally with a company many years ago and lots of guys i worked with never flowed nitrogen while brazing
Always a fan of people taking the time to know the equipment. A few tips if you'd like them: I didn't see you purge your manifold. Don't worry if you did it off camera, but it's pretty important if you're pumping a system down because if you don't you can end up with some air in the system. This can make your head pressure run abnormally high, and maybe cause a no-cool call later. This is one of those things that adds up over time though, the first time you probably won't notice, but eventually it can become an issue. Your compressor protection prevents the contactor coil from energizing, it won't do anything to stop you if you push it in manually. All it does is break the electrical circuit to the coil. The compressors used in residential split systems like these aren't meant to pump down that far. I recommend stopping when you get between 5 and 10 psi, you're only losing a few ounces at that point, and the nitrogen will take care of anything left in the lines that could produce phosgene while brazing. Didn't see if you deburred the liquid line after cutting. Not as critical as some make it out to be, but worth doing if you can. Not a tip exactly, but good job with the nitro and the wet rag. Might have gone a hair higher on the oxygen setting, that flame looked a bit heavy on the acetylene. But the joint looked OK. I recommend shutting the core tools before shutting the pump off. Also, they tend to trap a little bit of air in the mechanism when fully open, so try leaving them at a 30-45 degree angle, if 0 is open and 90 is closed. This one's a bit controversial, but in some situations it's OK to skip changing the drier. If the system wasn't suffering from a leak, and you pulled a proper vacuum, then it's generally OK to skip the drier. But if you have any reason at all to think you may have some moisture inside, then change it.
I like how you set it strait with the facts about being an apartment maintenance pro. I am as well, and even though I know a lot about many things, it doesn't mean I'm an expert on any of them.
I would have loved to see the gauge numbers before the replacement. I peeked over the tech shoulder when they were out and I saw some numbers that may have been indicative of a TXV problem. Head 358, SC 12.2, Vac 96, SH 27 He's convinced that I just need to clean the Evap Coil. Yes it needed it. White slime. They want $1200 to pull and clean. So, I have climbed into the underside of the air handler and got it pretty clean. Shop vac, coil cleaner, and combs. Also installed a UV lamp in the a-frame now. No improvement on the indoor D-T, 10-11 degrees. Good airflow. I guess I may need to call someone else out to hook up again and see what the numbers are now after the cleaning. Nice work!
I don’t think those readings indicate a bad txv - hard to tell though without testing the airflow. Low airflow will actually give you a higher than normal delta t
thats not a TXV problem. if the coil was dirty then the blower was the same way. 1/8 inch dust on that blower wheel will significantly change airflow. if its a high efficiency furnace under the coil then its got a secondary heat exchanger that is most likely plugged the same as the coil.
Overall great video. Unit was slightly undercharged. Vapor saturation was at 34 with a slight fluctuation it might start to freeze. Rule of thumb for txv when subcooling is not known is 10.
Great stuff brother... Just my opinion in the apartment industry they shouldn't have txv ..the maintenance guys/gals have to many other work orders to be messing with txv
Increasing or decreasing line set diameter will always reduce ur velocity of pressure to compressor, in this case it looks crimped and restricted. Id go out on a limb and say it was never the TXV, but damn it's unfortunate to say I've seen hack jobs work like this for a bit, if not forever before and actual tech shows up
Bro that suction line looks messed up at at the condenser! Hopefully the lineset is very short and not long.... Love your videos man! Upset you got in trouble for filming indoors. Hopefully you can do more of those vlog blog things I really liked them
Hahah ya I had nothing to do with that suction line 🤣 but that’s what happens when you don’t have the right parts for the job - I’m still salty about not being able to vlog anymore but I will be pumping out these rooftop unit repairs all season 👍
You can connect your micron gauge directly to the port of your CRT on your liquid line and get a more accurate reading. Good job, that air handler looks like a pain to work on
Is that Baltimore? No matter what the super techs say, that was a good repair bro. You followed the correct steps alot better than most “techs” out here 🤘🤘🇺🇸🇺🇸
The system was opened but the filter drier inside was never exposed, so, a lot of people will disagree with this and a lot will do the exact same thing
@@ApartmentMaintenanceProI’ve heard from a couple senior techs that if you’re changing the TXV, you might as well change the filter drier. Makes sense because the system is open and flushed
@@jerrrdy if there’s a filter drier that has not been exposed to moisture - you pull a sub 500 micron vacuum in an already dry environment (Colorado) - I don’t see the benefit of all the extra work. It’s one thing to preach something - but most that preach this don’t practice this
Not to bad, However in the future slide the nut back from the flare, seat the flare on the fitting, slide the nut down and tighten by hand as tight as you can get it, then finish it off. This will make sure that the flare is 100% seated properly.
Hope they pay you well.. just wanted to say that liquid line drier was never exposed to the atmosphere so theres no need to change it in those goodmans.. great job
Txvs need from 8 to 10 degrees of subcooling you called 4.6 degrees of subcooling good . Nice txv install though looking at the asset tag you wil find the required subcooling for the unit txv
Siz kapiler boruyu bulb in önüne taktınız doğru olan bulb in arkasına takılması gerek yani önce bulb 5 veya 10 cm sonra kapiler takılır txv klavuzuna bakabilirsin doğru bulb ve dış denge bağlantısı nasil olur
Personally, I wouldn’t worry about saving any company money. I save money for customers all the time when it’s their home. Usually do free leak searches and sometimes give them free Freon if they aren’t rich people(I charge rich people everything). But a company can suck it and there’s no reason for you to save them money ever
They are not universal. Refrigerant needs to match and there’s some wiggle room in tonnage but always check with the manufacturer specs not joe shmo the ac guru down the street
Manufactures started putting filter drier inside the condenser as a way to deter warranty work on bad compressors due to installers not putting filter driers.
Cut off txv bulb and braze eighth inch copper tube too quarter inch male shrader port. Put shrader back in port after brazing and pressure power head with nitrogen to open txv. Save all these steps of removing valve. This is only emergency fix.
I don’t understand. Why call a company when they have you? I have an property I take care of but only to change out equipment the maintenance crew does the repairs.
Wow, if you've learned all this from UA-cam (and not gone to school) dang. You seem to have also made a huge investment in tools(hundreds maybe thousands). And if I didn't know any better, I would say that you're in the industry and have been for a long time. I just began learning from UA-cam and I wouldn't feel confident doing what you just did. 😅😅😅
I learned most of what I know today from 20 years of experience, before UA-cam (I've been watching youtube for about 4 years or so to keep up to date and keep learning new things)
Absolutely No Disrespect. Improperly sized line sets will definitely cause issues like the TXV is failing. At the beginning of the video when the pump down is explained, the low size line set is absolutely undersized.
Why would you cut out the drier? When it's new, do you open it up and remove the new refrigerant? Cause what you did is just like putting a new system in work wise... When you recovered the refrigerant and shut the valves off, you secured it, and thus no "AIR" got into the lines and what did you pulled a proper vacuum on just like they did when it was brand new. It would be silly to remove it for no reason. Long as you pulled a vacuum correctly, and your micron gauge is (NOT) where it's supposed to be, you are reading the vacuum line, not the thing you are actually supposed to be measuring which is the lines themselves. Use only (1) vacuum line on one valve and mount the micron to the other, this gives you the furthest point and precise correct measurement.
A two thousand two-hundred-dollar job look at the money being save I was a maintenance Tech for forty years and save a company's that I have work for a lot for money by doing the job in house I can imagine people that are able to do work as this are behind the scenes of what professionals do not see question do you get pay what you are worth to them.
Wrong tools at every turn (12” adjustable for that little liquid valve cap and pump pliers marring up the brass nut on the TXV???), burnt the shit out of the sheet metal touching cabinet insulation, never turned air handler power off, “trapped refrigerant in the compressor (try outdoor/condenser coil),” “the compressor protection” will stop the compressor when you’re literally HOLDING IN THE CONTACTOR, and no filter drier change? You get an A+ for hack job. There is a reason why the other company quoted $2200. The charge needed pulled to change the drier and the condenser is on a roof. That is not a high price for a TXV replacement. It’s AVERAGE. 🤣🤣🤣
I thought your work was just fine. You gave advice to visit other legitimate Utubers who I visit all the time. At the end of the video you explained your position and reasoning for your actions. As a retired service plumber I totally understand that each client you work for has a budget and level of condition they want to maintain their buildings at. From what I gather another company diagnosed the problem.I’m assuming they got paid for their work. They didn’t get the replacement job though. It would be nice to get every job you quote. That doesn’t happen in a competitive market. Your video depicted what it is like to do your type of job. Thanks
I'm a HVACR technician, and I want to tell you something. You deserve all my respect from the moment you decided to flow nitrogen in the lines before brazing, ONLY the professional technicians understand the importance of the nitrogen when you are brazing, that's why the importance of Hvac academy or training programs.
Thanks bro appreciate it 👍
Well unfortunately companies are too greedy to invest in training
Companys are too greedy to even want a tech to do it the right way. They want the job done fast doesnt matter what corners are cut aslong as they are cooling and the customer is happy. @jacobbell1934
Sargent Vance from the nitrogen police here. Can we talk outside? 🤣
Great video Dave!
Bro I almost sh*t myself reading this comment lol thanks Lex for stopping by 🤣
To me you're a pro and better than some HVAC tech that I've seen. You did nitrogen while brazing that mean a lot to me. Good job
Thanks I appreciate that - I used to do HVAC professionally with a company many years ago and lots of guys i worked with never flowed nitrogen while brazing
@ApartmentMaintenancePro no wonder. That was as professional of a job as I've ever seen.
I'm 1000000% agree only professional technicians understand the importance of the nitrogen in the brazing process.
Always a fan of people taking the time to know the equipment. A few tips if you'd like them:
I didn't see you purge your manifold. Don't worry if you did it off camera, but it's pretty important if you're pumping a system down because if you don't you can end up with some air in the system. This can make your head pressure run abnormally high, and maybe cause a no-cool call later. This is one of those things that adds up over time though, the first time you probably won't notice, but eventually it can become an issue.
Your compressor protection prevents the contactor coil from energizing, it won't do anything to stop you if you push it in manually. All it does is break the electrical circuit to the coil.
The compressors used in residential split systems like these aren't meant to pump down that far. I recommend stopping when you get between 5 and 10 psi, you're only losing a few ounces at that point, and the nitrogen will take care of anything left in the lines that could produce phosgene while brazing.
Didn't see if you deburred the liquid line after cutting. Not as critical as some make it out to be, but worth doing if you can.
Not a tip exactly, but good job with the nitro and the wet rag.
Might have gone a hair higher on the oxygen setting, that flame looked a bit heavy on the acetylene. But the joint looked OK.
I recommend shutting the core tools before shutting the pump off. Also, they tend to trap a little bit of air in the mechanism when fully open, so try leaving them at a 30-45 degree angle, if 0 is open and 90 is closed.
This one's a bit controversial, but in some situations it's OK to skip changing the drier. If the system wasn't suffering from a leak, and you pulled a proper vacuum, then it's generally OK to skip the drier. But if you have any reason at all to think you may have some moisture inside, then change it.
Thanks Minecraft for the detailed reply - I didn't go back in look but purging the manifold is second nature to me I usually try and get it filmed 👍
He’s a super tech 🕺
@@jimmyp5487 Nah. A super tech would look down on people for not knowing. I'm just trying to be haelpful.
@@TheMinecraftACMan lol it’s all love brother 🤘🤘 stay safe out there
Does it matter on a scroll compressor if you use this method to move the Freon into the condenser as long as you go to the 5-10psi range? Thanks
I like how you set it strait with the facts about being an apartment maintenance pro. I am as well, and even though I know a lot about many things, it doesn't mean I'm an expert on any of them.
Great job my friend. Thanks for all your hard work.👍🏽
Thanks Sharonn 👍
I would have loved to see the gauge numbers before the replacement. I peeked over the tech shoulder when they were out and I saw some numbers that may have been indicative of a TXV problem. Head 358, SC 12.2, Vac 96, SH 27 He's convinced that I just need to clean the Evap Coil. Yes it needed it. White slime. They want $1200 to pull and clean. So, I have climbed into the underside of the air handler and got it pretty clean. Shop vac, coil cleaner, and combs. Also installed a UV lamp in the a-frame now. No improvement on the indoor D-T, 10-11 degrees. Good airflow. I guess I may need to call someone else out to hook up again and see what the numbers are now after the cleaning.
Nice work!
I don’t think those readings indicate a bad txv - hard to tell though without testing the airflow. Low airflow will actually give you a higher than normal delta t
thats not a TXV problem. if the coil was dirty then the blower was the same way. 1/8 inch dust on that blower wheel will significantly change airflow. if its a high efficiency furnace under the coil then its got a secondary heat exchanger that is most likely plugged the same as the coil.
Congratulations for doing your best effort & thanks for sharing your learning experience curve.
Overall great video. Unit was slightly undercharged. Vapor saturation was at 34 with a slight fluctuation it might start to freeze. Rule of thumb for txv when subcooling is not known is 10.
Great stuff brother... Just my opinion in the apartment industry they shouldn't have txv ..the maintenance guys/gals have to many other work orders to be messing with txv
Ya, this is something that usually gets vendored out in my area
Not to mention the amount of misdiagnosis
WOW looks like wrong line set for condenser
I was curious what kind of issue will that cause if any?
EXACTLY.....Probably the issue all along. Major Miss🤐
Increasing or decreasing line set diameter will always reduce ur velocity of pressure to compressor, in this case it looks crimped and restricted. Id go out on a limb and say it was never the TXV, but damn it's unfortunate to say I've seen hack jobs work like this for a bit, if not forever before and actual tech shows up
Nice video. If you have a scroll compressor can you recover refrigerant into the condenser with this method?
Bro that suction line looks messed up at at the condenser! Hopefully the lineset is very short and not long....
Love your videos man! Upset you got in trouble for filming indoors. Hopefully you can do more of those vlog blog things I really liked them
Hahah ya I had nothing to do with that suction line 🤣 but that’s what happens when you don’t have the right parts for the job - I’m still salty about not being able to vlog anymore but I will be pumping out these rooftop unit repairs all season 👍
You can connect your micron gauge directly to the port of your CRT on your liquid line and get a more accurate reading. Good job, that air handler looks like a pain to work on
That is just as inaccurate as putting it on the pump fella. If you want an accurate reading it needs to be located at the evaporator.
Is that Baltimore? No matter what the super techs say, that was a good repair bro. You followed the correct steps alot better than most “techs” out here 🤘🤘🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks Jimmy! Denver CO
Bad Santa decided to earn an honest living by doing HVAC maintenance.
You lucky man you got plenty of room to change that TXV ❤😢😅
Excellent 👍just curious, what symptom was present to condemn the txv?
Great video. Is the nitrogen actually flowing through or just sitting in the line?
Great video, sure did learn some things!
Thanks Junior!
Great video but is it necessary to replace the filter drier as well when opening up the system ?
The system was opened but the filter drier inside was never exposed, so, a lot of people will disagree with this and a lot will do the exact same thing
@@ApartmentMaintenanceProI’ve heard from a couple senior techs that if you’re changing the TXV, you might as well change the filter drier. Makes sense because the system is open and flushed
@@jerrrdy if there’s a filter drier that has not been exposed to moisture - you pull a sub 500 micron vacuum in an already dry environment (Colorado) - I don’t see the benefit of all the extra work. It’s one thing to preach something - but most that preach this don’t practice this
Not to bad, However in the future slide the nut back from the flare, seat the flare on the fitting, slide the nut down and tighten by hand as tight as you can get it, then finish it off. This will make sure that the flare is 100% seated properly.
Thanks for the tip!
Had so many TXV go bad last year 🤦🏾♂️ great video
Thank you showing your skills.. where i can buy hvac parts without Tech License
Just about any website that sells them. Will need a epa card for refrigerant purchases of more than a few pounds though
Hell sir. I have a problem also with my txv which is 7tr capacity. It is ok to replaced with 7.5tr txv?
Very good job. Thanks for sharing
Great video . Gangsta how you tell it like it is . I’m not a technician . Lol
Thanks Charlie 😀
Hope they pay you well.. just wanted to say that liquid line drier was never exposed to the atmosphere so theres no need to change it in those goodmans.. great job
Thanks kodie 👍 I get compensated pretty well
Great work mate! Very professional in my opinion.... and I'm a professional 😅
Txvs need from 8 to 10 degrees of subcooling you called 4.6 degrees of subcooling good . Nice txv install though looking at the asset tag you wil find the required subcooling for the unit txv
TXv ısı algılayıcıyı yalnış yere taktın kapiler borunun önünde olması gerek arkasında değil 7:35 dk bakabilirsin bu sekilde txv düzgün çalışmaz.
Not sure what you mean about the capillary pipe. The sensor bulb is fine where it was installed
Siz kapiler boruyu bulb in önüne taktınız doğru olan bulb in arkasına takılması gerek yani önce bulb 5 veya 10 cm sonra kapiler takılır txv klavuzuna bakabilirsin doğru bulb ve dış denge bağlantısı nasil olur
How to choose right txv?
You can Bypass the low pressure switch to prevent the unit from turn off
Hi dear sir:txv buble shouldnt be insttaled on top of return line.3oclock position is right🙌
Personally, I wouldn’t worry about saving any company money. I save money for customers all the time when it’s their home. Usually do free leak searches and sometimes give them free Freon if they aren’t rich people(I charge rich people everything). But a company can suck it and there’s no reason for you to save them money ever
Dude, you are a working class hero for doing this. I applaud, and thank you for putting people over ‘company’ profits 👊
They put leak test mode on the gauges for a reason. It's the best mode on the gauges.
Can you come to my house? My txv valve is not operating. Is Florida too far? lol.
Yep 5/8 line on a 7/8” crazy 😮❤
Good Job!
Are most TXV valves universal based on tonnage, line size and freon type? Where's the best place to buy one online?
Freon is a brand it’s called refrigerant
Join the union and get a real 5 year education while working and you’ll have your answer instead of asking this clown
They are not universal. Refrigerant needs to match and there’s some wiggle room in tonnage but always check with the manufacturer specs not joe shmo the ac guru down the street
Good job 👍
Great video
Your awesome man!
Manufactures started putting filter drier inside the condenser as a way to deter warranty work on bad compressors due to installers not putting filter driers.
Ya it’s not the worst idea
Cut off txv bulb and braze eighth inch copper tube too quarter inch male shrader port. Put shrader back in port after brazing and pressure power head with nitrogen to open txv. Save all these steps of removing valve. This is only emergency fix.
This really works?
@5:30 is where you charged them $3,000 for that "problem" you found.
I don’t understand. Why call a company when they have you? I have an property I take care of but only to change out equipment the maintenance crew does the repairs.
I've been doing a few compressor/txv/condenser change outs a week so far. Hopefully many more this summer when it starts hitting 100 degrees.
I think you did fine. .👍
Wow, if you've learned all this from UA-cam (and not gone to school) dang. You seem to have also made a huge investment in tools(hundreds maybe thousands). And if I didn't know any better, I would say that you're in the industry and have been for a long time. I just began learning from UA-cam and I wouldn't feel confident doing what you just did. 😅😅😅
I learned most of what I know today from 20 years of experience, before UA-cam (I've been watching youtube for about 4 years or so to keep up to date and keep learning new things)
Absolutely No Disrespect. Improperly sized line sets will definitely cause issues like the TXV is failing. At the beginning of the video when the pump down is explained, the low size line set is absolutely undersized.
According to the literature of the install manual it is not.
Nice! I just had a new ac installed half the price with a small 3 man company doing it. The big companies wanted way too much $$
Bad Santa?!))
You replace the parts after the Pros Diagnosed it for you !!
Why would you cut out the drier?
When it's new, do you open it up and remove the new refrigerant?
Cause what you did is just like putting a new system in work wise... When you recovered the refrigerant and shut the valves off, you secured it, and thus no "AIR" got into the lines and what did you pulled a proper vacuum on just like they did when it was brand new.
It would be silly to remove it for no reason. Long as you pulled a vacuum correctly, and your micron gauge is (NOT) where it's supposed to be, you are reading the vacuum line, not the thing you are actually supposed to be measuring which is the lines themselves. Use only (1) vacuum line on one valve and mount the micron to the other, this gives you the furthest point and precise correct measurement.
Great job. 10/10. Except you didnt flow nitrogen.........
lol that poor compressor, line set is way to small on the vapor side. She is starving
How do you know that? You don't even know how long this lineset is? Did you read the install manual to determine this?
Get a captain hook tip
I just heard about that from the comment section looks very handy
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro game changer
Or get better at brazing!!!!!
@@Hamasisfilthytrash whatever it takes
@@5822huron the true words of a hack!!! Or get a proper education and get paid properly to do the job properly with the proper skills
I was quoted $3k for this same issue
i bet you wouldnt try that with a package unit trane lol
If you go to a piston you can save even more money an it won't break 🎉
I’ll tell you what not bad
A two thousand two-hundred-dollar job look at the money being save I was a maintenance Tech for forty years and save a company's that I have work for a lot for money by doing the job in house I can imagine people that are able to do work as this are behind the scenes of what professionals do not see question do you get pay what you are worth to them.
stupid size of copper on lowside
If heat pump shut both before killing power 😮❤😂😅😱🥵
Wrong tools at every turn (12” adjustable for that little liquid valve cap and pump pliers marring up the brass nut on the TXV???), burnt the shit out of the sheet metal touching cabinet insulation, never turned air handler power off, “trapped refrigerant in the compressor (try outdoor/condenser coil),” “the compressor protection” will stop the compressor when you’re literally HOLDING IN THE CONTACTOR, and no filter drier change? You get an A+ for hack job. There is a reason why the other company quoted $2200. The charge needed pulled to change the drier and the condenser is on a roof. That is not a high price for a TXV replacement. It’s AVERAGE. 🤣🤣🤣
I'm sure my repair will last a decade or more like they always do but thanks for the input
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro that logic is ridiculous. That’s like saying cross threading a bolt is fine as long as it doesn’t fall out 🤣🤣🤣
@@jman0870Where are your videos showing how to properly do this?
@@sawdust85222 oh my bad. You need a video to show you how to use tools at an apprentice level? I’ll get right on that.
I thought your work was just fine. You gave advice to visit other legitimate Utubers who I visit all the time. At the end of the video you explained your position and reasoning for your actions. As a retired service plumber I totally understand that each client you work for has a budget and level of condition they want to maintain their buildings at. From what I gather another company diagnosed the problem.I’m assuming they got paid for their work. They didn’t get the replacement job though. It would be nice to get every job you quote. That doesn’t happen in a competitive market. Your video depicted what it is like to do your type of job. Thanks